I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of
grueling labor.

Any ideas?

i

Ignoramus22753 wrote:
I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of
grueling labor.

Any ideas?

It's too hard of a task, just give up.

"Ignoramus22753" wrote in message
...
I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of
grueling labor.

Any ideas?

i

Sandblast ? I had a simular situation and found a guy that did the
whole job for $20 back in 1995. The time it saved me was well
worth the money and no mess in the shop, i just droped off the
parts and picked them up the next day.

Best Regards
Tom.

On Dec 12, 12:49*pm, Ignoramus22753 ignoramus22...@NOSPAM.
22753.invalid wrote:
I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

If the rust is only a dusting, and some of the paint comes off with a
wire
brush, give it a sloppy cleaning, then use 'liquid sandpaper' (TSP).
A suitable antirust primer and paint coat should stick, and the
appearance can be upgraded from menacing to surly.

On Dec 12, 8:49*pm, Ignoramus22753 ignoramus22...@NOSPAM.
22753.invalid wrote:

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.


Any ideas?

i

Hot air gun or propane torch on the paint and then wire brush or
scraper. Just make sure you will not blow the tank up from fumes. So
use some CO2 or something to displace the air in the tank.

Dan

On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 14:49:01 -0600, Ignoramus22753
wrote:


I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.


I use surface conditioning flap-disks from my local engineering supply store.
Like Scotchbrite on crack-cocaine. They are coarse and open and fit on an
angle grinder. Goggles, mask and coveralls definitely required. Don't use the
conventional sandpaper type flap-disks. They load up and stop working.


Mark Rand
RTFM

Ignoramus22753 wrote in
:

I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of
grueling labor.

Any ideas?

I don't know if they still exist, but I have a gadget that goes in an
electric drill that consists of a hub attached to 6 or 8 bunches of
pivoting wires. They are about 0.05" in diameter, and stiff. It's sort
of like a poor man's needle scaler. Once the sharp corners wear off,
they don't work as well, but you can square them up on a grinder in no
time. I've used mine on a variety of surfaces, including concrete, which
is how I know about re-sharpening the thing. It makes a hell of a
racket.

I tried a quick search on the web, and couldn't get a good match.

Doug White

Those crazy-looking rotary scalers/brushes were readily available for a
couple of years (in the 70s, maybe), then almost unseen anywhere. I found
one at a flea market years ago, but don't know where it is right now.
Having used one of these tools, I can imagine that frequent injuries were
probably likely.

The wires were very coarse and high carbon, and could be resharpened with a
grinder, as you suggested. Better to grind them all the same length, though.

It wouldn't be very difficult to make a similar tool with a quantity of
allen/hex wrenches (with a loop or ring formed at one end) and a hub that
would allow them to swing. I haven't seen a source for hex wrenches like the
ones used in the folding multi-hex wrench type tool, but there may be some
of those available.

--
WB
..........
metalworking projects
www.kwagmire.com/metal_proj.html


"Doug White" wrote in message
...

I don't know if they still exist, but I have a gadget that goes in an
electric drill that consists of a hub attached to 6 or 8 bunches of
pivoting wires. They are about 0.05" in diameter, and stiff. It's sort
of like a poor man's needle scaler. Once the sharp corners wear off,
they don't work as well, but you can square them up on a grinder in no
time. I've used mine on a variety of surfaces, including concrete, which
is how I know about re-sharpening the thing. It makes a hell of a
racket.

I tried a quick search on the web, and couldn't get a good match.

Doug White

On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 19:39:18 -0500, "Wild_Bill"
wrote:

Those crazy-looking rotary scalers/brushes were readily available for a
couple of years (in the 70s, maybe), then almost unseen anywhere. I found
one at a flea market years ago, but don't know where it is right now.
Having used one of these tools, I can imagine that frequent injuries were
probably likely.

The wires were very coarse and high carbon, and could be resharpened with a
grinder, as you suggested. Better to grind them all the same length, though.

It wouldn't be very difficult to make a similar tool with a quantity of
allen/hex wrenches (with a loop or ring formed at one end) and a hub that
would allow them to swing. I haven't seen a source for hex wrenches like the
ones used in the folding multi-hex wrench type tool, but there may be some
of those available.
The one at hand is called a "Power Stripper" and was imported by
Consumers Distributing - a now defunct wholesale club operation.
Gerry :-)}
London, Canada

"Ignoramus22753" wrote in message
...
I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of
grueling labor.

Any ideas?

i

http://www.shop3m.com/3m-clean-strip-xt-rcm96xtx07.html

Any automotive paint store carries them.

On Dec 12, 7:39*pm, "Wild_Bill" wrote:
Those crazy-looking rotary scalers/brushes ....
Having used one of these tools, I can imagine that frequent injuries were
probably likely.

A neighbor's son almost lost an eye when one of the wires broke off
and impaled him in the face.

I've had good results with a medium grit wheel on an angle grinder,
not sure why but it doesn't load up with paint too badly. It's the
same wheel that I use for auto body final grinding (and lathe bits)
and the light scratches disappear after sanding the first prime coat.

jsw

Don't know about the paint but I'm a real believer in "Evapo-Rust" for
getting rid of rust. Harbor Freight and I think Autozone carry it. Best if
you can dip the parts in - just leave overnight without stirring or an hour
or so with agitation. They say you can soak a towel, place it on a flat
surface, and cover with plastic sheet to cut evaporation. Rewet the towel
and shift it around every hour or so. Haven't tried it yet but when I get
around to painting my trailer I will. Should work on your tank.

-----
Regards,
Carl Ijames

"Ignoramus22753" wrote in message
...
I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of
grueling labor.

Any ideas?

i

"Carl Ijames" wrote in
:

Don't know about the paint but I'm a real believer in "Evapo-Rust" for
getting rid of rust. Harbor Freight and I think Autozone carry it.
Best if you can dip the parts in - just leave overnight without
stirring or an hour or so with agitation. They say you can soak a
towel, place it on a flat surface, and cover with plastic sheet to cut
evaporation. Rewet the towel and shift it around every hour or so.
Haven't tried it yet but when I get around to painting my trailer I
will. Should work on your tank.

I'll second that. It's very good stuff.

Doug White

On 2009-12-13, Bill McKee wrote:

"Ignoramus22753" wrote in message
...
I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of
grueling labor.

Any ideas?

i

http://www.shop3m.com/3m-clean-strip-xt-rcm96xtx07.html

Any automotive paint store carries them.



Bill, thanks. This is what I was looking for. Would you have an idea
what grit I want,maybe 36?

i

In article ,
Ignoramus22753 wrote:

I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of
grueling labor.

Needle scalers are used for paint prep of navy ships, to remove heavy
layers of rust and paint.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1108

Unlike the flailing-wire rotary brushes, the needles are unlikely to be
launched and cause injury.

Buerste may have a knotted-wire brush to suit.

Joe Gwinn

On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 14:06:56 -0800, "azotic" wrote:


"Ignoramus22753" wrote in message
m...
I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.



Sandblast ?

I'm with Tom on this. Sandblasting is not only the best prep for paint
on steel, but involves no labor on your part other than toting the
tank back and forth. My local sandblaster would probably charge around
$50 to take that tank to bare metal.

--
Ned Simmons

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Dec 12, 7:39 pm, "Wild_Bill" wrote:
Those crazy-looking rotary scalers/brushes ....
Having used one of these tools, I can imagine that frequent injuries were
probably likely.

A neighbor's son almost lost an eye when one of the wires broke off
and impaled him in the face.

reply:

Sounds like the kid either didn't notice, could not comprehend, did not or
could not read:

WARNING: USE EYE PROTECTION stamped in steel on every brush. Anyone who
uses one of those without full face protection earns what they get.

Steve

I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way.
Take it to a body shop and have them hot tank it. About $20.

On 2009-12-13, Steve B wrote:

I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way.
Take it to a body shop and have them hot tank it. About $20.

You mean regular car body shops?

i

"Ignoramus15449" wrote in message
...
On 2009-12-13, Steve B wrote:

I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way.
Take it to a body shop and have them hot tank it. About $20.

You mean regular car body shops?

i

Some still hot tank. Lots of M/C shops do, too.

Steve

"Ignoramus15449" wrote in message
...
On 2009-12-13, Bill McKee wrote:

"Ignoramus22753" wrote in message
...
I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of
grueling labor.

Any ideas?

i

http://www.shop3m.com/3m-clean-strip-xt-rcm96xtx07.html

Any automotive paint store carries them.



Bill, thanks. This is what I was looking for. Would you have an idea
what grit I want,maybe 36?

i

Do not know the grit of the ones I have. Used it on an art welding project,
but bought it at Home Depot. Was a Norton Rapidstrip T27. Plus I have a
flexible backing plate called a Gatorgrit
http://www.gatorfinishing.com/products/6/ You can attach a scotchbrite type
pad to it.

On Dec 13, 3:04*pm, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
...
Needle scalers are used for paint prep of navy ships, to remove heavy
layers of rust and paint.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1108

Joe Gwinn

Got one, works fairly well, but not on sheetmetal. The internal air
hammer pounds the needles into the work hard enough to dent it or
chase it around.

jsw

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Dec 13, 3:04 pm, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
...
Needle scalers are used for paint prep of navy ships, to remove heavy
layers of rust and paint.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1108

Joe Gwinn

Got one, works fairly well, but not on sheetmetal. The internal air
hammer pounds the needles into the work hard enough to dent it or
chase it around.

jsw

Same here, they're more suited to a trailer or truck frame, and only if
there is rust/flaking paint, not to remove a thin coat of sound paint.

In article ,
"ATP*" wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Dec 13, 3:04 pm, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
...
Needle scalers are used for paint prep of navy ships, to remove heavy
layers of rust and paint.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1108

Joe Gwinn

Got one, works fairly well, but not on sheetmetal. The internal air
hammer pounds the needles into the work hard enough to dent it or
chase it around.

jsw

Sounds noisy as hell too.


Same here, they're more suited to a trailer or truck frame, and only if
there is rust/flaking paint, not to remove a thin coat of sound paint.

Does dropping the air pressure help?


Joe Gwinn

On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 14:49:01 -0600, Ignoramus22753 wrote:

I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of
grueling labor.

Any ideas?

I can't help you with this, but I'd strongly recommend checking the inside
of the tank for rust as well. I don't have any idea what you'd do if there
is any, maybe fill the tank with Naval Jelly, drop in some BBs, and shake
it?

Good Luck!
Rich

"Joseph Gwinn" wrote in message
...
In article ,
"ATP*" wrote:

"Jim Wilkins" wrote in message
...
On Dec 13, 3:04 pm, Joseph Gwinn wrote:
...
Needle scalers are used for paint prep of navy ships, to remove heavy
layers of rust and paint.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/displayitem.taf?Itemnumber=1108

Joe Gwinn

Got one, works fairly well, but not on sheetmetal. The internal air
hammer pounds the needles into the work hard enough to dent it or
chase it around.

jsw

Sounds noisy as hell too.


Same here, they're more suited to a trailer or truck frame, and only if
there is rust/flaking paint, not to remove a thin coat of sound paint.

Does dropping the air pressure help?


Joe Gwinn

Never tried it that way. Carbide grit on the end of the teeth would probably
help.

"Rich Grise" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 14:49:01 -0600, Ignoramus22753 wrote:

I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of
grueling labor.

Any ideas?

I can't help you with this, but I'd strongly recommend checking the inside
of the tank for rust as well. I don't have any idea what you'd do if there
is any, maybe fill the tank with Naval Jelly, drop in some BBs, and shake
it?

Good Luck!
Rich

I built a simple tumbler to tumble my welder gas tank. I built it out of a
unit that turns the rotisserie on a bbq. Total cost for motor $1, and some
spare tubing and steel. It worked great with some sand and bb's and
marbles.

Steve

On Dec 14, 9:34*am, Joseph Gwinn wrote:

Sounds noisy as hell too.

Guy next door couldn't hear his Harley start.

Same here, they're more suited to a trailer or truck frame, and only if
there is rust/flaking paint, not to remove a thin coat of sound paint.

Does dropping the air pressure help?

Joe Gwinn

It helped tell me I needed a bigger compressor.

They do about the same job as a weldor's chipping hammer, but faster.
I think an air hammer with an angled chisel bit might be better on
thinner painted metal.

jsw

On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 14:57:46 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Rich Grise" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 14:49:01 -0600, Ignoramus22753 wrote:

I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of
grueling labor.

Any ideas?

I can't help you with this, but I'd strongly recommend checking the inside
of the tank for rust as well. I don't have any idea what you'd do if there
is any, maybe fill the tank with Naval Jelly, drop in some BBs, and shake
it?

Good Luck!
Rich

I built a simple tumbler to tumble my welder gas tank. I built it out of a
unit that turns the rotisserie on a bbq. Total cost for motor $1, and some
spare tubing and steel. It worked great with some sand and bb's and
marbles.

Steve


'course, Iggy hasn't told us how many hundred gallons the tank is, yet :-)


Mark Rand
RTFM

On 2009-12-14, Mark Rand wrote:
On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 14:57:46 -0800, "Steve B"
wrote:


"Rich Grise" wrote in message
news
On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 14:49:01 -0600, Ignoramus22753 wrote:

I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of
grueling labor.

Any ideas?

I can't help you with this, but I'd strongly recommend checking the inside
of the tank for rust as well. I don't have any idea what you'd do if there
is any, maybe fill the tank with Naval Jelly, drop in some BBs, and shake
it?

Good Luck!
Rich

I built a simple tumbler to tumble my welder gas tank. I built it out of a
unit that turns the rotisserie on a bbq. Total cost for motor $1, and some
spare tubing and steel. It worked great with some sand and bb's and
marbles.

Steve


'course, Iggy hasn't told us how many hundred gallons the tank is, yet :-)

Exactly 100 gallons. 24x24x48 inches tank on legs.

i

On Sat, 12 Dec 2009 14:49:01 -0600, the infamous Ignoramus22753
scrawled the following:

I have a rectangular fuel tank that has some rust and flaking paint.

I want to remove both and re-prime and repaint, so that the tank looks
less menacing.

Attempts to do it with a wire brush on a 4.5" angle grinder were kind
of successful, but too slow and painful.

I would like to find a better way. I heard that some flap type disks
are better than wire brushes and are particularly good at this task.

I would not mind paying extra $$ for one if I can save two hours of
grueling labor.

Any ideas?

Yeah, flap disks on your 4-1/2" angle grinder work well, but strip it
first, eh? Don't make a sander take paint off if you can help it. A
good knot brush ought to work fairly quickly, too, after stripping.

What final finish will go on the tank? That may determine your best
cleanup method.

--
Don't forget the 7 P's:
Proper Prior Planning Prevents ****-Poor Performance

On Mon, 14 Dec 2009 23:29:22 +0000, the infamous Mark Rand
scrawled the following:

'course, Iggy hasn't told us how many hundred gallons the tank is, yet :-)

Didn't he just say he wanted to transport a 200-or-sumpin' gallon tank
and ask about weights and slosh factors?

--
Every day above ground is a Good Day(tm).
-----------