I'm a woman and do a lot of my own home remodel/repair work... sooooo, How's
the best way to cut a long thin trench into a concrete floor that has rebar?
Got a kennel and want to install a trench drain in an existing floor. The cut
will be about 25ft long and about 8-10in wide. What's the different ways a
homeowner can use to complete the task? (Mind you I'll have to rent the
tools).

--
for full context, visit http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...r-1119171-.htm

On 12/24/2016 11:44 PM, Sassy-mae wrote:
I'm a woman and do a lot of my own home remodel/repair work... sooooo,
How's
the best way to cut a long thin trench into a concrete floor that has
rebar? Got a kennel and want to install a trench drain in an existing
floor. The cut
will be about 25ft long and about 8-10in wide. What's the different ways a
homeowner can use to complete the task? (Mind you I'll have to rent the
tools).

There are saws that us abrasive wheels that will do the job. Should be
able to rent one and buy the blade.

You may also want to call a concrete cutting specialist. I've used them
twice and the price was reasonable and it was done quickly. Most will
give you a price on the phone. Remember, you have 50 feet of cutting to
do to make a 25' long trench.

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 04:44:01 +0000, Sassy-mae
m wrote:

I'm a woman and do a lot of my own home remodel/repair work... sooooo, How's
the best way to cut a long thin trench into a concrete floor that has rebar?
Got a kennel and want to install a trench drain in an existing floor. The cut
will be about 25ft long and about 8-10in wide. What's the different ways a
homeowner can use to complete the task? (Mind you I'll have to rent the
tools).



https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concrete_saw

Re-bar or wire mesh ?

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 00:14:53 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 04:44:01 +0000, Sassy-mae
om wrote:

I'm a woman and do a lot of my own home remodel/repair work... sooooo, How's
the best way to cut a long thin trench into a concrete floor that has rebar?
Got a kennel and want to install a trench drain in an existing floor. The cut
will be about 25ft long and about 8-10in wide. What's the different ways a
homeowner can use to complete the task? (Mind you I'll have to rent the
tools).



https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Concrete_saw

Re-bar or wire mesh ?

What size re-bar? Makes a difference.

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 04:44:01 +0000, Sassy-mae
m wrote:

I'm a woman and do a lot of my own home remodel/repair work... sooooo, How's
the best way to cut a long thin trench into a concrete floor that has rebar?
Got a kennel and want to install a trench drain in an existing floor. The cut
will be about 25ft long and about 8-10in wide. What's the different ways a
homeowner can use to complete the task? (Mind you I'll have to rent the
tools).

Cutoff saw with a diamond blade. It will go right through it. They may
make you buy the blade tho.
You can also do it with a carborundum blade but it will go a lot
slower

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 04:44:01 +0000, Sassy-mae
m wrote:

I'm a woman and do a lot of my own home remodel/repair work... sooooo, How's
the best way to cut a long thin trench into a concrete floor that has rebar?
Got a kennel and want to install a trench drain in an existing floor. The cut
will be about 25ft long and about 8-10in wide. What's the different ways a
homeowner can use to complete the task? (Mind you I'll have to rent the
tools).

If you own a typical 7.25 inch circular saw, I have personally used
these Skil brand diamond blades to cut reinforced concrete.

http://amzn.to/2irAcOY

It will be far less expensive for you to buy this blade and an A/C
powered circular saw then it will be for you to rent a specialty
concrete cutting saw.

My best advice is to make several shallow cuts until you reach the
desired depth, advance the saw slowly and wear hearing and vision
protection.

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 13:15:48 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 04:44:01 +0000, Sassy-mae
om wrote:

I'm a woman and do a lot of my own home remodel/repair work... sooooo, How's
the best way to cut a long thin trench into a concrete floor that has rebar?
Got a kennel and want to install a trench drain in an existing floor. The cut
will be about 25ft long and about 8-10in wide. What's the different ways a
homeowner can use to complete the task? (Mind you I'll have to rent the
tools).

If you own a typical 7.25 inch circular saw, I have personally used
these Skil brand diamond blades to cut reinforced concrete.

http://amzn.to/2irAcOY

It will be far less expensive for you to buy this blade and an A/C
powered circular saw then it will be for you to rent a specialty
concrete cutting saw.

My best advice is to make several shallow cuts until you reach the
desired depth, advance the saw slowly and wear hearing and vision
protection.

The desired depth will be a couple inches less than the maximum depth
possible with a 7.25" blade. If you make the cuts on both sides and
start digging the dirt out from the edge, the concrete will be easy to
break sitting over the cavity you make. You dig several inches out,
under the part you are removing and hit the concrete with a big
hammer. It actually goes faster than it sounds if you have 2 guys
working. Use a narrow trench shovel.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Long...Spade/50299967
Concrete is pretty hard to break if it is sitting on compacted soil.

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 09:17:34 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 13:15:48 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 04:44:01 +0000, Sassy-mae
caedfaa9ed1216d60ef78a6f660f5f85_10482@example. com wrote:

I'm a woman and do a lot of my own home remodel/repair work... sooooo, How's
the best way to cut a long thin trench into a concrete floor that has rebar?
Got a kennel and want to install a trench drain in an existing floor. The cut
will be about 25ft long and about 8-10in wide. What's the different ways a
homeowner can use to complete the task? (Mind you I'll have to rent the
tools).

If you own a typical 7.25 inch circular saw, I have personally used
these Skil brand diamond blades to cut reinforced concrete.

http://amzn.to/2irAcOY

It will be far less expensive for you to buy this blade and an A/C
powered circular saw then it will be for you to rent a specialty
concrete cutting saw.

My best advice is to make several shallow cuts until you reach the
desired depth, advance the saw slowly and wear hearing and vision
protection.

The desired depth will be a couple inches less than the maximum depth
possible with a 7.25" blade. If you make the cuts on both sides and
start digging the dirt out from the edge, the concrete will be easy to
break sitting over the cavity you make. You dig several inches out,
under the part you are removing and hit the concrete with a big
hammer. It actually goes faster than it sounds if you have 2 guys
working. Use a narrow trench shovel.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Long...Spade/50299967
Concrete is pretty hard to break if it is sitting on compacted soil.

Did I miss something? How do you know the thickness of the concrete
she is cutting? Are you speculating?

"Stormin' Norman" wrote in message
...
On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 04:44:01 +0000, Sassy-mae
m wrote:

I'm a woman and do a lot of my own home remodel/repair work... sooooo,
How's
the best way to cut a long thin trench into a concrete floor that has
rebar?
Got a kennel and want to install a trench drain in an existing floor. The
cut
will be about 25ft long and about 8-10in wide. What's the different ways a
homeowner can use to complete the task? (Mind you I'll have to rent the
tools).

If you own a typical 7.25 inch circular saw, I have personally used
these Skil brand diamond blades to cut reinforced concrete.

http://amzn.to/2irAcOY

Probably won't cut deep enough. A concrete saw (rented) will AND you can
stand up while you cut
http://www6.homedepot.com/tool-truck...CX3/index.html

If the slab most common in a home has post tensioned cables inside, thats a severe safety issue. my brother had this come up in his home, a below slab water line broke,

he had to have his slab x rayed to avoid hitting any cables.

i doubt this is a issue for the OP but might be a issue for someone else

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 08:41:56 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

If the slab most common in a home has post tensioned cables inside, thats a severe safety issue. my brother had this come up in his home, a below slab water line broke,

he had to have his slab x rayed to avoid hitting any cables.

i doubt this is a issue for the OP but might be a issue for someone else

My foundation is cable tensioned. You notice a cable (s) sticking out
of the foundation an inch or less --- not in all cases, though. Some
home builders put a stamp in the garage pad to indicate the slab is
cable tensioned (no all do).

It is worth knowing before you cut the concrete. I was lucky we
missed the cable in a master bath reno.

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 09:26:18 -0800, Oren wrote:

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 08:41:56 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

If the slab most common in a home has post tensioned cables inside, thats a severe safety issue. my brother had this come up in his home, a below slab water line broke,

he had to have his slab x rayed to avoid hitting any cables.

i doubt this is a issue for the OP but might be a issue for someone else

My foundation is cable tensioned. You notice a cable (s) sticking out
of the foundation an inch or less --- not in all cases, though. Some
home builders put a stamp in the garage pad to indicate the slab is
cable tensioned (no all do).

It is worth knowing before you cut the concrete. I was lucky we
missed the cable in a master bath reno.

Yikes
It would never occur to me that residential 1&2 would do this.
Of the 2 states I have lived and built in, you are lucky to see steel
although Florida is better than Maryland was. It is still just going
to be wire mesh or rebar.
In the 70s in Md, rebar in the footer was not even that common.

If the slab most common in a home has post tensioned cables inside,
thats a severe safety issue. my brother had this come up in his home,
a below slab water line broke, he had to have his slab x rayed
to avoid hitting any cables.
I doubt this is a issue for the OP but might be a issue for someone else


My foundation is cable tensioned. You notice a cable (s) sticking out
of the foundation an inch or less --- not in all cases, though. Some
home builders put a stamp in the garage pad to indicate the slab is
cable tensioned (no all do).
It is worth knowing before you cut the concrete. I was lucky we
missed the cable in a master bath reno.


Here's a " Learn something new every day " moment, for me.
I had no idea that this was ever used in homes !
Is it used for certain special cases ? like no proper footings or
architectural design .. or something ?

https://buyersask.com/lesson-4/post-...n-slab-lesson/

John T.

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 13:46:45 -0500, wrote:


If the slab most common in a home has post tensioned cables inside,
thats a severe safety issue. my brother had this come up in his home,
a below slab water line broke, he had to have his slab x rayed
to avoid hitting any cables.
I doubt this is a issue for the OP but might be a issue for someone else


My foundation is cable tensioned. You notice a cable (s) sticking out
of the foundation an inch or less --- not in all cases, though. Some
home builders put a stamp in the garage pad to indicate the slab is
cable tensioned (no all do).
It is worth knowing before you cut the concrete. I was lucky we
missed the cable in a master bath reno.


Here's a " Learn something new every day " moment, for me.
I had no idea that this was ever used in homes !
Is it used for certain special cases ? like no proper footings or
architectural design .. or something ?

https://buyersask.com/lesson-4/post-...n-slab-lesson/

John T.

This video is a builder in AZ. I'm in NV. I had never seen this
construction or knew about it until after I bought the house.

Stick built and stucco exterior. Never have had a crack in the
drywall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7skQS_AFuUw

Oren posted for all of us...



On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 13:46:45 -0500, wrote:


If the slab most common in a home has post tensioned cables inside,
thats a severe safety issue. my brother had this come up in his home,
a below slab water line broke, he had to have his slab x rayed
to avoid hitting any cables.
I doubt this is a issue for the OP but might be a issue for someone else


My foundation is cable tensioned. You notice a cable (s) sticking out
of the foundation an inch or less --- not in all cases, though. Some
home builders put a stamp in the garage pad to indicate the slab is
cable tensioned (no all do).
It is worth knowing before you cut the concrete. I was lucky we
missed the cable in a master bath reno.


Here's a " Learn something new every day " moment, for me.
I had no idea that this was ever used in homes !
Is it used for certain special cases ? like no proper footings or
architectural design .. or something ?

https://buyersask.com/lesson-4/post-...n-slab-lesson/

John T.

This video is a builder in AZ. I'm in NV. I had never seen this
construction or knew about it until after I bought the house.

Stick built and stucco exterior. Never have had a crack in the
drywall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7skQS_AFuUw

Never heard of it in residential either. I'll be gol danged.
I bet that jumps the price up.

--
Tekkie

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 15:38:51 -0500, Tekkie®
wrote:

Oren posted for all of us...



On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 13:46:45 -0500, wrote:


If the slab most common in a home has post tensioned cables inside,
thats a severe safety issue. my brother had this come up in his home,
a below slab water line broke, he had to have his slab x rayed
to avoid hitting any cables.
I doubt this is a issue for the OP but might be a issue for someone else


My foundation is cable tensioned. You notice a cable (s) sticking out
of the foundation an inch or less --- not in all cases, though. Some
home builders put a stamp in the garage pad to indicate the slab is
cable tensioned (no all do).
It is worth knowing before you cut the concrete. I was lucky we
missed the cable in a master bath reno.


Here's a " Learn something new every day " moment, for me.
I had no idea that this was ever used in homes !
Is it used for certain special cases ? like no proper footings or
architectural design .. or something ?

https://buyersask.com/lesson-4/post-...n-slab-lesson/

John T.

This video is a builder in AZ. I'm in NV. I had never seen this
construction or knew about it until after I bought the house.

Stick built and stucco exterior. Never have had a crack in the
drywall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7skQS_AFuUw

Never heard of it in residential either. I'll be gol danged.
I bet that jumps the price up.

They just do mono slab here (or slab over stem wall). There is a 16"
deep (total) ring around the house with 2 #5s in it and a 4" slab
across the floor with 6 over wire in it. If the ground was properly
compacted, that ends up being plenty stable. I have terrazzo over than
and there are no cracks here after 53 years.
The stucco over plywood is far more troubling, particularly around
penetrations like windows and doors. A couple companies in Atlanta got
their ass sued off over that.
Here it is usually stucco over block. By the time you buy all of the
hurricane clips for stick built, block ends up cheaper or at least
comparable. You basically have to clip every joint where the sticks
meet on every load bearing wall and post and anchor that to the
footer. In block construction you just dowel the cells every 4' and
pour them solid, then you pour a tie beam on top (with 4 #5s) and
embed clips for the trusses. It goes a lot faster.
The 2400 sq foot house they are building around the corner went from
pouring the slab to truss in less than 2 weeks. They lost some days
for concrete set and inspections too. The block crew was at tie beam
in a day after the slab set.

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 14:27:41 -0000, Stormin' Norman wrote:

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 09:17:34 -0500, wrote:

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 13:15:48 +0000, Stormin' Norman
wrote:

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 04:44:01 +0000, Sassy-mae
m wrote:

I'm a woman and do a lot of my own home remodel/repair work... sooooo, How's
the best way to cut a long thin trench into a concrete floor that has rebar?
Got a kennel and want to install a trench drain in an existing floor. The cut
will be about 25ft long and about 8-10in wide. What's the different ways a
homeowner can use to complete the task? (Mind you I'll have to rent the
tools).

If you own a typical 7.25 inch circular saw, I have personally used
these Skil brand diamond blades to cut reinforced concrete.

http://amzn.to/2irAcOY

It will be far less expensive for you to buy this blade and an A/C
powered circular saw then it will be for you to rent a specialty
concrete cutting saw.

My best advice is to make several shallow cuts until you reach the
desired depth, advance the saw slowly and wear hearing and vision
protection.

The desired depth will be a couple inches less than the maximum depth
possible with a 7.25" blade. If you make the cuts on both sides and
start digging the dirt out from the edge, the concrete will be easy to
break sitting over the cavity you make. You dig several inches out,
under the part you are removing and hit the concrete with a big
hammer. It actually goes faster than it sounds if you have 2 guys
working. Use a narrow trench shovel.
https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Long...Spade/50299967
Concrete is pretty hard to break if it is sitting on compacted soil.

Did I miss something? How do you know the thickness of the concrete
she is cutting? Are you speculating?

She said the width she wants.

--
In the 60's people took acid to make the world weird.
Now the world is weird, people take prozac to make it normal.

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 16:41:56 -0000, bob haller wrote:

If the slab most common in a home has post tensioned cables inside, thats a severe safety issue. my brother had this come up in his home, a below slab water line broke,

he had to have his slab x rayed to avoid hitting any cables.

i doubt this is a issue for the OP but might be a issue for someone else

Why are some houses made with a foundation throughout? Here they're just foundation under the walls. The floor is wooden, 2 feet above the ground, which means you can get under easily to run cables and pipes.

--
Why is Bin Laden like a pair of tights?
Because he irritates bush!

On 12/26/2016 5:07 PM, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 16:41:56 -0000, bob haller wrote:

If the slab most common in a home has post tensioned cables inside, thats a severe safety issue. my brother had this come up in his home, a below slab water line broke,

he had to have his slab x rayed to avoid hitting any cables.

i doubt this is a issue for the OP but might be a issue for someone else

Why are some houses made with a foundation throughout? Here they're just foundation under the walls. The floor is wooden, 2 feet above the ground, which means you can get under easily to run cables and pipes.


Here the minimum code is 1 meter crawl space, crawl space floor must be 101.6 mm concrete, exterior footings must be sitting on undisturbed soil below frost line.

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 22:59:23 -0000, Taxpayer wrote:

On 12/26/2016 5:07 PM, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 16:41:56 -0000, bob haller wrote:

If the slab most common in a home has post tensioned cables inside, thats a severe safety issue. my brother had this come up in his home, a below slab water line broke,

he had to have his slab x rayed to avoid hitting any cables.

i doubt this is a issue for the OP but might be a issue for someone else

Why are some houses made with a foundation throughout? Here they're just foundation under the walls. The floor is wooden, 2 feet above the ground, which means you can get under easily to run cables and pipes.

Here the minimum code is 1 meter crawl space, crawl space floor must be 101.6 mm concrete, exterior footings must be sitting on undisturbed soil below frost line.

What is the point of the concrete where there isn't a wall on it? You don't need it in the middle of the house.

And 1 metre?! You must have a lot of steps to get into your house.

--
When I got home last night, my wife demanded that I take her somewhere expensive... So, I took her to a petrol station...
And then the fight started...

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 15:38:51 -0500, Tekkie®
wrote:

This video is a builder in AZ. I'm in NV. I had never seen this
construction or knew about it until after I bought the house.

Stick built and stucco exterior. Never have had a crack in the
drywall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7skQS_AFuUw

Never heard of it in residential either. I'll be gol danged.
I bet that jumps the price up.


Not sure of the price. The video mentions you don't see the cables
after it is stressed. Maybe they cut one wrong as I do have one cable
exposed from the foundation and inch or less - scratched my head
wondering about it. Then with MB remodel we barely missed it moving
the tub drain line over.

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 16:54:05 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 15:38:51 -0500, Tekkie®
wrote:

Oren posted for all of us...



On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 13:46:45 -0500, wrote:


If the slab most common in a home has post tensioned cables inside,
thats a severe safety issue. my brother had this come up in his home,
a below slab water line broke, he had to have his slab x rayed
to avoid hitting any cables.
I doubt this is a issue for the OP but might be a issue for someone else


My foundation is cable tensioned. You notice a cable (s) sticking out
of the foundation an inch or less --- not in all cases, though. Some
home builders put a stamp in the garage pad to indicate the slab is
cable tensioned (no all do).
It is worth knowing before you cut the concrete. I was lucky we
missed the cable in a master bath reno.


Here's a " Learn something new every day " moment, for me.
I had no idea that this was ever used in homes !
Is it used for certain special cases ? like no proper footings or
architectural design .. or something ?

https://buyersask.com/lesson-4/post-...n-slab-lesson/

John T.

This video is a builder in AZ. I'm in NV. I had never seen this
construction or knew about it until after I bought the house.

Stick built and stucco exterior. Never have had a crack in the
drywall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7skQS_AFuUw

Never heard of it in residential either. I'll be gol danged.
I bet that jumps the price up.

They just do mono slab here (or slab over stem wall). There is a 16"
deep (total) ring around the house with 2 #5s in it and a 4" slab
across the floor with 6 over wire in it. If the ground was properly
compacted, that ends up being plenty stable. I have terrazzo over than
and there are no cracks here after 53 years.
The stucco over plywood is far more troubling, particularly around
penetrations like windows and doors. A couple companies in Atlanta got
their ass sued off over that.
Here it is usually stucco over block. By the time you buy all of the
hurricane clips for stick built, block ends up cheaper or at least
comparable. You basically have to clip every joint where the sticks
meet on every load bearing wall and post and anchor that to the
footer. In block construction you just dowel the cells every 4' and
pour them solid, then you pour a tie beam on top (with 4 #5s) and
embed clips for the trusses. It goes a lot faster.
The 2400 sq foot house they are building around the corner went from
pouring the slab to truss in less than 2 weeks. They lost some days
for concrete set and inspections too. The block crew was at tie beam
in a day after the slab set.

My exterior walls are 2X6 with wire and stucco. ~20 years old with
very minor hairline cracks (very, very few) around a couple of
windows. When I added the patio cover years ago, there is only one
small crack so far. The ground here is like hard pan dirt. For some
reason they make you dig it all out, compact it and then poor the
foundation...

My other three homes I used to own were not cable tensioned
foundations. Same type stick and stucco.

These clowns out here don't use rebar or wire in a 4" driveway pad
like back east -- mumble mumble :-)

MY BROTHER LIVES IN PHOENIX AZ nearly no homes have basements or crawl space. slab constuction is the norm...

probably fewer issues with bugs, phoenix has a big problem with floods. they dont happen often but are nasty when they occur.......

my dads new home has water retention ponds thru the neighborhood.

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 23:05:38 -0000, "James Wilkinson Sword"
wrote:

What is the point of the concrete where there isn't a wall on it? You don't need it in the middle of the house.


They build a lot of slab on grade houses here.
Even when they are on a stem wall, they generally fill the box and
pour a slab. It may be termites. If they get loose in a wood floor you
might end up dropping into the crawlspace.

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 16:54:05 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 15:38:51 -0500, Tekkie®
wrote:

Oren posted for all of us...



On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 13:46:45 -0500, wrote:


If the slab most common in a home has post tensioned cables inside,
thats a severe safety issue. my brother had this come up in his home,
a below slab water line broke, he had to have his slab x rayed
to avoid hitting any cables.
I doubt this is a issue for the OP but might be a issue for someone else


My foundation is cable tensioned. You notice a cable (s) sticking out
of the foundation an inch or less --- not in all cases, though. Some
home builders put a stamp in the garage pad to indicate the slab is
cable tensioned (no all do).
It is worth knowing before you cut the concrete. I was lucky we
missed the cable in a master bath reno.


Here's a " Learn something new every day " moment, for me.
I had no idea that this was ever used in homes !
Is it used for certain special cases ? like no proper footings or
architectural design .. or something ?

https://buyersask.com/lesson-4/post-...n-slab-lesson/

John T.

This video is a builder in AZ. I'm in NV. I had never seen this
construction or knew about it until after I bought the house.

Stick built and stucco exterior. Never have had a crack in the
drywall.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7skQS_AFuUw

Never heard of it in residential either. I'll be gol danged.
I bet that jumps the price up.

They just do mono slab here (or slab over stem wall). There is a 16"
deep (total) ring around the house with 2 #5s in it and a 4" slab
across the floor with 6 over wire in it. If the ground was properly
compacted, that ends up being plenty stable. I have terrazzo over than
and there are no cracks here after 53 years.
The stucco over plywood is far more troubling, particularly around
penetrations like windows and doors. A couple companies in Atlanta got
their ass sued off over that.
Here it is usually stucco over block. By the time you buy all of the
hurricane clips for stick built, block ends up cheaper or at least
comparable. You basically have to clip every joint where the sticks
meet on every load bearing wall and post and anchor that to the
footer. In block construction you just dowel the cells every 4' and
pour them solid, then you pour a tie beam on top (with 4 #5s) and
embed clips for the trusses. It goes a lot faster.
The 2400 sq foot house they are building around the corner went from
pouring the slab to truss in less than 2 weeks. They lost some days
for concrete set and inspections too. The block crew was at tie beam
in a day after the slab set.
If you are stuccoing, ICF is the way to go. Great in Hurricaine
country too.

On 12/26/2016 9:12 PM, wrote:

If you are stuccoing, ICF is the way to go. Great in Hurricaine
country too.


ICF (insulating concrete forms) are good everywhere. Energy savings,
termite proof, quiet, etc. Good in tornado area too. They can be
finished in any ways, not just stucco.
http://www.standardicf.net/
www.integraspec.com

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 21:12:00 -0500, wrote:

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 16:54:05 -0500, wrote:

They just do mono slab here (or slab over stem wall). There is a 16"
deep (total) ring around the house with 2 #5s in it and a 4" slab
across the floor with 6 over wire in it. If the ground was properly
compacted, that ends up being plenty stable. I have terrazzo over than
and there are no cracks here after 53 years.
The stucco over plywood is far more troubling, particularly around
penetrations like windows and doors. A couple companies in Atlanta got
their ass sued off over that.
Here it is usually stucco over block. By the time you buy all of the
hurricane clips for stick built, block ends up cheaper or at least
comparable. You basically have to clip every joint where the sticks
meet on every load bearing wall and post and anchor that to the
footer. In block construction you just dowel the cells every 4' and
pour them solid, then you pour a tie beam on top (with 4 #5s) and
embed clips for the trusses. It goes a lot faster.
The 2400 sq foot house they are building around the corner went from
pouring the slab to truss in less than 2 weeks. They lost some days
for concrete set and inspections too. The block crew was at tie beam
in a day after the slab set.
If you are stuccoing, ICF is the way to go. Great in Hurricaine
country too.

ICF looks interesting but I have only seen one building using them
here. They just tore it down. I would have liked to see how hard that
was to do but it was gone in a day. (Commercial property going another
way)
I have seen a few strange things over the years here. When I was
working I inspected a Y-Tong concrete building. It was tilt up
construction with all of the walls coming in on a truck. (A kiddie
jail). The stuff was so soft I asked if they were worried a kid would
tunnel his way out with a spoon. They said they were putting mesh and
stucco over it on both sides and hoping the little *******s didn't
figure out it was not solid concrete.
They built a single family up the street that was foam panels encased
in sheet steel. It was put together with a screw gun and angle.

On 12/26/2016 6:05 PM, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 22:59:23 -0000, Taxpayer wrote:

On 12/26/2016 5:07 PM, James Wilkinson Sword wrote:
On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 16:41:56 -0000, bob haller wrote:

If the slab most common in a home has post tensioned cables inside, thats a severe safety issue. my brother had this come up in his home, a below slab water line broke,

he had to have his slab x rayed to avoid hitting any cables.

i doubt this is a issue for the OP but might be a issue for someone else

Why are some houses made with a foundation throughout? Here they're just foundation under the walls. The floor is wooden, 2 feet above the ground, which means you can get under easily to run cables and pipes.

Here the minimum code is 1 meter crawl space, crawl space floor must be 101.6 mm concrete, exterior footings must be sitting on undisturbed soil below frost line.

What is the point of the concrete where there isn't a wall on it? You don't need it in the middle of the house.

And 1 metre?! You must have a lot of steps to get into your house.


Only an idiot would build/buy a house on a slab in this climate.

For this area, a 10% slope away from the house is desirable for proper drainage. Finish floor of house is usually 2 steps above grade.

And a concrete floor in the crawl space controls moisture and keeps critters out. Also makes it easier to work on electrical, plumbing and HVAC.

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 21:21:39 -0500, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 12/26/2016 9:12 PM, wrote:

If you are stuccoing, ICF is the way to go. Great in Hurricaine
country too.


ICF (insulating concrete forms) are good everywhere. Energy savings,
termite proof, quiet, etc. Good in tornado area too. They can be
finished in any ways, not just stucco.
http://www.standardicf.net/
www.integraspec.com
I know, there is quite a bit of it used up here - just saying ICF
and Stucco are MADE for each other. We don't see a lot of stucco, but
we are seeing a lot more with ICF taking hold.

On Mon, 26 Dec 2016 17:17:14 -0800 (PST), bob haller
wrote:

MY BROTHER LIVES IN PHOENIX AZ nearly no homes have basements or crawl space. slab constuction is the norm...

probably fewer issues with bugs, phoenix has a big problem with floods. they dont happen often but are nasty when they occur.......

my dads new home has water retention ponds thru the neighborhood.

Almost no basements in southern Nevada, but there are some (few).
Worked at one site that built monolithic poured walls, that allowed
walk out access to the pool area and back yard area. It was basically
a complete living area, bedrooms, bath , theater and entertainment for
the kids. A place to send the brats.

Flash floods are bad here in the desert with just a few inches of
rain. Hard pan soil is dug out and land built higher, compacted again
for the "100 year flood", so the government says :-)

Nevada is not a salt water sea anymore.

On Sun, 25 Dec 2016 16:41:56 -0000, bob haller wrote:

If the slab most common in a home has post tensioned cables inside, thats a severe safety issue. my brother had this come up in his home, a below slab water line broke,

he had to have his slab x rayed to avoid hitting any cables.

i doubt this is a issue for the OP but might be a issue for someone else

Insanity, covering things like water pipes with slab. I'm glad I have a wood floor with a gap.

--
I consider exercise vulgar, it makes people smell. -- Alec Yuill Thornton