Gents,

I'm in a bit of a bind and I'm too blind to see a solution. I'm hoping
someone here can set me straight.

I built a cart for my Hardinge TM and need to get the TM on it. The cart
is made of heavy angle and box channel, and I used 6" wide pieces of 6x8
angle for the caster mounts. The mounts ride outboard of the cart, and
the top of the mounts rides higher than the bed of the cart - by design
- so that the mill will only be 5" off the ground when transferred.

I'm trying to figure out a way to get the mill on the cart without:

1. Building a gantry
2. Modifying an engine hoist so I can get the legs around the outside of
the mill
3. Hiring a wrecker
4. Breaking any bones

Since I gave the cart a nice paint job, I'd also prefer a method that
will limit damage to the paint on the cart.

I have the mill resting on a couple of 4x4s, and can easily get her a
bit higher. Tha challenge here is how do I transfer the mill from the
wooden platform to the cart without killing myself.

I was going to build a small gantry until the price of steel went
through the roof here.

I'm sure there is a solution, but I've been staring at this so long I've
developed a brain cramp. Any thoughts are appreciated.

--
Regards,

Rick

(Remove the HIGH SPOTS for e-mail)

"Rick Chamberlain" wrote in message
...
Gents,

I'm in a bit of a bind and I'm too blind to see a solution. I'm hoping
someone here can set me straight.

I built a cart for my Hardinge TM and need to get the TM on it. The cart
is made of heavy angle and box channel, and I used 6" wide pieces of 6x8
angle for the caster mounts. The mounts ride outboard of the cart, and
the top of the mounts rides higher than the bed of the cart - by design
- so that the mill will only be 5" off the ground when transferred.

I'm trying to figure out a way to get the mill on the cart without:

1. Building a gantry
2. Modifying an engine hoist so I can get the legs around the outside of
the mill
3. Hiring a wrecker
4. Breaking any bones

Since I gave the cart a nice paint job, I'd also prefer a method that
will limit damage to the paint on the cart.

I have the mill resting on a couple of 4x4s, and can easily get her a
bit higher. Tha challenge here is how do I transfer the mill from the
wooden platform to the cart without killing myself.

I was going to build a small gantry until the price of steel went
through the roof here.

I'm sure there is a solution, but I've been staring at this so long I've
developed a brain cramp. Any thoughts are appreciated.

--
Regards,

Rick

(Remove the HIGH SPOTS for e-mail)

Here is how you do it.

1. You already have the machine on 4X4's. If they are longer than the
cart is
wide then raise the $X$'s up on blocks at the ends. Raise it high enough
that the cart
can be slid under the machine. The machine is now suspended over the cart.

2. Now support the machine by other blocks that are in the center opening
of the cart.
the machine may be unstable at this point so tie it down such that it cannot
topple over.
Now remove the 4X4's

3. Remove the supports that now support the machine and lower it onto the
cart.

Every time I move a machine I always tie it to something that can support it
if it
begins to topple or slip. It has saved a number of machines.

Another thing; I always psych my self up to run away if something goes
wrong.
This counteracts my natural inclination to try to stop something from
falling.
I have moved Bridgeport's and 1000 LBS. lathes single handled. I don't
want
help. I would never trust someone else with the all important "run away"
part of moving
heavy machines.

Pete.

Four men and a boy (to roll the cart under the mill)?
David




"Rick Chamberlain" wrote in message
...
Gents,

I'm in a bit of a bind and I'm too blind to see a solution. I'm hoping
someone here can set me straight.

I built a cart for my Hardinge TM and need to get the TM on it. The cart
is made of heavy angle and box channel, and I used 6" wide pieces of 6x8
angle for the caster mounts. The mounts ride outboard of the cart, and
the top of the mounts rides higher than the bed of the cart - by design
- so that the mill will only be 5" off the ground when transferred.

I'm trying to figure out a way to get the mill on the cart without:

1. Building a gantry
2. Modifying an engine hoist so I can get the legs around the outside of
the mill
3. Hiring a wrecker
4. Breaking any bones

Since I gave the cart a nice paint job, I'd also prefer a method that
will limit damage to the paint on the cart.

I have the mill resting on a couple of 4x4s, and can easily get her a
bit higher. Tha challenge here is how do I transfer the mill from the
wooden platform to the cart without killing myself.

I was going to build a small gantry until the price of steel went
through the roof here.

I'm sure there is a solution, but I've been staring at this so long I've
developed a brain cramp. Any thoughts are appreciated.

--
Regards,

Rick

(Remove the HIGH SPOTS for e-mail)

Rick Chamberlain wrote:


I'm sure there is a solution, but I've been staring at this so long I've
developed a brain cramp. Any thoughts are appreciated.



Lift with your knees.

Tim

--
No BoomBoom for me! -

Rick Chamberlain writes:

I have the mill resting on a couple of 4x4s, and can easily get her a
bit higher. Tha challenge here is how do I transfer the mill from the
wooden platform to the cart without killing myself.

Jacking or other single-point lifting from below is inherently unstable and
therefore risky in unforeseeable ways. Avoid jacking, but if you must
jack, constrain tipping with adequate rigging before you jack.

Otherwise:

http://www.truetex.com/moveclausing.htm

I've used a comealong [sp?] like this:

http://www.centralonlinesales.com/sh...uct.asp?ID=440

to lift a 500 lb combination sheetmetal machine onto a stand. I hooked it
over a rafter in my garage near a supported end but 900 lb is probably a bit
much for that.

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"


"Rick Chamberlain" wrote in message
...
Gents,

I'm in a bit of a bind and I'm too blind to see a solution. I'm hoping
someone here can set me straight.

I built a cart for my Hardinge TM and need to get the TM on it. The cart
is made of heavy angle and box channel, and I used 6" wide pieces of 6x8
angle for the caster mounts. The mounts ride outboard of the cart, and
the top of the mounts rides higher than the bed of the cart - by design
- so that the mill will only be 5" off the ground when transferred.

I'm trying to figure out a way to get the mill on the cart without:

1. Building a gantry
2. Modifying an engine hoist so I can get the legs around the outside of
the mill
3. Hiring a wrecker
4. Breaking any bones

Since I gave the cart a nice paint job, I'd also prefer a method that
will limit damage to the paint on the cart.

I have the mill resting on a couple of 4x4s, and can easily get her a
bit higher. Tha challenge here is how do I transfer the mill from the
wooden platform to the cart without killing myself.

I was going to build a small gantry until the price of steel went
through the roof here.

I'm sure there is a solution, but I've been staring at this so long I've
developed a brain cramp. Any thoughts are appreciated.

--
Regards,

Rick

(Remove the HIGH SPOTS for e-mail)

"Keith Marshall" wrote: (clip) to lift a 500 lb combination sheetmetal
machine onto a stand. I hooked it over a rafter in my garage near a
supported end but 900 lb is probably a bit much for that.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
So, how about TWO comealongs? And, since you might also be worried about
the rafter, I suggest putting a cross member on top of several rafters, and
lifting from that, to spread the load. It should also be possible to cut a
couple of 2 x 4's to run between the floor and the rafter, to help support
it. A couple of shingles under each one could be used to get a little
preload.

In article , Rick Chamberlain
says...

I built a cart for my Hardinge TM and need to get the TM on it.

If all else fails, break the machine down into pieces. This is how
I re-assembled my UM in my basement shop after sliding the parts
down the stairs.

Sheet metal base goes on first, with the chip pan next. The
chip pan is suprisingly heavy. Then I used a come-along
tied to an overhead rafter to lift the column, which is the
single heaviest part, onto the base. For safety sake I blocked
under the rafter with 4x4 supports. Lift the column with slings
under the overarm.

Add on the knee, table, motor and you are done. To do this
you will of course need to remove the spindle to remove the
belts between the c'shaft and the spindle. But if you've
re-done the machine you already know all about that stuff.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

1) BORROW (? rent) a gantry.

--------

A hydraulic high lift cart -- or two!

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41145

Al

===============

Rick Chamberlain wrote:

Gents,

I'm in a bit of a bind and I'm too blind to see a solution. I'm hoping
someone here can set me straight.

I built a cart for my Hardinge TM and need to get the TM on it. The cart
is made of heavy angle and box channel, and I used 6" wide pieces of 6x8
angle for the caster mounts. The mounts ride outboard of the cart, and
the top of the mounts rides higher than the bed of the cart - by design
- so that the mill will only be 5" off the ground when transferred.

I'm trying to figure out a way to get the mill on the cart without:

1. Building a gantry
2. Modifying an engine hoist so I can get the legs around the outside of
the mill
3. Hiring a wrecker
4. Breaking any bones

Since I gave the cart a nice paint job, I'd also prefer a method that
will limit damage to the paint on the cart.

I have the mill resting on a couple of 4x4s, and can easily get her a
bit higher. Tha challenge here is how do I transfer the mill from the
wooden platform to the cart without killing myself.

I was going to build a small gantry until the price of steel went
through the roof here.

I'm sure there is a solution, but I've been staring at this so long I've
developed a brain cramp. Any thoughts are appreciated.

So, how about TWO comealongs? And, since you might also be worried about
the rafter, I suggest putting a cross member on top of several rafters,
and
lifting from that, to spread the load. It should also be possible to cut
a
couple of 2 x 4's to run between the floor and the rafter, to help support
it. A couple of shingles under each one could be used to get a little
preload.

A single comealong should be OK as long as it's rated to LIFT that much
weight. A 1-ton is probably only rated to drag that much, not to lift it.
The one I provided a link to was called a 4-ton but was only rated to lift 2
tons.

I did use a piece of 2" square tubing as an upright to reinforce the rafter
but I like your idea of bridging across several with a cross member.

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"


"Leo Lichtman" wrote in message
...

"Keith Marshall" wrote: (clip) to lift a 500 lb combination sheetmetal
machine onto a stand. I hooked it over a rafter in my garage near a
supported end but 900 lb is probably a bit much for that.
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
So, how about TWO comealongs? And, since you might also be worried about
the rafter, I suggest putting a cross member on top of several rafters,
and
lifting from that, to spread the load. It should also be possible to cut
a
couple of 2 x 4's to run between the floor and the rafter, to help support
it. A couple of shingles under each one could be used to get a little
preload.

You can make a gantry from wood and also tie to several rafters to insure
that it won't come down.
Aside from that, 4 brawny guys that have more muscle than brains will
together be able to lift the whole machine up the necessary distance.
You already have the machine up far enough that you should be able to slide
an engine hoist under the center part and, if it will go high enough or you
tie low enough, you will be able to lift it from the front or back high
enough to get on the cart that way. Just make sure that you lift from the
center of gravity.

--
Bob May
Losing weight is easy! If you ever want to lose weight, eat and drink less.
Works every time it is tried!

Borrow/rent another engine hoist and get a stout piece of angle iron. Burn
a hole in the flange near each end and put shackles through. Hook the ends
of this beam to the 2 engine hoists. Raise both hoists and roll them over
the machine, and rig it in the middle of the beam with a nylon strap rated
for a lot more than the machine weighs. Get a buddy to help you and just
lift it straight up and roll the table under it, then put it down. - GWE

Rick Chamberlain wrote in message ...
Gents,

I'm in a bit of a bind and I'm too blind to see a solution. I'm hoping
someone here can set me straight.

This is what I'd do. Continue to raise the mill to the correct height
to get the cart under it. It sounds like another set of 4x4s would
get it high enough. Go with 2x4s if you can, lower is better.

I'd next build some cribing (or make a frame) to support the mill at
each end of the table, keeping the cribing as close to the knee as
possible.

Next add cribing or other support frame to the rear of the ram, which
I'd extend backwards to give you good three point support.

Remove the present 4x4s and slide the cart under the mill.

If you've planned the location of your supports carefully, it's a
simple matter to lower the mill at each of the three support points
until it's on the cart.

When raising and lowering this much weight to that height, do your
lifts in very very small steps. I sometimes use 1/2" plywood blocks
to keep the "bites" small. Lift...insert plywood, lift...insert
another plywood, lift...replace plywood with 2x4, etc.

-=- Steven Harris

In article ,
says...
I've used a comealong [sp?] like this:

http://www.centralonlinesales.com/sh...uct.asp?ID=440

to lift a 500 lb combination sheetmetal machine onto a stand. I hooked it
over a rafter in my garage near a supported end but 900 lb is probably a bit
much for that.

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


Yeah, probably. Why did you even post this? Hanging 900 pounds from
the bottom cord of a 2X4 truss or rafter is *really* asking for trouble.
What you do in your own garage is your business, but hanging almost a
half ton with a come along from a garage rafter is the dumbest thing
I've heard of in quite awhile. Rafters and trusses are built for a TOP
load, not a bottom one.

In article , Steven says...

I'd next build some cribing (or make a frame) to support the mill at
each end of the table, keeping the cribing as close to the knee as
possible.

Bad idea. The elevating nut will not support the entire weight
of the machine, it *will* strip out. The knee lock can not
be relied on.

Next add cribing or other support frame to the rear of the ram, which
I'd extend backwards to give you good three point support.

No ram on this.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

Hi,

Let me first congratulate you on your "new to you" mill...it will be
well worth the struggle that you are undergoing currently.

There are a number of ways to approach this very common problem.

First, let me point out that safety is paramount. Remember that your
health is irreplaceable and if you cannot transfer the mill with a
satisfactory safety margin in place, then get assistance in what form
is needed. Even if you are doing this effort by yourself, have someone
standing by to call for help if problems arise. When a serious problem
occurs, it happens very quickly. Hard earned experience speaking here.

I know you mention that you would rather not build a gantry crane but
I can assure you that you will find a portable gantry crane to be one
of the most useful tools that you will ever have. It is one tool that
you will likely never get rid of so the initial cost will be spread
over a number of years to come.

You also might want to consider buying a gantry crane from Harbor
Freight where the shipping is free.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41188

What is the current cost of steel to build a comparable gantry crane
to the one shown at Harbor Freight?

I also note that a gantry crane with a limited span for such a mill
(~900lbs.) could be built out of wood.

I would strongly recommend NOT using any structural member within your
building as a lifting member. I have seen too many failures from such
attempts that have resulted in substantial damage to the building. The
cost of repairs were significant compared to what the cost of a
homemade gantry crane would have been.

I also would not recommend using a tree limb as a lifting point. In
the past, I have seen many trees that look sound but upon opening them
up they are riddled with insect damage, dry rot or internal defects
that would have made them an accident waiting to happen.

Another way that you can approach this problem is to modify your cart
so it can be taken apart, moved into place under the mill and then
reassembled. Without seeing your cart, it is impossible to say exactly
how to do the modification. I have done this a number of times with
carts of my own with minimal cost. Unfortunately it does mean you may
have to do some more painting. )

I would be interested in seeing pictures of your mill cart and hearing
the design details concerning the selection of the components and
materials. Could you post them in the dropbox for the benefit of the
group?

Good luck Rick and let us know how you finally do it.

TMT


Rick Chamberlain wrote in message ...
Gents,

I'm in a bit of a bind and I'm too blind to see a solution. I'm hoping
someone here can set me straight.

I built a cart for my Hardinge TM and need to get the TM on it. The cart
is made of heavy angle and box channel, and I used 6" wide pieces of 6x8
angle for the caster mounts. The mounts ride outboard of the cart, and
the top of the mounts rides higher than the bed of the cart - by design
- so that the mill will only be 5" off the ground when transferred.

I'm trying to figure out a way to get the mill on the cart without:

1. Building a gantry
2. Modifying an engine hoist so I can get the legs around the outside of
the mill
3. Hiring a wrecker
4. Breaking any bones

Since I gave the cart a nice paint job, I'd also prefer a method that
will limit damage to the paint on the cart.

I have the mill resting on a couple of 4x4s, and can easily get her a
bit higher. Tha challenge here is how do I transfer the mill from the
wooden platform to the cart without killing myself.

I was going to build a small gantry until the price of steel went
through the roof here.

I'm sure there is a solution, but I've been staring at this so long I've
developed a brain cramp. Any thoughts are appreciated.

What do you guys thing about using one of the shop cranes they have at
harbor freight?
such as one of these?

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=41187

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=46766

Reno, Paul

I'm trying to figure out a way to get the mill on the cart without:

2. Modifying an engine hoist so I can get the legs around the outside of
the mill

When I moved my UM, I used an engine hoist belonging to the former
owner to lift the mill from his garage floor on to a trailer. The
legs on that hoist were wide enough to straddle the mill. Perhaps you
can borrow a similar engine hoist.

Only 900 lbs, eh? Seemed like a lot more, sliding that thing down
planks over the cellar steps. I don't plan to move it back out in my
lifetime.

Alan

In article , Jim Kovar says...

Hanging 900 pounds from
the bottom cord of a 2X4 truss or rafter is *really* asking for trouble.

I did this but it was a rough-cut 2X10, *and* I put 4X4 bracing
under it on each side of teh lift.

Plus, I was only lifting the column at the time.

Jim

==================================================
please reply to:
JRR(zero) at yktvmv (dot) vnet (dot) ibm (dot) com
==================================================

Rick Chamberlain wrote:

Gents,

I'm in a bit of a bind and I'm too blind to see a solution. I'm hoping
someone here can set me straight.

I built a cart for my Hardinge TM and need to get the TM on it. The cart
is made of heavy angle and box channel, and I used 6" wide pieces of 6x8
angle for the caster mounts. The mounts ride outboard of the cart, and
the top of the mounts rides higher than the bed of the cart - by design
- so that the mill will only be 5" off the ground when transferred.

I'm trying to figure out a way to get the mill on the cart without:

1. Building a gantry
2. Modifying an engine hoist so I can get the legs around the outside of
the mill
3. Hiring a wrecker
4. Breaking any bones

Since I gave the cart a nice paint job, I'd also prefer a method that
will limit damage to the paint on the cart.

I have the mill resting on a couple of 4x4s, and can easily get her a
bit higher. Tha challenge here is how do I transfer the mill from the
wooden platform to the cart without killing myself.

I was going to build a small gantry until the price of steel went
through the roof here.

I'm sure there is a solution, but I've been staring at this so long I've
developed a brain cramp. Any thoughts are appreciated.

Tripod.

Yeah, probably. Why did you even post this?

To offer food for thought.

BTW, who said anything about a 2x4 truss? It was a 2x8 rafter and I placed
the comealong near the end support, a block wall, and reinforced it on the
other side of the comealong with a length of 2" square steel tubing between
it and the floor.

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


"I'm not grown up enough to be so old!"


"Jim Kovar" wrote in message
...
In article ,
says...
I've used a comealong [sp?] like this:

http://www.centralonlinesales.com/sh...uct.asp?ID=440

to lift a 500 lb combination sheetmetal machine onto a stand. I hooked
it
over a rafter in my garage near a supported end but 900 lb is probably a
bit
much for that.

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


Yeah, probably. Why did you even post this? Hanging 900 pounds from
the bottom cord of a 2X4 truss or rafter is *really* asking for trouble.
What you do in your own garage is your business, but hanging almost a
half ton with a come along from a garage rafter is the dumbest thing
I've heard of in quite awhile. Rafters and trusses are built for a TOP
load, not a bottom one.

On Mon, 15 Mar 2004 18:24:59 -0600, Jim Kovar
brought forth from the murky depths:

In article ,
says...
I've used a comealong [sp?] like this:

http://www.centralonlinesales.com/sh...uct.asp?ID=440

to lift a 500 lb combination sheetmetal machine onto a stand. I hooked it
over a rafter in my garage near a supported end but 900 lb is probably a bit
much for that.

Best Regards,
Keith Marshall


Yeah, probably. Why did you even post this? Hanging 900 pounds from
the bottom cord of a 2X4 truss or rafter is *really* asking for trouble.
What you do in your own garage is your business, but hanging almost a
half ton with a come along from a garage rafter is the dumbest thing
I've heard of in quite awhile. Rafters and trusses are built for a TOP
load, not a bottom one.

It's less of a load if you run a 4x4 perpendicular to
them, hook the strap over that, and use support 4x4s
on either side of the load to keep most of the load
off the trusses, but ya gotta be careful to distribute
the load.

To get my (mere) 225 lb bandsaw onto the mobile base alone,
I tilted it over onto a milk crate, levered the bottom up,
and lowered it down onto the base. That limited my handling
to 75 lbs or so.

----
- Nice perfume. Must you marinate in it? -
http://diversify.com Web Applications

Rick Chamberlain wrote:
Gents,


I built a cart for my Hardinge TM and need to get the TM on it. The cart
is made of heavy angle and box channel, and I used 6" wide pieces of 6x8
angle for the caster mounts. The mounts ride outboard of the cart, and
the top of the mounts rides higher than the bed of the cart - by design
- so that the mill will only be 5" off the ground when transferred.


I have the mill resting on a couple of 4x4s, and can easily get her a
bit higher. Tha challenge here is how do I transfer the mill from the
wooden platform to the cart without killing myself.


Is the middle of the cart open? Ie, the cart is 4 beams with wheels at
the corner?

If so, you can move the 4x4s back a bit from the lightest end of the mill,
until you can work the cart partially under the machine. when you get it
far enough under, you can build a temporary support in the middle of
the cart, move the 4x4s and roll the cart well under the mill. Then
kind of repeat the process at the back end.

If the cart is solid all across, you need to build a lifting frame that
basically becomes outriggers for the mill. Roll the cart under, and then
ease the mill down onto the cart.

One trick is if the outriggers can be set up to lift the machine from
ABOVE the machine's base, so the base is suspended from the timbers
with allthread.

Jon

I built a lifting frame as shown in
http://www.metalworking.com/dropbox/_2000_retired_files/LIFTER.TXT
Note the use of the chain! The cross beam can take far more load in
compression than in bending.

I have used mine to lift a 500Kg (1100lb) tote of alfalfa cubes up out
of a trailer. The trailer was then moved out of the way and the tote
lowered.

My come-along is a chain and lever type rated 3Tons doubled, 1.5T
single.

Ted

Just rent an engine hoist from a tool rental outfit.I did this because
it would not seem that I would need the hoist again.Over the years I
purchased tools that were used once and just cluttered the garage.You'll
get more action from people wanting to borrow it.Remember this line"you
didn't buy it to sit there,did you?"

Man, some of the suggestions in this thread were pretty scary and some
were pretty sound. I'm not saying which was which.

On the scary side of things, I'd like to brain storm the following:

Anybody remember the Henry Reed series of books? There was one where
he suggests using blocks of ice to slowly lower a metal swimming pool
down into its hole because the crane became unavailable.

So I am thinking, what if the mill cart had one side that was bolted
on. Then you could slip the cart under the mill while it was up on
the wood blocks (assuming enough clearance) and then bolt the side
back on - weld it even - and then lower the mill onto the cart.

Ice blocks optional.

Jay

JJ,

I was told that a very well known fast food chain, name withheld, places
their floor safes into position using ice blocks. They simply place the
safe onto the ice, slide it into place and let the ice melt out from
under it. I suppose evaporation takes care of the clean up. :-) As I
understand it, this is standard procedure for that chain of restaurants.
It was something like an area manager who stated this.

Al

=========================

JJ wrote:

s n i p
Anybody remember the Henry Reed series of books? There was one where
he suggests using blocks of ice to slowly lower a metal swimming pool
down into its hole because the crane became unavailable.
s n i p

In article ,
says...

snip
I would be interested in seeing pictures of your mill cart and hearing
the design details concerning the selection of the components and
materials. Could you post them in the dropbox for the benefit of the
group?

Good luck Rick and let us know how you finally do it.

TMT,

Thanks to you and all the others for suggestions. I toyed with the idea
of building a gantry, but it wasn't practical from 2 perspectives - time
and where/how to store it. I also didn't want another piece of
equipment that may not get used very often.

I also considered inching the mill a little higher, then sliding the
mill onto the cart and to hell with the paint job. But that little
Hardinge is one top heavy mother, and discretion won out.

So I hired a wrecker. That in itself was a trip. Instead of sending
out a medium duty rig, they sent one designed to haul semis. The rig
barely got into my garage - if I would have had a standard 7' door it
wouldn't have worked. Took all of 15 minutes to get her hooked up, in
the air, and back on the cart.

By the time I factor in what I would have spent on steel for the gantry
or engine hoist rental, my time dicking around, and potential for
injury, I think my $60 was well spent.

I do have some pics that I'll post to the dropbox soon.

Thanks again everyone.
--
Regards,

Rick

(Remove the HIGH SPOTS for e-mail)

"Rick Chamberlain" wrote in message
...

So I hired a wrecker. That in itself was a trip. Instead of sending
out a medium duty rig, they sent one designed to haul semis. The rig
barely got into my garage - if I would have had a standard 7' door it
wouldn't have worked. Took all of 15 minutes to get her hooked up, in
the air, and back on the cart.

You aren't by any chance known in the neighborhood as "Rick the toolman" are
you?

Holy crap those semi tows are big!
:O
Joel. phx

"Rick, what'cha doing? Oh, just rotating tires on my Miada"


By the time I factor in what I would have spent on steel for the gantry
or engine hoist rental, my time dicking around, and potential for
injury, I think my $60 was well spent.

I do have some pics that I'll post to the dropbox soon.

THAT would be cool to see!