I have a push button mounted on the stud next to the garage door. The
electrical wires are correctly connected to the push button and to the
garage-door opener because, when I push the button, the garage door
opens and closes.

The push button has suffered a dent so it needs to be replaced.

I have bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly.

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up. But, when I
push the button again. the door doesn't go down unless I disconnect
and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What kind of push
button do I need to buy?

"gcotterl" wrote
I have bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly.

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up. But, when I
push the button again. the door doesn't go down unless I disconnect
and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What kind of push
button do I need to buy?

I don't know what the new doors may be using, but my older opener just used
a simple doorbell button. About $1.

My older door opener did not have any safety interlocks like the new ones
do. Does it go down OK with the remote?

On Sat, 19 Mar 2011 21:36:06 -0700 (PDT), gcotterl
wrote:

I have a push button mounted on the stud next to the garage door. The
electrical wires are correctly connected to the push button and to the
garage-door opener because, when I push the button, the garage door
opens and closes.

The push button has suffered a dent so it needs to be replaced.

I have bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly.

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up. But, when I
push the button again. the door doesn't go down unless I disconnect
and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What kind of push
button do I need to buy?

You probably mounted the button upside down. Reverse it and you'll be
able to shut the door but not open it. You don't want it to open with
a button or someone will steal everything in your garage.

In article
,
gcotterl wrote:

I have a push button mounted on the stud next to the garage door. The
electrical wires are correctly connected to the push button and to the
garage-door opener because, when I push the button, the garage door
opens and closes.

The push button has suffered a dent so it needs to be replaced.

I have bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly.

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up. But, when I
push the button again. the door doesn't go down unless I disconnect
and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What kind of push
button do I need to buy?

You probably bought an ON/OFF pushbutton, and you probably need a
MOMENTARY pushbutton.

On Mar 19, 10:18*pm, "Ed Pawlowski" wrote:
"gcotterl" wrote

I have bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly.

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up. *But, when I
push the button again. the door doesn't go down unless I disconnect
and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. *What kind of push
button do I need to buy?

I don't know what the new doors may be using, but my older opener just used
a simple doorbell button. *About $1.

My older door opener did not have any safety interlocks like the new ones
do. *Does it go down OK with the remote?

Yes, the remote opens the door with one push and closes the door with
another push. Now, if the push button would do the same thing....

On 3/19/2011 11:36 PM, gcotterl wrote:
I have a push button mounted on the stud next to the garage door. The
electrical wires are correctly connected to the push button and to the
garage-door opener because, when I push the button, the garage door
opens and closes.

The push button has suffered a dent so it needs to be replaced.

I have bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly.

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up. But, when I
push the button again. the door doesn't go down unless I disconnect
and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What kind of push
button do I need to buy?

sounds like you bought a lighted doorbell button. Take the bulb out or
get one that is not lighted.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

No, Steve, I did not buy a lighted doorbell button.

My garage has two doors: a 16-foot wide sectional door (operated by
the garage-door opener) and a 32-inch wide back-door.

I'd like to put a push button beside each door so do I buy two
"momentary" push buttons?

Do "momentary" push-buttons have a different name? (The Lowes/Home
Depot people don't know what I'm talking about).
I

In ,
gcotterl typed:
I have a push button mounted on the stud next to the
garage door. The electrical wires are correctly
connected to the push button and to the garage-door
opener because, when I push the button, the garage door
opens and closes.

The push button has suffered a dent so it needs to be
replaced.

I have bought a new push button and attached the wires
correctly.

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up.
But, when I push the button again. the door doesn't go
down unless I disconnect and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What
kind of push button do I need to buy?

I you "bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly." then it
has to be the wrong or a defective pushbutton, right?

Since you gave no other information, I responded to the only information you
did give.

HTH,

Twayne`

gcotterl wrote in news:83cf2337-dfbb-4dc7-
:

No, Steve, I did not buy a lighted doorbell button.

My garage has two doors: a 16-foot wide sectional door (operated by
the garage-door opener) and a 32-inch wide back-door.

I'd like to put a push button beside each door so do I buy two
"momentary" push buttons?

Do "momentary" push-buttons have a different name? (The Lowes/Home
Depot people don't know what I'm talking about).
I

In my layman's view, this is how the garagedoor openers (pushbutton or
remote) work: There are 3 possible actions - open, stop, close. They
get used in that order and then start anew. In addition there are stops
at the top and bottom that only issue the stop order. A momentary signal
from the remote or from the doorbell-type button issue the action
commands. If you get a button switch that switches between on and off,
you are energizing the circuit(s) far too long if you only push the
button once. You have to push that button twice to have the same action
as the door bell with a single push and let go.

--
Best regards
Han
email address is invalid

On Mar 20, 6:29*am, gcotterl wrote:
No, Steve, I did not buy a lighted doorbell button.

My garage has two doors: a 16-foot wide sectional door (operated by
the garage-door opener) and a 32-inch wide back-door.

I'd like to put a push button beside each door so do I buy two
"momentary" push buttons?

Do "momentary" push-buttons have a different name? *(The Lowes/Home
Depot people don't know what I'm talking about).
I

Go down and ask for a doorbell button - that is what you need. AFAIK
all of them are momentary.

As for two buttons, no problem as long as you wire them both from the
opener itself. It would get complicated if you tried to wire them in
on the same run of wire.

Harry K

On Mar 20, 6:29*am, gcotterl wrote:
No, Steve, I did not buy a lighted doorbell button.

My garage has two doors: a 16-foot wide sectional door (operated by
the garage-door opener) and a 32-inch wide back-door.

I'd like to put a push button beside each door so do I buy two
"momentary" push buttons?

Do "momentary" push-buttons have a different name? *(The Lowes/Home
Depot people don't know what I'm talking about).
I

Ooops. They could be wired with one run of wire if it were a 3
conductor wire.

Harry K

On Sat, 19 Mar 2011 21:36:06 -0700 (PDT), gcotterl
wrote:

I have a push button mounted on the stud next to the garage door. The
electrical wires are correctly connected to the push button and to the
garage-door opener because, when I push the button, the garage door
opens and closes.

The push button has suffered a dent so it needs to be replaced.

I have bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly.

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up. But, when I
push the button again. the door doesn't go down unless I disconnect
and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What kind of push
button do I need to buy?
You need a non-lighted push button. I suspect, from the description
of your problem, that you bought a lighted one.

Ed Pawlowski wrote:


"gcotterl" wrote
I have bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly.

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up. But, when I
push the button again. the door doesn't go down unless I disconnect
and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What kind of push
button do I need to buy?

I don't know what the new doors may be using, but my older opener just
used
a simple doorbell button. About $1.

My older door opener did not have any safety interlocks like the new ones
do. Does it go down OK with the remote?

I used to have an older opener here, with a simple doorbell button.

The opener was replaced with one with a fancy control (lighted button,
seperate button for light only, switch to disable opener when closed). The
old button is still connected (in parallel) and still works.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us

"God has no place within these walls (school), just like facts have no
place in organized religion!" -- Superintendent Chalmers

On Sun, 20 Mar 2011 06:29:25 -0700 (PDT), gcotterl
wrote:

No, Steve, I did not buy a lighted doorbell button.

My garage has two doors: a 16-foot wide sectional door (operated by
the garage-door opener) and a 32-inch wide back-door.

I'd like to put a push button beside each door so do I buy two
"momentary" push buttons?

Do "momentary" push-buttons have a different name? (The Lowes/Home
Depot people don't know what I'm talking about).
I
Doorbell buttond are "momentary"

On Sun, 20 Mar 2011 09:32:35 -0400, "Twayne"
wrote:

In ,
gcotterl typed:
I have a push button mounted on the stud next to the
garage door. The electrical wires are correctly
connected to the push button and to the garage-door
opener because, when I push the button, the garage door
opens and closes.

The push button has suffered a dent so it needs to be
replaced.

I have bought a new push button and attached the wires
correctly.

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up.
But, when I push the button again. the door doesn't go
down unless I disconnect and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What
kind of push button do I need to buy?

I you "bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly." then it
has to be the wrong or a defective pushbutton, right?

Since you gave no other information, I responded to the only information you
did give.

HTH,

Twayne`

What happens if you take the button off and just touch the wires
together? If it works then, you have a defective button, or a lighted
one. No other possibility.

On Sun, 20 Mar 2011 07:37:41 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Mar 20, 6:29Â*am, gcotterl wrote:
No, Steve, I did not buy a lighted doorbell button.

My garage has two doors: a 16-foot wide sectional door (operated by
the garage-door opener) and a 32-inch wide back-door.

I'd like to put a push button beside each door so do I buy two
"momentary" push buttons?

Do "momentary" push-buttons have a different name? Â*(The Lowes/Home
Depot people don't know what I'm talking about).
I

Go down and ask for a doorbell button - that is what you need. AFAIK
all of them are momentary.

As for two buttons, no problem as long as you wire them both from the
opener itself. It would get complicated if you tried to wire them in
on the same run of wire.

Harry K
Actually, VERY simple on the same run of wire - just skin the wire and
put it under the screws for the first one, and carry on to the last
one. Switches need to be IN PARALLEL to each other.

On Sun, 20 Mar 2011 07:39:34 -0700 (PDT), Harry K
wrote:

On Mar 20, 6:29Â*am, gcotterl wrote:
No, Steve, I did not buy a lighted doorbell button.

My garage has two doors: a 16-foot wide sectional door (operated by
the garage-door opener) and a 32-inch wide back-door.

I'd like to put a push button beside each door so do I buy two
"momentary" push buttons?

Do "momentary" push-buttons have a different name? Â*(The Lowes/Home
Depot people don't know what I'm talking about).
I

Ooops. They could be wired with one run of wire if it were a 3
conductor wire.

Harry K
Not necessary, Harry. 2 wires is all that is required.

On 3/20/2011 12:36 AM, gcotterl wrote:
I have a push button mounted on the stud next to the garage door. The
electrical wires are correctly connected to the push button and to the
garage-door opener because, when I push the button, the garage door
opens and closes.

The push button has suffered a dent so it needs to be replaced.

I have bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly.

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up. But, when I
push the button again. the door doesn't go down unless I disconnect
and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What kind of push
button do I need to buy?

You didn't say if the "dent" disabled the old button.

If it still works, use an ohm meter or continuity checker across the
screw connectors to see if you is a "push-on/push-off" or a "momentary"
type of switch. Then, check the replacement one you say is not working
properly. The replacement switch should mimic the action of the old one.

If the old switch does not work, figure out which type you need by
touching the bare wires together that were connected to the old switch.
If a brief touch causes the door to go fully up and another brief
touch causes the door to go fully down, you had a "momentary" switch.
If you need to hold the bare wires together to keep the door either up
or down, and it only moves in the opposite direction when you separate
the wires, you had a "push-on/push off" type switch.

On Mar 20, 9:52*am, wrote:
On Sun, 20 Mar 2011 07:39:34 -0700 (PDT), Harry K





wrote:
On Mar 20, 6:29*am, gcotterl wrote:
No, Steve, I did not buy a lighted doorbell button.

My garage has two doors: a 16-foot wide sectional door (operated by
the garage-door opener) and a 32-inch wide back-door.

I'd like to put a push button beside each door so do I buy two
"momentary" push buttons?

Do "momentary" push-buttons have a different name? *(The Lowes/Home
Depot people don't know what I'm talking about).
I

Ooops. *They could be wired with one run of wire if it were a 3
conductor wire.

Harry K

*Not necessary, Harry. 2 wires is all that is required.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yep, as soon as you pointed it out it was obvious.

Harry K

On 03/20/2011 08:29 AM, gcotterl wrote:
No, Steve, I did not buy a lighted doorbell button.

My garage has two doors: a 16-foot wide sectional door (operated by
the garage-door opener) and a 32-inch wide back-door.

I'd like to put a push button beside each door so do I buy two
"momentary" push buttons?

Do "momentary" push-buttons have a different name? (The Lowes/Home
Depot people don't know what I'm talking about).
I


A momentary normally open switch is one that is open (off) when it is
not pressed and closed (on) when it is pressed.

Example 1: a door-buzzer switch: the buzzer is buzzing only when you are
pressing the button.

Example 2: The circuit that controls the motor of a door opener is
sensitive to the momentary switch's transitions from off to on.

Probably you should just buy two switches at a place that sells and
fixes garage doors.

On Mar 21, 12:31*am, Matt wrote:
On 03/20/2011 08:29 AM, gcotterl wrote:

No, Steve, I did not buy a lighted doorbell button.

My garage has two doors: a 16-foot wide sectional door (operated by
the garage-door opener) and a 32-inch wide back-door.

I'd like to put a push button beside each door so do I buy two
"momentary" push buttons?

Do "momentary" push-buttons have a different name? *(The Lowes/Home
Depot people don't know what I'm talking about).
I

A momentary normally open switch is one that is open (off) when it is
not pressed and closed (on) when it is pressed.

Example 1: a door-buzzer switch: the buzzer is buzzing only when you are
pressing the button.

Example 2: The circuit that controls the motor of a door opener is
sensitive to the momentary switch's transitions from off to on.

Probably you should just buy two switches at a place that sells and
fixes garage doors.

For what it's worth, my liftmaster has an "intelligent" button. It
connects with just 2 wires that power it and it sends signals back
down the two wires on top of the power to the controller to raise and
lower the door, to lock the door, and to activate the light. So no
ordinary push button is going to work on mine. Just saying there are
others out there.

Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
wrote:

I have a push button mounted on the stud next to the garage door. The
electrical wires are correctly connected to the push button and to the
garage-door opener because, when I push the button, the garage door
opens and closes.

The push button has suffered a dent so it needs to be replaced.

I have bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly.

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up. But, when I
push the button again. the door doesn't go down unless I disconnect
and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What kind of push
button do I need to buy?

You probably bought an ON/OFF pushbutton, and you probably need a
MOMENTARY pushbutton.

Big Ditto on that!

jamesgangnc wrote:
On Mar 21, 12:31 am, wrote:
On 03/20/2011 08:29 AM, gcotterl wrote:

No, Steve, I did not buy a lighted doorbell button.

My garage has two doors: a 16-foot wide sectional door (operated by
the garage-door opener) and a 32-inch wide back-door.

I'd like to put a push button beside each door so do I buy two
"momentary" push buttons?

Do "momentary" push-buttons have a different name? (The Lowes/Home
Depot people don't know what I'm talking about).
I

A momentary normally open switch is one that is open (off) when it is
not pressed and closed (on) when it is pressed.

Example 1: a door-buzzer switch: the buzzer is buzzing only when you are
pressing the button.

Example 2: The circuit that controls the motor of a door opener is
sensitive to the momentary switch's transitions from off to on.

Probably you should just buy two switches at a place that sells and
fixes garage doors.

For what it's worth, my liftmaster has an "intelligent" button. It
connects with just 2 wires that power it and it sends signals back
down the two wires on top of the power to the controller to raise and
lower the door, to lock the door, and to activate the light. So no
ordinary push button is going to work on mine. Just saying there are
others out there.
Hmmm,
Joking, right? If not you are an idiot!

On Mar 21, 6:43*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On Mar 21, 12:31*am, Matt wrote:





On 03/20/2011 08:29 AM, gcotterl wrote:

No, Steve, I did not buy a lighted doorbell button.

My garage has two doors: a 16-foot wide sectional door (operated by
the garage-door opener) and a 32-inch wide back-door.

I'd like to put a push button beside each door so do I buy two
"momentary" push buttons?

Do "momentary" push-buttons have a different name? *(The Lowes/Home
Depot people don't know what I'm talking about).
I

A momentary normally open switch is one that is open (off) when it is
not pressed and closed (on) when it is pressed.

Example 1: a door-buzzer switch: the buzzer is buzzing only when you are
pressing the button.

Example 2: The circuit that controls the motor of a door opener is
sensitive to the momentary switch's transitions from off to on.

Probably you should just buy two switches at a place that sells and
fixes garage doors.

For what it's worth, my liftmaster has an "intelligent" button. *It
connects with just 2 wires that power it and it sends signals back
down the two wires on top of the power to the controller to raise and
lower the door, to lock the door, and to activate the light. *So no
ordinary push button is going to work on mine. *Just saying there are
others out there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ya, riiightt. You can test that theory by disconnect the wires at the
switch and touching them together. Prepare to be embarrassed.

Harry K

In article
,
Harry K wrote:


For what it's worth, my liftmaster has an "intelligent" button. *It
connects with just 2 wires that power it and it sends signals back
down the two wires on top of the power to the controller to raise and
lower the door, to lock the door, and to activate the light. *So no
ordinary push button is going to work on mine. *Just saying there are
others out there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ya, riiightt. You can test that theory by disconnect the wires at the
switch and touching them together. Prepare to be embarrassed.

Harry K

You and Tony have both scoffed at James' post, but I see nothing wrong
with it. Haven't seen such a gadget, but it'd be duck soup to make a
control panel that has multiple buttons for different functions, still
with only two wires connecting the control to the operator head. Each
button sends a coded signal down the power wires, said signal being
demodulated at the far end.

On Mar 21, 1:17*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
*Harry K wrote:



For what it's worth, my liftmaster has an "intelligent" button. It
connects with just 2 wires that power it and it sends signals back
down the two wires on top of the power to the controller to raise and
lower the door, to lock the door, and to activate the light. So no
ordinary push button is going to work on mine. Just saying there are
others out there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ya, riiightt. *You can test that theory by disconnect the wires at the
switch and touching them together. *Prepare to be embarrassed.

Harry K

You and Tony have both scoffed at James' post, but I see nothing wrong
with it. Haven't seen such a gadget, but it'd be duck soup to make a
control panel that has multiple buttons for different functions, still
with only two wires connecting the control to the operator head. Each
button sends a coded signal down the power wires, said signal being
demodulated at the far end.

Nope. Not joking. Has a circuit board in it with parts on it. I
suspect the reason was so that it could do several things with just 2
wires. That way people that have just 2 conductors buried in the wall
can have more features. Wire is polarized (red and white) and the
connections on the button are polarized as well.

In article
,
jamesgangnc wrote:

On Mar 21, 1:17*pm, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
*Harry K wrote:



For what it's worth, my liftmaster has an "intelligent" button. It
connects with just 2 wires that power it and it sends signals back
down the two wires on top of the power to the controller to raise and
lower the door, to lock the door, and to activate the light. So no
ordinary push button is going to work on mine. Just saying there are
others out there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ya, riiightt. *You can test that theory by disconnect the wires at the
switch and touching them together. *Prepare to be embarrassed.

Harry K

You and Tony have both scoffed at James' post, but I see nothing wrong
with it. Haven't seen such a gadget, but it'd be duck soup to make a
control panel that has multiple buttons for different functions, still
with only two wires connecting the control to the operator head. Each
button sends a coded signal down the power wires, said signal being
demodulated at the far end.

Nope. Not joking. Has a circuit board in it with parts on it. I
suspect the reason was so that it could do several things with just 2
wires. That way people that have just 2 conductors buried in the wall
can have more features. Wire is polarized (red and white) and the
connections on the button are polarized as well.

Yep, they even do that with model trains. Superimpose commands on the
track voltage, and the engine demodulates them to sound the horn, blow
"steam," etc.

On Mon, 21 Mar 2011 10:17:13 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article
,
Harry K wrote:


For what it's worth, my liftmaster has an "intelligent" button. *It
connects with just 2 wires that power it and it sends signals back
down the two wires on top of the power to the controller to raise and
lower the door, to lock the door, and to activate the light. *So no
ordinary push button is going to work on mine. *Just saying there are
others out there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ya, riiightt. You can test that theory by disconnect the wires at the
switch and touching them together. Prepare to be embarrassed.

Harry K

You and Tony have both scoffed at James' post, but I see nothing wrong
with it. Haven't seen such a gadget, but it'd be duck soup to make a
control panel that has multiple buttons for different functions, still
with only two wires connecting the control to the operator head. Each
button sends a coded signal down the power wires, said signal being
demodulated at the far end.
I agree. I have a Genie that has the traditional start/stop button
plus a light on/off button (that doesn't move the door) plus a lock
slide switch that prevents the radio receiver from working. All with
just two wires. I assume it uses resistors to differentiate between
the controls rather than a fancy digital system, but who knows - with
cheap pic-type microprocessors available, they could have done it many
different ways.

"Smitty Two" wrote

Ya, riiightt. You can test that theory by disconnect the wires at the
switch and touching them together. Prepare to be embarrassed.

Harry K

You and Tony have both scoffed at James' post, but I see nothing wrong
with it. Haven't seen such a gadget, but it'd be duck soup to make a
control panel that has multiple buttons for different functions, still
with only two wires connecting the control to the operator head. Each
button sends a coded signal down the power wires, said signal being
demodulated at the far end.

Steering wheel mounted radio controls on the car work that way. Sends a
coded pulse to change the station, volume, mode, etc.

On Mon, 21 Mar 2011 08:58:29 -0600, Tony Hwang
wrote:



jamesgangnc wrote:
On Mar 21, 12:31 am, wrote:
On 03/20/2011 08:29 AM, gcotterl wrote:

No, Steve, I did not buy a lighted doorbell button.

My garage has two doors: a 16-foot wide sectional door (operated by
the garage-door opener) and a 32-inch wide back-door.

I'd like to put a push button beside each door so do I buy two
"momentary" push buttons?

Do "momentary" push-buttons have a different name? (The Lowes/Home
Depot people don't know what I'm talking about).
I

A momentary normally open switch is one that is open (off) when it is
not pressed and closed (on) when it is pressed.

Example 1: a door-buzzer switch: the buzzer is buzzing only when you are
pressing the button.

Example 2: The circuit that controls the motor of a door opener is
sensitive to the momentary switch's transitions from off to on.

Probably you should just buy two switches at a place that sells and
fixes garage doors.

For what it's worth, my liftmaster has an "intelligent" button. It
connects with just 2 wires that power it and it sends signals back
down the two wires on top of the power to the controller to raise and
lower the door, to lock the door, and to activate the light. So no
ordinary push button is going to work on mine. Just saying there are
others out there.
Hmmm,
Joking, right? If not you are an idiot!
No, there actually ARE 2 wire coded controllers available that can do
more than one thing. The newer ones are digital multiplex, the older
ones wer analog - different resistance for different functions - just
like the cruise control switch on a lot of '70s era cars.

On Mon, 21 Mar 2011 18:47:38 -0400, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:


"Smitty Two" wrote

Ya, riiightt. You can test that theory by disconnect the wires at the
switch and touching them together. Prepare to be embarrassed.

Harry K

You and Tony have both scoffed at James' post, but I see nothing wrong
with it. Haven't seen such a gadget, but it'd be duck soup to make a
control panel that has multiple buttons for different functions, still
with only two wires connecting the control to the operator head. Each
button sends a coded signal down the power wires, said signal being
demodulated at the far end.

Steering wheel mounted radio controls on the car work that way. Sends a
coded pulse to change the station, volume, mode, etc.


Vast majority are not coded pulse, but differntial voltage, or more
siomply stated, different resistances across a reference voltage.
The 2 wires to the multi-switch unit switch the resistance on one half
of a voltage devider circuit, so the votage on the "center tap" (one
dide of the 2 wire cable - the one connected to the other resistor,
not the ref or ground) changes depending on which button is pushed.

On 3/21/2011 12:17 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
Harry wrote:


For what it's worth, my liftmaster has an "intelligent" button. It
connects with just 2 wires that power it and it sends signals back
down the two wires on top of the power to the controller to raise and
lower the door, to lock the door, and to activate the light. So no
ordinary push button is going to work on mine. Just saying there are
others out there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ya, riiightt. You can test that theory by disconnect the wires at the
switch and touching them together. Prepare to be embarrassed.

Harry K

You and Tony have both scoffed at James' post, but I see nothing wrong
with it. Haven't seen such a gadget, but it'd be duck soup to make a
control panel that has multiple buttons for different functions, still
with only two wires connecting the control to the operator head. Each
button sends a coded signal down the power wires, said signal being
demodulated at the far end.

Yes, very similiar to an automotive steering wheel. Just think of all
those different buttons on there and then imagine that there's most
likely only 3 wires doing all that.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Wednesday, February 18, 2015 at 10:26:27 PM UTC+11, micky wrote:
On Tue, 17 Feb 2015 23:50:28 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Wow, can't believe I found this post.

What post?

I have the same problem

What problem?

and my garage door company, 12 years later, tells me they have no idea what the switch is

What switch?

. I can't find a single electrical shop that has a similar push button,

What would make it similar?

which looks like a simple bell,

The switch looks like a bell? What kind of bell does it look like?

nor security company, nor ebay. I've tried two (lighted) bells

You have two lighted bells? Where in a bell does the light come
from? Do the bells ring?

with no luck but cant even find one without

Without what?

to try at the moment.

One of the worst posts I've ever read here.

If you mean without a light, if you want a swtich without a light, take
the swtich you have and disconnect the light. Cut one of the wires to
it if you have to. Better yet, leave the swtich alone and take the
two wires from the house that are meant to go to the switch, and touch
the uninsulated part of one of them to the other. What happens?

Why do you think the switch is the problem?

LMFAO never laughed so much! Yes you need a momentary or Normally Open Contact Switch (preferably without the bell)!

On Saturday, March 19, 2011 at 11:36:06 PM UTC-5, gcotterl wrote:
I have a push button mounted on the stud next to the garage door. The
electrical wires are correctly connected to the push button and to the
garage-door opener because, when I push the button, the garage door
opens and closes.

The push button has suffered a dent so it needs to be replaced.

I have bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly.

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up. But, when I
push the button again. the door doesn't go down unless I disconnect
and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What kind of push
button do I need to buy?

On 05/30/2017 07:49 PM, wrote:

[snip]

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up. But, when I
push the button again. the door doesn't go down unless I disconnect
and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What kind of push
button do I need to buy?


Does it go down when you push the button a third time? That's what would
happen with a toggle (push on/push off) button. You need a momentary
contact button.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"If *every*thing is a high priority, then nothing is"

On 5/30/2017 8:49 PM, wrote:
On Saturday, March 19, 2011 at 11:36:06 PM UTC-5, gcotterl wrote:
I have a push button mounted on the stud next to the garage door. The
electrical wires are correctly connected to the push button and to the
garage-door opener because, when I push the button, the garage door
opens and closes.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What kind of push
button do I need to buy?


I use a plain old doorbell button. You don't want a switch that goes
off and on.

i had a rental home, with similiar issues.

the outdoor key switch had all sorts of issues.

bought a remote control touchpad. worked so awesome i installed it at other locations

On Tue, 30 May 2017 17:49:18 -0700 (PDT), wrote:

On Saturday, March 19, 2011 at 11:36:06 PM UTC-5, gcotterl wrote:
I have a push button mounted on the stud next to the garage door. The
electrical wires are correctly connected to the push button and to the
garage-door opener because, when I push the button, the garage door
opens and closes.

The push button has suffered a dent so it needs to be replaced.

I have bought a new push button and attached the wires correctly.

Now, when I push the button, the garage door goes up. But, when I
push the button again. the door doesn't go down unless I disconnect
and reconnect the wires.

Apparently, I bought the wrong type of push button. What kind of push
button do I need to buy?
One with no light or diode

On Monday, March 21, 2011 at 1:17:13 PM UTC-4, Smitty Two wrote:
In article
,
Harry K wrote:


For what it's worth, my liftmaster has an "intelligent" button. Â*It
connects with just 2 wires that power it and it sends signals back
down the two wires on top of the power to the controller to raise and
lower the door, to lock the door, and to activate the light. Â*So no
ordinary push button is going to work on mine. Â*Just saying there are
others out there.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Ya, riiightt. You can test that theory by disconnect the wires at the
switch and touching them together. Prepare to be embarrassed.

Harry K

You and Tony have both scoffed at James' post, but I see nothing wrong
with it. Haven't seen such a gadget, but it'd be duck soup to make a
control panel that has multiple buttons for different functions, still
with only two wires connecting the control to the operator head. Each
button sends a coded signal down the power wires, said signal being
demodulated at the far end.

i am dealing with the same issue on my Craftsman 139.54915. Absolutely will not work with just an old fashion button, and yes, i tried touching the wires together that run to the NEW intelligent button - which i am believing is sending a digital signal (not an electric pulse). I just want to find a less expensive button.

OMG! I bought a IRIS z wave garage door opener control from Lowes about a year ago. Cost $70. I couldnt get it to work with my lighted doorbell button. So I bought a lfm 20 z wave relay $40, and a universal remote $30, and a cheap soldering iron $10, and a 3 prong appliance cord (its all I could find) $15. Couldnt get that to work either.. I think the lfm was bad. I threw it all in a drawer.
About a month ago I pulled it out again and hooked the remote up to the iris. That worked! But when I was moving it one of the wires came loose from the remote. Got out my cheap soldering iron and tried to solder it back on. I ended up burning the PCB on the remote. But all wasnt lost, it was a 3 button remote so I still had 2 chances. So I ordered a good soldering station on amazon $95, and high quality solder $30. I couldnt get it to work again. So doing some more research I came across this thread. I pulled off the lighted button and touched the wires together. That opened and closed the door. I looked around in the drawer Id put all the other stuff in and found an unlighted doorbell button and hooked that up and it all worked, so I stuffed the wires from the iris in the power head along side the wires leading to the button and it works great!
If Id found this thread a year ago I could have saved $220!
Anyone have an idea for a new hobby I could start that would involve soldering?