Yesterday, I went and started the job. Started to work on the first trailer.
Someone had already drained most of the water. I'm going back to use my blow
out adaptor, to be sure. And anti freeze the traps.

I learned that it's necessary to open all the outside compartments,
squirrels fill them with hay, straw and shelled corn.

Wear knee pads for the outside work, or your knees get wet from grass, or
abraded from the asphalt.

Carry a writing tablet, and take a lot of notes. Memory fails quickly, and
this will be a help in the spring when time to reopen the trailers.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/17/2012 8:37 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Yesterday, I went and started the job. Started to work on the first trailer.
Someone had already drained most of the water. I'm going back to use my blow
out adaptor, to be sure. And anti freeze the traps.

I learned that it's necessary to open all the outside compartments,
squirrels fill them with hay, straw and shelled corn.

Wear knee pads for the outside work, or your knees get wet from grass, or
abraded from the asphalt.

Carry a writing tablet, and take a lot of notes. Memory fails quickly, and
this will be a help in the spring when time to reopen the trailers.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org

I've heard that blowing out the water systems is not sufficient
winterization ... you must run pink antifreeze through both the hot and
cold water lines. It was said that water can gather or hide in low
spots creating a place where it can freeze, expand and break the pipe.
I don't know if I believe it or not, so I've always pumped through the
pink stuff. I guess if you do it for a sufficiently long time, it
should eventually get it all out. I remember at the building I used to
work (suburb of Chicago) they would connect a large compressor, like the
trailer mounted ones for jack hammers, to the sprinkler system and let
it run for seemingly hours. Mist would continue coming out for a really
long time. I usually blow out my garden hoses for the winter, however,
I know there is still a little water left behind.

Well, that's a concern. I sure don't want freeze broken pipes. How to get
the antifreeze in? Buy some kind of pump?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Art Todesco" wrote in message
...

I've heard that blowing out the water systems is not sufficient
winterization ... you must run pink antifreeze through both the hot and
cold water lines. It was said that water can gather or hide in low
spots creating a place where it can freeze, expand and break the pipe.
I don't know if I believe it or not, so I've always pumped through the
pink stuff. I guess if you do it for a sufficiently long time, it
should eventually get it all out. I remember at the building I used to
work (suburb of Chicago) they would connect a large compressor, like the
trailer mounted ones for jack hammers, to the sprinkler system and let
it run for seemingly hours. Mist would continue coming out for a really
long time. I usually blow out my garden hoses for the winter, however,
I know there is still a little water left behind.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Well, that's a concern. I sure don't want freeze broken pipes. How to get
the antifreeze in? Buy some kind of pump?

Use an inexpensive submersible utility pump with a garden hose type
output connection. Place the pump in a 5gal bucket and add antifreeze as
needed.

My recommendation would be to pump AF into the system, then drain the
system recovering the AF to use on the next trailer which should leave
just the AF in whatever low spots there are and minimize the use of the
somewhat expensive AF. Don't forget to drain the water heater.

When I winterize my camper I blow it out with compressed air, but I let
it run most of the day so there isn't much residual water left. It also
doesn't get super cold here in N TX.

Thanks. I've got an inquiry or two in, and that might just be the case. Now,
how does one pump pink stuff in? One fellow suggested a submersible pump in
a bucket. You know, that might work. I've got a portable sprayer that might
work. Or, a couple gallon pump sprayer, and some plumbing adaptors.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Art Todesco" wrote in message
...

I've heard that blowing out the water systems is not sufficient
winterization ... you must run pink antifreeze through both the hot and
cold water lines. It was said that water can gather or hide in low
spots creating a place where it can freeze, expand and break the pipe.
I don't know if I believe it or not, so I've always pumped through the
pink stuff. I guess if you do it for a sufficiently long time, it
should eventually get it all out. I remember at the building I used to
work (suburb of Chicago) they would connect a large compressor, like the
trailer mounted ones for jack hammers, to the sprinkler system and let
it run for seemingly hours. Mist would continue coming out for a really
long time. I usually blow out my garden hoses for the winter, however,
I know there is still a little water left behind.

That can work. I've also some where around here got a two gal garden
sprayer. The water heaters are supposed to have a bypass valve, so I can
drain the WH, and then pink the other lines. More to research, and learn.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Pete C." wrote in message
.com...

Use an inexpensive submersible utility pump with a garden hose type
output connection. Place the pump in a 5gal bucket and add antifreeze as
needed.

My recommendation would be to pump AF into the system, then drain the
system recovering the AF to use on the next trailer which should leave
just the AF in whatever low spots there are and minimize the use of the
somewhat expensive AF. Don't forget to drain the water heater.

When I winterize my camper I blow it out with compressed air, but I let
it run most of the day so there isn't much residual water left. It also
doesn't get super cold here in N TX.

On Wed, 17 Oct 2012 18:57:32 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Thanks. I've got an inquiry or two in, and that might just be the case. Now,
how does one pump pink stuff in? One fellow suggested a submersible pump in
a bucket. You know, that might work. I've got a portable sprayer that might
work. Or, a couple gallon pump sprayer, and some plumbing adaptors.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Art Todesco" wrote in message
...

I've heard that blowing out the water systems is not sufficient
winterization ... you must run pink antifreeze through both the hot and
cold water lines. It was said that water can gather or hide in low
spots creating a place where it can freeze, expand and break the pipe.
I don't know if I believe it or not, so I've always pumped through the
pink stuff. I guess if you do it for a sufficiently long time, it
should eventually get it all out. I remember at the building I used to
work (suburb of Chicago) they would connect a large compressor, like the
trailer mounted ones for jack hammers, to the sprinkler system and let
it run for seemingly hours. Mist would continue coming out for a really
long time. I usually blow out my garden hoses for the winter, however,
I know there is still a little water left behind.


I use a funnel and a hose that threads onto the kitchen sink faucet if
the trailer does not have it's own water pump. Just pour in through
the kitchen tap till it comes out the far end drain. If it has a 12
volt pump I hust take off the inlet from the FW tank and screw on a
suction hose that I stick into the antifreeze jug.

"Pete C." wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:

Well, that's a concern. I sure don't want freeze broken pipes. How to get
the antifreeze in? Buy some kind of pump?

Use an inexpensive submersible utility pump with a garden hose type
output connection. Place the pump in a 5gal bucket and add antifreeze as
needed.

My recommendation would be to pump AF into the system, then drain the
system recovering the AF to use on the next trailer which should leave
just the AF in whatever low spots there are and minimize the use of the
somewhat expensive AF. Don't forget to drain the water heater.



Brilliant !

Greg

When I winterize my camper I blow it out with compressed air, but I let
it run most of the day so there isn't much residual water left. It also
doesn't get super cold here in N TX.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
That can work. I've also some where around here got a two gal garden
sprayer. The water heaters are supposed to have a bypass valve, so I can
drain the WH, and then pink the other lines. More to research, and learn.


I got a little sump pump that would work, and auto shut off when the bucket
gets low.

Greg

That's an excellent choice.

By some happy coincidence, I bought a Nomad sprayer years ago, for cleaning
equipment. I barely used it. Three galon tank, and discharges to a garden
hose fitting. I will try that today, and see if I can pink the water lines
on the trailers, with that.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"gregz" wrote in message
...

I got a little sump pump that would work, and auto shut off when the bucket
gets low.

Greg

Yesterday, I did some air pressure, blowing water out of lines. Also, check
air pressure in the tires. Several were about 15 or 20 PSI, should be more
like 50 PSI. Spray all the tires with Armor All. Help cut down on sun UV
damage.

A couple of the trailers have 12 volt marine batteries for some of the
appliances. And said batteries need charging. I've got a plug in charger,
might have to leave it over night, and then move it to the next trailer.

One of the batteries reads zero volts, won't give that any charger time.
Others are 10.5 or so, and will need a lot of time.

Will also get a chance to try out my Nomad portable sprayer, use it to pump
pink stuff into the lines.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/17/2012 9:48 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Well, that's a concern. I sure don't want freeze broken pipes. How to get
the antifreeze in? Buy some kind of pump?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Art Todesco" wrote in message
...

I've heard that blowing out the water systems is not sufficient
winterization ... you must run pink antifreeze through both the hot and
cold water lines. It was said that water can gather or hide in low
spots creating a place where it can freeze, expand and break the pipe.
I don't know if I believe it or not, so I've always pumped through the
pink stuff. I guess if you do it for a sufficiently long time, it
should eventually get it all out. I remember at the building I used to
work (suburb of Chicago) they would connect a large compressor, like the
trailer mounted ones for jack hammers, to the sprinkler system and let
it run for seemingly hours. Mist would continue coming out for a really
long time. I usually blow out my garden hoses for the winter, however,
I know there is still a little water left behind.

On mobile RVs, there is usually a DC pump used to pump clean water from
the holding tank to all the faucets, etc. I disconnect the side that
goes to the tank, connect a 3' piece of hose, to the pump and put it
into a jug of the pink stuff. I have to hold the jug about level with
the pump to provide priming. Then I just enable the pump and run each
faucet or toilet until it gets pink. This also can be used the fill the
sink traps. But, if you don't have an on-board fresh water tank, you
have to improvise. Electronic Goldmine has a nice little 12VDC pump
that develops 35PSI
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co...?number=G19026. With
the proper fittings, it should work well and for only $13. BTW, I have
2 of these pumps. I'm planning on putting a hot water loop in the house
to reduce the time it takes to get hot water at the furthest faucet from
the water heater.

Nomad pump works nicely. Takes about two galons of pink stuff per trailer.
Four gal did two trailers. Going back to Walmart to buy more pink stuff,
after I finish late lunch.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Yesterday, I did some air pressure, blowing water out of lines. Also, check
air pressure in the tires. Several were about 15 or 20 PSI, should be more
like 50 PSI. Spray all the tires with Armor All. Help cut down on sun UV
damage.

A couple of the trailers have 12 volt marine batteries for some of the
appliances. And said batteries need charging. I've got a plug in charger,
might have to leave it over night, and then move it to the next trailer.

One of the batteries reads zero volts, won't give that any charger time.
Others are 10.5 or so, and will need a lot of time.

Will also get a chance to try out my Nomad portable sprayer, use it to pump
pink stuff into the lines.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

You know, that's a good idea. I saw a couple 12 volt bilge pumps at Kmart,
a year or so ago. They could be pressed into service, if needed.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Art Todesco"
wrote in message ...


On mobile RVs, there is usually a DC pump used to pump clean water from
the holding tank to all the faucets, etc. I disconnect the side that
goes to the tank, connect a 3' piece of hose, to the pump and put it
into a jug of the pink stuff. I have to hold the jug about level with
the pump to provide priming. Then I just enable the pump and run each
faucet or toilet until it gets pink. This also can be used the fill the
sink traps. But, if you don't have an on-board fresh water tank, you
have to improvise. Electronic Goldmine has a nice little 12VDC pump
that develops 35PSI
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co...?number=G19026. With
the proper fittings, it should work well and for only $13. BTW, I have
2 of these pumps. I'm planning on putting a hot water loop in the house
to reduce the time it takes to get hot water at the furthest faucet from
the water heater.

What fittings ont hat pump? THreads, or smooth, or?? Hose barb?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Art Todesco"
wrote in message ...

But, if you don't have an on-board fresh water tank, you
have to improvise. Electronic Goldmine has a nice little 12VDC pump
that develops 35PSI
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co...?number=G19026. With
the proper fittings, it should work well and for only $13.

Got more pink stuff. I spent a few hours with my air compressor, blowing out
the lines. Rain tomorrow, perhaps. Might need to wait till Saturday or
Monday to pink the last three trailers. And then, disconnect the sewer
lines, and stow them. Thanks to all who offered wisdom and help.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Nomad pump works nicely. Takes about two galons of pink stuff per trailer.
Four gal did two trailers. Going back to Walmart to buy more pink stuff,
after I finish late lunch.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Yesterday, I did some air pressure, blowing water out of lines. Also, check
air pressure in the tires. Several were about 15 or 20 PSI, should be more
like 50 PSI. Spray all the tires with Armor All. Help cut down on sun UV
damage.

A couple of the trailers have 12 volt marine batteries for some of the
appliances. And said batteries need charging. I've got a plug in charger,
might have to leave it over night, and then move it to the next trailer.

One of the batteries reads zero volts, won't give that any charger time.
Others are 10.5 or so, and will need a lot of time.

Will also get a chance to try out my Nomad portable sprayer, use it to pump
pink stuff into the lines.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

I'd been thinking for last few years, that the government should not be
telling doctors what to prescribe, or what not to prescribe. But, you
worded
it a bit better than I was able to.

Someone told me years ago, you can only sue the govenment, with the
government's permission.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


Oh, you're talking about microchips? For a
moment, I thought you meant cable TV.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


On 10/18/2012 06:40 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Got more pink stuff. I spent a few hours with my air compressor, blowing out
the lines. Rain tomorrow, perhaps. Might need to wait till Saturday or
Monday to pink the last three trailers. And then, disconnect the sewer
lines, and stow them. Thanks to all who offered wisdom and help.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Nomad pump works nicely. Takes about two galons of pink stuff per trailer.
Four gal did two trailers. Going back to Walmart to buy more pink stuff,
after I finish late lunch.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote in message
...
Yesterday, I did some air pressure, blowing water out of lines. Also, check
air pressure in the tires. Several were about 15 or 20 PSI, should be more
like 50 PSI. Spray all the tires with Armor All. Help cut down on sun UV
damage.

A couple of the trailers have 12 volt marine batteries for some of the
appliances. And said batteries need charging. I've got a plug in charger,
might have to leave it over night, and then move it to the next trailer.

One of the batteries reads zero volts, won't give that any charger time.
Others are 10.5 or so, and will need a lot of time.

Will also get a chance to try out my Nomad portable sprayer, use it to pump
pink stuff into the lines.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.








--
Learn more about Mitt at:

http://www.landoverbaptist.org/2011/october/romney.html

Thanks, Chris. Hey, you know. That's a great name.

Should doctors have the right to prescribe heroin, or
LSD? Opium? Methamphetamine?

Curious to see what I think.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Thunderstorm Norm" wrote in message
...
I'd been thinking for last few years, that the government
should not be telling doctors what to prescribe, or what
not to prescribe. But, you worded it a bit better than I
was able to.

Someone told me years ago, you can only sue the
govenment, with the government's permission.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On Thu, 18 Oct 2012 19:19:29 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Thanks, Chris. Hey, you know. That's a great name.

Should doctors have the right to prescribe heroin, or
LSD? Opium? Methamphetamine?

Of course the other side of that is "why should they have to?"

Curious to see what I think.

You don't know? ;-)

On 10/18/2012 2:11 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
What fittings ont hat pump? THreads, or smooth, or?? Hose barb?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Art Todesco"
wrote in message ...

But, if you don't have an on-board fresh water tank, you
have to improvise. Electronic Goldmine has a nice little 12VDC pump
that develops 35PSI
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co...?number=G19026. With
the proper fittings, it should work well and for only $13.



Hose barb.

Thanks. Ought to be able to barb and clamp that onto tubing, and adapt to
the garden hose output.

For the moment, my Nomad sprayer is working reasonably well. Two trailers
done, so far. They each took two galons of pink, to flush the lines. I had
to go buy more jugs of pink.

This is a big learning experience, for me.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Art Todesco" wrote in message
...
On 10/18/2012 2:11 PM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
What fittings ont hat pump? THreads, or smooth, or?? Hose barb?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Art Todesco"
wrote in message ...

But, if you don't have an on-board fresh water tank, you
have to improvise. Electronic Goldmine has a nice little 12VDC pump
that develops 35PSI
http://www.goldmine-elec-products.co...?number=G19026. With
the proper fittings, it should work well and for only $13.



Hose barb.

On 10/19/2012 8:14 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
Thanks. Ought to be able to barb and clamp that onto tubing, and adapt to
the garden hose output.

For the moment, my Nomad sprayer is working reasonably well. Two trailers
done, so far. They each took two galons of pink, to flush the lines. I had
to go buy more jugs of pink.

This is a big learning experience, for me.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org

2 gallons seems like a lot, but then I've never done a so-called park
model. On my 31' motor home, it takes about 3/4 gallon to flow through
to the kitchen sink, bath sink, shower, toilet and 3' garden hose in one
of the basement compartments. The 1st time I did it, I know I 'wasted'
a lot, but now it's pretty routine. And, it's not quite as critical for
me, living in western NC as it was when living in the Chicago area. I
think I mentioned this in one of my previous replies, but you should
drain and bypass the water heater. That way you don't have to waste
pink stuff in the water heater.

I'm sure I've wasted a lot. Yes, you did mention to bypass the water heater.
Sadly, the two I've done so far, no sign of a bypass valve. A friend of mine
comments "these must be older models". I'm sure they are. I will probably
use a lot more pink, in that case.

So far, a couple of the trailers have outdoor shower. Flex hose, and hand
shower, outdoors. Must be so you can spritz off, after a day in beach sand,
before coming indoors? Washing the dog? Why would there be a flex hose and
hand shower in outdoor compartment?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Art Todesco"
wrote in message ...

2 gallons seems like a lot, but then I've never done a so-called park
model. On my 31' motor home, it takes about 3/4 gallon to flow through
to the kitchen sink, bath sink, shower, toilet and 3' garden hose in one
of the basement compartments. The 1st time I did it, I know I 'wasted'
a lot, but now it's pretty routine. And, it's not quite as critical for
me, living in western NC as it was when living in the Chicago area. I
think I mentioned this in one of my previous replies, but you should
drain and bypass the water heater. That way you don't have to waste
pink stuff in the water heater.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I'm sure I've wasted a lot. Yes, you did mention to bypass the water heater.
Sadly, the two I've done so far, no sign of a bypass valve. A friend of mine
comments "these must be older models". I'm sure they are. I will probably
use a lot more pink, in that case.

If you aren't draining the water heater and are only using 2 gal of AF
you aren't doing the job properly. The WH is going to be at least 5gal
capacity so without bypassing it will require at least 5gal of AF to
fill.

Again you do not need to leave the system completely full of AF either,
just ensure that any remaining liquid in the system is AF.

The proper efficient procedure would be:

- Turn off and disconnect the water supply
- Drain the system from the low point drains (open high point faucets to
let air in, a gallon or two should come out the drains)
- Drain the water heater (5 gal min should come out)
- Close the faucets and WH drain
- Use compressed air for ~1hr to blow remaining water out the low point
drains
- Pump AF into the system until it's flowing from the low point drains
(bucket there to catch it)
- Drain from the low point drains into the collection bucket
- Drain the WH into the collection bucket
- Close up the system
- Pour a cup or two of AF into each toilet or drain trap

This should leave only AF remaining in any low points in the system and
things properly winterized without leaving everything full of expensive
AF. Blowing all the water out first ensured you are diluting the AF as
little as possible so it is readily reusable on the next trailer.

The key thing to remember is that you do not have to have everything
full of AF to winterize it, you only have to replace any water that
can't be readily drained with AF, i.e. any low points in the plumbing.
Presuming small water heaters and not many low points in the plumbing
you should need perhaps 6-8 gal of AF overall to do all the trailers.

Thanks, I might print this off. What I'd been doing so far, is to hook up
compressed air. Burp out the various faucets. A couple have a WH drain
petcock, which gets opened. Burped out. And then, the pump with the pink
stuff, pink out all the faucets. Which pink takes care of the traps.

One or two, the WH drains via removing the anode. That's a bit more work,
bleed off the pressure, and then gravity drain. I found that removing the
anode while the system is still under air pressure, results in me needing to
go home for dry clothes. Lot of sediment particles in the WH, also.

I've not found a bypass valve behind the WH, any of the trailers. Not found
a low point drain, either. Must be older trailers?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Pete C." wrote in message
...

If you aren't draining the water heater and are only using 2 gal of AF
you aren't doing the job properly. The WH is going to be at least 5gal
capacity so without bypassing it will require at least 5gal of AF to
fill.

Again you do not need to leave the system completely full of AF either,
just ensure that any remaining liquid in the system is AF.

The proper efficient procedure would be:

- Turn off and disconnect the water supply
- Drain the system from the low point drains (open high point faucets to
let air in, a gallon or two should come out the drains)
- Drain the water heater (5 gal min should come out)
- Close the faucets and WH drain
- Use compressed air for ~1hr to blow remaining water out the low point
drains
- Pump AF into the system until it's flowing from the low point drains
(bucket there to catch it)
- Drain from the low point drains into the collection bucket
- Drain the WH into the collection bucket
- Close up the system
- Pour a cup or two of AF into each toilet or drain trap

This should leave only AF remaining in any low points in the system and
things properly winterized without leaving everything full of expensive
AF. Blowing all the water out first ensured you are diluting the AF as
little as possible so it is readily reusable on the next trailer.

The key thing to remember is that you do not have to have everything
full of AF to winterize it, you only have to replace any water that
can't be readily drained with AF, i.e. any low points in the plumbing.
Presuming small water heaters and not many low points in the plumbing
you should need perhaps 6-8 gal of AF overall to do all the trailers.

Stormin Mormon wrote:

Thanks, I might print this off. What I'd been doing so far, is to hook up
compressed air. Burp out the various faucets. A couple have a WH drain
petcock, which gets opened. Burped out. And then, the pump with the pink
stuff, pink out all the faucets. Which pink takes care of the traps.

One or two, the WH drains via removing the anode. That's a bit more work,
bleed off the pressure, and then gravity drain. I found that removing the
anode while the system is still under air pressure, results in me needing to
go home for dry clothes. Lot of sediment particles in the WH, also.

I've not found a bypass valve behind the WH, any of the trailers. Not found
a low point drain, either. Must be older trailers?

Bypass valves seem to not be standard equipment on most RVs, even though
the bypass kits sell for $20. There must be a low point drain somewhere
though.

I'd sure love to learn if there is a trick to finding the low point drain. I
havn't found one, yet.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Pete C." wrote in message news:5081705a$0$9248

Bypass valves seem to not be standard equipment on most RVs, even though
the bypass kits sell for $20. There must be a low point drain somewhere
though.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
I'm sure I've wasted a lot. Yes, you did mention to bypass the water heater.
Sadly, the two I've done so far, no sign of a bypass valve. A friend of mine
comments "these must be older models". I'm sure they are. I will probably
use a lot more pink, in that case.


I don't know how you would get the fluid through the hot water lines, but
it's good to put a little in the hot tank to make sure there is no pure
water. My 1988 park model has a bypass.

Greg

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
I'd sure love to learn if there is a trick to finding the low point drain. I
havn't found one, yet.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Pete C." wrote in message news:5081705a$0$9248

Bypass valves seem to not be standard equipment on most RVs, even though
the bypass kits sell for $20. There must be a low point drain somewhere
though.

My hot tank has a twist valve like radiator, outside, near bottom.

Greg

On Fri, 19 Oct 2012 08:31:58 -0500, "Pete C."
wrote:


Stormin Mormon wrote:

I'm sure I've wasted a lot. Yes, you did mention to bypass the water heater.
Sadly, the two I've done so far, no sign of a bypass valve. A friend of mine
comments "these must be older models". I'm sure they are. I will probably
use a lot more pink, in that case.

If you aren't draining the water heater and are only using 2 gal of AF
you aren't doing the job properly. The WH is going to be at least 5gal
capacity so without bypassing it will require at least 5gal of AF to
fill.


Mine was 3 gallons.
Again you do not need to leave the system completely full of AF either,
just ensure that any remaining liquid in the system is AF.

The proper efficient procedure would be:

- Turn off and disconnect the water supply
- Drain the system from the low point drains (open high point faucets to
let air in, a gallon or two should come out the drains)
- Drain the water heater (5 gal min should come out)
- Close the faucets and WH drain
- Use compressed air for ~1hr to blow remaining water out the low point
drains
- Pump AF into the system until it's flowing from the low point drains
(bucket there to catch it)
- Drain from the low point drains into the collection bucket
- Drain the WH into the collection bucket
- Close up the system
- Pour a cup or two of AF into each toilet or drain trap

This should leave only AF remaining in any low points in the system and
things properly winterized without leaving everything full of expensive
AF. Blowing all the water out first ensured you are diluting the AF as
little as possible so it is readily reusable on the next trailer.

The key thing to remember is that you do not have to have everything
full of AF to winterize it, you only have to replace any water that
can't be readily drained with AF, i.e. any low points in the plumbing.
Presuming small water heaters and not many low points in the plumbing
you should need perhaps 6-8 gal of AF overall to do all the trailers.

On Fri, 19 Oct 2012 09:46:56 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Thanks, I might print this off. What I'd been doing so far, is to hook up
compressed air. Burp out the various faucets. A couple have a WH drain
petcock, which gets opened. Burped out. And then, the pump with the pink
stuff, pink out all the faucets. Which pink takes care of the traps.

One or two, the WH drains via removing the anode. That's a bit more work,
bleed off the pressure, and then gravity drain. I found that removing the
anode while the system is still under air pressure, results in me needing to
go home for dry clothes. Lot of sediment particles in the WH, also.

I've not found a bypass valve behind the WH, any of the trailers. Not found
a low point drain, either. Must be older trailers?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
Not necessarily older, just cheaper.

Not sure if this did any good. I put the pressure gadget on, and then open
the sink in the kitchen. Farthest from the intake. When the pink came out of
the cold faucet, I put my hand over the aerator, and opened the hot. So the
pink was forced back into the hot tubing.

Also drained the water heater.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"gregz" wrote in message
...

I don't know how you would get the fluid through the hot water lines, but
it's good to put a little in the hot tank to make sure there is no pure
water. My 1988 park model has a bypass.

Greg

A couple had petcocks, and a couple had removable anodes. The anodes are a
PIA.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"gregz" wrote in message
...

My hot tank has a twist valve like radiator, outside, near bottom.

Greg

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
Not sure if this did any good. I put the pressure gadget on, and then open
the sink in the kitchen. Farthest from the intake. When the pink came out of
the cold faucet, I put my hand over the aerator, and opened the hot. So the
pink was forced back into the hot tubing.

Also drained the water heater.


I'm wondering if you opened the heater drain before you did the reverse
thing.
You would lose some fluid, but at least head toward the tank in reverse.

Greg

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"gregz" wrote in message
...

I don't know how you would get the fluid through the hot water lines, but
it's good to put a little in the hot tank to make sure there is no pure
water. My 1988 park model has a bypass.

Greg

Water heater drain was closed, when I did the reverse thing at the kitchen
sink faucet.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"gregz" wrote in message
...
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
Not sure if this did any good. I put the pressure gadget on, and then open
the sink in the kitchen. Farthest from the intake. When the pink came out
of
the cold faucet, I put my hand over the aerator, and opened the hot. So
the
pink was forced back into the hot tubing.

I'm wondering if you opened the heater drain before you did the reverse
thing.
You would lose some fluid, but at least head toward the tank in reverse.

Greg

On 10/19/2012 11:32 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'd sure love to learn if there is a trick to finding the low point drain. I
havn't found one, yet.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Pete C." wrote in message news:5081705a$0$9248

Bypass valves seem to not be standard equipment on most RVs, even though
the bypass kits sell for $20. There must be a low point drain somewhere
though.


I have a 2006 motor home and it does not have a low point drain.

Perhaps I'm not negligent, or insane, after all? Thanks.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Art Todesco" wrote in message
...
On 10/19/2012 11:32 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I'd sure love to learn if there is a trick to finding the low point drain.
I
havn't found one, yet.

I have a 2006 motor home and it does not have a low point drain.

One last trailer to pink, and disconnect the sewage hose. A couple of the
units, the sewage hose had plenty of, uh, sewage. The corrugated design of
the hose is guaranteed to trap some.

I'm using a LOT more pink than expected. I started with 6 jugs. Went back
and got 4 more, and then 4 more last night. I may be able to recover some
pink, in the spring. I'll save a couple empty jugs just in case. And will do
what I can with that.

Blowing out the lines before the pink, probably saved me a lot of diluted
pink. Also less likely to freeze lines.

Feral cats like dry catfood.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

On 10/20/2012 10:31 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
One last trailer to pink, and disconnect the sewage hose. A couple of the
units, the sewage hose had plenty of, uh, sewage. The corrugated design of
the hose is guaranteed to trap some.


If the trailer is set up as shown, in the linked photo, it's a lot
easier to get underneath, and drain the pipes.

http://www.missouritrailertrash.com/stilts.jpg


Or you could, put floats on it, and drive it to a warmer climate.

http://www.missouritrailertrash.com/hboat3.jpg

Not quite that bad, but they do have access, under. They do not have
skirting.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Bernie Ward" bernie.ward@hotmail wrote in message
...

If the trailer is set up as shown, in the linked photo, it's a lot
easier to get underneath, and drain the pipes.

http://www.missouritrailertrash.com/stilts.jpg


Or you could, put floats on it, and drive it to a warmer climate.

http://www.missouritrailertrash.com/hboat3.jpg