In trying to apply paint to a 'sandy' type stucco finish:

Home previously spray painted with what appears to be extremely
watered Dunn Edwards flat Interior/Exterior so bleached by the sun
that there are tones lighter huge spotting, especially around cracking
stucco. [done in 2008]

So surface has essentially been primed. I asked the group and got a
good recommendation for readily available Behr Masonry Stucco paint
from Home Depot. The paint is thick, doesn't separate even days after
shake mixing, and covers with one coat.

I'm doing this myself, dont' want a lot of prep and mess and cleanup,
so deemed to use a brush and just do sections at a time with any
overlaps at corners/junctions, so won't show. I can do the painting in
shade, in evening, so sun won't accelerate drying before curing.

First problem is that it appeared that one gallon did around 80 sq
ft !!! I tried cutting back, but can't even begin to get paint down
into the 'holes' in the stucco. Have taken to poking at the wall with
the bristles of the brush which almost works.

Second problem is that the paint dries faster than I can move on.
Meaning one can get a 'gummy' overlap between small sections as you
move the ladder and scaffolding. Ok, I attributed that to very dry
base surface. When done with this first coat, stood back and looked at
it. Four days later, it still looked like I had used different colored
paint sources, and the surface had a 'blotched' appearance. Looked
like a quilt up on the wall consisting of square little 'islands' for
the different sections I had done as I had moved along.

Ok, first coat was a disaster so let's try it again. This time I added
2 oz of Floetrol to the half gallon of paint I was planning to use
[recommended 4 oz per gallon]. Half gallon should do 80 sq ft on a
second coat, right? WRONG! This time I moved as fast as possible. Set
the ladder start at the top and come down to the stone facade as fast
as possible, then move over and repeat until done. As I worked I
completely filled EVERY hole I could see and verified that the surface
had a nice wet sheen everywhere. This time I was moving so fast that
even the overlaps were successful - they still had their wet sheen
into the previously painted areas.

I can live with using excessive paint [this is NOT color coverage, but
liquid coverage] But I cannot live with the end result: As you stand
and look at the wall you see very obviously well defined 'strips' down
the wall. All the same color, but looks like sheets of wallpaper
overlapping at their edges around 4 inches!

It's been over 24 hours now with time to properly cure and dry and
even the sun has hit the wall now, yet the effect is still there!

I can't paint my house and have these ugly patterns left all over it
when I'm done. What am I doing wrong here?

Again spray paint is not an option [I have a $2,000 airless sprayer in
storage I don't have access to since I own one I'm not allowed to buy
another one]; rollers might be an option but the cleanup after doing
each section will be monumental, plus not sure the roller can get
paint down into all the nooks and crannies anyway. So, a brush is the
most convenient way that I'd like to stay with. So, why has this
turned into a fiasco? Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?
What am I doing wrong here?

On Nov 1, 9:10*am, Robert Macy wrote:
In trying to apply paint to a 'sandy' type stucco finish:

Home previously spray painted with what appears to be extremely
watered Dunn Edwards flat Interior/Exterior so bleached by the sun
that there are tones lighter huge spotting, especially around cracking
stucco. [done in 2008]

So surface has essentially been primed. I asked the group and got a
good recommendation for readily available Behr Masonry Stucco paint
from Home Depot. *The paint is thick, doesn't separate even days after
shake mixing, and covers with one coat.

I'm doing this myself, dont' want a lot of prep and mess and cleanup,
so deemed to use a brush and just do sections at a time with any
overlaps at corners/junctions, so won't show. I can do the painting in
shade, in evening, so sun won't accelerate drying before curing.

First problem is that it appeared that one gallon did around 80 sq
ft !!! *I tried cutting back, but can't even begin to get paint down
into the 'holes' in the stucco. Have taken to poking at the wall with
the bristles of the brush which almost works.

Second problem is that the paint dries faster than I can move on.
Meaning one can get a 'gummy' overlap between small sections as you
move the ladder and scaffolding. *Ok, I attributed that to very dry
base surface. When done with this first coat, stood back and looked at
it. Four days later, it still looked like I had used different colored
paint sources, and the surface had a 'blotched' appearance. Looked
like a quilt up on the wall consisting of square little 'islands' for
the different sections I had done as I had moved along.

Ok, first coat was a disaster so let's try it again. This time I added
2 oz of Floetrol to the half gallon of paint I was planning to use
[recommended 4 oz per gallon]. *Half gallon should do 80 sq ft on a
second coat, right? WRONG! *This time I moved as fast as possible. Set
the ladder start at the top and come down to the stone facade as fast
as possible, then move over and repeat until done. *As I worked I
completely filled EVERY hole I could see and verified that the surface
had a nice wet sheen everywhere. This time I was moving so fast that
even the overlaps were successful - they still had their wet sheen
into the previously painted areas.

I can live with using excessive paint [this is NOT color coverage, but
liquid coverage] But I cannot live with the end result: As you stand
and look at the wall you see very obviously well defined 'strips' down
the wall. All the same color, but looks like sheets of wallpaper
overlapping at their edges around 4 inches!

It's been over 24 hours now with time to properly cure and dry and
even the sun has hit the wall now, yet the effect is still there!

I can't paint my house and have these ugly patterns left all over it
when I'm done. What am I doing wrong here?

Again spray paint is not an option [I have a $2,000 airless sprayer in
storage I don't have access to since I own one I'm not allowed to buy
another one]; rollers might be an option but the *cleanup after doing
each section will be monumental, plus not sure the roller can get
paint down into all the nooks and crannies anyway. So, a brush is the
most convenient way that I'd like to stay with. So, why has this
turned into a fiasco? Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?
What am I doing wrong here?

Have you thought of spraying the walls with a hose before you paint to
have a damp base?

RENT a paint sprayer......

Robert Macy wrote:

- HELP! what's going wrong here? -

Sorry - I don't know what's going on here.

You weren't more specific in your subject line, so I can't help you.

But congratulations.

You win today's "Bonehead Subject Line of the Day" award!

On Nov 1, 10:10*am, Robert Macy wrote:
In trying to apply paint to a 'sandy' type stucco finish:

Home previously spray painted with what appears to be extremely
watered Dunn Edwards flat Interior/Exterior so bleached by the sun
that there are tones lighter

So surface has essentially been primed.

Ha!

So, why has this
turned into a fiasco?

You don't know what you're doing.

Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?

Dirt, probably, but paint does not flow into cracks, crevices and
holes the way one might imagine, you have to force it in by back-
brushing even if you spray it.

What am I doing wrong here?

Operating too far beyond your area of expertise.
-----

- gpsman

On Nov 1, 7:33*am, bob haller wrote:
RENT a paint sprayer......

sigh, don't want to do it ALL on one day, want to just do it
leisurely.

And from my experience with my sprayer, prep is incredible and drift
and overspray and ...

Got a lot of glass, frame and structures to contend with.

Only single story 4,000 sq foot home, with lots of architectural
features, so there are lots of 'break' points

On Nov 1, 7:22*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
...snip...
Have you thought of spraying the walls with a hose before you paint to
have a damp base?

kind of. I did think to scrub off the wall first and got a lot of
coloration coming off on the lower area of the walls.

When I told Paint people about the problem, they talked about making
certain the wall were clean AND dry.

On Thu, 1 Nov 2012 07:10:30 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

So, a brush is the
most convenient way that I'd like to stay with. So, why has this
turned into a fiasco? Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?
What am I doing wrong here?

Get some thick nap roller covers (1/2-3/4 inch) and roll the paint on.

I'd still like to see a photo of your stucco texture. Is it really a
sand finish or a light knock-down texture?

Are you following the paint can label for proper temperatures?

On Nov 1, 8:02*am, gpsman wrote:
On Nov 1, 10:10*am, Robert Macy wrote:

In trying to apply paint to a 'sandy' type stucco finish:

Home previously spray painted with what appears to be extremely
watered Dunn Edwards flat Interior/Exterior so bleached by the sun
that there are tones lighter

So surface has essentially been primed.

Ha!

So, why has this
turned into a fiasco?

You don't know what you're doing.

Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?

Dirt, probably, but paint does not flow into cracks, crevices and
holes the way one might imagine, you have to force it in by back-
brushing even if you spray it.

What am I doing wrong here?

Operating too far beyond your area of expertise.
*-----

- gpsman

Operating too far beyond my expertise? By definition of results, true.
But, I know enough to ask.

I do have experience, and have experience in learning HOW to do. I
used to work for a professional home painter and learned all kinds of
tricks and tips, most people don't know about. To do the exterior of
our 5,000 square foot two story Edwardian house I purchased an
expensive paint sprayer . Had to prep that extensively, since it had
been allowed to deteriorate over the years before we got to it. One
side took 16 hours just to spray coat. Completely rebuilt the interior
putting it back to original as much as possible. Worked with
techniques and self taught to the extent that the local museum curator
had his restoration people come talk to me to see my workmanship and
find out how to do things the 'original' way for restoring their
buildings. [the house was built in 1906 using materials that boggle
your mind, like REAL 2 by 4's actually 2 by 4 in size, and hand sawn
wood timbers and planking.] One example, I showed them how to brush
paint yet obtain a surface as smooth as formica and always better than
spray painting. However, I did get close to that flatness by using an
artist's airbrush with variable spray pattern to do the 80+ frames in
the french doors..Beat 'hand cramp' any day.

The idea of dirt I considered first, so I scrubbed the wall section
the day before, but to no real improvement to the symptoms of my
problem. Plus, the problem that prompted me to post here today has
just occurred over a new layer of paint unlikely to have been caused
by dirt.

As far as nooks and crannies go, I kind of thought that if the brush
can't fill that then a roller would fare no better. Even spray
painting will have its ability challenged to fill well.

On Nov 1, 7:53*am, Home Guy wrote:
Robert Macy wrote:

*- *HELP! what's going wrong here? *-

Sorry - I don't know what's going on here.

You weren't more specific in your subject line, so I can't help you.

But congratulations.

You win today's "Bonehead Subject Line of the Day" award!

Wow! I didn't know there was a competition in that category. I'll try
to be MORE obtuse next time to maintain my award status.

On Nov 1, 1:24*pm, Robert Macy wrote:
On Nov 1, 7:53*am, Home Guy wrote:

Robert Macy wrote:

*- *HELP! what's going wrong here? *-

Sorry - I don't know what's going on here.

You weren't more specific in your subject line, so I can't help you.

But congratulations.

You win today's "Bonehead Subject Line of the Day" award!

Wow! I didn't know there was a competition in that category. I'll try
to be MORE obtuse next time to maintain my award status.

LOL

On Nov 1, 9:10*am, Robert Macy wrote:
In trying to apply paint to a 'sandy' type stucco finish:

Home previously spray painted with what appears to be extremely
watered Dunn Edwards flat Interior/Exterior so bleached by the sun
that there are tones lighter huge spotting, especially around cracking
stucco. [done in 2008]

So surface has essentially been primed. I asked the group and got a
good recommendation for readily available Behr Masonry Stucco paint
from Home Depot. *The paint is thick, doesn't separate even days after
shake mixing, and covers with one coat.

I'm doing this myself, dont' want a lot of prep and mess and cleanup,
so deemed to use a brush and just do sections at a time with any
overlaps at corners/junctions, so won't show. I can do the painting in
shade, in evening, so sun won't accelerate drying before curing.

First problem is that it appeared that one gallon did around 80 sq
ft !!! *I tried cutting back, but can't even begin to get paint down
into the 'holes' in the stucco. Have taken to poking at the wall with
the bristles of the brush which almost works.

Second problem is that the paint dries faster than I can move on.
Meaning one can get a 'gummy' overlap between small sections as you
move the ladder and scaffolding. *Ok, I attributed that to very dry
base surface. When done with this first coat, stood back and looked at
it. Four days later, it still looked like I had used different colored
paint sources, and the surface had a 'blotched' appearance. Looked
like a quilt up on the wall consisting of square little 'islands' for
the different sections I had done as I had moved along.

Ok, first coat was a disaster so let's try it again. This time I added
2 oz of Floetrol to the half gallon of paint I was planning to use
[recommended 4 oz per gallon]. *Half gallon should do 80 sq ft on a
second coat, right? WRONG! *This time I moved as fast as possible. Set
the ladder start at the top and come down to the stone facade as fast
as possible, then move over and repeat until done. *As I worked I
completely filled EVERY hole I could see and verified that the surface
had a nice wet sheen everywhere. This time I was moving so fast that
even the overlaps were successful - they still had their wet sheen
into the previously painted areas.

I can live with using excessive paint [this is NOT color coverage, but
liquid coverage] But I cannot live with the end result: As you stand
and look at the wall you see very obviously well defined 'strips' down
the wall. All the same color, but looks like sheets of wallpaper
overlapping at their edges around 4 inches!

It's been over 24 hours now with time to properly cure and dry and
even the sun has hit the wall now, yet the effect is still there!

I can't paint my house and have these ugly patterns left all over it
when I'm done. What am I doing wrong here?

Again spray paint is not an option [I have a $2,000 airless sprayer in
storage I don't have access to since I own one I'm not allowed to buy
another one]; rollers might be an option but the *cleanup after doing
each section will be monumental, plus not sure the roller can get
paint down into all the nooks and crannies anyway. So, a brush is the
most convenient way that I'd like to stay with. So, why has this
turned into a fiasco? Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?
What am I doing wrong here?

Are you sure the paint is fully dry? If it went on as thick as you
said, there may be dampness under what appears to be a dry surface,
and that dampness would be where there is an overlap and the paint is
the thickest.

Robert Macy wrote:
On Nov 1, 8:02 am, gpsman wrote:
On Nov 1, 10:10 am, Robert Macy wrote:

In trying to apply paint to a 'sandy' type stucco finish:

Home previously spray painted with what appears to be extremely
watered Dunn Edwards flat Interior/Exterior so bleached by the sun
that there are tones lighter

So surface has essentially been primed.

Ha!

So, why has this
turned into a fiasco?

You don't know what you're doing.

Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?

Dirt, probably, but paint does not flow into cracks, crevices and
holes the way one might imagine, you have to force it in by back-
brushing even if you spray it.

What am I doing wrong here?

Operating too far beyond your area of expertise.
-----

- gpsman

Operating too far beyond my expertise? By definition of results, true.
But, I know enough to ask.

I do have experience, and have experience in learning HOW to do. I
used to work for a professional home painter and learned all kinds of
tricks and tips, most people don't know about. To do the exterior of
our 5,000 square foot two story Edwardian house I purchased an
expensive paint sprayer . Had to prep that extensively, since it had
been allowed to deteriorate over the years before we got to it. One
side took 16 hours just to spray coat. Completely rebuilt the interior
putting it back to original as much as possible. Worked with
techniques and self taught to the extent that the local museum curator
had his restoration people come talk to me to see my workmanship and
find out how to do things the 'original' way for restoring their
buildings. [the house was built in 1906 using materials that boggle
your mind, like REAL 2 by 4's actually 2 by 4 in size, and hand sawn
wood timbers and planking.] One example, I showed them how to brush
paint yet obtain a surface as smooth as formica and always better than
spray painting. However, I did get close to that flatness by using an
artist's airbrush with variable spray pattern to do the 80+ frames in
the french doors..Beat 'hand cramp' any day.

The idea of dirt I considered first, so I scrubbed the wall section
the day before, but to no real improvement to the symptoms of my
problem. Plus, the problem that prompted me to post here today has
just occurred over a new layer of paint unlikely to have been caused
by dirt.

As far as nooks and crannies go, I kind of thought that if the brush
can't fill that then a roller would fare no better. Even spray
painting will have its ability challenged to fill well.

I would have wet it and noticed how water flowed and stuck. Wondering about
waterproofing ?

I brushed half my cinderblock with same paint. No noticeable color changes.
Slap paint on, then tap into holes. I did stir the paint.

Greg

On Nov 1, 11:46*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
...snip...
Are you sure the paint is fully dry? *If it went on as thick as you
said, there may be dampness under what appears to be a dry surface,
and that dampness would be where there is an overlap and the paint is
the thickest.

Good point! I am watching to see if the effect is mitigating over
time.

I fear that what I am seeing is a subtle effect of slightly smoothing
an otherwise rough coating and THAT simply shows up as a shiny line
about 4 inches wide of vertical strips down the wall. When the sun is
on the wall the lines are very pronounced, when the wall is completely
shaded, not so much, but still discernible.

I have absolutely NO idea how to solve this other than bite the bullet
and spray the ****** out of it.

On Nov 1, 6:06*pm, gregz wrote:
...snip...
I would have wet it and noticed how water flowed and stuck. Wondering about
waterproofing ?

I brushed half my cinderblock with same paint. No noticeable color changes.
Slap paint on, then tap into holes. I did stir the paint.

Greg

I will try that on the first coat areas. but the problem that prompted
me to post today was from watching stripes appear on the coat over a
fairly solid first coat.

When I called back to HD, the Home Depot paint people asked me if the
wall was clean 'and' dry. However, Ms Macy suggested, as you did,
scrub the dirt and powdered old finish off the wall and then wet the
wall before you paint it.

I'm going to try more Floetrol AND wet the old surface first.

In article
,
Robert Macy wrote:

I have absolutely NO idea how to solve this other than bite the bullet
and spray the ****** out of it.

I've been waiting for the stucco experts to come out and tell you that
you aren't supposed to paint stucco.

First problem was that he was only getting 80 square feet of coverage per gallon. I expect that's because the surface of your stucco is porous, and so the moisture in the elastomeric coating is BOTH being wicked into the stucco and evaporating into the air. So, it's drying considerably faster than it would if it were being brushed onto a non-porous substrate.

It would have been better to prime the stucco first to prevent the water from the elastomeric coating from being sucked into the stucco. Or, at least, that's what I think is going on with the low coverage you're getting.

What you're describing is typical of insufficient hide in the paint you're using. In painting interior walls where you cut in around the perimeter of the wall or ceiling with a brush and then fill in that area with a roller, the result of insufficient hide will result in a phenomenon called the "picture framing effect". That's caused by the perimeter of the wall or ceiling (where the two coats of paint overlap) having a noticably increased colour density than the area covered by only a single coat.


When a paint fails to completely hide the colour of the substrate, what's actually happening is that incident light is traveling through the paint film, reflecting off the substrate and traveling back through the paint film to your eye. Complete hide is achieved when none of light you see coming from the painted surface is light that reflected off the substrate. That means that either the incident light doesn't make it far enough through the paint to reach the substrate, or any reflected light doesn't make it all the way out of the paint film. Either way, the colour of the substrate doesn't affect the light you see emanating from the painted surface. When you have complete hide of the substrate, there won't be any difference in colour density between n, n+1 or n+20 coats of paint. That's cuz in none of those cases is the light you see coming from the paint being affected by the colour of the substrate.

Cutting in with a brush, and then filling in with a roller, and looking for that picture framing effect is the way I decided on the paint I was going to use in my apartments. Pratt & Lambert Accolade Satin was the only SATIN paint I could find that would give me complete hide in one coat. Several eggshell and one or two velvet paints would give me complete hide in one coat, but P&L Accolade Satin provides a smoother, easier to clean finish, and still provided complete hide in one coat.

Now what's happened is that you're not getting the absorbtion of the water into the stucco any more (cuz the first coat is acting like a primer/sealer), so your elastomeric coating isn't drying as quickly on you. (You thought you were painting faster on the second coat, but I expect the credit really should be going to the paint drying slower than with the first coat cuz the second coat wasn't being wicked into the stucco like the first coat was.)

You're also probably getting close to complete hide with two coats, and in those vertical bands where those second coats overlap (and you have more than two coats), you're also getting better gloss development because the elastomeric coating is drying slower (more normally) and the first two coats have filled in the surface roughness of the stucco, thereby providing a smoother substrate for paint that overlapped along those vertical bands.

I'm thinking a third coat with a brush or roller should result in your getting a coating of uniform colour density and gloss level over the entire coating surface.

On subsequent walls, if it wuz me, I would use a latex primer to seal your stucco first. That'll prevent the water in the coating from being wicked into the stucco.

Then do all your cutting in around windows and along edges with a brush. Maybe cut in a second time around the left or right sides of the windows and doors and see if you see any difference in colour density between the sides that have two coats and the sides that only have one. Keep applying coats until you cannot distinguish the difference in colour density between n and n+1 coats. Then you know you have complete hide.

Now, apply multiple coats with a roller sleeve rather than a brush to speed up the painting process. Or, apply the first coat with a brush to fill in all the holes, and then apply subsequent coats with a roller sleeve. Not saying there's anything wrong with painting with a brush, but if a roller will give you faster paint application, I see no reason not to use a roller instead of a brush.

Robert Macy wrote:
In trying to apply paint to a 'sandy' type stucco finish:

Home previously spray painted with what appears to be extremely
watered Dunn Edwards flat Interior/Exterior so bleached by the sun
that there are tones lighter huge spotting, especially around cracking
stucco. [done in 2008]

So surface has essentially been primed. I asked the group and got a
good recommendation for readily available Behr Masonry Stucco paint
from Home Depot. The paint is thick, doesn't separate even days after
shake mixing, and covers with one coat.

I'm doing this myself, dont' want a lot of prep and mess and cleanup,
so deemed to use a brush and just do sections at a time with any
overlaps at corners/junctions, so won't show. I can do the painting in
shade, in evening, so sun won't accelerate drying before curing.

First problem is that it appeared that one gallon did around 80 sq
ft !!! I tried cutting back, but can't even begin to get paint down
into the 'holes' in the stucco. Have taken to poking at the wall with
the bristles of the brush which almost works.

Second problem is that the paint dries faster than I can move on.
Meaning one can get a 'gummy' overlap between small sections as you
move the ladder and scaffolding. Ok, I attributed that to very dry
base surface. When done with this first coat, stood back and looked at
it. Four days later, it still looked like I had used different colored
paint sources, and the surface had a 'blotched' appearance. Looked
like a quilt up on the wall consisting of square little 'islands' for
the different sections I had done as I had moved along.

Ok, first coat was a disaster so let's try it again. This time I added
2 oz of Floetrol to the half gallon of paint I was planning to use
[recommended 4 oz per gallon]. Half gallon should do 80 sq ft on a
second coat, right? WRONG! This time I moved as fast as possible. Set
the ladder start at the top and come down to the stone facade as fast
as possible, then move over and repeat until done. As I worked I
completely filled EVERY hole I could see and verified that the surface
had a nice wet sheen everywhere. This time I was moving so fast that
even the overlaps were successful - they still had their wet sheen
into the previously painted areas.

I can live with using excessive paint [this is NOT color coverage, but
liquid coverage] But I cannot live with the end result: As you stand
and look at the wall you see very obviously well defined 'strips' down
the wall. All the same color, but looks like sheets of wallpaper
overlapping at their edges around 4 inches!

It's been over 24 hours now with time to properly cure and dry and
even the sun has hit the wall now, yet the effect is still there!

I can't paint my house and have these ugly patterns left all over it
when I'm done. What am I doing wrong here?

Again spray paint is not an option [I have a $2,000 airless sprayer in
storage I don't have access to since I own one I'm not allowed to buy
another one]; rollers might be an option but the cleanup after doing
each section will be monumental, plus not sure the roller can get
paint down into all the nooks and crannies anyway. So, a brush is the
most convenient way that I'd like to stay with. So, why has this
turned into a fiasco? Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?
What am I doing wrong here?

You aren't waiting long enough. Your paint is going to take a month or more
to totally cure and until it does you can expect to see variation in areas
caused by more/less paint.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Nov 2, 6:24*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
...snip...
You aren't waiting long enough. *Your paint is going to take a month or more
to totally cure and until it does you can expect to see variation in areas
caused by more/less paint.
...snip....

I hope you're right. Trusting, I will now forge ahead!

On Nov 1, 10:00*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
*Robert Macy wrote:

I have absolutely NO idea how to solve this other than bite the bullet
and spray the ****** out of it.

I've been waiting for the stucco experts to come out and tell you that
you aren't supposed to paint stucco.

Say what?! Sounds good to me, but stucco absorbs rain like you
wouldn't believe, stays wet for long time, and I swear smells moldy
afterwards. Solution is to paint [read that as seal the surface and
seal all those thousands of cracks]

Not supposed to paint? Is there a URL that explains?

In article
,
Robert Macy wrote:

On Nov 1, 10:00*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
*Robert Macy wrote:

I have absolutely NO idea how to solve this other than bite the bullet
and spray the ****** out of it.

I've been waiting for the stucco experts to come out and tell you that
you aren't supposed to paint stucco.

Say what?! Sounds good to me, but stucco absorbs rain like you
wouldn't believe, stays wet for long time, and I swear smells moldy
afterwards. Solution is to paint [read that as seal the surface and
seal all those thousands of cracks]

Not supposed to paint? Is there a URL that explains?

This seems to be one of those "is duct tape a lubricant" issues. It's
been discussed several times here, and you can search the archives. The
position of the nay-sayers is this:

shawnbennett wrote:
DO NOT PAINT YOUR STUCCO!! You may as well wrap your house in plastic
wrap, it will not breath and you WILL get mold. Stucco should never be
painted. If you want the cracks fixed and maybe a updated texture, then a
restucco is what you need. Depending on the stucco , you can fog coat it.
But if you like painting every 3 years , go ahead and paint but you will
be cleaning mold off of your window sills and the mold will strt to grow
in the stucco along the bottom of the wall because there is no where for
the humidity to go. Call 3 or 4 stucco contractors and you will see that
generally a restucco is 25% cheaper than paint and if its done right , it
should last you a lifetime.

On Nov 2, 10:24*am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
*Robert Macy wrote:





On Nov 1, 10:00*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
*Robert Macy wrote:

I have absolutely NO idea how to solve this other than bite the bullet
and spray the ****** out of it.

I've been waiting for the stucco experts to come out and tell you that
you aren't supposed to paint stucco.

Say what?! Sounds good to me, but stucco absorbs rain like you
wouldn't believe, stays wet for long time, and I swear smells moldy
afterwards. Solution is to paint [read that as seal the surface and
seal all those thousands of cracks]

Not supposed to paint? Is there a URL that explains?

This seems to be one of those "is duct tape a lubricant" issues. It's
been discussed several times here, and you can search the archives. The
position of the nay-sayers is this:

shawnbennett wrote:

DO NOT PAINT YOUR STUCCO!! You may as well wrap your house in plastic
wrap, it will not breath and you WILL get mold. Stucco should never be
painted. If you want the cracks fixed and maybe a updated texture, then a
restucco is what you need. Depending on the stucco , you can fog coat it.
But if you like painting every 3 years , go ahead and paint but you will
be cleaning mold off of your window sills and the mold will strt to grow
in the stucco along the bottom of the wall because there is no where for
the humidity to go. Call 3 or 4 stucco contractors and you will see that
generally a restucco is 25% cheaper than paint and if its done right , it
should last you a lifetime.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

But if the stucco is keeping moisture in, it is also keeping it out of
the walls, so what moisture are you talking about, from the inside
occupants of the house?

In article
,
"hr(bob) " wrote:

On Nov 2, 10:24*am, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
*Robert Macy wrote:





On Nov 1, 10:00*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
*Robert Macy wrote:

I have absolutely NO idea how to solve this other than bite the bullet
and spray the ****** out of it.

I've been waiting for the stucco experts to come out and tell you that
you aren't supposed to paint stucco.

Say what?! Sounds good to me, but stucco absorbs rain like you
wouldn't believe, stays wet for long time, and I swear smells moldy
afterwards. Solution is to paint [read that as seal the surface and
seal all those thousands of cracks]

Not supposed to paint? Is there a URL that explains?

This seems to be one of those "is duct tape a lubricant" issues. It's
been discussed several times here, and you can search the archives. The
position of the nay-sayers is this:

shawnbennett wrote:

DO NOT PAINT YOUR STUCCO!! You may as well wrap your house in plastic
wrap, it will not breath and you WILL get mold. Stucco should never be
painted. If you want the cracks fixed and maybe a updated texture, then a
restucco is what you need. Depending on the stucco , you can fog coat it.
But if you like painting every 3 years , go ahead and paint but you will
be cleaning mold off of your window sills and the mold will strt to grow
in the stucco along the bottom of the wall because there is no where for
the humidity to go. Call 3 or 4 stucco contractors and you will see that
generally a restucco is 25% cheaper than paint and if its done right , it
should last you a lifetime.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

But if the stucco is keeping moisture in, it is also keeping it out of
the walls, so what moisture are you talking about, from the inside
occupants of the house?

Are you asking me? I'm just remembering and reporting on what others
have said. Some opine that it's fine to paint stucco, many others say
absolutely not. Yes, it absorbs water, but it also lets go of it.
Supposedly stucco is also a very poor substrate for paint.

On Fri, 2 Nov 2012 09:30:32 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) "
wrote:

But if the stucco is keeping moisture in, it is also keeping it out of
the walls, so what moisture are you talking about, from the inside
occupants of the house?

A metal weep screed it installed to stop water from collecting behind
the stucco.

Pic:

http://localism.com/image_store/uploads/8/6/4/6/8/ar130755449886468.jpg

Millions of stucco homes are painted (FL, AZ, NV, CA, NM....)

I'd like to address this issue of whether or not painting stucco will prevent it from "breathing", and thereby eliminating moisture from the walls of the house.

Moisture gets into the exterior walls of a house through leaks in the vapour barrier, such as at electrical outlets in exterior walls. That moisture accumulates over the course of the winter, forming condensation and frost during the winter, and that frost melts in the spring time. It's true that mold needs moisture to survive, but an occasional wetting once per year isn't enough to support mold growth.

People should be aware that all latex paints (both interior and exterior), "breathe", whereas neither interior nor exterior oil based paints "breathe". The term "breathe" means that humidity can pass through the dry paint film, but not liquid water.

Oil based paints don't breathe because they crosslink so densely that there isn't sufficient space between the oil molecules or the parts of the alkyd resins to allow water molecules to pass through the paint film.

Both interior and exterior latex paints "breathe" because the gaps within and between acrylic resins are larger than the diameter of a single H2O molecule, but smaller than the distance between H2O molecules in liquid water.

Consequently, individual H2O molecules can pass through a latex paint film relatively easily, but liquid water cannot pass through it. It's that ability to allow humidity to pass, but not liquid water that's really what's meant by that term "breathe".

An acrylic resin can best be thought of as a long copper wire scrunched into a small ball. No matter how strong the person doing the scrunching, tiny gaps will remain between the segments of wire that make up each ball. Those gaps will be wide enough to allow a sufficiently fine powder, like sand say, to flow through the wire ball. Water molecules attract each other, and so liquid water cannot pass through that scrunched up wire ball unless the gaps between the wire segments are wider than the distance between H2O molecules in liquid water, and in latex paints, they're not.

So, I don't see why painting stucco with a latex primer and exterior latex paint is going to prevent moisture inside the wall from evaporating through the paint film.

Masonary paints are latex piants that have particularily wide gaps between the wire segments, but not so wide that they allow liquid water to pass through the paint film. That allows for the greatest "breathability" of the paint film to minimize freeze/thaw damage in masonary walls from moisture getting inside the wall and freezing.

I really don't know how well elastomeric coatings breathe.

On Nov 2, 10:36*am, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 2 Nov 2012 09:30:32 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) "

wrote:
But if the stucco is keeping moisture in, it is also keeping it out of
the walls, so what moisture are you talking about, from the inside
occupants of the house?

A metal weep screed it installed to stop water from collecting behind
the stucco.

Pic:

http://localism.com/image_store/uploads/8/6/4/6/8/ar130755449886468.jpg

Millions of stucco homes are painted (FL, AZ, NV, CA, NM....)

Yes, our home has a screen at the bottom edge.

I remember someone saying that paint stopped water, but would let
through moisture vapor. is that possible?

On Nov 2, 2:08*pm, nestork wrote:
I'd like to address this issue of whether or not painting stucco will
prevent it from "breathing", and thereby eliminating moisture from the
walls of the house.

Moisture gets into the exterior walls of a house through leaks in the
vapour barrier, such as at electrical outlets in exterior walls. *That
moisture accumulates over the course of the winter, forming condensation
and frost during the winter, and that frost melts in the spring time.
It's true that mold needs moisture to survive, but an occasional wetting
once per year isn't enough to support mold growth.

People should be aware that all latex paints (both interior and
exterior), "breathe", whereas neither interior nor exterior oil based
paints "breathe". *The term "breathe" means that humidity can pass
through the dry paint film, but not liquid water.

Oil based paints don't breathe because they crosslink so densely that
there isn't sufficient space between the oil molecules or the parts of
the alkyd resins to allow water molecules to pass through the paint
film.

Both interior and exterior latex paints "breathe" because the gaps
within and between acrylic resins are larger than the diameter of a
single H2O molecule, but smaller than the distance between H2O molecules
in liquid water.

Consequently, individual H2O molecules can pass through a latex paint
film relatively easily, but liquid water cannot pass through it. *It's
that ability to allow humidity to pass, but not liquid water that's
really what's meant by that term "breathe".

An acrylic resin can best be thought of as a long copper wire scrunched
into a small ball. *No matter how strong the person doing the
scrunching, tiny gaps will remain between the segments of wire that make
up each ball. *Those gaps will be wide enough to allow a sufficiently
fine powder, like sand say, to flow through the wire ball. *Water
molecules attract each other, and so liquid water cannot pass through
that scrunched up wire ball unless the gaps between the wire segments
are wider than the distance between H2O molecules in liquid water, and
in latex paints, they're not.

So, I don't see why painting stucco with a latex primer and exterior
latex paint is going to prevent moisture inside the wall from
evaporating through the paint film.

Masonary paints are latex piants that have particularily wide gaps
between the wire segments, but not so wide that they allow liquid water
to pass through the paint film. *That allows for the greatest
"breathability" of the paint film to minimize freeze/thaw damage in
masonary walls from moisture getting inside the wall and freezing.

I really don't know how well elastomeric coatings breathe.

--
nestork

Thanks for the detailed explanation.

It is my understanding that here in Arizona the moisture barrier is
reversed compared to homes in areas that are cold/freezing. Think
about it we run AC here, making the interior colder than exterior at
least 9 months a year. I don't run it at all if I can help it. but
you see the concept of the inside being cooler than the outside.

However, when working on the exterior wall to reposition the stove top
vent hood; the barriers looked like they were still set up for a
'freezing' climate. consisting of
interior paint
joint compound skim coat
gypsum drywall
nylong netting[ chicken wire gaps
fluffy fibre glass insulation blown in between the studs
1/2 inch sheathing
two layers of tar paper
stucco
exterior paint

Upon running the stove top fan am convinced the house is, nor could
ANY house could be, tight enough to need super breathing requirements.

I don't think you'll have any problem either.

Not only is Arizona a dry climate, but cold air escaping through a hole in your vapour barrier is going to warm up and absorb any moisture in the walls, which is the opposite of what happens in the winter where I live.

I'm just surprised that it's taking three coats to get a decent looking coating over your stucco. I expect that's because the first coat you're putting on is acting as a sealer for the second coat. I think priming with a latex primer would reduce the amount of elastomeric coating you have to put on.

PS:
All acrylic and PVA resins have enough elasticity to stretch and shrink with wood outdoors, and primers don't need to have UV resistance and mildew resistance because they're meant to be covered by a top coat that would keep the sunlight and moisture off of them. If you ever see latex primers listed as an "Interior Latex Primer" or an "Exterior Latex Primer", it's likely that the only difference is that the latter uses a coalescing solvent that smells a lot, whereas the former uses one that doesn't. In hospitals and commercial settings it's often important not to have the latex primer or paint smell as the coalescing solvents evaporate because some people can get headaches from inhaling those fumes, and generally, the less the solvent smells, the less people will be affected by it.

On 11/2/2012 3:08 PM, nestork wrote:


There seem to be 2 opinions on painting.

One is for stucco over concrete block which is common in the south. It
is very common to paint the stucco.

The other is stucco over wood frame. The advice is to redash, which is
the thin stucco material used as the surface on the original stucco.
Paint turns the stucco into a surface that requires relatively frequent
repainting. You don't have to redash very often. (I don't know why that
logic doesn't apply to cement block stucco.) Redash can be pigmented.


So, I don't see why painting stucco with a latex primer and exterior
latex paint is going to prevent moisture inside the wall from
evaporating through the paint film.

Masonary paints are latex piants that have particularily wide gaps
between the wire segments, but not so wide that they allow liquid water
to pass through the paint film. That allows for the greatest
"breathability" of the paint film to minimize freeze/thaw damage in
masonary walls from moisture getting inside the wall and freezing.

Thanks for your usual detailed information.

The advice on painting stucco, in particular, is do not use oil paint,
which prevents 'breathing'. The outer surface of the wall has to
'breathe' better than inside the house surface. It can be a particular
problem on older houses that do not have the vapor barriers common on
newer houses.

I would note there is also EFIS. Don't know if it is still being used,
but there were some horror stories, which may have been from improper
use, where there was extensive mold inside the walls. Very expensive to fix.

In article ,
bud-- wrote:

I would note there is also EFIS.

Electronic Flight Instrumentation System? I'd rather have steam gauges.

On Fri, 2 Nov 2012 19:02:33 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

On Nov 2, 10:36*am, Oren wrote:
On Fri, 2 Nov 2012 09:30:32 -0700 (PDT), "hr(bob) "

wrote:
But if the stucco is keeping moisture in, it is also keeping it out of
the walls, so what moisture are you talking about, from the inside
occupants of the house?

A metal weep screed it installed to stop water from collecting behind
the stucco.

Pic:

http://localism.com/image_store/uploads/8/6/4/6/8/ar130755449886468.jpg

Millions of stucco homes are painted (FL, AZ, NV, CA, NM....)

Yes, our home has a screen at the bottom edge.

I remember someone saying that paint stopped water, but would let
through moisture vapor. is that possible?

Dang if I know, Robert.

The elastomeric paint is smarter than me... I use it on my stucco.

On Nov 3, 8:04*am, nestork wrote:
I don't think you'll have any problem either.

Not only is Arizona a dry climate, but cold air escaping through a hole
in your vapour barrier is going to warm up and absorb any moisture in
the walls, which is the opposite of what happens in the winter where I
live.

I'm just surprised that it's taking three coats to get a decent looking
coating over your stucco. *I expect that's because the first coat you're
putting on is acting as a sealer for the second coat. *I think priming
with a latex primer would reduce the amount of elastomeric coating you
have to put on.

PS:
All acrylic and PVA resins have enough elasticity to stretch and shrink
with wood outdoors, and primers don't need to have UV resistance and
mildew resistance because they're meant to be covered by a top coat that
would keep the sunlight and moisture off of them. *If you ever see latex
primers listed as an "Interior Latex Primer" or an "Exterior Latex
Primer", it's likely that the only difference is that the latter uses a
coalescing solvent that smells a lot, whereas the former uses one that
doesn't. *In hospitals and commercial settings it's often important not
to have the latex primer or paint smell as the coalescing solvents
evaporate because some people can get headaches from inhaling those
fumes, and generally, the less the solvent smells, the less people will
be affected by it.

--
nestork

When I did the exterior walls as a SECOND coat over previous attempts,
I got these vertical 'llines' that show up because of pattern
recognition. Someone said wait a month they'll disappear, but I think
the lines come from a change in surface 'smoothness' which will never
change with time. They do seem to be diminishing with time, not sure
why.

As an experiment, I painted only half a cupalo(sp?) tower on the south
side of the home. A week ago, I only painted half vertically because
of the height and difficulty to reach. Today I painted the second haf
and there is absolutely NO vertical line caused by an overlap! There
is an apparent change of color, which could be attributed to drying
time. We'll see.

So here it is. Wet overlap shows up, but dry overlap does not ?! That
makes no sense to me, but if it's true I'll simply adjust my painting
around it.

Both wet and dry overlap should result in the same increase in colour density until you reach complete hide of the substrate colour. Once you're at complete hide, adding more coats or more paint anywhere won't cause any change in colour density.

Robert Macy wrote:

When I did the exterior walls as a SECOND coat over previous attempts,
I got these vertical 'llines' that show up because of pattern
recognition. Someone said wait a month they'll disappear, but I think
the lines come from a change in surface 'smoothness' which will never
change with time. They do seem to be diminishing with time, not sure
why.

As an experiment, I painted only half a cupalo(sp?) tower on the south
side of the home. A week ago, I only painted half vertically because
of the height and difficulty to reach. Today I painted the second haf
and there is absolutely NO vertical line caused by an overlap! There
is an apparent change of color, which could be attributed to drying
time. We'll see.

So here it is. Wet overlap shows up, but dry overlap does not ?! That
makes no sense to me, but if it's true I'll simply adjust my painting
around it.

Why does that surprise you? If you overlap wet paint you are retarding what
was already there - partially dried - from drying further. It will,
eventually. In addition to difference in color, you will also get a
difference in sheen.

IIRC, you are painting over previous paint that is chalky. On an old house.
Lord knows how many coats of paint are on it but that old, chalky paint is
going to suck moisture out of the new paint. Put on a coat, moisture is
sucked; come back later and apply more paint overlapping the old and you are
going to get a stripe where they overlap because the overlapped area has
been sealed. Not hard to understand.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Nov 3, 9:38*pm, nestork wrote:
Both wet and dry overlap should result in the same increase in colour
density until you reach complete hide of the substrate colour. *Once
you're at complete hide, adding more coats or more paint anywhere won't
cause any change in colour density.

--
nestork

Not sure I'm fighting 'colour density' because
1. the first coat just appeared 'blotchy', but appeared to give full
coverage, with any pattern underneath caused by variations of sun
bleaching, etc do not seem to translate through to change the
apearance of the first coat.
2. with a very solid looking colour, the second coat seems to have
these vertical stripes of overlap.

I don't see any pattern, well not much, burning through from the first
coat's blotches.

The more and more I look at this, the more and more I think I'm
fighting surface textural changes. Less coat - surface is slightly
rougher. More coat - the surface is slightly smoother. And, the eye is
quick to perceive a pattern, any pattern.

But, your point is well taken, I have completely discounted the
potential for colour density changes. From memory, the eye is supposed
to be more sensitive to colour shift than to light/dark shift. With
that in mind, it would explain why the first coat hasn't burned
through to the second, only the second shows. No, if colour density
were an issue, it should show up in the second coat over the first,
and does not seem to. I'm caught between hoping it's only a matter of
true curing/drying time and just careful applications.

I add Floetrol at 4 oz per gallon [recommended amount] and the paint
seems to still be sticky, gooey, and dry before I can go very far
along the wall. The paint even forms a slight scum on top of the
surface in the container. Keep in mind this is evening painting, and
is painting on the shaded walls, not in the sun, nor any surface in
the sun. So there should be nothing except our 10% humidity
accellerating the paint's drying.

On Nov 4, 6:27*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
...snip....
Why does that surprise you? *If you overlap wet paint you are retarding what
was already there - partially dried - from drying further. *It will,
eventually. *In addition to difference in color, you will also get a
difference in sheen.

IIRC, you are painting over previous paint that is chalky. *On an old house.
Lord knows how many coats of paint are on it but that old, chalky paint is
going to suck moisture out of the new paint. *Put on a coat, moisture is
sucked; come back later and apply more paint overlapping the old and you are
going to get a stripe where they overlap because the overlapped area has
been sealed. *Not hard to understand.
...snip...

What?! retarding paint's drying changes its colour?! Difference in
sheen I believe. But that's due to the surface gumming up. I used to
use Easy OFF Window Cleaner, comes in an aerosol spray can, to lightly
mist the surface of latex and be able to brush over any variation
making it uniform, but alas, they've discontinued that product. Used
to be able to use that product to go back hours later nd still make
corrections, too.

First, coat should be sensitive to what's underneath. That's why I
chose to water wash and physically scrub the old coat. Which did show
a colooured run off of chalky paint and dirt from wherever. I saw a
difference with the way the paint went on and recommend always
cleaning the base surface. But, the problem that prompted me to post
is NOT with respect to the first coat, but the second coat, which of
course is going over an almost acceptable surface of paint. Second
coat was actually an experiment. I don't want to do two coats on this
house, too expensive, and too labor intensive.

Robert Macy wrote:
On Nov 4, 6:27 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
...snip....
Why does that surprise you? If you overlap wet paint you are
retarding what was already there - partially dried - from drying
further. It will, eventually. In addition to difference in color,
you will also get a difference in sheen.

IIRC, you are painting over previous paint that is chalky. On an old
house. Lord knows how many coats of paint are on it but that old,
chalky paint is going to suck moisture out of the new paint. Put on
a coat, moisture is sucked; come back later and apply more paint
overlapping the old and you are going to get a stripe where they
overlap because the overlapped area has been sealed. Not hard to
understand. ...snip...

What?! retarding paint's drying changes its colour?

I didn't say that. I did say that paint can take many days to completely
dry/cure and that the color and sheen won't be uniform until that time has
passed.
__________

! Difference in
sheen I believe. But that's due to the surface gumming up. I used to
use Easy OFF Window Cleaner, comes in an aerosol spray can, to lightly
mist the surface of latex and be able to brush over any variation
making it uniform, but alas, they've discontinued that product. Used
to be able to use that product to go back hours later nd still make
corrections, too.

First, coat should be sensitive to what's underneath. That's why I
chose to water wash and physically scrub the old coat. Which did show
a colooured run off of chalky paint and dirt from wherever. I saw a
difference with the way the paint went on and recommend always
cleaning the base surface. But, the problem that prompted me to post
is NOT with respect to the first coat, but the second coat, which of
course is going over an almost acceptable surface of paint. Second
coat was actually an experiment. I don't want to do two coats on this
house, too expensive, and too labor intensive.

Let me try to clarify...

1. First coat over existing, old, chalky paint. Coat dries - dries, not
cures - relatively fast because old paint absorbed some moisture.

2. Second coat, partially lapping #1. The lapped part is a different color
and/or sheen because the first coat under it has sealed the surface and the
lapped part is drying/curing more slowly than paint over the old, chalky
surface.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Sun, 4 Nov 2012 06:30:26 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy
wrote:

The more and more I look at this, the more and more I think I'm
fighting surface textural changes. Less coat - surface is slightly
rougher. More coat - the surface is slightly smoother. And, the eye is
quick to perceive a pattern, any pattern.

Has this wall been modified? During construction that changed plans.

Maybe a different crew stuccoed the house and another made a repair.

I can see faults in some stucco houses around here. I'm lucky not to
have such a problem.

On Nov 4, 2:08*pm, "dadiOH" wrote:
Robert Macy wrote:
On Nov 4, 6:27 am, "dadiOH" wrote:
...snip....
Why does that surprise you? If you overlap wet paint you are
retarding what was already there - partially dried - from drying
further. It will, eventually. In addition to difference in color,
you will also get a difference in sheen.

IIRC, you are painting over previous paint that is chalky. On an old
house. Lord knows how many coats of paint are on it but that old,
chalky paint is going to suck moisture out of the new paint. Put on
a coat, moisture is sucked; come back later and apply more paint
overlapping the old and you are going to get a stripe where they
overlap because the overlapped area has been sealed. Not hard to
understand. ...snip...

What?! retarding paint's drying changes its colour?

I didn't say that. *I did say that paint can take many days to completely
dry/cure and that the color and sheen won't be uniform until that time has
passed.
__________



! Difference in
sheen I believe. But that's due to the surface gumming up. I used to
use Easy OFF Window Cleaner, comes in an aerosol spray can, to lightly
mist the surface of latex and be able to brush over any variation
making it uniform, but alas, they've discontinued that product. *Used
to be able to use that product to go back hours later nd still make
corrections, too.

First, coat should be sensitive to what's underneath. That's why I
chose to water wash and physically scrub the old coat. Which did show
a colooured run off of chalky paint and dirt from wherever. I saw a
difference with the way the paint went on and recommend always
cleaning the base surface. But, the problem that prompted me to post
is NOT with respect to the first coat, but the second coat, which of
course is going over an almost acceptable surface of paint. *Second
coat was actually an experiment. I don't want to do two coats on this
house, too expensive, and too labor intensive.

Let me try to clarify...

1. First coat over existing, old, chalky paint. *Coat dries - dries, not
cures - relatively fast because old paint absorbed some moisture.

2. Second coat, partially lapping #1. *The lapped part is a different color
and/or sheen because the first coat under it has sealed the surface and the
lapped part is drying/curing more slowly than paint over the old, chalky
surface.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? *Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? *Check it out...http://www.floridaloghouse.net

I'm trying a new section that has been physically scrubbed with brush
and plain water. We'll see what happens over that.

I hope all these problems are just a matter of drying. However,

Where I put the two coats has the 'decidedly' obvious stripes ONLY
from the last coat. Been drying since I started this thread.

On the tower which was difficult to reach so I painted one half side,
waited three days, painted the other half; has absolutely NO line at
the overlap, but does appear to be two diffierent colors! Oh well, win
one lose one.

On Nov 4, 3:21*pm, Oren wrote:
On Sun, 4 Nov 2012 06:30:26 -0800 (PST), Robert Macy

wrote:
The more and more I look at this, the more and more I think I'm
fighting surface textural changes. Less coat - surface is slightly
rougher. More coat - the surface is slightly smoother. And, the eye is
quick to perceive a pattern, any pattern.

Has this wall been modified? *During construction that changed plans.

Maybe a different crew stuccoed the house and another made a repair.

I can see faults in some stucco houses around here. I'm lucky not to
have such a problem.

No appears to have been done all at one time. Plus, thiis specific
area is not large, around 8 feet high by 10 feet wide.

I have seen their starts and stops, but this is not it. Their patterns
are horizontal. My painting patterns are vertical, since I paint from
top to bottom.