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Stormin Mormon
 
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More inserted.

--

Christopher A. Young
Keep Jesus Christ in CHRISTmas
www.lds.org
www.mormons.com


wrote in message
oups.com...
Greetings brothers ~

I have been searching for a while now on bleeding radiators...since the
bleeding I did last night seemed to cure about 75% of my insufficient
heat issue, I want to be sure I am doing it properly going forward.
SM: Is your system hot water, low pressure steam, or high pressure steam?


Do you go from nearest to the boiler to farthest, or vice versa?
Somehow I would think farthest 1st...
SM: I'm not sure it makes any difference. I'll assume for now that you have
a hot water system. In any case, the goal is to remove air from the system.


Boiler should be running at normal operating temp when you bleed,
right?
SM: Yes, that makes sense. You don't have much choice, unless you want to
turn off the power and the fuel supply.


Bleed at least a quart at each radiator? Less? More? How often when
a system shows trouble? (I am figuring a quart each, done every week
until the insufficient heat problem is gone?)
SM: Bleed the air out. Until water squirts. There is no advange (that I know
of) to filling a bucket or a teacup with water. Open the bleeder until the
air is released, and water comes out.


What about the expansion tank? Mine is a metal cylinder maybe 5 gallon
capacity, sitting just above the boiler. Should this thing be bled as
well? I understand they can sometimes become water-logged...
SM: Yes, but the goal here is different. The expansion tank SHOULD have air
in it. Close the valve from the tank to the system, and then open the drain.
The water will come out in spurts and glugs. It may take all day to drain
the water out of the expansion tank. After all the water is out of the
expansion tank, close the drain and reopen the valve to the system.


I hope that is comprehensive as far as what Q's come up for bleeding
FHW radiators so those that come searching can be helped.
Let's hear from the experts!

Thanks,


Bluesman
SM: If you are hving trouble with air in the system, you may well need a
new air eliminator. A heating pro can install one of these for you. It
mounts on top of the boiler, and automatically removes air. If the pressure
in the system is less than about 12 PSI, you may also need a new fill valve.
A heating guy can install one of these for you, too.