I am looking for a way to create a hole through a poured concrete wall to
allow a 1-1/2 inch PVC pipe from a sump pump to go through. The "hole"
will actually be at the very top of the poured concrete wall where the wall
meets the sill plate. In fact, I could even just create a half-round
chip-out area at the top of the poured concrete for the bottom half of the
opening, and drill out the sill plate for the top half of the opening. But,
given the way everything is set up, I do need to go through the poured
concrete wall for at least part of the opening -- I can't just drill through
the sill plate etc.

I have been looking at information online about hammer drills and possibly
rotary hammers. I can find YouTube videos etc. that show people drilling
concrete, but I don't see any the show people drilling through poured
concrete basement walls. My poured concrete wall is about 6 or 8 inches
thick (I'd have to check to be sure).

My plan is to rent a hammer drill or a rotary hammer to create the hole.

Can anyone give me an idea of how hard this is to do? Will a hammer drill
or rotary hammer work for this? I am thinking that maybe I can drill
several smaller holes through the poured concrete and then chip out the rest
rather than try to drill out a single 1-1/2(+) inch hole.

Which is better to rent for this job -- a hammer drill or a rotary hammer?

On Sep 20, 6:26*am, "RogerT" wrote:
I am looking for a way to create a hole through a poured concrete wall to
allow *a 1-1/2 inch PVC pipe from a sump pump to go through. *The "hole"
will actually be at the very top of the poured concrete wall where the wall
meets the sill plate. *In fact, I could even just create a half-round
chip-out area at the top of the poured concrete for the bottom half of the
opening, and drill out the sill plate for the top half of the opening. *But,
given the way everything is set up, I do need to go through the poured
concrete wall for at least part of the opening -- I can't just drill through
the sill plate etc.

I have been looking at information online about hammer drills and possibly
rotary hammers. *I can find YouTube videos etc. that show people drilling
concrete, but I don't see any the show people drilling through poured
concrete basement walls. *My poured concrete wall is about 6 or 8 inches
thick (I'd have to check to be sure).

My plan is to rent a hammer drill or a rotary hammer to create the hole.

Can anyone give me an idea of how hard this is to do? *Will a hammer drill
or rotary hammer work for this? *I am thinking that maybe I can drill
several smaller holes through the poured concrete and then chip out the rest
rather than try to drill out a single 1-1/2(+) inch hole.

Which is better to rent for this job -- a hammer drill or a rotary hammer?

Rent the rotary hammer to begin with. If you rent a 'hammer drill'
you will go back for the rotary. BTDT. You aren't going to make a
neat round hole with anything but a coring machine. Using the rotary
hammer drill a series of holes around the outline of your big hole and
knock out the webs with a hammer. Expect a big mess for cleanup.

Harry K

On Sep 20, 6:26*am, "RogerT" wrote:
I am looking for a way to create a hole through a poured concrete wall to
allow *a 1-1/2 inch PVC pipe from a sump pump to go through. *The "hole"
will actually be at the very top of the poured concrete wall where the wall
meets the sill plate. *In fact, I could even just create a half-round
chip-out area at the top of the poured concrete for the bottom half of the
opening, and drill out the sill plate for the top half of the opening. *But,
given the way everything is set up, I do need to go through the poured
concrete wall for at least part of the opening -- I can't just drill through
the sill plate etc.

I have been looking at information online about hammer drills and possibly
rotary hammers. *I can find YouTube videos etc. that show people drilling
concrete, but I don't see any the show people drilling through poured
concrete basement walls. *My poured concrete wall is about 6 or 8 inches
thick (I'd have to check to be sure).

My plan is to rent a hammer drill or a rotary hammer to create the hole.

Can anyone give me an idea of how hard this is to do? *Will a hammer drill
or rotary hammer work for this? *I am thinking that maybe I can drill
several smaller holes through the poured concrete and then chip out the rest
rather than try to drill out a single 1-1/2(+) inch hole.

Which is better to rent for this job -- a hammer drill or a rotary hammer?

Forgot to add that you as well as a couple drill bits you will also
need a chisel bit to nibble out the scrap and neaten up the hole a
bit.

Harry K

On 9/20/2010 8:26 AM, RogerT wrote:
I am looking for a way to create a hole through a poured concrete wall to
allow a 1-1/2 inch PVC pipe from a sump pump to go through. The "hole"
will actually be at the very top of the poured concrete wall where the wall
meets the sill plate. In fact, I could even just create a half-round
chip-out area at the top of the poured concrete for the bottom half of the
opening, and drill out the sill plate for the top half of the opening. But,
given the way everything is set up, I do need to go through the poured
concrete wall for at least part of the opening -- I can't just drill through
the sill plate etc.

I have been looking at information online about hammer drills and possibly
rotary hammers. I can find YouTube videos etc. that show people drilling
concrete, but I don't see any the show people drilling through poured
concrete basement walls. My poured concrete wall is about 6 or 8 inches
thick (I'd have to check to be sure).

My plan is to rent a hammer drill or a rotary hammer to create the hole.

Can anyone give me an idea of how hard this is to do? Will a hammer drill
or rotary hammer work for this? I am thinking that maybe I can drill
several smaller holes through the poured concrete and then chip out the rest
rather than try to drill out a single 1-1/2(+) inch hole.

Which is better to rent for this job -- a hammer drill or a rotary hammer?



Why can't you just go above the sill plate and out through the rim joist
like the rest of us do? Just wonderin'....



--
Steve Barker
remove the "not" from my address to email

"RogerT" wrote:

I am looking for a way to create a hole through a poured concrete wall to
allow a 1-1/2 inch PVC pipe from a sump pump to go through.

I'd buy a 2" core drill bit [about $100 on ebay] and use my 1/2"
drill. [*not* in hammer mode] The bit I have is about 4". I'd
drill till it bottoms- chisel the waste and do it again.

Hitting re-rod might create a problem- but to do 8" of concrete would
be a 10 minute job-- and you'd end up with a nice hole exactly where
you want it.
-snip-

Which is better to rent for this job -- a hammer drill or a rotary hammer?


If you're determined to rent- I'd ask what they have in core drills.
There might be something that will plow through re-rod & 8" of
concrete in short order.

Personally- I'd rather own the tool to use another day.

Jim

On Sep 20, 2:26*pm, "RogerT" wrote:
I am looking for a way to create a hole through a poured concrete wall to
allow *a 1-1/2 inch PVC pipe from a sump pump to go through. *The "hole"
will actually be at the very top of the poured concrete wall where the wall
meets the sill plate. *In fact, I could even just create a half-round
chip-out area at the top of the poured concrete for the bottom half of the
opening, and drill out the sill plate for the top half of the opening. *But,
given the way everything is set up, I do need to go through the poured
concrete wall for at least part of the opening -- I can't just drill through
the sill plate etc.

I have been looking at information online about hammer drills and possibly
rotary hammers. *I can find YouTube videos etc. that show people drilling
concrete, but I don't see any the show people drilling through poured
concrete basement walls. *My poured concrete wall is about 6 or 8 inches
thick (I'd have to check to be sure).

My plan is to rent a hammer drill or a rotary hammer to create the hole.

Can anyone give me an idea of how hard this is to do? *Will a hammer drill
or rotary hammer work for this? *I am thinking that maybe I can drill
several smaller holes through the poured concrete and then chip out the rest
rather than try to drill out a single 1-1/2(+) inch hole.

Which is better to rent for this job -- a hammer drill or a rotary hammer?

If you want a neat hole with no "break out", rent a diamond core
drill. Faster, quieter and less effort required. Some of them need
water cooling, some don't.
It will drill 11/2" hole in 8" concrete in less than 10 minutes.

Harry K wrote:
On Sep 20, 6:26 am, "RogerT" wrote:
I am looking for a way to create a hole through a poured concrete
wall to allow a 1-1/2 inch PVC pipe from a sump pump to go through.

Which is better to rent for this job -- a hammer drill or a rotary
hammer?

Rent the rotary hammer to begin with. If you rent a 'hammer drill'
you will go back for the rotary. BTDT. You aren't going to make a
neat round hole with anything but a coring machine. Using the rotary
hammer drill a series of holes around the outline of your big hole and
knock out the webs with a hammer. Expect a big mess for cleanup.

Thanks. I think I'll try the rotary hammer.

I just went to see if they rent them at Home Depot near me and they had
hammer drills but not rotary hammers. I can check the Home Depot that is
near the property where I will be doing the work to see if they have rotary
hammers for rent.

But, I also just checked the Harbor Freight website and I may just go ahead
and buy one since they are only $80 and their store is on my way to the
property. Here's what I saw on their website:

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-in-1-...mer-97743.html .

Steve Barker wrote:
On 9/20/2010 8:26 AM, RogerT wrote:
I am looking for a way to create a hole through a poured concrete

Why can't you just go above the sill plate and out through the rim
joist like the rest of us do? Just wonderin'....

It's a little hard to explain but, the joists run one way and the PVC will
be running the other way across the room and across the joists. If I run
the PVC up at the end to get up over the poured concrete wall and go out
through the sill plate or rim joist, the sump pump will have a long pipe
full of water sitting on top of it when it's not pumping. I would rather
have the top pipe that goes across the room be able to empty and not reman
full of water in between pumps. Goig striaght out through the top of the
concrete wall will allow that.

On Mon, 20 Sep 2010 15:00:49 -0400, "RogerT"
wrote:

Steve Barker wrote:
On 9/20/2010 8:26 AM, RogerT wrote:
I am looking for a way to create a hole through a poured concrete

Why can't you just go above the sill plate and out through the rim
joist like the rest of us do? Just wonderin'....

It's a little hard to explain but, the joists run one way and the PVC will
be running the other way across the room and across the joists. If I run
the PVC up at the end to get up over the poured concrete wall and go out
through the sill plate or rim joist, the sump pump will have a long pipe
full of water sitting on top of it when it's not pumping. I would rather
have the top pipe that goes across the room be able to empty and not reman
full of water in between pumps. Goig striaght out through the top of the
concrete wall will allow that.


The water won't be bearing on the pump, it will be bearing on the
check valve. You need a check valve above the pump or the water will
just drain backwards through the pump into the sump when the pump
shuts off. Spend a few extra bucks for high quality check valve and
you're done. I prefer the PVC type that are combo checkvalves and ball
valves so you can fuss with the pump without all the water pouring out
of the pipe.

Now if you're worried it might freeze, that's a different matter, but
as long as you can slope the short length that goes through the sill
so it drains, it should be fine unless your basement or crawl space
gets really cold.

HTH,

Paul

Paul Franklin wrote:

The water won't be bearing on the pump, it will be bearing on the
check valve. You need a check valve above the pump or the water will
just drain backwards through the pump into the sump when the pump
shuts off. Spend a few extra bucks for high quality check valve and
you're done. I prefer the PVC type that are combo checkvalves and ball
valves so you can fuss with the pump without all the water pouring out
of the pipe.

Now if you're worried it might freeze, that's a different matter, but
as long as you can slope the short length that goes through the sill
so it drains, it should be fine unless your basement or crawl space
gets really cold.

HTH,

Paul

Thanks. My system does have a check valve. I don't mind there being 5 or 6
feet of water in the vertical pipe above the check valve. I just don't want
another 25 feet of horizontal pipe full of water also being above the check
valve. So, my plan is designed to prevent that from happening.

"Harry K" wrote in message
...
On Sep 20, 6:26 am, "RogerT" wrote:
I am looking for a way to create a hole through a poured concrete wall to
allow a 1-1/2 inch PVC pipe from a sump pump to go through. The "hole"
will actually be at the very top of the poured concrete wall where the
wall
meets the sill plate. . . . . .

My plan is to rent a hammer drill or a rotary hammer to create the hole.

Can anyone give me an idea of how hard this is to do? Will a hammer drill
or rotary hammer work for this? I am thinking that maybe I can drill
several smaller holes through the poured concrete and then chip out the
rest
rather than try to drill out a single 1-1/2(+) inch hole.

Which is better to rent for this job -- a hammer drill or a rotary hammer?

Rent the rotary hammer to begin with. If you rent a 'hammer drill'
you will go back for the rotary. BTDT. You aren't going to make a
neat round hole with anything but a coring machine. Using the rotary
hammer drill a series of holes around the outline of your big hole and
knock out the webs with a hammer. Expect a big mess for cleanup.

+++++++++++++

Thanks. Here's the update. I bought a rotary hammer at Harbor Freight
today for $79.95 and a $15.95 set of 5 SDS masonry drill bits.

Drilling with the rotary hammer went pretty well -- a lot easier than I
thought it would. But after drilling 5 or 6 quarter-inch holes in a U-shape
at the top of the wall, I had a pretty hard time breaking out what was left
to create the hole. It turns out that the poured concrete wall is about 12
inches thick.

I tried hitting it with a hammer but that didn't work. Then I tried using
the hammer/"chipper" attachment that came with the rotary hammer with it set
in just the "hammer" position. That worked a little, but not too well. The
problem is that the only chipper attachment that came with the rotary hammer
was a pointed one. That tends to bore in but not break off pieces too well.
What I think I need is a chipper with a flat blade on the end. I had a
small pry bar with me with a flat edge and that worked a little better by
trying the use that as a chisel, but I either needed to have a regular flat
edge cold chisel with me (which I didn't), or I need to get the flat chisel
attachment for the rotary hammer.

So, the job only 2/3 done and I'll finish it when I get the right chisel
tool and/or attachment, and I think the rest of the job will go pretty
easily.

But thanks again for suggesting the rotary hammer. I'm glad I bought it and
it does work well. I just need the right type of chisel attachment and/or a
flat blade cold chisel at this point.

On 9/25/2010 6:56 PM, RogerT wrote:
(snip)
+++++++++++++

Thanks. Here's the update. I bought a rotary hammer at Harbor Freight
today for $79.95 and a $15.95 set of 5 SDS masonry drill bits.

Drilling with the rotary hammer went pretty well -- a lot easier than I
thought it would. But after drilling 5 or 6 quarter-inch holes in a
U-shape at the top of the wall, I had a pretty hard time breaking out
what was left to create the hole. It turns out that the poured concrete
wall is about 12 inches thick.

I tried hitting it with a hammer but that didn't work. Then I tried
using the hammer/"chipper" attachment that came with the rotary hammer
with it set in just the "hammer" position. That worked a little, but not
too well. The problem is that the only chipper attachment that came with
the rotary hammer was a pointed one. That tends to bore in but not break
off pieces too well. What I think I need is a chipper with a flat blade
on the end. I had a small pry bar with me with a flat edge and that
worked a little better by trying the use that as a chisel, but I either
needed to have a regular flat edge cold chisel with me (which I didn't),
or I need to get the flat chisel attachment for the rotary hammer.

So, the job only 2/3 done and I'll finish it when I get the right chisel
tool and/or attachment, and I think the rest of the job will go pretty
easily.

But thanks again for suggesting the rotary hammer. I'm glad I bought it
and it does work well. I just need the right type of chisel attachment
and/or a flat blade cold chisel at this point.

So several hours of hard labor and 100 bucks later, you still aren't
done. But at least you had fun, and got a new tool out of it, even if it
is only a HF special.

Stuff like that, I'd rather call somebody in who owns the right tool (in
this case a core drill). and has done it before. Around here, that hole
done by a concrete cutting sub would have run maybe $150, and he would
have been in and out in an hour. And the hole would have been pretty.

But that's just me. I do understand the satisfaction of not letting a
challenge defeat you and all. But lately, now that I have a little
cashflow, some things just don't seem worth the hassle any more.

--
aem sends....

aemeijers wrote:
On 9/25/2010 6:56 PM, RogerT wrote:
(snip)
+++++++++++++

Thanks. Here's the update. I bought a rotary hammer at Harbor Freight
today for $79.95 and a $15.95 set of 5 SDS masonry drill bits.

Drilling with the rotary hammer went pretty well -- a lot easier
than I thought it would. But after drilling 5 or 6 quarter-inch
holes in a U-shape at the top of the wall, I had a pretty hard time
breaking out what was left to create the hole. It turns out that the
poured concrete wall is about 12 inches thick.

I tried hitting it with a hammer but that didn't work. Then I tried
using the hammer/"chipper" attachment that came with the rotary
hammer with it set in just the "hammer" position. That worked a
little, but not too well. The problem is that the only chipper
attachment that came with the rotary hammer was a pointed one. That
tends to bore in but not break off pieces too well. What I think I
need is a chipper with a flat blade on the end. I had a small pry
bar with me with a flat edge and that worked a little better by
trying the use that as a chisel, but I either needed to have a
regular flat edge cold chisel with me (which I didn't), or I need to
get the flat chisel attachment for the rotary hammer. So, the job only
2/3 done and I'll finish it when I get the right
chisel tool and/or attachment, and I think the rest of the job will
go pretty easily.

But thanks again for suggesting the rotary hammer. I'm glad I bought
it and it does work well. I just need the right type of chisel
attachment and/or a flat blade cold chisel at this point.

So several hours of hard labor and 100 bucks later, you still aren't
done. But at least you had fun, and got a new tool out of it, even if
it is only a HF special.

Yep, all true. I'm having fun, and I got to buy a new tool that I do expect
to use more in the future. So far, it was only about an hour of actual
labor before I figured out I should just get the right chisel bit before
continuing. But there was also travel time to get therotary hammer and
to/from the job, plus time reading the directions on the tool etc.

Stuff like that, I'd rather call somebody in who owns the right tool
(in this case a core drill). and has done it before. Around here,
that hole done by a concrete cutting sub would have run maybe $150,
and he would have been in and out in an hour. And the hole would have
been pretty.
But that's just me. I do understand the satisfaction of not letting a
challenge defeat you and all. But lately, now that I have a little
cashflow, some things just don't seem worth the hassle any more.

I do have the money and I could have paid someone, but that would have
involved time finding someone, then arranging to be there and going there to
watch them do it, and hope that they actually show up when they said they
would.

On Sep 27, 6:53*am, "RogerT" wrote:
aemeijers wrote:
On 9/25/2010 6:56 PM, RogerT wrote:
(snip)
+++++++++++++

Thanks. Here's the update. I bought a rotary hammer at Harbor Freight
today for $79.95 and a $15.95 set of 5 SDS masonry drill bits.

Drilling with the rotary hammer went pretty well -- a lot easier
than I thought it would. But after drilling 5 or 6 quarter-inch
holes in a U-shape at the top of the wall, I had a pretty hard time
breaking out what was left to create the hole. It turns out that the
poured concrete wall is about 12 inches thick.

I tried hitting it with a hammer but that didn't work. Then I tried
using the hammer/"chipper" attachment that came with the rotary
hammer with it set in just the "hammer" position. That worked a
little, but not too well. The problem is that the only chipper
attachment that came with the rotary hammer was a pointed one. That
tends to bore in but not break off pieces too well. What I think I
need is a chipper with a flat blade on the end. I had a small pry
bar with me with a flat edge and that worked a little better by
trying the use that as a chisel, but I either needed to have a
regular flat edge cold chisel with me (which I didn't), or I need to
get the flat chisel attachment for the rotary hammer. So, the job only
2/3 done and I'll finish it when I get the right
chisel tool and/or attachment, and I think the rest of the job will
go pretty easily.

But thanks again for suggesting the rotary hammer. I'm glad I bought
it and it does work well. I just need the right type of chisel
attachment and/or a flat blade cold chisel at this point.
So several hours of hard labor and 100 bucks later, you still aren't
done. But at least you had fun, and got a new tool out of it, even if
it is only a HF special.

Yep, all true. *I'm having fun, and I got to buy a new tool that I do expect
to use more in the future. *So far, it was only about an hour of actual
labor before I figured out I should just get the right chisel bit before
continuing. *But there was also travel time to get therotary hammer and
to/from the job, plus time reading the directions on the tool etc.

Stuff like that, I'd rather call somebody in who owns the right tool
(in this case a core drill). and has done it before. Around here,
that hole done by a concrete cutting sub would have run maybe $150,
and he would have been in and out in an hour. And the hole would have
been pretty.
But that's just me. I do understand the satisfaction of not letting a
challenge defeat you and all. But lately, now that I have a little
cashflow, some things just don't seem worth the hassle any more.

I do have the money and I could have paid someone, but that would have
involved time finding someone, then arranging to be there and going there to
watch them do it, and hope that they actually show up when they said they
would.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Well, you _could_ have cut the time down some by not reading the
instructions I thought reading those was banned for DIYers.

Harry K

Please URGENTLY share any concrete person's contact info, we just discovered our landscaper poured concrete and blocked drainage so we need someone to quite simply bore a drainage hole in concrete or block wall ASAP.

On Sun, 1 Nov 2015 11:14:03 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Please URGENTLY share any concrete person's contact info, we just discovered our landscaper poured concrete and blocked drainage so we need someone to quite simply bore a drainage hole in concrete or block wall ASAP.

Why don't you get off your lazy ass and "let your fingers do the
walking?"

On Sun, 1 Nov 2015 11:14:03 -0800 (PST), wrote:

Please URGENTLY share any concrete person's contact info, we just discovered our landscaper poured concrete and blocked drainage so we need someone to quite simply bore a drainage hole in concrete or block wall ASAP.

I know a great guy in Westminster, Maryland. Please email your
address and phone number and I'll have him call you.

I would think your landscaper probably has a hammer drill. You ddin't
tell anyone where you live or what size hole you think you need. I
would suspect you want someone with a dry core bit to bore a 2" or
larger hole. Home depot would typically have some of these tools in
their rental department.

On 11/1/2015 1:14 PM, wrote:
Please URGENTLY share any concrete person's contact info, we just discovered our landscaper poured concrete and blocked drainage so we need someone to quite simply bore a drainage hole in concrete or block wall ASAP.

DanG posted for all of us...



I would think your landscaper probably has a hammer drill. You ddin't
tell anyone where you live or what size hole you think you need. I
would suspect you want someone with a dry core bit to bore a 2" or
larger hole. Home depot would typically have some of these tools in
their rental department.

On 11/1/2015 1:14 PM, wrote:
Please URGENTLY share any concrete person's contact info, we just discovered our landscaper poured concrete and blocked drainage so we need someone to quite simply bore a drainage hole in concrete or block wall ASAP.


He only needs a hole the size of a straw!

--
Tekkie

wrote in message
...
Please URGENTLY share any concrete person's contact info, we just
discovered our landscaper poured concrete and blocked drainage so we need
someone to quite simply bore a drainage hole in concrete or block wall
ASAP.

Landscaper's fault, make landscaper fix it.