I bought a 14 foot x 14 foot room that a local guy had built to avoid
a building permit. So it's built just like a house would be, 2x10
floor joists, 2x6 walls, fully insulated floor, walls, and attic.
Since it is on pier blocks, is less than 200 square feet in area, and
is only plugged into power, not hardwired, the structure needs no
permitting because the county considers it a non-permanent structure.
The thing is finished inside except for the floor. The floor consists
of just tongue and groove 3/4 plywood and needs that needs to be
covered. I will be using the room as an office for my shop so I don't
need a fancy tiled floor or anything. As it happens I have many 4x8
sheets of 1/8 masonite that was used as temporary protection for the
wood floors in my house. So it has been walked on but is still in good
shape. Since I'm cheap and want to use the masonite up I would like to
use it as flooring. I would coat it with a water based urethane
product. Like the stuff used on the floors in my house. Good idea? Bad
idea? Who cares?
Thanks,
Eric

wrote:
I bought a 14 foot x 14 foot room that a local guy had built to avoid
a building permit. So it's built just like a house would be, 2x10
floor joists, 2x6 walls, fully insulated floor, walls, and attic.
Since it is on pier blocks, is less than 200 square feet in area, and
is only plugged into power, not hardwired, the structure needs no
permitting because the county considers it a non-permanent structure.
The thing is finished inside except for the floor. The floor consists
of just tongue and groove 3/4 plywood and needs that needs to be
covered. I will be using the room as an office for my shop so I don't
need a fancy tiled floor or anything. As it happens I have many 4x8
sheets of 1/8 masonite that was used as temporary protection for the
wood floors in my house. So it has been walked on but is still in good
shape. Since I'm cheap and want to use the masonite up I would like to
use it as flooring. I would coat it with a water based urethane
product. Like the stuff used on the floors in my house. Good idea? Bad
idea? Who cares?
Thanks,
Eric

Should work OK. I'd probably glue it down just like tile. Then coat it
with poly.

--
Steve W.

On 5/10/2013 4:36 PM, Steve W. wrote:
wrote:
I bought a 14 foot x 14 foot room that a local guy had built to avoid
a building permit. So it's built just like a house would be, 2x10
floor joists, 2x6 walls, fully insulated floor, walls, and attic.
Since it is on pier blocks, is less than 200 square feet in area, and
is only plugged into power, not hardwired, the structure needs no
permitting because the county considers it a non-permanent structure.
The thing is finished inside except for the floor. The floor consists
of just tongue and groove 3/4 plywood and needs that needs to be
covered. I will be using the room as an office for my shop so I don't
need a fancy tiled floor or anything. As it happens I have many 4x8
sheets of 1/8 masonite that was used as temporary protection for the
wood floors in my house. So it has been walked on but is still in good
shape. Since I'm cheap and want to use the masonite up I would like to
use it as flooring. I would coat it with a water based urethane
product. Like the stuff used on the floors in my house. Good idea? Bad
idea? Who cares?
Thanks,
Eric

Should work OK. I'd probably glue it down just like tile. Then coat it
with poly.

If you already had it in a house, then you know it's a bad idea. The
stuff is very unstable with changing humidity. There are not enough
nails in the Puget Sound area to nail it down and not have bulges
somewhere. Get some regular 1/2 inch floor underlayment and use that.
doesn't cost much per sheet and you won't need vary many.

The other problem with masonite is the slick surface.

On the other hand, I have it for the top surface of work benches both at
home and at the plant. Glued to solid wood surface with Gorilla Glue. No
chance for it to buckle up.

Paul

On Fri, 10 May 2013 19:57:44 -0700, Paul Drahn
wrote:

On 5/10/2013 4:36 PM, Steve W. wrote:
wrote:
I bought a 14 foot x 14 foot room that a local guy had built to avoid
a building permit. So it's built just like a house would be, 2x10
floor joists, 2x6 walls, fully insulated floor, walls, and attic.
Since it is on pier blocks, is less than 200 square feet in area, and
is only plugged into power, not hardwired, the structure needs no
permitting because the county considers it a non-permanent structure.
The thing is finished inside except for the floor. The floor consists
of just tongue and groove 3/4 plywood and needs that needs to be
covered. I will be using the room as an office for my shop so I don't
need a fancy tiled floor or anything. As it happens I have many 4x8
sheets of 1/8 masonite that was used as temporary protection for the
wood floors in my house. So it has been walked on but is still in good
shape. Since I'm cheap and want to use the masonite up I would like to
use it as flooring. I would coat it with a water based urethane
product. Like the stuff used on the floors in my house. Good idea? Bad
idea? Who cares?
Thanks,
Eric

Should work OK. I'd probably glue it down just like tile. Then coat it
with poly.

If you already had it in a house, then you know it's a bad idea. The
stuff is very unstable with changing humidity. There are not enough
nails in the Puget Sound area to nail it down and not have bulges
somewhere. Get some regular 1/2 inch floor underlayment and use that.
doesn't cost much per sheet and you won't need vary many.

The other problem with masonite is the slick surface.

On the other hand, I have it for the top surface of work benches both at
home and at the plant. Glued to solid wood surface with Gorilla Glue. No
chance for it to buckle up.

Paul
Greetings Paul,
When it was in the house it was just laid on top of the maple flooring
to protect it while the finishing work was being done. It was never
fastened down. But you say that even if I glue the stuff to the
existing 3/4 plywood subfloor it will buckle? Maybe I will go with
some cheap vinyl flooring after all.
Thanks,
Eric

On Fri, 10 May 2013 13:59:33 -0700, wrote:

I bought a 14 foot x 14 foot room that a local guy had built to avoid
a building permit. So it's built just like a house would be, 2x10
floor joists, 2x6 walls, fully insulated floor, walls, and attic.
Since it is on pier blocks, is less than 200 square feet in area, and
is only plugged into power, not hardwired, the structure needs no
permitting because the county considers it a non-permanent structure.
The thing is finished inside except for the floor. The floor consists
of just tongue and groove 3/4 plywood and needs that needs to be
covered. I will be using the room as an office for my shop so I don't
need a fancy tiled floor or anything. As it happens I have many 4x8
sheets of 1/8 masonite that was used as temporary protection for the
wood floors in my house. So it has been walked on but is still in good
shape. Since I'm cheap and want to use the masonite up I would like to
use it as flooring. I would coat it with a water based urethane
product. Like the stuff used on the floors in my house. Good idea? Bad
idea? Who cares?

It's probably a bad idea, but who cares? It's almost free.

Were it my office, I'd drop a couple hundred for some nice commercial
foam-backed I/O carpeting and glue it down to the ply.
http://tinyurl.com/cjz7en2

--
Always bear in mind that your own resolution to
succeed is more important than any one thing.
-- Abraham Lincoln

Larry Jaques on Fri, 10 May 2013
21:45:54 -0700 typed in rec.crafts.metalworking the following:
On Fri, 10 May 2013 13:59:33 -0700, wrote:

I bought a 14 foot x 14 foot room that a local guy had built to avoid
a building permit. So it's built just like a house would be, 2x10
floor joists, 2x6 walls, fully insulated floor, walls, and attic.
Since it is on pier blocks, is less than 200 square feet in area, and
is only plugged into power, not hardwired, the structure needs no
permitting because the county considers it a non-permanent structure.
The thing is finished inside except for the floor. The floor consists
of just tongue and groove 3/4 plywood and needs that needs to be
covered. I will be using the room as an office for my shop so I don't
need a fancy tiled floor or anything. As it happens I have many 4x8
sheets of 1/8 masonite that was used as temporary protection for the
wood floors in my house. So it has been walked on but is still in good
shape. Since I'm cheap and want to use the masonite up I would like to
use it as flooring. I would coat it with a water based urethane
product. Like the stuff used on the floors in my house. Good idea? Bad
idea? Who cares?

It's probably a bad idea, but who cares? It's almost free.

Were it my office, I'd drop a couple hundred for some nice commercial
foam-backed I/O carpeting and glue it down to the ply.
http://tinyurl.com/cjz7en2

Masonite will work - for some values. It will be like the OSB
floor in the storage shed. "It's a floor" but it has been over five
years, it has been rain damaged (not painted when in stalled - my
fault.) and ... well, if I move the shed, the floor isn't coming
along. If I don't - "it will do".

--
pyotr filipivich
"With Age comes Wisdom. Although more often, Age travels alone."

wrote in message
...
I bought a 14 foot x 14 foot room that a local guy had built to avoid
a building permit. So it's built just like a house would be, 2x10
floor joists, 2x6 walls, fully insulated floor, walls, and attic.
Since it is on pier blocks, is less than 200 square feet in area, and
is only plugged into power, not hardwired, the structure needs no
permitting because the county considers it a non-permanent structure.
The thing is finished inside except for the floor. The floor consists
of just tongue and groove 3/4 plywood and needs that needs to be
covered. I will be using the room as an office for my shop so I don't
need a fancy tiled floor or anything. As it happens I have many 4x8
sheets of 1/8 masonite that was used as temporary protection for the
wood floors in my house. So it has been walked on but is still in good
shape. Since I'm cheap and want to use the masonite up I would like to
use it as flooring. I would coat it with a water based urethane
product. Like the stuff used on the floors in my house. Good idea? Bad
idea? Who cares?
Thanks,
Eric

We used it as an underlayment in the 70's, although I don't know if you have
the same Masonite. If it takes the urethane finish, slip resistance should
be similar to your other floors.

On Sat, 11 May 2013 07:15:19 -0400, "ATP"
wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
I bought a 14 foot x 14 foot room that a local guy had built to avoid
a building permit. So it's built just like a house would be, 2x10
floor joists, 2x6 walls, fully insulated floor, walls, and attic.
Since it is on pier blocks, is less than 200 square feet in area, and
is only plugged into power, not hardwired, the structure needs no
permitting because the county considers it a non-permanent structure.
The thing is finished inside except for the floor. The floor consists
of just tongue and groove 3/4 plywood and needs that needs to be
covered. I will be using the room as an office for my shop so I don't
need a fancy tiled floor or anything. As it happens I have many 4x8
sheets of 1/8 masonite that was used as temporary protection for the
wood floors in my house. So it has been walked on but is still in good
shape. Since I'm cheap and want to use the masonite up I would like to
use it as flooring. I would coat it with a water based urethane
product. Like the stuff used on the floors in my house. Good idea? Bad
idea? Who cares?
Thanks,
Eric

We used it as an underlayment in the 70's, although I don't know if you have
the same Masonite. If it takes the urethane finish, slip resistance should
be similar to your other floors.

Not particularly durable - it is just tempered cardboard. Wears
quickly - the urethane would be the only thing giving it any
wearability at all.

fired this volley in
:

Not particularly durable - it is just tempered cardboard. Wears
quickly - the urethane would be the only thing giving it any
wearability at all.

If it's the hard-surfaced version (tempered Masonite), recognizable by a
shiny surface, then it can be made quite durable.

We covered all the shipping tables at our plant with it, applying two
coats of VERY thinned-out oil-based urethane (to penetrate and seal),
then applying one un-thinned coat to protect the surface. We let it dry
for at least two days between coats, to gas out all the solvent on the
first two, and to permit full cross-linking on the final.

It wears like iron for medium-weight sliding traffic like 80lb product
boxes, scales, etc., although I'd have my reservations about how it would
hold up to small chair casters.

LLoyd

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
fired this volley in
:

Not particularly durable - it is just tempered cardboard. Wears
quickly - the urethane would be the only thing giving it any
wearability at all.

If it's the hard-surfaced version (tempered Masonite), recognizable by a
shiny surface, then it can be made quite durable.

We covered all the shipping tables at our plant with it, applying two
coats of VERY thinned-out oil-based urethane (to penetrate and seal),
then applying one un-thinned coat to protect the surface. We let it dry
for at least two days between coats, to gas out all the solvent on the
first two, and to permit full cross-linking on the final.

It wears like iron for medium-weight sliding traffic like 80lb product
boxes, scales, etc., although I'd have my reservations about how it would
hold up to small chair casters.

LLoyd

It's a lot harder than most natural wood ply products.

ATP wrote:

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
fired this volley in
:

Not particularly durable - it is just tempered cardboard. Wears
quickly - the urethane would be the only thing giving it any
wearability at all.

If it's the hard-surfaced version (tempered Masonite), recognizable by a
shiny surface, then it can be made quite durable.

We covered all the shipping tables at our plant with it, applying two
coats of VERY thinned-out oil-based urethane (to penetrate and seal),
then applying one un-thinned coat to protect the surface. We let it dry
for at least two days between coats, to gas out all the solvent on the
first two, and to permit full cross-linking on the final.

It wears like iron for medium-weight sliding traffic like 80lb product
boxes, scales, etc., although I'd have my reservations about how it would
hold up to small chair casters.

LLoyd

It's a lot harder than most natural wood ply products.


Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

On Sun, 12 May 2013 04:13:41 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


ATP wrote:

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com wrote in message
. 3.70...
fired this volley in
:

Not particularly durable - it is just tempered cardboard. Wears
quickly - the urethane would be the only thing giving it any
wearability at all.

If it's the hard-surfaced version (tempered Masonite), recognizable by a
shiny surface, then it can be made quite durable.

We covered all the shipping tables at our plant with it, applying two
coats of VERY thinned-out oil-based urethane (to penetrate and seal),
then applying one un-thinned coat to protect the surface. We let it dry
for at least two days between coats, to gas out all the solvent on the
first two, and to permit full cross-linking on the final.

It wears like iron for medium-weight sliding traffic like 80lb product
boxes, scales, etc., although I'd have my reservations about how it would
hold up to small chair casters.

LLoyd

It's a lot harder than most natural wood ply products.


Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.

--
Cogito, ergo armatum sum.

(I think, therefore I am armed.)

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite,
the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too.
Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't
make
a difference to the user.

I replaced the 2" casters on my new computer chair with 5" ones from a
discount/second-hand store and then had to raise the keyboard drawer
since the chair, a Turcotte from Staples, wouldn't lower far enough.

I also replaced the arm brackets with aluminum plates that raise the
back far enough to serve as a headrest while I lean back to watch TV
on the monitor.
jsw

Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.


Unless the user has very short legs.

At one time I bolted a spare bucket seat from a '66 GTO to a wood
frame for a computer chair. I used it for years, until a spring came
lose and impaled my ass cheek.

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:03:43 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite,
the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too.
Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't
make
a difference to the user.

I replaced the 2" casters on my new computer chair with 5" ones from a
discount/second-hand store and then had to raise the keyboard drawer
since the chair, a Turcotte from Staples, wouldn't lower far enough.

I bought an AWfice Depot chair, a Raynor Miranda. Since I was
spending 10+ hours a day in the damned thing, I splurged and got a
nicely padded and very adjustable chair. I'm sure glad I did. The
seat has 4-5" of foam, back and bottom. $159 at the time, now $234.
It has a high back and I can watch movies on it while lounging back.
http://www.officedepot.com/a/product...gh-Back-Chair/
Two thumbs up on this exec style chair, even after about 15 years in
the thing. It still looks and functions like new.

FWIW, I see the ghastly $1,400 "yuppie office chairs" and just laugh,
because I've tried them (just to see) and they're not nearly as comfy.


I also replaced the arm brackets with aluminum plates that raise the
back far enough to serve as a headrest while I lean back to watch TV
on the monitor.

Cool, but I thought you were smart enough to avoid teevee. :/
I bought the tall-back model. /neener

--
Cogito, ergo armatum sum.

(I think, therefore I am armed.)

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.


Unless the user has very short legs.

No, because the pneumatic cylinder is usually adjustable enough to
lower the seat accordingly. YMMV


At one time I bolted a spare bucket seat from a '66 GTO to a wood
frame for a computer chair. I used it for years, until a spring came
lose and impaled my ass cheek.

g I hate it when that happens. (Thankfully, only once so far.)

--
Cogito, ergo armatum sum.

(I think, therefore I am armed.)

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.


Unless the user has very short legs.

At one time I bolted a spare bucket seat from a '66 GTO to a wood
frame for a computer chair. I used it for years, until a spring came
lose and impaled my ass cheek.

I LIKE! That idea!!! Thanks!!

Gunner, making a note for the next trip to the wrecking yard!

--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

On Sun, 12 May 2013 12:47:15 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:03:43 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite,
the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too.
Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't
make
a difference to the user.

I replaced the 2" casters on my new computer chair with 5" ones from a
discount/second-hand store and then had to raise the keyboard drawer
since the chair, a Turcotte from Staples, wouldn't lower far enough.

I bought an AWfice Depot chair, a Raynor Miranda. Since I was
spending 10+ hours a day in the damned thing, I splurged and got a
nicely padded and very adjustable chair. I'm sure glad I did. The
seat has 4-5" of foam, back and bottom. $159 at the time, now $234.
It has a high back and I can watch movies on it while lounging back.
http://www.officedepot.com/a/product...gh-Back-Chair/
Two thumbs up on this exec style chair, even after about 15 years in
the thing. It still looks and functions like new.

FWIW, I see the ghastly $1,400 "yuppie office chairs" and just laugh,
because I've tried them (just to see) and they're not nearly as comfy.


I also replaced the arm brackets with aluminum plates that raise the
back far enough to serve as a headrest while I lean back to watch TV
on the monitor.

Cool, but I thought you were smart enough to avoid teevee. :/
I bought the tall-back model. /neener


Hey! Thats the same chair I have!! Course I bought mine at a second
hand store for $10

Love it!!

Gunner

--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:00:41 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.


Unless the user has very short legs.

At one time I bolted a spare bucket seat from a '66 GTO to a wood
frame for a computer chair. I used it for years, until a spring came
lose and impaled my ass cheek.

I LIKE! That idea!!! Thanks!!

Gunner, making a note for the next trip to the wrecking yard!
The front seat from a '49 dodge served as a couch at our place when
I was a kid. We had bucket seats for chairs in the club room at our
car club in the seventies, along with the bench seat couch.

On Sun, 12 May 2013 14:06:35 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 12:47:15 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:03:43 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message
Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite,
the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too.
Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't
make
a difference to the user.

I replaced the 2" casters on my new computer chair with 5" ones from a
discount/second-hand store and then had to raise the keyboard drawer
since the chair, a Turcotte from Staples, wouldn't lower far enough.

I bought an AWfice Depot chair, a Raynor Miranda. Since I was
spending 10+ hours a day in the damned thing, I splurged and got a
nicely padded and very adjustable chair. I'm sure glad I did. The
seat has 4-5" of foam, back and bottom. $159 at the time, now $234.
It has a high back and I can watch movies on it while lounging back.
http://www.officedepot.com/a/product...gh-Back-Chair/
Two thumbs up on this exec style chair, even after about 15 years in
the thing. It still looks and functions like new.

FWIW, I see the ghastly $1,400 "yuppie office chairs" and just laugh,
because I've tried them (just to see) and they're not nearly as comfy.


I also replaced the arm brackets with aluminum plates that raise the
back far enough to serve as a headrest while I lean back to watch TV
on the monitor.

Cool, but I thought you were smart enough to avoid teevee. :/
I bought the tall-back model. /neener


Hey! Thats the same chair I have!! Course I bought mine at a second
hand store for $10

Hey! Who do you think you are? Iggy? (That was an excellent deal.)


Love it!!

Yeah, it's tits, ain't it?

Offline:
PP for the rasps and some Cheetos money. (I don't buy my friends
sugary drinks, so get yer own MtnDooDoo and KafPOW, Abby.)

--
Cogito, ergo armatum sum.

(I think, therefore I am armed.)

On Sun, 12 May 2013 18:11:49 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:00:41 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.


Unless the user has very short legs.

At one time I bolted a spare bucket seat from a '66 GTO to a wood
frame for a computer chair. I used it for years, until a spring came
lose and impaled my ass cheek.

I LIKE! That idea!!! Thanks!!

Gunner, making a note for the next trip to the wrecking yard!

The front seat from a '49 dodge served as a couch at our place when
I was a kid. We had bucket seats for chairs in the club room at our
car club in the seventies, along with the bench seat couch.

Some friends in LoCal had a couple of truck bench seats in their back
yard around a fire pit. They were comfy with a lady friend. The
vinyl let spilled beer run right off it, too. (LJ- not missing that
last part at all.)

Some years back, I copped 6 actual innerspring theater seats (ca 1945
from the Illinois Valley Theater) which had been fastened 4-up on an
oak tubasix box. They were brown ArtDeco motif with chocolate brown
fabric. Someone had lots of them for free on Craigslist so I grabbed
6, then sold them last year for $100 on Craigslist. They weren't as
comfy as the new, heavily-padded lounge chairs theaters use today.
http://www.homeandgardenhandyman.com...eaterseats.jpg
http://www.homeandgardenhandyman.com...aterSeats4.jpg

Disregard the brass headboard in the living room. It was for the
adjustable bed.

--
Cogito, ergo armatum sum.

(I think, therefore I am armed.)

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 18:11:49 -0400, wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:00:41 -0700, Gunner Asch
wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:
Michael A. Terrell wrote:
Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.
Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.

Unless the user has very short legs.

At one time I bolted a spare bucket seat from a '66 GTO to a wood
frame for a computer chair. I used it for years, until a spring came
lose and impaled my ass cheek.
I LIKE! That idea!!! Thanks!!

Gunner, making a note for the next trip to the wrecking yard!
The front seat from a '49 dodge served as a couch at our place when
I was a kid. We had bucket seats for chairs in the club room at our
car club in the seventies, along with the bench seat couch.

Some friends in LoCal had a couple of truck bench seats in their back
yard around a fire pit. They were comfy with a lady friend. The
vinyl let spilled beer run right off it, too. (LJ- not missing that
last part at all.)

Some years back, I copped 6 actual innerspring theater seats (ca 1945
from the Illinois Valley Theater) which had been fastened 4-up on an
oak tubasix box. They were brown ArtDeco motif with chocolate brown
fabric. Someone had lots of them for free on Craigslist so I grabbed
6, then sold them last year for $100 on Craigslist. They weren't as
comfy as the new, heavily-padded lounge chairs theaters use today.
http://www.homeandgardenhandyman.com...eaterseats.jpg
http://www.homeandgardenhandyman.com...aterSeats4.jpg

Disregard the brass headboard in the living room. It was for the
adjustable bed.

--
Cogito, ergo armatum sum.

(I think, therefore I am armed.)


I have the rear seats out of an older Caravan in the shop as seats.
Pulling the buckets out of my old Blazer and plan on making a gaming
seat out of one, the other I just want the power assembly for my daily
driver!

--
Steve W.

Larry Jaques wrote:

Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height,
Yeah... from "too short" to "WAY damn too short".

taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.
They do to me.

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.


Unless the user has very short legs.

No, because the pneumatic cylinder is usually adjustable enough to
lower the seat accordingly. YMMV


Some don't go high enough for me. Not all the cylinders are created
the same. I am in the process of getting rid of a bunch of broken &
worn out chairs. Most have bad cylinders, some have multiple cracks,
and the others have too many stripped out bolt holes. They have all
passed their useful life, and just aren't worth more time & money for
another round of repairs. A couple of the molded plastic bases have let
the tube slide down enough to drag on the floor.


I was looking at this chair. It has a heavy duty cylinder.


http://www.everythingfurniture.com/off4-leather-office-chair-3.html?cmp=channeladvisor&kw=off4-leather-office-chair-3&utm_campaign=Froogle&utm_medium=Comparison&utm_s ource=Froogle_EF&utm_term=GO-228S-BK-LEA-GG&utm_content=Flash%20Furniture&gclid=COD1n_jT2rU CFQvpnAodJSkAaQ

On Sun, 12 May 2013 22:42:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.


Unless the user has very short legs.

No, because the pneumatic cylinder is usually adjustable enough to
lower the seat accordingly. YMMV


Some don't go high enough for me. Not all the cylinders are created
the same. I am in the process of getting rid of a bunch of broken &
worn out chairs. Most have bad cylinders, some have multiple cracks,
and the others have too many stripped out bolt holes. They have all
passed their useful life, and just aren't worth more time & money for
another round of repairs. A couple of the molded plastic bases have let
the tube slide down enough to drag on the floor.

Bummer.


I was looking at this chair. It has a heavy duty cylinder.

Umm, all I can say is "RUN AWAY!"

http://www.everythingfurniture.com/off4-leather-office-chair-3.html?cmp=channeladvisor&kw=off4-leather-office-chair-3&utm_campaign=Froogle&utm_medium=Comparison&utm_s ource=Froogle_EF&utm_term=GO-228S-BK-LEA-GG&utm_content=Flash%20Furniture&gclid=COD1n_jT2rU CFQvpnAodJSkAaQ


That's a cardboard chair with maybe half an inch of padding in it. The
heavy-duty cylinder you see is really a cheap plastic cover over a
puny cylinder, I'll bet. ($10? When I bet, it's a sure thing, 'cuz I
can't afford to lose that much.) At $79, that's a cheapo pigskin
chair from Chiwan.

--
Cogito, ergo armatum sum.

(I think, therefore I am armed.)

... But you say that even if I glue the stuff to the
existing 3/4 plywood subfloor it will buckle?...

How about just letting it float (don't nail or glue)? Adjacent pieces
could be fastened together on the underside with carpet tape. Or edges
glued together.

Bob

Bob Engelhardt wrote:
... But you say that even if I glue the stuff to the
existing 3/4 plywood subfloor it will buckle?...

How about just letting it float (don't nail or glue)? Adjacent pieces
could be fastened together on the underside with carpet tape. Or edges
glued together.

Bob

That would be about how the expensive fake wood floors are done, And
many of them are basically masonite...

--
Steve W.

On Mon, 13 May 2013 17:09:36 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 22:42:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.


Unless the user has very short legs.

No, because the pneumatic cylinder is usually adjustable enough to
lower the seat accordingly. YMMV


Some don't go high enough for me. Not all the cylinders are created
the same. I am in the process of getting rid of a bunch of broken &
worn out chairs. Most have bad cylinders, some have multiple cracks,
and the others have too many stripped out bolt holes. They have all
passed their useful life, and just aren't worth more time & money for
another round of repairs. A couple of the molded plastic bases have let
the tube slide down enough to drag on the floor.

Bummer.


I was looking at this chair. It has a heavy duty cylinder.

Umm, all I can say is "RUN AWAY!"

http://www.everythingfurniture.com/off4-leather-office-chair-3.html?cmp=channeladvisor&kw=off4-leather-office-chair-3&utm_campaign=Froogle&utm_medium=Comparison&utm_s ource=Froogle_EF&utm_term=GO-228S-BK-LEA-GG&utm_content=Flash%20Furniture&gclid=COD1n_jT2rU CFQvpnAodJSkAaQ


That's a cardboard chair with maybe half an inch of padding in it. The
heavy-duty cylinder you see is really a cheap plastic cover over a
puny cylinder, I'll bet. ($10? When I bet, it's a sure thing, 'cuz I
can't afford to lose that much.) At $79, that's a cheapo pigskin
chair from Chiwan.


Id agree.

If you want a GOOD chair..hit business closings. Office furniture is
seldom sold at the auction except in job lots...and often you can
give the buyer $20 for a chair of that sort..because they are their
for the filing cabinets, etc etc

Gunner

--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

On May 13, 9:22*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2013 17:09:36 -0700, Larry Jaques





wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 22:42:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

* Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. *I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. *If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. *Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.

*Unless the user has very short legs.

No, because the pneumatic cylinder is usually adjustable enough to
lower the seat accordingly. *YMMV

* Some don't go high enough for me. *Not all the cylinders are created
the same. *I am in the process of getting rid of a bunch of broken &
worn out chairs. *Most have bad cylinders, some have multiple cracks,
and the others have too many stripped out bolt holes. *They have all
passed their useful life, and just aren't worth more time & money for
another round of repairs. *A couple of the molded plastic bases have let
the tube slide down enough to drag on the floor.

Bummer.

* I was looking at this chair. *It has a heavy duty cylinder.

Umm, all I can say is "RUN AWAY!"

http://www.everythingfurniture.com/off4-leather-office-chair-3.html?c....

That's a cardboard chair with maybe half an inch of padding in it. The
heavy-duty cylinder you see is really a cheap plastic cover over a
puny cylinder, I'll bet. *($10? *When I bet, it's a sure thing, 'cuz I
can't afford to lose that much.) *At $79, that's a cheapo pigskin
chair from Chiwan.

Id agree.

If you want a GOOD chair..hit business closings. *Office furniture is
seldom sold *at the auction except in job lots...and often you can
give the buyer $20 for a chair of that sort..because they are their
for the filing cabinets, etc etc

Gunner


The ones to get are Aeron brand. You can get parts for them and if
you have to park your butt for hours like I do for programming, they
are about as comfortable as an office chair gets. The seat is contour
mesh instead of foam over plywood or particle board and everything
adjusts. The mesh makes for good air circulation, more like a hammock
for your butt. Too bad list is in 4 figures, businesses get
depreciation on them, though. One of the guys I know at work managed
to pick one up used for like $350 for home use, he's got a bad back
and needed it at home for the computer. At auction, who knows? I've
heard of the company fixing ones with bad lift cylinders gratis, don't
know if they still do it, though.

And I've never seen metal filing cabinets ever go at an auction,
nobody wants them, at least around here. Last office equipment
auction I was at, the auctioneer wanted $5 for a good-looking group of
5 5 drawer cabinets, didn't get it, no bids.

Stan

On Tue, 14 May 2013 19:18:56 -0700 (PDT), Stanley Schaefer
wrote:

On May 13, 9:22*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2013 17:09:36 -0700, Larry Jaques





wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 22:42:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

* Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. *I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. *If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. *Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.

*Unless the user has very short legs.

No, because the pneumatic cylinder is usually adjustable enough to
lower the seat accordingly. *YMMV

* Some don't go high enough for me. *Not all the cylinders are created
the same. *I am in the process of getting rid of a bunch of broken &
worn out chairs. *Most have bad cylinders, some have multiple cracks,
and the others have too many stripped out bolt holes. *They have all
passed their useful life, and just aren't worth more time & money for
another round of repairs. *A couple of the molded plastic bases have let
the tube slide down enough to drag on the floor.

Bummer.

* I was looking at this chair. *It has a heavy duty cylinder.

Umm, all I can say is "RUN AWAY!"

http://www.everythingfurniture.com/off4-leather-office-chair-3.html?c...

That's a cardboard chair with maybe half an inch of padding in it. The
heavy-duty cylinder you see is really a cheap plastic cover over a
puny cylinder, I'll bet. *($10? *When I bet, it's a sure thing, 'cuz I
can't afford to lose that much.) *At $79, that's a cheapo pigskin
chair from Chiwan.

Id agree.

If you want a GOOD chair..hit business closings. *Office furniture is
seldom sold *at the auction except in job lots...and often you can
give the buyer $20 for a chair of that sort..because they are their
for the filing cabinets, etc etc

Gunner


The ones to get are Aeron brand. You can get parts for them and if
you have to park your butt for hours like I do for programming, they
are about as comfortable as an office chair gets. The seat is contour
mesh instead of foam over plywood or particle board and everything
adjusts. The mesh makes for good air circulation, more like a hammock
for your butt. Too bad list is in 4 figures, businesses get
depreciation on them, though. One of the guys I know at work managed
to pick one up used for like $350 for home use, he's got a bad back
and needed it at home for the computer. At auction, who knows? I've
heard of the company fixing ones with bad lift cylinders gratis, don't
know if they still do it, though.

And I've never seen metal filing cabinets ever go at an auction,
nobody wants them, at least around here. Last office equipment
auction I was at, the auctioneer wanted $5 for a good-looking group of
5 5 drawer cabinets, didn't get it, no bids.

Stan

Here in California..office equipment still gets bid on. But as an
entire lot..not as individual pieces.

I went to an auction 2 weeks ago. All the office Stuff went for $100


--
"You guess the truth hurts?

Really?

"Hurt" aint the word.

For Liberals, the truth is like salt to a slug.
Sunlight to a vampire.
Raid® to a cockroach.
Sheriff Brody to a shark
Bush to a Liberal

The truth doesn't just hurt. It's painful, like a red hot poker shoved
up their ass. Like sliding down a hundred foot razor blade using their
dick as a brake.

They HATE the truth."

On Tue, 14 May 2013 19:18:56 -0700 (PDT), Stanley Schaefer
wrote:

On May 13, 9:22*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2013 17:09:36 -0700, Larry Jaques





wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 22:42:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

* Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. *I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. *If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. *Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.

*Unless the user has very short legs.

No, because the pneumatic cylinder is usually adjustable enough to
lower the seat accordingly. *YMMV

* Some don't go high enough for me. *Not all the cylinders are created
the same. *I am in the process of getting rid of a bunch of broken &
worn out chairs. *Most have bad cylinders, some have multiple cracks,
and the others have too many stripped out bolt holes. *They have all
passed their useful life, and just aren't worth more time & money for
another round of repairs. *A couple of the molded plastic bases have let
the tube slide down enough to drag on the floor.

Bummer.

* I was looking at this chair. *It has a heavy duty cylinder.

Umm, all I can say is "RUN AWAY!"

http://www.everythingfurniture.com/off4-leather-office-chair-3.html?c...

That's a cardboard chair with maybe half an inch of padding in it. The
heavy-duty cylinder you see is really a cheap plastic cover over a
puny cylinder, I'll bet. *($10? *When I bet, it's a sure thing, 'cuz I
can't afford to lose that much.) *At $79, that's a cheapo pigskin
chair from Chiwan.

Id agree.

If you want a GOOD chair..hit business closings. *Office furniture is
seldom sold *at the auction except in job lots...and often you can
give the buyer $20 for a chair of that sort..because they are their
for the filing cabinets, etc etc

Gunner


The ones to get are Aeron brand. You can get parts for them and if
you have to park your butt for hours like I do for programming, they
are about as comfortable as an office chair gets. The seat is contour
mesh instead of foam over plywood or particle board and everything
adjusts. The mesh makes for good air circulation, more like a hammock
for your butt. Too bad list is in 4 figures, businesses get
depreciation on them, though. One of the guys I know at work managed
to pick one up used for like $350 for home use, he's got a bad back
and needed it at home for the computer. At auction, who knows? I've
heard of the company fixing ones with bad lift cylinders gratis, don't
know if they still do it, though.

And I've never seen metal filing cabinets ever go at an auction,
nobody wants them, at least around here. Last office equipment
auction I was at, the auctioneer wanted $5 for a good-looking group of
5 5 drawer cabinets, didn't get it, no bids.

Stan
Last business auction I was at the little filing cabinets went for
about 25% of new, and big ones about a buck more - laterals went for
about $50. But that was about 8 or 10 years ago.

On Tue, 14 May 2013 19:18:56 -0700 (PDT), Stanley Schaefer
wrote:

On May 13, 9:22*pm, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Mon, 13 May 2013 17:09:36 -0700, Larry Jaques





wrote:
On Sun, 12 May 2013 22:42:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

* Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. *I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. *If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. *Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.

*Unless the user has very short legs.

No, because the pneumatic cylinder is usually adjustable enough to
lower the seat accordingly. *YMMV

* Some don't go high enough for me. *Not all the cylinders are created
the same. *I am in the process of getting rid of a bunch of broken &
worn out chairs. *Most have bad cylinders, some have multiple cracks,
and the others have too many stripped out bolt holes. *They have all
passed their useful life, and just aren't worth more time & money for
another round of repairs. *A couple of the molded plastic bases have let
the tube slide down enough to drag on the floor.

Bummer.

* I was looking at this chair. *It has a heavy duty cylinder.

Umm, all I can say is "RUN AWAY!"

http://www.everythingfurniture.com/off4-leather-office-chair-3.html?c...

That's a cardboard chair with maybe half an inch of padding in it. The
heavy-duty cylinder you see is really a cheap plastic cover over a
puny cylinder, I'll bet. *($10? *When I bet, it's a sure thing, 'cuz I
can't afford to lose that much.) *At $79, that's a cheapo pigskin
chair from Chiwan.

Id agree.

If you want a GOOD chair..hit business closings. *Office furniture is
seldom sold *at the auction except in job lots...and often you can
give the buyer $20 for a chair of that sort..because they are their
for the filing cabinets, etc etc

Gunner


The ones to get are Aeron brand.

IMHO, those are both overrated and waaaaay overpriced.

--
The Road to Success...is always under construction.
--anon

Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 13 May 2013 17:09:36 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 22:42:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.


Unless the user has very short legs.

No, because the pneumatic cylinder is usually adjustable enough to
lower the seat accordingly. YMMV


Some don't go high enough for me. Not all the cylinders are created
the same. I am in the process of getting rid of a bunch of broken &
worn out chairs. Most have bad cylinders, some have multiple cracks,
and the others have too many stripped out bolt holes. They have all
passed their useful life, and just aren't worth more time & money for
another round of repairs. A couple of the molded plastic bases have let
the tube slide down enough to drag on the floor.

Bummer.


I was looking at this chair. It has a heavy duty cylinder.

Umm, all I can say is "RUN AWAY!"

http://www.everythingfurniture.com/off4-leather-office-chair-3.html?cmp=channeladvisor&kw=off4-leather-office-chair-3&utm_campaign=Froogle&utm_medium=Comparison&utm_s ource=Froogle_EF&utm_term=GO-228S-BK-LEA-GG&utm_content=Flash%20Furniture&gclid=COD1n_jT2rU CFQvpnAodJSkAaQ


That's a cardboard chair with maybe half an inch of padding in it. The
heavy-duty cylinder you see is really a cheap plastic cover over a
puny cylinder, I'll bet. ($10? When I bet, it's a sure thing, 'cuz I
can't afford to lose that much.) At $79, that's a cheapo pigskin
chair from Chiwan.

Id agree.

If you want a GOOD chair..hit business closings. Office furniture is
seldom sold at the auction except in job lots...and often you can
give the buyer $20 for a chair of that sort..because they are their
for the filing cabinets, etc etc


I haven't seen a business auction around here, for years. Most of the
time broker will just haul away everything and try to sell it out of a
warehouse. The last used office chair I saw for sale was one of those
heavy gray monsters the Army used in the '70s and they wanted $75 for
it. All I see are worn out $39 chairs for $45.

I found a office chair with bad stains hiding in the shop. It has
broken wheels. I have to see if I can get the stuck stems out without
breaking anything, then see if I can find a way to get it into my
bedroom. It's too wide for the hallway, so it looks like I'll have to
take out a window.

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 22:42:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.


Unless the user has very short legs.

No, because the pneumatic cylinder is usually adjustable enough to
lower the seat accordingly. YMMV


Some don't go high enough for me. Not all the cylinders are created
the same. I am in the process of getting rid of a bunch of broken &
worn out chairs. Most have bad cylinders, some have multiple cracks,
and the others have too many stripped out bolt holes. They have all
passed their useful life, and just aren't worth more time & money for
another round of repairs. A couple of the molded plastic bases have let
the tube slide down enough to drag on the floor.

Bummer.

I was looking at this chair. It has a heavy duty cylinder.

Umm, all I can say is "RUN AWAY!"

http://www.everythingfurniture.com/off4-leather-office-chair-3.html?cmp=channeladvisor&kw=off4-leather-office-chair-3&utm_campaign=Froogle&utm_medium=Comparison&utm_s ource=Froogle_EF&utm_term=GO-228S-BK-LEA-GG&utm_content=Flash%20Furniture&gclid=COD1n_jT2rU CFQvpnAodJSkAaQ

That's a cardboard chair with maybe half an inch of padding in it. The
heavy-duty cylinder you see is really a cheap plastic cover over a
puny cylinder, I'll bet. ($10? When I bet, it's a sure thing, 'cuz I
can't afford to lose that much.) At $79, that's a cheapo pigskin
chair from Chiwan.


Aren't they all, if they sell for under a $1,000?

On Fri, 17 May 2013 17:39:18 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 13 May 2013 17:09:36 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 22:42:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.


Unless the user has very short legs.

No, because the pneumatic cylinder is usually adjustable enough to
lower the seat accordingly. YMMV


Some don't go high enough for me. Not all the cylinders are created
the same. I am in the process of getting rid of a bunch of broken &
worn out chairs. Most have bad cylinders, some have multiple cracks,
and the others have too many stripped out bolt holes. They have all
passed their useful life, and just aren't worth more time & money for
another round of repairs. A couple of the molded plastic bases have let
the tube slide down enough to drag on the floor.

Bummer.


I was looking at this chair. It has a heavy duty cylinder.

Umm, all I can say is "RUN AWAY!"

http://www.everythingfurniture.com/off4-leather-office-chair-3.html?cmp=channeladvisor&kw=off4-leather-office-chair-3&utm_campaign=Froogle&utm_medium=Comparison&utm_s ource=Froogle_EF&utm_term=GO-228S-BK-LEA-GG&utm_content=Flash%20Furniture&gclid=COD1n_jT2rU CFQvpnAodJSkAaQ


That's a cardboard chair with maybe half an inch of padding in it. The
heavy-duty cylinder you see is really a cheap plastic cover over a
puny cylinder, I'll bet. ($10? When I bet, it's a sure thing, 'cuz I
can't afford to lose that much.) At $79, that's a cheapo pigskin
chair from Chiwan.

Id agree.

If you want a GOOD chair..hit business closings. Office furniture is
seldom sold at the auction except in job lots...and often you can
give the buyer $20 for a chair of that sort..because they are their
for the filing cabinets, etc etc


I haven't seen a business auction around here, for years. Most of the

Yeah, the employees usually waltz off with all the good stuff before
the biz goes into the official BK.


time broker will just haul away everything and try to sell it out of a
warehouse. The last used office chair I saw for sale was one of those
heavy gray monsters the Army used in the '70s and they wanted $75 for
it.

That's called "vintage" on eBay and it goes for a markup. sigh


All I see are worn out $39 chairs for $45.

Those are great for laughs, aren't they? g


I found a office chair with bad stains hiding in the shop. It has
broken wheels. I have to see if I can get the stuck stems out without
breaking anything,

Take the base off and install the ViseGrip tool on the end of your
slide hammer puller. Open the vise enough to get the vise grips and
stem flange through, lock the vise grips on the stem in question, hold
it up to the vise jaws, and give it a tap with the slide. They usually
come out after a single tap, but they stick in there pretty well
sometimes. Done in 2-minutes, after a 10-minute setup.

CAUTION! Metalworking Content Follows: If you don't have the vise grip
tool for the slide hammah, you can make one by drill/tapping a 10-24
hole in the end of your vise grip adjuster screw. Now grind down a
long 10-24 bolt or screw head to fit the slid hammer cap and fit 'em
together. It's a --really-- handy tool to have. DAMHIKT.


then see if I can find a way to get it into my
bedroom. It's too wide for the hallway, so it looks like I'll have to
take out a window.

Always the hard way with you, eh, mon? (shakes head and grins)

--
The Road to Success...is always under construction.
--anon

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Fri, 17 May 2013 17:39:18 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Gunner Asch wrote:

On Mon, 13 May 2013 17:09:36 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 22:42:38 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sun, 12 May 2013 13:41:47 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

Office supply stores used to stock Tempered Masonite chair mats,
before the molded plastic ones were available. I saw a homemade one the
other day, for a large computer desk.

Oversized casters help there, too. If he goes with the masonite, the
larger wheels would do a bit less damage and make it last longer. If
he goes with carpet, they make it easier to roll on that, too. Since
all the new chairs are adjustable in height, taller wheels don't make
a difference to the user.


Unless the user has very short legs.

No, because the pneumatic cylinder is usually adjustable enough to
lower the seat accordingly. YMMV


Some don't go high enough for me. Not all the cylinders are created
the same. I am in the process of getting rid of a bunch of broken &
worn out chairs. Most have bad cylinders, some have multiple cracks,
and the others have too many stripped out bolt holes. They have all
passed their useful life, and just aren't worth more time & money for
another round of repairs. A couple of the molded plastic bases have let
the tube slide down enough to drag on the floor.

Bummer.


I was looking at this chair. It has a heavy duty cylinder.

Umm, all I can say is "RUN AWAY!"

http://www.everythingfurniture.com/off4-leather-office-chair-3.html?cmp=channeladvisor&kw=off4-leather-office-chair-3&utm_campaign=Froogle&utm_medium=Comparison&utm_s ource=Froogle_EF&utm_term=GO-228S-BK-LEA-GG&utm_content=Flash%20Furniture&gclid=COD1n_jT2rU CFQvpnAodJSkAaQ


That's a cardboard chair with maybe half an inch of padding in it. The
heavy-duty cylinder you see is really a cheap plastic cover over a
puny cylinder, I'll bet. ($10? When I bet, it's a sure thing, 'cuz I
can't afford to lose that much.) At $79, that's a cheapo pigskin
chair from Chiwan.

Id agree.

If you want a GOOD chair..hit business closings. Office furniture is
seldom sold at the auction except in job lots...and often you can
give the buyer $20 for a chair of that sort..because they are their
for the filing cabinets, etc etc


I haven't seen a business auction around here, for years. Most of the

Yeah, the employees usually waltz off with all the good stuff before
the biz goes into the official BK.


Most of what closed around here was moved to another location to
consolidate manufacturing. That's where most of my now broken beyond
chairs came from. Emerson Electric bought a local company, closed it
and hauled away what they wanted. They left a dozen chairs behind, and
I got a bunch of them. Some were used on the production floor, and one
has a large stain where they spilled rosin flux. That's the one I found
hidden in the back of the shop.


time broker will just haul away everything and try to sell it out of a
warehouse. The last used office chair I saw for sale was one of those
heavy gray monsters the Army used in the '70s and they wanted $75 for
it.

That's called "vintage" on eBay and it goes for a markup. sigh

All I see are worn out $39 chairs for $45.

Those are great for laughs, aren't they? g


Not when they are all you can find.


I found a office chair with bad stains hiding in the shop. It has
broken wheels. I have to see if I can get the stuck stems out without
breaking anything,

Take the base off and install the ViseGrip tool on the end of your
slide hammer puller. Open the vise enough to get the vise grips and
stem flange through, lock the vise grips on the stem in question, hold
it up to the vise jaws, and give it a tap with the slide. They usually
come out after a single tap, but they stick in there pretty well
sometimes. Done in 2-minutes, after a 10-minute setup.


Slide hammer is one tool I don't own. I've never really had a need
for one in the last six decades. If all else fails, I'll try to drill a
hole through the bad stem and use a couple small pry bars to 'lift it
out'. Or a worn out huge old pair of dikes. Maybe bolt cutters?
Thread it, then use a spacer, a nut & wrench? ;-)


CAUTION! Metalworking Content Follows: If you don't have the vise grip
tool for the slide hammah, you can make one by drill/tapping a 10-24
hole in the end of your vise grip adjuster screw. Now grind down a
long 10-24 bolt or screw head to fit the slid hammer cap and fit 'em
together. It's a --really-- handy tool to have. DAMHIKT.

then see if I can find a way to get it into my
bedroom. It's too wide for the hallway, so it looks like I'll have to
take out a window.

Always the hard way with you, eh, mon? (shakes head and grins)


The former owner was a midget. That hallway is only 26 inches wide
and wouldn't meet current building codes. If I was in better health, I
would tear out that wall, the old furnace and remodel the bathroom and
give me a 36" hallway. I may have to contact Vets Helping Vets and ask
them to do the work, but it really bugs me that I don't have the
strength or endurance I used to. The bathroom has lots of floor space,
but it is very poorly laid out. Especially for someone who's disabled.
I took one of my small shop carts in there, to hold on to when I'm
getting off the low slung toilet. I'm either going to buy a taller one,
or raise it four to five inches so I can stand up when I'm done. My dad
had the taller type installed at his house. Just the toilet was over
$400.

On Sat, 18 May 2013 00:54:56 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Slide hammer is one tool I don't own. I've never really had a need
for one in the last six decades.

You just haven't -realized- that you needed one those last 60 years,
Mikey. Some are small enough to work with one hand (thumb-actuated
hammah), removing seats in sink faucets. Until you use one, you may
not realize just how many uses it has.


If all else fails, I'll try to drill a
hole through the bad stem and use a couple small pry bars to 'lift it
out'. Or a worn out huge old pair of dikes. Maybe bolt cutters?
Thread it, then use a spacer, a nut & wrench? ;-)

Aw, ya hack.


CAUTION! Metalworking Content Follows: If you don't have the vise grip
tool for the slide hammah, you can make one by drill/tapping a 10-24
hole in the end of your vise grip adjuster screw. Now grind down a
long 10-24 bolt or screw head to fit the slid hammer cap and fit 'em
together. It's a --really-- handy tool to have. DAMHIKT.

then see if I can find a way to get it into my
bedroom. It's too wide for the hallway, so it looks like I'll have to
take out a window.

Always the hard way with you, eh, mon? (shakes head and grins)


The former owner was a midget. That hallway is only 26 inches wide
and wouldn't meet current building codes. If I was in better health, I
would tear out that wall, the old furnace and remodel the bathroom and
give me a 36" hallway. I may have to contact Vets Helping Vets and ask
them to do the work, but it really bugs me that I don't have the
strength or endurance I used to. The bathroom has lots of floor space,
but it is very poorly laid out. Especially for someone who's disabled.
I took one of my small shop carts in there, to hold on to when I'm
getting off the low slung toilet. I'm either going to buy a taller one,
or raise it four to five inches so I can stand up when I'm done. My dad
had the taller type installed at his house. Just the toilet was over
$400.

They're $135 at local Borgs. Consider a trapeze type lift, like they
use over old people's beds to help them sit up. Coupla tubafores
(cheaper than pipe, but both work), some rope, and a foot of pipe and
Bob's yer Uncle.
http://tinyurl.com/b8ke73w


--
The Road to Success...is always under construction.
--anon

Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sat, 18 May 2013 00:54:56 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Slide hammer is one tool I don't own. I've never really had a need
for one in the last six decades.

You just haven't -realized- that you needed one those last 60 years,
Mikey. Some are small enough to work with one hand (thumb-actuated
hammah), removing seats in sink faucets. Until you use one, you may
not realize just how many uses it has.


The only bad seat I've run into was cracked, along with the brass
body. That spacing was NLA, so I filled the crack with liquid flux, and
soldered it.


If all else fails, I'll try to drill a
hole through the bad stem and use a couple small pry bars to 'lift it
out'. Or a worn out huge old pair of dikes. Maybe bolt cutters?
Thread it, then use a spacer, a nut & wrench? ;-)

Aw, ya hack.


Where there is a will...


CAUTION! Metalworking Content Follows: If you don't have the vise grip
tool for the slide hammah, you can make one by drill/tapping a 10-24
hole in the end of your vise grip adjuster screw. Now grind down a
long 10-24 bolt or screw head to fit the slid hammer cap and fit 'em
together. It's a --really-- handy tool to have. DAMHIKT.

then see if I can find a way to get it into my
bedroom. It's too wide for the hallway, so it looks like I'll have to
take out a window.

Always the hard way with you, eh, mon? (shakes head and grins)


The former owner was a midget. That hallway is only 26 inches wide
and wouldn't meet current building codes. If I was in better health, I
would tear out that wall, the old furnace and remodel the bathroom and
give me a 36" hallway. I may have to contact Vets Helping Vets and ask
them to do the work, but it really bugs me that I don't have the
strength or endurance I used to. The bathroom has lots of floor space,
but it is very poorly laid out. Especially for someone who's disabled.
I took one of my small shop carts in there, to hold on to when I'm
getting off the low slung toilet. I'm either going to buy a taller one,
or raise it four to five inches so I can stand up when I'm done. My dad
had the taller type installed at his house. Just the toilet was over
$400.

They're $135 at local Borgs. Consider a trapeze type lift, like they
use over old people's beds to help them sit up. Coupla tubafores
(cheaper than pipe, but both work), some rope, and a foot of pipe and
Bob's yer Uncle.
http://tinyurl.com/b8ke73w


I have no trouble standing up, as long as the seat isn't too low.
Just like my hospital bed. It's high enough that my legs are slightly
above my knees when I sit up.

On Sat, 18 May 2013 15:38:01 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:


Larry Jaques wrote:

On Sat, 18 May 2013 00:54:56 -0400, "Michael A. Terrell"
wrote:

Slide hammer is one tool I don't own. I've never really had a need
for one in the last six decades.

You just haven't -realized- that you needed one those last 60 years,
Mikey. Some are small enough to work with one hand (thumb-actuated
hammah), removing seats in sink faucets. Until you use one, you may
not realize just how many uses it has.


The only bad seat I've run into was cracked, along with the brass
body. That spacing was NLA, so I filled the crack with liquid flux, and
soldered it.

You's from Flowda, ain'tcha, boy?


If all else fails, I'll try to drill a
hole through the bad stem and use a couple small pry bars to 'lift it
out'. Or a worn out huge old pair of dikes. Maybe bolt cutters?
Thread it, then use a spacer, a nut & wrench? ;-)

Aw, ya hack.


Where there is a will...

There are false beneficiaries clawing to get a piece.


CAUTION! Metalworking Content Follows: If you don't have the vise grip
tool for the slide hammah, you can make one by drill/tapping a 10-24
hole in the end of your vise grip adjuster screw. Now grind down a
long 10-24 bolt or screw head to fit the slid hammer cap and fit 'em
together. It's a --really-- handy tool to have. DAMHIKT.

then see if I can find a way to get it into my
bedroom. It's too wide for the hallway, so it looks like I'll have to
take out a window.

Always the hard way with you, eh, mon? (shakes head and grins)


The former owner was a midget. That hallway is only 26 inches wide
and wouldn't meet current building codes. If I was in better health, I
would tear out that wall, the old furnace and remodel the bathroom and
give me a 36" hallway. I may have to contact Vets Helping Vets and ask
them to do the work, but it really bugs me that I don't have the
strength or endurance I used to. The bathroom has lots of floor space,
but it is very poorly laid out. Especially for someone who's disabled.
I took one of my small shop carts in there, to hold on to when I'm
getting off the low slung toilet. I'm either going to buy a taller one,
or raise it four to five inches so I can stand up when I'm done. My dad
had the taller type installed at his house. Just the toilet was over
$400.

They're $135 at local Borgs. Consider a trapeze type lift, like they
use over old people's beds to help them sit up. Coupla tubafores
(cheaper than pipe, but both work), some rope, and a foot of pipe and
Bob's yer Uncle.
http://tinyurl.com/b8ke73w


I have no trouble standing up, as long as the seat isn't too low.
Just like my hospital bed. It's high enough that my legs are slightly
above my knees when I sit up.

Learn to lean your torso down onto your knees to take the weight off
the knee while you stand, then stand up and unbend. Works a treat.
I learned that when I had patellar tendinitis, which turned out to be
simple food allergies. Whenever I eat much corn + sugar, look out!
My rotator cuffs prefer the avoidance, too. If anecdotal evidence is
correct, I'll bet half the people in doctors offices could be pretty
much cured by simple diet changes. There's your cost savings for
Bammy Care. Don't throw Mama under the train. You'd have a better
time in doctors' offices without these other folks' allergies tying
them up, wouldn't you?

--
The Road to Success...is always under construction.
--anon

Larry Jaques wrote:

Michael A. Terrell wrote:

The only bad seat I've run into was cracked, along with the brass
body. That spacing was NLA, so I filled the crack with liquid flux, and
soldered it.

You's from Flowda, ain'tcha, boy?


No. I live in Florida, but I'm from the North.


Where there is a will...

There are false beneficiaries clawing to get a piece.


Of a will to repair something?

I have no trouble standing up, as long as the seat isn't too low.
Just like my hospital bed. It's high enough that my legs are slightly
above my knees when I sit up.

Learn to lean your torso down onto your knees to take the weight off
the knee while you stand, then stand up and unbend. Works a treat.
I learned that when I had patellar tendinitis, which turned out to be
simple food allergies. Whenever I eat much corn + sugar, look out!
My rotator cuffs prefer the avoidance, too. If anecdotal evidence is
correct, I'll bet half the people in doctors offices could be pretty
much cured by simple diet changes. There's your cost savings for
Bammy Care. Don't throw Mama under the train. You'd have a better
time in doctors' offices without these other folks' allergies tying
them up, wouldn't you?


95% of the people I see at the doctor's office are 60+ Veterans.
They have a whole different set of issues.

I have a bad knee. Your method doesn't help, other than to cause
pain. I grab a table or use my cane in one hand and put the other on
the seat to lift myself a few inches, then I can stand.