Greetings brothers ~

I have been searching for a while now on bleeding radiators...since the
bleeding I did last night seemed to cure about 75% of my insufficient
heat issue, I want to be sure I am doing it properly going forward.

Do you go from nearest to the boiler to farthest, or vice versa?
Somehow I would think farthest 1st...

Boiler should be running at normal operating temp when you bleed,
right?

Bleed at least a quart at each radiator? Less? More? How often when
a system shows trouble? (I am figuring a quart each, done every week
until the insufficient heat problem is gone?)

What about the expansion tank? Mine is a metal cylinder maybe 5 gallon
capacity, sitting just above the boiler. Should this thing be bled as
well? I understand they can sometimes become water-logged...

I hope that is comprehensive as far as what Q's come up for bleeding
FHW radiators so those that come searching can be helped.
Let's hear from the experts!

Thanks,


Bluesman

I have never bled more than air out. Air is what you do not want in the
system. You need to be sure your water level is correct since you
removed some. 12lb cold is normal. What is your water temp set at. raise
it , try 185

I have never bled more than air out. Air is what you do not want in the
system. You need to be sure your water level is correct since you
removed some. 12lb cold is normal. What is your water temp set at. raise
it , try 185

On 22 Dec 2004 10:03:38 -0800, wrote:

Greetings brothers ~

I have been searching for a while now on bleeding radiators...since the
bleeding I did last night seemed to cure about 75% of my insufficient
heat issue, I want to be sure I am doing it properly going forward.

Do you go from nearest to the boiler to farthest, or vice versa?
Somehow I would think farthest 1st...

Boiler should be running at normal operating temp when you bleed,
right?

Bleed at least a quart at each radiator? Less? More? How often when
a system shows trouble? (I am figuring a quart each, done every week
until the insufficient heat problem is gone?)

What about the expansion tank? Mine is a metal cylinder maybe 5 gallon
capacity, sitting just above the boiler. Should this thing be bled as
well? I understand they can sometimes become water-logged...

I hope that is comprehensive as far as what Q's come up for bleeding
FHW radiators so those that come searching can be helped.
Let's hear from the experts!

Thanks,


Bluesman


Unless you want a whole new set of problems, leave the expansion tank
alone.

_______________

Gary R. Lloyd CMS
HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software
Written by a veteran Service Technician

https://www.merchantamerica.com/tmethod/

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 13:40:48 -0600, (m Ransley)
wrote:

I have never bled more than air out. Air is what you do not want in the
system. You need to be sure your water level is correct since you
removed some. 12lb cold is normal. What is your water temp set at. raise
it , try 185


12 psi cold may or may not be normal depending upon the vertical
height of the system.

_______________

Gary R. Lloyd CMS
HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software
Written by a veteran Service Technician

https://www.merchantamerica.com/tmethod/

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:30:08 GMT, wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:09:45 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On 22 Dec 2004 10:03:38 -0800, wrote:

Greetings brothers ~

I have been searching for a while now on bleeding radiators...since the
bleeding I did last night seemed to cure about 75% of my insufficient
heat issue, I want to be sure I am doing it properly going forward.

Do you go from nearest to the boiler to farthest, or vice versa?
Somehow I would think farthest 1st...

Boiler should be running at normal operating temp when you bleed,
right?

Bleed at least a quart at each radiator? Less? More? How often when
a system shows trouble? (I am figuring a quart each, done every week
until the insufficient heat problem is gone?)

What about the expansion tank? Mine is a metal cylinder maybe 5 gallon
capacity, sitting just above the boiler. Should this thing be bled as
well? I understand they can sometimes become water-logged...

I hope that is comprehensive as far as what Q's come up for bleeding
FHW radiators so those that come searching can be helped.
Let's hear from the experts!

Thanks,


Bluesman


Unless you want a whole new set of problems, leave the expansion tank
alone.


That's just plain silly. Draining the expansion tank is very easy. No
more complicated than say, backwashing a swimming pool filter. I've
been doing it twice a year for a LOT of years.

Sometimes "pros" get funny ideas about things. I think this is one of
those times. You may have drained a few thousand expansion tanks and
ran into problems 20 times, so now you think it's a hazardous and
risky thing for anyone but a professional to deal with. I already
advised the guy that if his drain valve is clogged up, his service
contract will probably cover it. I didn't recommend that he try and
replace the valve by himself, in the unlikely event that it needs
replacement.

I knew a "professional" who worked in a G.M. transmission repair
facility. He was of the opinion that GM transmissions were lousy,
because every one of them he saw was broken! 8^)

BB

This system does NOT show symptoms of expansion tank problems, and
given the OP's level of expertise he is likely to do it wrong.

For that matter, what makes you think YOUR expansion tank needs annual
draining?

_______________

Gary R. Lloyd CMS
HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software
Written by a veteran Service Technician

https://www.merchantamerica.com/tmethod/

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:56:02 GMT, wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:49:05 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:30:08 GMT, wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:09:45 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On 22 Dec 2004 10:03:38 -0800, wrote:

Greetings brothers ~

I have been searching for a while now on bleeding radiators...since the
bleeding I did last night seemed to cure about 75% of my insufficient
heat issue, I want to be sure I am doing it properly going forward.

Do you go from nearest to the boiler to farthest, or vice versa?
Somehow I would think farthest 1st...

Boiler should be running at normal operating temp when you bleed,
right?

Bleed at least a quart at each radiator? Less? More? How often when
a system shows trouble? (I am figuring a quart each, done every week
until the insufficient heat problem is gone?)

What about the expansion tank? Mine is a metal cylinder maybe 5 gallon
capacity, sitting just above the boiler. Should this thing be bled as
well? I understand they can sometimes become water-logged...

I hope that is comprehensive as far as what Q's come up for bleeding
FHW radiators so those that come searching can be helped.
Let's hear from the experts!

Thanks,


Bluesman


Unless you want a whole new set of problems, leave the expansion tank
alone.


That's just plain silly. Draining the expansion tank is very easy. No
more complicated than say, backwashing a swimming pool filter. I've
been doing it twice a year for a LOT of years.

Sometimes "pros" get funny ideas about things. I think this is one of
those times. You may have drained a few thousand expansion tanks and
ran into problems 20 times, so now you think it's a hazardous and
risky thing for anyone but a professional to deal with. I already
advised the guy that if his drain valve is clogged up, his service
contract will probably cover it. I didn't recommend that he try and
replace the valve by himself, in the unlikely event that it needs
replacement.

I knew a "professional" who worked in a G.M. transmission repair
facility. He was of the opinion that GM transmissions were lousy,
because every one of them he saw was broken! 8^)

BB

This system does NOT show symptoms of expansion tank problems, and
given the OP's level of expertise he is likely to do it wrong.


Nobody is saying that the expansion tank has anything to do with his
other problem. He just asked about how to drain it, which is a simple
and straightforward procedure. I'm betting he can handle it just fine.
He has shown that he asks questions when he's not sure of himself. If
he opens that drain and nothing comes out, I'm pretty sure he'll stop
and post a question in this newsgroup about how to proceed.

For that matter, what makes you think YOUR expansion tank needs annual
draining?


Because I reach up and feel that it is heavy and full. Draining it
also serves to evacuate some sediment, which if left alone WILL cause
problems. There is certainley no harm done by draining it
pweriodically, and it CAN help you to avoid other issues, such as an
overpressure safety valve dumping a few gallons of water on your floor
while you are away on vacation.

BB

That's just plain silly.

_______________

Gary R. Lloyd CMS
HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software
Written by a veteran Service Technician

https://www.merchantamerica.com/tmethod/

wrote:

Greetings brothers ~

I have been searching for a while now on bleeding radiators...since the
bleeding I did last night seemed to cure about 75% of my insufficient
heat issue, I want to be sure I am doing it properly going forward.

Do you go from nearest to the boiler to farthest, or vice versa?
Somehow I would think farthest 1st...

Boiler should be running at normal operating temp when you bleed,
right?

Bleed at least a quart at each radiator? Less? More? How often when
a system shows trouble? (I am figuring a quart each, done every week
until the insufficient heat problem is gone?)

What about the expansion tank? Mine is a metal cylinder maybe 5 gallon
capacity, sitting just above the boiler. Should this thing be bled as
well? I understand they can sometimes become water-logged...

I hope that is comprehensive as far as what Q's come up for bleeding
FHW radiators so those that come searching can be helped.
Let's hear from the experts!

First, the expansion tank is there to act as a cushion against sudden
pressure changes such as the automatic filler clunking on and off.
Also, it accomodates changes in air pressure. The expansion tank is
only a chamber with a flexible diaphragm halfway up. That diaphragm
will last about 20 years, but can rupture.

Second, the pressure in your system is largely set by the automatic
filler valve. A typical range is 6 to 22 psi. It's built into the valve.

Third, air in the system should escape via a relief valve, typically on
the stem up to the expansion tank. Some systems have little air
separators on local high points around the system. These are valves
that have cardboard in them. Air escapes while the cardboard is dry but
when water hits the cardboard it swells up and stops the flow.

Fourth, it sounds like you could benefit from an hour of a friendly
plumber's time. Have him explain all the parts of your system and
answer your list of questions. In the end this will save you time
trying to guess what's going on.

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 13:40:48 -0600, (m Ransley)
wrote:

I have never bled more than air out. Air is what you do not want in the
system. You need to be sure your water level is correct since you
removed some. 12lb cold is normal. What is your water temp set at. raise
it , try 185

OH for god sakes Ransley. Why dont you STFU on stuff you know nothing
about.
12 lb is normal?? For what? How about a 2, 3 or 4 story bldg? 12 lbs
wont cut it there, "butt bait".Try 12lbs on a single story ranch with
no basement. That would be what is called unnecessary overkill. Its
related to the height of the radiators from the boiler. Stick to
something you know something about..............like porking jimmy, my
pull toy pet.
Bubba

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 13:41:16 -0600, (m Ransley)
wrote:

I have never bled more than air out. Air is what you do not want in the
system. You need to be sure your water level is correct since you
removed some. 12lb cold is normal. What is your water temp set at. raise
it , try 185

Still wrong you bone head.
Try having NO AIR in your expansion tank. Then tell me how many
problems you have with your system.
Ransley, you are a moron without a clue. Hop on your camel and ride
son, ride off into webtv land
Bubba

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:56:02 GMT, wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:49:05 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:30:08 GMT, wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:09:45 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On 22 Dec 2004 10:03:38 -0800, wrote:

Greetings brothers ~

I have been searching for a while now on bleeding radiators...since the
bleeding I did last night seemed to cure about 75% of my insufficient
heat issue, I want to be sure I am doing it properly going forward.

Do you go from nearest to the boiler to farthest, or vice versa?
Somehow I would think farthest 1st...

Boiler should be running at normal operating temp when you bleed,
right?

Bleed at least a quart at each radiator? Less? More? How often when
a system shows trouble? (I am figuring a quart each, done every week
until the insufficient heat problem is gone?)

What about the expansion tank? Mine is a metal cylinder maybe 5 gallon
capacity, sitting just above the boiler. Should this thing be bled as
well? I understand they can sometimes become water-logged...

I hope that is comprehensive as far as what Q's come up for bleeding
FHW radiators so those that come searching can be helped.
Let's hear from the experts!

Thanks,


Bluesman


Unless you want a whole new set of problems, leave the expansion tank
alone.


That's just plain silly. Draining the expansion tank is very easy. No
more complicated than say, backwashing a swimming pool filter. I've
been doing it twice a year for a LOT of years.

Sometimes "pros" get funny ideas about things. I think this is one of
those times. You may have drained a few thousand expansion tanks and
ran into problems 20 times, so now you think it's a hazardous and
risky thing for anyone but a professional to deal with. I already
advised the guy that if his drain valve is clogged up, his service
contract will probably cover it. I didn't recommend that he try and
replace the valve by himself, in the unlikely event that it needs
replacement.

I knew a "professional" who worked in a G.M. transmission repair
facility. He was of the opinion that GM transmissions were lousy,
because every one of them he saw was broken! 8^)

BB

This system does NOT show symptoms of expansion tank problems, and
given the OP's level of expertise he is likely to do it wrong.


Nobody is saying that the expansion tank has anything to do with his
other problem. He just asked about how to drain it, which is a simple
and straightforward procedure. I'm betting he can handle it just fine.
He has shown that he asks questions when he's not sure of himself. If
he opens that drain and nothing comes out, I'm pretty sure he'll stop
and post a question in this newsgroup about how to proceed.

For that matter, what makes you think YOUR expansion tank needs annual
draining?


Because I reach up and feel that it is heavy and full. Draining it
also serves to evacuate some sediment, which if left alone WILL cause
problems. There is certainley no harm done by draining it
pweriodically, and it CAN help you to avoid other issues, such as an
overpressure safety valve dumping a few gallons of water on your floor
while you are away on vacation.

BB

The more you drain, the more you refill. Unless you are refilling with
clean distilled mineral free water (you arent) you are introducing
added minerals each time. Its a balancing act. You have to add water
once in a great while but the more you add the more minerals you add.
Expansion tanks do NOT need to be drained twice a year. If you have to
you need to find out why. Anytime you drain water at the boiler, you
usually wind up with air in the system at the upper radiators. Then
you have cold radiators. Then you have a call back. Purging air from a
hot water system may be easy for you but it is costly when a technican
has to do it. I dont drain water or purge radiators for free.
Bubba

wrote in message
news
On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 21:02:31 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:56:02 GMT, wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:49:05 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:30:08 GMT, wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:09:45 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On 22 Dec 2004 10:03:38 -0800, wrote:

Greetings brothers ~

I have been searching for a while now on bleeding radiators...since
the
bleeding I did last night seemed to cure about 75% of my
insufficient
heat issue, I want to be sure I am doing it properly going forward.

Do you go from nearest to the boiler to farthest, or vice versa?
Somehow I would think farthest 1st...

Boiler should be running at normal operating temp when you bleed,
right?

Bleed at least a quart at each radiator? Less? More? How often
when
a system shows trouble? (I am figuring a quart each, done every
week
until the insufficient heat problem is gone?)

What about the expansion tank? Mine is a metal cylinder maybe 5
gallon
capacity, sitting just above the boiler. Should this thing be bled
as
well? I understand they can sometimes become water-logged...

I hope that is comprehensive as far as what Q's come up for bleeding
FHW radiators so those that come searching can be helped.
Let's hear from the experts!

Thanks,


Bluesman


Unless you want a whole new set of problems, leave the expansion tank
alone.


That's just plain silly. Draining the expansion tank is very easy. No
more complicated than say, backwashing a swimming pool filter. I've
been doing it twice a year for a LOT of years.

Sometimes "pros" get funny ideas about things. I think this is one of
those times. You may have drained a few thousand expansion tanks and
ran into problems 20 times, so now you think it's a hazardous and
risky thing for anyone but a professional to deal with. I already
advised the guy that if his drain valve is clogged up, his service
contract will probably cover it. I didn't recommend that he try and
replace the valve by himself, in the unlikely event that it needs
replacement.

I knew a "professional" who worked in a G.M. transmission repair
facility. He was of the opinion that GM transmissions were lousy,
because every one of them he saw was broken! 8^)

BB

This system does NOT show symptoms of expansion tank problems, and
given the OP's level of expertise he is likely to do it wrong.


Nobody is saying that the expansion tank has anything to do with his
other problem. He just asked about how to drain it, which is a simple
and straightforward procedure. I'm betting he can handle it just fine.
He has shown that he asks questions when he's not sure of himself. If
he opens that drain and nothing comes out, I'm pretty sure he'll stop
and post a question in this newsgroup about how to proceed.

For that matter, what makes you think YOUR expansion tank needs annual
draining?


Because I reach up and feel that it is heavy and full. Draining it
also serves to evacuate some sediment, which if left alone WILL cause
problems. There is certainley no harm done by draining it
pweriodically, and it CAN help you to avoid other issues, such as an
overpressure safety valve dumping a few gallons of water on your floor
while you are away on vacation.

BB

That's just plain silly.

_______________

Gary R. Lloyd CMS

Please notice that I not only said "That's just plain silly in response to
your
baloney, but I went on to explain WHY. I'm not surprised at all at this
pouint
that you had nothing to back up your post. I guess it was just one more
easy
excuse to post your SPAM sig.

BTW - A full expansion tank CAN cause air in a system. I'm betting you
don't
know why or how. Good thing you retired so you won't be inadvertantly
ripping
people off due to your incompetence.

BB

Okay, what if it's a diaphragm style tank?

Oh, and if you have to drain a tank as often as you say, you have another
problem......

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 22:44:29 GMT, wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 21:02:31 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd) wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:56:02 GMT, wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:49:05 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:30:08 GMT, wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:09:45 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On 22 Dec 2004 10:03:38 -0800, wrote:

Greetings brothers ~

I have been searching for a while now on bleeding radiators...since the
bleeding I did last night seemed to cure about 75% of my insufficient
heat issue, I want to be sure I am doing it properly going forward.

Do you go from nearest to the boiler to farthest, or vice versa?
Somehow I would think farthest 1st...

Boiler should be running at normal operating temp when you bleed,
right?

Bleed at least a quart at each radiator? Less? More? How often when
a system shows trouble? (I am figuring a quart each, done every week
until the insufficient heat problem is gone?)

What about the expansion tank? Mine is a metal cylinder maybe 5 gallon
capacity, sitting just above the boiler. Should this thing be bled as
well? I understand they can sometimes become water-logged...

I hope that is comprehensive as far as what Q's come up for bleeding
FHW radiators so those that come searching can be helped.
Let's hear from the experts!

Thanks,


Bluesman


Unless you want a whole new set of problems, leave the expansion tank
alone.


That's just plain silly. Draining the expansion tank is very easy. No
more complicated than say, backwashing a swimming pool filter. I've
been doing it twice a year for a LOT of years.

Sometimes "pros" get funny ideas about things. I think this is one of
those times. You may have drained a few thousand expansion tanks and
ran into problems 20 times, so now you think it's a hazardous and
risky thing for anyone but a professional to deal with. I already
advised the guy that if his drain valve is clogged up, his service
contract will probably cover it. I didn't recommend that he try and
replace the valve by himself, in the unlikely event that it needs
replacement.

I knew a "professional" who worked in a G.M. transmission repair
facility. He was of the opinion that GM transmissions were lousy,
because every one of them he saw was broken! 8^)

BB

This system does NOT show symptoms of expansion tank problems, and
given the OP's level of expertise he is likely to do it wrong.


Nobody is saying that the expansion tank has anything to do with his
other problem. He just asked about how to drain it, which is a simple
and straightforward procedure. I'm betting he can handle it just fine.
He has shown that he asks questions when he's not sure of himself. If
he opens that drain and nothing comes out, I'm pretty sure he'll stop
and post a question in this newsgroup about how to proceed.

For that matter, what makes you think YOUR expansion tank needs annual
draining?


Because I reach up and feel that it is heavy and full. Draining it
also serves to evacuate some sediment, which if left alone WILL cause
problems. There is certainley no harm done by draining it
pweriodically, and it CAN help you to avoid other issues, such as an
overpressure safety valve dumping a few gallons of water on your floor
while you are away on vacation.

BB

That's just plain silly.

_______________

Gary R. Lloyd CMS

Please notice that I not only said "That's just plain silly in response to your
baloney, but I went on to explain WHY. I'm not surprised at all at this pouint
that you had nothing to back up your post. I guess it was just one more easy
excuse to post your SPAM sig.

BTW - A full expansion tank CAN cause air in a system. I'm betting you don't
know why or how. Good thing you retired so you won't be inadvertantly ripping
people off due to your incompetence.

BB

Sorry, I try not to feed trolls. Think whatever you want. Or don't.

Sheeeeeeeeesh.

Here comes the SPAM again:

_______________

Gary R. Lloyd CMS
HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software
Written by a veteran Service Technician

https://www.merchantamerica.com/tmethod/

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:42:02 GMT, wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:26:52 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd) wrote:

Sorry, I try not to feed trolls. Think whatever you want. Or don't.

Sheeeeeeeeesh.

Here comes the SPAM again:


Bingo!

Clearly that's the only reason you post here at all. You sure aren't looking to
help anybody you can't bill by the hour for your incompetence.

Meanwhile, my advice seems to be helping Mr. Blues with his problems


Don't look now, but he seems to be still having problems. Worse yet,
thanks to you he is considering letting the air out of his expansion
tank.

_______________

Gary R. Lloyd CMS
HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software
Written by a veteran Service Technician

https://www.merchantamerica.com/tmethod/

Bubba you dont know a ****in thing , clueless as you probably never been
in a 3 story house. My new weil Mc lain takes 12 lb for my 3 story
+basement ,You STFU you hack boi. And its called Altitude . But I bet
you never instaled a boiler or ever saw a Weil Mc Lain, moron

REBubbass . Response was to Radiators ****tard. You cant even read. Time
for you to REschool REtard

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:57:27 GMT, wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:50:05 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd) wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:42:02 GMT, wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:26:52 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd) wrote:

Sorry, I try not to feed trolls. Think whatever you want. Or don't.

Sheeeeeeeeesh.

Here comes the SPAM again:


Bingo!

Clearly that's the only reason you post here at all. You sure aren't looking to
help anybody you can't bill by the hour for your incompetence.

Meanwhile, my advice seems to be helping Mr. Blues with his problems


Don't look now, but he seems to be still having problems. Worse yet,
thanks to you he is considering letting the air out of his expansion
tank.

Funny, everyone else seems to think he is considering letting incompressible
WATER out of his expansion tank. If you knew anything about expansion tanks,
water, and air, you would know that the drain is on the bottom of the tank and
any air in that chamber is on the top. You should sign off and go back to your
spamming for your bogus book elsewhere. You haven't offered any help here. You
just post so you can add your SPAM sig. You sure have not enhanced the
perception that HVAC techs who post here are all blatant rip offs.

BB

Bill,
You've obviously not seen a fill trol or extrol tank. They dont have
drain valves on them. They have a male thread fitting on one end to
screw to the air separator and the other end has a needle valve
connection to test/pressurize the tank. NO DRAIN VALVE. Ive seen your
posts. The only hot water you should get near is the hot water in your
shower and the hot water in your instant coffee. Gary has probably
forgotton more than you will ever know. Now sit down, shut up and
learn a little.
Merry Christmas you ol fart.
Bubba

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:57:27 GMT, wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:50:05 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd) wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:42:02 GMT, wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:26:52 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd) wrote:

Sorry, I try not to feed trolls. Think whatever you want. Or don't.

Sheeeeeeeeesh.

Here comes the SPAM again:


Bingo!

Clearly that's the only reason you post here at all. You sure aren't looking to
help anybody you can't bill by the hour for your incompetence.

Meanwhile, my advice seems to be helping Mr. Blues with his problems


Don't look now, but he seems to be still having problems. Worse yet,
thanks to you he is considering letting the air out of his expansion
tank.

Funny, everyone else seems to think he is considering letting incompressible
WATER out of his expansion tank. If you knew anything about expansion tanks,
water, and air, you would know that the drain is on the bottom of the tank and
any air in that chamber is on the top.

Let's take a poll: Does anyone else think that schrader valve is going
to put out water?

You should sign off and go back to your
spamming for your bogus book elsewhere. You haven't offered any help here. You
just post so you can add your SPAM sig.

I help people, in exchange for which they put food on my table. This
seems to be a problem for you. What do you do for a living?

You sure have not enhanced the
perception that HVAC techs who post here are all blatant rip offs.

Everybody has one, and some are one.

_______________

Gary R. Lloyd CMS
HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software
Written by a veteran Service Technician

https://www.merchantamerica.com/tmethod/

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 01:06:41 GMT, Bubba
wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:57:27 GMT, wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:50:05 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd) wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:42:02 GMT, wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:26:52 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd) wrote:

Sorry, I try not to feed trolls. Think whatever you want. Or don't.

Sheeeeeeeeesh.

Here comes the SPAM again:


Bingo!

Clearly that's the only reason you post here at all. You sure aren't looking to
help anybody you can't bill by the hour for your incompetence.

Meanwhile, my advice seems to be helping Mr. Blues with his problems


Don't look now, but he seems to be still having problems. Worse yet,
thanks to you he is considering letting the air out of his expansion
tank.

Funny, everyone else seems to think he is considering letting incompressible
WATER out of his expansion tank. If you knew anything about expansion tanks,
water, and air, you would know that the drain is on the bottom of the tank and
any air in that chamber is on the top. You should sign off and go back to your
spamming for your bogus book elsewhere. You haven't offered any help here. You
just post so you can add your SPAM sig. You sure have not enhanced the
perception that HVAC techs who post here are all blatant rip offs.

BB

Bill,
You've obviously not seen a fill trol or extrol tank. They dont have
drain valves on them. They have a male thread fitting on one end to
screw to the air separator and the other end has a needle valve
connection to test/pressurize the tank. NO DRAIN VALVE. Ive seen your
posts. The only hot water you should get near is the hot water in your
shower and the hot water in your instant coffee. Gary has probably
forgotton more than you will ever know. Now sit down, shut up and
learn a little.
Merry Christmas you ol fart.
Bubba

Merry Christmas backatcha, Bubba... and to all !!!!

_______________

Gary R. Lloyd CMS
HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software
Written by a veteran Service Technician

https://www.merchantamerica.com/tmethod/

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 18:56:39 -0600, (m Ransley)
wrote:

Bubba you dont know a ****in thing , clueless as you probably never been
in a 3 story house. My new weil Mc lain takes 12 lb for my 3 story
+basement ,You STFU you hack boi. And its called Altitude . But I bet
you never instaled a boiler or ever saw a Weil Mc Lain, moron

3 story trailers dont count, turd.
Nope Ive never seen a fully modulating Weil Mclain hot water boiler.
Fully modulating? What they make that? Oh my Webtv boy. Your buddy
didnt tell you about the highest efficient boiler Weil Mclain makes?
Probably just as well. He, nor you would have a clue how to set it up.
Especially if he or you wanted to reprogram it for some of your own
parameters. hehe. What a dufuss. You couldnt beat your way out of a
paper bag filled with **** you little wet nurse. One day, you'll get a
clue. Wanna buy a vowel now, web boy?
Bubba

wrote
Greetings brothers ~

You should've stopped there! Betcha didn't think you would start world war
3. Some of these flames are so funny, I almost peed myself.

Happy Holidays.

In article , Bubba wrote:

The more you drain, the more you refill. Unless you are refilling with
clean distilled mineral free water (you arent) you are introducing
added minerals each time. Its a balancing act. You have to add water
once in a great while but the more you add the more minerals you add.
Expansion tanks do NOT need to be drained twice a year. If you have to
you need to find out why. Anytime you drain water at the boiler, you
usually wind up with air in the system at the upper radiators. Then
you have cold radiators.

I'd be more concerned with adding oxygen rich water to the system
than minerals. Hot, oxygen rich water is quite corrosive and will
eat your boiler. Or does the air stripper take care of that because
hot water can hold less disolved oxygen than cold water?

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 01:48:31 GMT, wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:57:27 GMT, wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:50:05 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd) wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:42:02 GMT, wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:26:52 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd) wrote:

Sorry, I try not to feed trolls. Think whatever you want. Or don't.

Sheeeeeeeeesh.

Here comes the SPAM again:


Bingo!

Clearly that's the only reason you post here at all. You sure aren't looking to
help anybody you can't bill by the hour for your incompetence.

Meanwhile, my advice seems to be helping Mr. Blues with his problems


Don't look now, but he seems to be still having problems. Worse yet,
thanks to you he is considering letting the air out of his expansion
tank.

Funny, everyone else seems to think he is considering letting incompressible
WATER out of his expansion tank. If you knew anything about expansion tanks,
water, and air, you would know that the drain is on the bottom of the tank and
any air in that chamber is on the top. You should sign off and go back to your
spamming for your bogus book elsewhere. You haven't offered any help here. You
just post so you can add your SPAM sig. You sure have not enhanced the
perception that HVAC techs who post here are all blatant rip offs.

BB

I'll repeat and enhance my statement in case anyone missed it:

The "professional" HVAC techs who post here rarely if ever post anything other
than plugs for themselves or their fellow techs. They are not interested in
helping anyone. Gary the Spammer has made several posts in this thread
disparaging my advise without offering any real help to the original poster. He
just trys to scare anyone who might attempt to resolve a problem on their own by
asking questions. That's typical of these tech school drop outs. If they can't
bill for it, they aren't interested, and if anybody posts information that might
cut into their money-making scams, they do their best to try and quash it with
even more FUD.

nuff said

BB

You are obviously starving for SPAM. Here's a little mo

_______________

Gary R. Lloyd CMS
HVACR Troubleshooting Books/Software
Written by a veteran Service Technician

https://www.merchantamerica.com/tmethod/

On 23 Dec 2004 02:02:15 GMT, Ed Clarke wrote:

In article , Bubba wrote:

The more you drain, the more you refill. Unless you are refilling with
clean distilled mineral free water (you arent) you are introducing
added minerals each time. Its a balancing act. You have to add water
once in a great while but the more you add the more minerals you add.
Expansion tanks do NOT need to be drained twice a year. If you have to
you need to find out why. Anytime you drain water at the boiler, you
usually wind up with air in the system at the upper radiators. Then
you have cold radiators.

I'd be more concerned with adding oxygen rich water to the system
than minerals. Hot, oxygen rich water is quite corrosive and will
eat your boiler. Or does the air stripper take care of that because
hot water can hold less disolved oxygen than cold water?

Well, since most water that Ive ever come across is rich in oxygen,
its going to be a little tough to remove it. Have you ever seen what
mineral deposits and calcium deposits do to a hot water boiler? It
causes excessive heating to the cast iron sections because of the
insulating minerals that dont belong there. Next thing you know, you
have water on the floor from a busted boiler section. I'll take my
chances with the "oxygenated" water you speak of. I can remove the air
easily. The mineral deposits in the bottom of the boiler can be very
expensive to flush. They dont just come flying out when you open the
boiler drain.
Are you confusing this with a steam boiler? AND I have no idea what a
air stripper is. Is that like a water washer?
Bubba

In article , Bubba wrote:

have water on the floor from a busted boiler section. I'll take my
chances with the "oxygenated" water you speak of. I can remove the air
easily. The mineral deposits in the bottom of the boiler can be very
expensive to flush. They dont just come flying out when you open the
boiler drain.

There will be little disolved O2 in a properly working hot water system
because it will have been removed as rust in the boiler. When the O2 is
used up, the rusting stops. If you keep adding feed water, you will keep
rusting the boiler. Larger (non home) systems add oxygen scavenger and
sludge reduction chemicals to the system but I've never seen this in a
home situation. The guys at work who do use these chemicals have a lot
of training and it's a high pressure steam system there anyway.

A home boiler should outlast the homeowner unless there is something
very wrong somewhere ( like a leak or someone who keeps draining lots of
water out of the system for some reason ). They're cheap anyway at $1500
to $2500 for reasonable sized houses. I think I paid $3000 including
install. And $100/year for the service contract which includes cleaning.

Are you confusing this with a steam boiler? AND I have no idea what a
air stripper is. Is that like a water washer?

It might be a brand name; it's an automatic vent. On my HW system, the
installers placed one on top of the boiler and another one near the
expansion tank. It's a little chrome plated cylinder with a float inside
that lets air out of the system without human intervention.

"Gary R. Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:57:27 GMT, wrote:

Funny, everyone else seems to think he is considering letting
incompressible
WATER out of his expansion tank. If you knew anything about expansion
tanks,
water, and air, you would know that the drain is on the bottom of the
tank and
any air in that chamber is on the top.

Let's take a poll: Does anyone else think that schrader valve is going
to put out water?


Its for air, and it dont matter whether the bladder is located above or
below the water line.

--

SVL

Retard- Bubba, You cant even read! I never stated "Fully Modulating" .
You are such an idiot Buba. So what Is "fully modulating" but who cares
I never mentioned it.

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 06:31:58 -0600, (m Ransley)
wrote:

Retard- Bubba, You cant even read! I never stated "Fully Modulating" .
You are such an idiot Buba. So what Is "fully modulating" but who cares
I never mentioned it.

You dont know. Thats why you are a stupid retarted webtv homemoaner.
You always will be. It must really suck to be you.
By the way, dickhead, reread my post. I never said you had fully
modulating. I merely pointed out a Weil McLain you had no clue about.
Ive installed more of them than you will ever imagine.
Go figure.
Bubba

More inserted.

--

Christopher A. Young
Keep Jesus Christ in CHRISTmas
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


wrote in message
oups.com...
Greetings brothers ~

I have been searching for a while now on bleeding radiators...since the
bleeding I did last night seemed to cure about 75% of my insufficient
heat issue, I want to be sure I am doing it properly going forward.
SM: Is your system hot water, low pressure steam, or high pressure steam?


Do you go from nearest to the boiler to farthest, or vice versa?
Somehow I would think farthest 1st...
SM: I'm not sure it makes any difference. I'll assume for now that you have
a hot water system. In any case, the goal is to remove air from the system.


Boiler should be running at normal operating temp when you bleed,
right?
SM: Yes, that makes sense. You don't have much choice, unless you want to
turn off the power and the fuel supply.


Bleed at least a quart at each radiator? Less? More? How often when
a system shows trouble? (I am figuring a quart each, done every week
until the insufficient heat problem is gone?)
SM: Bleed the air out. Until water squirts. There is no advange (that I know
of) to filling a bucket or a teacup with water. Open the bleeder until the
air is released, and water comes out.


What about the expansion tank? Mine is a metal cylinder maybe 5 gallon
capacity, sitting just above the boiler. Should this thing be bled as
well? I understand they can sometimes become water-logged...
SM: Yes, but the goal here is different. The expansion tank SHOULD have air
in it. Close the valve from the tank to the system, and then open the drain.
The water will come out in spurts and glugs. It may take all day to drain
the water out of the expansion tank. After all the water is out of the
expansion tank, close the drain and reopen the valve to the system.


I hope that is comprehensive as far as what Q's come up for bleeding
FHW radiators so those that come searching can be helped.
Let's hear from the experts!

Thanks,


Bluesman
SM: If you are hving trouble with air in the system, you may well need a
new air eliminator. A heating pro can install one of these for you. It
mounts on top of the boiler, and automatically removes air. If the pressure
in the system is less than about 12 PSI, you may also need a new fill valve.
A heating guy can install one of these for you, too.

You could trim some exess text, fellows.

--

Christopher A. Young
Keep Jesus Christ in CHRISTmas
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


wrote in message
...
On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 18:57:23 -0500, "HeatMan"
wrote:


wrote in message
news
On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 21:02:31 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:56:02 GMT, wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:49:05 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:30:08 GMT, wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:09:45 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On 22 Dec 2004 10:03:38 -0800, wrote:

"Gary R. Lloyd" wrote in message
...
On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:57:27 GMT, wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:50:05 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:42:02 GMT, wrote:

On Thu, 23 Dec 2004 00:26:52 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

Sorry, I try not to feed trolls. Think whatever you want. Or don't.

Sheeeeeeeeesh.

Here comes the SPAM again:


Bingo!

Clearly that's the only reason you post here at all. You sure aren't
looking to
help anybody you can't bill by the hour for your incompetence.

Meanwhile, my advice seems to be helping Mr. Blues with his problems


Don't look now, but he seems to be still having problems. Worse yet,
thanks to you he is considering letting the air out of his expansion
tank.

Funny, everyone else seems to think he is considering letting
incompressible
WATER out of his expansion tank. If you knew anything about expansion
tanks,
water, and air, you would know that the drain is on the bottom of the
tank and
any air in that chamber is on the top.

Let's take a poll: Does anyone else think that schrader valve is going
to put out water?


I think it will, but only if the diaphram has busted....