What are the aluminum repair welding rods that I'm seeing that you
just use an OA torch to melt with no flux, shielding gas, etc. ???
Here come the questions:

1. Does it really work?
2. What are the rods made out of?
3. What are the trade offs? I'm assuming it's for general repairs
and not stuff where you have a special alloy with a
strength/flexibility that's critical.

At any rate, the Eastwood catalog shows the stuff and the catalog
blurb claims to even do pot metal. I have also seen the rods down at
the local tractor and supply (US Welding brand I think).

Just to explain, I have aluminum wire and argon for my MIG but usually
keep steel and a 75/25 gas mix hooked up. The thing that raised my
attention is that my OA rig is always ready to go and I have a ton of
tips to manage heat. I'm thinking of using the stuff for small
repairs where swapping out the wire and the gas is a hassle. I also
have flux and wire for critical stuff from Tinman Tech which works
good for thin stuff. (For those who recall some of my past queries,
I've not yet convinced my wife that I can't live without a Lincoln TIG
--- but I'm still working on her :-))

--George

In article , George
wrote:

What are the aluminum repair welding rods that I'm seeing that you
just use an OA torch to melt with no flux, shielding gas, etc. ???
Here come the questions:

1. Does it really work?

Yes they work, to some degree.

2. What are the rods made out of?

Mostly Zinc.


3. What are the trade offs?

They are not as strong as a weld, but they do achieve a water tight
seam if the metal is clean.
They are handy to have around, like superglue, ducktape, visegrips and
bailing wire.


I'm assuming it's for general repairs
and not stuff where you have a special alloy with a
strength/flexibility that's critical.


Correct

At any rate, the Eastwood catalog shows the stuff and the catalog
blurb claims to even do pot metal. I have also seen the rods down at
the local tractor and supply (US Welding brand I think).


Most companies that sell solder are offering a version.

Just to explain, I have aluminum wire and argon for my MIG but usually
keep steel and a 75/25 gas mix hooked up. The thing that raised my
attention is that my OA rig is always ready to go and I have a ton of
tips to manage heat. I'm thinking of using the stuff for small
repairs where swapping out the wire and the gas is a hassle. I also
have flux and wire for critical stuff from Tinman Tech which works
good for thin stuff. (For those who recall some of my past queries,
I've not yet convinced my wife that I can't live without a Lincoln TIG
--- but I'm still working on her :-))

--George

The stuff is very easy to use, just make sure not to bump the part
until it is cooled down.
Because the stuff has a very low melting point, it takes a while to
solidify.

On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 20:27:11 GMT, George wrote:
What are the aluminum repair welding rods that I'm seeing that you
just use an OA torch to melt with no flux, shielding gas, etc. ???
Here come the questions:

1. Does it really work?

Yeah.

2. What are the rods made out of?

Mostly zinc.

3. What are the trade offs? I'm assuming it's for general repairs
and not stuff where you have a special alloy with a
strength/flexibility that's critical.

The joint won't be very strong, about like soft solder, but if
that's all you need, it's simpler than actually making a soft
solder joint on aluminum or pot metal.

Gary

It's not really welding since the base metal is not melted, more
soldering. The tensile strength of the joint is not very high. I.e.,
don't count on it holding 2 pieces in tension together. But it is good
for filling in. E.g., a hole that's been wallowed out can be filled and
redrilled (and tapped). It's best used on aluminum, using it on pot
metal is tricky since the melting points are so close. You can wind up
making a puddle out the part that you are trying to fix.

Bob

Thanks Ernie. I take it you'd really just want to use it to seal a
seam or something vs. really assemble. I can see the benefit.

Interesting note about cooling - I've heard of people doing zinc
casting because it's easy to work with. It never dawned on me to use
it as a filler material.

--George

On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 23:11:10 GMT, Ernie Leimkuhler
wrote:

In article , George
wrote:

What are the aluminum repair welding rods that I'm seeing that you
just use an OA torch to melt with no flux, shielding gas, etc. ???
Here come the questions:

1. Does it really work?

Yes they work, to some degree.

2. What are the rods made out of?

Mostly Zinc.


3. What are the trade offs?

They are not as strong as a weld, but they do achieve a water tight
seam if the metal is clean.
They are handy to have around, like superglue, ducktape, visegrips and
bailing wire.


I'm assuming it's for general repairs
and not stuff where you have a special alloy with a
strength/flexibility that's critical.


Correct

At any rate, the Eastwood catalog shows the stuff and the catalog
blurb claims to even do pot metal. I have also seen the rods down at
the local tractor and supply (US Welding brand I think).


Most companies that sell solder are offering a version.

Just to explain, I have aluminum wire and argon for my MIG but usually
keep steel and a 75/25 gas mix hooked up. The thing that raised my
attention is that my OA rig is always ready to go and I have a ton of
tips to manage heat. I'm thinking of using the stuff for small
repairs where swapping out the wire and the gas is a hassle. I also
have flux and wire for critical stuff from Tinman Tech which works
good for thin stuff. (For those who recall some of my past queries,
I've not yet convinced my wife that I can't live without a Lincoln TIG
--- but I'm still working on her :-))

--George

The stuff is very easy to use, just make sure not to bump the part
until it is cooled down.
Because the stuff has a very low melting point, it takes a while to
solidify.

Thank you Gary.

On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 18:35:02 -0500, Gary Coffman
wrote:

On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 20:27:11 GMT, George wrote:
What are the aluminum repair welding rods that I'm seeing that you
just use an OA torch to melt with no flux, shielding gas, etc. ???
Here come the questions:

1. Does it really work?

Yeah.

2. What are the rods made out of?

Mostly zinc.

3. What are the trade offs? I'm assuming it's for general repairs
and not stuff where you have a special alloy with a
strength/flexibility that's critical.

The joint won't be very strong, about like soft solder, but if
that's all you need, it's simpler than actually making a soft
solder joint on aluminum or pot metal.

Gary

I've never had to repair pot metal. Out of curiosity, what do people
usually use?

On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 19:20:34 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

It's not really welding since the base metal is not melted, more
soldering. The tensile strength of the joint is not very high. I.e.,
don't count on it holding 2 pieces in tension together. But it is good
for filling in. E.g., a hole that's been wallowed out can be filled and
redrilled (and tapped). It's best used on aluminum, using it on pot
metal is tricky since the melting points are so close. You can wind up
making a puddle out the part that you are trying to fix.

Bob

I started using this stuff in the '80s when I found some at a hamfest. It
was being marketed by the name Mesa Foundry aluminum repair rod. The sticks
appeared to be poured rather than having the appearance of drawn wire.
For genuine aluminum alloy rod, look for some Postle products, also
available in spools.

For anything thicker than thin sheet aluminum, you'll at least need a Mapp
gas torch.. propane won't work well with lengths of 1/8" flat or angle.
It will most likely be darker than aluminum when it ages.

It definitely is handy to have around for fabricating with aluminum stock,
boat and outdoor hardware for example. In most instances, it makes
fabrication simpler than mechanical fasteners. For repairing breaks in
flimsy parts, adding a backer or filler section will greatly improve the
original structural strength.
Scratching it into the base metal at the working temp seems to make a strong
bond.
It cuts well with typical tools, and is a little more resistant to filing
than cast aluminum.

I've used it to restore ripped out spark plug threads and recoil starter
ratchets on chainsaws.
It fills holes well, and can be used to add additional mass, but it gets
watery at slightly higher than it's working temp, so it can run off the part
if you have too much heat.
I don't make any cast parts, but it seems that it would be suitable for
modeling and other uncommon shapes.

WB
................

"George" wrote in message
...
What are the aluminum repair welding rods that I'm seeing that you
just use an OA torch to melt with no flux, shielding gas, etc. ???
Here come the questions:

1. Does it really work?
2. What are the rods made out of?
3. What are the trade offs? I'm assuming it's for general repairs
and not stuff where you have a special alloy with a
strength/flexibility that's critical.

At any rate, the Eastwood catalog shows the stuff and the catalog
blurb claims to even do pot metal. I have also seen the rods down at
the local tractor and supply (US Welding brand I think).

Just to explain, I have aluminum wire and argon for my MIG but usually
keep steel and a 75/25 gas mix hooked up. The thing that raised my
attention is that my OA rig is always ready to go and I have a ton of
tips to manage heat. I'm thinking of using the stuff for small
repairs where swapping out the wire and the gas is a hassle. I also
have flux and wire for critical stuff from Tinman Tech which works
good for thin stuff. (For those who recall some of my past queries,
I've not yet convinced my wife that I can't live without a Lincoln TIG
--- but I'm still working on her :-))

--George

When I repair pot metal:

like a moulding or door handle on a classic or antique car. Before I send it
out to be rechromed. I have a bunch of old pots, pans and mouldings, I clean
the pieces up good, use some all purpose flux, heat the parts and the pieces
to make the flux stick.

Then build away. Then comes grinding and shaping time, praying you didn't
grind off too much before you get to the polishing step.

Then off to the platers.

I hope this helps?

Refinish King

"George" wrote in message
...
I've never had to repair pot metal. Out of curiosity, what do people
usually use?

On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 19:20:34 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

It's not really welding since the base metal is not melted, more
soldering. The tensile strength of the joint is not very high. I.e.,
don't count on it holding 2 pieces in tension together. But it is good
for filling in. E.g., a hole that's been wallowed out can be filled and
redrilled (and tapped). It's best used on aluminum, using it on pot
metal is tricky since the melting points are so close. You can wind up
making a puddle out the part that you are trying to fix.

Bob

Gary Coffman writes:

The joint won't be very strong, about like soft solder, but if
that's all you need, it's simpler than actually making a soft
solder joint on aluminum or pot metal.

I'd like to know how you soft solder aluminum.

Richard J Kinch wrote:
Gary Coffman writes:

The joint won't be very strong, about like soft solder, but if
that's all you need, it's simpler than actually making a soft
solder joint on aluminum or pot metal.

I'd like to know how you soft solder aluminum.

It's easy.
You just need to remove the oxide coat in an inert atmosphere, then
you solder in the same atmosphere.

So you use scrap pot metal as filler - I guess that makes sense. What
kind of flux do you use?

--George


On Sun, 7 Mar 2004 02:58:43 -0500, "Refinish King"
wrote:

When I repair pot metal:

like a moulding or door handle on a classic or antique car. Before I send it
out to be rechromed. I have a bunch of old pots, pans and mouldings, I clean
the pieces up good, use some all purpose flux, heat the parts and the pieces
to make the flux stick.

Then build away. Then comes grinding and shaping time, praying you didn't
grind off too much before you get to the polishing step.

Then off to the platers.

I hope this helps?

Refinish King

"George" wrote in message
.. .
I've never had to repair pot metal. Out of curiosity, what do people
usually use?

On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 19:20:34 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

It's not really welding since the base metal is not melted, more
soldering. The tensile strength of the joint is not very high. I.e.,
don't count on it holding 2 pieces in tension together. But it is good
for filling in. E.g., a hole that's been wallowed out can be filled and
redrilled (and tapped). It's best used on aluminum, using it on pot
metal is tricky since the melting points are so close. You can wind up
making a puddle out the part that you are trying to fix.

Bob

If it works on spark plug holes, that could be real nice. Have you
ever tried it on anything like a worn car AC condensor?

Other folks have said the rods are Zinc. I've read that Zinc is
popular for what they call "Lost Wax Zinc Casting".
http://www.popsci.com/popsci/science...470950,00.html
http://www.ray-vin.com/casting/lostwax/lostwax1.shtml

On Sun, 7 Mar 2004 01:42:32 -0500, "Wild Bill"
wrote:

I started using this stuff in the '80s when I found some at a hamfest. It
was being marketed by the name Mesa Foundry aluminum repair rod. The sticks
appeared to be poured rather than having the appearance of drawn wire.
For genuine aluminum alloy rod, look for some Postle products, also
available in spools.

For anything thicker than thin sheet aluminum, you'll at least need a Mapp
gas torch.. propane won't work well with lengths of 1/8" flat or angle.
It will most likely be darker than aluminum when it ages.

It definitely is handy to have around for fabricating with aluminum stock,
boat and outdoor hardware for example. In most instances, it makes
fabrication simpler than mechanical fasteners. For repairing breaks in
flimsy parts, adding a backer or filler section will greatly improve the
original structural strength.
Scratching it into the base metal at the working temp seems to make a strong
bond.
It cuts well with typical tools, and is a little more resistant to filing
than cast aluminum.

I've used it to restore ripped out spark plug threads and recoil starter
ratchets on chainsaws.
It fills holes well, and can be used to add additional mass, but it gets
watery at slightly higher than it's working temp, so it can run off the part
if you have too much heat.
I don't make any cast parts, but it seems that it would be suitable for
modeling and other uncommon shapes.

WB
...............

"George" wrote in message
.. .
What are the aluminum repair welding rods that I'm seeing that you
just use an OA torch to melt with no flux, shielding gas, etc. ???
Here come the questions:

1. Does it really work?
2. What are the rods made out of?
3. What are the trade offs? I'm assuming it's for general repairs
and not stuff where you have a special alloy with a
strength/flexibility that's critical.

At any rate, the Eastwood catalog shows the stuff and the catalog
blurb claims to even do pot metal. I have also seen the rods down at
the local tractor and supply (US Welding brand I think).

Just to explain, I have aluminum wire and argon for my MIG but usually
keep steel and a 75/25 gas mix hooked up. The thing that raised my
attention is that my OA rig is always ready to go and I have a ton of
tips to manage heat. I'm thinking of using the stuff for small
repairs where swapping out the wire and the gas is a hassle. I also
have flux and wire for critical stuff from Tinman Tech which works
good for thin stuff. (For those who recall some of my past queries,
I've not yet convinced my wife that I can't live without a Lincoln TIG
--- but I'm still working on her :-))

--George

On Sun, 07 Mar 2004 02:12:37 -0600, Richard J Kinch wrote:
Gary Coffman writes:

The joint won't be very strong, about like soft solder, but if
that's all you need, it's simpler than actually making a soft
solder joint on aluminum or pot metal.

I'd like to know how you soft solder aluminum.

The way I do it is to tin the surfaces to be joined under oil.
Tinning under oil is an old trick. The oil seals oxygen from
the surface, you scratch in the tinning coat with a sharp
tool or the point of the iron to get below the oxide layer,
then clean off the oil and solder your joint normally.

Gary

George wrote:
...
Other folks have said the rods are Zinc. I've read that Zinc is
popular for what they call "Lost Wax Zinc Casting". ...

If you're thinking about using these rods as casting material, it will
be way expensive. IIRC, I paid about $16/lb for the rods. For casting
I got a bunch of old zinc roof flashing. Some pulleys are die cast zinc
alloy, as are some carburetors. Melting down junkers of these would be
_much_ cheaper.

Bob

On Sun, 07 Mar 2004 01:34:44 GMT, George wrote:

I've never had to repair pot metal. Out of curiosity, what do people
usually use?

That's what this stuff does best. The trick to potmetal is to
confine and contain it so it can't collapse or run away when it
melts. Eastwood sells a re-usable putty that works well. Approach it
more as "casting in place" than as welding.

That heat sink putty of theirs?

On Sun, 07 Mar 2004 11:45:35 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sun, 07 Mar 2004 01:34:44 GMT, George wrote:

I've never had to repair pot metal. Out of curiosity, what do people
usually use?

That's what this stuff does best. The trick to potmetal is to
confine and contain it so it can't collapse or run away when it
melts. Eastwood sells a re-usable putty that works well. Approach it
more as "casting in place" than as welding.

It's an all purpose powder:

I asked the welding supply for a flux, for what I intended to de. I've used
over 10 8 ounce bottles of this in 25 years, I do a lot of classic and
antique cars. Sometimes having less than half a moulding to work with.

I hope this helps?

Refinish King

"George" wrote in message
...
So you use scrap pot metal as filler - I guess that makes sense. What
kind of flux do you use?

--George


On Sun, 7 Mar 2004 02:58:43 -0500, "Refinish King"
wrote:

When I repair pot metal:

like a moulding or door handle on a classic or antique car. Before I send
it
out to be rechromed. I have a bunch of old pots, pans and mouldings, I
clean
the pieces up good, use some all purpose flux, heat the parts and the
pieces
to make the flux stick.

Then build away. Then comes grinding and shaping time, praying you didn't
grind off too much before you get to the polishing step.

Then off to the platers.

I hope this helps?

Refinish King

"George" wrote in message
.. .
I've never had to repair pot metal. Out of curiosity, what do people
usually use?

On Sat, 06 Mar 2004 19:20:34 -0500, Bob Engelhardt
wrote:

It's not really welding since the base metal is not melted, more
soldering. The tensile strength of the joint is not very high. I.e.,
don't count on it holding 2 pieces in tension together. But it is
good
for filling in. E.g., a hole that's been wallowed out can be filled
and
redrilled (and tapped). It's best used on aluminum, using it on pot
metal is tricky since the melting points are so close. You can wind
up
making a puddle out the part that you are trying to fix.

Bob

There's a great question!

Refinish King

PS

Do you see what we have to fix aluminum radiators?

LOL


"George" wrote in message
...
If it works on spark plug holes, that could be real nice. Have you
ever tried it on anything like a worn car AC condensor?

Other folks have said the rods are Zinc. I've read that Zinc is
popular for what they call "Lost Wax Zinc Casting".
http://www.popsci.com/popsci/science...470950,00.html
http://www.ray-vin.com/casting/lostwax/lostwax1.shtml

On Sun, 7 Mar 2004 01:42:32 -0500, "Wild Bill"
wrote:

I started using this stuff in the '80s when I found some at a hamfest. It
was being marketed by the name Mesa Foundry aluminum repair rod. The
sticks
appeared to be poured rather than having the appearance of drawn wire.
For genuine aluminum alloy rod, look for some Postle products, also
available in spools.

For anything thicker than thin sheet aluminum, you'll at least need a
Mapp
gas torch.. propane won't work well with lengths of 1/8" flat or angle.
It will most likely be darker than aluminum when it ages.

It definitely is handy to have around for fabricating with aluminum
stock,
boat and outdoor hardware for example. In most instances, it makes
fabrication simpler than mechanical fasteners. For repairing breaks in
flimsy parts, adding a backer or filler section will greatly improve the
original structural strength.
Scratching it into the base metal at the working temp seems to make a
strong
bond.
It cuts well with typical tools, and is a little more resistant to filing
than cast aluminum.

I've used it to restore ripped out spark plug threads and recoil starter
ratchets on chainsaws.
It fills holes well, and can be used to add additional mass, but it gets
watery at slightly higher than it's working temp, so it can run off the
part
if you have too much heat.
I don't make any cast parts, but it seems that it would be suitable for
modeling and other uncommon shapes.

WB
...............

"George" wrote in message
.. .
What are the aluminum repair welding rods that I'm seeing that you
just use an OA torch to melt with no flux, shielding gas, etc. ???
Here come the questions:

1. Does it really work?
2. What are the rods made out of?
3. What are the trade offs? I'm assuming it's for general repairs
and not stuff where you have a special alloy with a
strength/flexibility that's critical.

At any rate, the Eastwood catalog shows the stuff and the catalog
blurb claims to even do pot metal. I have also seen the rods down at
the local tractor and supply (US Welding brand I think).

Just to explain, I have aluminum wire and argon for my MIG but usually
keep steel and a 75/25 gas mix hooked up. The thing that raised my
attention is that my OA rig is always ready to go and I have a ton of
tips to manage heat. I'm thinking of using the stuff for small
repairs where swapping out the wire and the gas is a hassle. I also
have flux and wire for critical stuff from Tinman Tech which works
good for thin stuff. (For those who recall some of my past queries,
I've not yet convinced my wife that I can't live without a Lincoln TIG
--- but I'm still working on her :-))

--George

Yes!

I use beach sand and boiling water now, because I got to the point where the
outside comes out almost where I dont need to grind much.

I'd love to get my hands on what I've heard referred to as; "Green Sand"
sand and oil mixture for casting?

Refinish King

"George" wrote in message
...
That heat sink putty of theirs?

On Sun, 07 Mar 2004 11:45:35 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sun, 07 Mar 2004 01:34:44 GMT, George wrote:

I've never had to repair pot metal. Out of curiosity, what do people
usually use?

That's what this stuff does best. The trick to potmetal is to
confine and contain it so it can't collapse or run away when it
melts. Eastwood sells a re-usable putty that works well. Approach it
more as "casting in place" than as welding.

Refinish King wrote:

Yes!

I use beach sand and boiling water now, because I got to the point where the
outside comes out almost where I dont need to grind much.

I'd love to get my hands on what I've heard referred to as; "Green Sand"
sand and oil mixture for casting?

Refinish King

Two different things..

Green sand is a mixture of sand, clay, and water that is rammed up for
casting in. Hunt around a bit with google for a recipe or two.

Sand and oil mix is called petrobond sand, and uses a petroleum based
binder to make the sand stick together. You can make your own, using a
muller, or you can buy it from a foundry supply place.

Cheers
Trevor Jones

On Sun, 07 Mar 2004 22:19:36 -0500, Refinish King wrote:


I'd love to get my hands on what I've heard referred to as; "Green Sand"
sand and oil mixture for casting?

Green sand generally refers to foundry sand mixtures that are water based.
The sand and oil (and proprietary resin) mixture is marketed as Petro-Bond.

This place carries it:

http://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/J...ndry_Sand.html

a 25 lb. sack goes for just under $50, shipping included.

--
"Please God, help me cleanse the computer of viruses and evil photographs
that disturb and ruin my work ..., so that I shall be able to cleanse
myself." -- Rabbi Shlomo Eliahu



----== Posted via Newsfeed.Com - Unlimited-Uncensored-Secure Usenet News==----
http://www.newsfeed.com The #1 Newsgroup Service in the World! 100,000 Newsgroups
---= 19 East/West-Coast Specialized Servers - Total Privacy via Encryption =---

I've had good results joining aluminum tubing used for antenna sections. I
dunno about the reliability of using it on A/C system parts, but I'd expect
the results to be good.
This product isn't quite the same as a solder, in that I don't think it will
creep into a joint, in the way that soft solder does on a fluxed copper
fittings joint.
This stuff is scratched into the joint or repair area to keep the surface
oxides broken up. It doesn't actually tin the parts in the way that rosin
core solder does on clean copper.

The different brands of the rod I've used, including the one you saw at the
tractor/ag store, have all appeared to be the same product.
The application is more like brazing or welding, rather than soldering.

WB
.............

"George" wrote in message
...
If it works on spark plug holes, that could be real nice. Have you
ever tried it on anything like a worn car AC condensor?

Other folks have said the rods are Zinc. I've read that Zinc is
popular for what they call "Lost Wax Zinc Casting".
http://www.popsci.com/popsci/science...470950,00.html
http://www.ray-vin.com/casting/lostwax/lostwax1.shtml

Artemia Salina wrote:
On Sun, 07 Mar 2004 22:19:36 -0500, Refinish King wrote:



I'd love to get my hands on what I've heard referred to as; "Green Sand"
sand and oil mixture for casting?


Green sand generally refers to foundry sand mixtures that are water based.
The sand and oil (and proprietary resin) mixture is marketed as Petro-Bond.

This place carries it:

http://www.budgetcastingsupply.com/J...ndry_Sand.html

a 25 lb. sack goes for just under $50, shipping included.

I have some from this place - nice place and very nice man that runs it -
works fine - functional.

The resin flows under temp and makes a smooth surface.

Martin

--
Martin Eastburn, Barbara Eastburn
@ home at Lion's Lair with our computer
NRA LOH, NRA Life
NRA Second Amendment Task Force Charter Founder

Jigging putty. Part# 19032. Oops, I don't see it on their website
anymore, though I'm looking at a 2 lb tub of it. It may be the same
stuff as current #31042 "Anti-Heat Compound". Looks the same: blue in
color, comes in a tub.

I've also used petrobond sand. Both work. The jigging putty is more
convenient for small jobs.

On Sun, 07 Mar 2004 22:47:28 GMT, George wrote:

That heat sink putty of theirs?

On Sun, 07 Mar 2004 11:45:35 -0600, Don Foreman
wrote:

On Sun, 07 Mar 2004 01:34:44 GMT, George wrote:

I've never had to repair pot metal. Out of curiosity, what do people
usually use?

That's what this stuff does best. The trick to potmetal is to
confine and contain it so it can't collapse or run away when it
melts. Eastwood sells a re-usable putty that works well. Approach it
more as "casting in place" than as welding.

If you mean joining or repairing aluminum tubing in AC systems, there
is a much better product specifically designed for that: ESAB or
Allstate #31 rod with #31 flux. It wets and flows on aluminum like
silversolder does on brass or copper, and it makes much stronger
joints than the zinc-based "miracle rod". I learned about it and
saw it demonstrated at an ASHRAE show. It's what the pros use. It's
cheaper than the "miracle rod", works far better for me. NB: ya
gotta use the flux. The trick to this stuff is careful gradual
heating, because it kicks not far below the melting point of aluminum;
it really is brazing but it's not far below welding. With careful
gradual heating, it's a nobrainer. I've placed preform rings around
joints comprised of an Al tube thru a hole in Al sheetmetal, fluxed of
course and gently heated. The result was a very pretty fillet joint.
When I've tested such joints the parent metal failed, not the joint.

There may be something that has escaped me, but I've never thought the
results I got from the various zinc-based "miracle rods" with aluminum
were any better than epoxy, not much better than duct tape, and
certainly far inferior (in my hands at least) to materials as #31
and those offered by the Tinman. The only thing I think the
zinc-based stuff is any good for at all is in repairing potmetal;
I've had very good results with that.

Many others have reported good results with "miracle rod" and
aluminum, so maybe there's something I'm just not getting right. I
do get consistently good results with the materials that work for me.

On Sun, 07 Mar 2004 13:11:02 GMT, George wrote:

If it works on spark plug holes, that could be real nice. Have you
ever tried it on anything like a worn car AC condensor?

Don Foreman writes:

If you mean joining or repairing aluminum tubing in AC systems, there
is a much better product specifically designed for that: ESAB or
Allstate #31 rod with #31 flux.

Is this what you mean?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...mId=1611760403
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...mId=1611760431

On Tue, 09 Mar 2004 13:52:08 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Don Foreman writes:

If you mean joining or repairing aluminum tubing in AC systems, there
is a much better product specifically designed for that: ESAB or
Allstate #31 rod with #31 flux.

Is this what you mean?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...mId=1611760403
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...mId=1611760431

Yep those are the ones and I can second the amazing things you can
do with these rods. I've repair a car condenser which had aluminum
tube that was about 22-24 gauge thick with this stuff. It's the best
thing since sliced bread IMHO.

BTW those rods are made by ESAB so you might manage to get your
local welding supply to order them cheaper than from Grainger.

Wayne Cook
Shamrock, TX
http://members.dslextreme.com/users/waynecook

Yup. That's even where I got it.

On Tue, 09 Mar 2004 13:52:08 -0600, Richard J Kinch
wrote:

Don Foreman writes:

If you mean joining or repairing aluminum tubing in AC systems, there
is a much better product specifically designed for that: ESAB or
Allstate #31 rod with #31 flux.

Is this what you mean?

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...mId=1611760403
http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/pro...mId=1611760431