On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:56:02 GMT, wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:49:05 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:30:08 GMT, wrote:

On Wed, 22 Dec 2004 20:09:45 GMT, (Gary R. Lloyd)
wrote:

On 22 Dec 2004 10:03:38 -0800, wrote:

Greetings brothers ~

I have been searching for a while now on bleeding radiators...since the
bleeding I did last night seemed to cure about 75% of my insufficient
heat issue, I want to be sure I am doing it properly going forward.

Do you go from nearest to the boiler to farthest, or vice versa?
Somehow I would think farthest 1st...

Boiler should be running at normal operating temp when you bleed,
right?

Bleed at least a quart at each radiator? Less? More? How often when
a system shows trouble? (I am figuring a quart each, done every week
until the insufficient heat problem is gone?)

What about the expansion tank? Mine is a metal cylinder maybe 5 gallon
capacity, sitting just above the boiler. Should this thing be bled as
well? I understand they can sometimes become water-logged...

I hope that is comprehensive as far as what Q's come up for bleeding
FHW radiators so those that come searching can be helped.
Let's hear from the experts!

Thanks,


Bluesman


Unless you want a whole new set of problems, leave the expansion tank
alone.


That's just plain silly. Draining the expansion tank is very easy. No
more complicated than say, backwashing a swimming pool filter. I've
been doing it twice a year for a LOT of years.

Sometimes "pros" get funny ideas about things. I think this is one of
those times. You may have drained a few thousand expansion tanks and
ran into problems 20 times, so now you think it's a hazardous and
risky thing for anyone but a professional to deal with. I already
advised the guy that if his drain valve is clogged up, his service
contract will probably cover it. I didn't recommend that he try and
replace the valve by himself, in the unlikely event that it needs
replacement.

I knew a "professional" who worked in a G.M. transmission repair
facility. He was of the opinion that GM transmissions were lousy,
because every one of them he saw was broken! 8^)

BB

This system does NOT show symptoms of expansion tank problems, and
given the OP's level of expertise he is likely to do it wrong.


Nobody is saying that the expansion tank has anything to do with his
other problem. He just asked about how to drain it, which is a simple
and straightforward procedure. I'm betting he can handle it just fine.
He has shown that he asks questions when he's not sure of himself. If
he opens that drain and nothing comes out, I'm pretty sure he'll stop
and post a question in this newsgroup about how to proceed.

For that matter, what makes you think YOUR expansion tank needs annual
draining?


Because I reach up and feel that it is heavy and full. Draining it
also serves to evacuate some sediment, which if left alone WILL cause
problems. There is certainley no harm done by draining it
pweriodically, and it CAN help you to avoid other issues, such as an
overpressure safety valve dumping a few gallons of water on your floor
while you are away on vacation.

BB

The more you drain, the more you refill. Unless you are refilling with
clean distilled mineral free water (you arent) you are introducing
added minerals each time. Its a balancing act. You have to add water
once in a great while but the more you add the more minerals you add.
Expansion tanks do NOT need to be drained twice a year. If you have to
you need to find out why. Anytime you drain water at the boiler, you
usually wind up with air in the system at the upper radiators. Then
you have cold radiators. Then you have a call back. Purging air from a
hot water system may be easy for you but it is costly when a technican
has to do it. I dont drain water or purge radiators for free.
Bubba