PIcked it up at an estate sale for 35bucks. Came with a like new vise,
planer head, circle cutter & some cheapo saftey router bits + they
through in a wilton adjustable ball thingie that I've already mounted
on a plates to hold work whilst polishing. The machine is in nice
shape, no rust- runs good. The keyless chuck seems to run out slightly
though. Looks like its on a M/T? How do you pop those off? Pickle
spreader?
I want to make sure its not threaded before I start hammeringg
I cant seem to find anything on DP 400. By what OWWM.com has, its from
the 40's. It looks just like DP220's only smaller. About 5 1/2 in
swing. Must have not been that popular being so small?
I found Delta/Rockwell did make a newer DP 400 though.
Anyone know anything about this model?


Thanks

Gil

In article ,
cncmillgil wrote:

PIcked it up at an estate sale for 35bucks. Came with a like new vise,
planer head, circle cutter & some cheapo saftey router bits + they
through in a wilton adjustable ball thingie that I've already mounted
on a plates to hold work whilst polishing. The machine is in nice
shape, no rust- runs good. The keyless chuck seems to run out slightly
though. Looks like its on a M/T? How do you pop those off? Pickle
spreader?
I want to make sure its not threaded before I start hammeringg
I cant seem to find anything on DP 400. By what OWWM.com has, its from
the 40's. It looks just like DP220's only smaller. About 5 1/2 in
swing. Must have not been that popular being so small?
I found Delta/Rockwell did make a newer DP 400 though.
Anyone know anything about this model?

It appears to have a morse taper in the spindle. The parts breakdown below
shows the situation. You will need a morse taper wedge to pop the arbor out.
These wedges are common as dirt.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/del...s-c-3275_3279_
12674.html

Joe Gwinn

On Jul 17, 7:59*am, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,

*cncmillgil wrote:
PIcked it up at an estate sale for 35bucks. Came with a like new vise,
planer head, circle cutter & some cheapo saftey router bits + they
through in a wilton adjustable ball thingie that I've already mounted
on a plates to hold work whilst polishing. The machine is in nice
shape, no rust- runs good. The keyless chuck seems to run out slightly
though. Looks like its on a M/T? How do you pop those off? Pickle
spreader?
I want to make sure its not threaded before I start hammeringg
I cant seem to find anything on DP 400. By what OWWM.com has, its from
the 40's. It looks just like DP220's only smaller. About 5 1/2 in
swing. Must have not been that popular being so small?
I found Delta/Rockwell did make a newer DP 400 though.
Anyone know anything about this model?

It appears to have a morse taper in the spindle. *The parts breakdown below
shows the situation. *You will need a morse taper wedge to pop the arbor out. *
These wedges are common as dirt.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/del...-press-parts-c...
12674.html

Joe Gwinn

thanks, but that link is for the "new" DP400.
looking at the patent label, they are from the 30s!
Whats a good rust preventive to coat the unpainted surfaces?

Gil

In article ,
cncmillgil wrote:

On Jul 17, 7:59*am, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article
,

*cncmillgil wrote:
PIcked it up at an estate sale for 35bucks. Came with a like new vise,
planer head, circle cutter & some cheapo saftey router bits + they
through in a wilton adjustable ball thingie that I've already mounted
on a plates to hold work whilst polishing. The machine is in nice
shape, no rust- runs good. The keyless chuck seems to run out slightly
though. Looks like its on a M/T? How do you pop those off? Pickle
spreader?
I want to make sure its not threaded before I start hammeringg
I cant seem to find anything on DP 400. By what OWWM.com has, its from
the 40's. It looks just like DP220's only smaller. About 5 1/2 in
swing. Must have not been that popular being so small?
I found Delta/Rockwell did make a newer DP 400 though.
Anyone know anything about this model?

It appears to have a morse taper in the spindle. *The parts breakdown below
shows the situation. *You will need a morse taper wedge to pop the arbor
out. *
These wedges are common as dirt.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/del...-press-parts-c...
12674.html

Joe Gwinn

thanks, but that link is for the "new" DP400.
looking at the patent label, they are from the 30s!

Ahh. Are there patent numbers mentioned? If so, look them up, as the patent
drawings are often quite informative.


Whats a good rust preventive to coat the unpainted surfaces?

I assume that you mean for use, versus for storage. I use ordinary way oil.
Lanolin also works well.

Joe Gwinn

On 2010-07-17, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
cncmillgil wrote:

PIcked it up at an estate sale for 35bucks. Came with a like new vise,
planer head, circle cutter & some cheapo saftey router bits + they
through in a wilton adjustable ball thingie that I've already mounted
on a plates to hold work whilst polishing. The machine is in nice
shape, no rust- runs good. The keyless chuck seems to run out slightly
though. Looks like its on a M/T? How do you pop those off? Pickle
spreader?
I want to make sure its not threaded before I start hammeringg
I cant seem to find anything on DP 400. By what OWWM.com has, its from
the 40's. It looks just like DP220's only smaller. About 5 1/2 in
swing. Must have not been that popular being so small?
I found Delta/Rockwell did make a newer DP 400 though.
Anyone know anything about this model?

It appears to have a morse taper in the spindle. The parts breakdown below
shows the situation. You will need a morse taper wedge to pop the arbor out.
These wedges are common as dirt.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/del...s-c-3275_3279_
12674.html

Assuming that this is the same as your older one. Look in the
quill (part 72 in the exploded drawing) for the slot which the key is
pointing to. If you find it, rotate the chuck by hand to look for the
matching slot in the spindle (part 74 in the same drawing) and line them
up. Then place the wedge shaped Morse key (if you have it -- otherwise
make one) in there so it presses on the top of the slot in the spindle
and against the top end of the arbor (part 75) and tap it while holding
something the chuck with the other hand -- or put something softer than
metal (e.g. a pine 2x4) under it and move the table up so it can only
drop about 1/2" or so when it comes free.

Once you have that out, you then use the pair of pickle forks
for the specific Jacobs taper which holds the arbor in the chuck to
separate those parts. Then re-insert the arbor and check it for runout.
If it has runout, it has probably been bent and should be replaced. If
not, the runout is in the chuck.

It looks to be a Morse Taper 2 arbor -- and whatever Jacobs
taper is on the other end is a function of what that specific chuck
needs. The one illustrated (the "info" link does not bother saying
either what the Morse taper is or the Jacobs taper -- but looking at the
photo I think that you won't be able to use the pickle forks on this
particular combination -- at least without drilling a cross hole for a
pin and destroying the arbor.

Somewhere near the bottom of the drawing are two hex keys, which
show up as being metric -- so this is probably one of the Chinese or
Taiwanese made ones not too different from what I have (without the
brand name, however. :-)

Which kind of keyless chuck? An Albrecht should be very
precise. Some early designs of keyless chucks are terrible -- the kind
which used to be on hand held electric drills, or on eggbeater drills.
(Do they still make those things?)

And another consideration -- are you sure that it is runout, and
not simply that the quill is loose in the headstock casting? These
don't have a clamp to hold the quill extended -- which can also be used
to reduce free play, so they can be rather loose.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2010-07-17, cncmillgil wrote:

thanks, but that link is for the "new" DP400.
looking at the patent label, they are from the 30s!

O.K. Very different, with the same model number. :-)

Can you take some closeups of the bottom end of the quill with
the drill chuck and either put it on a web site and post links to it, or
post it to the dropbox (http://www.metalworking.com) with a matching
explanatory ".txt" file, and then post the URL and the filenames here?
Maybe we can figure it out from the photos.

Whats a good rust preventive to coat the unpainted surfaces?

Vactra No. 2 if you have it. (Lathe and mill Waylube.)

WD-40 is useless long term.

Maybe chainsaw bar/chain oil -- I've heard that it is as tacky
as Vactra No. 2.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On Jul 17, 6:32*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-07-17, Joseph Gwinn wrote:



In article ,
*cncmillgil wrote:

PIcked it up at an estate sale for 35bucks. Came with a like new vise,
planer head, circle cutter & some cheapo saftey router bits + they
through in a wilton adjustable ball thingie that I've already mounted
on a plates to hold work whilst polishing. The machine is in nice
shape, no rust- runs good. The keyless chuck seems to run out slightly
though. Looks like its on a M/T? How do you pop those off? Pickle
spreader?
I want to make sure its not threaded before I start hammeringg
I cant seem to find anything on DP 400. By what OWWM.com has, its from
the 40's. It looks just like DP220's only smaller. About 5 1/2 in
swing. Must have not been that popular being so small?
I found Delta/Rockwell did make a newer DP 400 though.
Anyone know anything about this model?

It appears to have a morse taper in the spindle. *The parts breakdown below
shows the situation. *You will need a morse taper wedge to pop the arbor out. *
These wedges are common as dirt.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/del...-press-parts-c....
12674.html

* * * * Assuming that this is the same as your older one. *Look in the
quill (part 72 in the exploded drawing) for the slot which the key is
pointing to. *If you find it, rotate the chuck by hand to look for the
matching slot in the spindle (part 74 in the same drawing) and line them
up. *Then place the wedge shaped Morse key (if you have it -- otherwise
make one) in there so it presses on the top of the slot in the spindle
and against the top end of the arbor (part 75) and tap it while holding
something the chuck with the other hand -- or put something softer than
metal (e.g. a pine 2x4) under it and move the table up so it can only
drop about 1/2" or so when it comes free.

* * * * Once you have that out, you then use the pair of pickle forks
for the specific Jacobs taper which holds the arbor in the chuck to
separate those parts. *Then re-insert the arbor and check it for runout..
If it has runout, it has probably been bent and should be replaced. *If
not, the runout is in the chuck.

* * * * It looks to be a Morse Taper 2 arbor -- and whatever Jacobs
taper is on the other end is a function of what that specific chuck
needs. *The one illustrated (the "info" link does not bother saying
either what the Morse taper is or the Jacobs taper -- but looking at the
photo I think that you won't be able to use the pickle forks on this
particular combination -- at least without drilling a cross hole for a
pin and destroying the arbor.

* * * * Somewhere near the bottom of the drawing are two hex keys, which
show up as being metric -- so this is probably one of the Chinese or
Taiwanese made ones not too different from what I have (without the
brand name, however. :-)

* * * * Which kind of keyless chuck? *An Albrecht should be very
precise. *Some early designs of keyless chucks are terrible -- the kind
which used to be on hand held electric drills, or on eggbeater drills.
(Do they still make those things?)

* * * * And another consideration -- are you sure that it is runout, and
not simply that the quill is loose in the headstock casting? *These
don't have a clamp to hold the quill extended -- which can also be used
to reduce free play, so they can be rather loose.

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

My mistake. Its a jacobs taper holding the chuck on the spindle. Had
a J/T M/T brain fartg
Can't find any markings on the keyless chuck. Probably screwed up
jaws? The OD of the chuck seems to run fine & the spindle is not
loose. It appears this machine did not have much use.
Just so happens theres one ebay just like mine, only that ones black.
Maybe older? Mine has a craftsman 1/3hp moter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=330451891996

Gil

On 2010-07-18, cncmillgil wrote:
On Jul 17, 6:32*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:

[ ... ]

* * * * Which kind of keyless chuck? *An Albrecht should be very
precise. *Some early designs of keyless chucks are terrible -- the kind
which used to be on hand held electric drills, or on eggbeater drills.
(Do they still make those things?)

* * * * And another consideration -- are you sure that it is runout, and
not simply that the quill is loose in the headstock casting? *These
don't have a clamp to hold the quill extended -- which can also be used
to reduce free play, so they can be rather loose.

[ ... ]

My mistake. Its a jacobs taper holding the chuck on the spindle. Had
a J/T M/T brain fartg

Most drill presses have both a MT (in the spindle) and a JT (at
the chuck end of the arbor), so both at the same time are possible.

However -- this looks very much like one which I saw at a
hamfest which had a Jacobs taper machined directly onto the end of the
spindle.

Except that the weight listed in the auction (about 100 lbs) is
much heavier than what I saw at the hamfest.

Can't find any markings on the keyless chuck. Probably screwed up
jaws?

Does the chuck look like the one shown in the last photo in the
auction you pointed to below? If so -- runout is a way of life with
those. The jaws are spaced by compression springs in holes drilled in
the meeting faces of the jaws. It does not take long before one of the
springs gets warped, and forces two jaws farther apart, leaving an
off-center grip for the drill bit.

Also -- some of that sort are tightened by screwing onto a
threaded shaft -- but you could tell that by adjusting the chuck to
maximum size. If you don't see threads above the chuck body, it is
likely a Jacobs taper -- and the pickle fork pairs are called into
service.

Anyway -- the suggestion of a loose qull in the headstock is
eliminated by the photos here -- this has the split headstock with the
clamp bolt to lock the quill at a given extension.

The OD of the chuck seems to run fine & the spindle is not
loose. It appears this machine did not have much use.
Just so happens theres one ebay just like mine, only that ones black.

What color is yours? Black was common for a *long* time.

Or is it possible that yours was repainted? Check around the
edges of the badge on the front belt guard for traces of paint applied
after the badge was installed.

Sometimes, shops painted all of their tools the same color for
whatever reason.

Maybe older? Mine has a craftsman 1/3hp moter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=330451891996

Maybe. The motor shown here is a 1/3 HP one as well. Pity that
the serial number is partially covered with grease, so you can't compare
them, assuming they are the same maker and model number. The one shown
is certainly an old one.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

In article ,
cncmillgil wrote:

On Jul 17, 6:32*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-07-17, Joseph Gwinn wrote:



In article
,
*cncmillgil wrote:

PIcked it up at an estate sale for 35bucks. Came with a like new vise,
planer head, circle cutter & some cheapo saftey router bits + they
through in a wilton adjustable ball thingie that I've already mounted
on a plates to hold work whilst polishing. The machine is in nice
shape, no rust- runs good. The keyless chuck seems to run out slightly
though. Looks like its on a M/T? How do you pop those off? Pickle
spreader?
I want to make sure its not threaded before I start hammeringg
I cant seem to find anything on DP 400. By what OWWM.com has, its from
the 40's. It looks just like DP220's only smaller. About 5 1/2 in
swing. Must have not been that popular being so small?
I found Delta/Rockwell did make a newer DP 400 though.
Anyone know anything about this model?

It appears to have a morse taper in the spindle. *The parts breakdown
below
shows the situation. *You will need a morse taper wedge to pop the arbor
out. *
These wedges are common as dirt.

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/del...-press-parts-c...
12674.html

* * * * Assuming that this is the same as your older one. *Look in the
quill (part 72 in the exploded drawing) for the slot which the key is
pointing to. *If you find it, rotate the chuck by hand to look for the
matching slot in the spindle (part 74 in the same drawing) and line them
up. *Then place the wedge shaped Morse key (if you have it -- otherwise
make one) in there so it presses on the top of the slot in the spindle
and against the top end of the arbor (part 75) and tap it while holding
something the chuck with the other hand -- or put something softer than
metal (e.g. a pine 2x4) under it and move the table up so it can only
drop about 1/2" or so when it comes free.

* * * * Once you have that out, you then use the pair of pickle forks
for the specific Jacobs taper which holds the arbor in the chuck to
separate those parts. *Then re-insert the arbor and check it for runout.
If it has runout, it has probably been bent and should be replaced. *If
not, the runout is in the chuck.

* * * * It looks to be a Morse Taper 2 arbor -- and whatever Jacobs
taper is on the other end is a function of what that specific chuck
needs. *The one illustrated (the "info" link does not bother saying
either what the Morse taper is or the Jacobs taper -- but looking at the
photo I think that you won't be able to use the pickle forks on this
particular combination -- at least without drilling a cross hole for a
pin and destroying the arbor.

* * * * Somewhere near the bottom of the drawing are two hex keys, which
show up as being metric -- so this is probably one of the Chinese or
Taiwanese made ones not too different from what I have (without the
brand name, however. :-)

* * * * Which kind of keyless chuck? *An Albrecht should be very
precise. *Some early designs of keyless chucks are terrible -- the kind
which used to be on hand held electric drills, or on eggbeater drills.
(Do they still make those things?)

* * * * And another consideration -- are you sure that it is runout, and
not simply that the quill is loose in the headstock casting? *These
don't have a clamp to hold the quill extended -- which can also be used
to reduce free play, so they can be rather loose.

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C.
|http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

My mistake. Its a jacobs taper holding the chuck on the spindle. Had
a J/T M/T brain fartg
Can't find any markings on the keyless chuck. Probably screwed up
jaws? The OD of the chuck seems to run fine & the spindle is not
loose. It appears this machine did not have much use.
Just so happens theres one ebay just like mine, only that ones black.
Maybe older? Mine has a craftsman 1/3hp moter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=330451891996

I saw one of these at a used tool place. If I recall, the spindle ended in a
JT33 taper. If so, or any of the Jacobs tapers, the Jacobs pickle forks will
work

Joe Gwinn

On Jul 17, 9:10*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-07-18, cncmillgil wrote:

On Jul 17, 6:32*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:

* * * * [ ... ]

* * * * Which kind of keyless chuck? *An Albrecht should be very
precise. *Some early designs of keyless chucks are terrible -- the kind
which used to be on hand held electric drills, or on eggbeater drills.
(Do they still make those things?)

* * * * And another consideration -- are you sure that it is runout, and
not simply that the quill is loose in the headstock casting? *These
don't have a clamp to hold the quill extended -- which can also be used
to reduce free play, so they can be rather loose.

* * * * [ ... ]

My mistake. *Its a jacobs taper holding the chuck on the spindle. Had
a J/T M/T brain fartg

* * * * Most drill presses have both a MT (in the spindle) and a JT (at
the chuck end of the arbor), so both at the same time are possible.

* * * * However -- this looks very much like one which I saw at a
hamfest which had a Jacobs taper machined directly onto the end of the
spindle.

* * * * Except that the weight listed in the auction (about 100 lbs) is
much heavier than what I saw at the hamfest.

Can't find any markings on the keyless chuck. Probably screwed up
jaws?

* * * * Does the chuck look like the one shown in the last photo in the
auction you pointed to below? *If so -- runout is a way of life with
those. *The jaws are spaced by compression springs in holes drilled in
the meeting faces of the jaws. *It does not take long before one of the
springs gets warped, and forces two jaws farther apart, leaving an
off-center grip for the drill bit.

* * * * Also -- some of that sort are tightened by screwing onto a
threaded shaft -- but you could tell that by adjusting the chuck to
maximum size. *If you don't see threads above the chuck body, it is
likely a Jacobs taper -- and the pickle fork pairs are called into
service.

* * * * Anyway -- the suggestion of a loose qull in the headstock is
eliminated by the photos here -- this has the split headstock with the
clamp bolt to lock the quill at a given extension.

* * * The OD of the chuck seems to run fine & the spindle is not
loose. It appears this machine did not have much use.
Just so happens theres one ebay just like mine, only that ones black.

* * * * What color is yours? *Black was common for a *long* time.

* * * * Or is it possible that yours was repainted? *Check around the
edges of the badge on the front belt guard for traces of paint applied
after the badge was installed.

* * * * Sometimes, shops painted all of their tools the same color for
whatever reason.

Maybe older? Mine has a craftsman 1/3hp moter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=330451891996

* * * * Maybe. *The motor shown here is a 1/3 HP one as well. *Pity that
the serial number is partially covered with grease, so you can't compare
them, assuming they are the same maker and model number. *The one shown
is certainly an old one.

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Mine is gray. Its original paint - no over spray inside or out. Its S/
N tag is the red one listed he
http://wiki.owwm.com/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx
Its the Delta name plate on the front pully cover thats different.
So whos older? gray or black? I think black as I think backg

Gil

On Jul 17, 6:29*am, cncmillgil wrote:
PIcked it up at an estate sale for 35bucks. Came with a like new vise,
planer head, circle cutter & some cheapo saftey router bits + they
through in a wilton adjustable ball thingie that I've already mounted
on a plates to hold work whilst polishing. The machine is in nice
shape, no rust- runs good. The keyless chuck seems to run out slightly
though. Looks like its on a M/T? How do you pop those off? Pickle
spreader?
I want to make sure its not threaded before I start hammeringg
I cant seem to find anything on DP 400. By what OWWM.com has, its from
the 40's. It looks just like DP220's only smaller. About 5 1/2 in
swing. Must have not been that popular being so small?
I found Delta/Rockwell did make a newer DP 400 though.
Anyone know anything about this model?

Thanks

Gil

The really OLD Deltas had a splined adapter. They had various
adapters depending on what the custormer wanted, even a MT socket that
stuck out a mile. Usually supplied with a JT taper for chucks. A snap
ring at the bottom of the spindle retained the adapter. You remove
chucks from the JT using special forked wedges, MSC used to carry
them. Used in pairs. This was with the floor-sized machines, I've no
idea what your particular model has. Probably a JT33 machined on the
spindle stub.

Stan

On Jul 18, 12:39*pm, cncmillgil wrote:
On Jul 17, 9:10*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:



On 2010-07-18, cncmillgil wrote:

On Jul 17, 6:32*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:

* * * * [ ... ]

* * * * Which kind of keyless chuck? *An Albrecht should be very
precise. *Some early designs of keyless chucks are terrible -- the kind
which used to be on hand held electric drills, or on eggbeater drills.
(Do they still make those things?)

* * * * And another consideration -- are you sure that it is runout, and
not simply that the quill is loose in the headstock casting? *These
don't have a clamp to hold the quill extended -- which can also be used
to reduce free play, so they can be rather loose.

* * * * [ ... ]

My mistake. *Its a jacobs taper holding the chuck on the spindle. Had
a J/T M/T brain fartg

* * * * Most drill presses have both a MT (in the spindle) and a JT (at
the chuck end of the arbor), so both at the same time are possible.

* * * * However -- this looks very much like one which I saw at a
hamfest which had a Jacobs taper machined directly onto the end of the
spindle.

* * * * Except that the weight listed in the auction (about 100 lbs) is
much heavier than what I saw at the hamfest.

Can't find any markings on the keyless chuck. Probably screwed up
jaws?

* * * * Does the chuck look like the one shown in the last photo in the
auction you pointed to below? *If so -- runout is a way of life with
those. *The jaws are spaced by compression springs in holes drilled in
the meeting faces of the jaws. *It does not take long before one of the
springs gets warped, and forces two jaws farther apart, leaving an
off-center grip for the drill bit.

* * * * Also -- some of that sort are tightened by screwing onto a
threaded shaft -- but you could tell that by adjusting the chuck to
maximum size. *If you don't see threads above the chuck body, it is
likely a Jacobs taper -- and the pickle fork pairs are called into
service.

* * * * Anyway -- the suggestion of a loose qull in the headstock is
eliminated by the photos here -- this has the split headstock with the
clamp bolt to lock the quill at a given extension.

* * * The OD of the chuck seems to run fine & the spindle is not
loose. It appears this machine did not have much use.
Just so happens theres one ebay just like mine, only that ones black.

* * * * What color is yours? *Black was common for a *long* time.

* * * * Or is it possible that yours was repainted? *Check around the
edges of the badge on the front belt guard for traces of paint applied
after the badge was installed.

* * * * Sometimes, shops painted all of their tools the same color for
whatever reason.

Maybe older? Mine has a craftsman 1/3hp moter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=330451891996

* * * * Maybe. *The motor shown here is a 1/3 HP one as well. *Pity that
the serial number is partially covered with grease, so you can't compare
them, assuming they are the same maker and model number. *The one shown
is certainly an old one.

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Mine is gray. Its original paint - no over spray inside or out. Its S/
N tag is the red one listed hehttp://wiki.owwm.com/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx
Its the Delta name plate on the front pully cover thats different.
So whos older? gray or black? I think black as I think backg

Gil

Ok I'm bored & in clean & restore old iron mode.
Whats a good brand of machine enamel for the Delta (gray)
Someone spilled paint all over the base(painted areas only) prolly
20-30 years ago.
I will meada blast it down to bear & repaint only sliding table &
base.
The head is original & nice - only a saw - dusting & cleaning needed.
have to check out H/F for a JT pickel forks for chuck removal.

"cncmillgil" wrote in message
...
On Jul 18, 12:39 pm, cncmillgil wrote:
Ok I'm bored & in clean & restore old iron mode.
Whats a good brand of machine enamel for the Delta (gray)
Someone spilled paint all over the base(painted areas only) prolly
20-30 years ago.
I will meada blast it down to bear & repaint only sliding table &
base.
The head is original & nice - only a saw - dusting & cleaning needed.
have to check out H/F for a JT pickel forks for chuck removal.


personally, I use Imron for painting machinery, it is very rugged and
resistant to solvents, coolant, and abrasion. There is a thread on paint on
the OWWM site that you may find helpful

On 2010-07-24, Bill Noble wrote:


"cncmillgil" wrote in message
...
On Jul 18, 12:39 pm, cncmillgil wrote:
Ok I'm bored & in clean & restore old iron mode.
Whats a good brand of machine enamel for the Delta (gray)
Someone spilled paint all over the base(painted areas only) prolly
20-30 years ago.
I will meada blast it down to bear & repaint only sliding table &
base.
The head is original & nice - only a saw - dusting & cleaning needed.
have to check out H/F for a JT pickel forks for chuck removal.


personally, I use Imron for painting machinery, it is very rugged and
resistant to solvents, coolant, and abrasion. There is a thread on paint on
the OWWM site that you may find helpful

Any clue what the OWWM site happens to be? A full URL? What it
means? (I guess that I could do a Google search, but it probably
matches more than one thing.)

Not that it matters to me -- I didn't ask the question.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 25 Jul 2010 01:30:58 GMT, "DoN. Nichols"
wrote the following:

On 2010-07-24, Bill Noble wrote:


"cncmillgil" wrote in message
...
On Jul 18, 12:39 pm, cncmillgil wrote:
Ok I'm bored & in clean & restore old iron mode.
Whats a good brand of machine enamel for the Delta (gray)
Someone spilled paint all over the base(painted areas only) prolly
20-30 years ago.
I will meada blast it down to bear & repaint only sliding table &
base.
The head is original & nice - only a saw - dusting & cleaning needed.
have to check out H/F for a JT pickel forks for chuck removal.


personally, I use Imron for painting machinery, it is very rugged and
resistant to solvents, coolant, and abrasion. There is a thread on paint on
the OWWM site that you may find helpful

I used Homey's Despot brand of alkyd paint for Dina (my old tablesaur)
and it has held up well for a decade. I think it was $7/qt.


Any clue what the OWWM site happens to be? A full URL? What it
means? (I guess that I could do a Google search, but it probably
matches more than one thing.)

Type "owwm" in the browser window and it magically brings up
"http://www.owwm.com", Don. _Amazing_, huh?


Not that it matters to me -- I didn't ask the question.

When in doubt or curiosity, try the simplest thing first, even if you
didn't ask the question and it doesn't matter much. g

--
It is pretty hard to tell what does bring happiness;
poverty and wealth have both failed.
-- Kin Hubbard

On Jul 24, 9:53*am, cncmillgil wrote:
On Jul 18, 12:39*pm, cncmillgil wrote:





On Jul 17, 9:10*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:

On 2010-07-18, cncmillgil wrote:

On Jul 17, 6:32*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:

* * * * [ ... ]

* * * * Which kind of keyless chuck? *An Albrecht should be very
precise. *Some early designs of keyless chucks are terrible -- the kind
which used to be on hand held electric drills, or on eggbeater drills.
(Do they still make those things?)

* * * * And another consideration -- are you sure that it is runout, and
not simply that the quill is loose in the headstock casting? *These
don't have a clamp to hold the quill extended -- which can also be used
to reduce free play, so they can be rather loose.

* * * * [ ... ]

My mistake. *Its a jacobs taper holding the chuck on the spindle. Had
a J/T M/T brain fartg

* * * * Most drill presses have both a MT (in the spindle) and a JT (at
the chuck end of the arbor), so both at the same time are possible.

* * * * However -- this looks very much like one which I saw at a
hamfest which had a Jacobs taper machined directly onto the end of the
spindle.

* * * * Except that the weight listed in the auction (about 100 lbs) is
much heavier than what I saw at the hamfest.

Can't find any markings on the keyless chuck. Probably screwed up
jaws?

* * * * Does the chuck look like the one shown in the last photo in the
auction you pointed to below? *If so -- runout is a way of life with
those. *The jaws are spaced by compression springs in holes drilled in
the meeting faces of the jaws. *It does not take long before one of the
springs gets warped, and forces two jaws farther apart, leaving an
off-center grip for the drill bit.

* * * * Also -- some of that sort are tightened by screwing onto a
threaded shaft -- but you could tell that by adjusting the chuck to
maximum size. *If you don't see threads above the chuck body, it is
likely a Jacobs taper -- and the pickle fork pairs are called into
service.

* * * * Anyway -- the suggestion of a loose qull in the headstock is
eliminated by the photos here -- this has the split headstock with the
clamp bolt to lock the quill at a given extension.

* * * The OD of the chuck seems to run fine & the spindle is not
loose. It appears this machine did not have much use.
Just so happens theres one ebay just like mine, only that ones black.

* * * * What color is yours? *Black was common for a *long* time.

* * * * Or is it possible that yours was repainted? *Check around the
edges of the badge on the front belt guard for traces of paint applied
after the badge was installed.

* * * * Sometimes, shops painted all of their tools the same color for
whatever reason.

Maybe older? Mine has a craftsman 1/3hp moter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=330451891996

* * * * Maybe. *The motor shown here is a 1/3 HP one as well. *Pity that
the serial number is partially covered with grease, so you can't compare
them, assuming they are the same maker and model number. *The one shown
is certainly an old one.

* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.

--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

Mine is gray. Its original paint - no over spray inside or out. Its S/
N tag is the red one listed hehttp://wiki.owwm.com/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx
Its the Delta name plate on the front pully cover thats different.
So whos older? gray or black? I think black as I think backg

Gil

Ok I'm bored & in clean & restore old iron mode.
Whats a good brand of machine enamel for the Delta (gray)
Someone spilled paint all over the base(painted areas only) prolly
20-30 years ago.
I will meada blast it down to bear & repaint only sliding table &
base.
*The head is original & nice - only a saw - dusting & cleaning needed.
have to check out H/F for a JT pickel forks for chuck removal.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Good luck with HF, have seen a few oddball things there, but not those
wedges. Here's the MSC catalog page, upper right:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF...0&PMT4TP=*LTIP

They're wedges, NOT an automotive pickle fork.

Stan

On 2010-07-26, wrote:
On Jul 24, 9:53*am, cncmillgil wrote:

[ ... ]

Ok I'm bored & in clean & restore old iron mode.
Whats a good brand of machine enamel for the Delta (gray)
Someone spilled paint all over the base(painted areas only) prolly
20-30 years ago.
I will meada blast it down to bear & repaint only sliding table &
base.
*The head is original & nice - only a saw - dusting & cleaning needed.
have to check out H/F for a JT pickel forks for chuck removal.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Good luck with HF, have seen a few oddball things there, but not those
wedges. Here's the MSC catalog page, upper right:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNPDFF...0&PMT4TP=*LTIP

They're wedges, NOT an automotive pickle fork.

They do seem to be referred to as pickle forks anyway. :-)

And they *are* forked to pass either side of the taper.

Note that there are four different sets (IIRC) for different
sizes of Jacobs taper -- and some tapers require one fork from each of
two different sets. So -- until you know what the taper is, you may or
may not be able to figure out which set you need.

Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Remove oil spill source from e-mail
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---