My good neighbors asked for my help. They have an old refrigerator (an
ugly beast), lying on the floor of their basement. It needs to be
taken out. It is too heavy and big to be taken out by two guys. So
they asked me to cut it in half, and I agreed. (I will also remove the
motor)

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

My plan is to just take my 4.5" angle grinder, for which I have a few
4" HF disks, and cut through the outer layer around the "waist" of the
refrigerator (in the middle).

The fridge seems to be made of spot welded sheetmetal.

Would a grinder like this work at all? It is a decent little grinder,
as such, but the fridge is pretty big.

No O/A, plasma cutting tools, directed energy space weapons are available.

I could also go to HD and buy 7.25" disks for my circular saw, but I
worry about damage to bearings.

As a side note, I also have a 7" angle grinder that I bought from
traveling salesmen for next to nothing (Cummins Tools, they travel
with big trailer trucks), but I am a little afraid to use it due to
who I bought it from and for how much. But if anyone reports any good
experiences about it, maybe I should get a couple of disks for it
instead of the 4.5" grinder.

i

On Tue, 16 May 2006 18:39:30 GMT, Ignoramus19822 wrote:
My good neighbors asked for my help. They have an old refrigerator (an
ugly beast), lying on the floor of their basement. It needs to be
taken out. It is too heavy and big to be taken out by two guys. So
they asked me to cut it in half, and I agreed. (I will also remove the
motor)

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

I'd use a sawzall rather than any kind of grinder.

No O/A, plasma cutting tools, directed energy space weapons are available.

Photon torpedos maybe?

But seriously, for sheet metal work, the sawzall is a better tool for
the job than a grinder. Much less messy, not as noisy, more
controllable...

If you don't have one, another 10 ounce silver bar would do it for ya -
got any more of that size by the way? The one I bought from you is
lonely.

On 16 May 2006 18:43:41 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:
On Tue, 16 May 2006 18:39:30 GMT, Ignoramus19822 wrote:
My good neighbors asked for my help. They have an old refrigerator (an
ugly beast), lying on the floor of their basement. It needs to be
taken out. It is too heavy and big to be taken out by two guys. So
they asked me to cut it in half, and I agreed. (I will also remove the
motor)

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

I'd use a sawzall rather than any kind of grinder.

I have a compressed air powered sawzall. I have a total of 200 ft air
hose, and I think that it is not enough to get to their basement.

No O/A, plasma cutting tools, directed energy space weapons are available.

Photon torpedos maybe?

But seriously, for sheet metal work, the sawzall is a better tool for
the job than a grinder. Much less messy, not as noisy, more
controllable...

If you don't have one, another 10 ounce silver bar would do it for ya -
got any more of that size by the way? The one I bought from you is
lonely.


I actually found another 10 oz bar. I know that I sound quite stupid not
knowing exactly how many little bars I have, but in reality I feel no
need to remember it too well.

Anyway... Given that I do not have an electric sawzall, would a
grinder work at all?


i

In article , ignoramus19822
@NOSPAM.19822.invalid says...
My good neighbors asked for my help. They have an old refrigerator (an
ugly beast), lying on the floor of their basement. It needs to be
taken out. It is too heavy and big to be taken out by two guys. So
they asked me to cut it in half, and I agreed. (I will also remove the
motor)

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

My plan is to just take my 4.5" angle grinder, for which I have a few
4" HF disks, and cut through the outer layer around the "waist" of the
refrigerator (in the middle).

The fridge seems to be made of spot welded sheetmetal.


As long as all you need to cut is sheetmetal, plastic and insulation an
old non-carbide blade turned around backwards in your circular saw will
work. It's an old farmer's trick for cutting metal roofing. Hearing
protection and face shield mandatory.

Ned Simmons

"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 16 May 2006 18:39:30 GMT, Ignoramus19822
wrote:
My good neighbors asked for my help. They have an old refrigerator (an
ugly beast), lying on the floor of their basement. It needs to be
taken out. It is too heavy and big to be taken out by two guys. So
they asked me to cut it in half, and I agreed. (I will also remove the
motor)

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

I'd use a sawzall rather than any kind of grinder.

Yeah... or go back and review your fears about the circular saw. A cheap
'nail cutter' carbide blade and decent face/eye/arm protection, and you
could have (halve) that thing in a few minutes.

LLoyd

On Tue, 16 May 2006 18:56:02 GMT, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...

I'd use a sawzall rather than any kind of grinder.

Yeah... or go back and review your fears about the circular saw. A cheap
'nail cutter' carbide blade and decent face/eye/arm protection, and you
could have (halve) that thing in a few minutes.

Perhaps, but it leaves really sharp swarf which, if this is a living
area, might be unwelcome. Also how will a circular saw blade behave
with insulation, I wonder?

I think this is a recipricating saw situation, I really do.

Remove the door, the compressor, internal racks . . . then anyone can move
it . . .



"Ignoramus19822" wrote in message
...
My good neighbors asked for my help. They have an old refrigerator (an
ugly beast), lying on the floor of their basement. It needs to be
taken out. It is too heavy and big to be taken out by two guys. So
they asked me to cut it in half, and I agreed. (I will also remove the
motor)

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

My plan is to just take my 4.5" angle grinder, for which I have a few
4" HF disks, and cut through the outer layer around the "waist" of the
refrigerator (in the middle).

The fridge seems to be made of spot welded sheetmetal.

Would a grinder like this work at all? It is a decent little grinder,
as such, but the fridge is pretty big.

No O/A, plasma cutting tools, directed energy space weapons are available.

I could also go to HD and buy 7.25" disks for my circular saw, but I
worry about damage to bearings.

As a side note, I also have a 7" angle grinder that I bought from
traveling salesmen for next to nothing (Cummins Tools, they travel
with big trailer trucks), but I am a little afraid to use it due to
who I bought it from and for how much. But if anyone reports any good
experiences about it, maybe I should get a couple of disks for it
instead of the 4.5" grinder.

i

On Tue, 16 May 2006 14:22:30 -0500, Steve DeMars wrote:
Remove the door, the compressor, internal racks . . . then anyone can move
it . . .

I did not spend much time near it, but it is very heavy even without
that stuff (I tried to lift it from the top side). It is very old

i


"Ignoramus19822" wrote in message
...
My good neighbors asked for my help. They have an old refrigerator (an
ugly beast), lying on the floor of their basement. It needs to be
taken out. It is too heavy and big to be taken out by two guys. So
they asked me to cut it in half, and I agreed. (I will also remove the
motor)

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

My plan is to just take my 4.5" angle grinder, for which I have a few
4" HF disks, and cut through the outer layer around the "waist" of the
refrigerator (in the middle).

The fridge seems to be made of spot welded sheetmetal.

Would a grinder like this work at all? It is a decent little grinder,
as such, but the fridge is pretty big.

No O/A, plasma cutting tools, directed energy space weapons are available.

I could also go to HD and buy 7.25" disks for my circular saw, but I
worry about damage to bearings.

As a side note, I also have a 7" angle grinder that I bought from
traveling salesmen for next to nothing (Cummins Tools, they travel
with big trailer trucks), but I am a little afraid to use it due to
who I bought it from and for how much. But if anyone reports any good
experiences about it, maybe I should get a couple of disks for it
instead of the 4.5" grinder.

i

Ignoramus19822 wrote:

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

Here's the real low-tech tool for the job:
http://www.hazet.de/eng/katalog/suche_3.asp?F=1960&H=100&U=700. You
only need a hammer. Slices sheet-metal like butter. I have mine since 30
years.


Nick
--
DIY-DRO // Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige
Available now in USA / Canada
http://www.yadro.de

On Tue, 16 May 2006 12:38:45 -0700, newsman wrote:
Be careful about releasing refrigerant. If it's not too horribly old,
it's probably got Freon (R-12) in it. By law, you're supposed to
recover it, not release it; however, I'm not preaching about law here
but safety. Freon is non-toxic but it does displace air, so in an
enclosed space, there could be an oxygen shortage if too much air is
displaced. In addition, when the stuff spews out suddenly, it can
freeze anything it hits, including skin and eyeballs.

Now, if the frig is really old, the refrigerant could be very
interesting. Some oldies used ammonia or sulfur dioxide. If you
release this stuff in a basement, you won't forget it if you live
through it.

Just when did they switch to Freon?

i

Mike


Ignoramus19822 wrote:
My good neighbors asked for my help. They have an old refrigerator (an
ugly beast), lying on the floor of their basement. It needs to be
taken out. It is too heavy and big to be taken out by two guys. So
they asked me to cut it in half, and I agreed. (I will also remove the
motor)

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

My plan is to just take my 4.5" angle grinder, for which I have a few
4" HF disks, and cut through the outer layer around the "waist" of the
refrigerator (in the middle).

The fridge seems to be made of spot welded sheetmetal.

Would a grinder like this work at all? It is a decent little grinder,
as such, but the fridge is pretty big.

No O/A, plasma cutting tools, directed energy space weapons are available.

I could also go to HD and buy 7.25" disks for my circular saw, but I
worry about damage to bearings.

As a side note, I also have a 7" angle grinder that I bought from
traveling salesmen for next to nothing (Cummins Tools, they travel
with big trailer trucks), but I am a little afraid to use it due to
who I bought it from and for how much. But if anyone reports any good
experiences about it, maybe I should get a couple of disks for it
instead of the 4.5" grinder.

i

Be careful about releasing refrigerant. If it's not too horribly old,
it's probably got Freon (R-12) in it. By law, you're supposed to
recover it, not release it; however, I'm not preaching about law here
but safety. Freon is non-toxic but it does displace air, so in an
enclosed space, there could be an oxygen shortage if too much air is
displaced. In addition, when the stuff spews out suddenly, it can
freeze anything it hits, including skin and eyeballs.

Now, if the frig is really old, the refrigerant could be very
interesting. Some oldies used ammonia or sulfur dioxide. If you
release this stuff in a basement, you won't forget it if you live
through it.

Mike


Ignoramus19822 wrote:
My good neighbors asked for my help. They have an old refrigerator (an
ugly beast), lying on the floor of their basement. It needs to be
taken out. It is too heavy and big to be taken out by two guys. So
they asked me to cut it in half, and I agreed. (I will also remove the
motor)

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

My plan is to just take my 4.5" angle grinder, for which I have a few
4" HF disks, and cut through the outer layer around the "waist" of the
refrigerator (in the middle).

The fridge seems to be made of spot welded sheetmetal.

Would a grinder like this work at all? It is a decent little grinder,
as such, but the fridge is pretty big.

No O/A, plasma cutting tools, directed energy space weapons are available.

I could also go to HD and buy 7.25" disks for my circular saw, but I
worry about damage to bearings.

As a side note, I also have a 7" angle grinder that I bought from
traveling salesmen for next to nothing (Cummins Tools, they travel
with big trailer trucks), but I am a little afraid to use it due to
who I bought it from and for how much. But if anyone reports any good
experiences about it, maybe I should get a couple of disks for it
instead of the 4.5" grinder.

i

Ignoramus19822 wrote:
On Tue, 16 May 2006 18:56:02 GMT, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...

On Tue, 16 May 2006 18:39:30 GMT, Ignoramus19822
wrote:

My good neighbors asked for my help. They have an old refrigerator (an
ugly beast), lying on the floor of their basement. It needs to be
taken out. It is too heavy and big to be taken out by two guys. So
they asked me to cut it in half, and I agreed. (I will also remove the
motor)

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

I'd use a sawzall rather than any kind of grinder.

Yeah... or go back and review your fears about the circular saw. A cheap
'nail cutter' carbide blade and decent face/eye/arm protection, and you
could have (halve) that thing in a few minutes.


How about abrasive blades?

I think that you are right, I will stop by Home Depot and will ask to
buy a decent blade for this. Much easier with a circular saw. If there
is fiberglass insulation inside, I could set up the saw to not
penetrate it too much.

Whatever you do, we'll need to see some
pictures of the result.

On Tue, 16 May 2006 21:27:07 +0200, Nick Müller wrote:
Ignoramus19822 wrote:

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

Here's the real low-tech tool for the job:
http://www.hazet.de/eng/katalog/suche_3.asp?F=1960&H=100&U=700. You
only need a hammer. Slices sheet-metal like butter. I have mine since 30
years.

There you go. Air powered hammer. But you'd need more airhose. I've
got maybe 100 feet of it that I don't need but it'd be pretty slow
flowing by the time you got to the other end, I think.

I cut a file cabinet in half with an air chisel. The kind you use to
separate exhaust system parts. That was one thick cabinet. Took about 5
minutes. Was extremely loud but no flying bits of metal.
There is foam insulation that might catch fire if you use a grinder

On Tue, 16 May 2006 19:38:40 GMT, Ignoramus19822 wrote:

Just when did they switch to Freon?

I _think_ the sulpher dioxide (?) ones have that big circular coil
arrangement on the top?

I would think that there would be some sort of label on the compressor.
But if you leave that whole thing intact you shouldn't have to worry
about it. Does it work (chill)? If not, all the whatever may have
already been gone long ago.

On Tue, 16 May 2006 12:40:03 -0700, Jim Stewart wrote:
Ignoramus19822 wrote:
On Tue, 16 May 2006 18:56:02 GMT, Lloyd E. Sponenburgh wrote:

"Dave Hinz" wrote in message
...

On Tue, 16 May 2006 18:39:30 GMT, Ignoramus19822
wrote:

My good neighbors asked for my help. They have an old refrigerator (an
ugly beast), lying on the floor of their basement. It needs to be
taken out. It is too heavy and big to be taken out by two guys. So
they asked me to cut it in half, and I agreed. (I will also remove the
motor)

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

I'd use a sawzall rather than any kind of grinder.

Yeah... or go back and review your fears about the circular saw. A cheap
'nail cutter' carbide blade and decent face/eye/arm protection, and you
could have (halve) that thing in a few minutes.


How about abrasive blades?

I think that you are right, I will stop by Home Depot and will ask to
buy a decent blade for this. Much easier with a circular saw. If there
is fiberglass insulation inside, I could set up the saw to not
penetrate it too much.

Whatever you do, we'll need to see some
pictures of the result.



Will try to make some...

i

On Tue, 16 May 2006 13:00:49 -0700, daniel peterman wrote:
I cut a file cabinet in half with an air chisel. The kind you use to
separate exhaust system parts. That was one thick cabinet. Took about 5
minutes. Was extremely loud but no flying bits of metal.
There is foam insulation that might catch fire if you use a grinder


Hm, I do have an air chisel. The compressor is a bit too far though, I
think that I would need 300 ft of hose, I have only 200.

i

Dave Hinz wrote:

http://www.hazet.de/eng/katalog/suche_3.asp?F=1960&H=100&U=700.
There you go. Air powered hammer.

But without air. It's just some kind of "knife" that gets hammered with
a ... hammer! :-)
Can be used in the dark, on any island or continent, without power cord,
no need for gas, batteries, radioactivity or gravity. It's old-fashined,
a berserk-tool, but effective.
I used it for body-work.


Nick

--
DIY-DRO // Eigenbau-Digitalanzeige
Available now in USA / Canada
http://www.yadro.de

On Tue, 16 May 2006 22:39:15 +0200, Nick Müller wrote:
Dave Hinz wrote:

http://www.hazet.de/eng/katalog/suche_3.asp?F=1960&H=100&U=700.
There you go. Air powered hammer.

But without air. It's just some kind of "knife" that gets hammered with
a ... hammer! :-)
Can be used in the dark, on any island or continent, without power cord,
no need for gas, batteries, radioactivity or gravity. It's old-fashined,
a berserk-tool, but effective.
I used it for body-work.

Ah. Igor, how about one of these...I've been meaning to put it on eBay
but I could send it to you first - The "Pry Ax" from Paratech:
http://www.botac.com/paratechpryax.html

Pretty sure I can locate it tonight & box it up for tomorrow. So here's
how it works. You smack first with the pointy part, to make a hole.
Flip it to use the axe-head side to make the hole into a slot. THen, go
in with the lobster-claw (I have the one on the right) and use it like
an old-fashioned can opener. Works great on car roofs, can't imagine a
refrigerator would be substantially different. You just pull up, it
cuts the slot another inch or two, and hten you slide it forward and
repeat. Seriously, I can go across a car roof in like 30 seconds,
minimal effort and similar construction. It's got the slide-hammer
action so you can force it in as a pry tool. Used it on a file cabinet
at work, but that was a bit overkill and left...some marks...

Serious though, if you want to try it, let me know. Anyone else have
comments on these little beasties?

Reminds me of a mate whose grandfather had died, the farm had to be
cleaned up somewhat and it had old cars in barns, hedges etc not to
mention the combines and other heavy stuff. They invited some local
gipsies in to take away the cars and light metal. He said the gipsies
just went at the cars with machete and reduced them to small pieces
quickly and took the bits away. He said it was frightening how
efficiently they reduced whole cars to pieces with just those large blades.

Nick Müller wrote:

Dave Hinz wrote:

http://www.hazet.de/eng/katalog/suche_3.asp?F=1960&H=100&U=700.

There you go. Air powered hammer.


But without air. It's just some kind of "knife" that gets hammered with
a ... hammer! :-)
Can be used in the dark, on any island or continent, without power cord,
no need for gas, batteries, radioactivity or gravity. It's old-fashined,
a berserk-tool, but effective.
I used it for body-work.


Nick

On Tue, 16 May 2006 20:18:40 GMT, Ignoramus19822
wrote:
On Tue, 16 May 2006 13:00:49 -0700, daniel peterman wrote:

I cut a file cabinet in half with an air chisel. The kind you use to
separate exhaust system parts. That was one thick cabinet. Took about 5
minutes. Was extremely loud but no flying bits of metal.
There is foam insulation that might catch fire if you use a grinder

Hm, I do have an air chisel. The compressor is a bit too far though, I
think that I would need 300 ft of hose, I have only 200.

So? Buy more hose - it's cheap. If you spend more than $25 for it,
you got ripped.

Air tools will work just fine even if you are out 500 feet of hose
or more, but for two concerns: One, too many quick-connect couplers
in the line will mess up the flow, so use all your 50' and 100' hoses,
and couple them with pipe fittings instead of quick connects where you
can.

And Two, whenever you are out past 100' of hose you need to rig up
an air receiver tank out at the far end of the line - it will easily
make up for that long hose. The tank supplies volume burst for the
tool, and the tank is refilling through the long hose slow but steady.

Use an old portable compressor receiver, and plumb it in series with
a short line feeding the air tools.

I use an old steel Scuba tank for a remote receiver, with a Cross
fitting for in, out, tank and gauge. (I really should go get a
current hydro for it, but I'm not worrying a whole lot about a 3,000
PSI rated tank running at 100 - 125.)

Someone else already brought up being very careful about releasing
the Freon, Ammonia, H2S or other "Methyl Ethyl Bad-Stuff" they might
have used for a refrigerant. You can also find Propane, Butane and
other really flammable stuff used as a refrigerant, and that gets real
exciting if you hit the line with a hot wrench...

-- Bruce --

--
Bruce L. Bergman, Woodland Hills (Los Angeles) CA - Desktop
Electrician for Westend Electric - CA726700
5737 Kanan Rd. #359, Agoura CA 91301 (818) 889-9545
Spamtrapped address: Remove the python and the invalid, and use a net.

Thanks Dave. I got the fridge cut in half. It was a bitch of a job, or
maybe I am out of shape. A lot of stink also came out. Everything was
full of blue smoke. I used the following tools: gas mask, circular saw
with blade for steel, 4.5" angle grinder, air chisel (got air from
contractors who were doing her floor), sledgehammer, and some 4x4 for
"breaking its back".

i

On Wed, 17 May 2006 01:52:46 GMT, Ignoramus19822 wrote:
Thanks Dave. I got the fridge cut in half. It was a bitch of a job, or
maybe I am out of shape. A lot of stink also came out. Everything was
full of blue smoke. I used the following tools: gas mask, circular saw
with blade for steel, 4.5" angle grinder, air chisel (got air from
contractors who were doing her floor), sledgehammer, and some 4x4 for
"breaking its back".

You sure know how to have fun, Iggy. Good news is I just found the
Pry-Ax, and will be listing it on Saturday or Sunday. 15 or so years of
fire & EMS, given the current politics in our department, is more than
enough. I bought the stuff meself, I'm selling it for meself.

The walls are likely filled with foam of some sort.

I'd look at taking off the outer skin first.
Might be easier than thought of .

e.g. - rather than do a junk yard trash it - take it apart for smaller
parts - cut what doesn't seem to work... save what you want.
Scrap the copper tubes - and hum - freon ?
Caution - the freon is poisonous in a flame... hot water heater ?

Martin

Martin Eastburn
@ home at Lions' Lair with our computer lionslair at consolidated dot net
NRA LOH & Endowment Member
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder
IHMSA and NRA Metallic Silhouette maker & member


Ignoramus19822 wrote:
My good neighbors asked for my help. They have an old refrigerator (an
ugly beast), lying on the floor of their basement. It needs to be
taken out. It is too heavy and big to be taken out by two guys. So
they asked me to cut it in half, and I agreed. (I will also remove the
motor)

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

My plan is to just take my 4.5" angle grinder, for which I have a few
4" HF disks, and cut through the outer layer around the "waist" of the
refrigerator (in the middle).

The fridge seems to be made of spot welded sheetmetal.

Would a grinder like this work at all? It is a decent little grinder,
as such, but the fridge is pretty big.

No O/A, plasma cutting tools, directed energy space weapons are available.

I could also go to HD and buy 7.25" disks for my circular saw, but I
worry about damage to bearings.

As a side note, I also have a 7" angle grinder that I bought from
traveling salesmen for next to nothing (Cummins Tools, they travel
with big trailer trucks), but I am a little afraid to use it due to
who I bought it from and for how much. But if anyone reports any good
experiences about it, maybe I should get a couple of disks for it
instead of the 4.5" grinder.

i



----== Posted via Newsfeeds.Com - Unlimited-Unrestricted-Secure Usenet News==----
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In article ,
Ignoramus19822 wrote:

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

A hatchet and lots of repressed anger. Seriously, I've scrapped a
bunch of old appliances with my trusty Estwing.

--
B.B. --I am not a goat! thegoat4 at airmail dot net

On 16 May 2006 21:02:36 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

On Tue, 16 May 2006 22:39:15 +0200, Nick Müller wrote:
Dave Hinz wrote:

http://www.hazet.de/eng/katalog/suche_3.asp?F=1960&H=100&U=700.
There you go. Air powered hammer.

But without air. It's just some kind of "knife" that gets hammered with
a ... hammer! :-)
Can be used in the dark, on any island or continent, without power cord,
no need for gas, batteries, radioactivity or gravity. It's old-fashined,
a berserk-tool, but effective.
I used it for body-work.

Ah. Igor, how about one of these...I've been meaning to put it on eBay
but I could send it to you first - The "Pry Ax" from Paratech:
http://www.botac.com/paratechpryax.html

Pretty sure I can locate it tonight & box it up for tomorrow. So here's
how it works. You smack first with the pointy part, to make a hole.
Flip it to use the axe-head side to make the hole into a slot. THen, go
in with the lobster-claw (I have the one on the right) and use it like
an old-fashioned can opener. Works great on car roofs, can't imagine a
refrigerator would be substantially different. You just pull up, it
cuts the slot another inch or two, and hten you slide it forward and
repeat. Seriously, I can go across a car roof in like 30 seconds,
minimal effort and similar construction. It's got the slide-hammer
action so you can force it in as a pry tool. Used it on a file cabinet
at work, but that was a bit overkill and left...some marks...

Serious though, if you want to try it, let me know. Anyone else have
comments on these little beasties?


After Iggy is done with it..how much you gnna want for it? Ive wanted
one of those for years.

Gunner

"If thy pride is sorely vexed when others disparage your offering, be
as lamb's wool is to cold rain and the Gore-tex of Odin's raiment
is to gull**** in the gale, for thy angst shall vex them not at
all. Yea, they shall scorn thee all the more. Rejoice in
sharing what you have to share without expectation of adoration,
knowing that sharing your treasure does not diminish your treasure
but enriches it."

- Onni 1:33

On Tue, 16 May 2006 18:39:30 GMT, Ignoramus19822
wrote:

My good neighbors asked for my help. They have an old refrigerator (an
ugly beast), lying on the floor of their basement. It needs to be
taken out. It is too heavy and big to be taken out by two guys. So
they asked me to cut it in half, and I agreed. (I will also remove the
motor)

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

My plan is to just take my 4.5" angle grinder, for which I have a few
4" HF disks, and cut through the outer layer around the "waist" of the
refrigerator (in the middle).

The fridge seems to be made of spot welded sheetmetal.

Would a grinder like this work at all? It is a decent little grinder,
as such, but the fridge is pretty big.

No O/A, plasma cutting tools, directed energy space weapons are available.

I could also go to HD and buy 7.25" disks for my circular saw, but I
worry about damage to bearings.

As a side note, I also have a 7" angle grinder that I bought from
traveling salesmen for next to nothing (Cummins Tools, they travel
with big trailer trucks), but I am a little afraid to use it due to
who I bought it from and for how much. But if anyone reports any good
experiences about it, maybe I should get a couple of disks for it
instead of the 4.5" grinder.

Ig, ya said you'd do it so now ya gotta do it any way you can. My
preferred instrument of demolition here would be a Sawz-All but ya
ride the horse ya brung. It could also be done with an axe.

I have cut up several big old side by sides with my trusty sawzall. It
actually goes pretty quick and I was able to salvage a lot of the sheet
metal in nice sized pieces for other projects.
Glenn
"Ignoramus19822" wrote in message
...
My good neighbors asked for my help. They have an old refrigerator (an
ugly beast), lying on the floor of their basement. It needs to be
taken out. It is too heavy and big to be taken out by two guys. So
they asked me to cut it in half, and I agreed. (I will also remove the
motor)

My question here is what is the best way to do it given what I have.

My plan is to just take my 4.5" angle grinder, for which I have a few
4" HF disks, and cut through the outer layer around the "waist" of the
refrigerator (in the middle).

The fridge seems to be made of spot welded sheetmetal.

Would a grinder like this work at all? It is a decent little grinder,
as such, but the fridge is pretty big.

No O/A, plasma cutting tools, directed energy space weapons are available.

I could also go to HD and buy 7.25" disks for my circular saw, but I
worry about damage to bearings.

As a side note, I also have a 7" angle grinder that I bought from
traveling salesmen for next to nothing (Cummins Tools, they travel
with big trailer trucks), but I am a little afraid to use it due to
who I bought it from and for how much. But if anyone reports any good
experiences about it, maybe I should get a couple of disks for it
instead of the 4.5" grinder.

i

In article ,
Ignoramus19822 wrote:

On Tue, 16 May 2006 14:22:30 -0500, Steve DeMars wrote:
Remove the door, the compressor, internal racks . . . then anyone can move
it . . .

I did not spend much time near it, but it is very heavy even without
that stuff (I tried to lift it from the top side). It is very old

I moved one like that myself, VERY heavy but I used a carry-all etc.
After it was moved I noticed a drip, and tilted it several ways and it
dripped for weeks. Had a lot of water frozen in the fibre insulation,
and was still heavy after it dried.

--
Free men own guns, slaves don't
www.geocities.com/CapitolHill/5357/

On Wed, 17 May 2006 05:22:38 GMT, Gunner wrote:
On 16 May 2006 21:02:36 GMT, Dave Hinz wrote:

Ah. Igor, how about one of these...I've been meaning to put it on eBay
but I could send it to you first - The "Pry Ax" from Paratech:
http://www.botac.com/paratechpryax.html

After Iggy is done with it..how much you gnna want for it? Ive wanted
one of those for years.

He doesn't need it. But I dunno, they retail for $210 or so (yikes),
I've seen 'em for 180. For you, 100 bucks maybe? I've got a bunch of
that .30-06 LC National Match brass yet if you want too, not sure what
the going rate would be on that. Send me an email, my address is real.

On Wed, 17 May 2006 09:38:06 GMT, Nick Hull wrote:

I moved one like that myself, VERY heavy but I used a carry-all etc.
After it was moved I noticed a drip, and tilted it several ways and it
dripped for weeks. Had a lot of water frozen in the fibre insulation,
and was still heavy after it dried.

That's also something to consider when moving an old water heater.
Replaced an ancient one in my last house, drained it but it was just
awfully heavy. Thought a bit, and turned the water supply back on with
the hose bib on the bottom open. All the accumulated sludge, took a
while to come out, but there must have been gallons of gunk in there
that had never been flushed out (probably why the tank started leaking)?

Things are lighter when they're empty.

Cool! It's a big can opener!

Nick Müller wrote:

Here's the real low-tech tool for the job:
http://www.hazet.de/eng/katalog/suche_3.asp?F=1960&H=100&U=700. You
only need a hammer. Slices sheet-metal like butter. I have mine since 30
years.


Nick

Ammonia refrigerators are still available.

Ignoramus19822 wrote:

Just when did they switch to Freon?

On Wed, 17 May 2006 10:08:30 -0500, Mike Berger wrote:
Ammonia refrigerators are still available.

I cut it in half already, there was some refrigerant, but not
much. There was so much stink and smoke from an overheated blade and
foam insulation, that I could not really tell whether refrigerant
contributed anything to that unpleasantness. I was wearing a 3M
respirator/gas mask, so it was hard to tell the smell -- the mask was
good at trapping bad gases.

i

Ignoramus19822 wrote:

Just when did they switch to Freon?