I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I would like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2" drill that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has enough power. Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? I saw something like what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a lot more than I want to spend. It seems there should be a cheaper solution. I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.

"homesteader824" wrote in message
...

I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2" drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power. Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a
shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? I saw something like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a
lot more than I want to spend. It seems there should be a cheaper
solution. I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the
shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.




--
homesteader824

Not knowing what "junk" you have available...

What about a piece of rubber hose or beverage tubing with a 5/8" id fitted
to the sht shaft & held tight with a clamp.

Then find something that will fit the drill & have a 5/8" od you can push
into the tube. Maybe a small socket on a hex drive adaptor or similar. Maybe
a TEK screw drive bit (if you call them that where ever you are).

On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 02:58:57 +0000, the renowned homesteader824
wrote:


I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2" drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power. Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a
shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? I saw something like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a
lot more than I want to spend. It seems there should be a cheaper
solution. I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the
shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.

Maybe you could drill out one of these Chinese couplers:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Jaw-Shaft-Co...em19d1c5 464a



Best regards,
Spehro Pefhany
--
"it's the network..." "The Journey is the reward"
Info for manufacturers: http://www.trexon.com
Embedded software/hardware/analog Info for designers: http://www.speff.com

On 6/10/2012 10:58 PM, homesteader824 wrote:
I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2" drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power. Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a
shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? I saw something like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a
lot more than I want to spend. It seems there should be a cheaper
solution. I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the
shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.


Well, unless you have a lathe or know someone with one that could turn
down your shaft, the shaft reducer for $60 is your best bet. Or get a
bigger drill.

On 6/10/2012 10:58 PM, homesteader824 wrote:
I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2" drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power. Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a
shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? I saw something like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a
lot more than I want to spend. It seems there should be a cheaper
solution. I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the
shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.



http://www.mcmaster.com/#61005K533

$36.21 clamp on shaft coupling. Then you just need a 1/2" shaft..

"homesteader824" wrote in
message ...

I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I
would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2"
drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power. Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a
shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? I saw something
like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for
it--a
lot more than I want to spend. It seems there should be a cheaper
solution. I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding
the
shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.
homesteader824

http://www.amazon.com/Grizzly-G5551-.../dp/B0000DD4B1
Some hardware stores have them.

A quick hardware-store solution would be to bolt together pulleys with
5/8" and 1/2" center holes. Clamp them concentric with a 1/2"
flat-head bolt. Axle bolts for replacement lawnmower wheels have a
1/2" shank with 3/8" threads that will chuck in a 3/8" drill.

Lovejoy couplers are better for continuous duty with serious loads.
http://homeroasters.org/php/forum/attachments/Lovejoys[280].jpg

Or you could use this problem to justify buying a metal lathe.

jsw

On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 02:58:57 +0000, homesteader824
wrote:


I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2" drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power. Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a
shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? I saw something like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a
lot more than I want to spend. It seems there should be a cheaper
solution. I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the
shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.

Find a friend with a machine shop (or just a lathe), and:

Turn a 1" diameter piece of steel rod down to 1/2" on one side for
about 3/4 of an inch.

Drill the center to 5/8" on the other end.

Drill and tap 3/8" in from the end of the 5/8" side for a set screw to
hold the 5/8" shaft.

Ream it to size and you're done in under half an hour.

--
Doctors prescribe medicine of which they know little,
to cure diseases of which they know less,
in human beings of which they know nothing.
--Francois-Marie Arouet Voltaire, about 250 years ago

"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

Find a friend with a machine shop (or just a lathe), and:

Turn a 1" diameter piece of steel rod down to 1/2" on one side for
about 3/4 of an inch.

Drill the center to 5/8" on the other end.

Drill and tap 3/8" in from the end of the 5/8" side for a set screw
to
hold the 5/8" shaft.

Ream it to size and you're done in under half an hour.

That's the r.c.m. answer that I would have used.

The zinc plated rod sold in hardware stores doesn't always machine too
well. I get a better finish with unplated 1018 CRS shafting from a
local industrial bearing supply company. Last week a 1" x 36" piece
cost me $18, 3/4" was $10.

jsw

On Jun 10, 10:58*pm, homesteader824
wrote:
*I saw something like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a
lot more than I want to spend. *It seems there should be a cheaper
solution.
homesteader824

Since you mentioned Grainger.................

Look at Lovejoy jaw couplings.


4x176 4x177 1x409 Total cost about $10.

Dan

Do you have a drill press, bench grinder, taps?

What is the most you would be comfortable spending?

You imply that the extractor was made to be hand cranked. Which means
fairly low crank speed which is geared up. Which means fairly high
torque on the crank. Yes?

On Jun 10, 9:58*pm, homesteader824
wrote:
I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. *I would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. *I have a 1/2" drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power. *Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a
shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? *I saw something like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a
lot more than I want to spend. *It seems there should be a cheaper
solution. *I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the
shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.

--
homesteader824

Many shafts have a center drill spot on the end of the shaft. If the
shaft isn't hardened and your technique is good, you might be able to
use the center spot to drill a hole into the shaft to tap and insert a
bolt or threaded stud.

On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 08:35:00 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

Find a friend with a machine shop (or just a lathe), and:

Turn a 1" diameter piece of steel rod down to 1/2" on one side for
about 3/4 of an inch.

Drill the center to 5/8" on the other end.

Drill and tap 3/8" in from the end of the 5/8" side for a set screw
to
hold the 5/8" shaft.

Ream it to size and you're done in under half an hour.

That's the r.c.m. answer that I would have used.

The zinc plated rod sold in hardware stores doesn't always machine too
well. I get a better finish with unplated 1018 CRS shafting from a
local industrial bearing supply company. Last week a 1" x 36" piece
cost me $18, 3/4" was $10.

The guy with the machine shop would surely have some scrap on hand
which would machine easily and work well. Hell, half my router is
made from such scrap. I only bought the 24' chunk of 3x4" steel tube
and the hardware. The local home improvement store got me for $33, a
box of 50 5mm x 20mm x 0.8 pitch allen head cap screws. I got a box
of 100 similar 5x16x0.8 screws from the local fastener supply for
$5.35. SASCO Rules!

--
Doctors prescribe medicine of which they know little,
to cure diseases of which they know less,
in human beings of which they know nothing.
--Francois-Marie Arouet Voltaire, about 250 years ago

homesteader824 wrote:
I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2" drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power. Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a
shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? I saw something like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a
lot more than I want to spend. It seems there should be a cheaper
solution. I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the
shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.





Go buy a cheap 5/8" drill bit with a stepped shaft that will fit the
1/2" drill. You can find one at HF or many other stores.
Now use your dremal to cut the fluted section off that drill. You will
also want 4 good worm style hose clamps and a section of reinforced
rubber hose with a 5/8" ID. Now place the hose over the drill bit and
the shaft and then apply the clamps. When you install the clamps place
them with the first two on the bit end 180 degrees apart so they stay
balanced, then the other two get applied at 90 degrees to those with the
screws 180 degrees apart as well. when you're done the screws will be
equally placed around the hose.

Larry Jaques wrote:
On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 08:35:00 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

Find a friend with a machine shop (or just a lathe), and:

Turn a 1" diameter piece of steel rod down to 1/2" on one side for
about 3/4 of an inch.

Drill the center to 5/8" on the other end.

Drill and tap 3/8" in from the end of the 5/8" side for a set screw
to
hold the 5/8" shaft.

Ream it to size and you're done in under half an hour.

That's the r.c.m. answer that I would have used.

The zinc plated rod sold in hardware stores doesn't always machine too
well. I get a better finish with unplated 1018 CRS shafting from a
local industrial bearing supply company. Last week a 1" x 36" piece
cost me $18, 3/4" was $10.


The guy with the machine shop would surely have some scrap on hand
which would machine easily and work well. Hell, half my router is
made from such scrap. I only bought the 24' chunk of 3x4" steel tube
and the hardware. The local home improvement store got me for $33, a
box of 50 5mm x 20mm x 0.8 pitch allen head cap screws. I got a box
of 100 similar 5x16x0.8 screws from the local fastener supply for
$5.35. SASCO Rules!


How prevalent are metric fasteners in the US these days. When I lived
there up till 1982 I don't recall seeing them at all.

--
Doctors prescribe medicine of which they know little,
to cure diseases of which they know less,
in human beings of which they know nothing.
--Francois-Marie Arouet Voltaire, about 250 years ago

David Billington fired this volley in
:

How prevalent are metric fasteners in the US these days. When I lived
there up till 1982 I don't recall seeing them at all.

Still not as common as Imperial sizes, but every hardware store sells
metric stuff now. All fastener outlets have almost all sizes in stock.

Let's face it, the American Car is _almost_ totally metricized now, so
that it can be manufactured anywhere. So there's a lot of need for
metric.

But David, in 1968 I bought a Fiat Spider (Boy! Was THAT a mistake), and
was able to pick up all the metric wrenches and fasteners I needed from
the local NAPA store -- even back then.

LLoyd

On Jun 11, 9:27*am, David Billington
wrote:

How prevalent are metric fasteners in the US these days. When I lived
there up till 1982 I don't recall seeing them at all.



Hardware stores stock a lot of metric stuff, may not have all the
thread pitches or head styles one might desire, though. Most of the
chain auto parts places will have at least a few of the more common
metric bolts and nuts, most have a section of drawers with more
specialized hardware. Plus metric wrenches and sockets are readily
available. What bugs me most is that even though it's a world
standard and much of this stuff is coming in from offshore, they STILL
charge a super-premium for metric fasteners. Should be cheaper than
SAE parts since they're made in more volume.

Stan

On Jun 11, 9:28*am, "Denis G." wrote:
On Jun 10, 9:58*pm, homesteader824

wrote:
I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. *I would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. *I have a 1/2" drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power. *Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a
shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? *I saw something like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a
lot more than I want to spend. *It seems there should be a cheaper
solution. *I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the
shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.

--
homesteader824

Many shafts have a center drill spot on the end of the shaft. *If the
shaft isn't hardened and your technique is good, you might be able to
use the center spot to drill a hole into the shaft to tap and insert a
bolt or threaded stud.

As another cheap solution, you could just slip a 5/8" deep socket with
a 3/8" drive over the shaft. If the shaft has a keyway, put a key in
to keep the socket from spinning

"David Billington" wrote

How prevalent are metric fasteners in the US these days. When I
lived there up till 1982 I don't recall seeing them at all.

Hardware stores around here have a decent selection of them in the
higher-priced drawers and blister paks, but maybe not in the cheaper
large bulk bins.

jsw

On 6/10/2012 10:58 PM, homesteader824 wrote:
I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2" drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power. Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a
shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? I saw something like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a
lot more than I want to spend. It seems there should be a cheaper
solution. I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the
shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.






http://www.caswellplating.com/buffin...ht-thread.html

On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 07:29:45 -0700, Larry Jaques
wrote:

On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 08:35:00 -0400, "Jim Wilkins"
wrote:


"Larry Jaques" wrote in message

Find a friend with a machine shop (or just a lathe), and:

Turn a 1" diameter piece of steel rod down to 1/2" on one side for
about 3/4 of an inch.

Drill the center to 5/8" on the other end.

Drill and tap 3/8" in from the end of the 5/8" side for a set screw
to
hold the 5/8" shaft.

Ream it to size and you're done in under half an hour.

That's the r.c.m. answer that I would have used.

The zinc plated rod sold in hardware stores doesn't always machine too
well. I get a better finish with unplated 1018 CRS shafting from a
local industrial bearing supply company. Last week a 1" x 36" piece
cost me $18, 3/4" was $10.

The guy with the machine shop would surely have some scrap on hand
which would machine easily and work well. Hell, half my router is
made from such scrap. I only bought the 24' chunk of 3x4" steel tube
and the hardware. The local home improvement store got me for $33, a
box of 50 5mm x 20mm x 0.8 pitch allen head cap screws. I got a box
of 100 similar 5x16x0.8 screws from the local fastener supply for
$5.35. SASCO Rules!
Grab a long joiner nut for 1/2" threaded rod and bore out one end for
5/8" shaft, drill one flat for set screw, and cut the head off a 1/2"
bolt to thread in the other end.

You can do it all with a drill press and a hack-saw (and a tap for the
set screw) in under half an hour. Use a bit of thread locker and/or
shaft/bearing mount if you are paranoid.

On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 10:45:09 -0400, "Steve W."
wrote:

homesteader824 wrote:
I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2" drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power. Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a
shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? I saw something like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a
lot more than I want to spend. It seems there should be a cheaper
solution. I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the
shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.





Go buy a cheap 5/8" drill bit with a stepped shaft that will fit the
1/2" drill.
Called a "silver and demmings" or "cheater" bit.

You can find one at HF or many other stores.
Now use your dremal to cut the fluted section off that drill. You will
also want 4 good worm style hose clamps and a section of reinforced
rubber hose with a 5/8" ID. Now place the hose over the drill bit and
the shaft and then apply the clamps. When you install the clamps place
them with the first two on the bit end 180 degrees apart so they stay
balanced, then the other two get applied at 90 degrees to those with the
screws 180 degrees apart as well. when you're done the screws will be
equally placed around the hose.

"homesteader824" wrote in message
...

I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2" drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power. Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a
shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? I saw something like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a
lot more than I want to spend. It seems there should be a cheaper
solution. I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the
shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.


Anybody with a lathe and some drills and taps could make you one.

My grandfather raised bees for many many years, and we spun the combs by
hand with no real effort. He had a good sized two panel extractor. It
never even occurred to us to motorize it. I suppose we might have tired of
it if he had hundreds of hives instead of just a few.

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com writes:


Let's face it, the American Car is _almost_ totally metricized now, so
that it can be manufactured anywhere. So there's a lot of need for
metric.

What is left in SAE?

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

On 6/11/2012 6:56 PM, David Lesher wrote:
"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh"lloydspinsidemindspring.com writes:


Let's face it, the American Car is _almost_ totally metricized now, so
that it can be manufactured anywhere. So there's a lot of need for
metric.

What is left in SAE?

Tire rim diameters for one. I've not checked the lug nuts,
specifically, recently...

--

dpb writes:

Let's face it, the American Car is _almost_ totally metricized now, so
that it can be manufactured anywhere. So there's a lot of need for
metric.

What is left in SAE?

Tire rim diameters for one. I've not checked the lug nuts,
specifically, recently...

AFAIK, tire sizes on all cars are some *******ized mix of SAE &
Metric. But they all follow the same spec.

One thing that is allegedly universal is the tire Schrader valves.
(If I can believe Click & Clack...)




--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 23:56:44 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:

"Lloyd E. Sponenburgh" lloydspinsidemindspring.com writes:


Let's face it, the American Car is _almost_ totally metricized now, so
that it can be manufactured anywhere. So there's a lot of need for
metric.

What is left in SAE?

According to my friend Glenn, the upper part of the Chebby intake
manifold which is aluminum is SAE, while the rest which goes to
plastic (carboniferous or otherwise) is metric. He's playing with his
daughter's new/used '07 GMC Yukon 4WD and _not_ loving it.

--
Doctors prescribe medicine of which they know little,
to cure diseases of which they know less,
in human beings of which they know nothing.
--Francois-Marie Arouet Voltaire, about 250 years ago

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Mon, 11 Jun 2012 19:02:18 +0800, "Dennis" wrote:


"homesteader824" wrote in message
...

I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2" drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power. Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a
shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? I saw something like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a
lot more than I want to spend. It seems there should be a cheaper
solution. I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the
shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.




--
homesteader824

Not knowing what "junk" you have available...

What about a piece of rubber hose or beverage tubing with a 5/8" id fitted
to the sht shaft & held tight with a clamp.

Then find something that will fit the drill & have a 5/8" od you can push
into the tube. Maybe a small socket on a hex drive adaptor or similar.
Maybe
a TEK screw drive bit (if you call them that where ever you are).


Or a simple brass plumbing fixture from HomeDespot.

http://fittingsandadapters.com/maleconnector1.html

Something like the above. Screw the fat end into the tube, secure with a
hose clamp, grab the small end with an electric drill.

Or find someone with a lathe who will make you an adapter (a 5 minute
job max) out of scrap

Gunner



Yeah, that'd work well.

On 2012-06-11, homesteader824 wrote:

I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2" drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power. Is there any piece of hardware designed to mount on a
shaft and have a smaller shaft coming out of it? I saw something like
what I needed at Grainger's website, but they wanted over $60 for it--a
lot more than I want to spend.

Probably a lot of precision in it to keep it from vibrating with
imbalance. That is (part of) what you are paying for.

It seems there should be a cheaper
solution. I was looking for a more elegant solution than grinding the
shaft down with my dremel tool. BTW, I don't have a welder.

From my point of view, not having a welder does not matter, as I
would not try to solve this with welding. It gets pretty tricky getting
everything lined up to start with, and welding likes to introduce
warpage anyway, which would put the axis of the new shaft extension not
quite in line with the shaft of the honey extractor.

My tool of choice for making a direct in-line step-down adaptor
would be a lathe.

Any idea what kind of speed step-up or step-down you got out of
that pulley arrangement? I would likely prefer pulleys anyway -- it
lets you find a place to mount the electric drill which does not have to
be in line with the shaft of the extractor.

Can you point to a web page which has an image of the honey
extractor -- just in case seeing it triggers other ideas. Things like
does the shaft stick out horizontally, vertically, at an angle, and how
far from an edge of the box (assuming that the shaft sticks out of an
enclosure). All of these things could impact just how you need to mount
the drill. (And the question which also comes to mind is how long a run
is required? If it is going to be multiple runs of an hour or more, you
will probably need to replace the brushes in the drill fairly quickly.
The drill is made for only short bursts of run time and lots of sitting
down cooling off.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 6/11/2012 9:23 PM, David Lesher wrote:
writes:

Let's face it, the American Car is _almost_ totally metricized now, so
that it can be manufactured anywhere. So there's a lot of need for
metric.

What is left in SAE?

Tire rim diameters for one. I've not checked the lug nuts,
specifically, recently...

AFAIK, tire sizes on all cars are some *******ized mix of SAE&
Metric. But they all follow the same spec.

My meter tells me the rims and tires are drawn/manufactured in metric to
meet the inch dimension specs for diameters; it's just the nominal
dimensions for them are still inches whereas afaik all the section data
for tread width, etc., has gone metric. (You don't find an old 6.70-15
nylon cord other than perhaps in the restoration catalog any longer. )

One thing that is allegedly universal is the tire Schrader valves.
(If I can believe Click& Clack...)

That is so at least in the US. Even the large ag tires use the same
valve stem dimensions so valve cores are interchangeable.

I don't know the thread sizes, though...so whether they are still SAE
(or ever were) I don't know (and didn't feel like looking up ).

--

dpb wrote:
On 6/11/2012 9:23 PM, David Lesher wrote:
writes:

Let's face it, the American Car is _almost_ totally metricized
now, so
that it can be manufactured anywhere. So there's a lot of need for
metric.

What is left in SAE?

Tire rim diameters for one. I've not checked the lug nuts,
specifically, recently...

AFAIK, tire sizes on all cars are some *******ized mix of SAE&
Metric. But they all follow the same spec.

My meter tells me the rims and tires are drawn/manufactured in metric
to meet the inch dimension specs for diameters; it's just the nominal
dimensions for them are still inches whereas afaik all the section
data for tread width, etc., has gone metric. (You don't find an old
6.70-15 nylon cord other than perhaps in the restoration catalog any
longer. )

One thing that is allegedly universal is the tire Schrader valves.
(If I can believe Click& Clack...)

That is so at least in the US. Even the large ag tires use the same
valve stem dimensions so valve cores are interchangeable.

I don't know the thread sizes, though...so whether they are still SAE
(or ever were) I don't know (and didn't feel like looking up ).

--
In the UK and I expect elsewhere in the world you can get solely metric
dimensioned tyres and even in the UK be sitting down when you get told
the price, often about 3 times that of a similar sized inch diameter tyre.

David Billington writes:

In the UK and I expect elsewhere in the world you can get solely metric
dimensioned tyres and even in the UK be sitting down when you get told
the price, often about 3 times that of a similar sized inch diameter tyre.

But we're talking the civilized world, not the island responsible
for B-L, Lucas electrics, and SU carbs & fuel pumps....

"Why use one part, when two will do the same job half as well?"

--
A host is a host from coast to
& no one will talk to a host that's close........[v].(301) 56-LINUX
Unless the host (that isn't close).........................pob 1433
is busy, hung or dead....................................20915-1433

On 6/12/2012 8:05 AM, dpb wrote:
....

... (You don't find an old 6.70-15
nylon cord other than perhaps in the restoration catalog any longer. )
....

On reflection, kinda' have to check on that one--I just got a set of
replacement 7.50-20 bias ply 8-ply rating for the front of the old C60
that keep around for a seed tender. ('58 283, 4-sp/2-sp axle, 14-ft
grain bed and hoist). The rears are 8.25-20 and also still available.
I presume if look long and hard enough, most common sizes are still at
least obtainable if not on the shelves at the local discount tire store.

--

David Lesher wrote:
David Billington writes:


In the UK and I expect elsewhere in the world you can get solely metric
dimensioned tyres and even in the UK be sitting down when you get told
the price, often about 3 times that of a similar sized inch diameter tyre.


But we're talking the civilized world, not the island responsible
for B-L, Lucas electrics, and SU carbs & fuel pumps....

"Why use one part, when two will do the same job half as well?"


Except none of the cars were British rather either French or German and
not on all models. I suppose the maker got a good deal to use the tyre
as OE and the few companies that made them cleaned up. I have heard of a
few cases where new wheels were purchased with tyres and came in cheaper
than just the OE spec tyres.

On Tue, 12 Jun 2012 14:56:51 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:

David Billington writes:

In the UK and I expect elsewhere in the world you can get solely metric
dimensioned tyres and even in the UK be sitting down when you get told
the price, often about 3 times that of a similar sized inch diameter tyre.

But we're talking the civilized world, not the island responsible
for B-L, Lucas electrics, and SU carbs & fuel pumps....

"Why use one part, when two will do the same job half as well?"
TRW had some metric specialty wheels, and Michelin made the tires
for them, on one of the small Mustang specials back in the eighties,
IIRC.

On Tue, 12 Jun 2012 18:16:11 -0400, wrote:

On Tue, 12 Jun 2012 14:56:51 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:

David Billington writes:

In the UK and I expect elsewhere in the world you can get solely metric
dimensioned tyres and even in the UK be sitting down when you get told
the price, often about 3 times that of a similar sized inch diameter tyre.

But we're talking the civilized world, not the island responsible
for B-L, Lucas electrics, and SU carbs & fuel pumps....

"Why use one part, when two will do the same job half as well?"
TRW had some metric specialty wheels, and Michelin made the tires
for them, on one of the small Mustang specials back in the eighties,
IIRC.
Sorry - wasn't TRW - it was Michelin TRX 390mm rims.

Thanks everyone for all the responses. The buffer adapter is what I had pictured in my mind, I just didn't know if they existed or what to call it. I have one ordered.

On Sunday, June 10, 2012 7:58:57 PM UTC-7, homesteader824 wrote:
I have a small honey extractor with a 5/8" shaft that spins. I would
like to turn this directly with an electric drill. I have a 1/2" drill
that I was able to jury rig a pulley to to run it, so I know it has
enough power.

The drill might have enough power, but it isn't intended to run for long
periods. It'll likely overheat.

Instead of using pulleys and the gears inside a drill, just couple a real
AC motor to the shaft; there's one in every junked furnace, dishwasher,
washing machine... and a rotisserie attachment for a grill or oven is
really a nice little gearmotor.

On Tuesday, June 12, 2012 3:16:11 PM UTC-7, Clare wrote:
On Tue, 12 Jun 2012 14:56:51 +0000 (UTC), David Lesher
wrote:

David Billington writes:

In the UK and I expect elsewhere in the world you can get solely metric
dimensioned tyres ...

TRW had some metric specialty wheels, and Michelin made the tires
for them, on one of the small Mustang specials back in the eighties,
IIRC.

And on my 1983 Thunderbird (probably Cougar as well). It was possible in
subsequent years to swap in similar wheels (from later model years) that took
tires that ARE still available.

Anybody want four nice alloy rims, that take NO available tire whatsoever?