On 2010-01-23, Ignoramus27518 wrote:
On 2010-01-23, DoN. Nichols wrote:
On 2010-01-19, Pete Keillor wrote:
On Mon, 18 Jan 2010 19:49:51 -0600, Ignoramus5493
wrote:
It took me 2 hours to unload it from my trailer and to put it in its
[ ... ]
Pictures are he
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...-At-My-Garage/
Looks nice.
I wonder why the compound is off the carriage. You'll need two
rather thin hex nuts to hold it back on if it is like my Clausing.
I took the compound home when I paid for the lathe. I picked up two
weeks after paying, so I took the tailstock and compound with me.
O.K. That makes sense. Makes it more difficult for him to
re-sell it before you pick it up.
Then I left it off because I started cleaning.
O.K.
Aha! I see some nuts are there in a later photo -- but they
don't look thin enough. Maybe the overhang of the compound is less, but
it looks pretty similar from here.
The nuts are wrong. They barely fit.
O.K. I thought so. There should be a short wrench with the
lathe which has a square socket in one end (to fit many locks on the
lathe, and the top of the lantern style toolpost which you don't want,
and a thin open-end to fit the compound nuts in the other end.
includes picture of what I think is a taper attachment.
Yes it is -- and it looks like the fancier of the two versions.
But, you are missing the extension arm to clamp to the bed near the
tailstock..
Should be easy to make, rigght?
Fairly -- with one caveat.
It clamps on the back edge of the flat of the rear ways, and
should not extend far enough to touch the tailstock (which rides on the
inner ways). It should never touch the carriage, of course.
It is on the end of a steel rod which threads into a socket on
the tailstock end of the part which slides in the dovetail. (Or at
least, which *will* slide once the lathe is fully cleaned up. :-)
The other end is turned down to a reduced diameter and then
threaded at the end. It passes through a loose hole in the end of the
arm sticking out from the clamp, and is held in place with a washer and
nut.
The hole is loose because once the bar is screwed into the slide
and the clamp is in place on the lathe bed, it is poured full of molten
sulfur which hardens to maintain the orientation for future addition and
removal without any lateral stress which would increase wear.
You should be able to get the proper manuals from Clausing when
you get the ones for your lathe, but you might want to look as these two
to see what it is like and see what else may be missing.
Yours is probably close to:
http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/MANUALS/CLAUSING/Taper-attachment-7699.pdf
and mine is:
http://www.d-and-d.com/misc/MANUALS/CLAUSING/Taper-attachment-7515.pdf
Feel free to add them to your free manuals web site too.
Look for the part number on your taper attachment (if you can
find it) and ask Clausing for a copy of the manual.
Hmm -- the one like yours shows *two* bed clamps -- one to wards
headstock and one towards tailstock. And I think that you are also
missing the chip shield extension from the back of the cross slide.
There were several parts missing from mine (from eBay), and I
did not have the manuals (because there was no legible part number on
the one which I had), so I had to figure out how it was supposed to work
and make those parts.
The use of the sulfur bedding for the clamp was part of the
instructions for a South Bend, IIRC -- these have you file the clamp
until it has no twist.
Hmm ... a Phase-A-Matic -- time to dig out another of your VFDs.
Definitely, this is what I will do after finishing cleaning and
repainting.
Of course, you don't need it for the variable speed, but it will
get the full power out of your motor at need.
http://igor.chudov.com/projects/Clau...he/03-Cleanup/
It was fitted with a lever-style collet closer. I hope that
those parts are present, too.
I am not sure why you say so?
Because of the square-toothed disk on the outboard end of the
spindle. It engages a clip lock after tightening the drawbar to the
right point so it will lock firmly when the lever is moved. The lock
keeps the setting from shifting.
There is also an eye sticking out behind the spindle from the
gear and belt enclosure which the closing lever pivots against..
Hydraulic variable speed pulleys -- you may need to replace seals.
Knock on wood, there seems to be no leaks after 3 days.,
Good! It is in part a function of the setting of the speed. If
the pulleys are in the relaxed state (I don't know whether this is
maximum or minimum speed, though I suspect minimum) there is no presure
on the hydraulics, and they won't leak.
The lathe, however, does leak oil, I have a feeling that it is from
the threading gearbox.
I suspect so -- yours seems to have a fully-enclosed
quick-change gearbox, while mine is open bottom and the oil will drip
through without hindrance. :-)
The pictures do not show the four jaw chuck and two buckets of
misc tooling.
The buckets of tooling need to be examined and photographed to
try to identify other parts for the taper attachment.
I have sorted that stuff a little bit. Some of it (one bucket) is just
drill bits. Other stuff was a lot of MT3 chucks and centers. One
useful thing was a "kickout", that stops the lathe when carriage hits
it. So I could start doing some fine, long cut, and go and do
something else and it will stop by itself.
Particularly useful for threading to a shoulder -- if it will
also kick out the half nuts as well as the gered power feed.
Enjoy,
DoN.
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