On Feb 2, 10:14*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
See how much the door moves. Remove the strike, and put it a bit closer to
the door stop. Re-anchor the strike with galv deck screws, 1 1/4 or 1 5/8
inch usualy works for screws.

Might have to move the strike back to the original holes in the spring when
humidity comes back up.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

That was my first thought too. Simply MOVE the strike to 'snug' up the
door. But the strike is mounted with counter sink screw heads which
already have holes. Moving a screw hole 1/16 inch, much less than its
diameter, doesn't strike me [pardon the multiple use of the word] as
an easy task.

I thought about wood epoxy to fill everything up, then carefully
reseat the strike plate by carefully drilling very small diameter
pilot holes for the strike plate screws. Doing this would be a major
task, from experience with wood epoxy fillers, may not be successful,
and during the curing process, the door will be left unsecured - not
going to be allowed by the financial controller.

Moisture I did not think of. We're in AZ so not a lot of humidity.
Plus, in our 'rainy' season. In other areas of the house, I noticed
some wood swelling, improving their fits, and this door is still
slightly open, so hunidity probably is not the factor on whether this
door fits well.

I feel it's just mechanical wear on the mating parts. The latch is
worn, developed 'wiggle', and the strike plate has been worn off a
bit. All adding up to not closing the door well.

It's too bad that exterior doors can't be made with a rolling latch
mechanism like you findon an EMC Chamber, eh? Close the door, then
torque it down tight with leveraging rollers. Now THAT would seal out
stuff from the outside.