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#1
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
In preparation for house paint (probably this Summer/Fall),
I'm trying to decide what to do with the porches. Exterior of each is cheap, painted paneling. Rest of house is stucco over block. I could stucco both but that seems pretty boring. Another option is tongue and groove planks -- possibly set at a 45 to the floor (for a "swept" look). Natural stain. Yet another option (my favorite) is a fitted stone facade. But, the sort where there are no grout lines -- just very tightly fitted stones (the stones having shapes similar to *bricks* -- of various sizes). I.e., the wall feels almost flat -- but rough. They are not structural -- perhaps just a couple of inches thick (front to back) and no stone/brick is more than an inch or two "tall". A cursory look at these sorts of walls (usually on commercial establishments, not residences) *suggests* that they are individual stones and someone just was incredibly patient/lucky to manage to ALWAYS find "just the right stone" for the odd shape that needed to be filled. I'm pretty sure I don't believe that! I suspect they are prefabbed in some way (like the little 1" tiles you encounter on bathroom floors -- sold in 12x12" SHEETS (so you don't have to set each individual tile!). But, the arrangement of "cracks"/edges is so busy that it's virtually impossible to *see* an underlying pattern! Can anyone confirm that they are, in fact, sold as "assemblies"? That I don't have to budget weeks of time to preisely fitting a gazillion little rectangular blocks? And, as there appears to be no mortar (between "courses"), how they are attached to the structure? |
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#2
Posted to alt.home.repair
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/16/2016 5:58 PM, Don Y wrote:
In preparation for house paint (probably this Summer/Fall), I'm trying to decide what to do with the porches. Exterior of each is cheap, painted paneling. Rest of house is stucco over block. I could stucco both but that seems pretty boring. Another option is tongue and groove planks -- possibly set at a 45 to the floor (for a "swept" look). Natural stain. Yet another option (my favorite) is a fitted stone facade. But, the sort where there are no grout lines -- just very tightly fitted stones (the stones having shapes similar to *bricks* -- of various sizes). I.e., the wall feels almost flat -- but rough. They are not structural -- perhaps just a couple of inches thick (front to back) and no stone/brick is more than an inch or two "tall". A cursory look at these sorts of walls (usually on commercial establishments, not residences) *suggests* that they are individual stones and someone just was incredibly patient/lucky to manage to ALWAYS find "just the right stone" for the odd shape that needed to be filled. I'm pretty sure I don't believe that! I suspect they are prefabbed in some way (like the little 1" tiles you encounter on bathroom floors -- sold in 12x12" SHEETS (so you don't have to set each individual tile!). But, the arrangement of "cracks"/edges is so busy that it's virtually impossible to *see* an underlying pattern! Can anyone confirm that they are, in fact, sold as "assemblies"? That I don't have to budget weeks of time to preisely fitting a gazillion little rectangular blocks? And, as there appears to be no mortar (between "courses"), how they are attached to the structure? Are you talking about stacked stone? I'm not really clear what you're referring to. Got a link or some picture? I like the idea of the planks. That sounds really pretty. |
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#3
Posted to alt.home.repair
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 16:58:46 -0700, Don Y
wrote: In preparation for house paint (probably this Summer/Fall), I'm trying to decide what to do with the porches. Exterior of each is cheap, painted paneling. Rest of house is stucco over block. I could stucco both but that seems pretty boring. Another option is tongue and groove planks -- possibly set at a 45 to the floor (for a "swept" look). Natural stain. Yet another option (my favorite) is a fitted stone facade. But, the sort where there are no grout lines -- just very tightly fitted stones (the stones having shapes similar to *bricks* -- of various sizes). I.e., the wall feels almost flat -- but rough. They are not structural -- perhaps just a couple of inches thick (front to back) and no stone/brick is more than an inch or two "tall". A cursory look at these sorts of walls (usually on commercial establishments, not residences) *suggests* that they are individual stones and someone just was incredibly patient/lucky to manage to ALWAYS find "just the right stone" for the odd shape that needed to be filled. I'm pretty sure I don't believe that! I suspect they are prefabbed in some way (like the little 1" tiles you encounter on bathroom floors -- sold in 12x12" SHEETS (so you don't have to set each individual tile!). But, the arrangement of "cracks"/edges is so busy that it's virtually impossible to *see* an underlying pattern! Can anyone confirm that they are, in fact, sold as "assemblies"? That I don't have to budget weeks of time to preisely fitting a gazillion little rectangular blocks? And, as there appears to be no mortar (between "courses"), how they are attached to the structure? You have natural stone like this http://www.nsvi.com/ You also have man made products like this http://www.eldoradostone.com/ If you are somewhat far away you can use the Eldorado stuff but up close you want the natural stone. The cultured stone is very regular in height and you just stack them up. The natural stone can be diamond cut or split. Diamond cut is very regular too. The split stone looks better but there is a lot of hand fitting. We made an entertainment center, electric fire place etc with the split NVSI stone and I thought it came out well but doing the puzzle takes a little time. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet/Our...s/image010.jpg This is mostly done in this picture but I had not finished the wood trim, the kicks and the far panel. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015.jpg All of the panels open and the whole thing is on wheels. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015%20open.jpg You put down expanded metal stucco lath, mortar it and stick on the stone like you would do tile. I like "flex" mortar because it really sticks. Then use a wet tooth brush to remove any mortar that squeezes out. That usually means you used too much mortar. |
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#4
Posted to alt.home.repair
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
Don Y wrote:
In preparation for house paint (probably this Summer/Fall), I'm trying to decide what to do with the porches. Exterior of each is cheap, painted paneling. Rest of house is stucco over block. I could stucco both but that seems pretty boring. Another option is tongue and groove planks -- possibly set at a 45 to the floor (for a "swept" look). Natural stain. Yet another option (my favorite) is a fitted stone facade. But, the sort where there are no grout lines -- just very tightly fitted stones (the stones having shapes similar to *bricks* -- of various sizes). I.e., the wall feels almost flat -- but rough. They are not structural -- perhaps just a couple of inches thick (front to back) and no stone/brick is more than an inch or two "tall". A cursory look at these sorts of walls (usually on commercial establishments, not residences) *suggests* that they are individual stones and someone just was incredibly patient/lucky to manage to ALWAYS find "just the right stone" for the odd shape that needed to be filled. I'm pretty sure I don't believe that! I suspect they are prefabbed in some way (like the little 1" tiles you encounter on bathroom floors -- sold in 12x12" SHEETS (so you don't have to set each individual tile!). But, the arrangement of "cracks"/edges is so busy that it's virtually impossible to *see* an underlying pattern! Can anyone confirm that they are, in fact, sold as "assemblies"? That I don't have to budget weeks of time to preisely fitting a gazillion little rectangular blocks? And, as there appears to be no mortar (between "courses"), how they are attached to the structure? What I've seen around here (central Florida) isn't stone, it is concrete molded and colored to look like stone. No reason it couldn't be fabricated in large units but it doesn't look like it. It doesn't look like it because one can find "stones" that are identical in shape and form but different in coloration. I would guess that the mode of attachment is mortar, thinset or otherwise. |
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#6
Posted to alt.home.repair
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 06:44:33 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote: Don Y wrote: In preparation for house paint (probably this Summer/Fall), I'm trying to decide what to do with the porches. Exterior of each is cheap, painted paneling. Rest of house is stucco over block. I could stucco both but that seems pretty boring. Another option is tongue and groove planks -- possibly set at a 45 to the floor (for a "swept" look). Natural stain. Yet another option (my favorite) is a fitted stone facade. But, the sort where there are no grout lines -- just very tightly fitted stones (the stones having shapes similar to *bricks* -- of various sizes). I.e., the wall feels almost flat -- but rough. They are not structural -- perhaps just a couple of inches thick (front to back) and no stone/brick is more than an inch or two "tall". A cursory look at these sorts of walls (usually on commercial establishments, not residences) *suggests* that they are individual stones and someone just was incredibly patient/lucky to manage to ALWAYS find "just the right stone" for the odd shape that needed to be filled. I'm pretty sure I don't believe that! I suspect they are prefabbed in some way (like the little 1" tiles you encounter on bathroom floors -- sold in 12x12" SHEETS (so you don't have to set each individual tile!). But, the arrangement of "cracks"/edges is so busy that it's virtually impossible to *see* an underlying pattern! Can anyone confirm that they are, in fact, sold as "assemblies"? That I don't have to budget weeks of time to preisely fitting a gazillion little rectangular blocks? And, as there appears to be no mortar (between "courses"), how they are attached to the structure? What I've seen around here (central Florida) isn't stone, it is concrete molded and colored to look like stone. No reason it couldn't be fabricated in large units but it doesn't look like it. It doesn't look like it because one can find "stones" that are identical in shape and form but different in coloration. I would guess that the mode of attachment is mortar, thinset or otherwise. I think Eldorodo does make panels but that is the cultured stone, not real stone. It may look OK from across the street but up close you know it isn't real. If you are not doing a wide expanse, I imagine you also get some waste and you are cutting the panels. A diamond blade in a circular saw or a side grinder goes right through it. I got 8 boxes of Eldorodo stacking stone left over from a job and we used them for garden edging. (set in a poured concrete border). I have a lot of stone work here. |
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#7
Posted to alt.home.repair
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 06:52:49 -0600, SeaNymph
wrote: On 2/16/2016 7:37 PM, wrote: On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 16:58:46 -0700, Don Y wrote: In preparation for house paint (probably this Summer/Fall), I'm trying to decide what to do with the porches. Exterior of each is cheap, painted paneling. Rest of house is stucco over block. I could stucco both but that seems pretty boring. Another option is tongue and groove planks -- possibly set at a 45 to the floor (for a "swept" look). Natural stain. Yet another option (my favorite) is a fitted stone facade. But, the sort where there are no grout lines -- just very tightly fitted stones (the stones having shapes similar to *bricks* -- of various sizes). I.e., the wall feels almost flat -- but rough. They are not structural -- perhaps just a couple of inches thick (front to back) and no stone/brick is more than an inch or two "tall". A cursory look at these sorts of walls (usually on commercial establishments, not residences) *suggests* that they are individual stones and someone just was incredibly patient/lucky to manage to ALWAYS find "just the right stone" for the odd shape that needed to be filled. I'm pretty sure I don't believe that! I suspect they are prefabbed in some way (like the little 1" tiles you encounter on bathroom floors -- sold in 12x12" SHEETS (so you don't have to set each individual tile!). But, the arrangement of "cracks"/edges is so busy that it's virtually impossible to *see* an underlying pattern! Can anyone confirm that they are, in fact, sold as "assemblies"? That I don't have to budget weeks of time to preisely fitting a gazillion little rectangular blocks? And, as there appears to be no mortar (between "courses"), how they are attached to the structure? You have natural stone like this http://www.nsvi.com/ You also have man made products like this http://www.eldoradostone.com/ If you are somewhat far away you can use the Eldorado stuff but up close you want the natural stone. The cultured stone is very regular in height and you just stack them up. The natural stone can be diamond cut or split. Diamond cut is very regular too. The split stone looks better but there is a lot of hand fitting. We made an entertainment center, electric fire place etc with the split NVSI stone and I thought it came out well but doing the puzzle takes a little time. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet/Our...s/image010.jpg This is mostly done in this picture but I had not finished the wood trim, the kicks and the far panel. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015.jpg All of the panels open and the whole thing is on wheels. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015%20open.jpg You put down expanded metal stucco lath, mortar it and stick on the stone like you would do tile. I like "flex" mortar because it really sticks. Then use a wet tooth brush to remove any mortar that squeezes out. That usually means you used too much mortar. Most of those photos are what I think of as stacked stone. And the stone seems to be in small sections because that's the way it is currently coming loose. The wood stove insert downstairs has that stacked stone and I hate it, mainly because it's drab and more because over the years sections of it have come loose. Can't wait to take it off and replace it with something else. If you set it with flex mortar it isn't going to come loose. The cultured stone is pretty drab looking but the natural stone is vibrant and you can hit it with a sealer like stone glamor to really bring up the color if you want. I like it natural. The real advantage of natural stone is it is not going to fade in the sun and it is very stain resistant. The same is not going to be true of the cultured product. There are also lots of kinds of stone. |
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#8
Posted to alt.home.repair
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 20:37:44 -0500
wrote: On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 16:58:46 -0700, Don Y wrote: In preparation for house paint (probably this Summer/Fall), I'm trying to decide what to do with the porches. Exterior of each is cheap, painted paneling. Rest of house is stucco over block. I could stucco both but that seems pretty boring. Another option is tongue and groove planks -- possibly set at a 45 to the floor (for a "swept" look). Natural stain. Yet another option (my favorite) is a fitted stone facade. But, the sort where there are no grout lines -- just very tightly fitted stones (the stones having shapes similar to *bricks* -- of various sizes). I.e., the wall feels almost flat -- but rough. They are not structural -- perhaps just a couple of inches thick (front to back) and no stone/brick is more than an inch or two "tall". A cursory look at these sorts of walls (usually on commercial establishments, not residences) *suggests* that they are individual stones and someone just was incredibly patient/lucky to manage to ALWAYS find "just the right stone" for the odd shape that needed to be filled. I'm pretty sure I don't believe that! I suspect they are prefabbed in some way (like the little 1" tiles you encounter on bathroom floors -- sold in 12x12" SHEETS (so you don't have to set each individual tile!). But, the arrangement of "cracks"/edges is so busy that it's virtually impossible to *see* an underlying pattern! Can anyone confirm that they are, in fact, sold as "assemblies"? That I don't have to budget weeks of time to preisely fitting a gazillion little rectangular blocks? And, as there appears to be no mortar (between "courses"), how they are attached to the structure? You have natural stone like this http://www.nsvi.com/ You also have man made products like this http://www.eldoradostone.com/ If you are somewhat far away you can use the Eldorado stuff but up close you want the natural stone. The cultured stone is very regular in height and you just stack them up. The natural stone can be diamond cut or split. Diamond cut is very regular too. The split stone looks better but there is a lot of hand fitting. We made an entertainment center, electric fire place etc with the split NVSI stone and I thought it came out well but doing the puzzle takes a little time. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet/Our...s/image010.jpg This is mostly done in this picture but I had not finished the wood trim, the kicks and the far panel. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015.jpg All of the panels open and the whole thing is on wheels. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015%20open.jpg You put down expanded metal stucco lath, mortar it and stick on the stone like you would do tile. I like "flex" mortar because it really sticks. Then use a wet tooth brush to remove any mortar that squeezes out. That usually means you used too much mortar. that looks very cool! |
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#9
Posted to alt.home.repair
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 11:32:48 -0500, burfordTjustice
wrote: On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 20:37:44 -0500 wrote: On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 16:58:46 -0700, Don Y wrote: In preparation for house paint (probably this Summer/Fall), I'm trying to decide what to do with the porches. Exterior of each is cheap, painted paneling. Rest of house is stucco over block. I could stucco both but that seems pretty boring. Another option is tongue and groove planks -- possibly set at a 45 to the floor (for a "swept" look). Natural stain. Yet another option (my favorite) is a fitted stone facade. But, the sort where there are no grout lines -- just very tightly fitted stones (the stones having shapes similar to *bricks* -- of various sizes). I.e., the wall feels almost flat -- but rough. They are not structural -- perhaps just a couple of inches thick (front to back) and no stone/brick is more than an inch or two "tall". A cursory look at these sorts of walls (usually on commercial establishments, not residences) *suggests* that they are individual stones and someone just was incredibly patient/lucky to manage to ALWAYS find "just the right stone" for the odd shape that needed to be filled. I'm pretty sure I don't believe that! I suspect they are prefabbed in some way (like the little 1" tiles you encounter on bathroom floors -- sold in 12x12" SHEETS (so you don't have to set each individual tile!). But, the arrangement of "cracks"/edges is so busy that it's virtually impossible to *see* an underlying pattern! Can anyone confirm that they are, in fact, sold as "assemblies"? That I don't have to budget weeks of time to preisely fitting a gazillion little rectangular blocks? And, as there appears to be no mortar (between "courses"), how they are attached to the structure? You have natural stone like this http://www.nsvi.com/ You also have man made products like this http://www.eldoradostone.com/ If you are somewhat far away you can use the Eldorado stuff but up close you want the natural stone. The cultured stone is very regular in height and you just stack them up. The natural stone can be diamond cut or split. Diamond cut is very regular too. The split stone looks better but there is a lot of hand fitting. We made an entertainment center, electric fire place etc with the split NVSI stone and I thought it came out well but doing the puzzle takes a little time. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet/Our...s/image010.jpg This is mostly done in this picture but I had not finished the wood trim, the kicks and the far panel. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015.jpg All of the panels open and the whole thing is on wheels. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015%20open.jpg You put down expanded metal stucco lath, mortar it and stick on the stone like you would do tile. I like "flex" mortar because it really sticks. Then use a wet tooth brush to remove any mortar that squeezes out. That usually means you used too much mortar. that looks very cool! I still have to finish the wood trim. We are looking for more of the "live edge" cypress like we have for the mantel piece over the fire place. The guy we got that one from died. I want to bring that all the way around the waist band. I have the cypress to do the end caps but I want to fit it to the live edge stuff. |
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#10
Posted to alt.home.repair
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/17/2016 10:21 AM, wrote:
On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 06:52:49 -0600, SeaNymph wrote: On 2/16/2016 7:37 PM, wrote: On Tue, 16 Feb 2016 16:58:46 -0700, Don Y wrote: In preparation for house paint (probably this Summer/Fall), I'm trying to decide what to do with the porches. Exterior of each is cheap, painted paneling. Rest of house is stucco over block. I could stucco both but that seems pretty boring. Another option is tongue and groove planks -- possibly set at a 45 to the floor (for a "swept" look). Natural stain. Yet another option (my favorite) is a fitted stone facade. But, the sort where there are no grout lines -- just very tightly fitted stones (the stones having shapes similar to *bricks* -- of various sizes). I.e., the wall feels almost flat -- but rough. They are not structural -- perhaps just a couple of inches thick (front to back) and no stone/brick is more than an inch or two "tall". A cursory look at these sorts of walls (usually on commercial establishments, not residences) *suggests* that they are individual stones and someone just was incredibly patient/lucky to manage to ALWAYS find "just the right stone" for the odd shape that needed to be filled. I'm pretty sure I don't believe that! I suspect they are prefabbed in some way (like the little 1" tiles you encounter on bathroom floors -- sold in 12x12" SHEETS (so you don't have to set each individual tile!). But, the arrangement of "cracks"/edges is so busy that it's virtually impossible to *see* an underlying pattern! Can anyone confirm that they are, in fact, sold as "assemblies"? That I don't have to budget weeks of time to preisely fitting a gazillion little rectangular blocks? And, as there appears to be no mortar (between "courses"), how they are attached to the structure? You have natural stone like this http://www.nsvi.com/ You also have man made products like this http://www.eldoradostone.com/ If you are somewhat far away you can use the Eldorado stuff but up close you want the natural stone. The cultured stone is very regular in height and you just stack them up. The natural stone can be diamond cut or split. Diamond cut is very regular too. The split stone looks better but there is a lot of hand fitting. We made an entertainment center, electric fire place etc with the split NVSI stone and I thought it came out well but doing the puzzle takes a little time. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet/Our...s/image010.jpg This is mostly done in this picture but I had not finished the wood trim, the kicks and the far panel. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015.jpg All of the panels open and the whole thing is on wheels. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015%20open.jpg You put down expanded metal stucco lath, mortar it and stick on the stone like you would do tile. I like "flex" mortar because it really sticks. Then use a wet tooth brush to remove any mortar that squeezes out. That usually means you used too much mortar. Most of those photos are what I think of as stacked stone. And the stone seems to be in small sections because that's the way it is currently coming loose. The wood stove insert downstairs has that stacked stone and I hate it, mainly because it's drab and more because over the years sections of it have come loose. Can't wait to take it off and replace it with something else. If you set it with flex mortar it isn't going to come loose. The cultured stone is pretty drab looking but the natural stone is vibrant and you can hit it with a sealer like stone glamor to really bring up the color if you want. I like it natural. The real advantage of natural stone is it is not going to fade in the sun and it is very stain resistant. The same is not going to be true of the cultured product. There are also lots of kinds of stone. Seems that everything in this house is maple, the floors, the cabinets, the window frames. There is a lot of maple in this house and that's the way it was when we bought it. The walls are painted in nice, rich colors and while that helps, it's not enough, imo. We've already changed the countertops and the downstairs wood stove surround is next. |
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#11
Posted to alt.home.repair
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/17/2016 10:21 AM, wrote:
http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet/Our...s/image010.jpg This is mostly done in this picture but I had not finished the wood trim, the kicks and the far panel. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015.jpg All of the panels open and the whole thing is on wheels. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015%20open.jpg You put down expanded metal stucco lath, mortar it and stick on the stone like you would do tile. I like "flex" mortar because it really sticks. Then use a wet tooth brush to remove any mortar that squeezes out. That usually means you used too much mortar. If you set it with flex mortar it isn't going to come loose. The cultured stone is pretty drab looking but the natural stone is vibrant and you can hit it with a sealer like stone glamor to really bring up the color if you want. I like it natural. The real advantage of natural stone is it is not going to fade in the sun and it is very stain resistant. The same is not going to be true of the cultured product. There are also lots of kinds of stone. q: In the photos, it looks like it's a fireplace below the tv. Doesn't the heat from the fireplace also heat up the tv? Wouldn't the heat do damage? -- Maggie |
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#12
Posted to alt.home.repair
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 14:24:00 -0600, Muggles
wrote: On 2/17/2016 10:21 AM, wrote: http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet/Our...s/image010.jpg This is mostly done in this picture but I had not finished the wood trim, the kicks and the far panel. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015.jpg All of the panels open and the whole thing is on wheels. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015%20open.jpg You put down expanded metal stucco lath, mortar it and stick on the stone like you would do tile. I like "flex" mortar because it really sticks. Then use a wet tooth brush to remove any mortar that squeezes out. That usually means you used too much mortar. If you set it with flex mortar it isn't going to come loose. The cultured stone is pretty drab looking but the natural stone is vibrant and you can hit it with a sealer like stone glamor to really bring up the color if you want. I like it natural. The real advantage of natural stone is it is not going to fade in the sun and it is very stain resistant. The same is not going to be true of the cultured product. There are also lots of kinds of stone. q: In the photos, it looks like it's a fireplace below the tv. Doesn't the heat from the fireplace also heat up the tv? Wouldn't the heat do damage? It is an electric with a 1.44kw heater. The blower gets the heat away from the TV pretty well. It does not seem to get warm above the mantel We seldom turn the heater on anyway. I have fans in the 2 equipment bays beside the fire place to get the heat from those components out. I used a remote sense thermometer to verify that I was not over heating anything. There are 2 satellite boxes, a PC, a ReplayTV, a DVD player, a disk carousel and 2 UPS units in there. |
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#13
Posted to alt.home.repair
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/17/2016 11:25 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 14:24:00 -0600, Muggles wrote: On 2/17/2016 10:21 AM, wrote: http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet/Our...s/image010.jpg This is mostly done in this picture but I had not finished the wood trim, the kicks and the far panel. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015.jpg All of the panels open and the whole thing is on wheels. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015%20open.jpg You put down expanded metal stucco lath, mortar it and stick on the stone like you would do tile. I like "flex" mortar because it really sticks. Then use a wet tooth brush to remove any mortar that squeezes out. That usually means you used too much mortar. If you set it with flex mortar it isn't going to come loose. The cultured stone is pretty drab looking but the natural stone is vibrant and you can hit it with a sealer like stone glamor to really bring up the color if you want. I like it natural. The real advantage of natural stone is it is not going to fade in the sun and it is very stain resistant. The same is not going to be true of the cultured product. There are also lots of kinds of stone. q: In the photos, it looks like it's a fireplace below the tv. Doesn't the heat from the fireplace also heat up the tv? Wouldn't the heat do damage? It is an electric with a 1.44kw heater. The blower gets the heat away from the TV pretty well. It does not seem to get warm above the mantel We seldom turn the heater on anyway. I have fans in the 2 equipment bays beside the fire place to get the heat from those components out. I used a remote sense thermometer to verify that I was not over heating anything. There are 2 satellite boxes, a PC, a ReplayTV, a DVD player, a disk carousel and 2 UPS units in there. yeah, I saw lots of components in the shelves. That was going to be my next question - if they heated up much being next to the heater like that. I couldn't see any fans, though, but that would do the trick for sure. Thanks! -- Maggie |
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#14
Posted to alt.home.repair
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 23:33:44 -0600, Muggles
wrote: On 2/17/2016 11:25 PM, wrote: On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 14:24:00 -0600, Muggles wrote: On 2/17/2016 10:21 AM, wrote: http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet/Our...s/image010.jpg This is mostly done in this picture but I had not finished the wood trim, the kicks and the far panel. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015.jpg All of the panels open and the whole thing is on wheels. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015%20open.jpg You put down expanded metal stucco lath, mortar it and stick on the stone like you would do tile. I like "flex" mortar because it really sticks. Then use a wet tooth brush to remove any mortar that squeezes out. That usually means you used too much mortar. If you set it with flex mortar it isn't going to come loose. The cultured stone is pretty drab looking but the natural stone is vibrant and you can hit it with a sealer like stone glamor to really bring up the color if you want. I like it natural. The real advantage of natural stone is it is not going to fade in the sun and it is very stain resistant. The same is not going to be true of the cultured product. There are also lots of kinds of stone. q: In the photos, it looks like it's a fireplace below the tv. Doesn't the heat from the fireplace also heat up the tv? Wouldn't the heat do damage? It is an electric with a 1.44kw heater. The blower gets the heat away from the TV pretty well. It does not seem to get warm above the mantel We seldom turn the heater on anyway. I have fans in the 2 equipment bays beside the fire place to get the heat from those components out. I used a remote sense thermometer to verify that I was not over heating anything. There are 2 satellite boxes, a PC, a ReplayTV, a DVD player, a disk carousel and 2 UPS units in there. yeah, I saw lots of components in the shelves. That was going to be my next question - if they heated up much being next to the heater like that. I couldn't see any fans, though, but that would do the trick for sure. Thanks! The electric insert runs cool to the touch, even with the heat on. The fans are in the back and vent the air up the back of the cabinet. It really does not take that much air flow to cool it. Two 4" "whisper" fans do it and you don't really even hear them running. It pulls the air from the bottom where it is naturally cooler. |
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#15
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/17/2016 11:56 PM, wrote:
On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 23:33:44 -0600, Muggles wrote: On 2/17/2016 11:25 PM, wrote: On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 14:24:00 -0600, Muggles wrote: On 2/17/2016 10:21 AM, wrote: http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet/Our...s/image010.jpg This is mostly done in this picture but I had not finished the wood trim, the kicks and the far panel. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015.jpg All of the panels open and the whole thing is on wheels. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015%20open.jpg You put down expanded metal stucco lath, mortar it and stick on the stone like you would do tile. I like "flex" mortar because it really sticks. Then use a wet tooth brush to remove any mortar that squeezes out. That usually means you used too much mortar. If you set it with flex mortar it isn't going to come loose. The cultured stone is pretty drab looking but the natural stone is vibrant and you can hit it with a sealer like stone glamor to really bring up the color if you want. I like it natural. The real advantage of natural stone is it is not going to fade in the sun and it is very stain resistant. The same is not going to be true of the cultured product. There are also lots of kinds of stone. q: In the photos, it looks like it's a fireplace below the tv. Doesn't the heat from the fireplace also heat up the tv? Wouldn't the heat do damage? It is an electric with a 1.44kw heater. The blower gets the heat away from the TV pretty well. It does not seem to get warm above the mantel We seldom turn the heater on anyway. I have fans in the 2 equipment bays beside the fire place to get the heat from those components out. I used a remote sense thermometer to verify that I was not over heating anything. There are 2 satellite boxes, a PC, a ReplayTV, a DVD player, a disk carousel and 2 UPS units in there. yeah, I saw lots of components in the shelves. That was going to be my next question - if they heated up much being next to the heater like that. I couldn't see any fans, though, but that would do the trick for sure. Thanks! The electric insert runs cool to the touch, even with the heat on. The fans are in the back and vent the air up the back of the cabinet. It really does not take that much air flow to cool it. Two 4" "whisper" fans do it and you don't really even hear them running. It pulls the air from the bottom where it is naturally cooler. awe ... I can picture how that would work. I have a small fan pointed up towards the ceiling where my oil heater sits. The warm air from it gets caught in the fan circulation and really keeps the entire room warm. I guess it doesn't take a big fan to do that. Mines about an 8 inch fan. -- Maggie |
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#16
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 00:35:07 -0600, Muggles
wrote: On 2/17/2016 11:56 PM, wrote: On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 23:33:44 -0600, Muggles It is an electric with a 1.44kw heater. The blower gets the heat away from the TV pretty well. It does not seem to get warm above the mantel We seldom turn the heater on anyway. I have fans in the 2 equipment bays beside the fire place to get the heat from those components out. I used a remote sense thermometer to verify that I was not over heating anything. There are 2 satellite boxes, a PC, a ReplayTV, a DVD player, a disk carousel and 2 UPS units in there. yeah, I saw lots of components in the shelves. That was going to be my next question - if they heated up much being next to the heater like that. I couldn't see any fans, though, but that would do the trick for sure. Thanks! The electric insert runs cool to the touch, even with the heat on. The fans are in the back and vent the air up the back of the cabinet. It really does not take that much air flow to cool it. Two 4" "whisper" fans do it and you don't really even hear them running. It pulls the air from the bottom where it is naturally cooler. awe ... I can picture how that would work. I have a small fan pointed up towards the ceiling where my oil heater sits. The warm air from it gets caught in the fan circulation and really keeps the entire room warm. I guess it doesn't take a big fan to do that. Mines about an 8 inch fan. When I was doing the heat load calcs on the components I used my Killawatt power monitor set to display current. Watts are really heat. (1kw ~ 3400 BTU) It turned out the satellite boxes were the biggest power hogs, even bigger than the PC, decoding a movie file. I split them up, one on each side. I am dissipating a few hundred watts on each side, max. It is not enough to significantly heat the room but it would make those equipment bays toasty without the fans. I am getting rid of the DVD and the Replay. My PC plays DVDs fine. I really want to get rid of the satellite too and be entirely online streaming along with a DVR that will record OTA. I have another, more capable PC ready to go that has the DVR card and the software but I just have not been ready to rewire that whole mess. As I said, the whole thing is on wheels so I can roll it out into the room to rewire. With all of that stone the center segment weighs about 500-600 pounds but I have six "office machine" caster sets on it so it rolls pretty easy. The book case on the left rolls too. The one on the right is fixed, since there wasn't really anywhere for it to roll anyway. It also has drawers instead of sliding panels (again nowhere to slide) and if it wasn't fastened to the wall the weight of the stone faced drawers would pull it over, even if they were empty. When everything is closed up, the stone fits tight enough that most people don't even realize it will open up. |
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#17
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/16/2016 5:11 PM, SeaNymph wrote:
Yet another option (my favorite) is a fitted stone facade. But, the sort where there are no grout lines -- just very tightly fitted stones (the stones having shapes similar to *bricks* -- of various sizes). I.e., the wall feels almost flat -- but rough. A cursory look at these sorts of walls (usually on commercial establishments, not residences) *suggests* that they are individual stones and someone just was incredibly patient/lucky to manage to ALWAYS find "just the right stone" for the odd shape that needed to be filled. Can anyone confirm that they are, in fact, sold as "assemblies"? That I don't have to budget weeks of time to precisely fitting a gazillion little rectangular blocks? And, as there appears to be no mortar (between "courses"), how they are attached to the structure? Are you talking about stacked stone? I'm not really clear what you're referring to. Got a link or some picture? No. There are a few commercial establishments in town that use the stuff in which I'm interested. I will have to take a camera and snap some closeups (anything from a distance wouldn't show the closeness of fit) I like the idea of the planks. That sounds really pretty. It has the advantage of presenting a contrast to visitors. Instead of the heaviness of the (painted) stucco, it's more organic and "rich". We may partially enclose both porches so this approach would make the areas feel more like rooms than "exterior areas". In either case, I figure I can just apply whatever as a veneer over the existing paneling, etc. (unless I opt to remove it to increase the R value of that wall) |
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#18
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/18/2016 12:39 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/16/2016 5:11 PM, SeaNymph wrote: Yet another option (my favorite) is a fitted stone facade. But, the sort where there are no grout lines -- just very tightly fitted stones (the stones having shapes similar to *bricks* -- of various sizes). I.e., the wall feels almost flat -- but rough. A cursory look at these sorts of walls (usually on commercial establishments, not residences) *suggests* that they are individual stones and someone just was incredibly patient/lucky to manage to ALWAYS find "just the right stone" for the odd shape that needed to be filled. Can anyone confirm that they are, in fact, sold as "assemblies"? That I don't have to budget weeks of time to precisely fitting a gazillion little rectangular blocks? And, as there appears to be no mortar (between "courses"), how they are attached to the structure? Are you talking about stacked stone? I'm not really clear what you're referring to. Got a link or some picture? No. There are a few commercial establishments in town that use the stuff in which I'm interested. I will have to take a camera and snap some closeups (anything from a distance wouldn't show the closeness of fit) Some time with google turned up this: http://southwestblock.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Stacked_Stone_1271348324.jpg Not exactly what I was describing but illustrates the key aspects: - "stones" are not uniform in size/shape (i.e., doesn't look like bricks!) - they are roughly the same color (unlike some that are multicolored) - the surface is somewhat flat (no big indents or protrusions) - stones fit together *tight* - no grout/mortar lines evident - any "pattern" is difficult to discern (the suggestion that this was pieced together from individual, unique stones and not cookie cutter) |
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#19
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/16/2016 6:37 PM, wrote:
You have natural stone like this http://www.nsvi.com/ You also have man made products like this http://www.eldoradostone.com/ If you are somewhat far away you can use the Eldorado stuff but up close you want the natural stone. Exactly. Folks will be able to *touch* this in the normal course of usage (e.g., approaching the front door, sitting on the porch, etc.). Also, able to scrutinize it "up close and personal". And, it wants/needs to be reasonably flat; can't have things jutting out that folks could bump into. The cultured stone is very regular in height and you just stack them up. The natural stone can be diamond cut or split. Diamond cut is very regular too. The split stone looks better but there is a lot of hand fitting. We made an entertainment center, electric fire place etc with the split NVSI stone and I thought it came out well but doing the puzzle takes a little time. So, they *are* individual pieces? Not prefabbed "assemblies" (that just happen to be "busy enough" -- visually -- that your eye can't readily discern a pattern)? http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet/Our...s/image010.jpg This is mostly done in this picture but I had not finished the wood trim, the kicks and the far panel. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015.jpg All of the panels open and the whole thing is on wheels. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015%20open.jpg Neat! Most of the properties, here, are surrounded by "privacy walls". They resemble cinderblock but they are thinner (front to back). Periodically, there are "pillars" made of "H blocks" (look like an H when viewed from above; the "thinner" blocks previously mentioned fit into the "slots" in the H). The pillars tend to be located every ~10 feet but there is often variation (lots aren't always regularly shaped, either!). One neighbor had fashioned a hinged door -- five feet high and 3 or 4 feet wide -- *in* the wall made to resemble the same blocks that the wall was fashioned of. I'd always dismissed the area as just "two H pillars that happened to be located close together" -- until, one day, seeing it *open*! When I next encounter it as such, I will examine it more carefully to see if it truly was fashioned of the same 3" thick, 8x16 "cinder blocks" or if there's some hackery involved. You put down expanded metal stucco lath, mortar it and stick on the stone like you would do tile. I like "flex" mortar because it really sticks. Then use a wet tooth brush to remove any mortar that squeezes out. That usually means you used too much mortar. Again, you're fitting individual "stones" (that are presumably very "thin", front to back)? |
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#20
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/17/2016 11:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
Seems that everything in this house is maple, the floors, the cabinets, the window frames. There is a lot of maple in this house and that's the way it was when we bought it. The walls are painted in nice, rich colors and while that helps, it's not enough, imo. Be thankful. Here, most interiors are textured wallboard, ceramic/saltillo tile floors and cabinets that don't seem to "fit" with the rest of the decor. We opted to go with hickory (though I much prefer aged knotty pine or maple -- but not birdseye) throughout the house -- so you are reminded of it instead of just encountering it in the kitchen. Tries to counter the "stoney" aspect of the stucco, textured walls, etc. Currently deciding if we want to surround the rooms with hickory crown and/or replace the drywall corners with hickory 2x2's. We've already changed the countertops and the downstairs wood stove surround is next. Removing the beehive fireplace will be the next interior "project"; before I lay the tile. |
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#21
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/18/2016 2:33 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/18/2016 12:39 AM, Don Y wrote: On 2/16/2016 5:11 PM, SeaNymph wrote: Yet another option (my favorite) is a fitted stone facade. But, the sort where there are no grout lines -- just very tightly fitted stones (the stones having shapes similar to *bricks* -- of various sizes). I.e., the wall feels almost flat -- but rough. A cursory look at these sorts of walls (usually on commercial establishments, not residences) *suggests* that they are individual stones and someone just was incredibly patient/lucky to manage to ALWAYS find "just the right stone" for the odd shape that needed to be filled. Can anyone confirm that they are, in fact, sold as "assemblies"? That I don't have to budget weeks of time to precisely fitting a gazillion little rectangular blocks? And, as there appears to be no mortar (between "courses"), how they are attached to the structure? Are you talking about stacked stone? I'm not really clear what you're referring to. Got a link or some picture? No. There are a few commercial establishments in town that use the stuff in which I'm interested. I will have to take a camera and snap some closeups (anything from a distance wouldn't show the closeness of fit) Some time with google turned up this: http://southwestblock.net/wp-content/uploads/2013/03/Stacked_Stone_1271348324.jpg Not exactly what I was describing but illustrates the key aspects: - "stones" are not uniform in size/shape (i.e., doesn't look like bricks!) - they are roughly the same color (unlike some that are multicolored) - the surface is somewhat flat (no big indents or protrusions) - stones fit together *tight* - no grout/mortar lines evident - any "pattern" is difficult to discern (the suggestion that this was pieced together from individual, unique stones and not cookie cutter) That is exactly what I have around the wood stove downstairs, except for the colorc and I still hate it g It's called stacked stone around here. |
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#22
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/18/2016 2:49 AM, Don Y wrote:
On 2/17/2016 11:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote: Seems that everything in this house is maple, the floors, the cabinets, the window frames. There is a lot of maple in this house and that's the way it was when we bought it. The walls are painted in nice, rich colors and while that helps, it's not enough, imo. Be thankful. Here, most interiors are textured wallboard, ceramic/saltillo tile floors and cabinets that don't seem to "fit" with the rest of the decor. We opted to go with hickory (though I much prefer aged knotty pine or maple -- but not birdseye) throughout the house -- so you are reminded of it instead of just encountering it in the kitchen. Tries to counter the "stoney" aspect of the stucco, textured walls, etc. Currently deciding if we want to surround the rooms with hickory crown and/or replace the drywall corners with hickory 2x2's. We've already changed the countertops and the downstairs wood stove surround is next. Removing the beehive fireplace will be the next interior "project"; before I lay the tile. My husband does wood working as a hobby and I'm a big fan of natural wood. That being said, it's rather overwhelming sometimes. The maple is not birdseye and it's beautiful wood. But a little more contract is what I'm looking for. This house has no drywall "corners". It was one of the first things I noticed and I would imagine few people notice that sort of thing. |
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#23
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 01:42:26 -0700, Don Y
wrote: On 2/16/2016 6:37 PM, wrote: You have natural stone like this http://www.nsvi.com/ You also have man made products like this http://www.eldoradostone.com/ If you are somewhat far away you can use the Eldorado stuff but up close you want the natural stone. Exactly. Folks will be able to *touch* this in the normal course of usage (e.g., approaching the front door, sitting on the porch, etc.). Also, able to scrutinize it "up close and personal". And, it wants/needs to be reasonably flat; can't have things jutting out that folks could bump into. The cultured stone is very regular in height and you just stack them up. The natural stone can be diamond cut or split. Diamond cut is very regular too. The split stone looks better but there is a lot of hand fitting. We made an entertainment center, electric fire place etc with the split NVSI stone and I thought it came out well but doing the puzzle takes a little time. So, they *are* individual pieces? Not prefabbed "assemblies" (that just happen to be "busy enough" -- visually -- that your eye can't readily discern a pattern)? The Eldorodo type "cultured stone" can be had in panels but it is pretty easy to see it is not stone and your sun may fade it pretty fast. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet/Our...s/image010.jpg This is mostly done in this picture but I had not finished the wood trim, the kicks and the far panel. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015.jpg All of the panels open and the whole thing is on wheels. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/cabinet%202015%20open.jpg Neat! Most of the properties, here, are surrounded by "privacy walls". They resemble cinderblock but they are thinner (front to back). Periodically, there are "pillars" made of "H blocks" (look like an H when viewed from above; the "thinner" blocks previously mentioned fit into the "slots" in the H). The pillars tend to be located every ~10 feet but there is often variation (lots aren't always regularly shaped, either!). One neighbor had fashioned a hinged door -- five feet high and 3 or 4 feet wide -- *in* the wall made to resemble the same blocks that the wall was fashioned of. I'd always dismissed the area as just "two H pillars that happened to be located close together" -- until, one day, seeing it *open*! When I next encounter it as such, I will examine it more carefully to see if it truly was fashioned of the same 3" thick, 8x16 "cinder blocks" or if there's some hackery involved. You put down expanded metal stucco lath, mortar it and stick on the stone like you would do tile. I like "flex" mortar because it really sticks. Then use a wet tooth brush to remove any mortar that squeezes out. That usually means you used too much mortar. Again, you're fitting individual "stones" (that are presumably very "thin", front to back)? These stones vary from an inch to an inch and a half thick but I actually have a mix of 2 different styles here because we wanted a lot of variation. It is all basically the same stone though. We have similar stone (flagging) on the patio and front porch too so it carries all the way through the house. It is a quartzite quarried from the Rockies, up the road from you. (Colorado,Wyoming Idaho is loaded with it). We have picked up pieces that are a perfect match hiking. I suggest you find a good stone yard around there and walk around. If you are like us and like stone, it can be addicting tho. We are in a state with pretty much no natively occurring rock and our house looks like a Rocky Mountain CCC project. It is all stone and wood. |
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#24
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/18/2016 6:27 AM, SeaNymph wrote:
On 2/18/2016 2:49 AM, Don Y wrote: On 2/17/2016 11:38 AM, SeaNymph wrote: Seems that everything in this house is maple, the floors, the cabinets, the window frames. There is a lot of maple in this house and that's the way it was when we bought it. The walls are painted in nice, rich colors and while that helps, it's not enough, imo. Be thankful. Here, most interiors are textured wallboard, ceramic/saltillo tile floors and cabinets that don't seem to "fit" with the rest of the decor. We opted to go with hickory (though I much prefer aged knotty pine or maple -- but not birdseye) throughout the house -- so you are reminded of it instead of just encountering it in the kitchen. Tries to counter the "stoney" aspect of the stucco, textured walls, etc. Currently deciding if we want to surround the rooms with hickory crown and/or replace the drywall corners with hickory 2x2's. We've already changed the countertops and the downstairs wood stove surround is next. Removing the beehive fireplace will be the next interior "project"; before I lay the tile. My husband does wood working as a hobby and I'm a big fan of natural wood. That being said, it's rather overwhelming sometimes. The maple is not birdseye and it's beautiful wood. But a little more contract is what I'm looking for. This house has no drywall "corners". It was one of the first things I noticed and I would imagine few people notice that sort of thing. I grew up with a "country kitchen" (knotty pine cabinets and wainscotting), mahogany tongue-groove paneled living room (ditto for the full basement), natural finish on all interior doors, stained wood trim around wooden windows, hardwood floors, etc. It's a much warmer feeling than the tile and (white) textured drywall + ceiling, here. However, different architectural style (and different building techniques) makes it hard to effect many changes. E.g., frontier style home means roof is ceiling. Roof, of course, can't be "flat" as it needs SOME pitch to prevent ponding. That translates to ceilings not being "flat" (parallel to ground). As a result, anything you put up near the ceiling highlights the fact that it is not flat! |
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#25
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/18/2016 1:26 AM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 00:35:07 -0600, Muggles wrote: On 2/17/2016 11:56 PM, wrote: On Wed, 17 Feb 2016 23:33:44 -0600, Muggles It is an electric with a 1.44kw heater. The blower gets the heat away from the TV pretty well. It does not seem to get warm above the mantel We seldom turn the heater on anyway. I have fans in the 2 equipment bays beside the fire place to get the heat from those components out. I used a remote sense thermometer to verify that I was not over heating anything. There are 2 satellite boxes, a PC, a ReplayTV, a DVD player, a disk carousel and 2 UPS units in there. yeah, I saw lots of components in the shelves. That was going to be my next question - if they heated up much being next to the heater like that. I couldn't see any fans, though, but that would do the trick for sure. Thanks! The electric insert runs cool to the touch, even with the heat on. The fans are in the back and vent the air up the back of the cabinet. It really does not take that much air flow to cool it. Two 4" "whisper" fans do it and you don't really even hear them running. It pulls the air from the bottom where it is naturally cooler. awe ... I can picture how that would work. I have a small fan pointed up towards the ceiling where my oil heater sits. The warm air from it gets caught in the fan circulation and really keeps the entire room warm. I guess it doesn't take a big fan to do that. Mines about an 8 inch fan. When I was doing the heat load calcs on the components I used my Killawatt power monitor set to display current. Watts are really heat. (1kw ~ 3400 BTU) It turned out the satellite boxes were the biggest power hogs, even bigger than the PC, decoding a movie file. I split them up, one on each side. I am dissipating a few hundred watts on each side, max. It is not enough to significantly heat the room but it would make those equipment bays toasty without the fans. I am getting rid of the DVD and the Replay. My PC plays DVDs fine. I really want to get rid of the satellite too and be entirely online streaming along with a DVR that will record OTA. I have another, more capable PC ready to go that has the DVR card and the software but I just have not been ready to rewire that whole mess. As I said, the whole thing is on wheels so I can roll it out into the room to rewire. With all of that stone the center segment weighs about 500-600 pounds but I have six "office machine" caster sets on it so it rolls pretty easy. The book case on the left rolls too. The one on the right is fixed, since there wasn't really anywhere for it to roll anyway. It also has drawers instead of sliding panels (again nowhere to slide) and if it wasn't fastened to the wall the weight of the stone faced drawers would pull it over, even if they were empty. When everything is closed up, the stone fits tight enough that most people don't even realize it will open up. That's a big and heavy unit! I didn't realize it was portable until you mentioned it here. I missed that in your previous posts. -- Maggie |
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#26
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 10:48:23 -0600, Muggles
wrote: As I said, the whole thing is on wheels so I can roll it out into the room to rewire. With all of that stone the center segment weighs about 500-600 pounds but I have six "office machine" caster sets on it so it rolls pretty easy. The book case on the left rolls too. The one on the right is fixed, since there wasn't really anywhere for it to roll anyway. It also has drawers instead of sliding panels (again nowhere to slide) and if it wasn't fastened to the wall the weight of the stone faced drawers would pull it over, even if they were empty. When everything is closed up, the stone fits tight enough that most people don't even realize it will open up. That's a big and heavy unit! I didn't realize it was portable until you mentioned it here. I missed that in your previous posts. The entertainment center we had before was fixed and wiring was a real nightmare. Being able to roll it out and get to the back makes it a lot easier to connect things and maintaining good wire management is easy. I have lots of those velcro straps in the back so I can tie everything up neatly. That fake chimney also acts as a wire chase to get the things coming from and going to other places easy. (through the attic) It also gave me an interesting tunnel for the train. |
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#27
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
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#28
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
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#29
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
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#30
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 12:10:50 -0600, Muggles
wrote: That fake chimney also acts as a wire chase to get the things coming from and going to other places easy. (through the attic) It also gave me an interesting tunnel for the train. I saw the chimney, but where's the train? What gauge is it? It is a G gauge with narrow gauge rolling stock. I usually keep it parked on the trestle across the dining room. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Trestle.jpg |
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#31
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 11:23:41 -0700, Don Y
wrote: On 2/18/2016 8:59 AM, wrote: The Eldorodo type "cultured stone" can be had in panels but it is pretty easy to see it is not stone and your sun may fade it pretty fast. The two places are probably the ONLY two places that are guaranteed to be in perpetual shade (both being porches with significant overhangs) Again, you're fitting individual "stones" (that are presumably very "thin", front to back)? These stones vary from an inch to an inch and a half thick but I actually have a mix of 2 different styles here because we wanted a lot of variation. It is all basically the same stone though. We have similar stone (flagging) on the patio and front porch too so it carries all the way through the house. It is a quartzite quarried from the Rockies, up the road from you. (Colorado,Wyoming Idaho is loaded with it). We have picked up pieces that are a perfect match hiking. The opposite is true, here -- I can't recall ever seeing a "wooden shingled" house! Everything is slump block, cinder block, stucco finish, stone-and-mortar, etc. And, folks seem to think there is only *one* color -- that of sun-bleached dirt! [A neighbor had planned on painting their (stucco over frame) house blue. Another neighbor, on hearing of this, promptly marched over and FORBADE them from doing so. "It will lower the property values!" Really?? So, his brown, sadly in need of a paint-job home is BETTER for us than *their* freshly painted blue?? It must have popped his cork to see other homes in the area getting painted bright yellow, teal, purple, "metallic chocolate", etc.] That was the appeal of the wood or fitted stone approach -- something not quite as monotonous as the dreary stucco (that covers most of the house, already). We have stucco over block for most of our houses, just because of the wind code. You have to put so much steel in a stick built home, block is cheaper. My "village" has pretty much decreed that baby poop beige is the standard here but my neighbors have all sorts of different colors on their house. The first guy to break from the earth tones is a Mexican guy who went with school bus yellow and once people understood that there are other colors in the box, we see blues, greens and soft purples. (sorry if I am not real good on the real colors, my crayon box only had 7) I suggest you find a good stone yard around there and walk around. If you are like us and like stone, it can be addicting tho. We are in a state with pretty much no natively occurring rock and our house looks like a Rocky Mountain CCC project. It is all stone and wood. I'm just trying to see what options are available *before* putting myself under the salesman's "spin operation". Always (IME) better to have contrary arguments ready at hand to see how well (if at all) he handles them. I kicked rocks around at my stone yard for months before I bought the first batch. Those guys are pretty easy to get along with, at least here. They will usually give you a handful to take home and play with. They are only about a quarter a pound so you really can't carry away any significant amount, money wise. We did zero in on the quartzite pretty fast once we got serious about it, then it was just the color (silver or gold). This stuff in flagging seems to be the perfect pool deck. It has enough texture to be safe when wet but still easy on your feet and it is totally maintenance free. We hose it off now and then but that is about it. It is a little labor intensive laying them but the time consuming part is doing the puzzle. We always end up playing with rocks for days deciding which one goes where. It is sort of fun tho. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/rocks4.jpg Then you mud them in. http://gfretwell.com/electrical/addi...0them%20in.jpg |
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#32
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/18/2016 2:41 PM, wrote:
On Thu, 18 Feb 2016 12:10:50 -0600, Muggles wrote: That fake chimney also acts as a wire chase to get the things coming from and going to other places easy. (through the attic) It also gave me an interesting tunnel for the train. I saw the chimney, but where's the train? What gauge is it? It is a G gauge with narrow gauge rolling stock. I usually keep it parked on the trestle across the dining room. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/Trestle.jpg Nice! I have a tiny N - gauge. My grand kids played with it and now the little engine has quit running. I'm thinking if I get another one it'd be a bigger scale. I like he old wood burning (look) engines, too, similar to the one you've got. I just can't see the tiny wheels of the N gauge like I used to. -- Maggie |
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#33
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
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#34
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 09:47:53 -0700, Don Y
wrote: On 2/18/2016 2:04 PM, wrote: It must have popped his cork to see other homes in the area getting painted bright yellow, teal, purple, "metallic chocolate", etc.] That was the appeal of the wood or fitted stone approach -- something not quite as monotonous as the dreary stucco (that covers most of the house, already). We have stucco over block for most of our houses, just because of the wind code. You have to put so much steel in a stick built home, block is cheaper. Hurricanes? Yes we are in the 150 MPH wind code zone. My "village" has pretty much decreed that baby poop beige is the standard here but my neighbors have all sorts of different colors on their house. Many HOA's, here, are mandatory and impose covenants on residents. Some of those make sense (keep up appearance, etc.). Others are just overzealous attempts at control. Our HOA deed restrictions "sunset" over 30 years ago and any attempt to reinstate them has gone down decisively (last time it was 44-14 for "no"). We operate as a voluntary non-profit corporation and usually still get 90% participation on the dues. Disputes are dealt with using friendly negotiation and not threats. It seems to work as well as the coercive operations. I suggest you find a good stone yard around there and walk around. If you are like us and like stone, it can be addicting tho. We are in a state with pretty much no natively occurring rock and our house looks like a Rocky Mountain CCC project. It is all stone and wood. I'm just trying to see what options are available *before* putting myself under the salesman's "spin operation". Always (IME) better to have contrary arguments ready at hand to see how well (if at all) he handles them. I kicked rocks around at my stone yard for months before I bought the first batch. Those guys are pretty easy to get along with, at least here. They will usually give you a handful to take home and play with. They are only about a quarter a pound so you really can't carry away any significant amount, money wise. We put in a decorative walk many years ago so went through the experience. And, of course, selecting the "aggregate" for the front and back yards. But, walking on stone is different than selecting stone PURELY for its decorative appeal (e.g., on a wall) This is basically the same stone but the walking surfaces are the flat side of the grain and the vertical surfaces are the end grain. We did zero in on the quartzite pretty fast once we got serious about it, then it was just the color (silver or gold). This stuff in flagging seems to be the perfect pool deck. It has enough texture to be safe when wet but still easy on your feet and it is totally maintenance free. We hose it off now and then but that is about it. Pools here tend to have some form of cement (?) decking -- with drains interspersed (to keep water from accumulating on top -- perhaps it just drains to the soil beneath?). That "Deco drain" is supposed to route the water away from the slab. They are closed on the bottom. You may get away with draining directly into the soil out there but if you do it here you will end up with a sink hole under the slab. Drainage here is done with grading. The pool deck pitches down away from the pool. I have pieces of deco drain here but they are mostly decorative, just to break new sections from the older ones. The 2000+ square feet of stone deck evolved over the years. We keep adding on. I imagine some water does go in there and they do end off of the deck. We wanted a yard (less maintenance?) but have considered an "infinite pool" (a spa seems to be a total waste of space -- giant bathtub?) But, then we're back to yet another maintenance issue... My spa swaps water with the pool so the maintenance is negligible. We don't heat it in the summer and when we do the solars do most of the heavy lifting. It is a little labor intensive laying them but the time consuming part is doing the puzzle. We always end up playing with rocks for days deciding which one goes where. It is sort of fun tho. Are they somewhat standardized shapes -- i.e., to limit the number of possibilities that you'd have to address? Not at all. This is natural stone and they just break it up into manageable chunks. Occasionally I will score the back side and make the rock I need but that is only when we are scraping the bottom of the barrel. Usually you can put a pattern together that works with existing stone. It is time consuming but we usually start laying them out and then spend a week or so just walking by and playing with the rocks for a while then doing something else. When we get a pattern we like we mud them in. The sections we got in a hurry with, look like it. After a while you do get a pretty good eye for it. Like most homeowner projects, about the time you are done, you are getting pretty good. I am still not sure we are done tho. Every time we stop, my wife says, "you know ..." and I am building something else. ;-) E.g., if they were just random/natural stones (size/shape), you could see yourself getting into a situation where you needed a 3" stone but only had 4's and 2's (silly example). OTOH, if they are all 4, 8 and 12 inches, then you really can't create a "void" that also isn't 4, 8 or 12 inches! (ignoring, for the moment, the boundary conditions) Said another way, is it truly a puzzle (like a store bought puzzle!) or more like a *chore* (just some motions that you have to go through but you KNOW there WILL be a solution) Exactly. It gets to be a Zen thing. As I said. you do develop an eye for it. You definitely want to do the puzzle before you start mixing mortar. If you use the diamond cut stones, they do tend to be regular heights. The split stones are just that, split wherever the grain in the rock goes. It does make a more pleasing wall when you are done tho. |
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#36
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Fri, 19 Feb 2016 11:26:25 -0700, Don Y
wrote: On 2/19/2016 10:33 AM, wrote: My "village" has pretty much decreed that baby poop beige is the standard here but my neighbors have all sorts of different colors on their house. Many HOA's, here, are mandatory and impose covenants on residents. Some of those make sense (keep up appearance, etc.). Others are just overzealous attempts at control. Our HOA deed restrictions "sunset" over 30 years ago and any attempt to reinstate them has gone down decisively (last time it was 44-14 for "no"). We operate as a voluntary non-profit corporation and usually still get 90% participation on the dues. Disputes are dealt with using friendly negotiation and not threats. It seems to work as well as the coercive operations. Our HOA is "voluntary participation". So, the only way to "enforce" any notion of consistency is personal intimidation. I.e., same neighbor who intimidated other neighbor NOT to paint "blue" was unsuccessful in "convincing" neighbor on the other side of him to not paint *teal* (blue-green). "If you want my house to be painted beige, you can BUY IT from me and paint it as you like!" We got over the problem of what color you paint things a long time ago. Basically all we try to stay on top of is the boat ramp and using the park. The boat ramp is easy, If you screw up there too much, we won't let you have a new key next year but it really has not been a problem. Pools here tend to have some form of cement (?) decking -- with drains interspersed (to keep water from accumulating on top -- perhaps it just drains to the soil beneath?). That "Deco drain" is supposed to route the water away from the slab. They are closed on the bottom. So, it's effectively a *pipe*? (trough) Yes it is 1.5" wide and 4" deep This is the brand we see most of the time here. http://www.advancedsurfaces.com/Engl...DeckDrain.html You may get away with draining directly into the soil out there but if you do it here you will end up with a sink hole under the slab. Drainage here is done with grading. The pool deck pitches down away from the pool. I have pieces of deco drain here but they are mostly decorative, just to break new sections from the older ones. The 2000+ square feet of stone deck evolved over the years. We keep adding on. I imagine some water does go in there and they do end off of the deck. Lots here are small -- often just 1/3 ac. Put in a front yard (and driveway) and a decent size pool out back and there's little room for anything else! Folks behind me have maybe 150-200 sq ft of "lawn" and the rest is pool. I have a tad over a 1/3d of an acre but I also have functional use of the FPL right of way behind me, the DOT right of way in front and a quarter of an acre of HOA property next to me. That is still a lot of grass to mow. We are running out of land we can actually build on tho. We wanted a yard (less maintenance?) but have considered an "infinite pool" (a spa seems to be a total waste of space -- giant bathtub?) But, then we're back to yet another maintenance issue... My spa swaps water with the pool so the maintenance is negligible. We don't heat it in the summer and when we do the solars do most of the heavy lifting. It's more than just treating the water (pools go green REALLY fast, here -- mosquito hazzard -- city fine). As lots are small and most of the trees generate lots of litter -- palms, mesquite (millions of little leaflets the size of a grain of wild rice), pine needles, etc. -- so you're always fishing stuff out of the pool. Pools here are pretty much always "caged". I have 2300 sq/ft under screen. That eliminates most of the leaf and bug problems. [One neighbor had to fish a palm *tree* out of his! Hint: they are very heavy when they've had a chance to sit *in* water!] I fish them out of the river now and them. It is a little labor intensive laying them but the time consuming part is doing the puzzle. We always end up playing with rocks for days deciding which one goes where. It is sort of fun tho. Are they somewhat standardized shapes -- i.e., to limit the number of possibilities that you'd have to address? Not at all. This is natural stone and they just break it up into manageable chunks. Occasionally I will score the back side and make the rock I need but that is only when we are scraping the bottom of the barrel. Usually you can put a pattern together that works with existing stone. It is time consuming but we usually start laying them out and then spend a week or so just walking by and playing with the rocks for a while then doing something else. When we get a pattern we like we mud them in. The sections we got in a hurry with, look like it. After a while you do get a pretty good eye for it. Like most homeowner projects, about the time you are done, you are getting pretty good. I am still not sure we are done tho. Every time we stop, my wife says, "you know ..." and I am building something else. ;-) Wow, that seems like a LOT of work! E.g., each porch would be a couple hundred feet of wall space. Back porch would be the worst, by far, as it has lots of window openings into it that would essentially act as "border multipliers" (where adjoining stones would have to "fit perfectly") E.g., if they were just random/natural stones (size/shape), you could see yourself getting into a situation where you needed a 3" stone but only had 4's and 2's (silly example). OTOH, if they are all 4, 8 and 12 inches, then you really can't create a "void" that also isn't 4, 8 or 12 inches! (ignoring, for the moment, the boundary conditions) Said another way, is it truly a puzzle (like a store bought puzzle!) or more like a *chore* (just some motions that you have to go through but you KNOW there WILL be a solution) Exactly. It gets to be a Zen thing. As I said. you do develop an eye for it. You definitely want to do the puzzle before you start mixing mortar. That's how I did the walkway -- laid everything in place before setting them properly. End up with pieces that you can't use (that find homes as singletons elsewhere in the yard -- e.g., under water faucets) If you use the diamond cut stones, they do tend to be regular heights. The split stones are just that, split wherever the grain in the rock goes. It does make a more pleasing wall when you are done tho. There's a new building going up a couple miles from here -- which is what gave me the idea. I will see if I can get a sympathetic workman to let me onto the lot so I can inspect (and question!) up close... Thx! If you use the man made product it does go up easier because they are basically Lego blocks, (regular sizes). The diamond cut are similar except for length. They come in multiples of a given dimension. That is truly stacking stone. |
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#37
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On 2/19/2016 12:10 PM, wrote:
Our HOA is "voluntary participation". So, the only way to "enforce" any notion of consistency is personal intimidation. I.e., same neighbor who intimidated other neighbor NOT to paint "blue" was unsuccessful in "convincing" neighbor on the other side of him to not paint *teal* (blue-green). "If you want my house to be painted beige, you can BUY IT from me and paint it as you like!" We got over the problem of what color you paint things a long time ago. Basically all we try to stay on top of is the boat ramp and using the park. The boat ramp is easy, If you screw up there too much, we won't let you have a new key next year but it really has not been a problem. There's nothing *practical* that the HOA *or* local residents can do -- other than try intimidation (as in the case of the "blue" neighbor). We're not a gated community, have no clubhouse nor any other "shared resources". They can hassle you (as anyone can) about violations of city ordinances (they *love* to **** and moan about "weeds"). But, you *should* be in compliance with those, regardless. Pools here tend to have some form of cement (?) decking -- with drains interspersed (to keep water from accumulating on top -- perhaps it just drains to the soil beneath?). That "Deco drain" is supposed to route the water away from the slab. They are closed on the bottom. So, it's effectively a *pipe*? (trough) Yes it is 1.5" wide and 4" deep This is the brand we see most of the time here. http://www.advancedsurfaces.com/Engl...DeckDrain.html Oh. So, the neighbors' must drain "somewhere". No evidence of that... You may get away with draining directly into the soil out there but if you do it here you will end up with a sink hole under the slab. Drainage here is done with grading. The pool deck pitches down away from the pool. I have pieces of deco drain here but they are mostly decorative, just to break new sections from the older ones. The 2000+ square feet of stone deck evolved over the years. We keep adding on. I imagine some water does go in there and they do end off of the deck. Lots here are small -- often just 1/3 ac. Put in a front yard (and driveway) and a decent size pool out back and there's little room for anything else! Folks behind me have maybe 150-200 sq ft of "lawn" and the rest is pool. I have a tad over a 1/3d of an acre but I also have functional use of the FPL right of way behind me, the DOT right of way in front and a quarter of an acre of HOA property next to me. That is still a lot of grass to mow. We are running out of land we can actually build on tho. When we moved in, we considered: - yard - pool - spa and ruled out the spa and pool on maintenance grounds (both would have been a nightmare given the 60+ ft pines behind us -- we find pine needles in our *front* yard!). However, we hadn't realized how much "maintenance" the *planted* yard would be! After felling all the trees on the property (litter, allergies, etc.) we opted for a more "lush" environment (40 and 50 foot trees just look like a *pole* in the yard) with large shrubs (10-15 ft tall) around the perimeter. We've been through several iterations as we've discovered the drawbacks of various species *empirically*. Some terrible for litter; others bad for reseeding prolificly; still others poisonous to the dogs; etc. The roses that we *had* to have lasted a few years before SHE got tired of maintaining them ("OK, I'll plant them but *you* have to take care of them!"). But, the rest of the plantings have proven inviting for the hummingbirds (and other birds, unfortunately) so we scored on that count. [I should have adopted the same criteria with the citrus as *I* don't eat the stuff -- yet seem to bear the brunt of the maintenance efforts; presently juicing 2G each day and will continue to do so for at least another week -- then pick the remaining fruit so the blossoms won't have competition] We wanted a yard (less maintenance?) but have considered an "infinite pool" (a spa seems to be a total waste of space -- giant bathtub?) But, then we're back to yet another maintenance issue... My spa swaps water with the pool so the maintenance is negligible. We don't heat it in the summer and when we do the solars do most of the heavy lifting. It's more than just treating the water (pools go green REALLY fast, here -- mosquito hazzard -- city fine). As lots are small and most of the trees generate lots of litter -- palms, mesquite (millions of little leaflets the size of a grain of wild rice), pine needles, etc. -- so you're always fishing stuff out of the pool. Pools here are pretty much always "caged". I have 2300 sq/ft under screen. That eliminates most of the leaf and bug problems. I had a friend in chicago with his pool indoors. Interesting "option" -- though cost a bundle to keep it and the "room" heated in the winter! If you use the diamond cut stones, they do tend to be regular heights. The split stones are just that, split wherever the grain in the rock goes. It does make a more pleasing wall when you are done tho. There's a new building going up a couple miles from here -- which is what gave me the idea. I will see if I can get a sympathetic workman to let me onto the lot so I can inspect (and question!) up close... Thx! If you use the man made product it does go up easier because they are basically Lego blocks, (regular sizes). The diamond cut are similar except for length. They come in multiples of a given dimension. That is truly stacking stone. From a cursory examination of this particular product, I can't discern any "regular pattern" -- regardless of how large a section I choose to examine. I will have to stop by when there are workmen on the jobsite and see if any can fill me in on how it went up (reasonably quickly; but, I wasn't noticing it WHILE it was going up) and what it's called. Time to pick another 30# to juice tomorrow... |
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#38
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 01:18:00 -0700, Don Y
wrote: On 2/19/2016 12:10 PM, wrote: Our HOA is "voluntary participation". So, the only way to "enforce" any notion of consistency is personal intimidation. I.e., same neighbor who intimidated other neighbor NOT to paint "blue" was unsuccessful in "convincing" neighbor on the other side of him to not paint *teal* (blue-green). "If you want my house to be painted beige, you can BUY IT from me and paint it as you like!" We got over the problem of what color you paint things a long time ago. Basically all we try to stay on top of is the boat ramp and using the park. The boat ramp is easy, If you screw up there too much, we won't let you have a new key next year but it really has not been a problem. There's nothing *practical* that the HOA *or* local residents can do -- other than try intimidation (as in the case of the "blue" neighbor). We're not a gated community, have no clubhouse nor any other "shared resources". They can hassle you (as anyone can) about violations of city ordinances (they *love* to **** and moan about "weeds"). But, you *should* be in compliance with those, regardless. The county won't step in here until the weeds/grass or whatever is over 18" over a certain percentage of the lot but if the lot is vacant, foreclosed or whatever the HOA would mow it before it ever got that bad. The people who live here are pretty good about mowing before it really gets bad. If you don't irrigate and do the chemical thing, most people would call our lawns weeds anyway. In the rainy season it is bahia grass and in the winter it is these little white flowers. Sort of looks like a dusting of snow. http://gfretwell.com/ftp/light%20dusting.jpg Pools here tend to have some form of cement (?) decking -- with drains interspersed (to keep water from accumulating on top -- perhaps it just drains to the soil beneath?). That "Deco drain" is supposed to route the water away from the slab. They are closed on the bottom. So, it's effectively a *pipe*? (trough) Yes it is 1.5" wide and 4" deep This is the brand we see most of the time here. http://www.advancedsurfaces.com/Engl...DeckDrain.html Oh. So, the neighbors' must drain "somewhere". No evidence of that... There us just going to be a small cut out on the edge of the slab From a cursory examination of this particular product, I can't discern any "regular pattern" -- regardless of how large a section I choose to examine. I will have to stop by when there are workmen on the jobsite and see if any can fill me in on how it went up (reasonably quickly; but, I wasn't noticing it WHILE it was going up) and what it's called. The "regular" part is the height of the stones, usually 3 sizes that are multiples of the smallest one. It allows you to mix them up and make it look random. Time to pick another 30# to juice tomorrow... We had 40 fruit trees here of various varieties, they are all gone now. I don't miss them |
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#39
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
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#40
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(dry) "Fitted stone" facades
On Sat, 20 Feb 2016 14:47:54 -0700, Don Y
wrote: On 2/20/2016 11:14 AM, wrote: They can hassle you (as anyone can) about violations of city ordinances (they *love* to **** and moan about "weeds"). But, you *should* be in compliance with those, regardless. The county won't step in here until the weeds/grass or whatever is over 18" over a certain percentage of the lot but if the lot is vacant, foreclosed or whatever the HOA would mow it before it ever got that bad. The people who live here are pretty good about mowing before it really gets bad. Few folks have "grass" as grass needs to be watered. The city will promptly notify you if a complaint is brought to their attention (though they don't go out checking neighborhoods LOOKING for violations). After 10 days, you can be fined (no idea as to the amount). We can have grass about 8-9 months a year on rain and if you want to be responsible you grow something that will come back after it turns brown for a while, bahia aka median strip grass From a cursory examination of this particular product, I can't discern any "regular pattern" -- regardless of how large a section I choose to examine. I will have to stop by when there are workmen on the jobsite and see if any can fill me in on how it went up (reasonably quickly; but, I wasn't noticing it WHILE it was going up) and what it's called. The "regular" part is the height of the stones, usually 3 sizes that are multiples of the smallest one. It allows you to mix them up and make it look random. Then how do you accommodate a "large and fat" stone in the middle of the pattern? we are not using many diamond cut rocks. This is a mix to try to look like loose stone masonry. Way more than half are just split and we tried to mix it up Time to pick another 30# to juice tomorrow... We had 40 fruit trees here of various varieties, they are all gone now. I don't miss them I wouldn't miss these! (though I *do* miss the blood orange; it's juice was heavenly!) But, SWMBO likes her oranges and her OJ. (truth be told, I much prefer our *sweet* lemon juice in my tea than the store bought *sour* stuff!). We didn't hesitate to get rid of the peach or the pecan. And, when the Valencia gets whacked (cold spell), I'll be happy to pull it out (and plant a blood orange in its place). Unfortunately, big crop this year -- I've even started juicing the *navels* (disgustingly sweet) -- and the freezer is already pretty full with other items. In the past, the navels came due earlier than the Valencias... which came due earlier than the blood oranges. But, winters have been getting less severe and the trees want to get started on the *next* crop sooner (the oranges are just starting to blossom; lemon has been setting out blossoms all winter; lime already has small *fruit*!) There is a guy up the street who sells them cheaper than maintaining the trees |
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