On Mon, 30 Nov 2015 17:00:06 -0000 (UTC), "Danny D."
wrote:

I would just like some advice since I melted a USB cable today
and I realized I don't have the proper troubleshooting skills.

I bought over a half-dozen "Hype Volt" 6.8Amp USB chargers for
stuffing the Christmas stockings:
https://i.imgur.com/Zavgm4B.jpg

I kept one for myself, but, when I used it last night on an iPad
and on an Android phone, the iPad lightning cable melted!

When I pulled it off the iPad, it was noticeably extremely hot,
but it doesn't seem to have damaged the iPad (AFAIK).

So, I'm just wondering what happened, and, more importantly, when
I look at the specs for this device, they don't make sense to me,
so, I have difficulty troubleshooting what the problem is/was.

I dont know why your cable melted, but a neighbor bought one of those
car cigarette lighter adaptors for his hunting cabin, which has no
electricity. He rigged up a cig lighter socket with clips on it, and
brings a charged battery to the cabin, and clips this thing on to it to
charge his cellphone.

One day he connected the clips backwards on the battery and that adaptor
went up in smoke.

I guess I never thought about that, so if someone has a vehicle with
POSITIVE ground, those adaptors would not work!

On Monday, November 30, 2015 at 8:38:21 PM UTC-6, Bruce Sinclair wrote:
In article , "Danny D." wrote:
Bruce Sinclair wrote, on Tue, 01 Dec 2015 01:56:02 +0000:

?? The definition (or one of them ) of watt is W=VxA (or VA). Are you
saying they are different ? ... if so, why ?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watt

We both agree that an AC VA is a watt just as much as a DC
volt time amps is a watt.

I found out later that the 40Watts is almost certainly a lie or
a misprint, since the same part number "HC363-5U" also fits an
exact duplicate looking device, only under a different brand
name, but with the wattage listed as a more reasonably close
35Watts to the calculated 34 Watts maximum output.

So, the input AC power factor is just a red herring, totally unrelated
to anything being discussed here.



And the difference between 35 and 40 W is so small as to be irrelevant too I
suggest.

Um, at 5 volts, wouldn't that be 1 amp? ヽ(€¢€¿€¢)ノ

[8~{} Uncle Amp Monster

Tony Hwang wrote, on Mon, 30 Nov 2015 19:41:41 -0700:

Spend some money and buy some decent product

When the price of a product fluctuates 300%, how do you know a decent product
from a not-decent product if not from the spec printed on the package?

Bruce Sinclair wrote, on Tue, 01 Dec 2015 03:38:14 +0000:

And the difference between 35 and 40 W is so small as to be irrelevant too I
suggest.

You've got to be kidding.
It's huge the difference.

15% is a huge lie on something so simple to calculate.

On Mon, 30 Nov 2015 19:00:30 -0000 (UTC), Danny D. wrote:

That's not even close to 40 Watts (it's 15% off).

In electronics, +/-15% isn't too far off :-) . Cheers, -- tlvp
--
Avant de repondre, jeter la poubelle, SVP.

In message
Tony Hwang wrote:
We have couple iPADs kicking around in the house. I wouldn't use

There is no such thing as an iPAD; the word is iPad.


--
Internet was down last night. Turns out I have two kids. They seem
pretty well-behaved

Lewis wrote in
:

In message
Tony Hwang wrote:
We have couple iPADs kicking around in the house. I wouldn't use

There is no such thing as an iPAD; the word is iPad.

My wife has one of those. Considering the price and what you get, I call
it the "i****".

In article , Zak W
wrote:

We have couple iPADs kicking around in the house. I wouldn't use

There is no such thing as an iPAD; the word is iPad.

My wife has one of those. Considering the price and what you get, I call
it the "i****".

ipads are comparable in price and features to similar android tablets
but why let facts get in the way of mindless bashing.

On Monday, November 30, 2015 at 8:07:53 PM UTC-5, Danny D. wrote:
Bruce Sinclair wrote, on Tue, 01 Dec 2015 01:56:02 +0000:

?? The definition (or one of them ) of watt is W=VxA (or VA). Are you
saying they are different ? ... if so, why ?
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Watt

We both agree that an AC VA is a watt just as much as a DC
volt time amps is a watt.


That is not correct. Volt x amps are equal to watts only if
the power factor is one. That's true for a resistive load.
But for a load with inductance or capacitance, like your
charger, VA watts and the actual power in watts will be
less than the VA rating.

Danny D:
I would just like some advice since I melted a USB cable today
and I realized I don't have the proper troubleshooting skills...

You don't need to be an engineer, don't need all the technical details
and power formulae. You just need to know that you bought a cheap,
off-brand charger that was made in a country that is infamous for
producing shoddy and dangerous electrical devices--like the surge
protector that I bought that had the hot and ground wires soldered to
the same terminal. Be glad that it melted the the USB connector and
didn't set your house afire and kill your family. And next time, don't
be penny wise and pound foolish; buy the manufacturer's original
charger for each device.

--
I agree with almost everything that you have said and almost everything that
you will say in your entire life.

usenet *at* davidillig dawt cawm

In article , Davoud
wrote:

I would just like some advice since I melted a USB cable today
and I realized I don't have the proper troubleshooting skills...

You don't need to be an engineer, don't need all the technical details
and power formulae. You just need to know that you bought a cheap,
off-brand charger that was made in a country that is infamous for
producing shoddy and dangerous electrical devices--like the surge
protector that I bought that had the hot and ground wires soldered to
the same terminal. Be glad that it melted the the USB connector and
didn't set your house afire and kill your family. And next time, don't
be penny wise and pound foolish; buy the manufacturer's original
charger for each device.

based on what he's posted, it's more likely to be a ****ty cable than a
****ty charger.

either way, he did cheap out.

On Tue, 01 Dec 2015 10:10:45 -0500, nospam wrote:

based on what he's posted, it's more likely to be a ****ty cable than a
****ty charger.

either way, he did cheap out.

I do not see that this op did any thing other than what every one does
which is they buy at a well good name brand reliable electronics store a
common part that has a stated specification printedd on the pakcage.

He trusted the name brand well known store and he trusted the pakcage and
he paid a fair price.

The issue seems to be that the pakcage is wrong.
But you can not blame the op for finding out that the pakcage is wrong.

How many people bought the same part thinking it outputs more power than it
really does?

The cable was also bought at a name brand well known reliable store and a
fair price was paid for that cable. You can not blame the op for buying a
common part at a good brand store and paying a fair price for that cable
either.

I wish more poeple were like the op.

In article , Arty Wilkinson
wrote:


based on what he's posted, it's more likely to be a ****ty cable than a
****ty charger.

either way, he did cheap out.

I do not see that this op did any thing other than what every one does
which is they buy at a well good name brand reliable electronics store a
common part that has a stated specification printedd on the pakcage.

he did not buy a good name brand of anything.

He trusted the name brand well known store and he trusted the pakcage and
he paid a fair price.

The issue seems to be that the pakcage is wrong.
But you can not blame the op for finding out that the pakcage is wrong.

nope.

whether it puts out 35 or 40 watts makes absolutely no difference
whatsoever.

How many people bought the same part thinking it outputs more power than it
really does?

it doesn't matter.

what matters is how much each port can source.

the total maximum only comes into play when all ports are in use, as
it's an aggregate total.

The cable was also bought at a name brand well known reliable store and a
fair price was paid for that cable. You can not blame the op for buying a
common part at a good brand store and paying a fair price for that cable
either.

the cable was not mfi certified and based on the photos, it was the
likely cause of the problem. it internally shorted out, got hot and
melted.

I wish more poeple were like the op.

of course you do, because you're a sock puppet.

On Tuesday, December 1, 2015 at 11:42:50 AM UTC-5, nospam wrote:
In article , Arty Wilkinson
wrote:


based on what he's posted, it's more likely to be a ****ty cable than a
****ty charger.

either way, he did cheap out.

I do not see that this op did any thing other than what every one does
which is they buy at a well good name brand reliable electronics store a
common part that has a stated specification printedd on the pakcage.

he did not buy a good name brand of anything.

He trusted the name brand well known store and he trusted the pakcage and
he paid a fair price.

The issue seems to be that the pakcage is wrong.
But you can not blame the op for finding out that the pakcage is wrong.

nope.

whether it puts out 35 or 40 watts makes absolutely no difference
whatsoever.


+1

He's down in the weeds. Whatever melted the cable, it wasn't
because of the product being spec'd at 40 vs 35, etc. I didn't
look at this in a lot of detail, but it looks like that charger
is intended to charge 5 things at once. IDK what the max charge
current is for USB, but with just one device on it, I'd bet it's
impossible to pull anywhere the rated *total* capacity, whether
it's 35 or 40. Something was wrong, but it's not the spec rating.



How many people bought the same part thinking it outputs more power than it
really does?

it doesn't matter.

what matters is how much each port can source.

the total maximum only comes into play when all ports are in use, as
it's an aggregate total.


+1

On 2015-12-01, Savageduck wrote:
On 2015-11-30 18:48:43 +0000, "Danny D." said:

nospam wrote, on Mon, 30 Nov 2015 12:45:25 -0500:

was it an mfi-compliant cable or a noname one?

How would I know by looking at it?

Here is a closeup picture of it:
https://i.imgur.com/Dy37Ek8.jpg

It has a USB symbol and that's about it for markings.

Damn! Did you wear out your "Paul M. Cook" sock already?

At least you could have come up with something new and different rather
than one of your earlier well worn nyms.

He will, in time...

--
E-mail sent to this address may be devoured by my ravenous SPAM filter.
I often ignore posts from Google. Use a real news client instead.

JR

On Tue, 01 Dec 2015 10:04:31 -0500, Davoud wrote:

--
I agree with almost everything that you have said and almost everything that
you will say in your entire life.

I think you're crazy.
Of course I know you will agree.

Uncle Monster posted for all of us...



On Monday, November 30, 2015 at 8:38:21 PM UTC-6, Bruce Sinclair wrote:
In article , "Danny D." wrote:
Bruce Sinclair wrote, on Tue, 01 Dec 2015 01:56:02 +0000:



And the difference between 35 and 40 W is so small as to be irrelevant too I
suggest.

Um, at 5 volts, wouldn't that be 1 amp? ?(???)?

[8~{} Uncle Amp Monster

Another one off the rails into the ravine and this one is burning...

--
Tekkie

tlvp wrote, on Tue, 01 Dec 2015 05:32:44 -0500:

In electronics, +/-15% isn't too far off . Cheers, -- tlvp

It depends.
In this case, you compare the exact same model number to
a part that says it's 35 watts and another that says it's
40 watts.

Given they sell for about the same price, which would you
choose if you did not know that the 40Watts was a lie?

Davoud wrote, on Tue, 01 Dec 2015 10:04:31 -0500:

You just need to know that you bought a cheap,
off-brand charger that was made in a country that is infamous for
producing shoddy and dangerous electrical devices

Try to find almost any USB charger that isn't made in China.
Even Apple chargers are, I think, made in China.
And that's as name brand as you get.

In article , Danny D.
wrote:


You just need to know that you bought a cheap,
off-brand charger that was made in a country that is infamous for
producing shoddy and dangerous electrical devices

Try to find almost any USB charger that isn't made in China.
Even Apple chargers are, I think, made in China.
And that's as name brand as you get.

the issue not where it's made, but that it was an *off-brand* charger.

name brand chargers, and not just apple, are made to certain quality
standards.

noname chargers don't care about quality. they care about how cheap
they can make it, so they end up cutting corners, which means they're
generally crap.

plus, the likely cause was the cable, not the charger.

In article , Bruce Sinclair
wrote:


I would just like some advice since I melted a USB cable today
and I realized I don't have the proper troubleshooting skills...

You don't need to be an engineer, don't need all the technical details
and power formulae. You just need to know that you bought a cheap,
off-brand charger that was made in a country that is infamous for
producing shoddy and dangerous electrical devices--like the surge
protector that I bought that had the hot and ground wires soldered to
the same terminal. Be glad that it melted the the USB connector and
didn't set your house afire and kill your family. And next time, don't
be penny wise and pound foolish; buy the manufacturer's original
charger for each device.

based on what he's posted, it's more likely to be a ****ty cable than a
****ty charger.

either way, he did cheap out.

.. sadly these days, price is not an indication of quality. Neither is a
brand name. Particularly since high and low priced, and "brand" and non brand
products are largely made in the same factory.

in general it is, but there are always exceptions.

however, the issue is not so much price, but noname crap.

In article , Bruce Sinclair
wrote:

You just need to know that you bought a cheap,
off-brand charger that was made in a country that is infamous for
producing shoddy and dangerous electrical devices

Try to find almost any USB charger that isn't made in China.
Even Apple chargers are, I think, made in China.
And that's as name brand as you get.

the issue not where it's made, but that it was an *off-brand* charger.

name brand chargers, and not just apple, are made to certain quality
standards.

Um ... what data do you have to back up that assertion (which seems
completely
wrong IME ). Chargers that come with apparently "quality" kit seem to crap
out about as often as the non brand ones from what I've seen.

Beware particularly the "switchable voltage" supplies ... where it is
possible
to select 2 voltages at the same time (not good for the plug pack I can
assure
you ).

open them up and look. the noname **** is usually garbage.

http://www.righto.com/2014/05/a-look-inside-ipad-chargers-pricey.html
Safety probably isn't something you think about when you plug in your
charger, but it's important. Inside the charger is 170 volts or more
with very little separating it from your iPad and you. If something
goes wrong, the charger can burn up (below), injure you, or even
kill you. Devices such as chargers have strict safety standards[14] -
if you get a charger from a reputable manufacturer. If you buy a
cheap counterfeit charger, these safety standards are ignored. You
can't see the safety risks from the outside, but by taking the
chargers apart, I can show you the dangers of the counterfeit.

in the chargers, he finds that the apple charger has a 5.6mm gap
between high and low voltage sections but only a 0.6mm gap in the
noname charger, which is so little that he considers it unsafe.

the transformer wires on the apple charger are triple insulated, while
on the noname charger, they're uninsulated except for a varnish.

and that's not the only problem. the output is crap:

Lab measurements of the output from the chargers shows a couple
problems with the counterfeit. First, the counterfeit turns out to
provide at most 5.9W, not 10W. Second, the output voltage is
extremely noisy and full of spikes.

noname chargers are not safe to the point where apple even offers a
discount on a genuine charger to replace the ****ty ones.

http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/arti...e-Cheap-phone-
chargers-burn-house.html
ŒThere are plenty of reputable companies that make accessories for
Apple products, and as long as you go with one of them, you should be
fine,¹ says David Price, online editor at macworld.co.uk.

http://www.digitaltrends.com/mobile/cheap-iphone-charger-burns-man/
Charging your phone is a safe activity, but even plugging a device
into a wall carries some risk. A Chinese woman reportedly died when
she*answered a call on her iPhone 5 while it was charging and an iPad
giving a man such a strong shock that it*sent him flying across the
room. There have been enough high-profile incidents around iOS
devices that Apple stepped in to provide discounts for its official
ones. Even so, that didn¹t stop Tim Tyrrell from getting a knock-off
charger for his iPhone 5 and suffering the consequences.

Tyrrell didn¹t want to spend the $25 * $30 that chargers from Apple
usually cost, so he opted for a $10 combo from eBay that included two
wall chargers and a car charger. Unfortunately, one of the wall
chargers exploded, leaving Tyrrell with a nasty electrical burn.
³Basically, the charger turned black and, it¹s where the USB cord
connects to the outlet, had a mini explosion,² said Tyrrell. ³It kind
of bruised the fingers inside where I plugged it in.²

noname chargers don't care about quality. they care about how cheap
they can make it, so they end up cutting corners, which means they're
generally crap.

Chargers/power supplies are really simple things. Yes, manufacturers could
cheap out and use nasty capacitors (saving a few cents) ... and yes I'm sure
that happens. But why do you think this *doesn't* happen in the 'brand' or
expensive ones ? Paper work and quality resultsa can be faked (easily).

actually, they're not that simple anymore. most of them are much more
than a transformer and a voltage regulator.

nothing is perfect, but the chance of problems with a reputable name
brand charger is *much* less than with a noname charger because
reputable companies have *way* too much to lose if they ship garbage.

nobody will notice if a noname company goes away, and it will reappear
with a different name next month shipping the same crap.

In article , "Danny D." wrote:
Bruce Sinclair wrote, on Tue, 01 Dec 2015 03:38:14 +0000:

And the difference between 35 and 40 W is so small as to be irrelevant too I
suggest.

You've got to be kidding.
It's huge the difference.

15% is a huge lie on something so simple to calculate.

As I said. Tiny. Not even a factor of 2 (that engineers routinely use), let
alone a factor of 10 (that starts to make things interesting).

In article , nospam wrote:
In article , Davoud
wrote:

I would just like some advice since I melted a USB cable today
and I realized I don't have the proper troubleshooting skills...

You don't need to be an engineer, don't need all the technical details
and power formulae. You just need to know that you bought a cheap,
off-brand charger that was made in a country that is infamous for
producing shoddy and dangerous electrical devices--like the surge
protector that I bought that had the hot and ground wires soldered to
the same terminal. Be glad that it melted the the USB connector and
didn't set your house afire and kill your family. And next time, don't
be penny wise and pound foolish; buy the manufacturer's original
charger for each device.

based on what he's posted, it's more likely to be a ****ty cable than a
****ty charger.

either way, he did cheap out.

... sadly these days, price is not an indication of quality. Neither is a
brand name. Particularly since high and low priced, and "brand" and non brand
products are largely made in the same factory.

In article , nospam wrote:
In article , Danny D.
wrote:


You just need to know that you bought a cheap,
off-brand charger that was made in a country that is infamous for
producing shoddy and dangerous electrical devices

Try to find almost any USB charger that isn't made in China.
Even Apple chargers are, I think, made in China.
And that's as name brand as you get.

the issue not where it's made, but that it was an *off-brand* charger.

name brand chargers, and not just apple, are made to certain quality
standards.

Um ... what data do you have to back up that assertion (which seems completely
wrong IME ). Chargers that come with apparently "quality" kit seem to crap
out about as often as the non brand ones from what I've seen.

Beware particularly the "switchable voltage" supplies ... where it is possible
to select 2 voltages at the same time (not good for the plug pack I can assure
you ).


noname chargers don't care about quality. they care about how cheap
they can make it, so they end up cutting corners, which means they're
generally crap.

Chargers/power supplies are really simple things. Yes, manufacturers could
cheap out and use nasty capacitors (saving a few cents) ... and yes I'm sure
that happens. But why do you think this *doesn't* happen in the 'brand' or
expensive ones ? Paper work and quality resultsa can be faked (easily).

Davoud:
You just need to know that you bought a cheap,
off-brand charger that was made in a country that is infamous for
producing shoddy and dangerous electrical devices

Danny D.:
Try to find almost any USB charger that isn't made in China.
Even Apple chargers are, I think, made in China.
And that's as name brand as you get.

But if you buy a name brand, be it Apple or Dell or whatever, you will
get a product that was designed by the seller's engineers and that is
manufactured under the seller's eye. Can there still be problems? Sure,
but the odds are much better that you will get a safe, quality product.
The off-brand products tend to be made in little sweatshops, people's
kitchens, wherever, without the benefit of engineering knowledge or QC.

--
I agree with almost everything that you have said and almost everything that
you will say in your entire life.

usenet *at* davidillig dawt cawm

On 12/01/2015 03:46 PM, Bruce Sinclair wrote:
In article , nospam wrote:
In article , Davoud
wrote:

I would just like some advice since I melted a USB cable today
and I realized I don't have the proper troubleshooting skills...

You don't need to be an engineer, don't need all the technical details
and power formulae. You just need to know that you bought a cheap,
off-brand charger that was made in a country that is infamous for
producing shoddy and dangerous electrical devices--like the surge
protector that I bought that had the hot and ground wires soldered to
the same terminal. Be glad that it melted the the USB connector and
didn't set your house afire and kill your family. And next time, don't
be penny wise and pound foolish; buy the manufacturer's original
charger for each device.

based on what he's posted, it's more likely to be a ****ty cable than a
****ty charger.

either way, he did cheap out.

.. sadly these days, price is not an indication of quality. Neither is a
brand name. Particularly since high and low priced, and "brand" and non brand
products are largely made in the same factory.

I bought some nice lighted Belkin USB cables at the 99-Cents-Only Store.
A few weeks later I saw them for $10 at Fry's. Same package. I love
the 99-Cents-Only Store.

--
Cheers, Bev
/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\/\
I remember when everybody posted to Usenet with their real, deliverable
e-mail address. Of all the sins committed by the spammers, destroying
the viability of the open Internet was the worst.
(Shmuel (Seymour J.) Metz, news.admin.net-abuse.email)

Bruce Sinclair:
.. sadly these days, price is not an indication of quality. Neither is a
brand name. Particularly since high and low priced, and "brand" and non brand
products are largely made in the same factory.

It ain't necessarily so. In my 10 years living in Asia I found that the
quality products were designed by U.S. engineers and manufactured in
high-end facilities. The cheap junk was often farmed out by
packagers/exporters to family workshops, forced child labor in schools,
etc. The maker got a crude diagram and boxes of the cheapest available
parts, and assembled the items without oversight or QC.

--
I agree with almost everything that you have said and almost everything that
you will say in your entire life.

usenet *at* davidillig dawt cawm

In article , Davoud
wrote:

Davoud:
You just need to know that you bought a cheap,
off-brand charger that was made in a country that is infamous for
producing shoddy and dangerous electrical devices

Danny D.:
Try to find almost any USB charger that isn't made in China.
Even Apple chargers are, I think, made in China.
And that's as name brand as you get.

But if you buy a name brand, be it Apple or Dell or whatever, you will
get a product that was designed by the seller's engineers and that is
manufactured under the seller's eye. Can there still be problems? Sure,
but the odds are much better that you will get a safe, quality product.
The off-brand products tend to be made in little sweatshops, people's
kitchens, wherever, without the benefit of engineering knowledge or QC.

not only that, but with a name brand, you get a company to go to if
something does go wrong.

with a noname brand, you're screwed, and the magnitude of the problems
are bigger. see my other post for just how ****ty a noname charger can
actually be.

In article , nospam wrote:
In article , Bruce Sinclair
wrote:


I would just like some advice since I melted a USB cable today
and I realized I don't have the proper troubleshooting skills...

You don't need to be an engineer, don't need all the technical details
and power formulae. You just need to know that you bought a cheap,
off-brand charger that was made in a country that is infamous for
producing shoddy and dangerous electrical devices--like the surge
protector that I bought that had the hot and ground wires soldered to
the same terminal. Be glad that it melted the the USB connector and
didn't set your house afire and kill your family. And next time, don't
be penny wise and pound foolish; buy the manufacturer's original
charger for each device.

based on what he's posted, it's more likely to be a ****ty cable than a
****ty charger.

either way, he did cheap out.

.. sadly these days, price is not an indication of quality. Neither is a
brand name. Particularly since high and low priced, and "brand" and non brand

products are largely made in the same factory.

in general it is, but there are always exceptions.

however, the issue is not so much price, but noname crap.

I disagree on both counts.

In article , wrote:
Bruce Sinclair:
.. sadly these days, price is not an indication of quality. Neither is a
brand name. Particularly since high and low priced, and "brand" and non brand

products are largely made in the same factory.

It ain't necessarily so. In my 10 years living in Asia I found that the
quality products were designed by U.S. engineers and manufactured in
high-end facilities. The cheap junk was often farmed out by
packagers/exporters to family workshops, forced child labor in schools,
etc. The maker got a crude diagram and boxes of the cheapest available
parts, and assembled the items without oversight or QC.

Then your experience differs from mine.

In article , Davoud:
It ain't necessarily so. In my 10 years living in Asia I found that the
quality products were designed by U.S. engineers and manufactured in
high-end facilities. The cheap junk was often farmed out by
packagers/exporters to family workshops, forced child labor in schools,
etc. The maker got a crude diagram and boxes of the cheapest available
parts, and assembled the items without oversight or QC.

Bruce Sinclair:
Then your experience differs from mine.

How long did you live/travel in Asia, and where did you live? That
could explain our differing experiences.

--
I agree with almost everything that you have said and almost everything that
you will say in your entire life.

usenet *at* davidillig dawt cawm

Bruce Sinclair wrote, on Tue, 01 Dec 2015 23:43:08 +0000:

As I said. Tiny. Not even a factor of 2 (that engineers routinely use), let
alone a factor of 10 (that starts to make things interesting).

Let's agree to disagree.
We're not talking "safety" factors (where a doubling is routine).
We're talking specifications.

If I gave you a 40 amp circuit breaker and it kept switching at
34 amps, you'd not be so cavalier about the huge difference.

Likewise, if I told you something was 34 dollars a month, but it
turned out to be 40 dollars a month simply because I lied, you'd
again not think to be so nonchalant about it.

On Tue, 1 Dec 2015 20:42:21 -0000 (UTC), Danny D. wrote:

tlvp wrote, on Tue, 01 Dec 2015 05:32:44 -0500:

In electronics, +/-15% isn't too far off . Cheers, -- tlvp

It depends.

Bought any resistors or capacitors lately? Resistors are commonly sold with
nominal values +/- 20%; capacitors, with +100/-50%. +/-15% may not be high
precision, but it's better than common precision :-) .

And anyway, 35 isn't a whole 15% less than 40, it's only 12.5% less, if
we're going to try for highest arithmetic precision here :-) . No big deal.

Cheers, -- tlvp
--
Avant de repondre, jeter la poubelle, SVP.

Off-topic troll...

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Savageduck savageduck1 {REMOVESPAM}me.com wrote in news:2015113016412693236-savageduck1 REMOVESPAMmecom:

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On 2015-11-30 20:12:47 +0000, Jolly Roger jollyroger pobox.com said:

On 2015-11-30, Danny D. dannydiamico gmail.com wrote:
I would just like some advice

Back to "Danny D." again eh?

Aah! You also noticed that.

--
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Savageduck

Off-topic troll...

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On 2015-11-30, Danny D. dannydiamico gmail.com wrote:
I would just like some advice

Back to "Danny D." again eh?

--
E-mail sent to this address may be devoured by my ravenous SPAM filter.
I often ignore posts from Google. Use a real news client instead.

JR

Danny D. wrote:

If I gave you a 40 amp circuit breaker and it kept switching at
34 amps, you'd not be so cavalier about the huge difference.

Bad example! Have you looked at the tolerance on the trip current of
a circuit breaker? It may not trip below 40 amps but don't expect it
to trip at 41 amps, not for a very, very long time anyway!

--
Chris Green
·

nospam wrote:
but the odds are much better that you will get a safe, quality product.
The off-brand products tend to be made in little sweatshops, people's
kitchens, wherever, without the benefit of engineering knowledge or QC.

not only that, but with a name brand, you get a company to go to if
something does go wrong.

with a noname brand, you're screwed, and the magnitude of the problems
are bigger. see my other post for just how ****ty a noname charger can
actually be.

In the UK (and Europe in the main) your claim if something doesn't
work or isn't to specification is against the seller. You have no
rights against the manufacturer unless you bought it direct from them
(though in some cases they *may* offer service). Thus it doesn't
matter at all if something is branded or not, you still have a claim
against the seller.

--
Chris Green
·

On 12/2/2015 4:37 AM, John Doe wrote:
Off-topic troll...

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On 2015-11-30 20:12:47 +0000, Jolly Roger jollyroger pobox.com said:

On 2015-11-30, Danny D. dannydiamico gmail.com wrote:
I would just like some advice

Back to "Danny D." again eh?

Aah! You also noticed that.

--
Regards,

Savageduck




Full quoting top poster.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 12/2/2015 4:37 AM, John Doe wrote:
Off-topic troll...

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Newsgroups: comp.mobile.android,comp.mobile.ipad,alt.home.repa ir
Subject: Advice sought on why 6.8A USB charger melted USB cable today
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On 2015-11-30, Danny D. dannydiamico gmail.com wrote:
I would just like some advice

Back to "Danny D." again eh?

--
E-mail sent to this address may be devoured by my ravenous SPAM filter.
I often ignore posts from Google. Use a real news client instead.

JR




Full quoting top poster.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..