I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.

I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!

DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.

I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

The carb needs to be cleaned. There is probably something plugging a jet.

On May 17, 12:05*pm, "Bob F" wrote:
DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.

I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

The carb needs to be cleaned. There is probably something plugging a jet.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for that.

Last night I drained the tank, poured in a few ounces of Mechanic In A
Bottle and pumped it into the fuel system per the instructions.

It's supposed to sit over night, so maybe I'll get lucky and it'll
clean itself - I don't have high expectations, but we'll see what
happens.

If it doesn't help, I'll start pulling things apart.

Thanks again.

On May 17, 11:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.

I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Many years ago, I had a car that started acting like that. It turned
out that the carb was loose, allowing air to leak in and dilute the
vapors, hence only running with a closed choke. Check to see if the
carb is loose or a vacuum tube is disconnected or broken.

Paul

That's pretty close to what I was going to write. I've seen engines,
typically Briggs or Tecumseh, the gasket between the carb and the
engine is missing, or badly leaking. New gasket, and some Permatex
#2b, non hardening, and the engine runs much better.

The other time I saw that was on a farm tractor, the farmer had taken
off the oil bath air filter, and it would only run part choke.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Pavel314" wrote in message
...

Many years ago, I had a car that started acting like that. It turned
out that the carb was loose, allowing air to leak in and dilute the
vapors, hence only running with a closed choke. Check to see if the
carb is loose or a vacuum tube is disconnected or broken.

Paul

On May 17, 10:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.

I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Did you run he carb dry in the fall, and push the primer after it died
and restarted it to be sure the fuel bowl has no gas, I bet not, and
your carb is varnished up and needs a clean-rebuild.

On May 18, 6:55*am, ransley wrote:
On May 17, 10:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.

I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Did you run he carb dry in the fall, and push the primer after it died
and restarted it to be sure the fuel bowl has no gas, I bet not, and
your carb is varnished up and needs a clean-rebuild.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The carbs on those small 2 strokes almost never have a bowl. But it
is probably a clogged jet. If they are not very old you can often get
away with reusing the gaskets. I would not expect your "mechanic in a
bottle" to fix it but I suppose it's possible. Imho most of those
things are snake oil, if gas won't disolve the problem, other stuff
usually won't either. I suspect you'll need to disasemble the carb
and blow out the passages and jets with some carb cleaner using that
little red piece of pipe that comes with the carb cleaner.
Occasionaly I run into ones where dried gas/junk has reduced the size
of the main jet and I have had to clean it out with a small piece of
wire.

On May 18, 6:55*am, ransley wrote:
On May 17, 10:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.

I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Did you run he carb dry in the fall, and push the primer after it died
and restarted it to be sure the fuel bowl has no gas, I bet not, and
your carb is varnished up and needs a clean-rebuild.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You must not have read my OP very carefully.

The problem started way before storing the unit for the winter. As I
said, after a few hours of use last fall, it would no longer start.

I did pour out the gas and pull the cord a few times, but since it
wouldn't start, there was no way to know if the carb ran itself dry or
not.

In fact, as per my OP, it actually starts now - which is an
improvement over last fall - but it won't run without the choke full
on.

I'm sure it's a carb problem in any event.

On May 18, 8:10*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 18, 6:55*am, ransley wrote:





On May 17, 10:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.

I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Did you run he carb dry in the fall, and push the primer after it died
and restarted it to be sure the fuel bowl has no gas, I bet not, and
your carb is varnished up and needs a clean-rebuild.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The carbs on those small 2 strokes almost never have a bowl. *But it
is probably a clogged jet. *If they are not very old you can often get
away with reusing the gaskets. *I would not expect your "mechanic in a
bottle" to fix it but I suppose it's possible. *Imho most of those
things are snake oil, if gas won't disolve the problem, other stuff
usually won't either. *I suspect you'll need to disasemble the carb
and blow out the passages and jets with some carb cleaner using that
little red piece of pipe that comes with the carb cleaner.
Occasionaly I run into ones where dried gas/junk has reduced the size
of the main jet and I have had to clean it out with a small piece of
wire.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the detailed response.

"The carbs on those small 2 strokes almost never have a bowl"

I pull the carb off last night and you are right, there is no bowl.

"I would not expect your "mechanic in a bottle" to fix it..."

It didn't. There was a slight improvement - I can actually start it
with the choke open now but it only runs for a second or two unless I
close the choke right away.

"I suspect you'll need to disasemble the carb and blow out the
passages and jets"

To disasemble it, do I remove the small plate at the bottom - where
one would usually find the bowl?

After that, I'll be able to blow out the jets, right?

Should I have a new gasket available?

"Occasionaly I run into ones where dried gas/junk has reduced the
size of the main jet"

Identifying the main jet will be pretty obvious, right?

Thanks again.

On May 18, 7:10*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 18, 6:55*am, ransley wrote:





On May 17, 10:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.

I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Did you run he carb dry in the fall, and push the primer after it died
and restarted it to be sure the fuel bowl has no gas, I bet not, and
your carb is varnished up and needs a clean-rebuild.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The carbs on those small 2 strokes almost never have a bowl. *But it
is probably a clogged jet. *If they are not very old you can often get
away with reusing the gaskets. *I would not expect your "mechanic in a
bottle" to fix it but I suppose it's possible. *Imho most of those
things are snake oil, if gas won't disolve the problem, other stuff
usually won't either. *I suspect you'll need to disasemble the carb
and blow out the passages and jets with some carb cleaner using that
little red piece of pipe that comes with the carb cleaner.
Occasionaly I run into ones where dried gas/junk has reduced the size
of the main jet and I have had to clean it out with a small piece of
wire.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

My Sthil and Echos do, and leaving gas in any carb overwinter will
ruin all of them.

On May 18, 9:12*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On May 18, 6:55*am, ransley wrote:





On May 17, 10:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.

I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Did you run he carb dry in the fall, and push the primer after it died
and restarted it to be sure the fuel bowl has no gas, I bet not, and
your carb is varnished up and needs a clean-rebuild.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

You must not have read my OP very carefully.

The problem started way before storing the unit for the winter. As I
said, after a few hours of use last fall, it would no longer start.

I did pour out the gas and pull the cord a few times, but since it
wouldn't start, there was no way to know if the carb ran itself dry or
not.

In fact, as per my OP, it actually starts now - which is an
improvement over last fall - but it won't run without the choke full
on.

I'm sure it's a carb problem in any event.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Crudded up carb issues usualy develop over time, so just because it
ran before doesnt mean it was fine.

On May 18, 10:20*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On May 18, 8:10*am, jamesgangnc wrote:





On May 18, 6:55*am, ransley wrote:

On May 17, 10:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

On May 18, 11:26*am, ransley wrote:
On May 18, 7:10*am, jamesgangnc wrote:





On May 18, 6:55*am, ransley wrote:

On May 17, 10:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

On May 18, 12:40*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 18, 10:20*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On May 18, 8:10*am, jamesgangnc wrote:

On May 18, 6:55*am, ransley wrote:

On May 17, 10:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.

I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Did you run he carb dry in the fall, and push the primer after it died
and restarted it to be sure the fuel bowl has no gas, I bet not, and
your carb is varnished up and needs a clean-rebuild.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The carbs on those small 2 strokes almost never have a bowl. *But it
is probably a clogged jet. *If they are not very old you can often get
away with reusing the gaskets. *I would not expect your "mechanic in a
bottle" to fix it but I suppose it's possible. *Imho most of those
things are snake oil, if gas won't disolve the problem, other stuff
usually won't either. *I suspect you'll need to disasemble the carb
and blow out the passages and jets with some carb cleaner using that
little red piece of pipe that comes with the carb cleaner.
Occasionaly I run into ones where dried gas/junk has reduced the size
of the main jet and I have had to clean it out with a small piece of
wire.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the detailed response.

"The carbs on those small 2 strokes almost never have a bowl"

I pull the carb off last night and you are right, there is no bowl.

"I would not expect your "mechanic in a bottle" to fix it..."

It didn't. There was a slight improvement - I can actually start it
with the choke open now but it only runs for a second or two unless I
close the choke right away.

"I suspect you'll need to disasemble the carb and blow out the
passages and jets"

To disasemble it, do I remove the small plate at the bottom - where
one would usually find the bowl?

After that, I'll be able to blow out the jets, right?

Should I have a new gasket available?

"Occasionaly I run into ones where dried gas/junk has reduced the
size of the main jet"

Identifying the main jet will be pretty obvious, right?

Thanks again.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I suspect the plate you are talking about covers the small diaphram
pump. *These small carbs do not have the traditional float bowl
because they need to operate in a variety of positions. *They are
called membrane carbs. *You might be able to blow out the jets by
removing that plate. *Under it you will find a diaphram and some
flapper valves as well. *Crud anywhere in there could be a problem.
I'm guessing you are trying to avoid removing the carb? *I have been
successful at removing these carbs and taking them apart without
damaging the gaskets so I can reuse them. *You need to be careful
though and sometimes you just can't. *The carb to the head gasket is
simple and you can cut another one of those from gasket material if
you have to. *They are really pretty simple but ingenious devices.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"I'm guessing you are trying to avoid removing the carb? "

No, I actually removed the carb last night to see if I could remove
the bowl and clean the innards.

When I didn't see the bowl as expected, I just sprayed some carb
cleaner into the "back end" (the hole that was up against the head)
and put it back on.

It didn't change the symptoms at all.

"The carb to the head gasket is simple..."

I don't recall even seeing a gasket. There was a thin metal plate
between the carb and the head that I had to realign to get the bolts
through, but I don't recall a gasket. Maybe I just wasn't thinking
about it and missed it.

Anyway, I'll take it off again, remove the bottom plate and clean that
area also.

"You might be able to blow out the jets by removing that plate."

And if I can't? How else would I clean the jets?

Thanks again.

On May 18, 1:33*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On May 18, 12:40*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:





On May 18, 10:20*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On May 18, 8:10*am, jamesgangnc wrote:

On May 18, 6:55*am, ransley wrote:

On May 17, 10:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.

I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Did you run he carb dry in the fall, and push the primer after it died
and restarted it to be sure the fuel bowl has no gas, I bet not, and
your carb is varnished up and needs a clean-rebuild.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The carbs on those small 2 strokes almost never have a bowl. *But it
is probably a clogged jet. *If they are not very old you can often get
away with reusing the gaskets. *I would not expect your "mechanic in a
bottle" to fix it but I suppose it's possible. *Imho most of those
things are snake oil, if gas won't disolve the problem, other stuff
usually won't either. *I suspect you'll need to disasemble the carb
and blow out the passages and jets with some carb cleaner using that
little red piece of pipe that comes with the carb cleaner.
Occasionaly I run into ones where dried gas/junk has reduced the size
of the main jet and I have had to clean it out with a small piece of
wire.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the detailed response.

"The carbs on those small 2 strokes almost never have a bowl"

I pull the carb off last night and you are right, there is no bowl.

"I would not expect your "mechanic in a bottle" to fix it..."

It didn't. There was a slight improvement - I can actually start it
with the choke open now but it only runs for a second or two unless I
close the choke right away.

"I suspect you'll need to disasemble the carb and blow out the
passages and jets"

To disasemble it, do I remove the small plate at the bottom - where
one would usually find the bowl?

After that, I'll be able to blow out the jets, right?

Should I have a new gasket available?

"Occasionaly I run into ones where dried gas/junk has reduced the
size of the main jet"

Identifying the main jet will be pretty obvious, right?

Thanks again.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I suspect the plate you are talking about covers the small diaphram
pump. *These small carbs do not have the traditional float bowl
because they need to operate in a variety of positions. *They are
called membrane carbs. *You might be able to blow out the jets by
removing that plate. *Under it you will find a diaphram and some
flapper valves as well. *Crud anywhere in there could be a problem.
I'm guessing you are trying to avoid removing the carb? *I have been
successful at removing these carbs and taking them apart without
damaging the gaskets so I can reuse them. *You need to be careful
though and sometimes you just can't. *The carb to the head gasket is
simple and you can cut another one of those from gasket material if
you have to. *They are really pretty simple but ingenious devices.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"I'm guessing you are trying to avoid removing the carb? "

No, I actually removed the carb last night to see if I could remove
the bowl and clean the innards.

When I didn't see the bowl as expected, I just sprayed some carb
cleaner into the "back end" (the hole that was up against the head)
and put it back on.

It didn't change the symptoms at all.

"The carb to the head gasket is simple..."

I don't recall even seeing a gasket. There was a thin metal plate
between the carb and the head that I had to realign to get the bolts
through, but I don't recall a gasket. Maybe I just wasn't thinking
about it and missed it.

Anyway, I'll take it off again, remove the bottom plate and clean that
area also.

"You might be able to blow out the jets by removing that plate."

And if I can't? How else would I clean the jets?

Thanks again.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Might be an o-ring. Seems like most of the ones I have worked on had
some way of sealing the mating surfaces between the carb and the
head. I'd suggest taking apart the diaphram pump and checking there.
There may be some adjustment screws as well. Take those out. Then
look down the throat and see if you can spray down the main jet from
in the carb throat. There might be some other orifices in the throat
for low speed/idle fuel supply, might as well try spraying down them
too.

On May 18, 2:34*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 18, 1:33*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On May 18, 12:40*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:

On May 18, 10:20*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

On May 18, 8:10*am, jamesgangnc wrote:

On May 18, 6:55*am, ransley wrote:

On May 17, 10:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:

I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.

I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Did you run he carb dry in the fall, and push the primer after it died
and restarted it to be sure the fuel bowl has no gas, I bet not, and
your carb is varnished up and needs a clean-rebuild.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The carbs on those small 2 strokes almost never have a bowl. *But it
is probably a clogged jet. *If they are not very old you can often get
away with reusing the gaskets. *I would not expect your "mechanic in a
bottle" to fix it but I suppose it's possible. *Imho most of those
things are snake oil, if gas won't disolve the problem, other stuff
usually won't either. *I suspect you'll need to disasemble the carb
and blow out the passages and jets with some carb cleaner using that
little red piece of pipe that comes with the carb cleaner.
Occasionaly I run into ones where dried gas/junk has reduced the size
of the main jet and I have had to clean it out with a small piece of
wire.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Thanks for the detailed response.

"The carbs on those small 2 strokes almost never have a bowl"

I pull the carb off last night and you are right, there is no bowl.

"I would not expect your "mechanic in a bottle" to fix it..."

It didn't. There was a slight improvement - I can actually start it
with the choke open now but it only runs for a second or two unless I
close the choke right away.

"I suspect you'll need to disasemble the carb and blow out the
passages and jets"

To disasemble it, do I remove the small plate at the bottom - where
one would usually find the bowl?

After that, I'll be able to blow out the jets, right?

Should I have a new gasket available?

"Occasionaly I run into ones where dried gas/junk has reduced the
size of the main jet"

Identifying the main jet will be pretty obvious, right?

Thanks again.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

I suspect the plate you are talking about covers the small diaphram
pump. *These small carbs do not have the traditional float bowl
because they need to operate in a variety of positions. *They are
called membrane carbs. *You might be able to blow out the jets by
removing that plate. *Under it you will find a diaphram and some
flapper valves as well. *Crud anywhere in there could be a problem.
I'm guessing you are trying to avoid removing the carb? *I have been
successful at removing these carbs and taking them apart without
damaging the gaskets so I can reuse them. *You need to be careful
though and sometimes you just can't. *The carb to the head gasket is
simple and you can cut another one of those from gasket material if
you have to. *They are really pretty simple but ingenious devices.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"I'm guessing you are trying to avoid removing the carb? "

No, I actually removed the carb last night to see if I could remove
the bowl and clean the innards.

When I didn't see the bowl as expected, I just sprayed some carb
cleaner into the "back end" (the hole that was up against the head)
and put it back on.

It didn't change the symptoms at all.

"The carb to the head gasket is simple..."

I don't recall even seeing a gasket. There was a thin metal plate
between the carb and the head that I had to realign to get the bolts
through, but I don't recall a gasket. Maybe I just wasn't thinking
about it and missed it.

Anyway, I'll take it off again, remove the bottom plate and clean that
area also.

"You might be able to blow out the jets by removing that plate."

And if I can't? How else would I clean the jets?

Thanks again.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Might be an o-ring. *Seems like most of the ones I have worked on had
some way of sealing the mating surfaces between the carb and the
head. *I'd suggest taking apart the diaphram pump and checking there.
There may be some adjustment screws as well. *Take those out. Then
look down the throat and see if you can spray down the main jet from
in the carb throat. *There might be some other orifices in the throat
for low speed/idle fuel supply, might as well try spraying down them
too.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"There may be some adjustment screws as well. Take those out."

I was hoping you weren't going to say that!

There are 2 "spring-wrapped" screws on the side of the carb.

Taking them out is easy. Putting them back in is easy.

Properly adjusting 2 screws that I have no idea do what may not be so
easy!

The unit ran fine last year, so I'd really like to get it cleaned
without having to "adjust" anything - assuming that a clogged jet or
some other orifice is the problem.

Anyway, I'll play around a bit, but it might not until the weekend. My
evenings are booked until then.

Thanks for sticking with me on this one and I'll be back with either
good news or more questions!

wrote in message
...

Carefully and gently count how many turns as you screw them until they
hit bottom. Do not crank them hard!

When you re-install, screw them in gently until they hit bottom and
then back them out however many turns you had to turn them before to
bottom them out.

I'd wager that one, or both, screws probably need adjustment. Keep track
of the turns, for each, but when reinstalling try 1.5 turns on each. Is there
an H and an L next to the screws?

Look up on Youtube on how to adjust the idle on a two-stroke.

On Tue, 18 May 2010 10:33:13 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
"The carb to the head gasket is simple..."

I don't recall even seeing a gasket. There was a thin metal plate
between the carb and the head that I had to realign to get the bolts
through, but I don't recall a gasket. Maybe I just wasn't thinking about
it and missed it.

Just as a gotcha, make sure the plate (or any kind of gasket) is the
right way round when you reassemble; I've seen a few engines where the
plate/gasket can go in one of two positions, but one way round it'll
block off the port coming from the engine that the carb needs to run the
fuel pump (I got one thing in where previous owner had taken things apart
to solve some problem and reassembled with the gasket the wrong way
round).

If it's a little Walbro carb, I'm almost certain I have tuning
instructions scribbled down on a bit of paper up in the 'shop. Debris
gets in those things, rubber diaphragms go weak, needles wear, the seal
between the carb and engine goes bad so they don't pump gas properly...
I've developed a healthy dislike for small IC engines :-)

cheers

Jules

On May 19, 9:00*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Tue, 18 May 2010 10:33:13 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
"The carb to the head gasket is simple..."

I don't recall even seeing a gasket. There was a thin metal plate
between the carb and the head that I had to realign to get the bolts
through, but I don't recall a gasket. Maybe I just wasn't thinking about
it and missed it.

Just as a gotcha, make sure the plate (or any kind of gasket) is the
right way round when you reassemble; I've seen a few engines where the
plate/gasket can go in one of two positions, but one way round it'll
block off the port coming from the engine that the carb needs to run the
fuel pump (I got one thing in where previous owner had taken things apart
to solve some problem and reassembled with the gasket the wrong way
round).

If it's a little Walbro carb, I'm almost certain I have tuning
instructions scribbled down on a bit of paper up in the 'shop. Debris
gets in those things, rubber diaphragms go weak, needles wear, the seal
between the carb and engine goes bad so they don't pump gas properly...
I've developed a healthy dislike for small IC engines :-)

cheers

Jules

Funny, I'm the opposite. I love them. For a homeowner use the piston/
cylinder will last longer than most people. The 2 stroke design has
only a handful of moving parts. I have a chain saw that is over 30
years old and still runs just as good as it did day 1. I have others
that are over 20. They have tremendous power for their size and
weight. The little carbs are all just about the same and a breeze to
remove and clean. Keeping the gas clean, adding some stabilizer, and
they usually will go years and years without any problems.

On May 19, 9:09*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 19, 9:00*am, Jules Richardson





wrote:
On Tue, 18 May 2010 10:33:13 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
"The carb to the head gasket is simple..."

I don't recall even seeing a gasket. There was a thin metal plate
between the carb and the head that I had to realign to get the bolts
through, but I don't recall a gasket. Maybe I just wasn't thinking about
it and missed it.

Just as a gotcha, make sure the plate (or any kind of gasket) is the
right way round when you reassemble; I've seen a few engines where the
plate/gasket can go in one of two positions, but one way round it'll
block off the port coming from the engine that the carb needs to run the
fuel pump (I got one thing in where previous owner had taken things apart
to solve some problem and reassembled with the gasket the wrong way
round).

If it's a little Walbro carb, I'm almost certain I have tuning
instructions scribbled down on a bit of paper up in the 'shop. Debris
gets in those things, rubber diaphragms go weak, needles wear, the seal
between the carb and engine goes bad so they don't pump gas properly...
I've developed a healthy dislike for small IC engines :-)

cheers

Jules

Funny, I'm the opposite. *I love them. *For a homeowner use the piston/
cylinder will last longer than most people. *The 2 stroke design has
only a handful of moving parts. *I have a chain saw that is over 30
years old and still runs just as good as it did day 1. *I have others
that are over 20. *They have tremendous power for their size and
weight. *The little carbs are all just about the same and a breeze to
remove and clean. *Keeping the gas clean, adding some stabilizer, and
they usually will go years and years without any problems.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"Keeping the gas clean, adding some stabilizer, and they usually
will go years and years without any problems"

"Usually" is the operative word here.

I bought the blower off Craigslist at the beginning of last fall and
it ran fine for the entire season until it just wouldn't start after a
few hours of use.

I was more than 3/4 through the 2nd (3rd?) 1-gallon container of gas
for the season so I don't think bad gas was the problem, unless an
actual piece of debris got into the carb.

What I still find strange is that it wouldn't start at all a few
months ago but now it starts but only runs with the choke closed. Yes,
I changed the plug and sprayed the carb with cleaner, but I guess I'll
never know why it wouldn't start last year since that's no longer the
problem I'm chasing.

On May 19, 9:28*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
On May 19, 9:09*am, jamesgangnc wrote:





On May 19, 9:00*am, Jules Richardson

wrote:
On Tue, 18 May 2010 10:33:13 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
"The carb to the head gasket is simple..."

I don't recall even seeing a gasket. There was a thin metal plate
between the carb and the head that I had to realign to get the bolts
through, but I don't recall a gasket. Maybe I just wasn't thinking about
it and missed it.

Just as a gotcha, make sure the plate (or any kind of gasket) is the
right way round when you reassemble; I've seen a few engines where the
plate/gasket can go in one of two positions, but one way round it'll
block off the port coming from the engine that the carb needs to run the
fuel pump (I got one thing in where previous owner had taken things apart
to solve some problem and reassembled with the gasket the wrong way
round).

If it's a little Walbro carb, I'm almost certain I have tuning
instructions scribbled down on a bit of paper up in the 'shop. Debris
gets in those things, rubber diaphragms go weak, needles wear, the seal
between the carb and engine goes bad so they don't pump gas properly....
I've developed a healthy dislike for small IC engines :-)

cheers

Jules

Funny, I'm the opposite. *I love them. *For a homeowner use the piston/
cylinder will last longer than most people. *The 2 stroke design has
only a handful of moving parts. *I have a chain saw that is over 30
years old and still runs just as good as it did day 1. *I have others
that are over 20. *They have tremendous power for their size and
weight. *The little carbs are all just about the same and a breeze to
remove and clean. *Keeping the gas clean, adding some stabilizer, and
they usually will go years and years without any problems.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"Keeping the gas clean, adding some stabilizer, and they usually
will go years and years without any problems"

"Usually" is the operative word here.

I bought the blower off Craigslist at the beginning of last fall and
it ran fine for the entire season until it just wouldn't start after a
few hours of use.

I was more than 3/4 through the 2nd (3rd?) 1-gallon container of gas
for the season so I don't think bad gas was the problem, unless an
actual piece of debris got into the carb.

What I still find strange is that it wouldn't start at all a few
months ago but now it starts but only runs with the choke closed. Yes,
I changed the plug and sprayed the carb with cleaner, but I guess I'll
never know why it wouldn't start last year since that's no longer the
problem I'm chasing.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Spaying carb cleaner in or around a still assembled carb is pretty
much a waste of time unless the only problem is sticking linkage. And
my 30 year old chain saw is on it's 2nd plug. Plug's don't go "bad"
all that easily. Plugs do get dirty if you use too much oil but a few
swipes with a wire brush is usually all that is needed. If the
electrode is not visibly worn then the plug can be cleaned and
reused. But I won't argue that these motors are not for everyone.

You have a carb problem. Debris or water has gotten into it.
Something is clogged or stuck.

On May 17, 11:45�am, DerbyDad03 wrote:
I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.

The History:

My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.

I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.

I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.

It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.

The Current Problem:

Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.

I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.

The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.

I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.

I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.

Any ideas would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Your basic problem is the mixture of fuel to air ratio. There are many
things that cause this condition. To fix the problem you must do all
of the following:

Make sure all screws are tight that hold the carb, crank, and any
other screw that may allow air into the cylinder.

Make sure the gas tank vent is working properly.

Replace the fuel lines and make sure the fuel filter is attached. They
become brittle, they are cheap. Hint: when replacing the fuel lines,
cut at an angle. This will allow it to pass thru the holes much
easier. Buy the correct size.

Replace the plug. I know you said it was new, but trust me on this.
Plugs can become useless if too much gas gets on them, therefore not
allowing the full electric charge to produce the spark required. Also,
even new plugs can be bad.

After doing ALL the above, you can try to start it. If you have the
same problem, you must dis-assemble the carb and blow out all the
passages. There are only a few parts. Take pictures at each step if
you don't feel confident. Reassemble. Take plug out and check for
spark to make sure you didn't "gas foul" the one you just put in.

That should do it.

Hank

On Wed, 19 May 2010 07:47:46 -0700, jamesgangnc wrote:
Plug's don't go "bad" all that easily.

Yeah, I agree there (well, apart from the stray apostrophe

But I won't argue that these motors are not for everyone.

The main issue I think is that it doesn't take much for them to go from
working to dead - bigger IC engines tend to degrade gradually, but the
smaller ones can work one day and be utterly dead the next.

You have a carb problem. Debris or water has gotten into it. Something
is clogged or stuck.

I agree that's the most likely. It still sounds odd that there's no
gasket between carb and engine.

Oh, one thing I heard recently was that some Ryobi engines have just a
plastic crankcase cover, and the screws that hold it down work loose -
it's the crankcase pressure which drives the carb's fuel pump, so once
the crankcase seal goes bad the pump in the carb stops operating
properly. Not necessarily relevant in this case, but it's something to
keep in mind when working on the small Ryobi stuff.

cheers

Jules

On Wed, 19 May 2010 08:55:39 -0700, Hustlin' Hank wrote:
you must dis-assemble the carb and blow out all the passages.
There are only a few parts. Take pictures at each step if you don't feel
confident.

Yes, pictures are useful... on the small carbs I've seen, some of the
parts can fit in more than one location/orientation, so it can be useful
to take pictures (or, if you don't like getting your camera dirty, do
what I do and scribble down notes and diagrams on a scrap of paper. And
try not to lose the paper

cheers

Jules

On May 20, 8:44*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Wed, 19 May 2010 07:47:46 -0700, jamesgangnc wrote:
Plug's don't go "bad" all that easily.

Yeah, I agree there (well, apart from the stray apostrophe

But I won't argue that these motors are not for everyone.

The main issue I think is that it doesn't take much for them to go from
working to dead - bigger IC engines tend to degrade gradually, but the
smaller ones can work one day and be utterly dead the next.

You have a carb problem. *Debris or water has gotten into it. Something
is clogged or stuck.

I agree that's the most likely. It still sounds odd that there's no
gasket between carb and engine.

Oh, one thing I heard recently was that some Ryobi engines have just a
plastic crankcase cover, and the screws that hold it down work loose -
it's the crankcase pressure which drives the carb's fuel pump, so once
the crankcase seal goes bad the pump in the carb stops operating
properly. Not necessarily relevant in this case, but it's something to
keep in mind when working on the small Ryobi stuff.

cheers

Jules

I think some of them even have plastic crankcases these days. I heard
once that honda has used carbon fiber pistons in some racing engines.
Composites have come a long way.

Loose bolts just about anywhere are a problem for 2 strokes as they
have sealed crankcases and rely on that to transfer the fuel/oil from
the carb to the crankcase then into the combustion chanber. I had one
that the cylinder to crankcase bolts had loosened. In any case
problems vary and engines can deteriorate or die in one shot. Depends
on the problem. Fuel issues are common in these smaller engines
because people don't use stabilizer or continue to use gas that is too
old even if it had stabilizer in it. And the fuel gets contaminanted
easily because it is poured form container to container or left open
to absorb water.

There's really two schools of thought here. Buy something of moderate
quality and plan on occasionally fixing a minor problem because it's
the last one you will buy for 30 years. Or buy a low end 2 stroke or
an electric one and just throw it away when it develops problems. If
you cant' fix it yourself the second path is probably the recommended
way to go as taking anything to the shop these days will easily result
in a bill that is a sizable fraction of the original price. Unless
you're in the commercial end of the business, plan on using it for
many hours daily, and paying maintenance is factored into your use.
Then you want to buy top of the line quality.

On May 20, 9:26*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 20, 8:44*am, Jules Richardson





wrote:
On Wed, 19 May 2010 07:47:46 -0700, jamesgangnc wrote:
Plug's don't go "bad" all that easily.

Yeah, I agree there (well, apart from the stray apostrophe

But I won't argue that these motors are not for everyone.

The main issue I think is that it doesn't take much for them to go from
working to dead - bigger IC engines tend to degrade gradually, but the
smaller ones can work one day and be utterly dead the next.

You have a carb problem. *Debris or water has gotten into it. Something
is clogged or stuck.

I agree that's the most likely. It still sounds odd that there's no
gasket between carb and engine.

Oh, one thing I heard recently was that some Ryobi engines have just a
plastic crankcase cover, and the screws that hold it down work loose -
it's the crankcase pressure which drives the carb's fuel pump, so once
the crankcase seal goes bad the pump in the carb stops operating
properly. Not necessarily relevant in this case, but it's something to
keep in mind when working on the small Ryobi stuff.

cheers

Jules

I think some of them even have plastic crankcases these days. *I heard
once that honda has used carbon fiber pistons in some racing engines.
Composites have come a long way.

Loose bolts just about anywhere are a problem for 2 strokes as they
have sealed crankcases and rely on that to transfer the fuel/oil from
the carb to the crankcase then into the combustion chanber. *I had one
that the cylinder to crankcase bolts had loosened. *In any case
problems vary and engines can deteriorate or die in one shot. *Depends
on the problem. *Fuel issues are common in these smaller engines
because people don't use stabilizer or continue to use gas that is too
old even if it had stabilizer in it. *And the fuel gets contaminanted
easily because it is poured form container to container or left open
to absorb water.

There's really two schools of thought here. *Buy something of moderate
quality and plan on occasionally fixing a minor problem because it's
the last one you will buy for 30 years. *Or buy a low end 2 stroke or
an electric one and just throw it away when it develops problems. *If
you cant' fix it yourself the second path is probably the recommended
way to go as taking anything to the shop these days will easily result
in a bill that is a sizable fraction of the original price. *Unless
you're in the commercial end of *the business, plan on using it for
many hours daily, and paying maintenance is factored into your use.
Then you want to buy top of the line quality.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"...taking anything to the shop these days will easily result in a
bill that is a sizable fraction of the original price."

Especially when I only paid $55 on Craigslist for the blower!

Either I'm fixing this thing or it's back to Craigslist for another
one.

On May 20, 8:44*am, Jules Richardson
wrote:
On Wed, 19 May 2010 07:47:46 -0700, jamesgangnc wrote:
Plug's don't go "bad" all that easily.

Yeah, I agree there (well, apart from the stray apostrophe

But I won't argue that these motors are not for everyone.

The main issue I think is that it doesn't take much for them to go from
working to dead - bigger IC engines tend to degrade gradually, but the
smaller ones can work one day and be utterly dead the next.

You have a carb problem. *Debris or water has gotten into it. Something
is clogged or stuck.

I agree that's the most likely. It still sounds odd that there's no
gasket between carb and engine.

Oh, one thing I heard recently was that some Ryobi engines have just a
plastic crankcase cover, and the screws that hold it down work loose -
it's the crankcase pressure which drives the carb's fuel pump, so once
the crankcase seal goes bad the pump in the carb stops operating
properly. Not necessarily relevant in this case, but it's something to
keep in mind when working on the small Ryobi stuff.

cheers

Jules

"It still sounds odd that there's no gasket between carb and
engine. "

I just looked at the on-line parts list for the 340BV and there is
indeed a gasket on the backside of the carb.

Then there's a heat shield, then another gasket, then a carb spacer
then another gasket then a baffle assembly then another gasket and
*then* the engine itself.

Jeez!

On May 20, 8:44�am, Jules Richardson
wrote:


Oh, one thing I heard recently was that some Ryobi engines have just a
plastic crankcase cover, and the screws that hold it down work loose -
it's the crankcase pressure which drives the carb's fuel pump, so once
the crankcase seal goes bad the pump in the carb stops operating
properly. Not necessarily relevant in this case, but it's something to
keep in mind when working on the small Ryobi stuff.

cheers

Jules

When the screws that hold the plastic crankcase cover become loose, it
sucks in air when the piston is on the up-stroke. This will result in
a lean mixture and usually too lean to run (same symtoms as a dirty
carb or not getting gas). If you richen the mixture with full choke or
spray starting fluid in it , it may fire.

I mentioned tightening all screws in my last post.

Hank

On May 19, 10:47*am, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 19, 9:28*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On May 19, 9:09*am, jamesgangnc wrote:

On May 19, 9:00*am, Jules Richardson

wrote:
On Tue, 18 May 2010 10:33:13 -0700, DerbyDad03 wrote:
"The carb to the head gasket is simple..."

I don't recall even seeing a gasket. There was a thin metal plate
between the carb and the head that I had to realign to get the bolts
through, but I don't recall a gasket. Maybe I just wasn't thinking about
it and missed it.

Just as a gotcha, make sure the plate (or any kind of gasket) is the
right way round when you reassemble; I've seen a few engines where the
plate/gasket can go in one of two positions, but one way round it'll
block off the port coming from the engine that the carb needs to run the
fuel pump (I got one thing in where previous owner had taken things apart
to solve some problem and reassembled with the gasket the wrong way
round).

If it's a little Walbro carb, I'm almost certain I have tuning
instructions scribbled down on a bit of paper up in the 'shop. Debris
gets in those things, rubber diaphragms go weak, needles wear, the seal
between the carb and engine goes bad so they don't pump gas properly...
I've developed a healthy dislike for small IC engines :-)

cheers

Jules

Funny, I'm the opposite. *I love them. *For a homeowner use the piston/
cylinder will last longer than most people. *The 2 stroke design has
only a handful of moving parts. *I have a chain saw that is over 30
years old and still runs just as good as it did day 1. *I have others
that are over 20. *They have tremendous power for their size and
weight. *The little carbs are all just about the same and a breeze to
remove and clean. *Keeping the gas clean, adding some stabilizer, and
they usually will go years and years without any problems.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

"Keeping the gas clean, adding some stabilizer, and they usually
will go years and years without any problems"

"Usually" is the operative word here.

I bought the blower off Craigslist at the beginning of last fall and
it ran fine for the entire season until it just wouldn't start after a
few hours of use.

I was more than 3/4 through the 2nd (3rd?) 1-gallon container of gas
for the season so I don't think bad gas was the problem, unless an
actual piece of debris got into the carb.

What I still find strange is that it wouldn't start at all a few
months ago but now it starts but only runs with the choke closed. Yes,
I changed the plug and sprayed the carb with cleaner, but I guess I'll
never know why it wouldn't start last year since that's no longer the
problem I'm chasing.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Spaying carb cleaner in or around a still assembled carb is pretty
much a waste of time unless the only problem is sticking linkage. *And
my 30 year old chain saw is on it's 2nd plug. *Plug's don't go "bad"
all that easily. *Plugs do get dirty if you use too much oil but a few
swipes with a wire brush is usually all that is needed. *If the
electrode is not visibly worn then the plug can be cleaned and
reused. *But I won't argue that these motors are not for everyone.

You have a carb problem. *Debris or water has gotten into it.
Something is clogged or stuck.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

An update:

I wanted to blow the maple-copters off of the driveway and onto the
lawn so I could mow them up, so I figured whatever air I could get out
at full choke was better than nothing.

I found that if I feathered the 3 position choke lever I could get a
lot more power by holding it between the "fully closed" and "partial"
detents. If I let it drop into the "partial" detent it would stall -
at least at the beginning.

After about 10 minutes of run time, I found I could actually run it at
the partial setting for a few minutes before it would begin to labor.
If I moved the lever back towards fully closed, it would pick up speed
and I'd go through cycle again.

I wonder if it's slowly cleaning itself out.