My google-fu is failing me. I've found lots of pulleys online, but most
of them have been single belt, or non-stepped double belt, or 3&4-stepped
pulleys. I need a 2 step pulley with a 5/8" bore with keyway, and a 5
3/4" OD on one step, and a 2 3/8" dia. on the second step. For 1/2"
V-belts. I do plan on checking with the maintenance guy at work, and
calling around to some bearing & belts places locally, but online would be
nice.

Oh, and sorry but this will be slightly long, feel free to bail out now if
you want.

A couple of months ago, I was asking for some help with a power feed motor
for this Index (now Wells-Index) vertical Model 40 mill. It wasn't
disengaging the start capacitor. I was able to get that fixed by cleaning
the contacts. It ran for a few months without any major problem. Well,
last weekend after taking a pass, it wouldn't start. Turn the switch and
it humms, but doesn't move unless you give it a kick, and then only runs
about that speed. I checked and the start cap looked like it had leaked,
so I figured it was time to replace it. Got one the next day and put it
on. Same problem. Hmm..I popped the cover off and didn't see anything
obvious, so I blew it out and put the cover back on. Turned the switch
after hooking it back up, and 'BAM'! Only a small amount of magic smoke
after I turned the switch off .3 seconds later.

I took it in to the maintenance guy and work as asked him if he could
check it out when he had a few free minutes. He was able to find the
shorted out wire and fix it, but it still had the same problem. He also
said it was so worn out that it probably wasn't worth the time and trouble
to try and fix it.

I found a nice Baldor motor on ebay for about $75 that was the same frame,
only instead of being an open frame motor, it was TEFC! Whoo-hoo, no more
shield to cover the motor. It is this one:
http://www.baldor.com/products/detai...g=40CMB%2DCONT
(watch the wrapped url)

It arrived, and while it was the same basic frame size, it didn't fit the
mounting plate. The holes lined up, but the motor was too far forward.
Oh well, it is a cast iron plate, and hey, I've got a hand drill here..
Well it worked, and after a slight mistake wiring it up to the switch
(no biggie, just it turned on when power was applied), I found the right
wiring instruction online and I got it wired up right. (I have a 6
terminal cylinder switch...the kind that works like this:

Forward Off Reverse
o---o o o o o
| |
o---o o o o o

o---o o o o---o

It needs a jumper between the two terminals on the lower right side to
work for the full forward/off/reverse to work right.)


Oh, and the day I picked up the capacitor, I finally ordered a new cutter.
I'd asked about that here too. I was looking a a proprietary cutter that
ran about $200. One of the suggestions was to check with a rep to see if
I could get a comparible deal. I checked online and while I could find
the cutters, I didn't really find a price, and since I wan't working that
much with it, it fell on the back burner. However, I did mention it to
one CNC forman at work, and he let me know that our Kennametal rep was
going to be in later that day. So, I was able to get a cutter. This one,
with the 3/4" shaft and 1.25" cutting diameter:
http://www.kennametal.com/e-catalog/...d=11F32E686A50

(watch the wrapped url)

With 5 inserts it ran me $203. I can get the inserts for about
$8somethign a pop, which means I'm running about $1 a side. I can live
with that. I'm using OFKT53AFEN4GB inserts. I haven't seen any for sale
on ebay yet, but if I have to buy them from the Rep, I'm not going to shed
any tears. It is so much more free-cutting! I can take 3 times the depth
of cut and the work is cool to the touch when it is done. I wouldn't mind
a better surface finish, but what I'm getting is acceptable. I can
quickly sand the faces before rewelding.

However, I noticed yesterday that it didn't seem to be running at the
speed it should for the way the pulleys were set up. So, I take a closer
look and see that two of the keys have fallen out of the keyways!
Argg... So, I take the motor off and pull the pulleys. The one isn't a
big deal, except the threaded hole is stripped for the setscrew to hold
the key in place on the middle pulley. And the pulley mounted directly on
the motor is cracked about halfway around. I'm not sure how long it is
going to last. Not only is it cracked, but there is a fair amount of
porisity in the aluminum.

Actually all the pulleys are in rough shape: nicked, dented, etc. I'd
like to replace them all. But they are functional enough for now that
I'll wait a few weeks. The bearings and shafts actully look to be in
decent shape.

Anyway, thanks for the help and thanks for putting up with this rambling
missive.
Todd

Have you tried McMaster-Carr? They have a giant assortment of
pulleys. Reasonably priced to support enormous inventory.

i

On 2009-02-01, Todd Rich wrote:
My google-fu is failing me. I've found lots of pulleys online, but most
of them have been single belt, or non-stepped double belt, or 3&4-stepped
pulleys. I need a 2 step pulley with a 5/8" bore with keyway, and a 5
3/4" OD on one step, and a 2 3/8" dia. on the second step. For 1/2"
V-belts. I do plan on checking with the maintenance guy at work, and
calling around to some bearing & belts places locally, but online would be
nice.

Oh, and sorry but this will be slightly long, feel free to bail out now if
you want.

A couple of months ago, I was asking for some help with a power feed motor
for this Index (now Wells-Index) vertical Model 40 mill. It wasn't
disengaging the start capacitor. I was able to get that fixed by cleaning
the contacts. It ran for a few months without any major problem. Well,
last weekend after taking a pass, it wouldn't start. Turn the switch and
it humms, but doesn't move unless you give it a kick, and then only runs
about that speed. I checked and the start cap looked like it had leaked,
so I figured it was time to replace it. Got one the next day and put it
on. Same problem. Hmm..I popped the cover off and didn't see anything
obvious, so I blew it out and put the cover back on. Turned the switch
after hooking it back up, and 'BAM'! Only a small amount of magic smoke
after I turned the switch off .3 seconds later.

I took it in to the maintenance guy and work as asked him if he could
check it out when he had a few free minutes. He was able to find the
shorted out wire and fix it, but it still had the same problem. He also
said it was so worn out that it probably wasn't worth the time and trouble
to try and fix it.

I found a nice Baldor motor on ebay for about $75 that was the same frame,
only instead of being an open frame motor, it was TEFC! Whoo-hoo, no more
shield to cover the motor. It is this one:
http://www.baldor.com/products/detai...g=40CMB%2DCONT
(watch the wrapped url)

It arrived, and while it was the same basic frame size, it didn't fit the
mounting plate. The holes lined up, but the motor was too far forward.
Oh well, it is a cast iron plate, and hey, I've got a hand drill here..
Well it worked, and after a slight mistake wiring it up to the switch
(no biggie, just it turned on when power was applied), I found the right
wiring instruction online and I got it wired up right. (I have a 6
terminal cylinder switch...the kind that works like this:

Forward Off Reverse
o---o o o o o
| |
o---o o o o o

o---o o o o---o

It needs a jumper between the two terminals on the lower right side to
work for the full forward/off/reverse to work right.)


Oh, and the day I picked up the capacitor, I finally ordered a new cutter.
I'd asked about that here too. I was looking a a proprietary cutter that
ran about $200. One of the suggestions was to check with a rep to see if
I could get a comparible deal. I checked online and while I could find
the cutters, I didn't really find a price, and since I wan't working that
much with it, it fell on the back burner. However, I did mention it to
one CNC forman at work, and he let me know that our Kennametal rep was
going to be in later that day. So, I was able to get a cutter. This one,
with the 3/4" shaft and 1.25" cutting diameter:
http://www.kennametal.com/e-catalog/...d=11F32E686A50

(watch the wrapped url)

With 5 inserts it ran me $203. I can get the inserts for about
$8somethign a pop, which means I'm running about $1 a side. I can live
with that. I'm using OFKT53AFEN4GB inserts. I haven't seen any for sale
on ebay yet, but if I have to buy them from the Rep, I'm not going to shed
any tears. It is so much more free-cutting! I can take 3 times the depth
of cut and the work is cool to the touch when it is done. I wouldn't mind
a better surface finish, but what I'm getting is acceptable. I can
quickly sand the faces before rewelding.

However, I noticed yesterday that it didn't seem to be running at the
speed it should for the way the pulleys were set up. So, I take a closer
look and see that two of the keys have fallen out of the keyways!
Argg... So, I take the motor off and pull the pulleys. The one isn't a
big deal, except the threaded hole is stripped for the setscrew to hold
the key in place on the middle pulley. And the pulley mounted directly on
the motor is cracked about halfway around. I'm not sure how long it is
going to last. Not only is it cracked, but there is a fair amount of
porisity in the aluminum.

Actually all the pulleys are in rough shape: nicked, dented, etc. I'd
like to replace them all. But they are functional enough for now that
I'll wait a few weeks. The bearings and shafts actully look to be in
decent shape.

Anyway, thanks for the help and thanks for putting up with this rambling
missive.
Todd

--
Due to extreme spam originating from Google Groups, and their inattention
to spammers, I and many others block all articles originating
from Google Groups. If you want your postings to be seen by
more readers you will need to find a different means of
posting on Usenet.
http://improve-usenet.org/

Ignoramus13011 wrote:
Have you tried McMaster-Carr? They have a giant assortment of
pulleys. Reasonably priced to support enormous inventory.

i

Yes, I found quite a few pulleys, but was unable to find a 2-step pulley
of any size. I may not be searching the right way, but all I get that is
close is step-cone pulleys with minimum of 3 steps, and none of the sizes
I need.
Todd

In article ,
Todd Rich wrote:

My google-fu is failing me. I've found lots of pulleys online, but most
of them have been single belt, or non-stepped double belt, or 3&4-stepped
pulleys. I need a 2 step pulley with a 5/8" bore with keyway, and a 5
3/4" OD on one step, and a 2 3/8" dia. on the second step. For 1/2"
V-belts. I do plan on checking with the maintenance guy at work, and
calling around to some bearing & belts places locally, but online would be
nice.

There's always "chuck some stock in a lathe and make one." I'd guess
that's what a supplier may have to do if you are going to buy one -
that's a rather drastic step between the sizes.

If you have enough shaft length, butt two single pulleys together,
perhaps modifying them slightly (face off any hub on the mating sides)
on a lathe first. If you don't have enough shaft for both to grub-screw
onto the key, pin them together.

--
Cats, coffee, chocolate...vices to live by

Ecnerwal wrote:
In article ,
Todd Rich wrote:

My google-fu is failing me. I've found lots of pulleys online, but most
of them have been single belt, or non-stepped double belt, or 3&4-stepped
pulleys. I need a 2 step pulley with a 5/8" bore with keyway, and a 5
3/4" OD on one step, and a 2 3/8" dia. on the second step. For 1/2"
V-belts. I do plan on checking with the maintenance guy at work, and
calling around to some bearing & belts places locally, but online would be
nice.

There's always "chuck some stock in a lathe and make one." I'd guess
that's what a supplier may have to do if you are going to buy one -
that's a rather drastic step between the sizes.

If you have enough shaft length, butt two single pulleys together,
perhaps modifying them slightly (face off any hub on the mating sides)
on a lathe first. If you don't have enough shaft for both to grub-screw
onto the key, pin them together.

The glitch in this is no lathe. Sorry.

Though I will follow up on the 2 seperate pulley option, and see if there
is somethign I can do.

On Sun, 1 Feb 2009 17:49:54 +0000 (UTC), Todd Rich
wrote:

My google-fu is failing me. I've found lots of pulleys online, but most
of them have been single belt, or non-stepped double belt, or 3&4-stepped
pulleys. I need a 2 step pulley with a 5/8" bore with keyway, and a 5
3/4" OD on one step, and a 2 3/8" dia. on the second step. For 1/2"
V-belts. I do plan on checking with the maintenance guy at work, and
calling around to some bearing & belts places locally, but online would be
nice.


find 2 single belt pulleys the size you want, and simply bolt them
together. If you want to get fancy, bore them 1" id, install a common
sleeve and rebore/spline if need be for the proper ID. 2 dowel pins, 4
10-23 philister head cap screws and you have new Stuff


"Not so old as to need virgins to excite him,
nor old enough to have the patience to teach one."

The two-single-pulley option has already been discussed, but I'd like to
add to it: At the farm stores around here, you can buy steel single
pulleys that are intended to be welded on to collars that you buy
separately. The neat thing about them is that there is very little
extra metal on either side of the "Vee". This might be a good way to
get what you want.

One other thought: I don't know the exact sizes, but the atlas 10" and
12" lathes often use a very similar pulley on the drive motor. There is
almost always one or two of them for sale on E-Bay. Simply search:
atlas lathe.

Pete Stanaitis
---------------

Todd Rich wrote:

My google-fu is failing me. I've found lots of pulleys online, but most
of them have been single belt, or non-stepped double belt, or 3&4-stepped
pulleys. I need a 2 step pulley with a 5/8" bore with keyway, and a 5
3/4" OD on one step, and a 2 3/8" dia. on the second step. For 1/2"
V-belts. I do plan on checking with the maintenance guy at work, and
calling around to some bearing & belts places locally, but online would be
nice.

Oh, and sorry but this will be slightly long, feel free to bail out now if
you want.

A couple of months ago, I was asking for some help with a power feed motor
for this Index (now Wells-Index) vertical Model 40 mill. It wasn't
disengaging the start capacitor. I was able to get that fixed by cleaning
the contacts. It ran for a few months without any major problem. Well,
last weekend after taking a pass, it wouldn't start. Turn the switch and
it humms, but doesn't move unless you give it a kick, and then only runs
about that speed. I checked and the start cap looked like it had leaked,
so I figured it was time to replace it. Got one the next day and put it
on. Same problem. Hmm..I popped the cover off and didn't see anything
obvious, so I blew it out and put the cover back on. Turned the switch
after hooking it back up, and 'BAM'! Only a small amount of magic smoke
after I turned the switch off .3 seconds later.

I took it in to the maintenance guy and work as asked him if he could
check it out when he had a few free minutes. He was able to find the
shorted out wire and fix it, but it still had the same problem. He also
said it was so worn out that it probably wasn't worth the time and trouble
to try and fix it.

I found a nice Baldor motor on ebay for about $75 that was the same frame,
only instead of being an open frame motor, it was TEFC! Whoo-hoo, no more
shield to cover the motor. It is this one:
http://www.baldor.com/products/detai...g=40CMB%2DCONT
(watch the wrapped url)

It arrived, and while it was the same basic frame size, it didn't fit the
mounting plate. The holes lined up, but the motor was too far forward.
Oh well, it is a cast iron plate, and hey, I've got a hand drill here..
Well it worked, and after a slight mistake wiring it up to the switch
(no biggie, just it turned on when power was applied), I found the right
wiring instruction online and I got it wired up right. (I have a 6
terminal cylinder switch...the kind that works like this:

Forward Off Reverse
o---o o o o o
| |
o---o o o o o

o---o o o o---o

It needs a jumper between the two terminals on the lower right side to
work for the full forward/off/reverse to work right.)


Oh, and the day I picked up the capacitor, I finally ordered a new cutter.
I'd asked about that here too. I was looking a a proprietary cutter that
ran about $200. One of the suggestions was to check with a rep to see if
I could get a comparible deal. I checked online and while I could find
the cutters, I didn't really find a price, and since I wan't working that
much with it, it fell on the back burner. However, I did mention it to
one CNC forman at work, and he let me know that our Kennametal rep was
going to be in later that day. So, I was able to get a cutter. This one,
with the 3/4" shaft and 1.25" cutting diameter:
http://www.kennametal.com/e-catalog/...d=11F32E686A50

(watch the wrapped url)

With 5 inserts it ran me $203. I can get the inserts for about
$8somethign a pop, which means I'm running about $1 a side. I can live
with that. I'm using OFKT53AFEN4GB inserts. I haven't seen any for sale
on ebay yet, but if I have to buy them from the Rep, I'm not going to shed
any tears. It is so much more free-cutting! I can take 3 times the depth
of cut and the work is cool to the touch when it is done. I wouldn't mind
a better surface finish, but what I'm getting is acceptable. I can
quickly sand the faces before rewelding.

However, I noticed yesterday that it didn't seem to be running at the
speed it should for the way the pulleys were set up. So, I take a closer
look and see that two of the keys have fallen out of the keyways!
Argg... So, I take the motor off and pull the pulleys. The one isn't a
big deal, except the threaded hole is stripped for the setscrew to hold
the key in place on the middle pulley. And the pulley mounted directly on
the motor is cracked about halfway around. I'm not sure how long it is
going to last. Not only is it cracked, but there is a fair amount of
porisity in the aluminum.

Actually all the pulleys are in rough shape: nicked, dented, etc. I'd
like to replace them all. But they are functional enough for now that
I'll wait a few weeks. The bearings and shafts actully look to be in
decent shape.

Anyway, thanks for the help and thanks for putting up with this rambling
missive.
Todd

"Todd Rich" wrote in message
...
My google-fu is failing me. I've found lots of pulleys online, but most
of them have been single belt, or non-stepped double belt, or 3&4-stepped
pulleys. I need a 2 step pulley with a 5/8" bore with keyway, and a 5
3/4" OD on one step, and a 2 3/8" dia. on the second step. For 1/2"
V-belts. I do plan on checking with the maintenance guy at work, and
calling around to some bearing & belts places locally, but online would be
nice.

Oh, and sorry but this will be slightly long, feel free to bail out now if
you want.

A couple of months ago, I was asking for some help with a power feed motor
for this Index (now Wells-Index) vertical Model 40 mill. It wasn't
disengaging the start capacitor. I was able to get that fixed by cleaning
the contacts. It ran for a few months without any major problem. Well,
last weekend after taking a pass, it wouldn't start. Turn the switch and
it humms, but doesn't move unless you give it a kick, and then only runs
about that speed. I checked and the start cap looked like it had leaked,
so I figured it was time to replace it. Got one the next day and put it
on. Same problem. Hmm..I popped the cover off and didn't see anything
obvious, so I blew it out and put the cover back on. Turned the switch
after hooking it back up, and 'BAM'! Only a small amount of magic smoke
after I turned the switch off .3 seconds later.

I took it in to the maintenance guy and work as asked him if he could
check it out when he had a few free minutes. He was able to find the
shorted out wire and fix it, but it still had the same problem. He also
said it was so worn out that it probably wasn't worth the time and trouble
to try and fix it.

I found a nice Baldor motor on ebay for about $75 that was the same frame,
only instead of being an open frame motor, it was TEFC! Whoo-hoo, no more
shield to cover the motor. It is this one:
http://www.baldor.com/products/detai...g=40CMB%2DCONT
(watch the wrapped url)

It arrived, and while it was the same basic frame size, it didn't fit the
mounting plate. The holes lined up, but the motor was too far forward.
Oh well, it is a cast iron plate, and hey, I've got a hand drill here..
Well it worked, and after a slight mistake wiring it up to the switch
(no biggie, just it turned on when power was applied), I found the right
wiring instruction online and I got it wired up right. (I have a 6
terminal cylinder switch...the kind that works like this:

Forward Off Reverse
o---o o o o o
| |
o---o o o o o

o---o o o o---o

It needs a jumper between the two terminals on the lower right side to
work for the full forward/off/reverse to work right.)


Oh, and the day I picked up the capacitor, I finally ordered a new cutter.
I'd asked about that here too. I was looking a a proprietary cutter that
ran about $200. One of the suggestions was to check with a rep to see if
I could get a comparible deal. I checked online and while I could find
the cutters, I didn't really find a price, and since I wan't working that
much with it, it fell on the back burner. However, I did mention it to
one CNC forman at work, and he let me know that our Kennametal rep was
going to be in later that day. So, I was able to get a cutter. This one,
with the 3/4" shaft and 1.25" cutting diameter:
http://www.kennametal.com/e-catalog/...d=11F32E686A50

(watch the wrapped url)

With 5 inserts it ran me $203. I can get the inserts for about
$8somethign a pop, which means I'm running about $1 a side. I can live
with that. I'm using OFKT53AFEN4GB inserts. I haven't seen any for sale
on ebay yet, but if I have to buy them from the Rep, I'm not going to shed
any tears. It is so much more free-cutting! I can take 3 times the depth
of cut and the work is cool to the touch when it is done. I wouldn't mind
a better surface finish, but what I'm getting is acceptable. I can
quickly sand the faces before rewelding.

However, I noticed yesterday that it didn't seem to be running at the
speed it should for the way the pulleys were set up. So, I take a closer
look and see that two of the keys have fallen out of the keyways!
Argg... So, I take the motor off and pull the pulleys. The one isn't a
big deal, except the threaded hole is stripped for the setscrew to hold
the key in place on the middle pulley. And the pulley mounted directly on
the motor is cracked about halfway around. I'm not sure how long it is
going to last. Not only is it cracked, but there is a fair amount of
porisity in the aluminum.

Actually all the pulleys are in rough shape: nicked, dented, etc. I'd
like to replace them all. But they are functional enough for now that
I'll wait a few weeks. The bearings and shafts actully look to be in
decent shape.

Anyway, thanks for the help and thanks for putting up with this rambling
missive.
Todd

I don't think generic two step pulleys are a stock item anywhere. There does
not seem to be any standards even in the 3 and 4 step cone pulleys. You just
take whatever the manufacturer has decided to make.

Don Young

Don Young wrote:
"Todd Rich" wrote in message
...
My google-fu is failing me. I've found lots of pulleys online, but
most of them have been single belt, or non-stepped double belt, or
3&4-stepped pulleys. I need a 2 step pulley with a 5/8" bore with
keyway, and a 5 3/4" OD on one step, and a 2 3/8" dia. on the second
step. For 1/2" V-belts. I do plan on checking with the maintenance
guy at work, and calling around to some bearing & belts places
locally, but online would be nice.

major snippage

Actually all the pulleys are in rough shape: nicked, dented, etc. I'd
like to replace them all. But they are functional enough for
now that I'll wait a few weeks. The bearings and shafts actully
look to be in decent shape.

Anyway, thanks for the help and thanks for putting up with this
rambling missive.
Todd

I don't think generic two step pulleys are a stock item anywhere.
There does not seem to be any standards even in the 3 and 4 step cone
pulleys. You just take whatever the manufacturer has decided to make.

Don Young

Logan Actuator , at www.lathe.com has a two step pulley similar to what
you're looking for . As this is a rather low-demand item , it's not cheap .
Since I'm a cheapskate , I bought a chunk of 6061-T6 and machined one .
The groove specs are available online . If you have to pay for shop time ,
it'd be cheaper to buy one from Scott Logan .
--
Snag
every answer
leads to another
question

Terry Coombs wrote:

Logan Actuator , at www.lathe.com has a two step pulley similar to what
you're looking for . As this is a rather low-demand item , it's not cheap .
Since I'm a cheapskate , I bought a chunk of 6061-T6 and machined one .
The groove specs are available online . If you have to pay for shop time ,
it'd be cheaper to buy one from Scott Logan .

Well, since I got a quote from Wells Index for $150 for the 2 step pulley
I need and $190 for the 3 step, I bought a 2 1/3" single pulley to tide me
over until I can afford it, or make my own. The 3 step one, according to
our tool-room machinist is a lost cause. There are things I can do, but
since it is pot-metal, most of them are delaying actions. The keyway is
already oversize and likely to keep growing.

So, I'm going to just use some epoxy to hold stuff in place for a few
weeks until I can either buy the replacement part, or get somebody to make
it.

But thank you, it does look like the lathe.com part would do quite well.
It would only need to be bored out and a keyway put in.

Well, all in all, I can't complain too much, the mill only ran me $375 in
the first place.

On Tue, 3 Feb 2009 00:42:51 +0000 (UTC), Todd Rich
wrote:

Terry Coombs wrote:

Logan Actuator , at www.lathe.com has a two step pulley similar to what
you're looking for . As this is a rather low-demand item , it's not cheap .
Since I'm a cheapskate , I bought a chunk of 6061-T6 and machined one .
The groove specs are available online . If you have to pay for shop time ,
it'd be cheaper to buy one from Scott Logan .

Well, since I got a quote from Wells Index for $150 for the 2 step pulley
I need and $190 for the 3 step, I bought a 2 1/3" single pulley to tide me
over until I can afford it, or make my own. The 3 step one, according to
our tool-room machinist is a lost cause. There are things I can do, but
since it is pot-metal, most of them are delaying actions. The keyway is
already oversize and likely to keep growing.

put in another keyway at 180 degrees from the original. If its pot
metal, a bit of file work will do it easily enough.

So, I'm going to just use some epoxy to hold stuff in place for a few
weeks until I can either buy the replacement part, or get somebody to make
it.

But thank you, it does look like the lathe.com part would do quite well.
It would only need to be bored out and a keyway put in.

Well, all in all, I can't complain too much, the mill only ran me $375 in
the first place.


Has anyone suggested a couple generic pullies and a VFD?

Gunner


"Not so old as to need virgins to excite him,
nor old enough to have the patience to teach one."

Gunner Asch wrote:
(snip)
put in another keyway at 180 degrees from the original. If its pot
metal, a bit of file work will do it easily enough.

Hmm..

(snip)

Has anyone suggested a couple generic pullies and a VFD?

Now that is a damn fine idea! I've already got a 1 HP inverter rated
motor that I'm not using at the moment. (I was going to make a buffer out
of it, but I can use the motor I'm pulling off of the mill for that.) I'd
have to get 2 more pulleys, but all told, it'll still probably be cheaper
and a lot more flexible setup.

Thank you!

And since I haven't mentioned it, glad to see you pulled through this time
too.

Let me know if you need any close up pictures of the power hammer. I got
a new camera as part of getting employee of the month where I work, and
I'm having fun with it.

Best wishes.

On Tue, 3 Feb 2009 04:31:06 +0000 (UTC), Todd Rich
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
(snip)
put in another keyway at 180 degrees from the original. If its pot
metal, a bit of file work will do it easily enough.

Hmm..

Be sure to check the shaft for keyway wear as well. If it also has wear,
simply turn 90" and install a new key, or dremel the keyway mostly
square, cut a custom key, and match the keyway in the pulley.

I do this all the time with BPs. Particularly on the J2 heads..variable
speed when the client is too damned cheap to have the shaft machined and
new keys put in.

(snip)

Has anyone suggested a couple generic pullies and a VFD?

Now that is a damn fine idea! I've already got a 1 HP inverter rated
motor that I'm not using at the moment. (I was going to make a buffer out
of it, but I can use the motor I'm pulling off of the mill for that.) I'd
have to get 2 more pulleys, but all told, it'll still probably be cheaper
and a lot more flexible setup.

Id suggest a 2:1 pully ratio unless you are going to be turning at 5000
rpm a lot. This is on an Excello mill, right? It has a 2 speed head
(high/low) and a step change pulley set?

Whats wrong with using the existing motor?


Thank you!

And since I haven't mentioned it, glad to see you pulled through this time
too.

Thanks mate.

Let me know if you need any close up pictures of the power hammer. I got
a new camera as part of getting employee of the month where I work, and
I'm having fun with it.

Best wishes.

Post em in the drop box for all to see.

Ive been walking about in my shop the last couple days, rather
aimlessly..boredom is already setting in..the pain isnt very bad..least
managable for me..shrug...but that 10lb weight limit and the chest
popping and cracking whenever I pick up anything heavier than a dust
brush is a bit...spooky.

And Ive got that old Larios Horizontal miller next up on line for
restoration..and the two motor cycles..and the F163 Continental
engine.....sigh....I hate being incapable..physically when Ive got so
damned much to do.

Gunner

"Not so old as to need virgins to excite him,
nor old enough to have the patience to teach one."

"Gunner Asch" wrote in message
...
On Tue, 3 Feb 2009 04:31:06 +0000 (UTC), Todd Rich
wrote:

Gunner Asch wrote:
(snip)
put in another keyway at 180 degrees from the original. If its pot
metal, a bit of file work will do it easily enough.

Hmm..

Be sure to check the shaft for keyway wear as well. If it also has wear,
simply turn 90" and install a new key, or dremel the keyway mostly
square, cut a custom key, and match the keyway in the pulley.

I do this all the time with BPs. Particularly on the J2 heads..variable
speed when the client is too damned cheap to have the shaft machined and
new keys put in.

(snip)

Has anyone suggested a couple generic pullies and a VFD?

Now that is a damn fine idea! I've already got a 1 HP inverter rated
motor that I'm not using at the moment. (I was going to make a buffer out
of it, but I can use the motor I'm pulling off of the mill for that.) I'd
have to get 2 more pulleys, but all told, it'll still probably be cheaper
and a lot more flexible setup.

Id suggest a 2:1 pully ratio unless you are going to be turning at 5000
rpm a lot. This is on an Excello mill, right? It has a 2 speed head
(high/low) and a step change pulley set?

Whats wrong with using the existing motor?


Thank you!

And since I haven't mentioned it, glad to see you pulled through this time
too.

Thanks mate.

Let me know if you need any close up pictures of the power hammer. I got
a new camera as part of getting employee of the month where I work, and
I'm having fun with it.

Best wishes.

Post em in the drop box for all to see.

Ive been walking about in my shop the last couple days, rather
aimlessly..boredom is already setting in..the pain isnt very bad..least
managable for me..shrug...but that 10lb weight limit and the chest
popping and cracking whenever I pick up anything heavier than a dust
brush is a bit...spooky.

And Ive got that old Larios Horizontal miller next up on line for
restoration..and the two motor cycles..and the F163 Continental
engine.....sigh....I hate being incapable..physically when Ive got so
damned much to do.

Gunner

"Not so old as to need virgins to excite him,
nor old enough to have the patience to teach one."

Just try not to catch cold or inhale dust. Sneezing is no fun at all!!

Don Young

Gunner Asch wrote:
On Tue, 3 Feb 2009 04:31:06 +0000 (UTC), Todd Rich
wrote:
(snip)
Now that is a damn fine idea! I've already got a 1 HP inverter rated
motor that I'm not using at the moment. (I was going to make a buffer out
of it, but I can use the motor I'm pulling off of the mill for that.) I'd
have to get 2 more pulleys, but all told, it'll still probably be cheaper
and a lot more flexible setup.

Id suggest a 2:1 pully ratio unless you are going to be turning at 5000
rpm a lot. This is on an Excello mill, right? It has a 2 speed head
(high/low) and a step change pulley set?

Actually, it is a WWII vintage Index Model 40 vertical mill. I think you
have one of them too. I've been taking a few pictures and they are he
http://s166.photobucket.com/albums/u...in3/shop/mill/
And I've currently got a 3:1 ratio on the mill right now. 2 1/3" on the
motor, and about 7" on the middle step. I'll probably replace the other 2
step pulley with a 7" single step when I switch to the VFD. Btw, please
excuse the horrible shape of the mill, it sat for 3 years in a leaky
garage while I was unable to find a drier place for it. Here is how it is
set up as of tonight.
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...ill/shop08.png And it
is sounding a lot better and the cut was much nicer.


Whats wrong with using the existing motor?

Well, nothing specifically, though it did sit in bad conditions as
mentioned above. But it is a 110V 1HP motor, single phase, and I really
haven't found any VFDs that are 1HP, 1ph in and 1ph out. I'm sure they
exist, but I'd need to be pointed to them as my google-fu is failing me.

The other motor I have is 220V 1HP 3ph, rated for inverter usage, and good
up to 5000rpm, with a dataplate speed of 1700rpm. However, while it is a
56 frame, it is a 56C, so I'd need to cut some notches in the web on the
mounting frame to get it to fit. (Current mount he
http://i166.photobucket.com/albums/u...ill/shop03.png )

The two motors are both Marathon. The old one is catalog F104, and the
new one is Y535.
http://www.marathonelectric.com/MMPS...em=056C17F5327
http://www.marathonelectric.com/MMPS...em=056H17T5302

So, one fits nice, but I haven't been able to find a VFD that will run it,
and the other I have no problem finding the VFD to run it, but I'd have to
modify the mount.

(snip)

Let me know if you need any close up pictures of the power hammer. I got
a new camera as part of getting employee of the month where I work, and
I'm having fun with it.

Best wishes.

Post em in the drop box for all to see.

Well, I'll probably use photobucket for the moment as I'm used to it. If
the resolution is too small, on the ones here, let me know. I'm taking
them at 12 megapixels, and then resizing them to under 1MB each for easy
loading. I think I remember you have dialup, and I don't want to overload
your connection.

Ive been walking about in my shop the last couple days, rather
aimlessly..boredom is already setting in..the pain isnt very bad..least
managable for me..shrug...but that 10lb weight limit and the chest
popping and cracking whenever I pick up anything heavier than a dust
brush is a bit...spooky.

I can understand that.

And Ive got that old Larios Horizontal miller next up on line for
restoration..and the two motor cycles..and the F163 Continental
engine.....sigh....I hate being incapable..physically when Ive got so
damned much to do.

Gunner

Best wishes for a speedy and complete recovery.
Todd