We have lived in this house 8-10 years. The natural gas water heater is the
same as when we moved in. One major benefit it has is it is pilot-light
enabled -- it doesn't require electricity. I have taken many hot showers by
candle light when the power has been off 2+ days here in Maryland USA.

What I DON'T want to have happen is come home one day to a flood of water
coming out of the utility room from the water heater after a catastrophic
failure.

Is it a "normal, good" practice to replace a water heater after a certain #
of years, whether or not it is still working fine?

Thanks.

-- Mark

Then be on the lookout for a leak. It should start out small.
That will be the time to replace it.

Mark Jerde wrote in message
...
We have lived in this house 8-10 years. The natural gas water heater is
the
same as when we moved in. One major benefit it has is it is pilot-light
enabled -- it doesn't require electricity. I have taken many hot showers
by
candle light when the power has been off 2+ days here in Maryland USA.

What I DON'T want to have happen is come home one day to a flood of water
coming out of the utility room from the water heater after a catastrophic
failure.

Is it a "normal, good" practice to replace a water heater after a certain
#
of years, whether or not it is still working fine?

Thanks.

-- Mark

Somewhere on the nameplate it should tell what year it was made.

It would be unusual to replace a heater simply because it is old; but if you
have the cash for it and want to avoid a problem, then there is no reason
not to.
I just replaced a 15 yo heater because the T&P valve had gone bad and I
figured it's time was about up.

My rule of thumb is keep it unless it isn't functioning. Remember that the
design of gas water heaters has changed now and they're more expensive.
Federal Law now requires a sealed combustion chamber as part of the design.


"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
We have lived in this house 8-10 years. The natural gas water heater is
the
same as when we moved in. One major benefit it has is it is pilot-light
enabled -- it doesn't require electricity. I have taken many hot showers
by
candle light when the power has been off 2+ days here in Maryland USA.

What I DON'T want to have happen is come home one day to a flood of water
coming out of the utility room from the water heater after a catastrophic
failure.

Is it a "normal, good" practice to replace a water heater after a certain
#
of years, whether or not it is still working fine?

Thanks.

-- Mark

Don't worry about losing your shower in the dark. Unlike furnaces, boilers
and stoves,
standard gas water heaters still come with pilot lights.
--
Peace,
BobJ

("Mike Bittel" wrote in message
...
My rule of thumb is keep it unless it isn't functioning. Remember that
the
design of gas water heaters has changed now and they're more expensive.
Federal Law now requires a sealed combustion chamber as part of the
design.


"Mark Jerde" wrote in message
...
We have lived in this house 8-10 years. The natural gas water heater is
the
same as when we moved in. One major benefit it has is it is pilot-light
enabled -- it doesn't require electricity. I have taken many hot
showers
by
candle light when the power has been off 2+ days here in Maryland USA.

What I DON'T want to have happen is come home one day to a flood of
water
coming out of the utility room from the water heater after a
catastrophic
failure.

Is it a "normal, good" practice to replace a water heater after a
certain
#
of years, whether or not it is still working fine?

Thanks.

-- Mark

Thanks, everyone. For now I'll keep inspecting the heater.

-- Mark

In article ,
"Mark Jerde" wrote:

We have lived in this house 8-10 years. The natural gas water heater is the
same as when we moved in. One major benefit it has is it is pilot-light
enabled -- it doesn't require electricity. I have taken many hot showers by
candle light when the power has been off 2+ days here in Maryland USA.

What I DON'T want to have happen is come home one day to a flood of water
coming out of the utility room from the water heater after a catastrophic
failure.

Is it a "normal, good" practice to replace a water heater after a certain #
of years, whether or not it is still working fine?

Thanks.

-- Mark



I don't think it is normal practice, but that is exactly what I'm about
to do now. My last hot water heater lasted 8 years, then one day I woke
up and my basement was flooded. It's now 8 years later, and I don't
want to go throught that mess again.

Biggest reason for being worth it:
Since lots of stuff was ruined, we called the insurance company who paid
the claim. My deductible was almost as much as a water heater would
cost, plus after they paid, they raised my rates, plus they only pay for
the damage. You still have to pay for a new water heater.

Overall, it's cheaper to replace every so many years. You decide when
it's convenient to replace, instead of having to replace it within a few
hours after it bursts, and dedicating the next few days to cleanup.

Of course, some people's water heaters just fail, don't bust and flood a
room, and last 15+ years, but with the quality of local water, it
differs for each person. I will say this, and that on my street where
all the houses were built within 8 months of each other, I saw a lot of
AO Smith (we all had these) water heaters left for trash pickup around
the same time. All our water heaters lasted about the same time.

Best of luck to you.

Steve

"Michael Baugh" wrote in message
.. .
Then be on the lookout for a leak. It should start out small.
That will be the time to replace it.

With all due respect, I wouldn't count on this.

Unfortunately, water heaters sometimes fail catastrophically with no
warning. One of my neighbors across the street came home after a 3 hour
Xmas shopping trip to find the first floor of his house under 2 inches of
water due to the sudden failure of his water heater. It was a real drag
because he had just cashed out most of his equity in a refi to do about $50K
of refurbs and updates to his home (new hardwood flooring...the whole bit).
His homeowner's insurance covered the damage (less his $1500.00 deductible),
but he was expecting to have a lot of family come and stay over for the
holidays. Needless to say, this put a damper (no pun intended) on his
Christmas. He was not a happy camper.

I live in South Texas and we have a problem with lime and other hard water
deposits. As a result, water heaters don't last very long here, unless you
really stay on top of keeping them flushed and the anode(s) replaced as
needed.

I don't know the average life span of a water heater in Maryland. Your
water heater may be just fine, or it may be a ticking time bomb. IMHO, if
you have *any* doubts about it's condition, just replace it. The cost will
most likely be less than the deductible on your homeowner's policy - not to
mention the peace of mind of having dealt with it *before* it turned into an
emergency.

FYI, here's one of my favorite sites regarding water heaters. Lots of good
info here.

http://www.waterheaterrescue.com/

I'm not a conservation expert here, but I believe the reason is that pilot
lights are the only way you can keep the hot water going if the power goes
out. Plus the pilot light's heat isn't entirely wasted, it is positioned so
it does help heat the tank.

With a stove, you can always manually light at least the burners if the
power is out. And a hydronic boiler (circulator pump) and furnace
(ventilator fan) requires electricity in any case to operate, not to mention
all the sophisticated control equipment on any boiler (including steam) or
furnace. So a pilot light would be useless in a blackout. .
--
Peace,
BobJ

"Heathcliff Bambino" wrote in message
om...
"Marilyn and Bob" wrote in message
...
Don't worry about losing your shower in the dark. Unlike furnaces,
boilers
and stoves,
standard gas water heaters still come with pilot lights.
--
Peace,
BobJ

Yeah, why is that? What's different about water heaters?

-- Ken (an energy-conservation-minded guy, who nonetheless longs for
the good old days of pilot lights)

I replaced a good tank water heater with a gas Aquastar tankless and
kept the old unit inline as a tempering tank, with bypass valves
incase it blows. My savings are maybe 80 % also because I had a
waistfull Electric unit, and travel alot. Only in USA are big tanks
used there are cheaper ways to heat water and people are only now
learning about tankless

m Ransley wrote:
I replaced a good tank water heater with a gas Aquastar tankless and
kept the old unit inline as a tempering tank, with bypass valves
incase it blows. My savings are maybe 80 % also because I had a
waistfull Electric unit, and travel alot. Only in USA are big tanks
used there are cheaper ways to heat water and people are only now
learning about tankless

Thanks. Any good links about tankless water heaters?
Yes, I'll start with www.google.com. g

-- Mark

"Mark Jerde" wrote in message ...
Thanks, everyone. For now I'll keep inspecting the heater.

-- Mark

For a bit more security, buy a water alarm (~$10 at HD) and put it
under the tank. Won't help if you're away, but if you're home you'll
know before the puddle becomes a lake. I have one by my washer and one
under the water heater.

S

HD and menards sell Aquastar and the large aquastar is made by Takagi
, Which has a real impressive line of up to 188000 btu tankless with
auto control to apx 30000 btu

Makes sense. Just to put things in perspective and create
more anxiety, consider the lowly clothes washer hose. I
have never seen an exploding or spraying water tank, but I
have seen a spraying clothes washer hose. If you/wife are
in the habit of never turning the valves off when you are
not washing, you might start and certainly you need to turn
them off any time you are away for an extended period. If
you don't, they will probably be corroded and you might not
be able to turn the all the way off. Damage from a failed
hose is way more likely than damage from a failed water
heater.

Mark Jerde wrote:

Thanks, everyone. For now I'll keep inspecting the heater.

-- Mark

George E. Cawthon wrote:
Makes sense. Just to put things in perspective and create
more anxiety, consider the lowly clothes washer hose. I
have never seen an exploding or spraying water tank, but I
have seen a spraying clothes washer hose. If you/wife are
in the habit of never turning the valves off when you are
not washing, you might start and certainly you need to turn
them off any time you are away for an extended period. If
you don't, they will probably be corroded and you might not
be able to turn the all the way off. Damage from a failed
hose is way more likely than damage from a failed water
heater.

Thanks for reminding me. I didn't mention that the inlet valve to the water
heater *cannot* be turned off. With two teens in the house several times I
tried to shut off the hot water to motivate them to get out of the shower.
eg I screwed the valve both ways multiple times, but it won't close and
shut off the water. (I have broken a valve by trying too hard.)

So I'll watch for water heater leaks AND Lowe's/Home Despot install sales.
g

-- Mark

In article ,
"Mark Jerde" wrote:

George E. Cawthon wrote:
Makes sense. Just to put things in perspective and create
more anxiety, consider the lowly clothes washer hose. I
have never seen an exploding or spraying water tank, but I
have seen a spraying clothes washer hose. If you/wife are
in the habit of never turning the valves off when you are
not washing, you might start and certainly you need to turn
them off any time you are away for an extended period. If
you don't, they will probably be corroded and you might not
be able to turn the all the way off. Damage from a failed
hose is way more likely than damage from a failed water
heater.

Thanks for reminding me. I didn't mention that the inlet valve to the water
heater *cannot* be turned off. With two teens in the house several times I
tried to shut off the hot water to motivate them to get out of the shower.
eg I screwed the valve both ways multiple times, but it won't close and
shut off the water. (I have broken a valve by trying too hard.)

So I'll watch for water heater leaks AND Lowe's/Home Despot install sales.
g

-- Mark



It just so happens that Lowes has a $99 install for hot water heaters,
after rebate, and this deal ends on Jan 18th. I just came from my local
Home Depot in NJ, and they get $250 for a gas wh install.

Steve

Steve wrote:

It just so happens that Lowes has a $99 install for hot water heaters,
after rebate, and this deal ends on Jan 18th. I just came from my
local
Home Depot in NJ, and they get $250 for a gas wh install.

Thanks so much for posting. With the stuck valve and 10+/- years of the
water heater's life while we have lived here, I'm getting quite concerned
for its long-term health. I really don't want to come home to water running
out the garage. Replacement (especially at sale price g) is starting to
make more and more sense.

-- Mark

On Fri, 16 Jan 2004 08:15:59 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
wrote:

Steve wrote:

It just so happens that Lowes has a $99 install for hot water heaters,
after rebate, and this deal ends on Jan 18th. I just came from my
local
Home Depot in NJ, and they get $250 for a gas wh install.

Thanks so much for posting. With the stuck valve and 10+/- years of the
water heater's life while we have lived here, I'm getting quite concerned
for its long-term health. I really don't want to come home to water running
out the garage. Replacement (especially at sale price g) is starting to
make more and more sense.

-- Mark



To get the $99 install you must purchase a 9, 12 or lifetime heater.
Any opinions on the Whirlpool line of heaters? The 9 year Whirlpool
is going for $278.

Thanks...Bob

In article ,
BobS wrote:

On Fri, 16 Jan 2004 08:15:59 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
wrote:

Steve wrote:

It just so happens that Lowes has a $99 install for hot water heaters,
after rebate, and this deal ends on Jan 18th. I just came from my
local
Home Depot in NJ, and they get $250 for a gas wh install.

Thanks so much for posting. With the stuck valve and 10+/- years of the
water heater's life while we have lived here, I'm getting quite concerned
for its long-term health. I really don't want to come home to water running
out the garage. Replacement (especially at sale price g) is starting to
make more and more sense.

-- Mark



To get the $99 install you must purchase a 9, 12 or lifetime heater.
Any opinions on the Whirlpool line of heaters? The 9 year Whirlpool
is going for $278.

Thanks...Bob

I just arranged to have the 9 year gas 40 gallon Whirlpool hot water
heater installed early next week, so I could get that $99 install after
rebate. It comes out to $249 for an install, which is what Home Depot
charges as well, then you get $150 rebate in 6-8 weeks.

After some looking around, the same WH at home Depot in a GE Brand is
over $20 more, plus the full install price. Sears charges the same
thing as Home Depot for their Hot Water Heater, and I didn't inquire
about an install price, and they didn't mention any install discount or
rebate, although they have a rebate on delivery. Yes, delivery of the
water heater gets a rebate, but not an install, at Sears.

In my searching around for experiences with this Whirlpool, as well as
the others, I found Pros and Cons, for Sears, Whirlpool and GE, as well
as the AO Smith I have now. It appears to be a hit or miss situation
like purchasing any major appliance. Buy it, and hope for the best.


Steve

The important thing is to check your anode rod after about a year and
see if it needs replacement. If so replace it. If it will go two years
then replace it then. This will extend the life of your water heater
more than anything else you can do. When you shut it down to check the
anode drain out the crud in the bottom of the water heater also.

RB

Steve wrote:
In article ,
BobS wrote:


On Fri, 16 Jan 2004 08:15:59 GMT, "Mark Jerde"
wrote:


Steve wrote:


It just so happens that Lowes has a $99 install for hot water heaters,
after rebate, and this deal ends on Jan 18th. I just came from my
local
Home Depot in NJ, and they get $250 for a gas wh install.

Thanks so much for posting. With the stuck valve and 10+/- years of the
water heater's life while we have lived here, I'm getting quite concerned
for its long-term health. I really don't want to come home to water running
out the garage. Replacement (especially at sale price g) is starting to
make more and more sense.

-- Mark



To get the $99 install you must purchase a 9, 12 or lifetime heater.
Any opinions on the Whirlpool line of heaters? The 9 year Whirlpool
is going for $278.

Thanks...Bob


I just arranged to have the 9 year gas 40 gallon Whirlpool hot water
heater installed early next week, so I could get that $99 install after
rebate. It comes out to $249 for an install, which is what Home Depot
charges as well, then you get $150 rebate in 6-8 weeks.

After some looking around, the same WH at home Depot in a GE Brand is
over $20 more, plus the full install price. Sears charges the same
thing as Home Depot for their Hot Water Heater, and I didn't inquire
about an install price, and they didn't mention any install discount or
rebate, although they have a rebate on delivery. Yes, delivery of the
water heater gets a rebate, but not an install, at Sears.

In my searching around for experiences with this Whirlpool, as well as
the others, I found Pros and Cons, for Sears, Whirlpool and GE, as well
as the AO Smith I have now. It appears to be a hit or miss situation
like purchasing any major appliance. Buy it, and hope for the best.


Steve

Sounds like good advice. Can you tell us what brand of water heater
you ended up buying? I am currently doing some research before replacing
my 9 year old water heater. I agree that from what I have learned so
far it seems that replacing the anode periodically is the best way to
make them last longer. However, I have seen some which makes this
maintenance harder by putting the anode in the pipes. Also, it seems
the magnesium rod is preferable to the aluminum type. I also will
try to get the plumber to install a ball valve (brass) drain to replace
whatever comes on a new one. I have found that the washers on the other
drain valves don't hold up over the years and I have had to screw a
brass cap over the drain to keep it from leaking.

Would be interested in what brand water heater you installed since it
apparently has an anode rod which can be replaced. Thanks.

(Derek Toeppen) wrote in message . com...
"Mark Jerde" wrote in message . ..

Opinions run the full spectrum. I work with a guy that believes
he should sell the house before the water heater needs replacement.
Richard Trethewey (the mechanical guy from this old house)
wrote in one of his books that the idea a heater heater should
only last 10 years is incorrect. He believes if you do three things
it will last 30 or more years. One, replace the anode every few years.
Two, flush it every 6 months to remove sediment. Three, change the cold
water dip tube (input tube) to one with a bend in it so it stirs the
sediment and reduces its build up.
The manual that came with my new heater suggested removing and
inspecting the anode every 3 years. And replace if it is more than
50% gone. Plus, flush the tank every 6 months.
The heater that came with my house lasted 12 years. The seconded
lasted 8. Go figure. I never replaced the anode on the second tank
because I could not find a plumbing store that new what an anode was.
I still have the old water heater and plan to check the anode before
I junk it. Bet it is completely gone. I did flush it once a year. Never
saw any noticable sediment.
Both heaters started with a slow leak. The first one I found within
a few days of when it started. The leak did not spread far. The second
one I think was leaking for a week or more. I noticed it when my stocking
foot got wet when I entered a room. Should have investigated that musty
smell when I first noticed it!
Its up to you. I am not sure I would replace one that is not leaking.
But my new one has a pan under it.

(Bern M) wrote in message . com...

I installed a Whirlpool. The Whirlpool is made by American Water
Heater. They have a web page so run a search on the American Water
Heater name.

But, I have to say I am having seconded thoughts about the unit.
My complains maybe common to all water heaters. But until I sort
through them I am a little uncomfortable recommending them.

The two problems are,
1. The unit is degraded 4% per 1K feet in altitude. Thus, at
6500 feet I ended up with a 50 gal unit with 30gal/hr recovery rate
when the unit is specified at 40gal/hr. It maybe all water heaters
do this. Furnances do not.
2. The burner is the noisiest I have ever owned. The low frequency
rumble can be heard every where in the house. This maybe a result of
the new flame control burner laws on the books.

Good luck

Sounds like good advice. Can you tell us what brand of water heater
you ended up buying? I am currently doing some research before replacing
my 9 year old water heater. I agree that from what I have learned so
far it seems that replacing the anode periodically is the best way to
make them last longer. However, I have seen some which makes this
maintenance harder by putting the anode in the pipes. Also, it seems
the magnesium rod is preferable to the aluminum type. I also will
try to get the plumber to install a ball valve (brass) drain to replace
whatever comes on a new one. I have found that the washers on the other
drain valves don't hold up over the years and I have had to screw a
brass cap over the drain to keep it from leaking.

Would be interested in what brand water heater you installed since it
apparently has an anode rod which can be replaced. Thanks.

(Derek Toeppen) wrote in message . com...
"Mark Jerde" wrote in message . ..

Opinions run the full spectrum. I work with a guy that believes
he should sell the house before the water heater needs replacement.
Richard Trethewey (the mechanical guy from this old house)
wrote in one of his books that the idea a heater heater should
only last 10 years is incorrect. He believes if you do three things
it will last 30 or more years. One, replace the anode every few years.
Two, flush it every 6 months to remove sediment. Three, change the cold
water dip tube (input tube) to one with a bend in it so it stirs the
sediment and reduces its build up.
The manual that came with my new heater suggested removing and
inspecting the anode every 3 years. And replace if it is more than
50% gone. Plus, flush the tank every 6 months.
The heater that came with my house lasted 12 years. The seconded
lasted 8. Go figure. I never replaced the anode on the second tank
because I could not find a plumbing store that new what an anode was.
I still have the old water heater and plan to check the anode before
I junk it. Bet it is completely gone. I did flush it once a year. Never
saw any noticable sediment.
Both heaters started with a slow leak. The first one I found within
a few days of when it started. The leak did not spread far. The second
one I think was leaking for a week or more. I noticed it when my stocking
foot got wet when I entered a room. Should have investigated that musty
smell when I first noticed it!
Its up to you. I am not sure I would replace one that is not leaking.
But my new one has a pan under it.

Thanks for the reply. I have a spec sheet from Lowe's on the Whirlpool
water heaters and I notice that that they specify certain models for
high altitude locations. I was wondering if perhaps you needed one of
these models if, in fact, your model was not a 'high altitude' model.
I am currently seriously considering the Lochinvar brand which my plumber
recommends. It has a large magnesium anode rod and a brass drain valve,
but the anode rod is in the water pipe, which I'm not too crazy about.
In any case, good luck with yours.

(Derek Toeppen) wrote in message . com...
(Bern M) wrote in message . com...

I installed a Whirlpool. The Whirlpool is made by American Water
Heater. They have a web page so run a search on the American Water
Heater name.

But, I have to say I am having seconded thoughts about the unit.
My complains maybe common to all water heaters. But until I sort
through them I am a little uncomfortable recommending them.

The two problems are,
1. The unit is degraded 4% per 1K feet in altitude. Thus, at
6500 feet I ended up with a 50 gal unit with 30gal/hr recovery rate
when the unit is specified at 40gal/hr. It maybe all water heaters
do this. Furnances do not.
2. The burner is the noisiest I have ever owned. The low frequency
rumble can be heard every where in the house. This maybe a result of
the new flame control burner laws on the books.

Good luck

Sounds like good advice. Can you tell us what brand of water heater
you ended up buying? I am currently doing some research before replacing
my 9 year old water heater. I agree that from what I have learned so
far it seems that replacing the anode periodically is the best way to
make them last longer. However, I have seen some which makes this
maintenance harder by putting the anode in the pipes. Also, it seems
the magnesium rod is preferable to the aluminum type. I also will
try to get the plumber to install a ball valve (brass) drain to replace
whatever comes on a new one. I have found that the washers on the other
drain valves don't hold up over the years and I have had to screw a
brass cap over the drain to keep it from leaking.

Would be interested in what brand water heater you installed since it
apparently has an anode rod which can be replaced. Thanks.

In article ,
(Derek Toeppen) wrote:

(Bern M) wrote in message
. com...

I installed a Whirlpool. The Whirlpool is made by American Water
Heater. They have a web page so run a search on the American Water
Heater name.

But, I have to say I am having seconded thoughts about the unit.
My complains maybe common to all water heaters. But until I sort
through them I am a little uncomfortable recommending them.

The two problems are,
1. The unit is degraded 4% per 1K feet in altitude. Thus, at
6500 feet I ended up with a 50 gal unit with 30gal/hr recovery rate
when the unit is specified at 40gal/hr. It maybe all water heaters
do this. Furnances do not.
2. The burner is the noisiest I have ever owned. The low frequency
rumble can be heard every where in the house. This maybe a result of
the new flame control burner laws on the books.

Good luck



I just installed a Whirlpool Gas Hot Water Heater 2 days ago.

I don't have the noise you have, and it sounds about the same as any
water heater I've owned, and I'm now on my 3rd in this house.

Everyone in the house thinks the water is hotter, even though the
thermostat on the water heater is set lower than the recommended setting.

I hve no complaints with it. I just got it from Lowe's and they had a
$99 installation, so it's price was about $150 less than Home Depot's or
Sears for the same size/type water heater.

All in all, I'm very satisfied. (As I said, it's only been 2 days, but
no complaints so far.)

Steve

Steve wrote in message ...

The recommeded setting is 120 degrees. If set there, the water
temperature measures within a few degrees of 120. I increased
my setting to the 130 mark. At that setting, the temperature measures
within a few degrees of 130. That is not the issue. The issue is how
fast the water temperature recovers after being drawn down.
If the input to the heater is 25% lower at altitude, then the
recovery rate will also be 25% lower at altitude. Thus, 30 gal/hr
rather than 40 gal/hr. If all heaters are de-rated at altitude,
its not a big deal. It means the one I have before was only
recovering at 30 gal/hr (because it was also a 40,000btu and
40gal/hr unit) and I was satisfied with that rate.
What I can not handle is American Water Heaters response to my
question. Which is (and I am quoting)"The recovery rate will be the same
40 gal/hr but will be slower with the 20% loss at a high altitude".
Recovery rate is a time related unit of measure. If its slower,
its not 40gal/hr! Unless they have also de-rate time at altitude.
Maybe they do know something I don't.



In article ,
(Derek Toeppen) wrote:

(Bern M) wrote in message
. com...

I installed a Whirlpool. The Whirlpool is made by American Water
Heater. They have a web page so run a search on the American Water
Heater name.

But, I have to say I am having seconded thoughts about the unit.
My complains maybe common to all water heaters. But until I sort
through them I am a little uncomfortable recommending them.

The two problems are,
1. The unit is degraded 4% per 1K feet in altitude. Thus, at
6500 feet I ended up with a 50 gal unit with 30gal/hr recovery rate
when the unit is specified at 40gal/hr. It maybe all water heaters
do this. Furnances do not.
2. The burner is the noisiest I have ever owned. The low frequency
rumble can be heard every where in the house. This maybe a result of
the new flame control burner laws on the books.

Good luck



I just installed a Whirlpool Gas Hot Water Heater 2 days ago.

I don't have the noise you have, and it sounds about the same as any
water heater I've owned, and I'm now on my 3rd in this house.

Everyone in the house thinks the water is hotter, even though the
thermostat on the water heater is set lower than the recommended setting.

I hve no complaints with it. I just got it from Lowe's and they had a
$99 installation, so it's price was about $150 less than Home Depot's or
Sears for the same size/type water heater.

All in all, I'm very satisfied. (As I said, it's only been 2 days, but
no complaints so far.)

Steve

(Bern M) wrote in message . com...

Good point. My heater was labelled as a high altitude unit.
Further, the manufacture confirmed from the serial number the unit
is a high altitude unit.
I believe any reasonable person would take this to mean the unit
has been manufactured to meet specification at high altitude. Which
is what I thought when I saw the labelling.
But that does not seem to be the case. Even the units manfuctured
for high altitude are de-rated at altitude.




Thanks for the reply. I have a spec sheet from Lowe's on the Whirlpool
water heaters and I notice that that they specify certain models for
high altitude locations. I was wondering if perhaps you needed one of
these models if, in fact, your model was not a 'high altitude' model.
I am currently seriously considering the Lochinvar brand which my plumber
recommends. It has a large magnesium anode rod and a brass drain valve,
but the anode rod is in the water pipe, which I'm not too crazy about.
In any case, good luck with yours.

(Derek Toeppen) wrote in message . com...
(Bern M) wrote in message . com...

I installed a Whirlpool. The Whirlpool is made by American Water
Heater. They have a web page so run a search on the American Water
Heater name.

But, I have to say I am having seconded thoughts about the unit.
My complains maybe common to all water heaters. But until I sort
through them I am a little uncomfortable recommending them.

The two problems are,
1. The unit is degraded 4% per 1K feet in altitude. Thus, at
6500 feet I ended up with a 50 gal unit with 30gal/hr recovery rate
when the unit is specified at 40gal/hr. It maybe all water heaters
do this. Furnances do not.
2. The burner is the noisiest I have ever owned. The low frequency
rumble can be heard every where in the house. This maybe a result of
the new flame control burner laws on the books.

Good luck

Sounds like good advice. Can you tell us what brand of water heater
you ended up buying? I am currently doing some research before replacing
my 9 year old water heater. I agree that from what I have learned so
far it seems that replacing the anode periodically is the best way to
make them last longer. However, I have seen some which makes this
maintenance harder by putting the anode in the pipes. Also, it seems
the magnesium rod is preferable to the aluminum type. I also will
try to get the plumber to install a ball valve (brass) drain to replace
whatever comes on a new one. I have found that the washers on the other
drain valves don't hold up over the years and I have had to screw a
brass cap over the drain to keep it from leaking.

Would be interested in what brand water heater you installed since it
apparently has an anode rod which can be replaced. Thanks.