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Default OT need step by step on this alternator/pulley/belt replacement

This is a 1977 Mercedes 280SE

belt, alternator, & pulley need replacing. everything is behind 2 other
belts, so...

any step by step instructions [maybe with photos], no video, just pics
somewhere on the internet?

Looks easy enough, but want to make sure there's no 'gotcha' half way
through it.


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Default OT need step by step on this alternator/pulley/belt replacement

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 16:51:43 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

This is a 1977 Mercedes 280SE

belt, alternator, & pulley need replacing. everything is behind 2 other
belts, so...

any step by step instructions [maybe with photos], no video, just pics
somewhere on the internet?

Looks easy enough, but want to make sure there's no 'gotcha' half way
through it.


http://www.alldatadiy.com/index.html

One vehicle, 1 year online subscription for $26.95.
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On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 17:11:46 -0700, Oren wrote:

...snip...


http://www.alldatadiy.com/index.html

One vehicle, 1 year online subscription for $26.95.


thanks. that was also recommended by the place that sent me the parts.

I just spent 1 1/2 hour trying to get through their website, and even sign
up, between balking [most prevalent] and plain throwing me off the web
page ?! I finally gave up.

I kind of wanted to know what this entails before I invest. I may not even
have all the right tools to do it. Hate to pay, THEN find out I just
wasted the fee.


by the way the 3Rill has an english and a metric socket set, up to 12mm
socket

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Default OT need step by step on this alternator/pulley/belt replacement

RobertMacy wrote:
This is a 1977 Mercedes 280SE

belt, alternator, & pulley need replacing. everything is behind 2
other belts, so...

any step by step instructions [maybe with photos], no video, just pics
somewhere on the internet?

Looks easy enough, but want to make sure there's no 'gotcha' half way
through it.



Is there a Haynes or other aftermarket repair manual for your vehicle ?
They're available for most makes/models , and many non-mechanic people
like them because they don't usually assume a certain level of expertise .
--
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On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 19:05:23 -0700, Terry Coombs wrote:

...snip...


Is there a Haynes or other aftermarket repair manual for your vehicle ?
They're available for most makes/models , and many non-mechanic people
like them because they don't usually assume a certain level of expertise
.


I have a manual, that I've used before. It's in storage. I have NO access
to it at this time. Not buy another one. I just need to check if replacing
these items is an easy task, or if I get into the replacement and find
that unnoticed at the start I need to pull the engine out, type of thing.


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Default OT need step by step on this alternator/pulley/belt replacement



"RobertMacy" wrote in message newsp.w97twhri2cx0wh@ajm...

This is a 1977 Mercedes 280SE

belt, alternator, & pulley need replacing. everything is behind 2 other
belts, so...

any step by step instructions [maybe with photos], no video, just pics
somewhere on the internet?

Looks easy enough, but want to make sure there's no 'gotcha' half way
through it.

I have a Infiniti and wanted a shop manual. Dealer wanted $450.00
Forget that. I think it was on E Bay I found the complete manual on a DVD or
CD for about $10.00.
Bought that. Needed a lift when belts needed changing as had to get to top
and underneath .
Took it to my mechanic and he did it fairly fast. $25.00 labor plus belts. I
am too old to do this stuff. WW

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Default OT need step by step on this alternator/pulley/belt replacement

RobertMacy wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 19:05:23 -0700, Terry Coombs
wrote:
...snip...


Is there a Haynes or other aftermarket repair manual for your
vehicle ? They're available for most makes/models , and many
non-mechanic people like them because they don't usually assume a
certain level of expertise .


I have a manual, that I've used before. It's in storage. I have NO
access to it at this time. Not buy another one. I just need to check
if replacing these items is an easy task, or if I get into the
replacement and find that unnoticed at the start I need to pull the
engine out, type of thing.


Another manual aftermarket is cheaper than the online service you
mentioned earlier in this thread ...
--
Snag


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On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 23:13:37 -0700, WW wrote:


...snip....

I have a Infiniti and wanted a shop manual. Dealer wanted $450.00
Forget that. I think it was on E Bay I found the complete manual on a
DVD or CD for about $10.00.
Bought that. Needed a lift when belts needed changing as had to get to
top and underneath .
Took it to my mechanic and he did it fairly fast. $25.00 labor plus
belts. I am too old to do this stuff. WW


EXACTLY! I just don't want to get into something that may require a bit
more than is in the garage. But the answers seem to all be stuff like
"depends"; "$120+" if I bring the parts with me; or "have to look at it"
crap. I just want access to a mechanic who knows me enough to trust the
answer's 'qualifications' I understand, so I can get a real response or
find a mechanic who doesn't give out these rote answers that make him
sound like a crook. the "I have to look at it" bothers me the most, even
if it's a true statement. He could have at least said, "the last time I
did one of those I charged $xxx and be the same for you as long as your
car has NO problems. To be sure, I can tell you by looking at it ahead of
starting to reapair it." Same information, but just not said so sleazy.
And, likely after taking my car to someone who talks like that, I would
easily approve 200% more with some good justification.








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On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 05:31:35 -0700, Terry Coombs wrote:

...snip....

Another manual aftermarket is cheaper than the online service you
mentioned earlier in this thread ...


But haven't found one I can have in my hands today.
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Default OT need step by step on this alternator/pulley/belt replacement

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 16:51:43 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

This is a 1977 Mercedes 280SE

belt, alternator, & pulley need replacing. everything is behind 2 other
belts, so...

any step by step instructions [maybe with photos], no video, just pics
somewhere on the internet?

Looks easy enough, but want to make sure there's no 'gotcha' half way
through it.


Were you planning on repairing the alternator, replacing it with rebuilt or new
unit?


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Default OT need step by step on this alternator/pulley/belt replacement

Robert,

Many public libraries have a good selection of auto manuals. Many
libraries are now on-line.

Dave M.


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On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 16:51:43 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

This is a 1977 Mercedes 280SE

belt, alternator, & pulley need replacing. everything is behind 2 other
belts, so...

any step by step instructions [maybe with photos], no video, just pics
somewhere on the internet?

Looks easy enough, but want to make sure there's no 'gotcha' half way
through it.


Have you seen this?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm
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On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 18:13:10 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 17:11:46 -0700, Oren wrote:

...snip...


http://www.alldatadiy.com/index.html

One vehicle, 1 year online subscription for $26.95.


thanks. that was also recommended by the place that sent me the parts.

I just spent 1 1/2 hour trying to get through their website, and even sign
up, between balking [most prevalent] and plain throwing me off the web
page ?! I finally gave up.

I kind of wanted to know what this entails before I invest. I may not even
have all the right tools to do it. Hate to pay, THEN find out I just
wasted the fee.


Is there a Mercedes dealer close by? If, so call the parts department
and politely ask if they will copy a few pages from the shop manual.
They may or may not do that. The Haynes manual and Chilton CD I have
for my truck are very limited. Mostly for DIY, and are not real shop
manuals - that a mechanic uses daily.
....

by the way the 3Rill has an english and a metric socket set, up to 12mm
socket


I just bought the basic kit, drill, charger, two batteries and tote
bag. I have plenty of bits and drill nut drivers from years of
collection. My order went directly from Fed Ex to the USPS back east.
From NC to WV. Left WV ~ 1:00 am EST this morning. Global cooling is
slowing it down I guess Estimated arrival Jan 31st. I bet it gets
here before then.
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Default OT need step by step on this alternator/pulley/belt replacement

On Saturday, January 25, 2014 11:46:52 AM UTC-5, Lab Lover wrote:
On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 16:51:43 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:



This is a 1977 Mercedes 280SE




belt, alternator, & pulley need replacing. everything is behind 2 other


belts, so...




any step by step instructions [maybe with photos], no video, just pics


somewhere on the internet?




Looks easy enough, but want to make sure there's no 'gotcha' half way


through it.






Have you seen this?



http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm


Or these:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Mercedes-Ser...item417795636b


http://www.ebay.com/itm/MERCEDES-BEN...3ea847&vxp=mtr

I have the original manuals for the 116 series, but I have the 300SD
and the alternator is part of the engine, which is in a separate manual,
so I don't have it for the gas engine.
If you buy one of those, just make sure that it includes the manual
for the engine, not just the 116 chassis.

Those cars are basic and the alternator is easy to get to. If you
can see the bolts holding it and it looks clear how it comes off,
I wouldn't be worried about doing it without the manual.


As I side thing, I've always wondered how people are selling
all kinds of auto manufacturer's manuals online on CD's. You
would think this is copyrighted and they would be busted.
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On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 09:43:13 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 16:51:43 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

This is a 1977 Mercedes 280SE

belt, alternator, & pulley need replacing. everything is behind 2 other
belts, so...

any step by step instructions [maybe with photos], no video, just pics
somewhere on the internet?

Looks easy enough, but want to make sure there's no 'gotcha' half way
through it.


Were you planning on repairing the alternator, replacing it with rebuilt
or new
unit?




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On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 09:43:13 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

On Fri, 24 Jan 2014 16:51:43 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

This is a 1977 Mercedes 280SE

belt, alternator, & pulley need replacing. everything is behind 2 other
belts, so...

any step by step instructions [maybe with photos], no video, just pics
somewhere on the internet?

Looks easy enough, but want to make sure there's no 'gotcha' half way
through it.


Were you planning on repairing the alternator, replacing it with rebuilt
or new
unit?



Ithought I posted that I had the alternator, pulley, and belt to replace
the existing ones with.
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On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 09:46:52 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

...snip...

Have you seen this?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm


THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR THANK YOU!!

Although the specifc model is not listed in his list, the photos look
similar, and that everything is done from on top the hood access WITHOUT
special tools, just that very appreciated list of tools

Now, I wonder where he talks about how to get the other two belts removed
that are in the way ....
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On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 17:27:55 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 09:46:52 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

...snip...

Have you seen this?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...eplacement.htm


THAT IS EXACTLY WHAT I WAS LOOKING FOR THANK YOU!!

Although the specifc model is not listed in his list, the photos look
similar, and that everything is done from on top the hood access WITHOUT
special tools, just that very appreciated list of tools

Now, I wonder where he talks about how to get the other two belts removed
that are in the way ....


You are welcome. This should be fairly simple. Just remember, if the primary
wire to the alternator fastens with a nut to a thread stud, DO NOT over tighten
this nut. I would estimate 10 - 15 ft/lbs. This connection is usually made
directly to a diode.
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On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 17:34:29 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

...snip...

You are welcome. This should be fairly simple. Just remember, if the
primary
wire to the alternator fastens with a nut to a thread stud, DO NOT over
tighten
this nut. I would estimate 10 - 15 ft/lbs. This connection is usually
made
directly to a diode.


duly noted. don't have a torque wrench, but will only tighten until just
before I hear that distinctive 'crunch'
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On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 18:17:18 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 17:34:29 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

...snip...

You are welcome. This should be fairly simple. Just remember, if the
primary
wire to the alternator fastens with a nut to a thread stud, DO NOT over
tighten
this nut. I would estimate 10 - 15 ft/lbs. This connection is usually
made
directly to a diode.


duly noted. don't have a torque wrench, but will only tighten until just
before I hear that distinctive 'crunch'


Yeah, hard to describe how tight to make it, just make sure there is no twist in
the wire lug.


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On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 17:34:29 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

...snip...

You are welcome. This should be fairly simple. Just remember, if the
primary
wire to the alternator fastens with a nut to a thread stud, DO NOT over
tighten
this nut. I would estimate 10 - 15 ft/lbs. This connection is usually
made
directly to a diode.


are you at Rule in Boston?
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On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 18:17:18 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 17:34:29 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

...snip...

You are welcome. This should be fairly simple. Just remember, if the
primary
wire to the alternator fastens with a nut to a thread stud, DO NOT over
tighten
this nut. I would estimate 10 - 15 ft/lbs. This connection is usually
made
directly to a diode.


duly noted. don't have a torque wrench, but will only tighten until just
before I hear that distinctive 'crunch'


You can use a star washer behind the terminal. It snugs up swell,
without much torque.

http://tekfastners.com/images/star-washers-833443.jpg
--
"There's nothing like the scent of Cordite in a woman's hair."
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On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 18:46:49 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 17:34:29 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

...snip...

You are welcome. This should be fairly simple. Just remember, if the
primary
wire to the alternator fastens with a nut to a thread stud, DO NOT over
tighten
this nut. I would estimate 10 - 15 ft/lbs. This connection is usually
made
directly to a diode.


are you at Rule in Boston?


You lost me.
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Lab Lover wrote:
On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 18:46:49 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 17:34:29 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

...snip...
You are welcome. This should be fairly simple. Just remember, if the
primary
wire to the alternator fastens with a nut to a thread stud, DO NOT over
tighten
this nut. I would estimate 10 - 15 ft/lbs. This connection is usually
made
directly to a diode.


are you at Rule in Boston?


You lost me.


Your domain reads as rule.com. Rule is a camera shop in Boston.

http://www.rule.com
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On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 06:04:08 +0000 (UTC), DerbyDad03
wrote:

Lab Lover wrote:
On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 18:46:49 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 17:34:29 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

...snip...
You are welcome. This should be fairly simple. Just remember, if the
primary
wire to the alternator fastens with a nut to a thread stud, DO NOT over
tighten
this nut. I would estimate 10 - 15 ft/lbs. This connection is usually
made
directly to a diode.

are you at Rule in Boston?


You lost me.


Your domain reads as rule.com. Rule is a camera shop in Boston.

http://www.rule.com



Lol! I never would have guessed that! Thanks.


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On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 19:10:56 -0700, Oren wrote:

...snip...

You can use a star washer behind the terminal. It snugs up swell,
without much torque.

http://tekfastners.com/images/star-washers-833443.jpg


thanks, needed a source for parts.

Never thought about this before, but on what basis does one select an
internal or external star washer?

From the photo, the external have more pitch, and therefore more
compression range, so why the expense of the internal?

Any Mechanical Engineers out there can answer that?
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On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 08:46:50 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 19:10:56 -0700, Oren wrote:

...snip...

You can use a star washer behind the terminal. It snugs up swell,
without much torque.

http://tekfastners.com/images/star-washers-833443.jpg


thanks, needed a source for parts.

Never thought about this before, but on what basis does one select an
internal or external star washer?

From the photo, the external have more pitch, and therefore more
compression range, so why the expense of the internal?

Any Mechanical Engineers out there can answer that?


Don't use a steel star washer behind the wire terminal. Steel has a very high
resistance. The wire lug and the terminal itself are made out of a non ferrous
material with a lower resistance.

Just snug up the nut well.
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On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 08:46:50 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 19:10:56 -0700, Oren wrote:

...snip...

You can use a star washer behind the terminal. It snugs up swell,
without much torque.

http://tekfastners.com/images/star-washers-833443.jpg


thanks, needed a source for parts.

Never thought about this before, but on what basis does one select an
internal or external star washer?

From the photo, the external have more pitch, and therefore more
compression range, so why the expense of the internal?

Any Mechanical Engineers out there can answer that?


When tightening the B+ or primary wire to the alternator, the proper torque
would be approximately 25 in/lbs. (not foot pounds). Without a torque wrench,
if you are using a 6" long wrench, I would say it should feel like you are
exerting about 5 lbs of force (weight of a bag of flour) on the end of the
wrench while tightening.
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On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 18:17:18 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

duly noted. don't have a torque wrench, but will only tighten until just
before I hear that distinctive 'crunch'


Does the Mercedes also have belt tensioners?
If so, you might want to consider replacing them, while you're there.

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On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 09:06:52 -0800, Lab Lover wrote:

Don't use a steel star washer behind the wire terminal. Steel has a very high
resistance. The wire lug and the terminal itself are made out of a non ferrous
material with a lower resistance.


Thanks, I missed that part


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On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 10:34:54 -0700, H. H. Lovel wrote:

On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 18:17:18 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

duly noted. don't have a torque wrench, but will only tighten until just
before I hear that distinctive 'crunch'


Does the Mercedes also have belt tensioners?
If so, you might want to consider replacing them, while you're there.


Didn't see any.
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On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 18:27:18 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

On Sun, 26 Jan 2014 10:34:54 -0700, H. H. Lovel wrote:

On Sat, 25 Jan 2014 18:17:18 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

duly noted. don't have a torque wrench, but will only tighten until just
before I hear that distinctive 'crunch'


Does the Mercedes also have belt tensioners?
If so, you might want to consider replacing them, while you're there.


Didn't see any.


One last word of caution, when you do this, resist the temptation to
over-tension the drive belt for the alternator. Too much tension and you will
destroy the bearings in the alternator in very short order.

Do you know how to properly tension the belt?
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On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 07:25:09 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

...snip...

One last word of caution, when you do this, resist the temptation to
over-tension the drive belt for the alternator. Too much tension and
you will
destroy the bearings in the alternator in very short order.

Do you know how to properly tension the belt?


Thank you for your reply.

No, I asked around and was told 'no idea, mainly by the mechanics sense'
which doesn't sound very repeatable. Knowing German design, there must be
some way to do it properly. I just assumed about 1 inch deflection out in
the middle somewhere would be ok. There are THREE belts between that
alternator belt and the outside world! and the tension on one of them is
so strong you could bounce a quarter into the next county off it.

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On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 07:39:26 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 07:25:09 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

...snip...

One last word of caution, when you do this, resist the temptation to
over-tension the drive belt for the alternator. Too much tension and
you will
destroy the bearings in the alternator in very short order.

Do you know how to properly tension the belt?


Thank you for your reply.

No, I asked around and was told 'no idea, mainly by the mechanics sense'
which doesn't sound very repeatable. Knowing German design, there must be
some way to do it properly. I just assumed about 1 inch deflection out in
the middle somewhere would be ok. There are THREE belts between that
alternator belt and the outside world! and the tension on one of them is
so strong you could bounce a quarter into the next county off it.


Belt tension is one of those universal things. 1 inch deflection in all the
belts would be desirable.

If things start squealing, you can make them tighter. I would take the
opportunity to inspect and possibly replace your belts. Buy the more expensive,
higher quality Goodyear brand belts if you can. There is a big difference
between brands.

Also, use a plastic scrubbing pad to clean your pulley surfaces if possible.
Just be sure you get all the residue out of the pulley after cleaning.

When are you going to do this deed?
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On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 08:10:15 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

...snip .... to keep Aioe happy

When are you going to do this deed?


Sunday I spent two hours just removing the pulley to replace with, you
guessed it, one completely different! sigh.

Since alternator is shot, didn't even bother to replace the 'fan' section
[have a stack of left over parts], just bolted back together capturing the
belt which by now is very disdended [even small sections thinned by wear -
shudder.]

After that experience, and having all my auto tools in storage with NO
access, so won't buy more, don't feel real confident to take on the task.
Tested the pulley and belt combination with short drive. This is te first
time ever the belt stayed on for that long a time. AND didn't flip over!
kept its V-notch toward the inside! So armed with confidence I can drive
to the nearby garage that I've been talking with, will let the pro do it.
....I couldn't even find where/how to remove the other THREE belts to even
get at that bottom belt!

I guess I've verified the adage relating the ability to drive nails or be
an automechanic. I can drive a nail very well, three hits and its in, so I
guess I'm a rotten mechanic. As verified by the two hours JUST to replace
a pulley!

Are you at Rule in Boston? just to taunt you, it's 71 here.

Thanks again for the URL with pics. That gave me the confidence to go
replace the pulley to make it to the garage. Oddly, downtown Phoenix has a
myriad of 'mobile' mechanics, but rural has none. Seems backwards.


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On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 08:26:19 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

Are you at Rule in Boston? just to taunt you, it's 71 here.


Nope, I am about 2600 miles from Boston. And just to taunt you, it rarely ever
goes above 85 here.
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On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 08:33:39 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 08:26:19 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

Are you at Rule in Boston? just to taunt you, it's 71 here.


Nope, I am about 2600 miles from Boston. And just to taunt you, it
rarely ever
goes above 85 here.


We set our thermostat at 82 ! with this cold wave, we're freezing, the
house got down below 80. And don't even run the cooler til the house gets
above 92. think about delta temp, with outside usually less than 20-30
degrees different than inside, we're prety energy efficient. Now compare
to your area, probably 10 versus 68? that's a difference of 50+ degrees
!!! correlary here would be either 20F outside [very rare, if ever] or
140+ outside [hope that NEVER happens!]

But on the plus side, you won't get burnt by your car when you touch it.
....only the occasional tongue frozen to a flagpole.
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On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 08:44:19 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

Now compare
to your area


Ever been to San Diego?
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On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 08:49:58 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 08:44:19 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

Now compare
to your area


Ever been to San Diego?


ARRRGGG!!! a bit jealous! beautiful area

We used to go to Europe about twice a year and to relax from those
'vacations' we used to go down to the Del Coronado and stay a week in
'our' room. - little known room in the old section on the fifth floor with
NO rooms beside or over you, overlooking the ocean. With the sash windows
open you can hear the ocean, smell the breeze. There's an old fashioned
popcorn machine at the nearby liquor store the type that pours it out as
it pops. We'd sit in the room in bathrobes with our feet on the window
ledge, drink champagne, eat popcorn, look/listen to the view, and just
relax. sigh.

yep, a bit jealous.

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On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 09:06:16 -0700, RobertMacy wrote:

On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 08:49:58 -0700, Lab Lover wrote:

On Mon, 27 Jan 2014 08:44:19 -0700, RobertMacy
wrote:

Now compare
to your area


Ever been to San Diego?


ARRRGGG!!! a bit jealous! beautiful area

We used to go to Europe about twice a year and to relax from those
'vacations' we used to go down to the Del Coronado and stay a week in
'our' room. - little known room in the old section on the fifth floor with
NO rooms beside or over you, overlooking the ocean. With the sash windows
open you can hear the ocean, smell the breeze. There's an old fashioned
popcorn machine at the nearby liquor store the type that pours it out as
it pops. We'd sit in the room in bathrobes with our feet on the window
ledge, drink champagne, eat popcorn, look/listen to the view, and just
relax. sigh.

yep, a bit jealous.


I don't live in the hotel Del, but I have similar weather.
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