My google-fu is failing me. I've found lots of pulleys online, but most
of them have been single belt, or non-stepped double belt, or 3&4-stepped
pulleys. I need a 2 step pulley with a 5/8" bore with keyway, and a 5
3/4" OD on one step, and a 2 3/8" dia. on the second step. For 1/2"
V-belts. I do plan on checking with the maintenance guy at work, and
calling around to some bearing & belts places locally, but online would be
nice.

Oh, and sorry but this will be slightly long, feel free to bail out now if
you want.

A couple of months ago, I was asking for some help with a power feed motor
for this Index (now Wells-Index) vertical Model 40 mill. It wasn't
disengaging the start capacitor. I was able to get that fixed by cleaning
the contacts. It ran for a few months without any major problem. Well,
last weekend after taking a pass, it wouldn't start. Turn the switch and
it humms, but doesn't move unless you give it a kick, and then only runs
about that speed. I checked and the start cap looked like it had leaked,
so I figured it was time to replace it. Got one the next day and put it
on. Same problem. Hmm..I popped the cover off and didn't see anything
obvious, so I blew it out and put the cover back on. Turned the switch
after hooking it back up, and 'BAM'! Only a small amount of magic smoke
after I turned the switch off .3 seconds later.

I took it in to the maintenance guy and work as asked him if he could
check it out when he had a few free minutes. He was able to find the
shorted out wire and fix it, but it still had the same problem. He also
said it was so worn out that it probably wasn't worth the time and trouble
to try and fix it.

I found a nice Baldor motor on ebay for about $75 that was the same frame,
only instead of being an open frame motor, it was TEFC! Whoo-hoo, no more
shield to cover the motor. It is this one:
http://www.baldor.com/products/detai...g=40CMB%2DCONT
(watch the wrapped url)

It arrived, and while it was the same basic frame size, it didn't fit the
mounting plate. The holes lined up, but the motor was too far forward.
Oh well, it is a cast iron plate, and hey, I've got a hand drill here..
Well it worked, and after a slight mistake wiring it up to the switch
(no biggie, just it turned on when power was applied), I found the right
wiring instruction online and I got it wired up right. (I have a 6
terminal cylinder switch...the kind that works like this:

Forward Off Reverse
o---o o o o o
| |
o---o o o o o

o---o o o o---o

It needs a jumper between the two terminals on the lower right side to
work for the full forward/off/reverse to work right.)


Oh, and the day I picked up the capacitor, I finally ordered a new cutter.
I'd asked about that here too. I was looking a a proprietary cutter that
ran about $200. One of the suggestions was to check with a rep to see if
I could get a comparible deal. I checked online and while I could find
the cutters, I didn't really find a price, and since I wan't working that
much with it, it fell on the back burner. However, I did mention it to
one CNC forman at work, and he let me know that our Kennametal rep was
going to be in later that day. So, I was able to get a cutter. This one,
with the 3/4" shaft and 1.25" cutting diameter:
http://www.kennametal.com/e-catalog/...d=11F32E686A50

(watch the wrapped url)

With 5 inserts it ran me $203. I can get the inserts for about
$8somethign a pop, which means I'm running about $1 a side. I can live
with that. I'm using OFKT53AFEN4GB inserts. I haven't seen any for sale
on ebay yet, but if I have to buy them from the Rep, I'm not going to shed
any tears. It is so much more free-cutting! I can take 3 times the depth
of cut and the work is cool to the touch when it is done. I wouldn't mind
a better surface finish, but what I'm getting is acceptable. I can
quickly sand the faces before rewelding.

However, I noticed yesterday that it didn't seem to be running at the
speed it should for the way the pulleys were set up. So, I take a closer
look and see that two of the keys have fallen out of the keyways!
Argg... So, I take the motor off and pull the pulleys. The one isn't a
big deal, except the threaded hole is stripped for the setscrew to hold
the key in place on the middle pulley. And the pulley mounted directly on
the motor is cracked about halfway around. I'm not sure how long it is
going to last. Not only is it cracked, but there is a fair amount of
porisity in the aluminum.

Actually all the pulleys are in rough shape: nicked, dented, etc. I'd
like to replace them all. But they are functional enough for now that
I'll wait a few weeks. The bearings and shafts actully look to be in
decent shape.

Anyway, thanks for the help and thanks for putting up with this rambling
missive.
Todd