"Pete C." wrote:
Stormin Mormon wrote:

These don't drive, they are pulled. Still, I'm sure the concept is the same.
My worry is missing something I didn't know, and then a lot of damage is
found in the spring, and I get blamed.

I agree, the big concern would be to clear the water lines, and put pink RV
antifreeze in all the traps, including floor drains and showers.


I believe the only real differences from an RV would be the lack of
onboard fresh water holding tanks and pumps, and having bigger "normal"
water heaters.


My 33 foot trailer does have a water tank, and I just found that out. It's
a 1988.

Other winterizing I can think of would be ensuring refrigerators are off
and their doors propped open.


I leave windows open to breath, prevent humidity buildup, but still use
absorbers in damp climate.


Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
.

"Pete C." wrote in message
...

See for winterizing info: http://rv.net

The basics would be to shutoff and disconnect the water, drain water
heaters and use compressed air to blow most of the water out of the
water lines, and follow with a filling of RV antifreeze. RV antifreeze
is poured into drain traps, toilets, etc. as well to prevent freezing
there. Tools would be a compressor and adapter to fit the water line
connection, and a small pump to pump RV antifreeze into the lines. RV
antifreeze is a couple bucks a gal at Walmart and the like, and you'll
probably need a few gallons per unit if you don't fill the water heater.
It is common to put bypass fittings around water heaters on RVs to make
it easier to get antifreeze into the plumbing without filling the water
heater. You could potentially drain the water heater, blow out the
lines, pump in antifreeze letting the water heater fill, and then drain
the water heater again collecting the antifreeze back to use again.

I also needed ant hotels, but got rid of most of my problems, of wet wood.

rec.outdoors.travel-RV

Greg