My Baker-Linde forklift got a carby rebuild this evening and it now
idles

However..the electronic throttle still isnt working.

On this particular Linde forkllift (B30-PL)...hydrostatic
drive...there is an electonic box that used to be bolted under the
dash. I loaned the forklift to a guy, who kicked it off the
firewall..and let rain fill it up. DOA

This forklift doesnt have a gas pedal..it has a lever on the dash.
You set it for the RPM you want..and then the "box" will pull a big
solenoid (12vt) which pulls on the throttle linkage and no matter what
load you put on or take off...it keeps it at that rpm. Cruise control
so to speak. If you are running on the street and want to go
faster...move the lever and it speeds up. Take your foot off the pedal
(reverse, stop and forward)..three of them in the middle of the
drivers position on the floorboard.

I dont know how the box senses the RPM. I cant find a maint manual
for this lift truck anywhere. Guy offered to sell me one for $300.
That aint happening anything this year....

All I need is a wiring diagram of that part of the control system. A
diagram of the inside of the box would be damned nice too..maybe I can
repair the guts.

Ive posted for this "box" in all the forklift forums..with only one
response and the box he wanted to sell me for $450 was definately the
wrong one.

This is what my box looks like

https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...98932166676898

https://picasaweb.google.com/1040422...98933889507986

Other correspondence...

http://www.forkliftaction.com/forum/...asp?trid=11621

Several years ago, I located one of these "boxes" in a forklift
wrecking yard in IRRC..Georgia and they wanted $125 for it. Ive since
lost all the data, all the communications records etc etc with the
source. That stroke still plays hell with my memory now and then.
I thought Id kept copies of our emails..but...cant find em anywhere.
Damit!!


Now does anyone have any suggestions? All that Im left with...is
putting a gas pedal on the floor board..or a potentiometer to control
that big solenoid. The gas pedal will be as handy as a third thumb
as the 3 pedals are controlled with both feet..and using a
potentiometer will be easier to control..but will be an utter bitch to
use as it will be simply a hand controlled throttle that will have to
be moved as often as a gas pedal.

Ive got to move that cargo container this coming weekend, one way or
another, and Ive got to move a ****load of machinery out of the way
with this forklift, plus pull out a 22 ft motorhome with flat tires
(some of them) and then put in that 5500 lbs cargo container with a
3000 lb forklift, with little help. Ive got pipe for rollers lined
up...sigh..but having to jocky the throttle controls for this lift
truck is simply going to be an additional pain in the ass.

Any suggestions would be greatly! appreciated!!

What value pot would I use to move a 12volt device from 0-12volts at
about .5 amp? Brain lock.

Where do I find a cheap self mounting throttle pedal and cable? Ive
browsed all the places I could think of..and they have $200 and up
stock car stuff..and I cant afford that.

Im running out of time and I have to go to LA in the morning


Gunner

--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

Your machine is using a complicated solution to a simple problem.
Every tractor I own has a throttle lever going through a governor to
do the same thing.

You're out of time, get a pot.

Good luck moving your stuff.

Karl

Karl Townsend fired this volley in
:

Your machine is using a complicated solution to a simple problem.

It's using cheaper electronics to do a more expensive mechanical
solution.

Why not just open up the 'box' and fix what's in there?

I used to repair OMC marine throttle controls. Nothin' gets as messed up
as salt water electronics. They can be fixed. Cleaning is the first
step.

Lloyd

On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 05:53:39 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Karl Townsend fired this volley in
:

Your machine is using a complicated solution to a simple problem.

It's using cheaper electronics to do a more expensive mechanical
solution.

Why not just open up the 'box' and fix what's in there?

I used to repair OMC marine throttle controls. Nothin' gets as messed up
as salt water electronics. They can be fixed. Cleaning is the first
step.

Lloyd

1. its sealed
2. I dont know what or where all the wires go

Thats why I need a diagram of the wiring or even the guts of the box

Ill cut the ******* open with a hot knife if I had some circuit
diagrams.

And yeah..its German

3 pedals?

reverse, stop and forward. they couldnt come up with a single pedal
you push the top to go forward..the bottom to in reverse..and a brake?

Lots of hydrostatic forklifts do just that..with a gas pedal

Not the Germans...oh no...they were in one of their ****ed off modes
when they sent this sumbitch to America


--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

On 6/10/2013 8:14 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 05:53:39 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Karl Townsend fired this volley in
:

Your machine is using a complicated solution to a simple problem.

It's using cheaper electronics to do a more expensive mechanical
solution.

Why not just open up the 'box' and fix what's in there?

I used to repair OMC marine throttle controls. Nothin' gets as messed up
as salt water electronics. They can be fixed. Cleaning is the first
step.

Lloyd

1. its sealed
2. I dont know what or where all the wires go

Thats why I need a diagram of the wiring or even the guts of the box

Ill cut the ******* open with a hot knife if I had some circuit
diagrams.

And yeah..its German

3 pedals?

reverse, stop and forward. they couldnt come up with a single pedal
you push the top to go forward..the bottom to in reverse..and a brake?

Lots of hydrostatic forklifts do just that..with a gas pedal

Not the Germans...oh no...they were in one of their ****ed off modes
when they sent this sumbitch to America


--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."




Number and photograph what you see, open the thing---oh wait a sec, you
said it was sealed! If that's the case, chances are it's the
connections to the box that need repair.

Gunner Asch wrote:

My Baker-Linde forklift got a carby rebuild this evening and it now
idles

However..the electronic throttle still isnt working.

On this particular Linde forkllift (B30-PL)...hydrostatic
drive...there is an electonic box that used to be bolted under the
dash. I loaned the forklift to a guy, who kicked it off the
firewall..and let rain fill it up. DOA

Well, the obvious low-cost solution is to get a Bowden wire
throttle from an auto parts or lawn mower parts store. Running
the typical gas engine at small throttle settings, it will
pretty much self-regulate anyway, and you probably won't
need to mess with the throttle all that much.

I had an aftermarket cruise control I put on an '89 Corolla.
I got it for about $25 on eBay. It had a magnet you strapped
to a CV joint and a pickup coil you mounted nearby.
This one was vacuum-operated, it had a control valve and a
diaphragm that pulled on the throttle. You might be able
to find one of these on eBay and adapt, even a suitable
electromagnetic governor for a gen set or similar machine.
It really isn't rocket science, so such a module should not
be terribly expensive.

Jon

On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 11:43:34 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 6/10/2013 8:14 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 05:53:39 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Karl Townsend fired this volley in
:

Your machine is using a complicated solution to a simple problem.

It's using cheaper electronics to do a more expensive mechanical
solution.

Why not just open up the 'box' and fix what's in there?

I used to repair OMC marine throttle controls. Nothin' gets as messed up
as salt water electronics. They can be fixed. Cleaning is the first
step.

Lloyd

1. its sealed
2. I dont know what or where all the wires go

Thats why I need a diagram of the wiring or even the guts of the box

Ill cut the ******* open with a hot knife if I had some circuit
diagrams.

And yeah..its German

3 pedals?

reverse, stop and forward. they couldnt come up with a single pedal
you push the top to go forward..the bottom to in reverse..and a brake?

Lots of hydrostatic forklifts do just that..with a gas pedal

Not the Germans...oh no...they were in one of their ****ed off modes
when they sent this sumbitch to America


Number and photograph what you see, open the thing---oh wait a sec, you
said it was sealed! If that's the case, chances are it's the
connections to the box that need repair.

Inside that box is a printed circuit board. There are some very small
pots visible between the terminals. So there obviously is a PC board
inside of that box..and with 4-5 tiny pots adjustable from outside the
box.....(and no lable, markers..nada on any of them)

The box is glued shut. Its not hermetically sealed, its not waterproof
sealed..its simply glued shut


Gunner

--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

So there obviously is a PC board
inside of that box..and with 4-5 tiny pots adjustable from outside the
box.....(and no lable, markers..nada on any of them)

The box is glued shut. Its not hermetically sealed, its not waterproof
sealed..its simply glued shut


There's an ancient Greek trick for that situation, dating back to about
the 8th century, B.C..

It's called "writing".

Label the ****ers and open it up.

You don't -have- to have a schematic to fix a lot of stuff. If you know
what the component is, you can test it, replace it, or substitute
something else.

You can be almost certain it's not a _computer_... just a simple tach-to-
DC-servo mechanism. Mostly analog (if not all).

Lloyd

On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 11:41:10 -0500, Jon Elson
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:

My Baker-Linde forklift got a carby rebuild this evening and it now
idles

However..the electronic throttle still isnt working.

On this particular Linde forkllift (B30-PL)...hydrostatic
drive...there is an electonic box that used to be bolted under the
dash. I loaned the forklift to a guy, who kicked it off the
firewall..and let rain fill it up. DOA

Well, the obvious low-cost solution is to get a Bowden wire
throttle from an auto parts or lawn mower parts store. Running
the typical gas engine at small throttle settings, it will
pretty much self-regulate anyway, and you probably won't
need to mess with the throttle all that much.

I had an aftermarket cruise control I put on an '89 Corolla.
I got it for about $25 on eBay. It had a magnet you strapped
to a CV joint and a pickup coil you mounted nearby.
This one was vacuum-operated, it had a control valve and a
diaphragm that pulled on the throttle. You might be able
to find one of these on eBay and adapt, even a suitable
electromagnetic governor for a gen set or similar machine.
It really isn't rocket science, so such a module should not
be terribly expensive.

Jon

Ive looked the engine over..and I honestly cant find a place to put
the sensor. And its a very very good idea!

There is a VW industrial Jetta engine in there..and a very big!
hydraulic pump with 4 belts running it directly from the engine. The
fan is on the other end of course..and it too has no usable shaft area
to strap anything to. Trust me..Ive looked and pondered and
considered over and over again..and I cant see anyway to add an
outboard cruise control. No CV joints anywhere, no drive shaft..nadda.

There has to be some sensor of some sort on that engine for the
existing box to work..but damned if I can figure it out without a
diagram or manual.

Gunner, on his way to LA

--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

Gunner Asch fired this volley in
:

I've looked the engine over..and I honestly cant find a place to put
the sensor. And its a very very good idea!

There's a reliable tach sensor on EVERY points-n-condensor motor.

The points. That's how all old-style tachs worked.

Another simple solution is an inductive pickup coil around any single
spark plug wire.

LLoyd

Gunner Asch wrote:


Ive looked the engine over..and I honestly cant find a place to put
the sensor. And its a very very good idea!

Electric ignition? You can tap a reed relay across the points,
like the old electromechanical tachometers from the '60s. The
coil of the reed relay goes across the points, possibly with
a series resistor to protect it from the voltage spikes. The contacts
are then connected to the speed controller.

There is a VW industrial Jetta engine in there..and a very big!
hydraulic pump with 4 belts running it directly from the engine. The
fan is on the other end of course..and it too has no usable shaft area
to strap anything to. Trust me..Ive looked and pondered and
considered over and over again..and I cant see anyway to add an
outboard cruise control. No CV joints anywhere, no drive shaft..nadda.

There has to be some sensor of some sort on that engine for the
existing box to work..but damned if I can figure it out without a
diagram or manual.
Belts? Glue a magnet to the inner side of the pulley, the pickup
can be positioned where it needs to go. Or even, drill a hole in
the valve covers, and rig a Hall sensor to detect the movement
of the rocker arms.

Jon

On 6/10/2013 12:56 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 11:43:34 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 6/10/2013 8:14 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 10 Jun 2013 05:53:39 -0500, "Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"
lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote:

Karl Townsend fired this volley in
:

Your machine is using a complicated solution to a simple problem.

It's using cheaper electronics to do a more expensive mechanical
solution.

Why not just open up the 'box' and fix what's in there?

I used to repair OMC marine throttle controls. Nothin' gets as messed up
as salt water electronics. They can be fixed. Cleaning is the first
step.

Lloyd

1. its sealed
2. I dont know what or where all the wires go

Thats why I need a diagram of the wiring or even the guts of the box

Ill cut the ******* open with a hot knife if I had some circuit
diagrams.

And yeah..its German

3 pedals?

reverse, stop and forward. they couldnt come up with a single pedal
you push the top to go forward..the bottom to in reverse..and a brake?

Lots of hydrostatic forklifts do just that..with a gas pedal

Not the Germans...oh no...they were in one of their ****ed off modes
when they sent this sumbitch to America


Number and photograph what you see, open the thing---oh wait a sec, you
said it was sealed! If that's the case, chances are it's the
connections to the box that need repair.

Inside that box is a printed circuit board. There are some very small
pots visible between the terminals. So there obviously is a PC board
inside of that box..and with 4-5 tiny pots adjustable from outside the
box.....(and no lable, markers..nada on any of them)

The box is glued shut. Its not hermetically sealed, its not waterproof
sealed..its simply glued shut


Gunner

--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."




Well, it SHOULD have been potted! You're ****ed dude.

On 6/10/2013 8:15 PM, Tom Gardner wrote:
On 6/10/2013 12:56 PM, Gunner Asch wrote:
....

The box is glued shut. Its not hermetically sealed, its not waterproof
sealed..its simply glued shut

....


Well, it SHOULD have been potted! You're ****ed dude.

Have old JLG 40H manlift -- the boom/drive controls are a proportional
black-box circuit board that _is_ potted entirely and they still
occasionally fail--nothing to do but OEM replacements
realistically...but, they lasted 30 yr or thereabouts before started to
do so...

--

On 6/10/2013 2:29 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
My Baker-Linde forklift got a carby rebuild this evening and it now
idles


Got an idea yet?

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 23:44:37 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 6/10/2013 2:29 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
My Baker-Linde forklift got a carby rebuild this evening and it now
idles


Got an idea yet?

I picked up a 5 watt 0-75 ohm pot this week and will be installing it
here as soon as I wake up. Got in at 3:30am and crashed hard in my
beddyby

Ill let yall know if it works.


--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 12:59:55 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 23:44:37 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 6/10/2013 2:29 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
My Baker-Linde forklift got a carby rebuild this evening and it now
idles


Got an idea yet?

I picked up a 5 watt 0-75 ohm pot this week and will be installing it
here as soon as I wake up. Got in at 3:30am and crashed hard in my
beddyby

Ill let yall know if it works.

Oh, and after you get it running, call the 'acquaintance' that
borrowed the forklift and wrecked the control box, and get him on
finding a replacement - or at least a component level schematic so you
can fix that one, wangle up a breadboarded version, or find something
else that can be repurposed for the use.

Remind him about that part where you own a Backhoe and have 50,000
acres of desert in your back yard. See if that helps his attitude.

And just a thought: All the new generator sets out there don't use
mechanical governors anymore, they do it electronically from the
Tachometer sense line off the ignition, and send commands straight to
the throttle body and EFI to hold 1800 or 3600 spot on. And that's
what you need for the forklift...

Check with Murphy Switchgage and the other people who make small and
medium gen-set controls and safeties, see if there's something that
can be adapted.

-- Bruce --

On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 12:59:55 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 23:44:37 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 6/10/2013 2:29 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
My Baker-Linde forklift got a carby rebuild this evening and it now
idles


Got an idea yet?

I picked up a 5 watt 0-75 ohm pot this week and will be installing it
here as soon as I wake up. Got in at 3:30am and crashed hard in my
beddyby

Ill let yall know if it works.

Worked fine..but the pot was too small and it ultimately burned out in
about 15 minutes. Found some 65 ohm wirewound .5 amp pots still in
the package in one of my electronics cabinets after a desperate and
rapid search...works well enough to get the job done. Mounted it on a
piece of 4x5 x .125" aluminum and taped it to a untility box. Not
even close in values..but if I tweak it carefuly..I can get proper
rpms. Looks like I need a much bigger ..more amps pot..probably a
couple amps to do this right. But..I was running out of time...so did
in desperation. got the back yard mostly cleaned and moved..so I can
now get the motor home out. The "family" has been slowly cleaning out
the conex..so Ill use the fork lift (after another propane run in the
morning) and pull out the heavy stuff and get ready to move the conex
Monday.

I hated spending $9 on a pot and watching the magic smoke come out of
it after 45 minutes. But its running with the .5 amp wire wound and I
have a spare.

.. Steering cylinder is leaking..any suggestions to stop it? Doesnt
appear to be a rebuildable but it may just be the dust/mang on it.
Cant see any snap rings on the rod end. Hope I get the job done
before running out of oil. After an hour or two..the leak slowed down
a lot. Probably ran most of the water in the system through it..it was
pretty bright yellow.

Gunner

--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

Gunner - what voltage is that forklift using? If that's a 12 volt system,
a 5 watt pot should work; if 24 volts, poping in 15 minutes would seem
about right.

Hul

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 12:59:55 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 23:44:37 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 6/10/2013 2:29 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
My Baker-Linde forklift got a carby rebuild this evening and it now
idles


Got an idea yet?

I picked up a 5 watt 0-75 ohm pot this week and will be installing it
here as soon as I wake up. Got in at 3:30am and crashed hard in my
beddyby

Ill let yall know if it works.

Worked fine..but the pot was too small and it ultimately burned out in
about 15 minutes. Found some 65 ohm wirewound .5 amp pots still in
the package in one of my electronics cabinets after a desperate and
rapid search...works well enough to get the job done. Mounted it on a
piece of 4x5 x .125" aluminum and taped it to a untility box. Not
even close in values..but if I tweak it carefuly..I can get proper
rpms. Looks like I need a much bigger ..more amps pot..probably a
couple amps to do this right. But..I was running out of time...so did
in desperation. got the back yard mostly cleaned and moved..so I can
now get the motor home out. The "family" has been slowly cleaning out
the conex..so Ill use the fork lift (after another propane run in the
morning) and pull out the heavy stuff and get ready to move the conex
Monday.

I hated spending $9 on a pot and watching the magic smoke come out of
it after 45 minutes. But its running with the .5 amp wire wound and I
have a spare.

. Steering cylinder is leaking..any suggestions to stop it? Doesnt
appear to be a rebuildable but it may just be the dust/mang on it.
Cant see any snap rings on the rod end. Hope I get the job done
before running out of oil. After an hour or two..the leak slowed down
a lot. Probably ran most of the water in the system through it..it was
pretty bright yellow.

Gunner

--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid? to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

wrote in message ...
Gunner - what voltage is that forklift using? If that's a 12 volt
system,
a 5 watt pot should work; if 24 volts, poping in 15 minutes would
seem
about right.

Hul


http://www.amazon.com/Rheostat-Slide...words=rheostat

On Sun, 16 Jun 2013 20:41:15 +0000 (UTC), wrote:

Gunner - what voltage is that forklift using? If that's a 12 volt system,
a 5 watt pot should work; if 24 volts, poping in 15 minutes would seem
about right.

12volt system. The solenoid is about 2x2x 3" ...so it sucks up the
power pretty hard.

Those little wire wound heavy duty pots are rated at .5 amps..and it
gets so hot ya cant hold it in your hand...so I heat sinked it with a
big piece of aluminum.


Hul

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 12:59:55 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 23:44:37 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 6/10/2013 2:29 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
My Baker-Linde forklift got a carby rebuild this evening and it now
idles


Got an idea yet?

I picked up a 5 watt 0-75 ohm pot this week and will be installing it
here as soon as I wake up. Got in at 3:30am and crashed hard in my
beddyby

Ill let yall know if it works.

Worked fine..but the pot was too small and it ultimately burned out in
about 15 minutes. Found some 65 ohm wirewound .5 amp pots still in
the package in one of my electronics cabinets after a desperate and
rapid search...works well enough to get the job done. Mounted it on a
piece of 4x5 x .125" aluminum and taped it to a untility box. Not
even close in values..but if I tweak it carefuly..I can get proper
rpms. Looks like I need a much bigger ..more amps pot..probably a
couple amps to do this right. But..I was running out of time...so did
in desperation. got the back yard mostly cleaned and moved..so I can
now get the motor home out. The "family" has been slowly cleaning out
the conex..so Ill use the fork lift (after another propane run in the
morning) and pull out the heavy stuff and get ready to move the conex
Monday.

I hated spending $9 on a pot and watching the magic smoke come out of
it after 45 minutes. But its running with the .5 amp wire wound and I
have a spare.

. Steering cylinder is leaking..any suggestions to stop it? Doesnt
appear to be a rebuildable but it may just be the dust/mang on it.
Cant see any snap rings on the rod end. Hope I get the job done
before running out of oil. After an hour or two..the leak slowed down
a lot. Probably ran most of the water in the system through it..it was
pretty bright yellow.

Gunner

--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid? to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."


--
""Almost all liberal behavioral tropes track the impotent rage of small
children. Thus, for example, there is also the popular tactic of
repeating some stupid, meaningless phrase a billion times" Arms for
hostages, arms for hostages, arms for hostages, it's just about sex, just
about sex, just about sex, dumb,dumb, money in politics,money in
politics, Enron, Enron, Enron. Nothing repeated with mind-numbing
frequency in all major news outlets will not be believed by some members
of the populace. It is the permanence of evil; you can't stop it." (Ann
Coulter)

On 6/15/2013 7:08 PM, Bruce L. Bergman (munged human readable) wrote:
On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 12:59:55 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 23:44:37 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 6/10/2013 2:29 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
My Baker-Linde forklift got a carby rebuild this evening and it now
idles


Got an idea yet?

I picked up a 5 watt 0-75 ohm pot this week and will be installing it
here as soon as I wake up. Got in at 3:30am and crashed hard in my
beddyby

Ill let yall know if it works.

Oh, and after you get it running, call the 'acquaintance' that
borrowed the forklift and wrecked the control box, and get him on
finding a replacement - or at least a component level schematic so you
can fix that one, wangle up a breadboarded version, or find something
else that can be repurposed for the use.

Remind him about that part where you own a Backhoe and have 50,000
acres of desert in your back yard. See if that helps his attitude.

And just a thought: All the new generator sets out there don't use
mechanical governors anymore, they do it electronically from the
Tachometer sense line off the ignition, and send commands straight to
the throttle body and EFI to hold 1800 or 3600 spot on. And that's
what you need for the forklift...

Check with Murphy Switchgage and the other people who make small and
medium gen-set controls and safeties, see if there's something that
can be adapted.

-- Bruce --



Exactly! When I borrow a tool I return it BETTER than when I got it! I
clean or sharpen or paint or polish it. That way people are ALWAYS
happy to lend me stuff. And, I expect the same when I loan out tools.
I'm seldom disappointing because I state the rules up front.

On 6/16/2013 2:56 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Sat, 15 Jun 2013 12:59:55 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Tue, 11 Jun 2013 23:44:37 -0400, Tom Gardner Mars@Tacks wrote:

On 6/10/2013 2:29 AM, Gunner Asch wrote:
My Baker-Linde forklift got a carby rebuild this evening and it now
idles


Got an idea yet?

I picked up a 5 watt 0-75 ohm pot this week and will be installing it
here as soon as I wake up. Got in at 3:30am and crashed hard in my
beddyby

Ill let yall know if it works.

Worked fine..but the pot was too small and it ultimately burned out in
about 15 minutes. Found some 65 ohm wirewound .5 amp pots still in
the package in one of my electronics cabinets after a desperate and
rapid search...works well enough to get the job done. Mounted it on a
piece of 4x5 x .125" aluminum and taped it to a untility box. Not
even close in values..but if I tweak it carefuly..I can get proper
rpms. Looks like I need a much bigger ..more amps pot..probably a
couple amps to do this right. But..I was running out of time...so did
in desperation. got the back yard mostly cleaned and moved..so I can
now get the motor home out. The "family" has been slowly cleaning out
the conex..so Ill use the fork lift (after another propane run in the
morning) and pull out the heavy stuff and get ready to move the conex
Monday.

I hated spending $9 on a pot and watching the magic smoke come out of
it after 45 minutes. But its running with the .5 amp wire wound and I
have a spare.

. Steering cylinder is leaking..any suggestions to stop it? Doesnt
appear to be a rebuildable but it may just be the dust/mang on it.
Cant see any snap rings on the rod end. Hope I get the job done
before running out of oil. After an hour or two..the leak slowed down
a lot. Probably ran most of the water in the system through it..it was
pretty bright yellow.

Gunner

--

Aww-RIGHT! It just has to get used to the idea that it has to go back
to work. Remember the movie "Roadie"? "Everything works if you let it!"