On Jul 17, 6:32*pm, "DoN. Nichols" wrote:
On 2010-07-17, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
In article ,
*cncmillgil wrote:
PIcked it up at an estate sale for 35bucks. Came with a like new vise,
planer head, circle cutter & some cheapo saftey router bits + they
through in a wilton adjustable ball thingie that I've already mounted
on a plates to hold work whilst polishing. The machine is in nice
shape, no rust- runs good. The keyless chuck seems to run out slightly
though. Looks like its on a M/T? How do you pop those off? Pickle
spreader?
I want to make sure its not threaded before I start hammeringg
I cant seem to find anything on DP 400. By what OWWM.com has, its from
the 40's. It looks just like DP220's only smaller. About 5 1/2 in
swing. Must have not been that popular being so small?
I found Delta/Rockwell did make a newer DP 400 though.
Anyone know anything about this model?
It appears to have a morse taper in the spindle. *The parts breakdown below
shows the situation. *You will need a morse taper wedge to pop the arbor out. *
These wedges are common as dirt.
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/del...-press-parts-c....
12674.html
* * * * Assuming that this is the same as your older one. *Look in the
quill (part 72 in the exploded drawing) for the slot which the key is
pointing to. *If you find it, rotate the chuck by hand to look for the
matching slot in the spindle (part 74 in the same drawing) and line them
up. *Then place the wedge shaped Morse key (if you have it -- otherwise
make one) in there so it presses on the top of the slot in the spindle
and against the top end of the arbor (part 75) and tap it while holding
something the chuck with the other hand -- or put something softer than
metal (e.g. a pine 2x4) under it and move the table up so it can only
drop about 1/2" or so when it comes free.
* * * * Once you have that out, you then use the pair of pickle forks
for the specific Jacobs taper which holds the arbor in the chuck to
separate those parts. *Then re-insert the arbor and check it for runout..
If it has runout, it has probably been bent and should be replaced. *If
not, the runout is in the chuck.
* * * * It looks to be a Morse Taper 2 arbor -- and whatever Jacobs
taper is on the other end is a function of what that specific chuck
needs. *The one illustrated (the "info" link does not bother saying
either what the Morse taper is or the Jacobs taper -- but looking at the
photo I think that you won't be able to use the pickle forks on this
particular combination -- at least without drilling a cross hole for a
pin and destroying the arbor.
* * * * Somewhere near the bottom of the drawing are two hex keys, which
show up as being metric -- so this is probably one of the Chinese or
Taiwanese made ones not too different from what I have (without the
brand name, however. :-)
* * * * Which kind of keyless chuck? *An Albrecht should be very
precise. *Some early designs of keyless chucks are terrible -- the kind
which used to be on hand held electric drills, or on eggbeater drills.
(Do they still make those things?)
* * * * And another consideration -- are you sure that it is runout, and
not simply that the quill is loose in the headstock casting? *These
don't have a clamp to hold the quill extended -- which can also be used
to reduce free play, so they can be rather loose.
* * * * Good Luck,
* * * * * * * * DoN.
--
*Email: * * | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
* * * * (too) near Washington D.C. |http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
* * * * * *--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---
My mistake. Its a jacobs taper holding the chuck on the spindle. Had
a J/T M/T brain fartg
Can't find any markings on the keyless chuck. Probably screwed up
jaws? The OD of the chuck seems to run fine & the spindle is not
loose. It appears this machine did not have much use.
Just so happens theres one ebay just like mine, only that ones black.
Maybe older? Mine has a craftsman 1/3hp moter.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...m=330451891996
Gil