Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

Bob,

Why tighten the door? Is it really loose? Do you see a halo along the
hinge edge of the door?
My first thought is to add a surface mount gasket to the door frame and
adjust it till it seals the gap.

Dave M.

On Feb 2, 9:34*am, "David L. Martel" wrote:
Bob,

* *Why tighten the door? Is it really loose? Do you see a halo along the
hinge edge of the door?
* *My first thought is to add a surface mount gasket to the door frame and
adjust it till it seals the gap.

Dave M.

No, halo along hinge edge, just along latch edge extending to top and
bottom.

From the experiment of simply pulling on the door to close it more
tightly and having the halo extinguish suggests that an adjustment
that accomplishes closing the door more tightly will suffice, and is
actually more preferable to me.

On Sat, 2 Feb 2013 08:53:06 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Feb 2, 9:34Â*am, "David L. Martel" wrote:
Bob,

Â* Â*Why tighten the door? Is it really loose? Do you see a halo along the
hinge edge of the door?
Â* Â*My first thought is to add a surface mount gasket to the door frame and
adjust it till it seals the gap.

Dave M.

No, halo along hinge edge, just along latch edge extending to top and
bottom.

From the experiment of simply pulling on the door to close it more
tightly and having the halo extinguish suggests that an adjustment
that accomplishes closing the door more tightly will suffice, and is
actually more preferable to me.

Moving the latch plate can get you in trouble. The weatherstripping
has compressed. Just get a piece of stick-on weatherstripping.
Thin enough so the door still latches easily.

On Feb 2, 12:26*pm, Vic Smith wrote:
On Sat, 2 Feb 2013 08:53:06 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy





wrote:
On Feb 2, 9:34*am, "David L. Martel" wrote:
Bob,

* *Why tighten the door? Is it really loose? Do you see a halo along the
hinge edge of the door?
* *My first thought is to add a surface mount gasket to the door frame and
adjust it till it seals the gap.

Dave M.

No, halo along hinge edge, just along latch edge extending to top and
bottom.

From the experiment of simply pulling on the door to close it more
tightly and having the halo extinguish suggests that an adjustment
that accomplishes closing the door more tightly will suffice, and is
actually more preferable to me.

Moving the latch plate can get you in trouble. *The weatherstripping
has compressed. *Just get a piece of stick-on weatherstripping.
Thin enough so the door still latches easily.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Above sounds right to me. It would seem a lot easier solution
to replace the old, shrunk, weather stripping, which sounds like
the real problem, rather than screw around with the door strike plate.

wrote:
On Feb 2, 12:26 pm, Vic Smith wrote:
On Sat, 2 Feb 2013 08:53:06 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy





wrote:
On Feb 2, 9:34 am, "David L. Martel" wrote:
Bob,

Why tighten the door? Is it really loose? Do you see a halo along the
hinge edge of the door?
My first thought is to add a surface mount gasket to the door frame and
adjust it till it seals the gap.

Dave M.

No, halo along hinge edge, just along latch edge extending to top and
bottom.

From the experiment of simply pulling on the door to close it more
tightly and having the halo extinguish suggests that an adjustment
that accomplishes closing the door more tightly will suffice, and is
actually more preferable to me.

Moving the latch plate can get you in trouble. The weatherstripping
has compressed. Just get a piece of stick-on weatherstripping.
Thin enough so the door still latches easily.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Above sounds right to me. It would seem a lot easier solution
to replace the old, shrunk, weather stripping, which sounds like
the real problem, rather than screw around with the door strike plate.

Hi,
Some folks are LAZY buggers, you know, always looking for quick
temporary solution. My idea of fixing problem is doing it first time
right. That is called quality work.

Robert Macy wrote:
On Feb 2, 9:34 am, "David L. Martel" wrote:
Bob,

Why tighten the door? Is it really loose? Do you see a halo along the
hinge edge of the door?
My first thought is to add a surface mount gasket to the door frame and
adjust it till it seals the gap.

Dave M.

No, halo along hinge edge, just along latch edge extending to top and
bottom.

From the experiment of simply pulling on the door to close it more
tightly and having the halo extinguish suggests that an adjustment
that accomplishes closing the door more tightly will suffice, and is
actually more preferable to me.

Hi,
The first response to your question was good one. I don't know how old
your house/garage is. Weather striping needs redone. They don't last
forever. You can adjust door knob latch to satisfy your idea but how
many times can you do that over time? Every year I make sure all the
ext. door weather strips are in good shape as a routine winterizing chore.

See how much the door moves. Remove the strike, and put it a bit closer to
the door stop. Re-anchor the strike with galv deck screws, 1 1/4 or 1 5/8
inch usualy works for screws.

Might have to move the strike back to the original holes in the spring when
humidity comes back up.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

On Feb 2, 10:14*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
See how much the door moves. Remove the strike, and put it a bit closer to
the door stop. Re-anchor the strike with galv deck screws, 1 1/4 or 1 5/8
inch usualy works for screws.

Might have to move the strike back to the original holes in the spring when
humidity comes back up.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

That was my first thought too. Simply MOVE the strike to 'snug' up the
door. But the strike is mounted with counter sink screw heads which
already have holes. Moving a screw hole 1/16 inch, much less than its
diameter, doesn't strike me [pardon the multiple use of the word] as
an easy task.

I thought about wood epoxy to fill everything up, then carefully
reseat the strike plate by carefully drilling very small diameter
pilot holes for the strike plate screws. Doing this would be a major
task, from experience with wood epoxy fillers, may not be successful,
and during the curing process, the door will be left unsecured - not
going to be allowed by the financial controller.

Moisture I did not think of. We're in AZ so not a lot of humidity.
Plus, in our 'rainy' season. In other areas of the house, I noticed
some wood swelling, improving their fits, and this door is still
slightly open, so hunidity probably is not the factor on whether this
door fits well.

I feel it's just mechanical wear on the mating parts. The latch is
worn, developed 'wiggle', and the strike plate has been worn off a
bit. All adding up to not closing the door well.

It's too bad that exterior doors can't be made with a rolling latch
mechanism like you findon an EMC Chamber, eh? Close the door, then
torque it down tight with leveraging rollers. Now THAT would seal out
stuff from the outside.

On Sun, 3 Feb 2013 07:29:19 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Feb 2, 10:14*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
See how much the door moves. Remove the strike, and put it a bit closer to
the door stop. Re-anchor the strike with galv deck screws, 1 1/4 or 1 5/8
inch usualy works for screws.

Might have to move the strike back to the original holes in the spring when
humidity comes back up.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

That was my first thought too. Simply MOVE the strike to 'snug' up the
door. But the strike is mounted with counter sink screw heads which
already have holes. Moving a screw hole 1/16 inch, much less than its
diameter, doesn't strike me [pardon the multiple use of the word] as
an easy task.

It's very easy. Go to your local BORG and buy a screw hole repair
kit. It's essentially a small tapered dowel and a "reamer", with a
similar taper. Ream out the old screw hole. Glue in repair insert,
and redrill hole where you need it. It takes maybe three minutes.

I thought about wood epoxy to fill everything up, then carefully
reseat the strike plate by carefully drilling very small diameter
pilot holes for the strike plate screws. Doing this would be a major
task, from experience with wood epoxy fillers, may not be successful,
and during the curing process, the door will be left unsecured - not
going to be allowed by the financial controller.

See above.

Moisture I did not think of. We're in AZ so not a lot of humidity.
Plus, in our 'rainy' season. In other areas of the house, I noticed
some wood swelling, improving their fits, and this door is still
slightly open, so hunidity probably is not the factor on whether this
door fits well.

I feel it's just mechanical wear on the mating parts. The latch is
worn, developed 'wiggle', and the strike plate has been worn off a
bit. All adding up to not closing the door well.

Then simply replace it.

It's too bad that exterior doors can't be made with a rolling latch
mechanism like you findon an EMC Chamber, eh? Close the door, then
torque it down tight with leveraging rollers. Now THAT would seal out
stuff from the outside.

Have you tried pricing an EMC chamber?

That's why I suggested galv deck screws. They can self drill very near to
the original holes.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Robert Macy" wrote in message
...
On Feb 2, 10:14 am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
See how much the door moves. Remove the strike, and put it a bit closer to
the door stop. Re-anchor the strike with galv deck screws, 1 1/4 or 1 5/8
inch usualy works for screws.

Might have to move the strike back to the original holes in the spring
when
humidity comes back up.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

That was my first thought too. Simply MOVE the strike to 'snug' up the
door. But the strike is mounted with counter sink screw heads which
already have holes. Moving a screw hole 1/16 inch, much less than its
diameter, doesn't strike me [pardon the multiple use of the word] as
an easy task.

I thought about wood epoxy to fill everything up, then carefully
reseat the strike plate by carefully drilling very small diameter
pilot holes for the strike plate screws. Doing this would be a major
task, from experience with wood epoxy fillers, may not be successful,
and during the curing process, the door will be left unsecured - not
going to be allowed by the financial controller.

Moisture I did not think of. We're in AZ so not a lot of humidity.
Plus, in our 'rainy' season. In other areas of the house, I noticed
some wood swelling, improving their fits, and this door is still
slightly open, so hunidity probably is not the factor on whether this
door fits well.

I feel it's just mechanical wear on the mating parts. The latch is
worn, developed 'wiggle', and the strike plate has been worn off a
bit. All adding up to not closing the door well.

It's too bad that exterior doors can't be made with a rolling latch
mechanism like you findon an EMC Chamber, eh? Close the door, then
torque it down tight with leveraging rollers. Now THAT would seal out
stuff from the outside.

Robert Macy wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?


Take off the strike plate. If you are lucky, it will have a little "tongue"
at the front, bent inward. If you bend the tongue up slightly, the bolt
will be forced farther back into the strike hole, thereby closing the door
more tightly.

If the plate doesn't have a tongue, you would have to (1) move the strike
plate or, (2) use thicker weather striping or, (3) rehang the door so that
it sits farther in. The only problem with #1 is that it doesn't have to
move much but you *DO* need new screw holes; the old ones can be filled with
toothpicks and glue allowing you to drill new ones farther in once the glue
dries.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Feb 2, 11:01*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Robert Macy wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Take off the strike plate. *If you are lucky, it will have a little "tongue"
at the front, bent inward. *If you bend the tongue up slightly, the bolt
will be forced farther back into the strike hole, thereby closing the door
more tightly.

If the plate doesn't have a tongue, you would have to (1) move the strike
plate or, (2) use thicker weather striping or, (3) rehang the door so that
it sits farther in. *The only problem with #1 is that it doesn't have to
move much but you *DO* need new screw holes; the old ones can be filled with
toothpicks and glue allowing you to drill new ones farther in once the glue
dries.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? *Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out...http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Will do that and let people know. I find it hard to believe that this
new construction home has alreay got shrunken weather stripping, but
it is possible. If there's no tab, I could possibly shim that side of
the plate.

Robert Macy wrote:
On Feb 2, 11:01 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Robert Macy wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night -
could not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From
examing the gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably
shrunk Hwoever, simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close'
door blacks out the garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not
appear to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to
'tighte' the door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Take off the strike plate. If you are lucky, it will have a little
"tongue" at the front, bent inward. If you bend the tongue up
slightly, the bolt will be forced farther back into the strike hole,
thereby closing the door more tightly.

If the plate doesn't have a tongue, you would have to (1) move the
strike plate or, (2) use thicker weather striping or, (3) rehang the
door so that it sits farther in. The only problem with #1 is that it
doesn't have to move much but you *DO* need new screw holes; the old
ones can be filled with toothpicks and glue allowing you to drill
new ones farther in once the glue dries.

Will do that and let people know. I find it hard to believe that this
new construction home has alreay got shrunken weather stripping, but
it is possible. If there's no tab, I could possibly shim that side of
the plate.

Or you could just go to a store and buy a strike plate that does have one.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Sun, 3 Feb 2013 07:36:22 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Feb 2, 11:01*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Robert Macy wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Take off the strike plate. *If you are lucky, it will have a little "tongue"
at the front, bent inward. *If you bend the tongue up slightly, the bolt
will be forced farther back into the strike hole, thereby closing the door
more tightly.

If the plate doesn't have a tongue, you would have to (1) move the strike
plate or, (2) use thicker weather striping or, (3) rehang the door so that
it sits farther in. *The only problem with #1 is that it doesn't have to
move much but you *DO* need new screw holes; the old ones can be filled with
toothpicks and glue allowing you to drill new ones farther in once the glue
dries.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? *Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out...http://www.floridaloghouse.net

Will do that and let people know. I find it hard to believe that this
new construction home has alreay got shrunken weather stripping, but
it is possible. If there's no tab, I could possibly shim that side of
the plate.

Like most stuff these days, the weathersripping is probably some sort of
plastic. Plastic dont last long. One reason I refuse to use plastic
siding and windows. Plastics are made from oil.... then we complain
that gas prices are high.... and worse of all, everything made of
plastic will be in a landfill in a few years.
What ever happened to metals and real wood?

Another thing, most new homes are expected to last 30 years at most.
They are built from garbage such as particle board and styrofoam, then
covered with plastic. I wouldn't want a new home! Give me a home built
before the 1970s. That's when they were still made solid.

Simple solution.... replace the weatherstripping!!!

On Sat, 2 Feb 2013 07:38:36 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
wrote:

Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

The strike plate has a small tab, that has a small slot in it. Use a
small screwdriver and bend the tab closer to the latch bolt. This
will tighten the door a bit and may be all you need to close the gap.

I would start there.

On Feb 2, 11:20*am, Oren wrote:
On Sat, 2 Feb 2013 07:38:36 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy





wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

The strike plate has a small tab, that has a small slot in it. *Use a
small screwdriver and bend the tab closer to the latch bolt. *This
will tighten the door a bit and may *be all you need to close the gap.

I would start there.

Thanks, will look and let people know.

I didn't see any such tab on first cursory exam, but then again,
wasn't looking for it per se. Amazing what one can find when they
actually LOOK for it.

On Saturday, February 2, 2013 7:38:36 AM UTC-8, Robert Macy wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage

now lets light in around it.



A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could

not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the

gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,

simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the

garage light so the halo disappears.



Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear

to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the

door.



What's a good way to fix this problem?



Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the

door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

Was the door frame painted since you installed it?
The weather stripping on a door is NOT supposed to be painted.
If it is it will become stiff and can change it’s shape.
Most painters don’t know or don’t give a damn.
The ideal way to handle the situation would be to replace the weather stripping if possible.
Do you have the paperwork or manufacturer’s name for the door?
You can try beefing-up the weather stripping but the adhesive on those never last.
You can also install one of these:

http://imagethumbnails.milo.com/024/...68_trimmed.jpg

Under your existing strike plate which would make it stronger and help you move it too but what are you going to do as Tony Hwang above says happens.

On Feb 2, 9:38*am, Robert Macy wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

Fill the striker plate holes with wood and glue, replace screws so
that the striker plate is tighter, done.

On Feb 2, 6:20*pm, "
wrote:
On Feb 2, 9:38*am, Robert Macy wrote:





Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

Fill the striker plate holes with wood and glue, replace screws so
that the striker plate is tighter, done.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Umm, isn't there usually some chisling or routing involved
to relocate that striker plate? They don't sit on top of the
wood....

Usually. But, if the door is this loose, might
not matter. When a door is very loose,
sometimes I'll surface mount the strike.
More latch or bolt engagment that way.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

Umm, isn't there usually some chisling or routing involved
to relocate that striker plate? They don't sit on top of the
wood....

On Feb 3, 7:36*am, "
wrote:
On Feb 2, 6:20*pm, "
wrote:





On Feb 2, 9:38*am, Robert Macy wrote:

Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

Fill the striker plate holes with wood and glue, replace screws so
that the striker plate is tighter, done.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Umm, isn't there usually some chisling or routing involved
to relocate that striker plate? *They don't sit on top of the
wood....

THAT was the other reason I didn't want to move the plate, forgot all
about that.

On Feb 2, 8:38*am, Robert Macy wrote:
Over time something has changed here. The closed door to the garage
now lets light in around it.

A couple of years ago, if I left the garage light on at night - could
not tell, but now, there's a halo around the door. From examing the
gasketing, it appears to still be ok, not appreciably shrunk Hwoever,
simply pulling on the door handle to 'more close' door blacks out the
garage light so the halo disappears.

Examining the metal part mounted in the door frame, it does not appear
to be something that can easily be slightly moved in, to 'tighte' the
door.

What's a good way to fix this problem?

Shim the strike plate, or shim the back of the ?? metal part onn the
door itself? Or, adjust some mounting somewhere?

I don't know how to inform everone at once with this news server,
so....simply reply to myself may get the information out to all you
kind contributers:

The strike plate does NOT appear worn. It is mounted firmly in the
sill.And, does have a small metal tab that could be bent outwords to
catch the bolt [or whatever its name] forcing the door tighter.
However, that tab appears to be for a different function than to
provide an 'adjustment' It appearsto be part of the stable mounting
for the strike plate.

However, I did notice on the bolt's mating side there appears to be a
strip of nylon-type material. That would quiet the door, provide self
lubrication, BUT! it appears to be worn down a bit. Not sure it's worn
down enough to justify the gap I see, but possibly.

So *if* I glue a strip of nylon along the top of the bolt, could be
done?

I'd still rather add metal to the strike plate instead. Especially
since it has that tab to give a large flat surface as a place for the
shim metal to mount on top of.

Robert Macy wrote:

The strike plate does NOT appear worn. It is mounted firmly in the
sill.And, does have a small metal tab that could be bent outwords to
catch the bolt [or whatever its name] forcing the door tighter.

However, that tab appears to be for a different function than to
provide an 'adjustment' It appearsto be part of the stable mounting
for the strike plate.

The function of the strike plate is to push the bolt in to clear the jamb
until such time as it can go *SPRONG* and seat itself in the hole.

However, I did notice on the bolt's mating side there appears to be a
strip of nylon-type material. That would quiet the door, provide self
lubrication, BUT! it appears to be worn down a bit. Not sure it's worn
down enough to justify the gap I see, but possibly.

So *if* I glue a strip of nylon along the top of the bolt, could be
done?

I'd still rather add metal to the strike plate instead. Especially
since it has that tab to give a large flat surface as a place for the
shim metal to mount on top of.

Make it as hard and complicated as you want. Me, I'd just bend the
furshlugginer tab, that's what it is for. And I would have done it two days
ago,

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Mon, 4 Feb 2013 07:52:14 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
wrote:


The strike plate does NOT appear worn. It is mounted firmly in the
sill.And, does have a small metal tab that could be bent outwords to
catch the bolt [or whatever its name] forcing the door tighter.
However, that tab appears to be for a different function than to
provide an 'adjustment' It appearsto be part of the stable mounting
for the strike plate.

No it is for an adjustment, as I mentioned in my first reply. It has
nothing to do with "stable mounting".

You didn't even try, did you?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHQZULwRNmk

On Feb 4, 1:08*pm, Oren wrote:
On Mon, 4 Feb 2013 07:52:14 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy

wrote:

The strike plate does NOT appear worn. It is mounted firmly in the
sill.And, does have a small metal tab that could be bent outwords to
catch the bolt [or whatever its name] forcing the door tighter.
However, that tab appears to be for a different function than to
provide an 'adjustment' It appearsto be part of the stable mounting
for the strike plate.

No it is for an adjustment, as I mentioned in my first reply. It has
nothing to do with "stable mounting".

You didn't even try, did you?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JHQZULwRNmk

......no......

Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

What's in the video?

Robert Macy wrote:

Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

What's in the video?

Why didn't you just look?

Several minutes of a guy showing how to do a dirt simple thing; namely, bend
the tab in a strike plate. I suspect it is intended mostly for those who
have not yet figured out how to wipe their own ass.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Taxes out of hand? Maybe just ready for a change?
Check it out... http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Wed, 6 Feb 2013 09:00:15 -0500, "dadiOH"
wrote:

Robert Macy wrote:

Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

What's in the video?

Why didn't you just look?

Several minutes of a guy showing how to do a dirt simple thing; namely, bend
the tab in a strike plate. I suspect it is intended mostly for those who
have not yet figured out how to wipe their own ass.

And who was "bashing" him?

sigh

On Feb 6, 9:00*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
Robert Macy wrote:
Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

What's in the video?

Why didn't you just look?

Several minutes of a guy showing how to do a dirt simple thing; namely, bend
the tab in a strike plate. *I suspect it is intended mostly for those who
have not yet figured out how to wipe their own ass.

--

dadiOH

Also known as "presenting to the least common denominator".

On Tuesday, February 5, 2013 8:48:46 AM UTC-5, Robert Macy wrote:
Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

Good. It's about time.

Maybe you can provide some insight into this: Why do people always come up with the most complicated, contrived, nonsensical, physics-bending, expensive solutions to simple problems?

You've got an extremely simple problem that has two simple inexpensive solutions:

1. Bend the effing tab.
2. Replace the effing weatherstripping.

You've spent more time analyzing and coming up wacky reasons why this happened and wacky ways to fix it than it would've taken to implement either of these common, accepted, solutions to a common problem.

For some reason it starts with a simple leaky door seal and the solution escalates and escalates and escalates until you're knocking down the house with a bulldozer and building new! All over a simple leaky door seal!

Please, can you explain your thought process and how you come to the conclusion that your convoluted solutions are better than the simple solutions offered by this group?

On Feb 7, 2:20*pm, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2013 8:48:46 AM UTC-5, Robert Macy wrote:
Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

Good. It's about time.

Maybe you can provide some insight into this: Why do people always come up with the most complicated, contrived, nonsensical, physics-bending, expensive solutions to simple problems?

You've got an extremely simple problem that has two simple inexpensive solutions:

1. Bend the effing tab.
2. Replace the effing weatherstripping.

You've spent more time analyzing and coming up wacky reasons why this happened and wacky ways to fix it than it would've taken to implement either of these common, accepted, solutions to a common problem.

For some reason it starts with a simple leaky door seal and the solution escalates and escalates and escalates until you're knocking down the house with a bulldozer and building new! All over a simple leaky door seal!

....and to save some money, the old door will be retained and installed
in the new house.


Please, can you explain your thought process and how you come to the conclusion that your convoluted solutions are better than the simple solutions offered by this group?

On Feb 7, 12:20*pm, wrote:
On Tuesday, February 5, 2013 8:48:46 AM UTC-5, Robert Macy wrote:
Will try now that EVERYBODY seems to be bashing me about the head and
shoulders for NOT trying.

Good. It's about time.

Maybe you can provide some insight into this: Why do people always come up with the most complicated, contrived, nonsensical, physics-bending, expensive solutions to simple problems?

You've got an extremely simple problem that has two simple inexpensive solutions:

1. Bend the effing tab.
2. Replace the effing weatherstripping.

You've spent more time analyzing and coming up wacky reasons why this happened and wacky ways to fix it than it would've taken to implement either of these common, accepted, solutions to a common problem.

For some reason it starts with a simple leaky door seal and the solution escalates and escalates and escalates until you're knocking down the house with a bulldozer and building new! All over a simple leaky door seal!

Please, can you explain your thought process and how you come to the conclusion that your convoluted solutions are better than the simple solutions offered by this group?

Thought process was based upon having too many horrible experiences
where in solving a problem, I moved from Point A to Point B, but
destroyed Point A and therefore could not move back after Point B
displayed 'unforseen' problems, or worse, failed for some reason.

I have had horrible experiences putting in weather stripping. Just
does not work out well for some reason, so I 'preferred' to keep the
original weather stripping that came from the factory with the door,
rather than muck around with it. Also, never found anything that
looked similar at HD [only store that I have real access to, and
Walmart doesn't count]

For some reason I envisioned bending the tab causing the cheap metal
that is supplied in parts these days to simply crumble off, breaking
away as I try to bend it. Thus, I was VERY reluctant to embark on a
solution that so detroyed Point A, there would be NO way back. As I
said, the tab looked like it was in there for another prupose, AND if
I had bent the tab, the tab would only apply pressure to the bolt at
the end of the bolt, near the end of that soft nylon strip I saw on
the bolt. Again, the tab would quickly wear into that plastic - so
again, I was very reluctant to try a solution that may have unforeseen
problems later AND Point A had been destroyed when I implemented the
solution. Plus, with the bent tab only applying pressure at the tip of
the bolt means the door could close, appear to be closed, but the bolt
has only moved out to be touching the tab, because the door was NOT
pulled shut enabling the bolt to catch the bent tab. That means
everytime I use the door I must manually pull it closed to make sure
the bolt engages the tighter closing bent tab. Again reluctant to
pursue Point B when Point B looked like it had a new, different
failure/problem.

I know the explanation of my thought process is wordy, but this is my
mental process. But, you asked and deserve an answer, and the help
here is excellent, perhaps others have wondered why, so I took time to
explain. So, people understand that my brain goes through a series of
what if? what if? what if? All this flashes through my brain when
pursuing a solution to a problem. Similar to the motto, "Measure
twice. Cut once.", which probably is more defensible than my long
series of envisioning consequences of an action..