We have all experienced screw heads breaking off on occasion and its
always quite a job to get the old one out and then trying to fix the
damage.

I've tried a couple of tpical screw extraction products such as ones
from Harbor Freight and HD, but they both sucked and actually broke
while trying to use them.

Occasionally I've seen on TV some magical extractors but we all know
what adviertizing is like...

For those of you you may have had success with some and would like to
recommend a good solution or two I would greatly appreciate hearing of
you choice(s).

I figure, if one purchases something that actually works, it worth the
investment rather than buy junk only to throw it away and still have
the problem to solve.

Thanks IA -

On Jun 3, 6:44*am, bobmct wrote:
We have all experienced screw heads breaking off on occasion and its
always quite a job to get the old one out and then trying to fix the
damage.

I've tried a couple of tpical screw extraction products such as ones
from Harbor Freight and HD, but they both sucked and actually broke
while trying to use them.

Occasionally I've seen on TV some magical extractors but we all know
what adviertizing is like...

For those of you you may have had success with some and would like to
recommend a good solution or two I would greatly appreciate hearing of
you choice(s).

I figure, if one purchases something that actually works, it worth the
investment rather than buy junk only to throw it away and still have
the problem to solve.

Thanks IA -

Mileage always varies with screw extractors. The screw wouldn't come
out in the first place so extracting it is always iffy. The extractor
creates outward pressure as it attempts to embed in the screw. That
makes the problem worse.

Bets case is don't break it. Soak in wd40 or you favorite penatrating
oil for several days. If it will turn at all just work it back a
forth carefully. Let soak more.

Another option is to heat the surrounding metal. You really need an
oxy/act or mapp torch for this though. Propane is too slow.
Sometimes combine heat and soaking.

I often just drill with increasing sized bits until I start to expose
the threads. Then a tap will chase out the remaining metal. You need
to be really accurate. Helps to use a center puch and really small
bit to get exactly in the center. to start with.

"bobmct" wrote in message
...
We have all experienced screw heads breaking off on occasion and its
always quite a job to get the old one out and then trying to fix the
damage.

I've tried a couple of tpical screw extraction products such as ones
from Harbor Freight and HD, but they both sucked and actually broke
while trying to use them.

Occasionally I've seen on TV some magical extractors but we all know
what adviertizing is like...

For those of you you may have had success with some and would like to
recommend a good solution or two I would greatly appreciate hearing of
you choice(s).

I figure, if one purchases something that actually works, it worth the
investment rather than buy junk only to throw it away and still have
the problem to solve.

Thanks IA -

Screw extraction can be tricky, depending on why the screw broke in the
first place. Sears sells a set of extractors that are kind of interesting,
they are like these:
http://www1.mscdirect.com/CGI/NNSRIT...r=1902%50mode=

They also sell smaller ones.

What I like about these over traditional easy outs is that you do not need
to drill as deep to get a bite with the extractor.

What size screw do you have and what is the material that it is broken off
in? If it is a steel screw broken off in aluminum or brass you can simmer
it in an alum solution and rust away the screw and leave the aluminum
unscathed.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

I've also had my share of problems; they seem worse when I pick a size
that's too small. As mentioned, center punches and little drill bits
help in getting an accurate center. This helps being able to go
bigger.

In article ,
bobmct wrote:

We have all experienced screw heads breaking off on occasion and its
always quite a job to get the old one out and then trying to fix the
damage.

I've tried a couple of tpical screw extraction products such as ones
from Harbor Freight and HD, but they both sucked and actually broke
while trying to use them.

Occasionally I've seen on TV some magical extractors but we all know
what adviertizing is like...

For those of you you may have had success with some and would like to
recommend a good solution or two I would greatly appreciate hearing of
you choice(s).

I figure, if one purchases something that actually works, it worth the
investment rather than buy junk only to throw it away and still have
the problem to solve.

Thanks IA -

Never met an extractor I liked. If possible, drill out the screw
instead.

"Smitty Two" wrote in message
news
In article ,
bobmct wrote:

We have all experienced screw heads breaking off on occasion and its
always quite a job to get the old one out and then trying to fix the
damage.

I've tried a couple of tpical screw extraction products such as ones
from Harbor Freight and HD, but they both sucked and actually broke
while trying to use them.

Occasionally I've seen on TV some magical extractors but we all know
what adviertizing is like...

For those of you you may have had success with some and would like to
recommend a good solution or two I would greatly appreciate hearing of
you choice(s).

I figure, if one purchases something that actually works, it worth the
investment rather than buy junk only to throw it away and still have
the problem to solve.

Thanks IA -

Never met an extractor I liked. If possible, drill out the screw
instead.

I've often been successful extracting a screw using a left-handed drill bit
(and drill in reverse).
--
Peace,
BobJ

On 2010-06-03, bobmct wrote:

I've tried a couple of tpical screw extraction products such as ones
from Harbor Freight and HD, but they both sucked and actually broke
while trying to use them.

Never buy discount/tv screw extractors. I know the hype is often
overwhelmingly alluring, but it's all crap. Screw extraction is
tricky, exacting, and fraught with pitfalls. If you want to avoid
costly last-ditch methods, pay attention and spend the $$$ up front.

I figure, if one purchases something that actually works, it worth the
investment rather than buy junk only to throw it away and still have
the problem to solve.

Good attitude!! ...and dead nuts on!

First, buy a quality screw extractor system. I'm talking quality
extractors made of high quality steel and requiring drilling a proper
hole first. There are two main types. One is a square shape with
little flutes at each corner. The other is a reverse spiral. Both
work equally well, but require a precise pre-drilled hole. Typically,
both have a square headed drive and require something like a T-shaped
tap handle to use properly. I realize this sounds costly, but not as
costly as failure.

These can be found at machinist tool supply outlets/shops. Again,
better to buy the good stuff, even if you have to do so online. You
might also check an automotive parts store. Auto mechanics are always
doing broken bolt removal and auto parts stores usually carry pretty
good quality screw removal tools. Try your local Napa store.

Second, make sure you have good drills and a center punch. Punch a
center. Take your time and be as accurate as you can. Drilling an
accurate and straight hole is the primary KEY to success. Use quality
high speed steel drills (HSS) to make the hole. Use a good cutting
fluid to make a clean hole. It can't hurt to soak the hole/screw with
all kinds of lubricants and bolt derusting/breaker solutions. Also,
make sure you drill the right sized hole for the screw/bolt size and
correct extractor size. Fudging is a sure-fire prelude to failure.
Finally, tap the extractor in with a small hammer to get a secure
grip, attach the handle, and begin the extraction. If you have
proceeded carefully, methodically, and accurately, you should meet
with success. If not, there's always EDM ....electrical discharge
machining (the costly last ditch option).

OH.... one fellow recommmended a reverse or left handed drill. Can't
hurt and sometimes it works, specially with smaller screws. If you
want to try it, again drill an straight accurate hole. It will either
work and back out the screw ...or not! If it doesn't remove the
screw, at least you will have a proper hole to proceed with the
extractor tool.

Good luck!

nb

I learned my lesson after a couple of attempts. If this is on an
important part, I drop it off at a machine shop and pay a pro to do
it. Sounds like others may have had better luck.

On the welding group, several people have reported success welding a
washer to the end of the screw and then welding a nut to the washer.
Probably easier with larger bolts and may require more welding skill
than I have. I'll have to try it some day though.

On Thu, 03 Jun 2010 17:40:00 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2010-06-03, bobmct wrote:

I've tried a couple of tpical screw extraction products such as ones
from Harbor Freight and HD, but they both sucked and actually broke
while trying to use them.

Never buy discount/tv screw extractors. I know the hype is often
overwhelmingly alluring, but it's all crap. Screw extraction is
tricky, exacting, and fraught with pitfalls. If you want to avoid
costly last-ditch methods, pay attention and spend the $$$ up front.

I figure, if one purchases something that actually works, it worth the
investment rather than buy junk only to throw it away and still have
the problem to solve.

Good attitude!! ...and dead nuts on!

First, buy a quality screw extractor system. I'm talking quality
extractors made of high quality steel and requiring drilling a proper
hole first. There are two main types. One is a square shape with
little flutes at each corner. The other is a reverse spiral. Both
work equally well, but require a precise pre-drilled hole. Typically,
both have a square headed drive and require something like a T-shaped
tap handle to use properly. I realize this sounds costly, but not as
costly as failure.

These can be found at machinist tool supply outlets/shops. Again,
better to buy the good stuff, even if you have to do so online. You
might also check an automotive parts store. Auto mechanics are always
doing broken bolt removal and auto parts stores usually carry pretty
good quality screw removal tools. Try your local Napa store.

Second, make sure you have good drills and a center punch. Punch a
center. Take your time and be as accurate as you can. Drilling an
accurate and straight hole is the primary KEY to success. Use quality
high speed steel drills (HSS) to make the hole. Use a good cutting
fluid to make a clean hole. It can't hurt to soak the hole/screw with
all kinds of lubricants and bolt derusting/breaker solutions. Also,
make sure you drill the right sized hole for the screw/bolt size and
correct extractor size. Fudging is a sure-fire prelude to failure.
Finally, tap the extractor in with a small hammer to get a secure
grip, attach the handle, and begin the extraction. If you have
proceeded carefully, methodically, and accurately, you should meet
with success. If not, there's always EDM ....electrical discharge
machining (the costly last ditch option).

OH.... one fellow recommmended a reverse or left handed drill. Can't
hurt and sometimes it works, specially with smaller screws. If you
want to try it, again drill an straight accurate hole. It will either
work and back out the screw ...or not! If it doesn't remove the
screw, at least you will have a proper hole to proceed with the
extractor tool.

Good luck!

nb

Couldn't agree more. One thing to add.

Invest in a good magnifying glass with a light to ensure that the
drill is centered. Use a SMALL drill to start with and maneuver it by
changing the drill angle until it IS centered. Then line up the drill
perpendicular. Use this small drill to make a pilot hole before going
to the finished size hole. I have used this method with #55 pilot
drills and a very steady hand. If done right the screw will always
come out unless it is welded in place.

On Thu, 03 Jun 2010 17:40:00 GMT, notbob wrote:

On 2010-06-03, bobmct wrote:

I've tried a couple of tpical screw extraction products such as ones
from Harbor Freight and HD, but they both sucked and actually broke
while trying to use them.

Never buy discount/tv screw extractors. I know the hype is often
overwhelmingly alluring, but it's all crap. Screw extraction is
tricky, exacting, and fraught with pitfalls. If you want to avoid
costly last-ditch methods, pay attention and spend the $$$ up front.

I figure, if one purchases something that actually works, it worth the
investment rather than buy junk only to throw it away and still have
the problem to solve.

Good attitude!! ...and dead nuts on!

First, buy a quality screw extractor system. I'm talking quality
extractors made of high quality steel and requiring drilling a proper
hole first. There are two main types. One is a square shape with
little flutes at each corner. The other is a reverse spiral. Both
work equally well, but require a precise pre-drilled hole. Typically,
both have a square headed drive and require something like a T-shaped
tap handle to use properly. I realize this sounds costly, but not as
costly as failure.

These can be found at machinist tool supply outlets/shops. Again,
better to buy the good stuff, even if you have to do so online. You
might also check an automotive parts store. Auto mechanics are always
doing broken bolt removal and auto parts stores usually carry pretty
good quality screw removal tools. Try your local Napa store.

Second, make sure you have good drills and a center punch. Punch a
center. Take your time and be as accurate as you can. Drilling an
accurate and straight hole is the primary KEY to success. Use quality
high speed steel drills (HSS) to make the hole. Use a good cutting
fluid to make a clean hole. It can't hurt to soak the hole/screw with
all kinds of lubricants and bolt derusting/breaker solutions. Also,
make sure you drill the right sized hole for the screw/bolt size and
correct extractor size. Fudging is a sure-fire prelude to failure.
Finally, tap the extractor in with a small hammer to get a secure
grip, attach the handle, and begin the extraction. If you have
proceeded carefully, methodically, and accurately, you should meet
with success. If not, there's always EDM ....electrical discharge
machining (the costly last ditch option).

OH.... one fellow recommmended a reverse or left handed drill. Can't
hurt and sometimes it works, specially with smaller screws. If you
want to try it, again drill an straight accurate hole. It will either
work and back out the screw ...or not! If it doesn't remove the
screw, at least you will have a proper hole to proceed with the
extractor tool.

Good luck!

nb

Outstanding!

I would only add that the purpose of the center punch will prevent a
drill bit from dancing around. The punch prevents this problem.

On 6/3/2010 5:44 AM, bobmct wrote:
We have all experienced screw heads breaking off on occasion and its
always quite a job to get the old one out and then trying to fix the
damage.

I've tried a couple of tpical screw extraction products such as ones
from Harbor Freight and HD, but they both sucked and actually broke
while trying to use them.

Occasionally I've seen on TV some magical extractors but we all know
what adviertizing is like...

For those of you you may have had success with some and would like to
recommend a good solution or two I would greatly appreciate hearing of
you choice(s).

I figure, if one purchases something that actually works, it worth the
investment rather than buy junk only to throw it away and still have
the problem to solve.

Thanks IA -

The best screw extractors I've ever used were of the type shown in
the link below. The type is available from several manufacturers
with different brand names but they're all virtually identical.

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/otc4651.html

TDD

Someone here was advocating such demanding accuracy for an extractor
hole that you might as well drill it out. I've removed a lot of broken
bolts, even broken taps, by drilling.

Now we know for sure that you don't know what you are talking about.

On 06/04/2010 09:22 PM, wrote:

Someone here was advocating such demanding accuracy for an extractor
hole that you might as well drill it out. I've removed a lot of broken
bolts, even broken taps, by drilling.

Now we know for sure that you don't know what you are talking about.


yeah, if you have a drill bit that will drill through a decent tap... I
want some!

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

On 6/4/2010 8:49 PM, Nate Nagel wrote:
On 06/04/2010 09:22 PM, wrote:

Someone here was advocating such demanding accuracy for an extractor
hole that you might as well drill it out. I've removed a lot of broken
bolts, even broken taps, by drilling.

Now we know for sure that you don't know what you are talking about.


yeah, if you have a drill bit that will drill through a decent tap... I
want some!

nate


I use a Dremel tool with an abrasive/diamond bit for the hardest stuff.
There have been times when the little rotary tool comes in handy for
cutting slots in broken head studs on generators so I can use a
screwdriver to back them out. I've also used the Dremel tool to dig a
hole in a broken stud to get a screw extractor in it or to start a
hole for a drill bit. The tool can used to cut out a broken tap too.

TDD

In article ,
wrote:

On Fri, 04 Jun 2010 08:28:30 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
wrote:


Drilling to the root of the thread is only the last resort. In order
to have success with this method you must be even more accurate
with centering the drill. Then you have to cross your fingers that the
remaining bolt thread will come out cleanly and leave 100% of the
original surrounding steel.

It's the first resort in a machine shop.

You don't know what you are talking about.

Sorry, I should have qualified that statement. In the machine shop I've
been working around for 25 years, we always drill out broken
screws/bolts. I don't know what other shops do. Maybe they use
extractors from Sears.

In article ,
Nate Nagel wrote:

yeah, if you have a drill bit that will drill through a decent tap... I
want some!

nate

Solid carbide, Nate. Actually an end mill is a better choice, assuming
you've got a milling machine handy.

On 6/4/2010 11:29 PM, Smitty Two wrote:
In ,
wrote:

On Fri, 04 Jun 2010 08:28:30 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In ,
wrote:


Drilling to the root of the thread is only the last resort. In order
to have success with this method you must be even more accurate
with centering the drill. Then you have to cross your fingers that the
remaining bolt thread will come out cleanly and leave 100% of the
original surrounding steel.

It's the first resort in a machine shop.

You don't know what you are talking about.

Sorry, I should have qualified that statement. In the machine shop I've
been working around for 25 years, we always drill out broken
screws/bolts. I don't know what other shops do. Maybe they use
extractors from Sears.

I've taken a valuable assembly to a machine shop on occasion to get
the experts to remove a broken bolt and the machinist would use a
carbide tipped bit like that used to drill concrete, chuck in his
drill press and carefully drill out the hardened broken bolt. I go
to a machine shop when I fear I may damage something when trying to
extract a broken bolt.

TDD

I use a Dremel tool with an abrasive/diamond bit for the hardest stuff.
cut
The tool can used to cut out a broken tap too.

You mean grind............How do you grind a 1/4x20
tap a 1/2 inch long in a hole with a Dremel without
grinding the bores threads off. You must have a lot
of time and an extremely steady/accurate hand.

Additionally how do you get the center of the abrasive
tip to grind when you plunge, seeing how it's surface
speed is minimal.

On Fri, 04 Jun 2010 21:36:06 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
Nate Nagel wrote:

yeah, if you have a drill bit that will drill through a decent tap... I
want some!

nate

Solid carbide, Nate. Actually an end mill is a better choice, assuming
you've got a milling machine handy.

You have to be kidding. Have you ever even set foot into a machine
shop?

Videos are cheap to make and post. Show me a tap that you can drill
out. Then mill one out. This should be easy for you. You have said
you've done it many times.

In article ,
wrote:

On Fri, 04 Jun 2010 21:36:06 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In article ,
Nate Nagel wrote:

yeah, if you have a drill bit that will drill through a decent tap... I
want some!

nate

Solid carbide, Nate. Actually an end mill is a better choice, assuming
you've got a milling machine handy.

You have to be kidding. Have you ever even set foot into a machine
shop?

Videos are cheap to make and post. Show me a tap that you can drill
out. Then mill one out. This should be easy for you. You have said
you've done it many times.

I've set foot in a machine shop every day for 25 years, but I'm not
going to make a video to prove it to you. I'll assume that means you'll
choose to continue to doubt me. That's fine, but if you aren't aware
that solid carbide can cut through a tap, I'd say you're the one who's
only peered into the window of a shop on your way to whatever it is you
do.

Google something like "remove broken tap" and you'll see all manner of
references to drilling or milling them out with carbide tools. Maybe
you'll even find a video.

On 06/05/2010 11:30 AM, Smitty Two wrote:
In ,
wrote:

On Fri, 04 Jun 2010 21:36:06 -0700, Smitty Two
wrote:

In ,
Nate wrote:

yeah, if you have a drill bit that will drill through a decent tap... I
want some!

nate

Solid carbide, Nate. Actually an end mill is a better choice, assuming
you've got a milling machine handy.

You have to be kidding. Have you ever even set foot into a machine
shop?

Videos are cheap to make and post. Show me a tap that you can drill
out. Then mill one out. This should be easy for you. You have said
you've done it many times.

I've set foot in a machine shop every day for 25 years, but I'm not
going to make a video to prove it to you. I'll assume that means you'll
choose to continue to doubt me. That's fine, but if you aren't aware
that solid carbide can cut through a tap, I'd say you're the one who's
only peered into the window of a shop on your way to whatever it is you
do.

Google something like "remove broken tap" and you'll see all manner of
references to drilling or milling them out with carbide tools. Maybe
you'll even find a video.

Solid carbide isn't something that most people are likely to have laying
around, nor is it easy to purchase except through an industrial supply.
Nor would it likely work well chucked into a hand drill, as I'm given
to understand that it's pretty brittle.

I don't have a milling machine handy... I wouldn't mind having one, but
the cost involved (and the additions to my garage) make the cost a
little steep...

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

In article ,
Nate Nagel wrote:


Solid carbide isn't something that most people are likely to have laying
around, nor is it easy to purchase except through an industrial supply.
Nor would it likely work well chucked into a hand drill, as I'm given
to understand that it's pretty brittle.

I don't have a milling machine handy... I wouldn't mind having one, but
the cost involved (and the additions to my garage) make the cost a
little steep...

nate

Milk isn't easy to purchase except through a store that carries food
items, either. Hey, if you don't have an industrial supply store on your
block, let the internet bring one to you. But you're correct, carbide
isn't appropriate for a hand drill. Most people have at least a drill
press, though.

Machines are relatively cheap and plentiful these days, particularly
older manual machines. It's the moving, installation, electrical
requirements that add up. But when it gets to the point where I don't
have access to a shop, I'll pony up for at least a lathe and a mill in
the garage.

I've set foot in a machine shop every day for 25 years, but I'm not
going to make a video to prove it to you. I'll assume that means you'll
choose to continue to doubt me. That's fine, but if you aren't aware
that solid carbide can cut through a tap, I'd say you're the one who's
only peered into the window of a shop on your way to whatever it is you
do.

Google something like "remove broken tap" and you'll see all manner of
references to drilling or milling them out with carbide tools. Maybe
you'll even find a video.

First there is no doubt that carbide can cut hardened steel however
carbide made for steel is extremely brittle. The intermittent cuts
that would take place for 90% of all broken taps would make it a bad
and expensive choice.

Second, nice try at deflecting your response to the OPs question

On 2010-06-05, wrote:

Additionally how do you get the center of the abrasive
tip to grind when you plunge, seeing how it's surface
speed is minimal.

This guy is so full of crap, I hadda defrag my HDD!

nb

On 6/5/2010 7:22 AM, wrote:

I use a Dremel tool with an abrasive/diamond bit for the hardest stuff.
cut
The tool can used to cut out a broken tap too.

You mean grind............How do you grind a 1/4x20
tap a 1/2 inch long in a hole with a Dremel without
grinding the bores threads off. You must have a lot
of time and an extremely steady/accurate hand.

Additionally how do you get the center of the abrasive
tip to grind when you plunge, seeing how it's surface
speed is minimal.


You pretend to be a dentist. *snicker*

TDD

In article ,
wrote:

I've set foot in a machine shop every day for 25 years, but I'm not
going to make a video to prove it to you. I'll assume that means you'll
choose to continue to doubt me. That's fine, but if you aren't aware
that solid carbide can cut through a tap, I'd say you're the one who's
only peered into the window of a shop on your way to whatever it is you
do.

Google something like "remove broken tap" and you'll see all manner of
references to drilling or milling them out with carbide tools. Maybe
you'll even find a video.

First there is no doubt that carbide can cut hardened steel however
carbide made for steel is extremely brittle. The intermittent cuts
that would take place for 90% of all broken taps would make it a bad
and expensive choice.

Second, nice try at deflecting your response to the OPs question

MEGO

Larry Fishel wrote:

On the welding group, several people have reported success welding a
washer to the end of the screw and then welding a nut to the washer.
Probably easier with larger bolts and may require more welding skill
than I have. I'll have to try it some day though.

I have a little mig welder at home and we have a couple at work. I always
use this method and it has never failed. I just build up the broken bolt
a little at a time. Bzzt, bzzt, bzzt... Either grab the nub with vice grips
or weld a nut over it. It might take a few tries. And not too hot-- don't
want too much penetration as to weld the bolt completely over! I used
to do this all the time in an automotive machine shop.

On 06/05/2010 05:11 PM, Fishface wrote:
Larry Fishel wrote:

On the welding group, several people have reported success welding a
washer to the end of the screw and then welding a nut to the washer.
Probably easier with larger bolts and may require more welding skill
than I have. I'll have to try it some day though.

I have a little mig welder at home and we have a couple at work. I always
use this method and it has never failed. I just build up the broken bolt
a little at a time. Bzzt, bzzt, bzzt... Either grab the nub with vice grips
or weld a nut over it. It might take a few tries. And not too hot-- don't
want too much penetration as to weld the bolt completely over! I used
to do this all the time in an automotive machine shop.

That works, but I've found that if someone used a crappy, low-quality
bolt, that it's damn near impossible to get weld to stick to it.
Fortunately, those are the same bolts that are easiest to drill out.

nate

--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

"Nate Nagel" wrote in message
...
On 06/04/2010 09:22 PM, wrote:


yeah, if you have a drill bit that will drill through a decent tap... I
want some!


You can drill high speed steel with a solid carbide bit available at any
good machine shop supply.

They are very pricey however and also very fragile. You also can get high
speed steel bits that have carbide tips brazed on. Those tend tobreak also
but it is easier to extract the broken bits of carbide rather than having a
big chunk of broken drill in a broken tap.

--

Roger Shoaf

About the time I had mastered getting the toothpaste back in the tube, then
they come up with this striped stuff.

replying to bobmct, Joe wrote:
How do I get new wheels for my old Atlantic Suitcase

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...rk-445206-.htm

On 6/11/2018 2:14 PM, Joe wrote:
replying to bobmct, Joe wrote:
How do I get new wheels for my old Atlantic Suitcase

Buy a machine lathe and make them from some aluminum bar stock .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety .
Get off my lawn !

On 06/11/2018 01:57 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/11/2018 2:14 PM, Joe wrote:
replying to bobmct, Joe wrote:
How do I get new wheels for my old Atlantic Suitcase

Buy a machine lathe and make them from some aluminum bar stock .


Wouldn't it be easier to clothesline one of those skateboarders and
steal the wheels before they regain consciousness?

On Monday, June 11, 2018 at 4:28:53 PM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 06/11/2018 01:57 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/11/2018 2:14 PM, Joe wrote:
replying to bobmct, Joe wrote:
How do I get new wheels for my old Atlantic Suitcase

Buy a machine lathe and make them from some aluminum bar stock .

Wouldn't it be easier to clothesline one of those skateboarders and
steal the wheels before they regain consciousness?

A time machine to go back 10 years to join the discussion while the original posters were still alive might help. snicker ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Live Monster

On Monday, June 11, 2018 at 9:00:31 PM UTC-5, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Monday, June 11, 2018 at 4:28:53 PM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 06/11/2018 01:57 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/11/2018 2:14 PM, Joe wrote:
replying to bobmct, Joe wrote:
How do I get new wheels for my old Atlantic Suitcase

Buy a machine lathe and make them from some aluminum bar stock .

Wouldn't it be easier to clothesline one of those skateboarders and
steal the wheels before they regain consciousness?

A time machine to go back 10 years to join the discussion while the original posters were still alive might help. snicker ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Live Monster

GEEZ! Correction, 8 years! Dang those drugs they give me! o_O

[8~{} Uncle Half-Live Monster

On 06/11/2018 08:00 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Monday, June 11, 2018 at 4:28:53 PM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 06/11/2018 01:57 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/11/2018 2:14 PM, Joe wrote:
replying to bobmct, Joe wrote:
How do I get new wheels for my old Atlantic Suitcase

Buy a machine lathe and make them from some aluminum bar stock .

Wouldn't it be easier to clothesline one of those skateboarders and
steal the wheels before they regain consciousness?

A time machine to go back 10 years to join the discussion while the original posters were still alive might help. snicker ^_^

Where is this alternate universe? In another thread someone was thanking
Stormin Mormon for his advice. I know Mormons have some odd ideas about
the afterlife but I don't think dispensing weed whacker advice is part
of it.

On Monday, June 11, 2018 at 9:21:31 PM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 06/11/2018 08:00 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
On Monday, June 11, 2018 at 4:28:53 PM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 06/11/2018 01:57 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/11/2018 2:14 PM, Joe wrote:
replying to bobmct, Joe wrote:
How do I get new wheels for my old Atlantic Suitcase

Buy a machine lathe and make them from some aluminum bar stock .

Wouldn't it be easier to clothesline one of those skateboarders and
steal the wheels before they regain consciousness?

A time machine to go back 10 years to join the discussion while the original posters were still alive might help. snicker ^_^

Where is this alternate universe? In another thread someone was thanking
Stormin Mormon for his advice. I know Mormons have some odd ideas about
the afterlife but I don't think dispensing weed whacker advice is part
of it.

Actually, I screwed up, it's only 8 years time slip. The Internet is forever. Me and my brother have pals who own machine shops and if we had an expensive or irreplaceable assembly we thought we would fornicate up if we tried to remove a broken screw or bolt from, we'd take it to a machine shop. When you're in the service business it's a bit different if you're repairing something for a customer than yourself. You can't make excuses if you turn something into scrap because of your own ineptitude. In the service business, experience is measured by the amount and value of the equipment you've trashed. I have a lot of experience. A famous man said,"Experience is a fools best teacher." If you keep breaking things, you're no longer a fool, you a fraking moron. That's my saying. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Fraking Monster

On 06/11/2018 09:02 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
Actually, I screwed up, it's only 8 years time slip. The Internet is forever. Me and my brother have pals who own machine shops and if we had an expensive or irreplaceable assembly we thought we would fornicate up if we tried to remove a broken screw or bolt from, we'd take it to a machine shop.

Sometimes EDM is the only option and not many people have an EDM machine
in the garage.

fwiw, if the situation isn't completely hopeless Grabits work like a charm.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-pro

On 6/11/2018 10:10 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/11/2018 09:02 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
Actually, I screwed up, it's only 8 years time slip. The Internet is
forever. Me and my brother have pals who own machine shops and if we
had an expensive or irreplaceable assembly we thought we would
fornicate up if we tried to remove a broken screw or bolt from, we'd
take it to a machine shop.

Sometimes EDM is the only option and not many people have an EDM
machine in the garage.

fwiw, if the situation isn't completely hopeless Grabits work like a
charm.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-pro


Â* Looks like a new take on EZ-outs ... What usually works for me is
welding a nut to the end of the broken off bolt , or using a left hand
twist drill . Depends on the situation . EDM and plasma cutting are 2
technologies I wish I had in my machine shop , but it's just a hobby and
I can't justify the cost .

--
Snag
Yes , I'm old
and crochety .
Get off my lawn !

On Monday, June 11, 2018 at 10:09:38 PM UTC-5, rbowman wrote:
On 06/11/2018 09:02 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
Actually, I screwed up, it's only 8 years time slip. The Internet is forever. Me and my brother have pals who own machine shops and if we had an expensive or irreplaceable assembly we thought we would fornicate up if we tried to remove a broken screw or bolt from, we'd take it to a machine shop.

Sometimes EDM is the only option and not many people have an EDM machine
in the garage.

fwiw, if the situation isn't completely hopeless Grabits work like a charm.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-pro

I think I may actually have or had something like that in my tool collection! Of course, loaning out tools over the years doesn't mean they're still in my collection. It's been several years since I was able to run service calls and work with my hands. I've had two orthopedic surgeons write me off. They told me they wouldn't attempt knee and shoulder joint replacement surgery on me. So I'm stuck on wheels and continue to be frustrated. o_O

[8~{} Uncle Frustrated Monster

On 06/11/2018 09:27 PM, Terry Coombs wrote:
On 6/11/2018 10:10 PM, rbowman wrote:
On 06/11/2018 09:02 PM, Uncle Monster wrote:
Actually, I screwed up, it's only 8 years time slip. The Internet is
forever. Me and my brother have pals who own machine shops and if we
had an expensive or irreplaceable assembly we thought we would
fornicate up if we tried to remove a broken screw or bolt from, we'd
take it to a machine shop.

Sometimes EDM is the only option and not many people have an EDM
machine in the garage.

fwiw, if the situation isn't completely hopeless Grabits work like a
charm.

https://www.thegrabitstore.com/collections/grabit-pro


Looks like a new take on EZ-outs ... What usually works for me is
welding a nut to the end of the broken off bolt , or using a left hand
twist drill . Depends on the situation . EDM and plasma cutting are 2
technologies I wish I had in my machine shop , but it's just a hobby and
I can't justify the cost .


I got a set specifically for the two Torx screws that hold the little
inspection plate on the Harley's primary case. Considering that I do use
the right Torx bits and generous amounts of Never-Seez and don't over
tighten them I don't know why they wouldn't come out.

The heads were still intact but stripped. One end of the GrabIt cuts a
conical pocket in the head, the other locks into it. I thought I was
really screwed when a 1/2" drill motor momentarily stalled out but then
the screws broke loose. No mangled threads so it's still a mystery. The
replacements are Allens not Torx. Never cared for Torx particularly when
Harley used #25 on the inspection plate and #27 on the derby just to
screw people up.