Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

RubEric wrote:
Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??


The tub will shatter. If it does not, use a bigger hammer.

In article
,
RubEric wrote:

Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

Just wondering if ones man's trash is another's jewel.

--
Bill S. Jersey USA zone 5 shade garden

"Always tell the truth and you don't have to remember anything."
--Mark Twain.

Bill who putters wrote:

In article
,
RubEric wrote:

Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

Just wondering if ones man's trash is another's jewel.

Antique claw foot tub, yes, ordinary old enameled cast iron "built-in"
tub, no.

Remove the tub from it's position before attempting to break it up, i.e.
pull it away fro the walls. Only hammer on it in a horizontal direction
i.e. do not hammer downward on it. Reposition the remains as needed to
continue the horizontal hammering. Wear full safety goggles (not just
glasses), ear protection and full long sleeve clothing as well.

On Mon, 20 Dec 2010 11:30:35 -0600, Pete C. wrote:

Bill who putters wrote:

In article
,
RubEric wrote:

Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large
cast iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be
removed on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

Just wondering if ones man's trash is another's jewel.

Antique claw foot tub, yes, ordinary old enameled cast iron "built-in"
tub, no.

I don't know about jewel, but possibly useful intact - block up the drain
and it wouldn't be bad as a livestock trough, say.

When I eventually get rid of one of ours I think it'll go in the shed
(with a lid) as a holding tank for rainwater, so I can have some running
water up in the adjacent 'shop. That's assuming I can get it out without
busting it :-)

Problem with freecycling something like that I suppose is that you don't
know that whoever turns up for it is going to be careful removing it from
your house :-(

cheers

Jules

"Pete C." wrote in message
ster.com...

Bill who putters wrote:

In article
,
RubEric wrote:

Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

Just wondering if ones man's trash is another's jewel.

Antique claw foot tub, yes, ordinary old enameled cast iron "built-in"
tub, no.

Remove the tub from it's position before attempting to break it up, i.e.
pull it away fro the walls. Only hammer on it in a horizontal direction
i.e. do not hammer downward on it. Reposition the remains as needed to
continue the horizontal hammering. Wear full safety goggles (not just
glasses), ear protection and full long sleeve clothing as well.


Add a face shield to that list. WW

On Mon, 20 Dec 2010 10:44:16 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

RubEric wrote:
Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??


The tub will shatter. If it does not, use a bigger hammer.


I have a large range of hammer sizes in my tool kit.

On Dec 20, 8:26*am, RubEric wrote:
Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? *Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? *Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? *Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

The BFH is the way to go. I would try draping the spot you were
hammering on in a blanket.

As for recycling it? Until one of those things is removed to outside
the house, it is nothing but a big headache. I only salvaged one and
will never, ever try to do it again.

Harry K

Harry K wrote:
On Dec 20, 8:26 am, RubEric wrote:
Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large
cast iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be
removed on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

The BFH is the way to go. I would try draping the spot you were
hammering on in a blanket.

As for recycling it? Until one of those things is removed to outside
the house, it is nothing but a big headache. I only salvaged one and
will never, ever try to do it again.

Harry K

a pickaxe would be a better choice. the point would work far better on
brittle objects.

On Dec 20, 8:26*am, RubEric wrote:
Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? *Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? *Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? *Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

http://www.bennys.bz/images/uploads/206-99-337031.gif


http://saimarketingvapi.com/images/e...e%20shield.jpg


http://www.rosemania.com/images/Respirator.jpg

In article ,
RubEric wrote:
...snipped...
How do I do that? Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

Put on some safety goggles or glasses with side shields and wail away with a
sledge hammer, 8-10 lbs minimum. It may take several hits before the 1st
piece breaks off, but once one chunk breaks off it will be fairly easy to
break up the rest of the tub. No scoring or other cutting will be necessary
if it is a cast iron tub.

If by chance you have a steel tub, it will bend or dent when you hit it
with the sledge. However, steel tubs weigh a fraction of what CI tubs do
(they are much thinner) so it shouldn't be too tough to carry out. If you
do have to cut up a steel tub, use a sawzall or angle grinder.




--
Better to be stuck up in a tree than tied to one.

Larry Wasserman - Baltimore Maryland - lwasserm(a)sdf. lonestar.org

wrote in message
...
On Mon, 20 Dec 2010 08:26:53 -0800 (PST), RubEric
wrote:

Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric



These folks are overstating the dangers of breaking this up.

Not true. Read my other post.

On Mon, 20 Dec 2010 17:42:12 +0000 (UTC), Jules Richardson
wrote:

On Mon, 20 Dec 2010 11:30:35 -0600, Pete C. wrote:

Bill who putters wrote:

In article
,
RubEric wrote:

Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large
cast iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be
removed on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

Just wondering if ones man's trash is another's jewel.

Antique claw foot tub, yes, ordinary old enameled cast iron "built-in"
tub, no.

I don't know about jewel, but possibly useful intact - block up the drain
and it wouldn't be bad as a livestock trough, say.

Yeah, but how will he get the livestock up to his bathroom?

When I eventually get rid of one of ours I think it'll go in the shed
(with a lid) as a holding tank for rainwater, so I can have some running
water up in the adjacent 'shop. That's assuming I can get it out without
busting it :-)

Problem with freecycling something like that I suppose is that you don't
know that whoever turns up for it is going to be careful removing it from
your house :-(

You can't rely on other people for that.

cheers

Jules

On Dec 20, 11:44*am, "HeyBub" wrote:
RubEric wrote:
Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? *Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? *Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? *Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

The tub will shatter. If it does not, use a bigger hammer.

Completely disagree. Not a matter of using a bigger hammer,
it's a matter of delivering the same energy to a SMALLER
contact area. Use one of the older style picks. It doesn't make
a lot of flying fragments, and it's very easy to follow the fracture
lines around and make big pieces into as small as you choose.

Pete C. wrote:

Remove the tub from it's position before attempting to break it up,
i.e. pull it away fro the walls.

The one I did I did in place without problems.

"Harry K" wrote in message
...
On Dec 20, 8:26 am, RubEric wrote:
Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

The BFH is the way to go. I would try draping the spot you were
hammering on in a blanket.

As for recycling it? Until one of those things is removed to outside
the house, it is nothing but a big headache. I only salvaged one and
will never, ever try to do it again.

Harry K

DITTO that..Bust it up with a sledge hammer...

On Mon, 20 Dec 2010 19:42:28 -0500, mm
wrote:

I don't know about jewel, but possibly useful intact - block up the drain
and it wouldn't be bad as a livestock trough, say.

Yeah, but how will he get the livestock up to his bathroom?

Same way they got the tub up there. Very carefully. Silly!

On Dec 20, 1:35*pm, wrote:
On Mon, 20 Dec 2010 08:26:53 -0800 (PST), RubEric
wrote:

Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? *Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? *Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? *Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

These folks are overstating the dangers of breaking this up. I did
wear real safety glasses when I broke up mine but it was not that
exciting. Once I got the first crack in it I just kept gnawing away on
the edge so I had small enough pieces to put in a drywall bucket and
haul out to the curb. A "scrapper" drove by and hauled the whole mess
away within a day. Once you get it started you use a sledge hammer and
you don't really hit it that hard. Pretty much you just let gravity
swing it.
This is over 300 pounds of metal and getting it out on one piece would
be very hard. I think mine was set before the walls were framed.
It was butt ugly 60s pink with rust spots so saving it was not even
considered.

My project replaced the ugly thing with a one-piece fiberglass tub/
shower unit during a remodel. The out/in was accomplished with a
chainsaw that pretty well opened the entire wall ceiling to floor to
the outside. Two very good tools when remodeling: BFH and a chainsaw
(but don't use one in a basement under a fire detector - ask how I
know )

Harry K

On Dec 20, 4:26*pm, RubEric wrote:
Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? *Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? *Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? *Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

WEAR GOGGLES.
Smash up with sledge hamer working initially from the INSIDE.
It will break up easy, they are only around a quarter inch thick.

On Dec 20, 5:30*pm, "Pete C." wrote:
Bill who putters wrote:

In article
,
*RubEric wrote:

Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? *Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? *Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? *Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

*Just wondering if ones man's trash is another's jewel.

Antique claw foot tub, yes, ordinary old enameled cast iron "built-in"
tub, no.

Remove the tub from it's position before attempting to break it up, i.e.
pull it away fro the walls. Only hammer on it in a horizontal direction
i.e. do not hammer downward on it. Reposition the remains as needed to
continue the horizontal hammering. Wear full safety goggles (not just
glasses), ear protection and full long sleeve clothing as well.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Your bath is like gold dust over here in the UK. Worth around $1000
even if in needs re-enamelling. There is a minor industry over here
in the UK re-enamelling they are so sought after. You can buy new for
arounf $3000 too.

They are being recovered from farmer's fields :-)

On Dec 20, 11:49*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Dec 20, 1:35*pm, wrote:





On Mon, 20 Dec 2010 08:26:53 -0800 (PST), RubEric
wrote:

Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? *Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? *Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? *Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

These folks are overstating the dangers of breaking this up. I did
wear real safety glasses when I broke up mine but it was not that
exciting. Once I got the first crack in it I just kept gnawing away on
the edge so I had small enough pieces to put in a drywall bucket and
haul out to the curb. A "scrapper" drove by and hauled the whole mess
away within a day. Once you get it started you use a sledge hammer and
you don't really hit it that hard. Pretty much you just let gravity
swing it.
This is over 300 pounds of metal and getting it out on one piece would
be very hard. I think mine was set before the walls were framed.
It was butt ugly 60s pink with rust spots so saving it was not even
considered.

My project replaced the ugly thing with a one-piece fiberglass tub/
shower unit during a remodel. *The out/in was accomplished with a
chainsaw that pretty well opened the entire wall ceiling to floor to
the outside. *Two very good tools when remodeling: *BFH and a chainsaw
(but don't use one in a basement under a fire detector - ask how I
know )

Harry K- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

When using a BFH, be aware of your backswing.

Ask my former toilet how I know that.

On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 00:47:04 -0800, harry wrote:
Your bath is like gold dust over here in the UK. Worth around $1000
even if in needs re-enamelling.

Old claw-foots maybe... not so sure about the plain ones, though.

Ours are odd - the exposed flat side panel is cast as part of the bath,
but there's no opposite side (hidden against the wall), so they must have
been available in 'left' and 'right' configurations. (Well, that's not
'odd' because there must have been lots of them made, but I don't know
why they didn't make a bath with a seperate side panel that you could put
on whichever side you wanted.)

cheers

Jules

On Dec 21, 8:38*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 00:47:04 -0800, harry wrote:
Your bath is like gold dust over here in the UK. *Worth around *$1000
even if in needs re-enamelling.

Old claw-foots maybe... not so sure about the plain ones, though.

Ours are odd - the exposed flat side panel is cast as part of the bath,
but there's no opposite side (hidden against the wall), so they must have
been available in 'left' and 'right' configurations. (Well, that's not
'odd' because there must have been lots of them made, but I don't know
why they didn't make a bath with a seperate side panel that you could put
on whichever side you wanted.)

cheers

Jules

"...but I don't know why they didn't make a bath with a seperate
side panel that you could put
on whichever side you wanted."

Probably cheaper to just cast them in one piece.

Think TCO.

You'd have to add in inventory storage costs, packaging, shipping,
cataloging, etc.

Then there be the attachment method to consider - another expense.

Besides, how would you design a cast iron tub that had a lip in each
side so that either one could be installed against the wall and allow
the wallboard to cover it? If the lip was part of the side panel,
you'd have a seam that would have to be dealt with.

On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 06:22:49 -0800, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On Dec 21, 8:38Â*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 00:47:04 -0800, harry wrote:
Your bath is like gold dust over here in the UK. Â*Worth around Â*$1000
even if in needs re-enamelling.

Old claw-foots maybe... not so sure about the plain ones, though.

Ours are odd - the exposed flat side panel is cast as part of the bath,
but there's no opposite side (hidden against the wall), so they must
have been available in 'left' and 'right' configurations. (Well, that's
not 'odd' because there must have been lots of them made, but I don't
know why they didn't make a bath with a seperate side panel that you
could put on whichever side you wanted.)

cheers

Jules

"...but I don't know why they didn't make a bath with a seperate
side panel that you could put
on whichever side you wanted."

Probably cheaper to just cast them in one piece.

Think TCO.

You'd have to add in inventory storage costs, packaging, shipping,
cataloging, etc.

Then there be the attachment method to consider - another expense.

Besides, how would you design a cast iron tub that had a lip in each
side so that either one could be installed against the wall and allow
the wallboard to cover it? If the lip was part of the side panel, you'd
have a seam that would have to be dealt with.

I would expect the lip to be part of the bath itself, with the top of the
side panel(s) slotting into the underside of the lip and then secured at
the floor level with a couple of screws (or clips if you wanted to be
fancy). Maybe someone had a patent on that design or something, though.

I'm not sure that it causes an inventory headache - a buyer would just
get a bath and a standard side panel (which will fit whichever side they
want), so yes it's two things rather than one, but I don't think it's
really different from having to stock two different all-in-one bath
castings.

I have no idea what our baths have at the far ends, though - they're big
baths (much longer than modern ones, which is nice) so have a wall at
both the top and bottom. Maybe there's a built-in end panel at the
bottom, but maybe not (there's certainly not one at the top). The
fittings are all 1930's, but I'm not sure if the baths are the same age.

cheers

Jules

These folks are overstating the dangers of breaking this up.

I had a piece rocket to the ceiling and knock me out. Do be careful.

On Dec 21, 9:54*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 06:22:49 -0800, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Dec 21, 8:38*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 00:47:04 -0800, harry wrote:
Your bath is like gold dust over here in the UK. *Worth around *$1000
even if in needs re-enamelling.

Old claw-foots maybe... not so sure about the plain ones, though.

Ours are odd - the exposed flat side panel is cast as part of the bath,
but there's no opposite side (hidden against the wall), so they must
have been available in 'left' and 'right' configurations. (Well, that's
not 'odd' because there must have been lots of them made, but I don't
know why they didn't make a bath with a seperate side panel that you
could put on whichever side you wanted.)

cheers

Jules

"...but I don't know why they didn't make a bath with a seperate
side panel that you could put
on whichever side you wanted."

Probably cheaper to just cast them in one piece.

Think TCO.

You'd have to add in inventory storage costs, packaging, shipping,
cataloging, etc.

Then there be the attachment method to consider - another expense.

Besides, how would you design a cast iron tub that had a lip in each
side so that either one could be installed against the wall and allow
the wallboard to cover it? If the lip was part of the side panel, you'd
have a seam that would have to be dealt with.

I would expect the lip to be part of the bath itself, with the top of the
side panel(s) slotting into the underside of the lip and then secured at
the floor level with a couple of screws (or clips if you wanted to be
fancy). Maybe someone had a patent on that design or something, though.

I'm not sure that it causes an inventory headache - a buyer would just
get a bath and a standard side panel (which will fit whichever side they
want), so yes it's two things rather than one, but I don't think it's
really different from having to stock two different all-in-one bath
castings.

I have no idea what our baths have at the far ends, though - they're big
baths (much longer than modern ones, which is nice) so have a wall at
both the top and bottom. Maybe there's a built-in end panel at the
bottom, but maybe not (there's certainly not one at the top). The
fittings are all 1930's, but I'm not sure if the baths are the same age.

cheers

Jules- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"I would expect the lip to be part of the bath itself"

How could you have the lip on both sides of the tub?

Look he

http://www.solwerks.net/blog/hello/3...4-09.12.16.jpg

What are you going to do with the sharp lip on the exposed side of the
top? The side that facing into the bathroom?

I know I wouldn't want to sit on it!

Besides the drain and overflow have to match your plumbing. You can't
have a drain on both sides.

As far as inventory goes, with left and right hand tubs you have 1
size item requiring 1 size shelving and 1 size packaging. Only the
labels are different.

20,000 tubs = 20,000 boxes

With a tub and side panel you need different storage set-ups for each
item (extra cost), you need 10,000 of one size box and 10,000 of
another - or styrofoam, or bubble wrap or whatever. (extra cost), you
need different handling equipment, especially if we're talking robotic
manufacturing and warehousing (extra cost), you need more complicated
packaging if you are packing both parts in one outside box (extra
cost). The list goes on.

However, all of that is a moot point since we still have the lip and
drain to deal with.

On Dec 21, 6:54*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 06:22:49 -0800, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Dec 21, 8:38*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 00:47:04 -0800, harry wrote:
Your bath is like gold dust over here in the UK. *Worth around *$1000
even if in needs re-enamelling.

Old claw-foots maybe... not so sure about the plain ones, though.

Ours are odd - the exposed flat side panel is cast as part of the bath,
but there's no opposite side (hidden against the wall), so they must
have been available in 'left' and 'right' configurations. (Well, that's
not 'odd' because there must have been lots of them made, but I don't
know why they didn't make a bath with a seperate side panel that you
could put on whichever side you wanted.)

cheers

Jules

"...but I don't know why they didn't make a bath with a seperate
side panel that you could put
on whichever side you wanted."

Probably cheaper to just cast them in one piece.

Think TCO.

You'd have to add in inventory storage costs, packaging, shipping,
cataloging, etc.

Then there be the attachment method to consider - another expense.

Besides, how would you design a cast iron tub that had a lip in each
side so that either one could be installed against the wall and allow
the wallboard to cover it? If the lip was part of the side panel, you'd
have a seam that would have to be dealt with.

I would expect the lip to be part of the bath itself, with the top of the
side panel(s) slotting into the underside of the lip and then secured at
the floor level with a couple of screws (or clips if you wanted to be
fancy). Maybe someone had a patent on that design or something, though.

I'm not sure that it causes an inventory headache - a buyer would just
get a bath and a standard side panel (which will fit whichever side they
want), so yes it's two things rather than one, but I don't think it's
really different from having to stock two different all-in-one bath
castings.

I have no idea what our baths have at the far ends, though - they're big
baths (much longer than modern ones, which is nice) so have a wall at
both the top and bottom. Maybe there's a built-in end panel at the
bottom, but maybe not (there's certainly not one at the top). The
fittings are all 1930's, but I'm not sure if the baths are the same age.

cheers

Jules- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You are ignoring the need for having the drain on either the left or
right end depending on location. Left hand drain could not be just
turned around to make it a right hand one. Your "finished" side would
be against the wall.

Harry K

On Dec 21, 6:54*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 06:22:49 -0800, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Dec 21, 8:38*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 00:47:04 -0800, harry wrote:
Your bath is like gold dust over here in the UK. *Worth around *$1000
even if in needs re-enamelling.

Old claw-foots maybe... not so sure about the plain ones, though.

Ours are odd - the exposed flat side panel is cast as part of the bath,
but there's no opposite side (hidden against the wall), so they must
have been available in 'left' and 'right' configurations. (Well, that's
not 'odd' because there must have been lots of them made, but I don't
know why they didn't make a bath with a seperate side panel that you
could put on whichever side you wanted.)

cheers

Jules

"...but I don't know why they didn't make a bath with a seperate
side panel that you could put
on whichever side you wanted."

Probably cheaper to just cast them in one piece.

Think TCO.

You'd have to add in inventory storage costs, packaging, shipping,
cataloging, etc.

Then there be the attachment method to consider - another expense.

Besides, how would you design a cast iron tub that had a lip in each
side so that either one could be installed against the wall and allow
the wallboard to cover it? If the lip was part of the side panel, you'd
have a seam that would have to be dealt with.

I would expect the lip to be part of the bath itself, with the top of the
side panel(s) slotting into the underside of the lip and then secured at
the floor level with a couple of screws (or clips if you wanted to be
fancy). Maybe someone had a patent on that design or something, though.

I'm not sure that it causes an inventory headache - a buyer would just
get a bath and a standard side panel (which will fit whichever side they
want), so yes it's two things rather than one, but I don't think it's
really different from having to stock two different all-in-one bath
castings.

I have no idea what our baths have at the far ends, though - they're big
baths (much longer than modern ones, which is nice) so have a wall at
both the top and bottom. Maybe there's a built-in end panel at the
bottom, but maybe not (there's certainly not one at the top). The
fittings are all 1930's, but I'm not sure if the baths are the same age.

cheers

Jules- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Forgot to include: I had to reject the first tub/shower unit they
delivered because of that. They had ordered the wrong "hand".

Harry K

On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 09:28:30 -0800, Harry K wrote:
You are ignoring the need for having the drain on either the left or
right end depending on location. Left hand drain could not be just
turned around to make it a right hand one. Your "finished" side would
be against the wall.

Wait... are we getting mixed up here? By 'sides' I'm talking about the
longest sides, by 'ends' I mean the shorter "sides" at the head and foot
of the bath...

That's my whole point, anyway - the old baths that I have can't be turned
round to suit any location, because only one (long) side is covered (and
maybe the bottom end too, but I can't see that), and it's a single-piece
casting.

Having a seperate panel for a (long) side would mean one design of bath
that could fit any location, with the panel attached by the installer to
the exposed side, but there must have been a reason that they weren't
designed that way; perhaps casting the bath with a little groove on the
underside of the outer-edge lip that the panel could slot up into was too
complex, or something (or it's an inventory thing as DD mentioned).

Another possibility is that they *only* offered the bath in the one
configuration, and you were supposed to design the room around it. Seems
unlikely, but who knows...

cheers

Jules

On 12/20/2010 10:26 AM, RubEric wrote:
Remodeling my second floor bathroom will involve removing a large cast
iron tub. The tub is probably much too large and heavy to be removed
on one piece and will have to be broken up into small pieces.

How do I do that? Is cast iron brittle and easy to fracture with a
heavy hammer? Should I score the tub with a diamond saw before I
start to beat on it? Is there a danger of the stucco exterior
cracking as the result of my hammering??

TIA

Eric

Personally, i've never been able to break one. (tried twice). But
having said that, i know plenty of people on here will say yes, you can
break it up with a sledge. So yes, I'd roll it up on its side away from
the wall before starting the beating process. Wear safety glasses and
ear plugs.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Dec 21, 9:57*am, wrote:
On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 07:02:18 -0800 (PST), Thomas
wrote:

These folks are overstating the dangers of breaking this up.

I had a piece rocket to the ceiling and knock me out. Do be careful.

How hard are you people hitting this thing?
Once I got the first little piece cracked off I was just letting the
hammer hit the broken edge. pretty much of it's own weight and palm
sized pieces simply dropped into the tub. There were pieces of the
finish that spattered off but they were not flying around the room
like M16 bullets.
I was wearing my safety glasses but I wear them all the time when I am
working anyway.

Accidents happen. Relating one insstance where it didn't is no proof
of anything.

I spent two years busting up the concrete foundation of a
schoolhouse. Once, and once only a chip hit my face and broke my
glasses. Probably would have lost and eye except for the (non safety)
glasses.

Wear safty equipment when busting up anything!!

Harry K

On Dec 21, 10:55*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 09:28:30 -0800, Harry K wrote:
You are ignoring the need for having the drain on either the left or
right end depending on location. *Left hand drain could not be just
turned around to make it a right hand one. *Your "finished" side would
be against the wall.

Wait... are we getting mixed up here? By 'sides' I'm talking about the
longest sides, by 'ends' I mean the shorter "sides" at the head and foot
of the bath...

No, there is no confusion. Look at any tub and you will see one
finished "long" side and one unfinished "long side" (same for ends,
some only one finished some none). Try turning a Lefty that looks
good that way and trun it around, now try to make that "panel' of
yours look just as good as what was the finished side.

That's my whole point, anyway - the old baths that I have can't be turned
round to suit any location, because only one (long) side is covered (and
maybe the bottom end too, but I can't see that), and it's a single-piece
casting.

Having a seperate panel for a (long) side would mean one design of bath
that could fit any location, with the panel attached by the installer to
the exposed side, but there must have been a reason that they weren't
designed that way; perhaps casting the bath with a little groove on the
underside of the outer-edge lip that the panel could slot up into was too
complex, or something (or it's an inventory thing as DD mentioned).


Well, if you can design a 'panel' that will be seamless or at least
look as good as a seamless facing into the room....

Another possibility is that they *only* offered the bath in the one
configuration, and you were supposed to design the room around it. Seems
unlikely, but who knows...

cheers

Nope, the choice was to build 'lefts' and 'rights' or put a finished
side all around.

Harry K

In article ,
Steve Barker wrote:



Personally, i've never been able to break one. (tried twice).

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=.30-06+vs.+cast+iron+bathtub

On 12/21/2010 9:14 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
In articleJ8CdnRp2FJBY34zQnZ2dnUVZ_vOdnZ2d@giganews. com,
Steve wrote:



Personally, i've never been able to break one. (tried twice).

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=.30-06+vs.+cast+iron+bathtub


Thanks for the LMGTFY ! I do that to people also. Thanks for the
laugh. Be my luck, i'd use that method and kill myself.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

On Dec 21, 7:06*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Dec 21, 10:55*am, Jules Richardson

wrote:
On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 09:28:30 -0800, Harry K wrote:
You are ignoring the need for having the drain on either the left or
right end depending on location. *Left hand drain could not be just
turned around to make it a right hand one. *Your "finished" side would
be against the wall.

Wait... are we getting mixed up here? By 'sides' I'm talking about the
longest sides, by 'ends' I mean the shorter "sides" at the head and foot
of the bath...

No, there is no confusion. *Look at any tub and you will see one
finished "long" side and one unfinished "long side" (same for ends,
some only one finished some none). *Try turning a Lefty that looks
good that way and trun it around, now try to make that "panel' of
yours look just as good as what was the finished side.

That's my whole point, anyway - the old baths that I have can't be turned
round to suit any location, because only one (long) side is covered (and
maybe the bottom end too, but I can't see that), and it's a single-piece
casting.

Having a seperate panel for a (long) side would mean one design of bath
that could fit any location, with the panel attached by the installer to
the exposed side, but there must have been a reason that they weren't
designed that way; perhaps casting the bath with a little groove on the
underside of the outer-edge lip that the panel could slot up into was too
complex, or something (or it's an inventory thing as DD mentioned).

Well, if you can design a 'panel' that will be seamless or at least
look as good as a seamless facing into the room....

Another possibility is that they *only* offered the bath in the one
configuration, and you were supposed to design the room around it. Seems
unlikely, but who knows...

cheers

Nope, the choice was to build 'lefts' and 'rights' or put a finished
side all around.

Harry K

Hmmm...after a bit more thought...If a removable panel can be designed
to look good then the real answer is to produce a tub with no sides or
ends and provide one long panel and either one, two or no short
panels. It would now fit any bath design. The 'appearance factor'
should not be a hard problem to solve.

Harry K

On Dec 21, 10:33*pm, Steve Barker wrote:
On 12/21/2010 9:14 PM, Smitty Two wrote:

In articleJ8CdnRp2FJBY34zQnZ2dnUVZ_vOdn...@giganews. com,
* Steve *wrote:

Personally, i've never been able to break one. *(tried twice).

http://lmgtfy.com/?q=.30-06+vs.+cast+iron+bathtub

Thanks for the LMGTFY ! *I do that to people also. *Thanks for the
laugh. *Be my luck, i'd use that method and kill myself.

--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

You can watch the whole thing if you want, but the bathtub fun starts
at about 5:00.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wrs6nIwZI3Q

On Dec 21, 10:35*pm, Harry K wrote:
On Dec 21, 7:06*pm, Harry K wrote:



On Dec 21, 10:55*am, Jules Richardson

wrote:
On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 09:28:30 -0800, Harry K wrote:
You are ignoring the need for having the drain on either the left or
right end depending on location. *Left hand drain could not be just
turned around to make it a right hand one. *Your "finished" side would
be against the wall.

Wait... are we getting mixed up here? By 'sides' I'm talking about the
longest sides, by 'ends' I mean the shorter "sides" at the head and foot
of the bath...

No, there is no confusion. *Look at any tub and you will see one
finished "long" side and one unfinished "long side" (same for ends,
some only one finished some none). *Try turning a Lefty that looks
good that way and trun it around, now try to make that "panel' of
yours look just as good as what was the finished side.

That's my whole point, anyway - the old baths that I have can't be turned
round to suit any location, because only one (long) side is covered (and
maybe the bottom end too, but I can't see that), and it's a single-piece
casting.

Having a seperate panel for a (long) side would mean one design of bath
that could fit any location, with the panel attached by the installer to
the exposed side, but there must have been a reason that they weren't
designed that way; perhaps casting the bath with a little groove on the
underside of the outer-edge lip that the panel could slot up into was too
complex, or something (or it's an inventory thing as DD mentioned).

Well, if you can design a 'panel' that will be seamless or at least
look as good as a seamless facing into the room....

Another possibility is that they *only* offered the bath in the one
configuration, and you were supposed to design the room around it. Seems
unlikely, but who knows...

cheers

Nope, the choice was to build 'lefts' and 'rights' or put a finished
side all around.

Harry K

Hmmm...after a bit more thought...If a removable panel can be designed
to look good then the real answer is to produce a tub with no sides or
ends and provide one long panel and either one, two or no short
panels. *It would now fit any bath design. The 'appearance factor'
should not be a hard problem to solve.

Harry K

I still don't see how you would deal with the flange that goes on the
"unfinished" side.

I am referring to the flange that gets covered by the wallboard...the
flange shown up against the studs in this pictu

http://www.solwerks.net/blog/hello/3...4-09.12.16.jpg

On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 19:35:08 -0800, Harry K wrote:

Hmmm...after a bit more thought...If a removable panel can be designed
to look good then the real answer is to produce a tub with no sides or
ends and provide one long panel and either one, two or no short panels.
It would now fit any bath design. The 'appearance factor' should not be
a hard problem to solve.

Yes, *exactly*. And I've seen lots of baths like that over in England.
I've not seen them like that here in the US, but then I've not exactly
been paying attention, either :-) It can certainly be done, has been
done and is done, and it actually surprised me to find ones that weren't
like that.

Yes, you end up with a seam down any exposed sides of the bath, but I
don't think it's necessarily intrusive (and doesn't result in sharp edges
etc.)

cheers

Jules

On Wed, 22 Dec 2010 04:05:22 -0800, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I still don't see how you would deal with the flange that goes on the
"unfinished" side.

I am referring to the flange that gets covered by the wallboard...the
flange shown up against the studs in this pictu

http://www.solwerks.net/blog/hello/3...remodel%20073%
20crop%20edit-2005.03.24-09.12.16.jpg

I'm not seeing how it's a problem - how's it any different between a bath
that has integral side-panels and one that doesn't? The profile of the
flange / rim / lip is still the same for both, and they'd both be sealed
against the wall in the same way.

cheers

Jules

On Dec 22, 4:05*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On Dec 21, 10:35*pm, Harry K wrote:





On Dec 21, 7:06*pm, Harry K wrote:

On Dec 21, 10:55*am, Jules Richardson

wrote:
On Tue, 21 Dec 2010 09:28:30 -0800, Harry K wrote:
You are ignoring the need for having the drain on either the left or
right end depending on location. *Left hand drain could not be just
turned around to make it a right hand one. *Your "finished" side would
be against the wall.

Wait... are we getting mixed up here? By 'sides' I'm talking about the
longest sides, by 'ends' I mean the shorter "sides" at the head and foot
of the bath...

No, there is no confusion. *Look at any tub and you will see one
finished "long" side and one unfinished "long side" (same for ends,
some only one finished some none). *Try turning a Lefty that looks
good that way and trun it around, now try to make that "panel' of
yours look just as good as what was the finished side.

That's my whole point, anyway - the old baths that I have can't be turned
round to suit any location, because only one (long) side is covered (and
maybe the bottom end too, but I can't see that), and it's a single-piece
casting.

Having a seperate panel for a (long) side would mean one design of bath
that could fit any location, with the panel attached by the installer to
the exposed side, but there must have been a reason that they weren't
designed that way; perhaps casting the bath with a little groove on the
underside of the outer-edge lip that the panel could slot up into was too
complex, or something (or it's an inventory thing as DD mentioned).

Well, if you can design a 'panel' that will be seamless or at least
look as good as a seamless facing into the room....

Another possibility is that they *only* offered the bath in the one
configuration, and you were supposed to design the room around it. Seems
unlikely, but who knows...

cheers

Nope, the choice was to build 'lefts' and 'rights' or put a finished
side all around.

Harry K

Hmmm...after a bit more thought...If a removable panel can be designed
to look good then the real answer is to produce a tub with no sides or
ends and provide one long panel and either one, two or no short
panels. *It would now fit any bath design. The 'appearance factor'
should not be a hard problem to solve.

Harry K

I still don't see how you would deal with the flange that goes on the
"unfinished" side.

I am referring to the flange that gets covered by the wallboard...the
flange shown up against the studs in this pictu

http://www.solwerks.net/blog/hello/3...model%2007...- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Yes, that is a major problem with his suggestion. We'll put it down
to "design" .

Harry K