It took me 2 hours to unload it from my trailer and to put it in its
intended place. Lack of forklift or suitable crane hampered the
progress a little bit. My kids (8 and 4) helped a little bit.

Pictures are he

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-At-My-Garage/

includes picture of what I think is a taper attachment.

The pictures do not show the four jaw chuck and two buckets of
misc tooling.

I already know one issue with this lathe (besides being dirty), which
I want to discuss separately. It is not without problems, though, I
hope, they are solvable.

i

"Ignoramus5493" wrote in message
...
It took me 2 hours to unload it from my trailer and to put it in its
intended place. Lack of forklift or suitable crane hampered the
progress a little bit. My kids (8 and 4) helped a little bit.

Pictures are he

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-At-My-Garage/

includes picture of what I think is a taper attachment.

The pictures do not show the four jaw chuck and two buckets of
misc tooling.

I already know one issue with this lathe (besides being dirty), which
I want to discuss separately. It is not without problems, though, I
hope, they are solvable.

i

Your gonna need a couple of gallons of evapo rust, i got 2 gallons at
harbor frieght on friday its on sale for $17.99 gal.

Best Regards
Tom.

On 2010-01-19, azotic wrote:

Your gonna need a couple of gallons of evapo rust, i got 2 gallons at
harbor frieght on friday its on sale for $17.99 gal.


Tom, I think that I will first try to clean it with a brass brush and
some kerosene. Once I get the gunk off, I will definitely use
Evapo-Rust or some such.

i

a need a couple of gallons of evapo rust, i got 2 gallons at
harbor frieght on friday its on sale for $17.99 gal.

Best Regards
Tom.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Does the rust stuff really work?

Bob AZ

On Mon, 18 Jan 2010 19:49:51 -0600, Ignoramus5493
wrote:

It took me 2 hours to unload it from my trailer and to put it in its
intended place. Lack of forklift or suitable crane hampered the
progress a little bit. My kids (8 and 4) helped a little bit.

Pictures are he

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-At-My-Garage/

includes picture of what I think is a taper attachment.

The pictures do not show the four jaw chuck and two buckets of
misc tooling.

I already know one issue with this lathe (besides being dirty), which
I want to discuss separately. It is not without problems, though, I
hope, they are solvable.

i
It's definitely a taper attachment. There may be some stuff missing,
hopefully in your parts buckets. I'd expect some sort of cover for
the cross slide dovetail and a clamp to lock the taper attachment to
the lathe bed way during use. Maybe someone has a parts diagram.

I hope it cleans up and runs nice for you.

Pete Keillor

On Jan 19, 7:51*am, Pete Keillor wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jan 2010 19:49:51 -0600, Ignoramus5493



wrote:
It took me 2 hours to unload it from my trailer and to put it in its
intended place. Lack of forklift or suitable crane hampered the
progress a little bit. My kids (8 and 4) helped a little bit.

Pictures are he

*http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-At-My-Garage/

includes picture of what I think is a taper attachment.

The pictures do not show the four jaw chuck and two buckets of
misc tooling.

I already know one issue with this lathe (besides being dirty), which
I want to discuss separately. It is not without problems, though, I
hope, they are solvable.

i

It's definitely a taper attachment. *There may be some stuff missing,
hopefully in your parts buckets. *I'd expect some sort of cover for
the cross slide dovetail and a clamp to lock the taper attachment to
the lathe bed way during use. *Maybe someone has a parts diagram.

I hope it cleans up and runs nice for you.

Pete Keillor

Iggy:

I have 2 Clausing 5913's (which are very similar to your 6913). I can
provide you with a parts diagram, to get an idea as to what is missing
from your machine.

They are excellent machines. And with the Flame Hardened beds, they
are pretty resistant to wear.

_kevin

On 2010-01-19, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus8727 wrote:

On 2010-01-19, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus8727 wrote:

Kevin, the bed, indeed, looks decent to me. I will make some test cuts
and then I will know a little bit more. I am now looking at the
hydraulics issues. I posted a message to PM and clausing list. The
issue is that there is no oil in the hydraulic system, and the speed
control handle springs back when turned, with no effect on the lathe
speed.

I noticed you have the new type slave cylinder on your varidrive. That is a good thing.

Wes, just curious, what is good about it?

As to the varidrive issues, two people replied and told me what to do
to bleed the system and fill it with oil. The procedure is to run the
motor, then turn the varidrive handle a little beyond where it
normally stops. This opens up a passage for oil to fill the hydraulic
system. It should take some time to accomplish, but this is my plan
for tonight.

i


Bleeding shouldn't take long if your system is intact.

Here is a sorta exploded picture of mine.

http://www.garage-machinist.com/usenet/rcm/master.jpg

The white circle is a gasket stuck to the master cylinder body. It is a bleed point.
Threre should be a screw in it right now on yours.

I think that my cylinder is different and there is no such thing on
mine. Maybe I am wrong.

If you look to the left of the aluminum piston with a lip seal, you
will see a pin protruding. When you run the varidrive handwheel in
the non presurising direction, that pin opens a passage in the
piston.

Makes sense.


As to why the twin piston system is better. Well, there are a lot of leak points in mine.
See below.
http://www.garage-machinist.com/usenet/rcm/slave1.jpg
http://www.garage-machinist.com/usenet/rcm/slave2.jpg
http://www.garage-machinist.com/usenet/rcm/slave3.jpg

Wes

OK... But mine might leak too, after all, how come it is full of air
in the lines. We'll see.

i

Ignoramus8727 wrote:

Bleeding shouldn't take long if your system is intact.

Here is a sorta exploded picture of mine.

http://www.garage-machinist.com/usenet/rcm/master.jpg

The white circle is a gasket stuck to the master cylinder body. It is a bleed point.
Threre should be a screw in it right now on yours.

I think that my cylinder is different and there is no such thing on
mine. Maybe I am wrong.

You are right.
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-0013.jpg.html

That master cylinder looks different.



If you look to the left of the aluminum piston with a lip seal, you
will see a pin protruding. When you run the varidrive handwheel in
the non presurising direction, that pin opens a passage in the
piston.

Makes sense.


As to why the twin piston system is better. Well, there are a lot of leak points in mine.
See below.
http://www.garage-machinist.com/usenet/rcm/slave1.jpg
http://www.garage-machinist.com/usenet/rcm/slave2.jpg
http://www.garage-machinist.com/usenet/rcm/slave3.jpg

Wes

OK... But mine might leak too, after all, how come it is full of air
in the lines. We'll see.

Likely you have seals that have hardened up. McMaster has them. Should be easy stuff to
repair. Take pictures as you pull it apart but you know that.

Those handles sticking out at 180 degrees on your compound are going to be irritating. I
tried to unscrew one of mine but it would not let go. I was about to cut it off but I
relented for now.

As to derusting, a bit of oil a green scotchbrite pad (red if you want to be more
aggressive) and it should clean up pretty nice.

Check oil levels in headstock, QC gearbox, and apron. You will need a pump oiler to oil
the carriage via the ball oilers. I couldn't get one that fit so I ground down the end of
the oil nozzle until I got a good fit.

Not sure of belt wear, you don't want the varidrive belt to drop down and rub on the green
coating on your varidrive.

Oh yes, check the felts when you get time.

I'm envious about that taper attachment.

I sure hope this turns out to be a good deal for you. I have my fingers crossed.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On 2010-01-19, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus8727 wrote:

Bleeding shouldn't take long if your system is intact.

Here is a sorta exploded picture of mine.

http://www.garage-machinist.com/usenet/rcm/master.jpg

The white circle is a gasket stuck to the master cylinder body. It is a bleed point.
Threre should be a screw in it right now on yours.

I think that my cylinder is different and there is no such thing on
mine. Maybe I am wrong.

You are right.
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-0013.jpg.html

That master cylinder looks different.


Yes, indeed. My lathe was made on Dec 21, 1966.

OB
OK... But mine might leak too, after all, how come it is full of air
in the lines. We'll see.

Likely you have seals that have hardened up. McMaster has them.
Should be easy stuff to repair. Take pictures as you pull it apart
but you know that.

I will try first to bleed air from the lines and I will then see how
quickly they leak. If they leak too much, new seals will be the way to
go.

Those handles sticking out at 180 degrees on your compound are going
to be irritating. I tried to unscrew one of mine but it would not
let go. I was about to cut it off but I relented for now.

I agree 100%, they are very annoying. Most likely designed for fine
operations, like where 0.001 really matters.

As to derusting, a bit of oil a green scotchbrite pad (red if you
want to be more aggressive) and it should clean up pretty nice.

I have made some progress yesterday. I have already cleaned the ways,
which had essentially no rust on them. I will try to take some
pictures.

The taper attachment is so clogged with crud, it needs complete
disassembly. I will try to get it to work with VS today, and will
continue cleaning day after day.

Check oil levels in headstock, QC gearbox, and apron. You will need
a pump oiler to oil the carriage via the ball oilers. I couldn't
get one that fit so I ground down the end of the oil nozzle until I
got a good fit.

Good point. I forgot completely.

Not sure of belt wear, you don't want the varidrive belt to drop
down and rub on the green coating on your varidrive.

The belt is not in a good condition. The outer layer is separating
from the inner layer. Looks like the belt I need is 2528V370 and it
costs appx. $92.

Oh yes, check the felts when you get time.

It needs new felts. I have a felt pad to cut out replacements.

I'm envious about that taper attachment.

I sure hope this turns out to be a good deal for you. I have my fingers crossed.


Thank you. Clearly it needs a good amount of love and attention. But
it may have a fatal flaw.

i

Ignoramus8727 wrote:

Thank you. Clearly it needs a good amount of love and attention. But
it may have a fatal flaw.


You Russians are always so hopefull. VBG

On 2010-01-19, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus8727 wrote:

Thank you. Clearly it needs a good amount of love and attention. But
it may have a fatal flaw.


You Russians are always so hopefull. VBG

Hope dies last, is the Russian saying.Although I think that optimists
are simply uninformed.

i

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 16:51:03 -0600, Ignoramus8727
wrote:

Not sure of belt wear, you don't want the varidrive belt to drop
down and rub on the green coating on your varidrive.

The belt is not in a good condition. The outer layer is separating
from the inner layer. Looks like the belt I need is 2528V370 and it
costs appx. $92.


Check the various bearing houses. Thats way too much money.

Gunner

The current Democratic party has lost its ideological basis for
existence.
- It is NOT fiscally responsible.
- It is NOT ethically honorable.
- It has started wars based on lies.
- It does not support the well-being of americans - only billionaires.
- It has suppresed constitutional guaranteed liberties.
- It has foisted a liar as president upon America.
- It has violated US national sovereignty in trade treaties.
- It has refused to enforce the national borders.

....It no longer has valid reasons to exist.
Lorad474

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 16:51:03 -0600, Ignoramus8727
wrote:

I sure hope this turns out to be a good deal for you. I have my fingers crossed.


Thank you. Clearly it needs a good amount of love and attention. But
it may have a fatal flaw.


What might that be?


The current Democratic party has lost its ideological basis for
existence.
- It is NOT fiscally responsible.
- It is NOT ethically honorable.
- It has started wars based on lies.
- It does not support the well-being of americans - only billionaires.
- It has suppresed constitutional guaranteed liberties.
- It has foisted a liar as president upon America.
- It has violated US national sovereignty in trade treaties.
- It has refused to enforce the national borders.

....It no longer has valid reasons to exist.
Lorad474

On 2010-01-20, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 16:51:03 -0600, Ignoramus8727
wrote:

I sure hope this turns out to be a good deal for you. I have my fingers crossed.


Thank you. Clearly it needs a good amount of love and attention. But
it may have a fatal flaw.


What might that be?


I do not know yet. I am going to play with vari-drive as soon as I put
kids to bed.

i

On 2010-01-20, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 16:51:03 -0600, Ignoramus8727
wrote:

Not sure of belt wear, you don't want the varidrive belt to drop
down and rub on the green coating on your varidrive.

The belt is not in a good condition. The outer layer is separating
from the inner layer. Looks like the belt I need is 2528V370 and it
costs appx. $92.


Check the various bearing houses. Thats way too much money.


I have not found anything cheaper.

i

On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 21:06:46 -0600, Ignoramus8727
wrote:

On 2010-01-20, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 19 Jan 2010 16:51:03 -0600, Ignoramus8727
wrote:

Not sure of belt wear, you don't want the varidrive belt to drop
down and rub on the green coating on your varidrive.

The belt is not in a good condition. The outer layer is separating
from the inner layer. Looks like the belt I need is 2528V370 and it
costs appx. $92.


Check the various bearing houses. Thats way too much money.


I have not found anything cheaper.

i
http://www.tismc.com/

Call them and tell them you work for Coyote Engineering.

Gunner

The current Democratic party has lost its ideological basis for
existence.
- It is NOT fiscally responsible.
- It is NOT ethically honorable.
- It has started wars based on lies.
- It does not support the well-being of americans - only billionaires.
- It has suppresed constitutional guaranteed liberties.
- It has foisted a liar as president upon America.
- It has violated US national sovereignty in trade treaties.
- It has refused to enforce the national borders.

....It no longer has valid reasons to exist.
Lorad474

Ignoramus8727 wrote:

Check the various bearing houses. Thats way too much money.


I have not found anything cheaper.


The belt length and angle is odd. Clausing is the only source I've been able to find.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Wed, 20 Jan 2010 04:47:42 -0500, Wes wrote:

Ignoramus8727 wrote:

Check the various bearing houses. Thats way too much money.


I have not found anything cheaper.


The belt length and angle is odd. Clausing is the only source I've been able to find.

Wes


The angle will work itself out in short order. Length is the only thing
you really need to pay attention to.

Gunner

The current Democratic party has lost its ideological basis for
existence.
- It is NOT fiscally responsible.
- It is NOT ethically honorable.
- It has started wars based on lies.
- It does not support the well-being of americans - only billionaires.
- It has suppresed constitutional guaranteed liberties.
- It has foisted a liar as president upon America.
- It has violated US national sovereignty in trade treaties.
- It has refused to enforce the national borders.

....It no longer has valid reasons to exist.
Lorad474

On 2010-01-20, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus8727 wrote:

Check the various bearing houses. Thats way too much money.


I have not found anything cheaper.

The belt length and angle is odd. Clausing is the only source I've been able to find.

Supposedly, a belt that could fit, is 2528V370, and the lowest price I
could find online, is $92 plus shipping. It is not a popular size like
those starting with 1922, so it is pricey.

By the way... The old belt that I have, is in a bad shape, with the
outer layer separating from the inner layer. Coincidentally, the VS
drive makes a lot of noise. It sounds like a tractor falling down a
steep embankment. Am I correct thinking that this is caused by this
old belt and would likely be fixed by replacing the belt?

i

I have very good news about the variable speed drive. Yesterday I
mentioned that it would not switch any speeds and the handle would
just spring back.

I received great instructions from members of practical machinist and
clausing_lathe_and_mill, and was able to bleed air from the lines and
replace it with oil (Mobil DTE 24). The VS speed indicator dial was
also in a wrong position. The dial just needed turning. Now I have the
full speed range, and the "springiness" exists only in the first 100
RPM, between 300 and 400 I do not have any control. I can live with
that. Maybe I need to crack the lines to get rid of that.

Continued cleaning it, and now it looks merely dirty instead of
disgusting.

Opened up the screw drive gearbox, everything looks very good.

Just ordered a few parts from Clausing, such as Vee belt, way wipers,
spindle taper adaptor, cross feed nut (I was wrong about play in the
cross feed). Life is good.

i

On 2010-01-20, Gunner Asch wrote:
On Wed, 20 Jan 2010 04:47:42 -0500, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus8727 wrote:
Check the various bearing houses. Thats way too much money.
I have not found anything cheaper.
The belt length and angle is odd. Clausing is the only source I've been able to find.

The angle will work itself out in short order. Length is the only thing
you really need to pay attention to.

Gunner, the best price on belt 2528V370 that I could find, is $92. And
even that is not a perfect fit.

I called Clausing and the matching belt is $107. At that point, it was
a no brainer and I simply bought their belt. In general, I would say
that their prices on these parts are very good. The cross feed nut,
for example, is just $40. I was wrong about the play in cross feed, it
has quite a bit of play, so I decided to replace the cross feed nut
also.

i

Ignoramus29895 wrote:

On 2010-01-20, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus8727 wrote:

Check the various bearing houses. Thats way too much money.


I have not found anything cheaper.

The belt length and angle is odd. Clausing is the only source I've been able to find.

Supposedly, a belt that could fit, is 2528V370, and the lowest price I
could find online, is $92 plus shipping. It is not a popular size like
those starting with 1922, so it is pricey.

By the way... The old belt that I have, is in a bad shape, with the
outer layer separating from the inner layer. Coincidentally, the VS
drive makes a lot of noise. It sounds like a tractor falling down a
steep embankment. Am I correct thinking that this is caused by this
old belt and would likely be fixed by replacing the belt?

i

The drive is fairly loud even when things are working fine. Are you hearing a repeating
sound, you know, does it have a periodic beat? If the back gear and high range pin are
both engaged at any time, the spindle will lock and the orignal owner may have burned a
few spots in the belt. That wouldn't sound good either.

If you take the v belt off and disconnect the hydralic hose you should be able to spread
the motor sheaves. See if you can rock them relative to each other. Can you see a green
coating on the sheave shaft that goes into the delrin bushing?

You have my email address, can you send a 2MB audio recording of your drive? Heck, post
it on your website.

Thanks for supporting the Michigan economy!

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Ignoramus29895 wrote:

I have very good news about the variable speed drive. Yesterday I
mentioned that it would not switch any speeds and the handle would
just spring back.

I received great instructions from members of practical machinist and
clausing_lathe_and_mill, and was able to bleed air from the lines and
replace it with oil (Mobil DTE 24). The VS speed indicator dial was
also in a wrong position. The dial just needed turning. Now I have the
full speed range, and the "springiness" exists only in the first 100
RPM, between 300 and 400 I do not have any control. I can live with
that. Maybe I need to crack the lines to get rid of that.

Yeah, you still likely have some air though I wonder how wide your belt is relative to a
new one?

Continued cleaning it, and now it looks merely dirty instead of
disgusting.

I thought the paint on mine looked bad. You get rid of that ugly orange rust and get
it back to a browned apearance like a muzzleloader and it will look a whole lot better.


Opened up the screw drive gearbox, everything looks very good.

Don't forget oil in the apron.


Just ordered a few parts from Clausing, such as Vee belt, way wipers,
spindle taper adaptor, cross feed nut (I was wrong about play in the
cross feed). Life is good.

How much were the way wipers? I need to replace mine?


Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On 2010-01-20, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus29895 wrote:

I have very good news about the variable speed drive. Yesterday I
mentioned that it would not switch any speeds and the handle would
just spring back.

I received great instructions from members of practical machinist and
clausing_lathe_and_mill, and was able to bleed air from the lines and
replace it with oil (Mobil DTE 24). The VS speed indicator dial was
also in a wrong position. The dial just needed turning. Now I have the
full speed range, and the "springiness" exists only in the first 100
RPM, between 300 and 400 I do not have any control. I can live with
that. Maybe I need to crack the lines to get rid of that.

Yeah, you still likely have some air though I wonder how wide your
belt is relative to a new one?

No idea, but I will hopefully get new belt tomorrow. Replacing the
belt would be a weekend project.

Continued cleaning it, and now it looks merely dirty instead of
disgusting.

I thought the paint on mine looked bad. You get rid of that ugly
orange rust and get it back to a browned apearance like a
muzzleloader and it will look a whole lot better.

I will first clean it to some basic OK appearance, and if the lathe
proves good in other respects, then I will try to fully clean and
repaint it.


Opened up the screw drive gearbox, everything looks very good.

Don't forget oil in the apron.

Yes. I will take apart the carriage assembly to see if there are any
chips embedded underneath. I will also replace cross feed nut and
clean the taper attachment, which is unbelievably dirty and needs
disassembly.


Just ordered a few parts from Clausing, such as Vee belt, way wipers,
spindle taper adaptor, cross feed nut (I was wrong about play in the
cross feed). Life is good.

How much were the way wipers? I need to replace mine?

I believe something like $12 or 14 per set of six. I ordered two sets
to have just in case.

i

On 2010-01-20, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus29895 wrote:

On 2010-01-20, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus8727 wrote:

Check the various bearing houses. Thats way too much money.


I have not found anything cheaper.

The belt length and angle is odd. Clausing is the only source I've been able to find.

Supposedly, a belt that could fit, is 2528V370, and the lowest price I
could find online, is $92 plus shipping. It is not a popular size like
those starting with 1922, so it is pricey.

By the way... The old belt that I have, is in a bad shape, with the
outer layer separating from the inner layer. Coincidentally, the VS
drive makes a lot of noise. It sounds like a tractor falling down a
steep embankment. Am I correct thinking that this is caused by this
old belt and would likely be fixed by replacing the belt?

i

The drive is fairly loud even when things are working fine. Are you hearing a repeating
sound, you know, does it have a periodic beat? If the back gear and high range pin are
both engaged at any time, the spindle will lock and the orignal owner may have burned a
few spots in the belt. That wouldn't sound good either.

The current belt has many defects, outer layer delaminating, one piece
shewed out, etc

If you take the v belt off and disconnect the hydralic hose you
should be able to spread the motor sheaves. See if you can rock
them relative to each other. Can you see a green coating on the
sheave shaft that goes into the delrin bushing?

I will definitely check that, and take pictures, when I replace the
belt.

I am optimistic that this is a belt issue.

The pulleys also have rust in the areas where the belt did not touch
it. I think that the lathe spent a very long time with the VS drive
"not working". So they never went through the normal range for the
belt. I think that I should clean it, it probably would be abrasive to
the belt.

i

Ignoramus29895 wrote:

I am optimistic that this is a belt issue.

I'm hoping so too. I want to see pictures of you making chips, not fixing a lathe. Been
there done that.


The pulleys also have rust in the areas where the belt did not touch
it. I think that the lathe spent a very long time with the VS drive
"not working". So they never went through the normal range for the
belt. I think that I should clean it, it probably would be abrasive to
the belt.

A bit of scotchbrite can't hurt but I doubt the rust on the sheaves would really hurt your
new belt.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

Ignoramus29895 wrote:

How much were the way wipers? I need to replace mine?

I believe something like $12 or 14 per set of six. I ordered two sets
to have just in case.


6? Does your cross have wipers? Only the carriage has wipers on mine and that would be
4. Where do the other two go? I'm curious.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On 2010-01-20, Wes wrote:
Ignoramus29895 wrote:

How much were the way wipers? I need to replace mine?

I believe something like $12 or 14 per set of six. I ordered two sets
to have just in case.


6? Does your cross have wipers? Only the carriage has wipers on mine and that would be
4. Where do the other two go? I'm curious.

On tailstock.

i

Ignoramus29895 wrote:

6? Does your cross have wipers? Only the carriage has wipers on mine and that would be
4. Where do the other two go? I'm curious.

On tailstock.

i

DOH! Thanks

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Wed, 20 Jan 2010 15:03:17 -0500, Wes wrote:

Ignoramus29895 wrote:

6? Does your cross have wipers? Only the carriage has wipers on mine and that would be
4. Where do the other two go? I'm curious.

On tailstock.

i

DOH! Thanks

Wes


Only two? All of mine have 4 on the tailstock.

Gunner

The current Democratic party has lost its ideological basis for
existence.
- It is NOT fiscally responsible.
- It is NOT ethically honorable.
- It has started wars based on lies.
- It does not support the well-being of americans - only billionaires.
- It has suppresed constitutional guaranteed liberties.
- It has foisted a liar as president upon America.
- It has violated US national sovereignty in trade treaties.
- It has refused to enforce the national borders.

....It no longer has valid reasons to exist.
Lorad474

Gunner Asch wrote:

On tailstock.

i

DOH! Thanks

Wes


Only two? All of mine have 4 on the tailstock.

Clausing took a few short cuts. Cutting a taper using the compound that doesn't have
wipers had it pretty tied up from aluminum chips. One of my planned upgrades is adding
some more wipers to my lathe.

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

On Wed, 20 Jan 2010 16:52:06 -0500, Wes wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:

On tailstock.

i

DOH! Thanks

Wes


Only two? All of mine have 4 on the tailstock.

Clausing took a few short cuts. Cutting a taper using the compound that doesn't have
wipers had it pretty tied up from aluminum chips. One of my planned upgrades is adding
some more wipers to my lathe.

Wes

Must have shortcutted on your particular lathe. My Clausing 1500 has 4
wipers on the tailstock. But it is a 15x52" lathe. Shrug


Gunner

The current Democratic party has lost its ideological basis for
existence.
- It is NOT fiscally responsible.
- It is NOT ethically honorable.
- It has started wars based on lies.
- It does not support the well-being of americans - only billionaires.
- It has suppresed constitutional guaranteed liberties.
- It has foisted a liar as president upon America.
- It has violated US national sovereignty in trade treaties.
- It has refused to enforce the national borders.

....It no longer has valid reasons to exist.
Lorad474

On 2010-01-19, Pete Keillor wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jan 2010 19:49:51 -0600, Ignoramus5493
wrote:

It took me 2 hours to unload it from my trailer and to put it in its
intended place. Lack of forklift or suitable crane hampered the
progress a little bit. My kids (8 and 4) helped a little bit.

Pictures are he

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-At-My-Garage/

Looks nice.

I wonder why the compound is off the carriage. You'll need two
rather thin hex nuts to hold it back on if it is like my Clausing.

Aha! I see some nuts are there in a later photo -- but they
don't look thin enough. Maybe the overhang of the compound is less, but
it looks pretty similar from here.

includes picture of what I think is a taper attachment.

Yes it is -- and it looks like the fancier of thetwo versions.
But, you are missing the extension arm to clamp to the bed near the
tailstock..

Hmm ... a Phase-A-Matic -- time to dig out another of your VFDs.

It was fitted with a lever-style collet closer. I hope that
those parts are present, too.

Hydraulic variable speed pulleys -- you may need to replace
seals.



The pictures do not show the four jaw chuck and two buckets of
misc tooling.

The buckets of tooling need to be examined and photographed to
try to identify other parts for the taper attachment.

I already know one issue with this lathe (besides being dirty), which
I want to discuss separately. It is not without problems, though, I
hope, they are solvable.

I hope so.

i
It's definitely a taper attachment. There may be some stuff missing,
hopefully in your parts buckets. I'd expect some sort of cover for
the cross slide dovetail and a clamp to lock the taper attachment to
the lathe bed way during use. Maybe someone has a parts diagram.

I hope it cleans up and runs nice for you.

Pete Keillor


Good Luck,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

On 2010-01-23, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-01-19, Pete Keillor wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jan 2010 19:49:51 -0600, Ignoramus5493
wrote:

It took me 2 hours to unload it from my trailer and to put it in its
intended place. Lack of forklift or suitable crane hampered the
progress a little bit. My kids (8 and 4) helped a little bit.

Pictures are he

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-At-My-Garage/

Looks nice.

I wonder why the compound is off the carriage. You'll need two
rather thin hex nuts to hold it back on if it is like my Clausing.

I took the compound home when I paid for the lathe. I picked up two
weeks after paying, so I took the tailstock and compound with me.

Then I left it off because I started cleaning.

Aha! I see some nuts are there in a later photo -- but they
don't look thin enough. Maybe the overhang of the compound is less, but
it looks pretty similar from here.

The nuts are wrong. They barely fit.

includes picture of what I think is a taper attachment.

Yes it is -- and it looks like the fancier of thetwo versions.
But, you are missing the extension arm to clamp to the bed near the
tailstock..

Should be easy to make, rigght?

Hmm ... a Phase-A-Matic -- time to dig out another of your VFDs.

Definitely, this is what I will do after finishing cleaning and
repainting.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...he/03-Cleanup/


It was fitted with a lever-style collet closer. I hope that
those parts are present, too.

I am not sure why you say so?

Hydraulic variable speed pulleys -- you may need to replace seals.

Knock on wood, there seems to be no leaks after 3 days.,

The lathe, however, does leak oil, I have a feeling that it is from
the threading gearbox.

The pictures do not show the four jaw chuck and two buckets of
misc tooling.

The buckets of tooling need to be examined and photographed to
try to identify other parts for the taper attachment.

I have sorted that stuff a little bit. Some of it (one bucket) is just
drill bits. Other stuff was a lot of MT3 chucks and centers. One
useful thing was a "kickout", that stops the lathe when carriage hits
it. So I could start doing some fine, long cut, and go and do
something else and it will stop by itself.

i

Ignoramus27518 wrote:

I wonder why the compound is off the carriage. You'll need two
rather thin hex nuts to hold it back on if it is like my Clausing.

I took the compound home when I paid for the lathe. I picked up two
weeks after paying, so I took the tailstock and compound with me.

ROTFLMAO! I knew you had a good head on your shoulders

Wes
--
"Additionally as a security officer, I carry a gun to protect
government officials but my life isn't worth protecting at home
in their eyes." Dick Anthony Heller

In article ,
Ignoramus27518 wrote:

On 2010-01-23, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-01-19, Pete Keillor wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jan 2010 19:49:51 -0600, Ignoramus5493
wrote:

It took me 2 hours to unload it from my trailer and to put it in its
intended place. Lack of forklift or suitable crane hampered the
progress a little bit. My kids (8 and 4) helped a little bit.

Pictures are he

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-At-My-Garage/

[snip]

I have sorted that stuff a little bit. Some of it (one bucket) is just
drill bits. Other stuff was a lot of MT3 chucks and centers. One
useful thing was a "kickout", that stops the lathe when carriage hits
it. So I could start doing some fine, long cut, and go and do
something else and it will stop by itself.

The kickout is fine, but must be set up for a job, and so isn't reliable
as a mechanical fuse.

What I do is to use a bit of solid copper wire as the pin driving the
leadscrew, so if something jams or collides, the wire is sheared. One
can also buy little soft steel pins to do the same, but copper (or
brass) wire is common.

This pin is in the leadscrew, an inch or two from the headstock.

Joe Gwinn

On 2010-01-23, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
The kickout is fine, but must be set up for a job, and so isn't reliable
as a mechanical fuse.

What I do is to use a bit of solid copper wire as the pin driving the
leadscrew, so if something jams or collides, the wire is sheared. One
can also buy little soft steel pins to do the same, but copper (or
brass) wire is common.

I thought that the OEM pin performs the same functions.

i

This pin is in the leadscrew, an inch or two from the headstock.

Joe Gwinn

On 2010-01-23, Ignoramus27518 wrote:
On 2010-01-23, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-01-19, Pete Keillor wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jan 2010 19:49:51 -0600, Ignoramus5493
wrote:

It took me 2 hours to unload it from my trailer and to put it in its

[ ... ]

Pictures are he

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-At-My-Garage/

Looks nice.

I wonder why the compound is off the carriage. You'll need two
rather thin hex nuts to hold it back on if it is like my Clausing.

I took the compound home when I paid for the lathe. I picked up two
weeks after paying, so I took the tailstock and compound with me.

O.K. That makes sense. Makes it more difficult for him to
re-sell it before you pick it up.

Then I left it off because I started cleaning.

O.K.

Aha! I see some nuts are there in a later photo -- but they
don't look thin enough. Maybe the overhang of the compound is less, but
it looks pretty similar from here.

The nuts are wrong. They barely fit.

O.K. I thought so. There should be a short wrench with the
lathe which has a square socket in one end (to fit many locks on the
lathe, and the top of the lantern style toolpost which you don't want,
and a thin open-end to fit the compound nuts in the other end.

includes picture of what I think is a taper attachment.

Yes it is -- and it looks like the fancier of the two versions.
But, you are missing the extension arm to clamp to the bed near the
tailstock..

Should be easy to make, rigght?

Fairly -- with one caveat.

It clamps on the back edge of the flat of the rear ways, and
should not extend far enough to touch the tailstock (which rides on the
inner ways). It should never touch the carriage, of course.

It is on the end of a steel rod which threads into a socket on
the tailstock end of the part which slides in the dovetail. (Or at
least, which *will* slide once the lathe is fully cleaned up. :-)

The other end is turned down to a reduced diameter and then
threaded at the end. It passes through a loose hole in the end of the
arm sticking out from the clamp, and is held in place with a washer and
nut.

The hole is loose because once the bar is screwed into the slide
and the clamp is in place on the lathe bed, it is poured full of molten
sulfur which hardens to maintain the orientation for future addition and
removal without any lateral stress which would increase wear.

You should be able to get the proper manuals from Clausing when
you get the ones for your lathe, but you might want to look as these two
to see what it is like and see what else may be missing.

Yours is probably close to:

http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/MANUALS/CLAUSING/Taper-attachment-7699.pdf

and mine is:

http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/MANUALS/CLAUSING/Taper-attachment-7515.pdf

Feel free to add them to your free manuals web site too.

Look for the part number on your taper attachment (if you can
find it) and ask Clausing for a copy of the manual.

Hmm -- the one like yours shows *two* bed clamps -- one to wards
headstock and one towards tailstock. And I think that you are also
missing the chip shield extension from the back of the cross slide.

There were several parts missing from mine (from eBay), and I
did not have the manuals (because there was no legible part number on
the one which I had), so I had to figure out how it was supposed to work
and make those parts.

The use of the sulfur bedding for the clamp was part of the
instructions for a South Bend, IIRC -- these have you file the clamp
until it has no twist.

Hmm ... a Phase-A-Matic -- time to dig out another of your VFDs.

Definitely, this is what I will do after finishing cleaning and
repainting.

Of course, you don't need it for the variable speed, but it will
get the full power out of your motor at need.

http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...he/03-Cleanup/


It was fitted with a lever-style collet closer. I hope that
those parts are present, too.

I am not sure why you say so?

Because of the square-toothed disk on the outboard end of the
spindle. It engages a clip lock after tightening the drawbar to the
right point so it will lock firmly when the lever is moved. The lock
keeps the setting from shifting.

There is also an eye sticking out behind the spindle from the
gear and belt enclosure which the closing lever pivots against..

Hydraulic variable speed pulleys -- you may need to replace seals.

Knock on wood, there seems to be no leaks after 3 days.,

Good! It is in part a function of the setting of the speed. If
the pulleys are in the relaxed state (I don't know whether this is
maximum or minimum speed, though I suspect minimum) there is no presure
on the hydraulics, and they won't leak.

The lathe, however, does leak oil, I have a feeling that it is from
the threading gearbox.

I suspect so -- yours seems to have a fully-enclosed
quick-change gearbox, while mine is open bottom and the oil will drip
through without hindrance. :-)

The pictures do not show the four jaw chuck and two buckets of
misc tooling.

The buckets of tooling need to be examined and photographed to
try to identify other parts for the taper attachment.

I have sorted that stuff a little bit. Some of it (one bucket) is just
drill bits. Other stuff was a lot of MT3 chucks and centers. One
useful thing was a "kickout", that stops the lathe when carriage hits
it. So I could start doing some fine, long cut, and go and do
something else and it will stop by itself.

Particularly useful for threading to a shoulder -- if it will
also kick out the half nuts as well as the gered power feed.

Enjoy,
DoN.

--
Email: | Voice (all times): (703) 938-4564
(too) near Washington D.C. | http://www.d-and-d.com/dnichols/DoN.html
--- Black Holes are where God is dividing by zero ---

The lathe, however, does leak oil, I have a feeling that it is from
the threading gearbox.

My Clausing leaks too, but from the apron. I'm wondering if this is a
common wear problem for the Clausings and what the fix is. I think on
mine, it has to do with the fit of the worm that drives the feeds and
its fit in the bushing on the tailstock end. My "fix" is to not use
power feed very often.

RWL

In article ,
Ignoramus27518 wrote:

On 2010-01-23, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
The kickout is fine, but must be set up for a job, and so isn't reliable
as a mechanical fuse.

What I do is to use a bit of solid copper wire as the pin driving the
leadscrew, so if something jams or collides, the wire is sheared. One
can also buy little soft steel pins to do the same, but copper (or
brass) wire is common.

I thought that the OEM pin performs the same functions.

You mean the shear pin (562-102) from Clausing? Yes, it performs the
same function, but I had the copper wire.

The real point of my posting was to ensure that you understood that this
pin was supposed to be a mechanical fuse, and so should not be too
strong.

Joe Gwinn


This pin is in the leadscrew, an inch or two from the headstock.

Joe Gwinn