Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

Bob,

Why tighten the door? Is it really loose? Do you see a halo along the
hinge edge of the door?
My first thought is to add a surface mount gasket to the door frame and
adjust it till it seals the gap.

Dave M.

On Feb 2, 9:34*am, "David L. Martel" wrote:
Bob,

* *Why tighten the door? Is it really loose? Do you see a halo along the
hinge edge of the door?
* *My first thought is to add a surface mount gasket to the door frame and
adjust it till it seals the gap.

Dave M.

No, halo along hinge edge, just along latch edge extending to top and
bottom.

From the experiment of simply pulling on the door to close it more
tightly and having the halo extinguish suggests that an adjustment
that accomplishes closing the door more tightly will suffice, and is
actually more preferable to me.

See how much the door moves. Remove the strike, and put it a bit closer to
the door stop. Re-anchor the strike with galv deck screws, 1 1/4 or 1 5/8
inch usualy works for screws.

Might have to move the strike back to the original holes in the spring when
humidity comes back up.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

On Sat, 2 Feb 2013 08:53:06 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Feb 2, 9:34Â*am, "David L. Martel" wrote:
Bob,

Â* Â*Why tighten the door? Is it really loose? Do you see a halo along the
hinge edge of the door?
Â* Â*My first thought is to add a surface mount gasket to the door frame and
adjust it till it seals the gap.

Dave M.

No, halo along hinge edge, just along latch edge extending to top and
bottom.

From the experiment of simply pulling on the door to close it more
tightly and having the halo extinguish suggests that an adjustment
that accomplishes closing the door more tightly will suffice, and is
actually more preferable to me.

Moving the latch plate can get you in trouble. The weatherstripping
has compressed. Just get a piece of stick-on weatherstripping.
Thin enough so the door still latches easily.

On Feb 2, 12:26*pm, Vic Smith wrote:
On Sat, 2 Feb 2013 08:53:06 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy





wrote:
On Feb 2, 9:34*am, "David L. Martel" wrote:
Bob,

* *Why tighten the door? Is it really loose? Do you see a halo along the
hinge edge of the door?
* *My first thought is to add a surface mount gasket to the door frame and
adjust it till it seals the gap.

Dave M.

No, halo along hinge edge, just along latch edge extending to top and
bottom.

From the experiment of simply pulling on the door to close it more
tightly and having the halo extinguish suggests that an adjustment
that accomplishes closing the door more tightly will suffice, and is
actually more preferable to me.

Moving the latch plate can get you in trouble. *The weatherstripping
has compressed. *Just get a piece of stick-on weatherstripping.
Thin enough so the door still latches easily.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Above sounds right to me. It would seem a lot easier solution
to replace the old, shrunk, weather stripping, which sounds like
the real problem, rather than screw around with the door strike plate.

Robert Macy wrote:
On Feb 2, 9:34 am, "David L. Martel" wrote:
Bob,

Why tighten the door? Is it really loose? Do you see a halo along the
hinge edge of the door?
My first thought is to add a surface mount gasket to the door frame and
adjust it till it seals the gap.

Dave M.

No, halo along hinge edge, just along latch edge extending to top and
bottom.

From the experiment of simply pulling on the door to close it more
tightly and having the halo extinguish suggests that an adjustment
that accomplishes closing the door more tightly will suffice, and is
actually more preferable to me.

Hi,
The first response to your question was good one. I don't know how old
your house/garage is. Weather striping needs redone. They don't last
forever. You can adjust door knob latch to satisfy your idea but how
many times can you do that over time? Every year I make sure all the
ext. door weather strips are in good shape as a routine winterizing chore.

wrote:
On Feb 2, 12:26 pm, Vic Smith wrote:
On Sat, 2 Feb 2013 08:53:06 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy





wrote:
On Feb 2, 9:34 am, "David L. Martel" wrote:
Bob,

Why tighten the door? Is it really loose? Do you see a halo along the
hinge edge of the door?
My first thought is to add a surface mount gasket to the door frame and
adjust it till it seals the gap.

Dave M.

No, halo along hinge edge, just along latch edge extending to top and
bottom.

From the experiment of simply pulling on the door to close it more
tightly and having the halo extinguish suggests that an adjustment
that accomplishes closing the door more tightly will suffice, and is
actually more preferable to me.

Moving the latch plate can get you in trouble. The weatherstripping
has compressed. Just get a piece of stick-on weatherstripping.
Thin enough so the door still latches easily.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Above sounds right to me. It would seem a lot easier solution
to replace the old, shrunk, weather stripping, which sounds like
the real problem, rather than screw around with the door strike plate.

Hi,
Some folks are LAZY buggers, you know, always looking for quick
temporary solution. My idea of fixing problem is doing it first time
right. That is called quality work.

Robert Macy wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?


Take off the strike plate. If you are lucky, it will have a little "tongue"
at the front, bent inward. If you bend the tongue up slightly, the bolt
will be forced farther back into the strike hole, thereby closing the door
more tightly.

If the plate doesn't have a tongue, you would have to (1) move the strike
plate or, (2) use thicker weather striping or, (3) rehang the door so that
it sits farther in. The only problem with #1 is that it doesn't have to
move much but you *DO* need new screw holes; the old ones can be filled with
toothpicks and glue allowing you to drill new ones farther in once the glue
dries.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Sat, 2 Feb 2013 07:38:36 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
wrote:

Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

The strike plate has a small tab, that has a small slot in it. Use a
small screwdriver and bend the tab closer to the latch bolt. This
will tighten the door a bit and may be all you need to close the gap.

I would start there.

On Saturday, February 2, 2013 7:38:36 AM UTC-8, Robert Macy wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage

now lets light in around it.



A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could

not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the

gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,

simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the

garage light so the halo disappears.



Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear

to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the

door.



What's a good way to fix this problem?



Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the

door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

Was the door frame painted since you installed it?
The weather stripping on a door is NOT supposed to be painted.
If it is it will become stiff and can change it’s shape.
Most painters don’t know or don’t give a damn.
The ideal way to handle the situation would be to replace the weather stripping if possible.
Do you have the paperwork or manufacturer’s name for the door?
You can try beefing-up the weather stripping but the adhesive on those never last.
You can also install one of these:

http://imagethumbnails.milo.com/024/...68_trimmed.jpg

Under your existing strike plate which would make it stronger and help you move it too but what are you going to do as Tony Hwang above says happens.

On Feb 2, 9:38*am, Robert Macy wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

Fill the striker plate holes with wood and glue, replace screws so
that the striker plate is tighter, done.

On Feb 2, 6:20*pm, "
wrote:
On Feb 2, 9:38*am, Robert Macy wrote:





Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

Fill the striker plate holes with wood and glue, replace screws so
that the striker plate is tighter, done.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Umm, isn't there usually some chisling or routing involved
to relocate that striker plate? They don't sit on top of the
wood....

Usually. But, if the door is this loose, might
not matter. When a door is very loose,
sometimes I'll surface mount the strike.
More latch or bolt engagment that way.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

Umm, isn't there usually some chisling or routing involved
to relocate that striker plate? They don't sit on top of the
wood....

On Feb 2, 10:14*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
See how much the door moves. Remove the strike, and put it a bit closer to
the door stop. Re-anchor the strike with galv deck screws, 1 1/4 or 1 5/8
inch usualy works for screws.

Might have to move the strike back to the original holes in the spring when
humidity comes back up.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

That was my first thought too. Simply MOVE the strike to 'snug' up the
door. But the strike is mounted with counter sink screw heads which
already have holes. Moving a screw hole 1/16 inch, much less than its
diameter, doesn't strike me [pardon the multiple use of the word] as
an easy task.

I thought about wood epoxy to fill everything up, then carefully
reseat the strike plate by carefully drilling very small diameter
pilot holes for the strike plate screws. Doing this would be a major
task, from experience with wood epoxy fillers, may not be successful,
and during the curing process, the door will be left unsecured - not
going to be allowed by the financial controller.

Moisture I did not think of. We're in AZ so not a lot of humidity.
Plus, in our 'rainy' season. In other areas of the house, I noticed
some wood swelling, improving their fits, and this door is still
slightly open, so hunidity probably is not the factor on whether this
door fits well.

I feel it's just mechanical wear on the mating parts. The latch is
worn, developed 'wiggle', and the strike plate has been worn off a
bit. All adding up to not closing the door well.

It's too bad that exterior doors can't be made with a rolling latch
mechanism like you findon an EMC Chamber, eh? Close the door, then
torque it down tight with leveraging rollers. Now THAT would seal out
stuff from the outside.

On Feb 3, 7:36*am, "
wrote:
On Feb 2, 6:20*pm, "
wrote:





On Feb 2, 9:38*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

Fill the striker plate holes with wood and glue, replace screws so
that the striker plate is tighter, done.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Umm, isn't there usually some chisling or routing involved
to relocate that striker plate? *They don't sit on top of the
wood....

THAT was the other reason I didn't want to move the plate, forgot all
about that.

On Feb 2, 11:01*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Robert Macy wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Take off the strike plate. *If you are lucky, it will have a little "tongue"
at the front, bent inward. *If you bend the tongue up slightly, the bolt
will be forced farther back into the strike hole, thereby closing the door
more tightly.

If the plate doesn't have a tongue, you would have to (1) move the strike
plate or, (2) use thicker weather striping or, (3) rehang the door so that
it sits farther in. *The only problem with #1 is that it doesn't have to
move much but you *DO* need new screw holes; the old ones can be filled with
toothpicks and glue allowing you to drill new ones farther in once the glue
dries.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? *Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out...http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Will do that and let people know. I find it hard to believe that this
new construction home has alreay got shrunken weather stripping, but
it is possible. If there's no tab, I could possibly shim that side of
the plate.

On Feb 2, 11:20*am, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 2 Feb 2013 07:38:36 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy





wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

The strike plate has a small tab, that has a small slot in it. *Use a
small screwdriver and bend the tab closer to the latch bolt. *This
will tighten the door a bit and may *be all you need to close the gap.

I would start there.

Thanks, will look and let people know.

I didn't see any such tab on first cursory exam, but then again,
wasn't looking for it per se. Amazing what one can find when they
actually LOOK for it.

On Sun, 3 Feb 2013 07:29:19 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Feb 2, 10:14*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
See how much the door moves. Remove the strike, and put it a bit closer to
the door stop. Re-anchor the strike with galv deck screws, 1 1/4 or 1 5/8
inch usualy works for screws.

Might have to move the strike back to the original holes in the spring when
humidity comes back up.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

That was my first thought too. Simply MOVE the strike to 'snug' up the
door. But the strike is mounted with counter sink screw heads which
already have holes. Moving a screw hole 1/16 inch, much less than its
diameter, doesn't strike me [pardon the multiple use of the word] as
an easy task.

It's very easy. Go to your local BORG and buy a screw hole repair
kit. It's essentially a small tapered dowel and a "reamer", with a
similar taper. Ream out the old screw hole. Glue in repair insert,
and redrill hole where you need it. It takes maybe three minutes.

I thought about wood epoxy to fill everything up, then carefully
reseat the strike plate by carefully drilling very small diameter
pilot holes for the strike plate screws. Doing this would be a major
task, from experience with wood epoxy fillers, may not be successful,
and during the curing process, the door will be left unsecured - not
going to be allowed by the financial controller.

See above.

Moisture I did not think of. We're in AZ so not a lot of humidity.
Plus, in our 'rainy' season. In other areas of the house, I noticed
some wood swelling, improving their fits, and this door is still
slightly open, so hunidity probably is not the factor on whether this
door fits well.

I feel it's just mechanical wear on the mating parts. The latch is
worn, developed 'wiggle', and the strike plate has been worn off a
bit. All adding up to not closing the door well.

Then simply replace it.

It's too bad that exterior doors can't be made with a rolling latch
mechanism like you findon an EMC Chamber, eh? Close the door, then
torque it down tight with leveraging rollers. Now THAT would seal out
stuff from the outside.

Have you tried pricing an EMC chamber?

Robert Macy wrote:
On Feb 2, 11:01 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Robert Macy wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night -
could not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From
examing the gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably
shrunk Hwoever, simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close'
door blacks out the garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not
appear to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to
'tighte' the door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Take off the strike plate. If you are lucky, it will have a little
"tongue" at the front, bent inward. If you bend the tongue up
slightly, the bolt will be forced farther back into the strike hole,
thereby closing the door more tightly.

If the plate doesn't have a tongue, you would have to (1) move the
strike plate or, (2) use thicker weather striping or, (3) rehang the
door so that it sits farther in. The only problem with #1 is that it
doesn't have to move much but you *DO* need new screw holes; the old
ones can be filled with toothpicks and glue allowing you to drill
new ones farther in once the glue dries.

Will do that and let people know. I find it hard to believe that this
new construction home has alreay got shrunken weather stripping, but
it is possible. If there's no tab, I could possibly shim that side of
the plate.

Or you could just go to a store and buy a strike plate that does have one.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Sun, 3 Feb 2013 07:36:22 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Feb 2, 11:01*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Robert Macy wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Take off the strike plate. *If you are lucky, it will have a little "tongue"
at the front, bent inward. *If you bend the tongue up slightly, the bolt
will be forced farther back into the strike hole, thereby closing the door
more tightly.

If the plate doesn't have a tongue, you would have to (1) move the strike
plate or, (2) use thicker weather striping or, (3) rehang the door so that
it sits farther in. *The only problem with #1 is that it doesn't have to
move much but you *DO* need new screw holes; the old ones can be filled with
toothpicks and glue allowing you to drill new ones farther in once the glue
dries.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? *Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out...http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Will do that and let people know. I find it hard to believe that this
new construction home has alreay got shrunken weather stripping, but
it is possible. If there's no tab, I could possibly shim that side of
the plate.

Like most stuff these days, the weathersripping is probably some sort of
plastic. Plastic dont last long. One reason I refuse to use plastic
siding and windows. Plastics are made from oil.... then we complain
that gas prices are high.... and worse of all, everything made of
plastic will be in a landfill in a few years.
What ever happened to metals and real wood?

Another thing, most new homes are expected to last 30 years at most.
They are built from garbage such as particle board and styrofoam, then
covered with plastic. I wouldn't want a new home! Give me a home built
before the 1970s. That's when they were still made solid.

Simple solution.... replace the weatherstripping!!!

That's why I suggested galv deck screws. They can self drill very near to
the original holes.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...
On Feb 2, 10:14 am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
See how much the door moves. Remove the strike, and put it a bit closer to
the door stop. Re-anchor the strike with galv deck screws, 1 1/4 or 1 5/8
inch usualy works for screws.

Might have to move the strike back to the original holes in the spring
when
humidity comes back up.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

That was my first thought too. Simply MOVE the strike to 'snug' up the
door. But the strike is mounted with counter sink screw heads which
already have holes. Moving a screw hole 1/16 inch, much less than its
diameter, doesn't strike me [pardon the multiple use of the word] as
an easy task.

I thought about wood epoxy to fill everything up, then carefully
reseat the strike plate by carefully drilling very small diameter
pilot holes for the strike plate screws. Doing this would be a major
task, from experience with wood epoxy fillers, may not be successful,
and during the curing process, the door will be left unsecured - not
going to be allowed by the financial controller.

Moisture I did not think of. We're in AZ so not a lot of humidity.
Plus, in our 'rainy' season. In other areas of the house, I noticed
some wood swelling, improving their fits, and this door is still
slightly open, so hunidity probably is not the factor on whether this
door fits well.

I feel it's just mechanical wear on the mating parts. The latch is
worn, developed 'wiggle', and the strike plate has been worn off a
bit. All adding up to not closing the door well.

It's too bad that exterior doors can't be made with a rolling latch
mechanism like you findon an EMC Chamber, eh? Close the door, then
torque it down tight with leveraging rollers. Now THAT would seal out
stuff from the outside.

On Feb 2, 8:38*am, Robert Macy wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

I don't know how to inform everone at once with this news server,
so....simply reply to myself may get the information out to all you
kind contributers:

The strike plate does NOT appear worn. It is mounted firmly in the
sill.And, does have a small metal tab that could be bent outwords to
catch the bolt [or whatever its name] forcing the door tighter.
However, that tab appears to be for a different function than to
provide an 'adjustment' It appearsto be part of the stable mounting
for the strike plate.

However, I did notice on the bolt's mating side there appears to be a
strip of nylon-type material. That would quiet the door, provide self
lubrication, BUT! it appears to be worn down a bit. Not sure it's worn
down enough to justify the gap I see, but possibly.

So *if* I glue a strip of nylon along the top of the bolt, could be
done?

I'd still rather add metal to the strike plate instead. Especially
since it has that tab to give a large flat surface as a place for the
shim metal to mount on top of.

Robert Macy wrote:

The strike plate does NOT appear worn. It is mounted firmly in the
sill.And, does have a small metal tab that could be bent outwords to
catch the bolt [or whatever its name] forcing the door tighter.

However, that tab appears to be for a different function than to
provide an 'adjustment' It appearsto be part of the stable mounting
for the strike plate.

The function of the strike plate is to push the bolt in to clear the jamb
until such time as it can go *SPRONG* and seat itself in the hole.

However, I did notice on the bolt's mating side there appears to be a
strip of nylon-type material. That would quiet the door, provide self
lubrication, BUT! it appears to be worn down a bit. Not sure it's worn
down enough to justify the gap I see, but possibly.

So *if* I glue a strip of nylon along the top of the bolt, could be
done?

I'd still rather add metal to the strike plate instead. Especially
since it has that tab to give a large flat surface as a place for the
shim metal to mount on top of.

Make it as hard and complicated as you want. Me, I'd just bend the
furshlugginer tab, that's what it is for. And I would have done it two days
ago,

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Mon, 4 Feb 2013 07:52:14 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
wrote:


The strike plate does NOT appear worn. It is mounted firmly in the
sill.And, does have a small metal tab that could be bent outwords to
catch the bolt [or whatever its name] forcing the door tighter.
However, that tab appears to be for a different function than to
provide an 'adjustment' It appearsto be part of the stable mounting
for the strike plate.

No it is for an adjustment, as I mentioned in my first reply. It has
nothing to do with "stable mounting".

You didn't even try, did you?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHQZULwRNmk

On Feb 4, 1:08*pm, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 4 Feb 2013 07:52:14 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy

wrote:

The strike plate does NOT appear worn. It is mounted firmly in the
sill.And, does have a small metal tab that could be bent outwords to
catch the bolt [or whatever its name] forcing the door tighter.
However, that tab appears to be for a different function than to
provide an 'adjustment' It appearsto be part of the stable mounting
for the strike plate.

No it is for an adjustment, as I mentioned in my first reply. It has
nothing to do with "stable mounting".

You didn't even try, did you?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHQZULwRNmk

......no......

Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

What's in the video?

Robert Macy wrote:

Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

What's in the video?

Why didn't you just look?

Several minutes of a guy showing how to do a dirt simple thing; namely, bend
the tab in a strike plate. I suspect it is intended mostly for those who
have not yet figured out how to wipe their own ass.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Wed, 6 Feb 2013 09:00:15 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Robert Macy wrote:

Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

What's in the video?

Why didn't you just look?

Several minutes of a guy showing how to do a dirt simple thing; namely, bend
the tab in a strike plate. I suspect it is intended mostly for those who
have not yet figured out how to wipe their own ass.

And who was "bashing" him?

sigh

Oren wrote:
On Wed, 6 Feb 2013 09:00:15 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Robert Macy wrote:

Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head
and shoulders for NOT trying.

What's in the video?

Why didn't you just look?

Several minutes of a guy showing how to do a dirt simple thing;
namely, bend the tab in a strike plate. I suspect it is intended
mostly for those who have not yet figured out how to wipe their own
ass.

And who was "bashing" him?

sigh

Well, certainy not me

I just try to gently guide people into taking some sort of action to solve
their crisis. OK, sometimes it takes a nudge, especially when OP has been
told repeatedly by both thee and me what to do and how to do it. In this
case the nudge was a bit firmer than normal

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Feb 6, 9:00*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Robert Macy wrote:
Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

What's in the video?

Why didn't you just look?

Several minutes of a guy showing how to do a dirt simple thing; namely, bend
the tab in a strike plate. *I suspect it is intended mostly for those who
have not yet figured out how to wipe their own ass.

--

dadiOH

Also known as "presenting to the least common denominator".

On Tuesday, February 5, 2013 8:48:46 AM UTC-5, Robert Macy wrote:
Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

Good. It's about time.

Maybe you can provide some insight into this: Why do people always come up with the most complicated, contrived, nonsensical, physics-bending, expensive solutions to simple problems?

You've got an extremely simple problem that has two simple inexpensive solutions:

1. Bend the effing tab.
2. Replace the effing weatherstripping.

You've spent more time analyzing and coming up wacky reasons why this happened and wacky ways to fix it than it would've taken to implement either of these common, accepted, solutions to a common problem.

For some reason it starts with a simple leaky door seal and the solution escalates and escalates and escalates until you're knocking down the house with a bulldozer and building new! All over a simple leaky door seal!

Please, can you explain your thought process and how you come to the conclusion that your convoluted solutions are better than the simple solutions offered by this group?

On Feb 7, 2:20*pm, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2013 8:48:46 AM UTC-5, Robert Macy wrote:
Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

Good. It's about time.

Maybe you can provide some insight into this: Why do people always come up with the most complicated, contrived, nonsensical, physics-bending, expensive solutions to simple problems?

You've got an extremely simple problem that has two simple inexpensive solutions:

1. Bend the effing tab.
2. Replace the effing weatherstripping.

You've spent more time analyzing and coming up wacky reasons why this happened and wacky ways to fix it than it would've taken to implement either of these common, accepted, solutions to a common problem.

For some reason it starts with a simple leaky door seal and the solution escalates and escalates and escalates until you're knocking down the house with a bulldozer and building new! All over a simple leaky door seal!

....and to save some money, the old door will be retained and installed
in the new house.


Please, can you explain your thought process and how you come to the conclusion that your convoluted solutions are better than the simple solutions offered by this group?

On Thu, 7 Feb 2013 09:47:11 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Oren wrote:
On Wed, 6 Feb 2013 09:00:15 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Robert Macy wrote:

Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head
and shoulders for NOT trying.

What's in the video?

Why didn't you just look?

Several minutes of a guy showing how to do a dirt simple thing;
namely, bend the tab in a strike plate. I suspect it is intended
mostly for those who have not yet figured out how to wipe their own
ass.

And who was "bashing" him?

sigh

Well, certainy not me

I just try to gently guide people into taking some sort of action to solve
their crisis. OK, sometimes it takes a nudge, especially when OP has been
told repeatedly by both thee and me what to do and how to do it. In this
case the nudge was a bit firmer than normal

Agree. When he had his stucco / patch / paint threads, he insisted on
painting stucco with a brush. Then was disturbed about how it came
out. Would not post a picture so we could see what was really going
on. I like to help folks when I can, but detest when they will not
interact about what is presented. He came back later about the paint
in another thread, so I stayed out of it.

Damn bean counters :-\

On Thu, 7 Feb 2013 11:30:14 -0800 (PST), DerbyDad03
wrote:

On Feb 7, 2:20*pm, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2013 8:48:46 AM UTC-5, Robert Macy wrote:
Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

Good. It's about time.

Maybe you can provide some insight into this: Why do people always come up with the most complicated, contrived, nonsensical, physics-bending, expensive solutions to simple problems?

You've got an extremely simple problem that has two simple inexpensive solutions:

1. Bend the effing tab.
2. Replace the effing weatherstripping.

You've spent more time analyzing and coming up wacky reasons why this happened and wacky ways to fix it than it would've taken to implement either of these common, accepted, solutions to a common problem.

For some reason it starts with a simple leaky door seal and the solution escalates and escalates and escalates until you're knocking down the house with a bulldozer and building new! All over a simple leaky door seal!

...and to save some money, the old door will be retained and installed
in the new house.

ROTFLMAO! wipes tears from eyes

On Feb 7, 12:20*pm, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2013 8:48:46 AM UTC-5, Robert Macy wrote:
Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

Good. It's about time.

Maybe you can provide some insight into this: Why do people always come up with the most complicated, contrived, nonsensical, physics-bending, expensive solutions to simple problems?

You've got an extremely simple problem that has two simple inexpensive solutions:

1. Bend the effing tab.
2. Replace the effing weatherstripping.

You've spent more time analyzing and coming up wacky reasons why this happened and wacky ways to fix it than it would've taken to implement either of these common, accepted, solutions to a common problem.

For some reason it starts with a simple leaky door seal and the solution escalates and escalates and escalates until you're knocking down the house with a bulldozer and building new! All over a simple leaky door seal!

Please, can you explain your thought process and how you come to the conclusion that your convoluted solutions are better than the simple solutions offered by this group?

Thought process was based upon having too many horrible experiences
where in solving a problem, I moved from Point A to Point B, but
destroyed Point A and therefore could not move back after Point B
displayed 'unforseen' problems, or worse, failed for some reason.

I have had horrible experiences putting in weather stripping. Just
does not work out well for some reason, so I 'preferred' to keep the
original weather stripping that came from the factory with the door,
rather than muck around with it. Also, never found anything that
looked similar at HD [only store that I have real access to, and
Walmart doesn't count]

For some reason I envisioned bending the tab causing the cheap metal
that is supplied in parts these days to simply crumble off, breaking
away as I try to bend it. Thus, I was VERY reluctant to embark on a
solution that so detroyed Point A, there would be NO way back. As I
said, the tab looked like it was in there for another prupose, AND if
I had bent the tab, the tab would only apply pressure to the bolt at
the end of the bolt, near the end of that soft nylon strip I saw on
the bolt. Again, the tab would quickly wear into that plastic - so
again, I was very reluctant to try a solution that may have unforeseen
problems later AND Point A had been destroyed when I implemented the
solution. Plus, with the bent tab only applying pressure at the tip of
the bolt means the door could close, appear to be closed, but the bolt
has only moved out to be touching the tab, because the door was NOT
pulled shut enabling the bolt to catch the bent tab. That means
everytime I use the door I must manually pull it closed to make sure
the bolt engages the tighter closing bent tab. Again reluctant to
pursue Point B when Point B looked like it had a new, different
failure/problem.

I know the explanation of my thought process is wordy, but this is my
mental process. But, you asked and deserve an answer, and the help
here is excellent, perhaps others have wondered why, so I took time to
explain. So, people understand that my brain goes through a series of
what if? what if? what if? All this flashes through my brain when
pursuing a solution to a problem. Similar to the motto, "Measure
twice. Cut once.", which probably is more defensible than my long
series of envisioning consequences of an action..

On Feb 7, 12:51*pm, Oren wrote:
...snip....
Agree. *When he had his stucco / patch / paint threads, he insisted on
painting stucco with a brush. Then was disturbed about how it came
out. Would not post a picture so we could see what was really going
on. I like to help folks when I can, but detest when they will not
interact about what is presented. He came back later about the paint
in another thread, so I stayed out of it.

Damn bean counters :-\

Oren, I think I recall, you had excellent comments.

This stucco has tiny little spikes, which would be a nightmare to roll
paint onto and get coverage, plus, I've fought roller overlap marks
like I'm fighting the brush overlap marks. Changing to roller painting
seemed like changing one problem for another and still not get the
effect I wanted.

I did not refuse to post images, but simply had no way to post images.
If you can, I will gladly send them to you, approximately 35kB to
200kB sizes, not those 4MB humongous photos. which you could either
view for yourself or post for others.

Robert Macy wrote:
On Feb 7, 12:20 pm, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2013 8:48:46 AM UTC-5, Robert Macy wrote:
Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head
and shoulders for NOT trying.

Good. It's about time.

Maybe you can provide some insight into this: Why do people always
come up with the most complicated, contrived, nonsensical,
physics-bending, expensive solutions to simple problems?

You've got an extremely simple problem that has two simple
inexpensive solutions:

1. Bend the effing tab.
2. Replace the effing weatherstripping.

You've spent more time analyzing and coming up wacky reasons why
this happened and wacky ways to fix it than it would've taken to
implement either of these common, accepted, solutions to a common
problem.

For some reason it starts with a simple leaky door seal and the
solution escalates and escalates and escalates until you're knocking
down the house with a bulldozer and building new! All over a simple
leaky door seal!

Please, can you explain your thought process and how you come to the
conclusion that your convoluted solutions are better than the simple
solutions offered by this group?

Thought process was based upon having too many horrible experiences
where in solving a problem, I moved from Point A to Point B, but
destroyed Point A and therefore could not move back after Point B
displayed 'unforseen' problems, or worse, failed for some reason.

I have had horrible experiences putting in weather stripping. Just
does not work out well for some reason, so I 'preferred' to keep the
original weather stripping that came from the factory with the door,
rather than muck around with it. Also, never found anything that
looked similar at HD [only store that I have real access to, and
Walmart doesn't count]

For some reason I envisioned bending the tab causing the cheap metal
that is supplied in parts these days to simply crumble off, breaking
away as I try to bend it. Thus, I was VERY reluctant to embark on a
solution that so detroyed Point A, there would be NO way back. As I
said, the tab looked like it was in there for another prupose, AND if
I had bent the tab, the tab would only apply pressure to the bolt at
the end of the bolt, near the end of that soft nylon strip I saw on
the bolt. Again, the tab would quickly wear into that plastic - so
again, I was very reluctant to try a solution that may have unforeseen
problems later AND Point A had been destroyed when I implemented the
solution. Plus, with the bent tab only applying pressure at the tip of
the bolt means the door could close, appear to be closed, but the bolt
has only moved out to be touching the tab, because the door was NOT
pulled shut enabling the bolt to catch the bent tab. That means
everytime I use the door I must manually pull it closed to make sure
the bolt engages the tighter closing bent tab. Again reluctant to
pursue Point B when Point B looked like it had a new, different
failure/problem.

I know the explanation of my thought process is wordy, but this is my
mental process. But, you asked and deserve an answer, and the help
here is excellent, perhaps others have wondered why, so I took time to
explain. So, people understand that my brain goes through a series of
what if? what if? what if? All this flashes through my brain when
pursuing a solution to a problem. Similar to the motto, "Measure
twice. Cut once.", which probably is more defensible than my long
series of envisioning consequences of an action..


There is nothing wrong with considering potential consequences of an action.
It's a good thing, actually, as it helps people determine which of several
possible solutions will be easiest and/or work best.

The problem comes when people give too much weight to or exaggerate the
possible negative consequences. Consider the tab...

Most people have bent a piece of steel and know that it doesn't break
without a lot of back and forth bending. But suppose it did break. So
what? You would be no worse off than you were originally relative to the
door closing. And strikes are a common item, easily replaceable, available
at any hardware store.

As to the purpose of the tab, what could it be *other* than adjustment?
Security against intruders? How? A more solid latching? Many strike
plates have no tab. For that matter, you don't even need a strike plate to
securely close the door (but you would have to first turn the knob to
retract the bolt); the main purpose of the strike plate lies in the portion
on the outside of the door; the part bent toward the jamb...it gradually
engages the bolt as the door is closed and pushes it in.

Regarding the nylon on the bolt, I have not seen such. The bolts on my
doors have a small, steel, sort of half round rod along the flat side of the
bolt. It moves with the bolt but can be pushed in independently of the
bolt. I thought it might have something to do with the locking of the door
but apparently not. I do not know its purpose.
-------------------
I now understand its purpose. I took about 60 seconds to see what it does
(you could have done the same). Normally, it either does not enter the
strike at all or very slightly when the door is normally closed. If one
pulls the door harder, it will enter a bit more. Consequently, its purpose
is to provide a "finagle factor". If the door bolt and strike are perfectly
aligned, it does nothing; if the bolt is a bit loose in the strike, it can
enter the strike slightly thus removing rattle from the closed door.

In your case, it gives you another way to tighten the door; namely, by
filing a taper on the outside edge; being tapered, it will more fully enter
the strike plate. (Note that neither that nor bending the tab will tighten
the door if you now have to exert much manual force to do so. All either
will do is let the bolt or rod enter more fully and the force from that is
no more than that exerted by the spring pushing on the bolt). I wouldn't
worry about it being nylon either. Nylon is quite resilient and wears well
too; even if it does wear, that wear would just let it penetrate more deeply
into the strike. The only thing about it that remains surprising to me is
the fact that one of my doors - all exterior - does not have it even though
all the locks were purchased at the same time and are (supposedly) the same
model.
________________

Regarding the weather strip, much of the factory applied has a semi-rigid,
barbed portion that fits into a slot on the jambs. Sometimes they also put
in a couple of staples or small nails but lacking those it just pulls out.
Handy when you want to paint. Putting it back can be a bit harder since the
insert part is only semi-rigid; for stubborn sections, I lay a piece of 2x4
on it and whack the 2x4 with a hammer. Goes right in.

If you browse via Google, you can probably find an exact or almost exact
replacement. All you really need is a hollow vinyl shape close to the
proper dimensions or a bit over. It should be hollow (or closed cell foam)
for the insulation properties of trapped air and so that it will compress a
bit if necessary. You don't want it to compress a lot as it can then
prevent the closing of the door; compression also diminishes the
effectiveness of the insulation.

Even though you probably can't find an exact replacement at HD/Lowes, they
will have something that can be used. If you need one with the barb, they
have one shaped sort of like this: ¬/ The lazy "L" is semi-rigid with the
horizontal leg barbed, the "slash" is a thin piece of foam wrapped with
vinyl. If you don't need a barb, all manner of self adhesive ones are
available, both in "D" and "P" profiles. Flat foam too but the profiles are
better.
________________

Robert, I don't mean any of this post as a condemnation of the way you
think. A lot of people - me included - have difficulty seeing the forest
because of the trees; i.e., they get bogged down in the details. A fertile
mind sees many ways of arriving at the same place or accomplishing a desired
goal. Which of those ways is best? Which will lead to disaster? In most
cases, the answer to both questions is: none. There is almost always a
better way of doing something and nothing any of us has ever done has led to
the end of the world. Realizing that, the trick is to do SOMETHING. The
difference between success and failure is action.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

dadiOH wrote:

The only thing about it that remains surprising to me is the fact
that one of my doors - all exterior - does not have it even though
all the locks were purchased at the same time and are (supposedly)
the same model.

OK, I *DO* have interior doors. I should have written, "...one of my
exterior doors does not have it..."

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Robert Macy wrote:

...snip....

I did not refuse to post images, but simply had no way to post images.
If you can, I will gladly send them to you, approximately 35kB to
200kB sizes, not those 4MB humongous photos. which you could either
view for yourself or post for others.

There are numerous photo hosting sites that allow you upload your jpg
images for free and then provide a direct link that you can post back here.
Many also includes img links so that you can embed photos in posts at
forums that allow that (not a.h.r).

I use PhotoBucket, but there are many others, some better, some worse.

For example, here is a link to an image that I used for a question I posted
in this group a while back.

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...0182735166.jpg

On Feb 9, 2:02*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
Robert Macy wrote:
...snip....
I did not refuse to post images, but simply had no way to post images.
If you can, I will gladly send them to you, approximately 35kB to
200kB sizes, not those 4MB humongous photos. which you could either
view for yourself or post for others.

There are numerous photo hosting sites that allow you upload your jpg
images for free and then provide a direct link that you can post back here.
Many also includes img links so that you can embed photos in posts at
forums that allow that (not a.h.r).

I use PhotoBucket, but there are many others, some better, some worse.

For example, here is a link to an image that I used for a question I posted
in this group a while back.

http://i440.photobucket.com/albums/q...tobucket-39505..

That URL took me to what appeared to be a promised photo, spent 3
minutes filling in info about signing in etc for photobucket, but even
after 10 minutes no picture appeared. After visiting websites like
this I have to purge my system of superflous unseen files and delete a
lot of spyware type cookies. So, I don't like to visit these website
unless there's a real need. Since I have so many problems just viewing
an image, I hate to think what would happen if I actually signed up to
post an image.

I know more detail than you wanted, but that is why I have so much
difficulty finding a way to post an image. As I said, gladly send to
someone whose an ongoing contributor to such sites, let them post for
me, and then help would of course be better quality. Or, is there an
image posting website that limits intrusion into your system while
posting and viewing? Or, is such a 'benevolent' website out of the
question today?