In trying to apply paint to a 'sandy' type stucco finish:

Home previously spray painted with what appears to be extremely
watered Dunn Edwards flat Interior/Exterior so bleached by the sun
that there are tones lighter huge spotting, especially around cracking
stucco. [done in 2008]

So surface has essentially been primed. I asked the group and got a
good recommendation for readily available Behr Masonry Stucco paint
from Home Depot. The paint is thick, doesn't separate even days after
shake mixing, and covers with one coat.

I'm doing this myself, dont' want a lot of prep and mess and cleanup,
so deemed to use a brush and just do sections at a time with any
overlaps at corners/junctions, so won't show. I can do the painting in
shade, in evening, so sun won't accelerate drying before curing.

First problem is that it appeared that one gallon did around 80 sq
ft !!! I tried cutting back, but can't even begin to get paint down
into the 'holes' in the stucco. Have taken to poking at the wall with
the bristles of the brush which almost works.

Second problem is that the paint dries faster than I can move on.
Meaning one can get a 'gummy' overlap between small sections as you
move the ladder and scaffolding. Ok, I attributed that to very dry
base surface. When done with this first coat, stood back and looked at
it. Four days later, it still looked like I had used different colored
paint sources, and the surface had a 'blotched' appearance. Looked
like a quilt up on the wall consisting of square little 'islands' for
the different sections I had done as I had moved along.

Ok, first coat was a disaster so let's try it again. This time I added
2 oz of Floetrol to the half gallon of paint I was planning to use
[recommended 4 oz per gallon]. Half gallon should do 80 sq ft on a
second coat, right? WRONG! This time I moved as fast as possible. Set
the ladder start at the top and come down to the stone facade as fast
as possible, then move over and repeat until done. As I worked I
completely filled EVERY hole I could see and verified that the surface
had a nice wet sheen everywhere. This time I was moving so fast that
even the overlaps were successful - they still had their wet sheen
into the previously painted areas.

I can live with using excessive paint [this is NOT color coverage, but
liquid coverage] But I cannot live with the end result: As you stand
and look at the wall you see very obviously well defined 'strips' down
the wall. All the same color, but looks like sheets of wallpaper
overlapping at their edges around 4 inches!

It's been over 24 hours now with time to properly cure and dry and
even the sun has hit the wall now, yet the effect is still there!

I can't paint my house and have these ugly patterns left all over it
when I'm done. What am I doing wrong here?

Again spray paint is not an option [I have a $2,000 airless sprayer in
storage I don't have access to since I own one I'm not allowed to buy
another one]; rollers might be an option but the cleanup after doing
each section will be monumental, plus not sure the roller can get
paint down into all the nooks and crannies anyway. So, a brush is the
most convenient way that I'd like to stay with. So, why has this
turned into a fiasco? Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?
What am I doing wrong here?

On Nov 1, 9:10*am, Robert Macy wrote:
In trying to apply paint to a 'sandy' type stucco finish:

Home previously spray painted with what appears to be extremely
watered Dunn Edwards flat Interior/Exterior so bleached by the sun
that there are tones lighter huge spotting, especially around cracking
stucco. [done in 2008]

So surface has essentially been primed. I asked the group and got a
good recommendation for readily available Behr Masonry Stucco paint
from Home Depot. *The paint is thick, doesn't separate even days after
shake mixing, and covers with one coat.

I'm doing this myself, dont' want a lot of prep and mess and cleanup,
so deemed to use a brush and just do sections at a time with any
overlaps at corners/junctions, so won't show. I can do the painting in
shade, in evening, so sun won't accelerate drying before curing.

First problem is that it appeared that one gallon did around 80 sq
ft !!! *I tried cutting back, but can't even begin to get paint down
into the 'holes' in the stucco. Have taken to poking at the wall with
the bristles of the brush which almost works.

Second problem is that the paint dries faster than I can move on.
Meaning one can get a 'gummy' overlap between small sections as you
move the ladder and scaffolding. *Ok, I attributed that to very dry
base surface. When done with this first coat, stood back and looked at
it. Four days later, it still looked like I had used different colored
paint sources, and the surface had a 'blotched' appearance. Looked
like a quilt up on the wall consisting of square little 'islands' for
the different sections I had done as I had moved along.

Ok, first coat was a disaster so let's try it again. This time I added
2 oz of Floetrol to the half gallon of paint I was planning to use
[recommended 4 oz per gallon]. *Half gallon should do 80 sq ft on a
second coat, right? WRONG! *This time I moved as fast as possible. Set
the ladder start at the top and come down to the stone facade as fast
as possible, then move over and repeat until done. *As I worked I
completely filled EVERY hole I could see and verified that the surface
had a nice wet sheen everywhere. This time I was moving so fast that
even the overlaps were successful - they still had their wet sheen
into the previously painted areas.

I can live with using excessive paint [this is NOT color coverage, but
liquid coverage] But I cannot live with the end result: As you stand
and look at the wall you see very obviously well defined 'strips' down
the wall. All the same color, but looks like sheets of wallpaper
overlapping at their edges around 4 inches!

It's been over 24 hours now with time to properly cure and dry and
even the sun has hit the wall now, yet the effect is still there!

I can't paint my house and have these ugly patterns left all over it
when I'm done. What am I doing wrong here?

Again spray paint is not an option [I have a $2,000 airless sprayer in
storage I don't have access to since I own one I'm not allowed to buy
another one]; rollers might be an option but the *cleanup after doing
each section will be monumental, plus not sure the roller can get
paint down into all the nooks and crannies anyway. So, a brush is the
most convenient way that I'd like to stay with. So, why has this
turned into a fiasco? Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?
What am I doing wrong here?

Have you thought of spraying the walls with a hose before you paint to
have a damp base?

RENT a paint sprayer......

On Nov 1, 7:33*am, bob haller wrote:
RENT a paint sprayer......

sigh, don't want to do it ALL on one day, want to just do it
leisurely.

And from my experience with my sprayer, prep is incredible and drift
and overspray and ...

Got a lot of glass, frame and structures to contend with.

Only single story 4,000 sq foot home, with lots of architectural
features, so there are lots of 'break' points

On Nov 1, 7:22*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
...snip...
Have you thought of spraying the walls with a hose before you paint to
have a damp base?

kind of. I did think to scrub off the wall first and got a lot of
coloration coming off on the lower area of the walls.

When I told Paint people about the problem, they talked about making
certain the wall were clean AND dry.

Robert Macy wrote:

- HELP! what's going wrong here? -

Sorry - I don't know what's going on here.

You weren't more specific in your subject line, so I can't help you.

But congratulations.

You win today's "Bonehead Subject Line of the Day" award!

On Nov 1, 7:53*am, Home Guy wrote:
Robert Macy wrote:

*- *HELP! what's going wrong here? *-

Sorry - I don't know what's going on here.

You weren't more specific in your subject line, so I can't help you.

But congratulations.

You win today's "Bonehead Subject Line of the Day" award!

Wow! I didn't know there was a competition in that category. I'll try
to be MORE obtuse next time to maintain my award status.

On Nov 1, 1:24*pm, Robert Macy wrote:
On Nov 1, 7:53*am, Home Guy wrote:

Robert Macy wrote:

*- *HELP! what's going wrong here? *-

Sorry - I don't know what's going on here.

You weren't more specific in your subject line, so I can't help you.

But congratulations.

You win today's "Bonehead Subject Line of the Day" award!

Wow! I didn't know there was a competition in that category. I'll try
to be MORE obtuse next time to maintain my award status.

LOL

On Nov 1, 10:10*am, Robert Macy wrote:
In trying to apply paint to a 'sandy' type stucco finish:

Home previously spray painted with what appears to be extremely
watered Dunn Edwards flat Interior/Exterior so bleached by the sun
that there are tones lighter

So surface has essentially been primed.

Ha!

So, why has this
turned into a fiasco?

You don't know what you're doing.

Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?

Dirt, probably, but paint does not flow into cracks, crevices and
holes the way one might imagine, you have to force it in by back-
brushing even if you spray it.

What am I doing wrong here?

Operating too far beyond your area of expertise.
-----

- gpsman

On Nov 1, 8:02*am, gpsman wrote:
On Nov 1, 10:10*am, Robert Macy wrote:

In trying to apply paint to a 'sandy' type stucco finish:

Home previously spray painted with what appears to be extremely
watered Dunn Edwards flat Interior/Exterior so bleached by the sun
that there are tones lighter

So surface has essentially been primed.

Ha!

So, why has this
turned into a fiasco?

You don't know what you're doing.

Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?

Dirt, probably, but paint does not flow into cracks, crevices and
holes the way one might imagine, you have to force it in by back-
brushing even if you spray it.

What am I doing wrong here?

Operating too far beyond your area of expertise.
*-----

- gpsman

Operating too far beyond my expertise? By definition of results, true.
But, I know enough to ask.

I do have experience, and have experience in learning HOW to do. I
used to work for a professional home painter and learned all kinds of
tricks and tips, most people don't know about. To do the exterior of
our 5,000 square foot two story Edwardian house I purchased an
expensive paint sprayer . Had to prep that extensively, since it had
been allowed to deteriorate over the years before we got to it. One
side took 16 hours just to spray coat. Completely rebuilt the interior
putting it back to original as much as possible. Worked with
techniques and self taught to the extent that the local museum curator
had his restoration people come talk to me to see my workmanship and
find out how to do things the 'original' way for restoring their
buildings. [the house was built in 1906 using materials that boggle
your mind, like REAL 2 by 4's actually 2 by 4 in size, and hand sawn
wood timbers and planking.] One example, I showed them how to brush
paint yet obtain a surface as smooth as formica and always better than
spray painting. However, I did get close to that flatness by using an
artist's airbrush with variable spray pattern to do the 80+ frames in
the french doors..Beat 'hand cramp' any day.

The idea of dirt I considered first, so I scrubbed the wall section
the day before, but to no real improvement to the symptoms of my
problem. Plus, the problem that prompted me to post here today has
just occurred over a new layer of paint unlikely to have been caused
by dirt.

As far as nooks and crannies go, I kind of thought that if the brush
can't fill that then a roller would fare no better. Even spray
painting will have its ability challenged to fill well.

Robert Macy wrote:
On Nov 1, 8:02 am, gpsman wrote:
On Nov 1, 10:10 am, Robert Macy wrote:

In trying to apply paint to a 'sandy' type stucco finish:

Home previously spray painted with what appears to be extremely
watered Dunn Edwards flat Interior/Exterior so bleached by the sun
that there are tones lighter

So surface has essentially been primed.

Ha!

So, why has this
turned into a fiasco?

You don't know what you're doing.

Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?

Dirt, probably, but paint does not flow into cracks, crevices and
holes the way one might imagine, you have to force it in by back-
brushing even if you spray it.

What am I doing wrong here?

Operating too far beyond your area of expertise.
-----

- gpsman

Operating too far beyond my expertise? By definition of results, true.
But, I know enough to ask.

I do have experience, and have experience in learning HOW to do. I
used to work for a professional home painter and learned all kinds of
tricks and tips, most people don't know about. To do the exterior of
our 5,000 square foot two story Edwardian house I purchased an
expensive paint sprayer . Had to prep that extensively, since it had
been allowed to deteriorate over the years before we got to it. One
side took 16 hours just to spray coat. Completely rebuilt the interior
putting it back to original as much as possible. Worked with
techniques and self taught to the extent that the local museum curator
had his restoration people come talk to me to see my workmanship and
find out how to do things the 'original' way for restoring their
buildings. [the house was built in 1906 using materials that boggle
your mind, like REAL 2 by 4's actually 2 by 4 in size, and hand sawn
wood timbers and planking.] One example, I showed them how to brush
paint yet obtain a surface as smooth as formica and always better than
spray painting. However, I did get close to that flatness by using an
artist's airbrush with variable spray pattern to do the 80+ frames in
the french doors..Beat 'hand cramp' any day.

The idea of dirt I considered first, so I scrubbed the wall section
the day before, but to no real improvement to the symptoms of my
problem. Plus, the problem that prompted me to post here today has
just occurred over a new layer of paint unlikely to have been caused
by dirt.

As far as nooks and crannies go, I kind of thought that if the brush
can't fill that then a roller would fare no better. Even spray
painting will have its ability challenged to fill well.

I would have wet it and noticed how water flowed and stuck. Wondering about
waterproofing ?

I brushed half my cinderblock with same paint. No noticeable color changes.
Slap paint on, then tap into holes. I did stir the paint.

Greg

On Nov 1, 6:06*pm, gregz wrote:
...snip...
I would have wet it and noticed how water flowed and stuck. Wondering about
waterproofing ?

I brushed half my cinderblock with same paint. No noticeable color changes.
Slap paint on, then tap into holes. I did stir the paint.

Greg

I will try that on the first coat areas. but the problem that prompted
me to post today was from watching stripes appear on the coat over a
fairly solid first coat.

When I called back to HD, the Home Depot paint people asked me if the
wall was clean 'and' dry. However, Ms Macy suggested, as you did,
scrub the dirt and powdered old finish off the wall and then wet the
wall before you paint it.

I'm going to try more Floetrol AND wet the old surface first.

First problem was that he was only getting 80 square feet of coverage per gallon. I expect that's because the surface of your stucco is porous, and so the moisture in the elastomeric coating is BOTH being wicked into the stucco and evaporating into the air. So, it's drying considerably faster than it would if it were being brushed onto a non-porous substrate.

It would have been better to prime the stucco first to prevent the water from the elastomeric coating from being sucked into the stucco. Or, at least, that's what I think is going on with the low coverage you're getting.

What you're describing is typical of insufficient hide in the paint you're using. In painting interior walls where you cut in around the perimeter of the wall or ceiling with a brush and then fill in that area with a roller, the result of insufficient hide will result in a phenomenon called the "picture framing effect". That's caused by the perimeter of the wall or ceiling (where the two coats of paint overlap) having a noticably increased colour density than the area covered by only a single coat.


When a paint fails to completely hide the colour of the substrate, what's actually happening is that incident light is traveling through the paint film, reflecting off the substrate and traveling back through the paint film to your eye. Complete hide is achieved when none of light you see coming from the painted surface is light that reflected off the substrate. That means that either the incident light doesn't make it far enough through the paint to reach the substrate, or any reflected light doesn't make it all the way out of the paint film. Either way, the colour of the substrate doesn't affect the light you see emanating from the painted surface. When you have complete hide of the substrate, there won't be any difference in colour density between n, n+1 or n+20 coats of paint. That's cuz in none of those cases is the light you see coming from the paint being affected by the colour of the substrate.

Cutting in with a brush, and then filling in with a roller, and looking for that picture framing effect is the way I decided on the paint I was going to use in my apartments. Pratt & Lambert Accolade Satin was the only SATIN paint I could find that would give me complete hide in one coat. Several eggshell and one or two velvet paints would give me complete hide in one coat, but P&L Accolade Satin provides a smoother, easier to clean finish, and still provided complete hide in one coat.

Now what's happened is that you're not getting the absorbtion of the water into the stucco any more (cuz the first coat is acting like a primer/sealer), so your elastomeric coating isn't drying as quickly on you. (You thought you were painting faster on the second coat, but I expect the credit really should be going to the paint drying slower than with the first coat cuz the second coat wasn't being wicked into the stucco like the first coat was.)

You're also probably getting close to complete hide with two coats, and in those vertical bands where those second coats overlap (and you have more than two coats), you're also getting better gloss development because the elastomeric coating is drying slower (more normally) and the first two coats have filled in the surface roughness of the stucco, thereby providing a smoother substrate for paint that overlapped along those vertical bands.

I'm thinking a third coat with a brush or roller should result in your getting a coating of uniform colour density and gloss level over the entire coating surface.

On subsequent walls, if it wuz me, I would use a latex primer to seal your stucco first. That'll prevent the water in the coating from being wicked into the stucco.

Then do all your cutting in around windows and along edges with a brush. Maybe cut in a second time around the left or right sides of the windows and doors and see if you see any difference in colour density between the sides that have two coats and the sides that only have one. Keep applying coats until you cannot distinguish the difference in colour density between n and n+1 coats. Then you know you have complete hide.

Now, apply multiple coats with a roller sleeve rather than a brush to speed up the painting process. Or, apply the first coat with a brush to fill in all the holes, and then apply subsequent coats with a roller sleeve. Not saying there's anything wrong with painting with a brush, but if a roller will give you faster paint application, I see no reason not to use a roller instead of a brush.

On Thu, 1 Nov 2012 07:10:30 -0700 (PDT), Robert Macy
wrote:

So, a brush is the
most convenient way that I'd like to stay with. So, why has this
turned into a fiasco? Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?
What am I doing wrong here?

Get some thick nap roller covers (1/2-3/4 inch) and roll the paint on.

I'd still like to see a photo of your stucco texture. Is it really a
sand finish or a light knock-down texture?

Are you following the paint can label for proper temperatures?

On Nov 1, 9:10*am, Robert Macy wrote:
In trying to apply paint to a 'sandy' type stucco finish:

Home previously spray painted with what appears to be extremely
watered Dunn Edwards flat Interior/Exterior so bleached by the sun
that there are tones lighter huge spotting, especially around cracking
stucco. [done in 2008]

So surface has essentially been primed. I asked the group and got a
good recommendation for readily available Behr Masonry Stucco paint
from Home Depot. *The paint is thick, doesn't separate even days after
shake mixing, and covers with one coat.

I'm doing this myself, dont' want a lot of prep and mess and cleanup,
so deemed to use a brush and just do sections at a time with any
overlaps at corners/junctions, so won't show. I can do the painting in
shade, in evening, so sun won't accelerate drying before curing.

First problem is that it appeared that one gallon did around 80 sq
ft !!! *I tried cutting back, but can't even begin to get paint down
into the 'holes' in the stucco. Have taken to poking at the wall with
the bristles of the brush which almost works.

Second problem is that the paint dries faster than I can move on.
Meaning one can get a 'gummy' overlap between small sections as you
move the ladder and scaffolding. *Ok, I attributed that to very dry
base surface. When done with this first coat, stood back and looked at
it. Four days later, it still looked like I had used different colored
paint sources, and the surface had a 'blotched' appearance. Looked
like a quilt up on the wall consisting of square little 'islands' for
the different sections I had done as I had moved along.

Ok, first coat was a disaster so let's try it again. This time I added
2 oz of Floetrol to the half gallon of paint I was planning to use
[recommended 4 oz per gallon]. *Half gallon should do 80 sq ft on a
second coat, right? WRONG! *This time I moved as fast as possible. Set
the ladder start at the top and come down to the stone facade as fast
as possible, then move over and repeat until done. *As I worked I
completely filled EVERY hole I could see and verified that the surface
had a nice wet sheen everywhere. This time I was moving so fast that
even the overlaps were successful - they still had their wet sheen
into the previously painted areas.

I can live with using excessive paint [this is NOT color coverage, but
liquid coverage] But I cannot live with the end result: As you stand
and look at the wall you see very obviously well defined 'strips' down
the wall. All the same color, but looks like sheets of wallpaper
overlapping at their edges around 4 inches!

It's been over 24 hours now with time to properly cure and dry and
even the sun has hit the wall now, yet the effect is still there!

I can't paint my house and have these ugly patterns left all over it
when I'm done. What am I doing wrong here?

Again spray paint is not an option [I have a $2,000 airless sprayer in
storage I don't have access to since I own one I'm not allowed to buy
another one]; rollers might be an option but the *cleanup after doing
each section will be monumental, plus not sure the roller can get
paint down into all the nooks and crannies anyway. So, a brush is the
most convenient way that I'd like to stay with. So, why has this
turned into a fiasco? Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?
What am I doing wrong here?

Are you sure the paint is fully dry? If it went on as thick as you
said, there may be dampness under what appears to be a dry surface,
and that dampness would be where there is an overlap and the paint is
the thickest.

On Nov 1, 11:46*am, "hr(bob) "
wrote:
...snip...
Are you sure the paint is fully dry? *If it went on as thick as you
said, there may be dampness under what appears to be a dry surface,
and that dampness would be where there is an overlap and the paint is
the thickest.

Good point! I am watching to see if the effect is mitigating over
time.

I fear that what I am seeing is a subtle effect of slightly smoothing
an otherwise rough coating and THAT simply shows up as a shiny line
about 4 inches wide of vertical strips down the wall. When the sun is
on the wall the lines are very pronounced, when the wall is completely
shaded, not so much, but still discernible.

I have absolutely NO idea how to solve this other than bite the bullet
and spray the ****** out of it.

In article
,
Robert Macy wrote:

I have absolutely NO idea how to solve this other than bite the bullet
and spray the ****** out of it.

I've been waiting for the stucco experts to come out and tell you that
you aren't supposed to paint stucco.

On Nov 1, 10:00*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
*Robert Macy wrote:

I have absolutely NO idea how to solve this other than bite the bullet
and spray the ****** out of it.

I've been waiting for the stucco experts to come out and tell you that
you aren't supposed to paint stucco.

Say what?! Sounds good to me, but stucco absorbs rain like you
wouldn't believe, stays wet for long time, and I swear smells moldy
afterwards. Solution is to paint [read that as seal the surface and
seal all those thousands of cracks]

Not supposed to paint? Is there a URL that explains?

In article
,
Robert Macy wrote:

On Nov 1, 10:00*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
*Robert Macy wrote:

I have absolutely NO idea how to solve this other than bite the bullet
and spray the ****** out of it.

I've been waiting for the stucco experts to come out and tell you that
you aren't supposed to paint stucco.

Say what?! Sounds good to me, but stucco absorbs rain like you
wouldn't believe, stays wet for long time, and I swear smells moldy
afterwards. Solution is to paint [read that as seal the surface and
seal all those thousands of cracks]

Not supposed to paint? Is there a URL that explains?

This seems to be one of those "is duct tape a lubricant" issues. It's
been discussed several times here, and you can search the archives. The
position of the nay-sayers is this:

shawnbennett wrote:
DO NOT PAINT YOUR STUCCO!! You may as well wrap your house in plastic
wrap, it will not breath and you WILL get mold. Stucco should never be
painted. If you want the cracks fixed and maybe a updated texture, then a
restucco is what you need. Depending on the stucco , you can fog coat it.
But if you like painting every 3 years , go ahead and paint but you will
be cleaning mold off of your window sills and the mold will strt to grow
in the stucco along the bottom of the wall because there is no where for
the humidity to go. Call 3 or 4 stucco contractors and you will see that
generally a restucco is 25% cheaper than paint and if its done right , it
should last you a lifetime.

Robert Macy wrote:
In trying to apply paint to a 'sandy' type stucco finish:

Home previously spray painted with what appears to be extremely
watered Dunn Edwards flat Interior/Exterior so bleached by the sun
that there are tones lighter huge spotting, especially around cracking
stucco. [done in 2008]

So surface has essentially been primed. I asked the group and got a
good recommendation for readily available Behr Masonry Stucco paint
from Home Depot. The paint is thick, doesn't separate even days after
shake mixing, and covers with one coat.

I'm doing this myself, dont' want a lot of prep and mess and cleanup,
so deemed to use a brush and just do sections at a time with any
overlaps at corners/junctions, so won't show. I can do the painting in
shade, in evening, so sun won't accelerate drying before curing.

First problem is that it appeared that one gallon did around 80 sq
ft !!! I tried cutting back, but can't even begin to get paint down
into the 'holes' in the stucco. Have taken to poking at the wall with
the bristles of the brush which almost works.

Second problem is that the paint dries faster than I can move on.
Meaning one can get a 'gummy' overlap between small sections as you
move the ladder and scaffolding. Ok, I attributed that to very dry
base surface. When done with this first coat, stood back and looked at
it. Four days later, it still looked like I had used different colored
paint sources, and the surface had a 'blotched' appearance. Looked
like a quilt up on the wall consisting of square little 'islands' for
the different sections I had done as I had moved along.

Ok, first coat was a disaster so let's try it again. This time I added
2 oz of Floetrol to the half gallon of paint I was planning to use
[recommended 4 oz per gallon]. Half gallon should do 80 sq ft on a
second coat, right? WRONG! This time I moved as fast as possible. Set
the ladder start at the top and come down to the stone facade as fast
as possible, then move over and repeat until done. As I worked I
completely filled EVERY hole I could see and verified that the surface
had a nice wet sheen everywhere. This time I was moving so fast that
even the overlaps were successful - they still had their wet sheen
into the previously painted areas.

I can live with using excessive paint [this is NOT color coverage, but
liquid coverage] But I cannot live with the end result: As you stand
and look at the wall you see very obviously well defined 'strips' down
the wall. All the same color, but looks like sheets of wallpaper
overlapping at their edges around 4 inches!

It's been over 24 hours now with time to properly cure and dry and
even the sun has hit the wall now, yet the effect is still there!

I can't paint my house and have these ugly patterns left all over it
when I'm done. What am I doing wrong here?

Again spray paint is not an option [I have a $2,000 airless sprayer in
storage I don't have access to since I own one I'm not allowed to buy
another one]; rollers might be an option but the cleanup after doing
each section will be monumental, plus not sure the roller can get
paint down into all the nooks and crannies anyway. So, a brush is the
most convenient way that I'd like to stay with. So, why has this
turned into a fiasco? Why can't these walls be painted with a brush?
What am I doing wrong here?

You aren't waiting long enough. Your paint is going to take a month or more
to totally cure and until it does you can expect to see variation in areas
caused by more/less paint.

--

dadiOH
____________________________

Winters getting colder? Tired of the rat race?
Maybe just ready for a change? Check it out...
http://www.floridaloghouse.net

On Nov 2, 6:24*am, "dadiOH" wrote:
...snip...
You aren't waiting long enough. *Your paint is going to take a month or more
to totally cure and until it does you can expect to see variation in areas
caused by more/less paint.
...snip....

I hope you're right. Trusting, I will now forge ahead!