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DerbyDad03 DerbyDad03 is offline
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Default Ryobi Blower Only Runs With Choke Closed

On May 18, 2:34*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:
On May 18, 1:33*pm, DerbyDad03 wrote:





On May 18, 12:40*pm, jamesgangnc wrote:


On May 18, 10:20*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:


On May 18, 8:10*am, jamesgangnc wrote:


On May 18, 6:55*am, ransley wrote:


On May 17, 10:45*am, DerbyDad03 wrote:


I need some advice from the small engine gurus in this group.


The History:


My Ryobi 340BV blower ran fine all during the fall. Towards the end of
the season, I had started it multiple times over the course of a
couple of hours, so it was fully warmed up.


I shut it down for a few minutes and it wouldn't start back up. It
turned over, but wouldn't start, no matter where I set the 3 position
choke.


I tried to start it a few times over the next few days, making sure it
was cold and following the cold start procedure. No luck, it wouldn't
start.


It was the end of the season, so I dumped the gas and stuck it in the
shed, where it's sat for the last 4+ months.


The Current Problem:


Yesterday I pulled it out, changed the spark plug, sprayed the
carburetor with cleaner and put in fresh 32:1 gas/oil.


I pumped it up, closed the choke and it started on 3 pulls.


The problem now is that it only runs with the choke fully closed. As
soon as I move the choke lever to Partial or fully Open, it gives up a
deep throaty sound for half a second as it stalls. It's almost like a
kill switch. There's no surging or rough running, it just shuts down.


I let it warm up until it started to labor a bit and then tried to
slowly open the choke. As soon as the choke started to open, it
stalled.


I can start it over and over again with the choke closed, but I
obviously can't run it that way.


Any ideas would be appreciated.


Thanks!


Did you run he carb dry in the fall, and push the primer after it died
and restarted it to be sure the fuel bowl has no gas, I bet not, and
your carb is varnished up and needs a clean-rebuild.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


The carbs on those small 2 strokes almost never have a bowl. *But it
is probably a clogged jet. *If they are not very old you can often get
away with reusing the gaskets. *I would not expect your "mechanic in a
bottle" to fix it but I suppose it's possible. *Imho most of those
things are snake oil, if gas won't disolve the problem, other stuff
usually won't either. *I suspect you'll need to disasemble the carb
and blow out the passages and jets with some carb cleaner using that
little red piece of pipe that comes with the carb cleaner.
Occasionaly I run into ones where dried gas/junk has reduced the size
of the main jet and I have had to clean it out with a small piece of
wire.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Thanks for the detailed response.


"The carbs on those small 2 strokes almost never have a bowl"


I pull the carb off last night and you are right, there is no bowl.


"I would not expect your "mechanic in a bottle" to fix it..."


It didn't. There was a slight improvement - I can actually start it
with the choke open now but it only runs for a second or two unless I
close the choke right away.


"I suspect you'll need to disasemble the carb and blow out the
passages and jets"


To disasemble it, do I remove the small plate at the bottom - where
one would usually find the bowl?


After that, I'll be able to blow out the jets, right?


Should I have a new gasket available?


"Occasionaly I run into ones where dried gas/junk has reduced the
size of the main jet"


Identifying the main jet will be pretty obvious, right?


Thanks again.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


I suspect the plate you are talking about covers the small diaphram
pump. *These small carbs do not have the traditional float bowl
because they need to operate in a variety of positions. *They are
called membrane carbs. *You might be able to blow out the jets by
removing that plate. *Under it you will find a diaphram and some
flapper valves as well. *Crud anywhere in there could be a problem.
I'm guessing you are trying to avoid removing the carb? *I have been
successful at removing these carbs and taking them apart without
damaging the gaskets so I can reuse them. *You need to be careful
though and sometimes you just can't. *The carb to the head gasket is
simple and you can cut another one of those from gasket material if
you have to. *They are really pretty simple but ingenious devices.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


"I'm guessing you are trying to avoid removing the carb? "


No, I actually removed the carb last night to see if I could remove
the bowl and clean the innards.


When I didn't see the bowl as expected, I just sprayed some carb
cleaner into the "back end" (the hole that was up against the head)
and put it back on.


It didn't change the symptoms at all.


"The carb to the head gasket is simple..."


I don't recall even seeing a gasket. There was a thin metal plate
between the carb and the head that I had to realign to get the bolts
through, but I don't recall a gasket. Maybe I just wasn't thinking
about it and missed it.


Anyway, I'll take it off again, remove the bottom plate and clean that
area also.


"You might be able to blow out the jets by removing that plate."


And if I can't? How else would I clean the jets?


Thanks again.- Hide quoted text -


- Show quoted text -


Might be an o-ring. *Seems like most of the ones I have worked on had
some way of sealing the mating surfaces between the carb and the
head. *I'd suggest taking apart the diaphram pump and checking there.
There may be some adjustment screws as well. *Take those out. Then
look down the throat and see if you can spray down the main jet from
in the carb throat. *There might be some other orifices in the throat
for low speed/idle fuel supply, might as well try spraying down them
too.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -


"There may be some adjustment screws as well. Take those out."

I was hoping you weren't going to say that!

There are 2 "spring-wrapped" screws on the side of the carb.

Taking them out is easy. Putting them back in is easy.

Properly adjusting 2 screws that I have no idea do what may not be so
easy!

The unit ran fine last year, so I'd really like to get it cleaned
without having to "adjust" anything - assuming that a clogged jet or
some other orifice is the problem.

Anyway, I'll play around a bit, but it might not until the weekend. My
evenings are booked until then.

Thanks for sticking with me on this one and I'll be back with either
good news or more questions!