I've been asked to "winterize" a dozen or so trailers, at a camp site that
is only used in the summer. The trailers are one or possibly two bedroom,
with water and electric and sewer hook ups.

What are some of the things that need to be done? Is there a check list
online? What does such a winterizing cost?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

Stormin Mormon wrote:

I've been asked to "winterize" a dozen or so trailers, at a camp site that
is only used in the summer. The trailers are one or possibly two bedroom,
with water and electric and sewer hook ups.

What are some of the things that need to be done? Is there a check list
online? What does such a winterizing cost?

See for winterizing info: http://rv.net

The basics would be to shutoff and disconnect the water, drain water
heaters and use compressed air to blow most of the water out of the
water lines, and follow with a filling of RV antifreeze. RV antifreeze
is poured into drain traps, toilets, etc. as well to prevent freezing
there. Tools would be a compressor and adapter to fit the water line
connection, and a small pump to pump RV antifreeze into the lines. RV
antifreeze is a couple bucks a gal at Walmart and the like, and you'll
probably need a few gallons per unit if you don't fill the water heater.
It is common to put bypass fittings around water heaters on RVs to make
it easier to get antifreeze into the plumbing without filling the water
heater. You could potentially drain the water heater, blow out the
lines, pump in antifreeze letting the water heater fill, and then drain
the water heater again collecting the antifreeze back to use again.

On Sep 28, 9:14*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I've been asked to "winterize" a dozen or so trailers, at a camp site that
is only used in the summer. The trailers are one or possibly two bedroom,
with water and electric and sewer hook ups.

What are some of the things that need to be done? Is there a check list
online? What does such a winterizing cost?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

I'm sure you know how to use Google, so yes there are checklists on-
line along with YouTube videos and some procedures that are specific
to certain makes and models.

One thing to to keep in mind is that different manufacturers might
have different procedures for their different models. To be completely
confident that you are doing things correctly, it might make sense to
put together a list of the specific models that you will be working on
and get the procedure for each model from a dealer or the
manufacturer.

There are also forums such as RV.NET where owners discuss issues
realted to their trailers and RV's.

Another option is to go to a local trailer dealer (or 3) and asked if
they have a checklist that they give to their customers. I'm sure they
do.

However, in my opinion, I think that having the specific instructions
for each model would be the best way to go. You never know who has a
special valve or something hidden someplace that must be dealt with in
a specific manner. You don't want to get called back in the spring to
fix damage caused by not following the proper procedures.

I've been using Startpage, which is supposed to be more private, and less
tracking of users. Still, yes, I've found a few pages.

It hadn't occured to me, to check the models of the trailers, and see if
there are specific things to do. That's excellent idea, thank you. Nothing
like a call back in the spring for something I missed.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...

I'm sure you know how to use Google, so yes there are checklists on-
line along with YouTube videos and some procedures that are specific
to certain makes and models.

One thing to to keep in mind is that different manufacturers might
have different procedures for their different models. To be completely
confident that you are doing things correctly, it might make sense to
put together a list of the specific models that you will be working on
and get the procedure for each model from a dealer or the
manufacturer.

There are also forums such as RV.NET where owners discuss issues
realted to their trailers and RV's.

Another option is to go to a local trailer dealer (or 3) and asked if
they have a checklist that they give to their customers. I'm sure they
do.

However, in my opinion, I think that having the specific instructions
for each model would be the best way to go. You never know who has a
special valve or something hidden someplace that must be dealt with in
a specific manner. You don't want to get called back in the spring to
fix damage caused by not following the proper procedures.

There are a couple camper and RV places within reach of me, I'll go ask
them. Thanks, that's even better idea than any I'd had.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...


Another option is to go to a local trailer dealer (or 3) and asked if
they have a checklist that they give to their customers. I'm sure they
do.

These don't drive, they are pulled. Still, I'm sure the concept is the same.
My worry is missing something I didn't know, and then a lot of damage is
found in the spring, and I get blamed.

I agree, the big concern would be to clear the water lines, and put pink RV
antifreeze in all the traps, including floor drains and showers.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Pete C." wrote in message
...

See for winterizing info: http://rv.net

The basics would be to shutoff and disconnect the water, drain water
heaters and use compressed air to blow most of the water out of the
water lines, and follow with a filling of RV antifreeze. RV antifreeze
is poured into drain traps, toilets, etc. as well to prevent freezing
there. Tools would be a compressor and adapter to fit the water line
connection, and a small pump to pump RV antifreeze into the lines. RV
antifreeze is a couple bucks a gal at Walmart and the like, and you'll
probably need a few gallons per unit if you don't fill the water heater.
It is common to put bypass fittings around water heaters on RVs to make
it easier to get antifreeze into the plumbing without filling the water
heater. You could potentially drain the water heater, blow out the
lines, pump in antifreeze letting the water heater fill, and then drain
the water heater again collecting the antifreeze back to use again.

On Sep 28, 9:14*am, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:
I've been asked to "winterize" a dozen or so trailers, at a camp site that
is only used in the summer. The trailers are one or possibly two bedroom,
with water and electric and sewer hook ups.

What are some of the things that need to be done? Is there a check list
online? What does such a winterizing cost?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
*www.lds.org
.

You should make sure they are critter proofed too.

With people moving in and out in warm weather, the mice are more
likely to stay away. Once the cold and quiet begins, they may be
looking for a warm, safe place to set up "camp".

On 9/28/2012 6:13 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've been asked to "winterize" a dozen or so trailers, at a camp site that
is only used in the summer. The trailers are one or possibly two bedroom,
with water and electric and sewer hook ups.

What are some of the things that need to be done? Is there a check list
online? What does such a winterizing cost?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


All good suggestions. Here are some other possible things to do.

If the trailer has a fresh water tank and pump, after you drain the
tank, run the pump for a little while to clear any water in it.

check for an outside shower hatch and be sure to open it's valves while
you blow the lines with compressed air.

Now, before you add any antifreeze, look under the trailer and find the
low spot drain plug and remove it and let the remaining water drain.
Replace plug or cap.

If there is a shower with a head on a hose, open the head and let the
hose and head hang down as so any water trapped there will drain out
when you blow out the lines.

Take some pipe compound with you to smear on the threads of the hot
water tank drain. Do not leave the plug out, the threads will rust badly
over winter. Ask me how I know that.

As written already, now blow out the lines and then add RV antifreeze to
fill the traps for the sinks and shower, etc.

Paul

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 09:13:08 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've been asked to "winterize" a dozen or so trailers, at a camp site that
is only used in the summer. The trailers are one or possibly two bedroom,
with water and electric and sewer hook ups.

What are some of the things that need to be done? Is there a check list
online? What does such a winterizing cost?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


That should be easy for YOU!
Get on your knees and pray to the Mormon version of Jesus. Jesus will
then come and suck all the water out of the pipes.

We all know that JESUS SUCKS!!!!

Stormin Mormon wrote:

These don't drive, they are pulled. Still, I'm sure the concept is the same.
My worry is missing something I didn't know, and then a lot of damage is
found in the spring, and I get blamed.

I agree, the big concern would be to clear the water lines, and put pink RV
antifreeze in all the traps, including floor drains and showers.


I believe the only real differences from an RV would be the lack of
onboard fresh water holding tanks and pumps, and having bigger "normal"
water heaters.

Other winterizing I can think of would be ensuring refrigerators are off
and their doors propped open.


Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Pete C." wrote in message
...

See for winterizing info: http://rv.net

The basics would be to shutoff and disconnect the water, drain water
heaters and use compressed air to blow most of the water out of the
water lines, and follow with a filling of RV antifreeze. RV antifreeze
is poured into drain traps, toilets, etc. as well to prevent freezing
there. Tools would be a compressor and adapter to fit the water line
connection, and a small pump to pump RV antifreeze into the lines. RV
antifreeze is a couple bucks a gal at Walmart and the like, and you'll
probably need a few gallons per unit if you don't fill the water heater.
It is common to put bypass fittings around water heaters on RVs to make
it easier to get antifreeze into the plumbing without filling the water
heater. You could potentially drain the water heater, blow out the
lines, pump in antifreeze letting the water heater fill, and then drain
the water heater again collecting the antifreeze back to use again.

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 09:13:08 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've been asked to "winterize" a dozen or so trailers, at a camp site that
is only used in the summer. The trailers are one or possibly two bedroom,
with water and electric and sewer hook ups.

What are some of the things that need to be done? Is there a check list
online? What does such a winterizing cost?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.



In addition to the other posts, I wonder if you need to block up the
tires or add extra air? Might want to ask others if this is
necessary.

Aluminum screen wire, bandage shears,
and a lot of Arrow staple tacks?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"DerbyDad03" wrote in message
...

You should make sure they are critter proofed too.

With people moving in and out in warm weather, the mice are more
likely to stay away. Once the cold and quiet begins, they may be
looking for a warm, safe place to set up "camp".

Sounds like voice of experience. I'd been wondering how to drain the WH. On
full size trailers, often a tall 30 or so water tank, some have a household
40 gal. Drain plug? I'll remember to Rectorseal and teflon the plug, and put
it back. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Paul Drahn"
wrote in message ...

All good suggestions. Here are some other possible things to do.

If the trailer has a fresh water tank and pump, after you drain the
tank, run the pump for a little while to clear any water in it.

check for an outside shower hatch and be sure to open it's valves while
you blow the lines with compressed air.

Now, before you add any antifreeze, look under the trailer and find the
low spot drain plug and remove it and let the remaining water drain.
Replace plug or cap.

If there is a shower with a head on a hose, open the head and let the
hose and head hang down as so any water trapped there will drain out
when you blow out the lines.

Take some pipe compound with you to smear on the threads of the hot
water tank drain. Do not leave the plug out, the threads will rust badly
over winter. Ask me how I know that.

As written already, now blow out the lines and then add RV antifreeze to
fill the traps for the sinks and shower, etc.

Paul

You know, after hearing from you cult busters for so long, it's good to hear
that the Mormon Jesus is more powerful than just being imaginary. We're
making progress.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

wrote in message
...

That should be easy for YOU!
Get on your knees and pray to the Mormon version of Jesus. Jesus will
then come and suck all the water out of the pipes.

We all know that JESUS SUCKS!!!!

I sure hope they don't have holding tanks, that could be PIA, to drain them
and antifreeze them. Not sure what they have for water heaters. I plan to
disconnect the electric and water. Not sure if they have propane tanks, will
have to investigate that question.

Fridge propped open is excellent idea. Thank you.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Pete C." wrote in message
...

I believe the only real differences from an RV would be the lack of
onboard fresh water holding tanks and pumps, and having bigger "normal"
water heaters.

Other winterizing I can think of would be ensuring refrigerators are off
and their doors propped open.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
I've been asked to "winterize" a dozen or so trailers, at a camp site that
is only used in the summer. The trailers are one or possibly two bedroom,
with water and electric and sewer hook ups.

What are some of the things that need to be done? Is there a check list
online? What does such a winterizing cost?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Rec.outdoors.travel.RV hope that's right. Discussions going on. If you
watch several you tube videos, you might find they are mostly for newer
trailers. Older trailers might not be so friendly.

Quickly, empty all tanks, bypass hot water tank. Feed all RV lines,
including toilet through pump with RV antifreeze. Pour antifreeze in
drains.

That may or may not work. Might also need to put a little in all tanks to
be safe.

Greg

"Pete C." wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:

These don't drive, they are pulled. Still, I'm sure the concept is the same.
My worry is missing something I didn't know, and then a lot of damage is
found in the spring, and I get blamed.

I agree, the big concern would be to clear the water lines, and put pink RV
antifreeze in all the traps, including floor drains and showers.


I believe the only real differences from an RV would be the lack of
onboard fresh water holding tanks and pumps, and having bigger "normal"
water heaters.


My 33 foot trailer does have a water tank, and I just found that out. It's
a 1988.

Other winterizing I can think of would be ensuring refrigerators are off
and their doors propped open.


I leave windows open to breath, prevent humidity buildup, but still use
absorbers in damp climate.


Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Pete C." wrote in message
...

See for winterizing info: http://rv.net

The basics would be to shutoff and disconnect the water, drain water
heaters and use compressed air to blow most of the water out of the
water lines, and follow with a filling of RV antifreeze. RV antifreeze
is poured into drain traps, toilets, etc. as well to prevent freezing
there. Tools would be a compressor and adapter to fit the water line
connection, and a small pump to pump RV antifreeze into the lines. RV
antifreeze is a couple bucks a gal at Walmart and the like, and you'll
probably need a few gallons per unit if you don't fill the water heater.
It is common to put bypass fittings around water heaters on RVs to make
it easier to get antifreeze into the plumbing without filling the water
heater. You could potentially drain the water heater, blow out the
lines, pump in antifreeze letting the water heater fill, and then drain
the water heater again collecting the antifreeze back to use again.

I also needed ant hotels, but got rid of most of my problems, of wet wood.

rec.outdoors.travel-RV

Greg

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
Sounds like voice of experience. I'd been wondering how to drain the WH. On
full size trailers, often a tall 30 or so water tank, some have a household
40 gal. Drain plug? I'll remember to Rectorseal and teflon the plug, and put
it back. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.


I got at least a 50 gallon fresh white polyethelene tank. It's under the
bed. Only a 6 gallon hot tank.

My little trailer don't got nothing.

Greg

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
I sure hope they don't have holding tanks, that could be PIA, to drain them
and antifreeze them. Not sure what they have for water heaters. I plan to
disconnect the electric and water. Not sure if they have propane tanks, will
have to investigate that question.


Flush the toilet and look under. Got to have a tank. My tank is permanately
open to a hose to the sewer system. Stll good to add a little antifreeze.

Greg

Greg

I've found a couple checklists, and a couple Youtubes. All very helpful. I'm
going to have to inspect a couple of the trailers, and see if they have
holding tanks, water heater drains, etc. There are many different models,
for sure.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"gregz" wrote in message
...

Rec.outdoors.travel.RV hope that's right. Discussions going on. If you
watch several you tube videos, you might find they are mostly for newer
trailers. Older trailers might not be so friendly.

Quickly, empty all tanks, bypass hot water tank. Feed all RV lines,
including toilet through pump with RV antifreeze. Pour antifreeze in
drains.

That may or may not work. Might also need to put a little in all tanks to
be safe.

Greg

On 9/28/2012 9:13 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
I've been asked to "winterize" a dozen or so trailers, at a camp site that
is only used in the summer. The trailers are one or possibly two bedroom,
with water and electric and sewer hook ups.

What are some of the things that need to be done? Is there a check list
online? What does such a winterizing cost?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.


Just did mine yesterday. I made sure the black and gray tanks were
empty. Here at the house, I have a macerator/pump to pump the tanks
uphill to the septic tank clean out opening. If you have a sewer
connection, gravity does a nice job. Also, if there is a fresh water
tank, it must be emptied. If the units stay in the same place all year
with connected water, the tank is probably empty. As for the water
heater, you 1st operate the bypass valve and then pull the drain plug.
It empties faster if you pop open the over pressure valve. Now you pump
the pink antifreeze into all the water lines. I use the on-board pump,
which is usually used to pressurize the water system when using the
on-board water tank (now empty). I have a short length of hose that
connects to the input of the pump. Normally, it connected to the fresh
water tank, but you have to disconnect that. One end of the hose has a
fitting for the input of the pump, the other end is just cut clean. The
cut end goes into the jug of pink RV anti-freeze. You then enable the
pump on the RV control panel and run every faucet, both hot and cold,
until the pink comes out. The jug might have to be elevated a bit the
get the pump to prime. Don't forget the toilet and any outside hand
shower. Make sure enough of the pink stuff goes into each sink/show's
trap. Alternately, you can pour a cup or so, into each trap, right from
the jug. The toilet doesn't have a trap, so you only need to make sure
the pink stuff fills the water pipe.

As my unit is a motor home, and because I use the generator as a backup
for the house, I have a full 50 gallons of gas in the tank and it should
be treated with a fuel stabilizer. And, again, because the generator
might be used for emergency, the oil will be changed .... probably
tomorrow. I like to put a battery tender on the house battery to keep
it healthy. I don't let the normal power converter on, because some of
them tend to over charge the house battery. Also, because it is a
motor home, I have a 2nd battery tender on the vehicle battery. I also
turn off the propane tank. I think that's it.

Thanks, that looks like the complete list. I'm not sure if these units have
water heaters, or if they have holding tanks. maybe? Needs a lot more
research. They do have shore power, water hookup, and sewage drain tubes.

Careful to use good quality battery tenders. I had a float charger from
Harbor Freight kill a marine battery, one time. No fun at all.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Art Todesco" wrote in message
...

Just did mine yesterday. I made sure the black and gray tanks were
empty. Here at the house, I have a macerator/pump to pump the tanks
uphill to the septic tank clean out opening. If you have a sewer
connection, gravity does a nice job. Also, if there is a fresh water
tank, it must be emptied. If the units stay in the same place all year
with connected water, the tank is probably empty. As for the water
heater, you 1st operate the bypass valve and then pull the drain plug.
It empties faster if you pop open the over pressure valve. Now you pump
the pink antifreeze into all the water lines. I use the on-board pump,
which is usually used to pressurize the water system when using the
on-board water tank (now empty). I have a short length of hose that
connects to the input of the pump. Normally, it connected to the fresh
water tank, but you have to disconnect that. One end of the hose has a
fitting for the input of the pump, the other end is just cut clean. The
cut end goes into the jug of pink RV anti-freeze. You then enable the
pump on the RV control panel and run every faucet, both hot and cold,
until the pink comes out. The jug might have to be elevated a bit the
get the pump to prime. Don't forget the toilet and any outside hand
shower. Make sure enough of the pink stuff goes into each sink/show's
trap. Alternately, you can pour a cup or so, into each trap, right from
the jug. The toilet doesn't have a trap, so you only need to make sure
the pink stuff fills the water pipe.

As my unit is a motor home, and because I use the generator as a backup
for the house, I have a full 50 gallons of gas in the tank and it should
be treated with a fuel stabilizer. And, again, because the generator
might be used for emergency, the oil will be changed .... probably
tomorrow. I like to put a battery tender on the house battery to keep
it healthy. I don't let the normal power converter on, because some of
them tend to over charge the house battery. Also, because it is a
motor home, I have a 2nd battery tender on the vehicle battery. I also
turn off the propane tank. I think that's it.

On Fri, 28 Sep 2012 09:13:08 -0400, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

I've been asked to "winterize" a dozen or so trailers, at a camp site that
is only used in the summer. The trailers are one or possibly two bedroom,
with water and electric and sewer hook ups.

What are some of the things that need to be done? Is there a check list
online? What does such a winterizing cost?

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Drain all water, put antifreeze in all traps, seal all openings to
keep vermin out. If there are several close together $35 to $50 each
would do it.

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
Thanks, that looks like the complete list. I'm not sure if these units have
water heaters, or if they have holding tanks. maybe? Needs a lot more
research. They do have shore power, water hookup, and sewage drain tubes.

Careful to use good quality battery tenders. I had a float charger from
Harbor Freight kill a marine battery, one time. No fun at all.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org


When I acquired my old trailer last year, I was getting familiar with it.
In the spring I took out the battery, which was way beyond end of life. I
did not want o put a new one in. Everything works ok so far. I would figure
many trailers have batteries that really need attention if one expects
useful life. The power supply runs the propane heater, misc. Lights, and
the pump. Without battery.

Greg

The camp ground that called me, has 110 volt hook ups to the trailers, and
maybe 220 volt big camper plugs. I doubt I'll find any storage batteries.
Maybe, but who can tell? That's something I will need to check. Thank you.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"gregz" wrote in message
...

When I acquired my old trailer last year, I was getting familiar with it.
In the spring I took out the battery, which was way beyond end of life. I
did not want o put a new one in. Everything works ok so far. I would figure
many trailers have batteries that really need attention if one expects
useful life. The power supply runs the propane heater, misc. Lights, and
the pump. Without battery.

Greg

On 9/29/2012 7:35 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
The camp ground that called me, has 110 volt hook ups to the trailers, and
maybe 220 volt big camper plugs. I doubt I'll find any storage batteries.
Maybe, but who can tell? That's something I will need to check. Thank you.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org

I thought they all had batteries, however, I guess if you never go on
the road, you really can run all the lights, fridge (for control),
furnace on the converter. My fridge needs 12 volts when on the road for
control, while using propane to cool the inside (absorption type). That
brings up something I forgot. If there are batteries, their water level
should be checked and topped off with distilled water, if needed. Also,
if the fridge is on, it should be opened and left to dry out. Otherwise
it becomes a large mold incubator.

On 9/29/2012 4:35 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
The camp ground that called me, has 110 volt hook ups to the trailers, and
maybe 220 volt big camper plugs. I doubt I'll find any storage batteries.
Maybe, but who can tell? That's something I will need to check. Thank you.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...

When I acquired my old trailer last year, I was getting familiar with it.
In the spring I took out the battery, which was way beyond end of life. I
did not want o put a new one in. Everything works ok so far. I would figure
many trailers have batteries that really need attention if one expects
useful life. The power supply runs the propane heater, misc. Lights, and
the pump. Without battery.

Greg


If they have break-away switches, they have one or more battery!!!

Paul

On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:01:44 -0700, Paul Drahn
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 4:35 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
The camp ground that called me, has 110 volt hook ups to the trailers, and
maybe 220 volt big camper plugs. I doubt I'll find any storage batteries.
Maybe, but who can tell? That's something I will need to check. Thank you.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...

When I acquired my old trailer last year, I was getting familiar with it.
In the spring I took out the battery, which was way beyond end of life. I
did not want o put a new one in. Everything works ok so far. I would figure
many trailers have batteries that really need attention if one expects
useful life. The power supply runs the propane heater, misc. Lights, and
the pump. Without battery.

Greg


If they have break-away switches, they have one or more battery!!!

Paul
Most campground "trailers" today are "park models" and don't run
ANYTHING on 12 volts. There ARE some that uses real "travel trailers"
that do.

wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:01:44 -0700, Paul Drahn
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 4:35 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
The camp ground that called me, has 110 volt hook ups to the trailers, and
maybe 220 volt big camper plugs. I doubt I'll find any storage batteries.
Maybe, but who can tell? That's something I will need to check. Thank you.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...

When I acquired my old trailer last year, I was getting familiar with it.
In the spring I took out the battery, which was way beyond end of life. I
did not want o put a new one in. Everything works ok so far. I would figure
many trailers have batteries that really need attention if one expects
useful life. The power supply runs the propane heater, misc. Lights, and
the pump. Without battery.

Greg


If they have break-away switches, they have one or more battery!!!

Paul
Most campground "trailers" today are "park models" and don't run
ANYTHING on 12 volts. There ARE some that uses real "travel trailers"
that do.

Maybe today.

Greg

On Sun, 30 Sep 2012 00:12:49 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:01:44 -0700, Paul Drahn
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 4:35 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
The camp ground that called me, has 110 volt hook ups to the trailers, and
maybe 220 volt big camper plugs. I doubt I'll find any storage batteries.
Maybe, but who can tell? That's something I will need to check. Thank you.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...

When I acquired my old trailer last year, I was getting familiar with it.
In the spring I took out the battery, which was way beyond end of life. I
did not want o put a new one in. Everything works ok so far. I would figure
many trailers have batteries that really need attention if one expects
useful life. The power supply runs the propane heater, misc. Lights, and
the pump. Without battery.

Greg


If they have break-away switches, they have one or more battery!!!

Paul
Most campground "trailers" today are "park models" and don't run
ANYTHING on 12 volts. There ARE some that uses real "travel trailers"
that do.

Maybe today.

Greg
He's not working on them last year or ten years ago.

wrote:
On Sun, 30 Sep 2012 00:12:49 +0000 (UTC), gregz
wrote:

wrote:
On Sat, 29 Sep 2012 14:01:44 -0700, Paul Drahn
wrote:

On 9/29/2012 4:35 AM, Stormin Mormon wrote:
The camp ground that called me, has 110 volt hook ups to the trailers, and
maybe 220 volt big camper plugs. I doubt I'll find any storage batteries.
Maybe, but who can tell? That's something I will need to check. Thank you.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

wrote in message
...

When I acquired my old trailer last year, I was getting familiar with it.
In the spring I took out the battery, which was way beyond end of life. I
did not want o put a new one in. Everything works ok so far. I would figure
many trailers have batteries that really need attention if one expects
useful life. The power supply runs the propane heater, misc. Lights, and
the pump. Without battery.

Greg


If they have break-away switches, they have one or more battery!!!

Paul
Most campground "trailers" today are "park models" and don't run
ANYTHING on 12 volts. There ARE some that uses real "travel trailers"
that do.

Maybe today.

Greg
He's not working on them last year or ten years ago.

I have a 1988 park model hyline. Originally had gas refrigerator. Has 12
volt propane heater, gas water heater, as well as 120 volt 1000 watt
element. Battery, battery power supply, misc 12 volt lighting, and 120 volt
lighting. 12 volt water pump. It's 33 feet, but I guess there could be a
need if you were on the move. I bought it, and will never move it, unless I
win lottery.

I have various equipment manuals, but don't have the trailer manual, just a
simple flyer.

One of these days, probably Monday. I've got to get out and check a lot of
things. Do they have holding tanks? Do they have marine battery? Do they
have refrigerators? So many things I need to know, before making a
guestimate price estimate. Thank you for the very good ideas.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Art Todesco"
wrote in message ...

I thought they all had batteries, however, I guess if you never go on
the road, you really can run all the lights, fridge (for control),
furnace on the converter. My fridge needs 12 volts when on the road for
control, while using propane to cool the inside (absorption type). That
brings up something I forgot. If there are batteries, their water level
should be checked and topped off with distilled water, if needed. Also,
if the fridge is on, it should be opened and left to dry out. Otherwise
it becomes a large mold incubator.

You know, these don't get moved very often. They may possibly have break
away switches. I don't know, for sure. One more thing to check. Thank you.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Paul Drahn"
wrote in message ...

If they have break-away switches, they have one or more battery!!!

Paul

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
One of these days, probably Monday. I've got to get out and check a lot of
things. Do they have holding tanks? Do they have marine battery? Do they
have refrigerators? So many things I need to know, before making a
guestimate price estimate. Thank you for the very good ideas.


My guy does it for $40 , just the water stuff. Through the campsite, a
little more.

Greg

gregz wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
One of these days, probably Monday. I've got to get out and check a lot of
things. Do they have holding tanks? Do they have marine battery? Do they
have refrigerators? So many things I need to know, before making a
guestimate price estimate. Thank you for the very good ideas.


My guy does it for $40 , just the water stuff. Through the campsite, a
little more.

Greg

Plus antifreeze.

Greg

Went to the camp, spent about an hour and a half,
looking.

At least one has a black water tank. My guy said soeme
thing about fill the tank up, and then dump it all at once,
to try and wash the crap out. I've got some green
holding tank fluid, I wonder if it's a good idea to put
some green stuff and water in, one day. Come back
the next day and pull the drain valve open, and send
it all flying down the drain.

They have been putting a new diaper into the fridge
and freezer, to dessicate and deodorize. Ever heard
of this?

They have five trailers, looks like work on them for
two days. The anode seems to be needing a 1 1/8
socket, to drain the W.H.

We figure to top off the propane in the spring, close
the tank valves for the winter.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
Went to the camp, spent about an hour and a half,
looking.

At least one has a black water tank. My guy said soeme
thing about fill the tank up, and then dump it all at once,
to try and wash the crap out. I've got some green
holding tank fluid, I wonder if it's a good idea to put
some green stuff and water in, one day. Come back
the next day and pull the drain valve open, and send
it all flying down the drain.

They have been putting a new diaper into the fridge
and freezer, to dessicate and deodorize. Ever heard
of this?

They have five trailers, looks like work on them for
two days. The anode seems to be needing a 1 1/8
socket, to drain the W.H.

We figure to top off the propane in the spring, close
the tank valves for the winter.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

Only thing I have to say, nice to have an anode like that. My drain is a
twister like on a car radiator. Anode is way in back top. I'm sure I have a
magnesium anode, because it makes the water stinky and funky. It might very
well be original, 24 years old.

Greg

After 24 years of stinking up your water, your anode is probably mostly gone
away. I'd wonder how to check, see if it's still there.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..

"gregz" wrote in message
...

Only thing I have to say, nice to have an anode like that. My drain is a
twister like on a car radiator. Anode is way in back top. I'm sure I have a
magnesium anode, because it makes the water stinky and funky. It might very
well be original, 24 years old.

Greg

"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
After 24 years of stinking up your water, your anode is probably mostly gone
away. I'd wonder how to check, see if it's still there.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"gregz" wrote in message
...

Only thing I have to say, nice to have an anode like that. My drain is a
twister like on a car radiator. Anode is way in back top. I'm sure I have a
magnesium anode, because it makes the water stinky and funky. It might very
well be original, 24 years old.

Greg

I would have to unscrew from rear. Afraid it might break something. Some go
to aluminum anode. Magnesium promotes growth of bacteria making sulfur
smelling water. If tank is not kept at at least 135 degrees. 140 will kill
the bacteria, but still stinks. Have to flush first.

Greg

gregz wrote:
"Stormin Mormon" wrote:
After 24 years of stinking up your water, your anode is probably mostly gone
away. I'd wonder how to check, see if it's still there.

Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"gregz" wrote in message
...

Only thing I have to say, nice to have an anode like that. My drain is a
twister like on a car radiator. Anode is way in back top. I'm sure I have a
magnesium anode, because it makes the water stinky and funky. It might very
well be original, 24 years old.

Greg

I would have to unscrew from rear. Afraid it might break something. Some go
to aluminum anode. Magnesium promotes growth of bacteria making sulfur
smelling water. If tank is not kept at at least 135 degrees. 140 will kill
the bacteria, but still stinks. Have to flush first.

Greg

Fact that it stinks, means I still some anode left, but my water comes from
untreated well.

Greg