stryped wrote:
On Tuesday, July 9, 2013 3:53:47 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
stryped wrote:

On Tuesday, July 9, 2013 12:59:54 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
stryped wrote:


The HF unit is a pretty good starting point. The point the balancer
How do you ensure the bubble is where it needs to be? Eyeball it?

Nope. You start at the tapered seat for the point and measure to the
outside of the cone with dividers (just like drawing a circle with a
compass) then if that is correct you can use simple squares set up on
the 4 points with a piece of thread between them as a center to check
the bubble. (about like the reticle in a scope)


I did not think the point if it is what I was thinking, is a replaceable part on that HF unit?????

ANYTHING is replaceable. The one I looked at was a simple ground point
pressed into a hole. The one on my ancient balancer is held in with a
set screw.


rides on can be junk, but it is easy to replace with something good.



The off center bubble is due to assembly. You want the center of the

bubble EXACTLY over the pivot, Plus it has to be exactly centered on the

wheel cone.



Getting those correct can sometime be a challenge for places with ???

quality control. They are not hard to correct though.





As for why dynamic is preferred--- TIME. If done correctly the end

result is a balanced tire/rim assembly.





--

Steve W.



--
Steve W.

On Mon, 08 Jul 2013 20:03:42 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

strupid wrote:

GEESH! Don't you EVER research anything before you ask for advice? All

Troll alert. He has been posting this crap for years, never on topic.
Plonk him and forget him, as the rest of us did years ago.

--
We cannot but pity the boy who has never fired a gun; he is
no more humane, while his education has been sadly neglected.
--Henry David Thoreau

On Tue, 09 Jul 2013 19:51:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

Which reminds me....if anyone finds a Tektronics 212 scope or a cheap!
digital at a swapmeet/hamfest for around $50 or less keep me in mind.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/151076187797

Each term, "Mint" and "Rare", is usually accompanied by 3x pricing.
His reserve is probably $300.

--
We cannot but pity the boy who has never fired a gun; he is
no more humane, while his education has been sadly neglected.
--Henry David Thoreau

On Tue, 09 Jul 2013 21:03:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Tue, 09 Jul 2013 19:51:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

Which reminds me....if anyone finds a Tektronics 212 scope or a cheap!
digital at a swapmeet/hamfest for around $50 or less keep me in mind.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/151076187797

ayup. Up to $34 and the reserve hasnt been met yet. I figure it will
be around $75 -100 given the use of the term "rare!" by the seller


It has 'free shipping', though.

Lets see where it goes. On my watch list.

Gunner

--
""Almost all liberal behavioral tropes track the impotent rage of small
children. Thus, for example, there is also the popular tactic of
repeating some stupid, meaningless phrase a billion times" Arms for
hostages, arms for hostages, arms for hostages, it's just about sex, just
about sex, just about sex, dumb,dumb, money in politics,money in
politics, Enron, Enron, Enron. Nothing repeated with mind-numbing
frequency in all major news outlets will not be believed by some members
of the populace. It is the permanence of evil; you can't stop it." (Ann
Coulter)

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Tue, 09 Jul 2013 19:51:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

Which reminds me....if anyone finds a Tektronics 212 scope or a cheap!
digital at a swapmeet/hamfest for around $50 or less keep me in mind.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/151076187797

Each term, "Mint" and "Rare", is usually accompanied by 3x pricing.
His reserve is probably $300.


Then he will relist it, with a lower reserve. Or eat it.

On Tuesday, July 9, 2013 8:38:23 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:
stryped wrote:

On Tuesday, July 9, 2013 3:53:47 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:

stryped wrote:



On Tuesday, July 9, 2013 12:59:54 PM UTC-5, Steve W. wrote:

stryped wrote:

Ok, trying to visualize. I dont have this unit yet so I dont have the benefit of it in front of me.

I looked on the net last night. I believe your talking about the part the bullseye level sits on top of. Underneath the level is round and there is an indintation that the shaft with a ground end "pointer" fits into. Are you saying this indentation should be measured from it to the outside edge of the circle? (When I say the "circle" I am talking about the entire round piece the bulls eye level sits on top of.)

This makes sense. It should seem this should be exactly centered, provided the bullseye is exactly centered above it.

Now I know what a scope recticle is from my deer hunting days but I am a little lost as to the "squares" and the "string".

I have a digital caliper I could try to measure that indentation to make sure it is centered in the circle, but if it is not what then? I assume alot of you guys have the capability to re machine a piece with an indentation exactly in the middle. Unfortunately I dont have a mill or lathe nor have ever used one.

It is amazing I have talked to many knowledgeable people. Some swaer by the accuracy of the bubble balancer. I have had one person who has given me advice over the years via email and is very helpful. He says he would not bubble balance anythign but lawn mower tires. He mentione that wheels since the bubble balancers were used have changed and now have more offset which makes a bubble balancer less acurate, I dont quite understand what he is talkign abotu but he knows alot more than I do.

I appreciate everyone's help on here. I have learned alot.




The HF unit is a pretty good starting point. The point the balancer

How do you ensure the bubble is where it needs to be? Eyeball it?



Nope. You start at the tapered seat for the point and measure to the

outside of the cone with dividers (just like drawing a circle with a

compass) then if that is correct you can use simple squares set up on

the 4 points with a piece of thread between them as a center to check

the bubble. (about like the reticle in a scope)





I did not think the point if it is what I was thinking, is a replaceable part on that HF unit?????



ANYTHING is replaceable. The one I looked at was a simple ground point

pressed into a hole. The one on my ancient balancer is held in with a

set screw.





rides on can be junk, but it is easy to replace with something good.







The off center bubble is due to assembly. You want the center of the



bubble EXACTLY over the pivot, Plus it has to be exactly centered on the



wheel cone.







Getting those correct can sometime be a challenge for places with ???



quality control. They are not hard to correct though.











As for why dynamic is preferred--- TIME. If done correctly the end



result is a balanced tire/rim assembly.











--



Steve W.







--

Steve W.

On Wed, 10 Jul 2013 04:12:21 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

On Tue, 09 Jul 2013 19:51:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

Which reminds me....if anyone finds a Tektronics 212 scope or a cheap!
digital at a swapmeet/hamfest for around $50 or less keep me in mind.


http://www.ebay.com/itm/151076187797

Each term, "Mint" and "Rare", is usually accompanied by 3x pricing.
His reserve is probably $300.


Then he will relist it, with a lower reserve. Or eat it.

Verily. That may take a long while.

--
We cannot but pity the boy who has never fired a gun; he is
no more humane, while his education has been sadly neglected.
--Henry David Thoreau

"stryped" wrote in message
...
He mentione that wheels since the bubble balancers were
used have changed and now have more offset which
makes a bubble balancer less acurate, I dont quite
understand what he is talkign abotu but he knows
alot more than I do.

This is offset:
http://konigusa.net/wp-content/uploa...et-diagram.gif
A larger offset, to clear the brake calipers, makes the wheel a
longer, more stable pendulum that tilts less from imbalance.

I got around that on my sensitive home-made wheel balancer by cutting
the female pivot cone into the end of a screw through the balancer
hub's center so I can adjust the balance point to the 3-dimensional
center of gravity of the wheel, then raise the pivot slightly. It
works well and I can detect dynamic unbalance by spinning the wheel
after statically balancing it level.

The last time I mentioned this I couldn't convince anyone with only
words, so here is a pictu
http://www.budandsteveauto.com/_imag...-balancing.gif
If the wheel is suspended at its center of gravity and spun, the heavy
red spots will pull themselves toward the plane of rotation, making
the tire wobble.

But you'd have to make it yourself. The heavy rotating wheel dulls the
balance point and cone very quickly and I have to remachine it for
each use.
Unfortunately I dont have a mill or lathe nor have ever used one.

jsw

I'm guessin' this bitch-fest has nothing to do with spending money on
packaging for your amazing products, though.. or keeping a supply of free
ones.

Then whine when free ones aren't available, to people that're supposed to
give a ****/sympathize with you.
If you did as you said you would, your govt reps probably put you on a watch
list.. probably right where you belong.

To my knowledge, Stryped never treated anyone with the hostility that you do
on a regular basis.

FOAD

--
WB
..........


"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...

I have a hunter DSP 9000 tire balancer for sale near me. But it is
220 3 phase which i dont have. I know there are phase converters
available but they are expensive.

I read somewhere that 3 phase motors can be run on single phase 220,
but the motor start would not work. (You can spin the tire once by
hand to get it going then it would work).

If you all ever try to **** do this work, then all I ever make is
****; and from **** will just be more **** in your derangement.

Lloyd

"Wild_Bill" fired this volley in
:

I'm guessin' this bitch-fest has nothing to do with spending money on
packaging for your amazing products, though.. or keeping a supply of
free ones.

Then whine when free ones aren't available, to people that're supposed
to give a ****/sympathize with you.
If you did as you said you would, your govt reps probably put you on a
watch list.. probably right where you belong.

When did I ever whine about not getting a free anything? The only thing
I complained about was the PO not living up to their promises, and giving
bad service. I didn't "keep free ones", I used them, and paid postage on
every one. I don't expect free anything, but when it's offered as part
of a for-fee service, I expect it to be delivered.


I'm hostile toward Stryped because he _deliberately_refuses_ to do a good
job. I think his projects would be admirable (usually) otherwise. But
I'll have no truck with folks who set out - intentionally - to do the
worst quality work they can get away with without burning down the house.

You might say, "He has the right to do any quality of work he wants."
Yes, he does.

What he does NOT have the right to do is ask us (me) over and over how to
do things poorly. When we tell him how to do them right, all he ever
does is whine about not wanting to work that hard, or not wanting to
spend money.

Fine... then don't ask. Go look it up. This group represents our
"workshop". If someone physically walked into your workshop and demanded
to know your advice on how to deliberately do a crappy job, you'd likely
throw him out the door. (well, maybe you wouldn't, but any craftsman
would).

So... if he saunters into this 'workshop' and asks the same stuff, I
can't throw him out... but I can berate him for his attitude.

If you're on his side, all I can assume is that you share his opinions
about doing **** work. I noted before that you don't believe the PO
should uphold their promises of services, so that probably extends to
your other philosophies.


Lloyd


LLoyd

On Wednesday, July 10, 2013 6:21:14 PM UTC-5, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message

...

He mentione that wheels since the bubble balancers were

used have changed and now have more offset which

makes a bubble balancer less acurate, I dont quite

understand what he is talkign abotu but he knows
So will a bubble balancer really not work for offset wheels?

I would really like to see a picture of your balancer. Trying to picture it.
alot more than I do.



This is offset:

http://konigusa.net/wp-content/uploa...et-diagram.gif

A larger offset, to clear the brake calipers, makes the wheel a

longer, more stable pendulum that tilts less from imbalance.



I got around that on my sensitive home-made wheel balancer by cutting

the female pivot cone into the end of a screw through the balancer

hub's center so I can adjust the balance point to the 3-dimensional

center of gravity of the wheel, then raise the pivot slightly. It

works well and I can detect dynamic unbalance by spinning the wheel

after statically balancing it level.



The last time I mentioned this I couldn't convince anyone with only

words, so here is a pictu

http://www.budandsteveauto.com/_imag...-balancing.gif

If the wheel is suspended at its center of gravity and spun, the heavy

red spots will pull themselves toward the plane of rotation, making

the tire wobble.



But you'd have to make it yourself. The heavy rotating wheel dulls the

balance point and cone very quickly and I have to remachine it for

each use.

Unfortunately I dont have a mill or lathe nor have ever used one.



jsw

"stryped" wrote in message
...
On Wednesday, July 10, 2013 6:21:14 PM UTC-5, Jim Wilkins wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message


I would really like to see a picture of your balancer. Trying to
picture it.
alot more than I do.

I didn't photograph it when I built it because the workings are hidden
by the tire, and understanding the physics of adjusting it is more
important than the design.

It looks like a lawnmower blade balancer with a hockey-puck-sized
one-step hub on top. The hub (and tire) actually balances on a central
screw and can be adjusted up or down the screw to locate the tire's
center of gravity slightly below the balance point.

Google isn't giving me a good explanation of how bubble balancers
work. I have dial-up and searches take way too long unless I enter the
right phrase. This one has already wasted over an hour. Usually I use
Google only to give authoritative references for things I already
know.

jsw

Gunner Asch on Tue, 09 Jul 2013 23:41:20 -0700
typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:

Just looked...his pricing is fair. His shipping...sucks

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Fluke-8010A-...em4610ba 5f00

$25.66 shipping? What the ****? Does he have them delivered via
limo?

He has a $10 handling charge included with each item.

On TOP of the $25.66?

Sounds like a seller in Fullerton that went tits up pulling that ****.
I bought a lot of electronics from him because I could drive to his
shop..but he tried the "handling charge" on me several times..and I
told him in Vietnamese to go to hell and he dropped the charges.

He lasted about a year on ebay and then closed..he couldnt sell
anything after folks got wise to him.

He was Vietnamese btw. They tend to be either really nice people or
money grubbers.

"Never ask, never know." But, as was known centuries ago "the
love of money is the source of much evil."


--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

On Tuesday, July 9, 2013 4:38:52 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:



I've been slowly accumulating the parts for a Fitch or Hanrahan rotary

converter. I have the schematics but no practical experience with

their quirks and limitations.

jsw

I have some experience with rotary converters, so let me know if you need help finding parts or have questions. I am going to a new email address, but you can reach me at dlcaster57 at Yahoo dot com for a while.

Dan

wrote in message
...
On Tuesday, July 9, 2013 4:38:52 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:



I've been slowly accumulating the parts for a Fitch or Hanrahan
rotary
converter. I have the schematics but no practical experience with
their quirks and limitations.
jsw

I have some experience with rotary converters, so let me know if you
need help finding parts or have questions. I am going to a new
email address, but you can reach me at dlcaster57 at Yahoo dot com
for a while.
Dan

My lathe has a threaded spindle and the manual for my Delta surface
grinder says not to expect better than a 25 microinch finish, so 3
phase motors probably wouldn't improve them. I can sharpen up to 3/4"
drill bits on a Drill Doctor and don't really need to fix the pedestal
grinder. It was just a what-if before the AC caps disappear into other
projects, like fixing golf cart battery chargers.
Thanks anyway.
jsw

On Thursday, July 11, 2013 5:27:31 PM UTC-4, Jim Wilkins wrote:



.. It was just a what-if before the AC caps disappear into other

projects, like fixing golf cart battery chargers.

Thanks anyway.

jsw

If you run out of Capacitors check Herbach and Rademan. They are near Philly and have pretty good prices on oil filled caps. For example

Motor Start Capacitor, 25 MFD 370 VAC
Code: TM91CAP1780
Price: $3.75

Dan

On Monday, July 8, 2013 10:42:48 PM UTC-4, Existential Angst wrote:
"stryped" wrote in message

...

I have a hunter DSP 9000 tire balancer for sale near me. But it is 220 3

phase which i dont have. I know there are phase converters available but

they are expensive.



I read somewhere that 3 phase motors can be run on single phase 220, but

the motor start would not work. (You can spin the tire once by hand to get

it going then it would work).



Does this sound correct? What about the electronic read out on the

machine? Would it work on single phase 220 without a converter?



I appreciate it!



In principle, it's correck, altho poss. not practical.



The Self Righteous Spermenberg is partially correct, with a "static

converter" which is just start caps placed between L1-L3 or L2-L3 (L1-L2

being 220 single phase).

Flip them out when the unit starts. Flipping in some "run" capacitors might

help power, effic, but the motor will, as you say, now run off 220 single

phase,

And is the current on this 220 volt single phase the same as current would be if running on 110 volt single phase ??