Have a 18 hp Kholer engine (model # CV492)on a 42" Craftsman lawn tractor
(7 years old). Problem is starts OK and runs for 20 minutes or so and then
starts to stall and lose power. Does restart but repeats problem. This
was the first mow of the season. Had run all gas out for winter. Used
fresh gas to start. Know I need a new battery as I can put a charger on
the current (orginal) battery and get mower started but should have
anything to do with the stalling? Changed oil and oil filter and air
filter. Have not changed gas filter or spark plug. Please advise, Thanks.
-------------------------------------




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On Apr 2, 11:50*am, (hillclimber)
wrote:
Have a 18 hp Kholer engine (model # CV492)on a 42" Craftsman lawn tractor
(7 years old). Problem is starts OK and runs for 20 minutes or so and then
starts to stall and lose power. *Does restart but repeats problem. *This
was the first mow of the season. *Had run all gas out for winter. Used
fresh gas to start. *Know I need a new battery as I can put a charger on
the current (orginal) battery and get mower started but should have
anything to do with the stalling? *Changed oil and oil filter and air
filter. *Have not changed gas filter or spark plug. *Please advise, Thanks.
-------------------------------------

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A failing coil or ignition module can act up when motor gets hot, see
if there is spark just after it dies.

On 02 Apr 2009 16:50:53 GMT, (hillclimber)
wrote:


Have a 18 hp Kholer engine (model # CV492)on a 42" Craftsman lawn tractor
(7 years old). Problem is starts OK and runs for 20 minutes or so and then
starts to stall and lose power. Does restart but repeats problem. This
was the first mow of the season. Had run all gas out for winter. Used
fresh gas to start. Know I need a new battery as I can put a charger on
the current (orginal) battery and get mower started but should have
anything to do with the stalling? Changed oil and oil filter and air
filter. Have not changed gas filter or spark plug. Please advise, Thanks.
-------------------------------------
I had a similar problem with an old (1969) Wheel Horse. There was dirt in the
gas line that would settle and then rise after the engine had run for while. It
would clog the float valve in the carburetor. Drain the tank and clean the
line.
__________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA

On Apr 2, 2:29*pm, Bill Waller wrote:
On 02 Apr 2009 16:50:53 GMT, (hillclimber)
wrote:



Have a 18 hp Kholer engine (model # CV492)on a 42" Craftsman lawn tractor
(7 years old). Problem is starts OK and runs for 20 minutes or so and then
starts to stall and lose power. *Does restart but repeats problem. *This
was the first mow of the season. *Had run all gas out for winter. Used
fresh gas to start. *Know I need a new battery as I can put a charger on
the current (orginal) battery and get mower started but should have
anything to do with the stalling? *Changed oil and oil filter and air
filter. *Have not changed gas filter or spark plug. *Please advise, Thanks.
-------------------------------------

I had a similar problem with an old (1969) Wheel Horse. There was dirt in the
gas line that would settle and then rise after the engine had run for while. It
would clog the float valve in the carburetor. Drain the tank and clean the
line.
__________________
Bill Waller
New Eagle, PA



Ditto - same problem & same fix. There was a screen filter at the end
of the fuel pickup tube in the fuel tank. Varnish sediment would be
picked up to the screen stopping the fuel flow. When the engine died
the sediment would settle back into the tank. Then recycle.

KC

On Apr 2, 12:50*pm, (hillclimber)
wrote:
Have a 18 hp Kholer engine (model # CV492)on a 42" Craftsman lawn tractor
(7 years old). Problem is starts OK and runs for 20 minutes or so and then
starts to stall and lose power. *Does restart but repeats problem. *This
was the first mow of the season. *Had run all gas out for winter. Used
fresh gas to start. *Know I need a new battery as I can put a charger on
the current (orginal) battery and get mower started but should have
anything to do with the stalling? *Changed oil and oil filter and air
filter. *Have not changed gas filter or spark plug. *Please advise, Thanks.
-------------------------------------

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Better replace that battery, your probably cooking you charging
circuit, with it trying
to charge your bad battery,false economy. Don't know the charging
circuit, but maybe its stealing
the current to make ignition system operate. It probably the fuel
system.

wrote:

Better replace that battery, your probably cooking you charging
circuit, with it trying
to charge your bad battery,false economy. Don't know the charging
circuit, but maybe its stealing
the current to make ignition system operate. It probably the fuel
system.


Visit Harbor Freight and pick up their version of the battery tender for
about $5 when it's on sale. I've been using one on my John Deere lawn
tractor since I bought it new four years ago. I'm still on the original
battery and it starts easily every time.

It will not overcharge the battery like a common charger. I just hook
it up to external terminals I rigged up to make it less of a PITA. It
stays hooked up any time it's not actually being used to cut grass.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/cta...emnumber=42292



Mortimer Schnerd, RN
mschnerd at carolina.rr.com

On Apr 2, 12:50�pm, (hillclimber)
wrote:
Have a 18 hp Kholer engine (model # CV492)on a 42" Craftsman lawn tractor
(7 years old). Problem is starts OK and runs for 20 minutes or so and then
starts to stall and lose power. �Does restart but repeats problem.. �This
was the first mow of the season. �Had run all gas out for winter. Used
fresh gas to start. �Know I need a new battery as I can put a charger on
the current (orginal) battery and get mower started but should have
anything to do with the stalling? �Changed oil and oil filter and air
filter. �Have not changed gas filter or spark plug. �Please advise, Thanks.


I doubt it has anything to do with fuel delivery. I would look at the
safety switches first. They get dirty, ground out, and they also wear
out.

To check them: There should be one wire coming from the motors coil,
then it splits into different areas that go to the different switches.
If you disconnect the main wire, that will disable all the safety
switches. Then run it to see if the problem still exists. If it does,
then it is NOT the safety switches.

Diagnosing the problem will take a systematic approach. Rule-out each
system until you find the system (fuel, electrical, compression and
etc.) that is faulty.

Hank

That does make sense. I was thinking more of smaller engines
I've serviced. Bad quality motor oil will cause problems.
Also, an ignition coil going bad. But, the crud in the fuel
tank makes sense.

Wonder if you can take the tank off. Leave about half full.
Plug the fuel outlet wtih a finger, shake the fuel around to
suspend any particles. Pour the fuel into a coffee filter
and strainer over a can of some kind. Strain all the
particles out. Put the now-clean fuel back in.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"KC" wrote in message
...

Ditto - same problem & same fix. There was a screen filter
at the end
of the fuel pickup tube in the fuel tank. Varnish sediment
would be
picked up to the screen stopping the fuel flow. When the
engine died
the sediment would settle back into the tank. Then recycle.

KC

On Apr 3, 5:31*am, "Hustlin' Hank" wrote:
On Apr 2, 12:50 pm, (hillclimber)
wrote:

Have a 18 hp Kholer engine (model # CV492)on a 42" Craftsman lawn tractor
(7 years old). Problem is starts OK and runs for 20 minutes or so and then
starts to stall and lose power. Does restart but repeats problem. This
was the first mow of the season. Had run all gas out for winter. Used
fresh gas to start. Know I need a new battery as I can put a charger on
the current (orginal) battery and get mower started but should have
anything to do with the stalling? Changed oil and oil filter and air
filter. Have not changed gas filter or spark plug. Please advise, Thanks.

I doubt it has anything to do with fuel delivery. I would look at the
safety switches first. They get dirty, ground out, and they also wear
out.

To check them: There should be one wire coming from the motors coil,
then it splits into different areas that go to the different switches.
If you disconnect the main wire, that will disable all the safety
switches. Then run it to see if the problem still exists. If it does,
then it is NOT the safety switches.

Diagnosing the problem will take a systematic approach. Rule-out each
system until you find the system (fuel, electrical, compression and
etc.) that is faulty.

Hank

The question is why after 20 minutes, safteys should be almost
immediate, fuel should be an issue within maybe 5 minutes as thats
about the max for a float bowl to hold and the choke is not needed,
unless its not venting the tank so as to not feed fuel. My Lawnboy
did this one year, first it would not restart hot, following year it
died after getting hot, the following year it would not start at all,
it was the ignition module, Once I bought a used boat motor, no wonder
the guy selling it only gave me a 5 minute test ride, after 15 minutes
one cilinder would stop firing, only an expensive new ignition module
fixed it. Coils going bad can also fail when fully heated up. I
think a first test is a spark strength and color check just after it
dies, and when cold. My lawnboy still sparked, but this test is faulty
since under compression and with fuel in the cilinder it takes much
more voltage than in open air. Another indicator ive noticed on
several small motors, and my car, with failing ignition components is
ok idle, and rough running under load.

On Apr 3, 11:05�am, ransley wrote:
On Apr 3, 5:31�am, "Hustlin' Hank" wrote:



I doubt it has anything to do with fuel delivery. I would look at the
safety switches first. They get dirty, ground out, and they also wear
out.

To check them: There should be one wire coming from the motors coil,
then it splits into different areas that go to the different switches.
If you disconnect the main wire, that will disable all the safety
switches. Then run it to see if the problem still exists. If it does,
then it is NOT the safety switches.

Diagnosing the problem will take a systematic approach. Rule-out each
system until you find the system (fuel, electrical, compression and
etc.) that is faulty.

Hank

The question is why after 20 minutes, safteys should be almost
immediate, fuel should be an issue within maybe 5 minutes as thats
about the max for a float bowl to hold and the choke is not needed,
unless its not venting the tank so as to not feed fuel. �My Lawnboy
did this one year, first it would not restart hot, following year it
died after getting hot, the following year it would not start at all,
it was the ignition module, Once I bought a used boat motor, no wonder
the guy selling it only gave me a 5 minute test ride, after 15 minutes
one cilinder would stop firing, only an expensive new ignition module
fixed it. �Coils going bad can also fail when fully heated up. �I
think a first test is a spark strength and color check just after it
dies, and when cold. My lawnboy still sparked, but this test is faulty
since under compression and with fuel in the cilinder it takes much
more voltage than in open air. Another indicator ive noticed on
several small motors, and my car, with failing ignition components is
ok idle, and rough running under load.-

Well, it could be any of the systems. Disconnecting the ground wire is
eliminating one potential problem within 1 minute. By isolating
different systems, you can rule-out those systems. Ground wires come
loose, get worn, switches wear out and etc.

No matter what, it will take time, effort and a systematic approach to
diagnose his problem. The Gas cap vent is a good start too. Quick and
easy.

Hank

Hustlin' Hank wrote:
....
Well, it could be any of the systems. ...

No matter what, it will take time, effort and a systematic approach to
diagnose his problem. The Gas cap vent is a good start too. Quick and
easy.

Of course it _could_, but one might as well start w/ those that have
some semblance of a resemblance to being at all likely to cause the
observed symptoms. The likely safety interlock system failure modes
don't match at all well...

Gas tank venting is, otoh, worth checking in the short/initial list...

--

hillclimber had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...or-366656-.htm
:


Thanks for all the advise and help. I have installed a new battery (from
Tractor Supply Company - good prices - better that Sears!), fuel filter,
spark plug (old one looked pretty bad), cleaned out the fuel tank, checked
the fuel tank cap for air flow. It starts good and runs good. Mowed for
a hour or so with only a small problem. I have some fairly good slopes in
my yard (I live in mid-Tennessee) and when going up a slope of 5 to 10
degrees the engine will sometimes try to stall. I can turn sideways on
the hill and it is OK. This used to only occur when the gas tank was
getting very low but now occurs with a full tank. I know the gas is
gravity fed but it does not look like the tank is below the carb. on the
engine - Any comments? Thanks.


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Is the engine equipped with an oil sensor? It is designed to kill
the engine when it is not happy. Kohlers are sensitive to
starving a crank bearing if run on hills long enough to oil starve
the bearing.

--
______________________________
Keep the whole world singing . . . .
DanG (remove the sevens)




"hillclimber" wrote in message
m...
hillclimber had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...or-366656-.htm
:


Thanks for all the advise and help. I have installed a new
battery (from
Tractor Supply Company - good prices - better that Sears!), fuel
filter,
spark plug (old one looked pretty bad), cleaned out the fuel
tank, checked
the fuel tank cap for air flow. It starts good and runs good.
Mowed for
a hour or so with only a small problem. I have some fairly good
slopes in
my yard (I live in mid-Tennessee) and when going up a slope of 5
to 10
degrees the engine will sometimes try to stall. I can turn
sideways on
the hill and it is OK. This used to only occur when the gas
tank was
getting very low but now occurs with a full tank. I know the
gas is
gravity fed but it does not look like the tank is below the
carb. on the
engine - Any comments? Thanks.


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hillclimber had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...or-367192-.htm
:
Do not think so. In looking at the engine parts pictures & parts list
(oil pan/lubrication section) there is not a sensor shown. The engine
does have a oil pump as it is a pressurized oil system. I did double
check the oil level and it was right at or a shade above full. Any
comments? Thanks.

-------------------------------------
DanG wrote:


Is the engine equipped with an oil sensor? It is designed to kill
the engine when it is not happy. Kohlers are sensitive to
starving a crank bearing if run on hills long enough to oil starve
the bearing.





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On Apr 10, 4:43�pm, (hillclimber)
wrote:

�:
Do not think so. �In looking at the engine parts pictures & parts list
(oil pan/lubrication section) there is not a sensor shown. �The engine
does have a oil pump as it is a pressurized oil system. �I did double
check the oil level and it was right at or a shade above full. �Any
comments? Thanks.


You didn't say whether you checked any of the wiring as I suggested
earlier. Did you?

Hank

cjsinko had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...or-366656-.htm
:
I have the same mower and had the same problem. tried every possible
solution. Seemed like an electrical problem. Gave up had sears come out
and the problem was water in the fuel bowl. Does it stall under power,
i.e., when the blades are engaged and you are mowing? As it stalls try
disengaging the blades does it continue to run? If so I bet it is water.

-------------------------------------
hillclimber wrote:



Have a 18 hp Kholer engine (model # CV492)on a 42" Craftsman lawn
tractor
(7 years old). Problem is starts OK and runs for 20 minutes or so and
then
starts to stall and lose power. Does restart but repeats problem.
This
was the first mow of the season. Had run all gas out for winter. Used
fresh gas to start. Know I need a new battery as I can put a charger
on
the current (orginal) battery and get mower started but should have
anything to do with the stalling? Changed oil and oil filter and air
filter. Have not changed gas filter or spark plug. Please advise,
Thanks.
-------------------------------------




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hillclimber had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...or-367787-.htm
:


-------------------------------------
Think I found out the problem - looking at the fuel tank and the carb. -
they are almost level and on a hill the tank is lower than the carb.
so.... I am going to try to put some shims (about 1 1/2 inch) under the
fuel tank (there is room) and see if that helps.


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hillclimber had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...or-367787-.htm
:


-------------------------------------
Think I found out the problem - looking at the fuel tank and the carb. -
they are almost level and on a hill the tank is lower than the carb.
so.... I am going to try to put some shims (about 1 1/2 inch) under the
fuel tank (there is room) and see if that helps.


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hillclimber had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...or-367787-.htm
:


-------------------------------------
Think I found out the problem - looking at the fuel tank and the carb. -
they are almost level and on a hill the tank is lower than the carb.
so.... I am going to try to put some shims (about 1 1/2 inch) under the
fuel tank (there is room) and see if that helps.


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On Apr 2, 12:50*pm, (hillclimber)
wrote:
Have a 18 hp Kholer engine (model # CV492)on a 42" Craftsman lawn tractor
(7 years old). Problem is starts OK and runs for 20 minutes or so and then
starts to stall and lose power.

check the gas cap, there should be a small vent hole, if it is clogged
the engine will stall when the fuel use creates enough suction in the
tank..

Mark

In article ,
(hillclimber) wrote:

hillclimber had written this in response to
http://www.eatyourmother.com/mainten...blems-craftsma
n-lawn-tractor-367787-.htm
:


-------------------------------------
Think I found out the problem - looking at the fuel tank and the carb. -
they are almost level and on a hill the tank is lower than the carb.
so.... I am going to try to put some shims (about 1 1/2 inch) under the
fuel tank (there is room) and see if that helps.

All right then, you ****ing spammer. Thanks for posting this 3 times, to
get your stucco site plug in 6 more times. I hope you run over your foot
with your ****ing lawnmower.



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hillclimber had written this in response to
http://www.thestuccocompany.com/main...or-367787-.htm
:


-------------------------------------
Think have a solution to the sputtering when climbing a hill - cut and put
some wooden shims under the fuel tank and raised it up about 1 1/2 inches
(as high as I could get it and still fit under the hood) and that seems to
help - finished mowing and no sputter even when the fuel was low. May not
be real "pretty" but if it works that is OK with me.


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replying to hillclimber, Steve S wrote:
jadunn13_at_yahoo_dot_com wrote:

Have a 18 hp Kholer engine (model # CV492)on a 42" Craftsman lawn tractor
(7 years old). Problem is starts OK and runs for 20 minutes or so and then
starts to stall and lose power. Does restart but repeats problem. This
was the first mow of the season. Had run all gas out for winter. Used
fresh gas to start. Know I need a new battery as I can put a charger on
the current (orginal) battery and get mower started but should have
anything to do with the stalling? Changed oil and oil filter and air
filter. Have not changed gas filter or spark plug. Please advise, Thanks.
-------------------------------------


I had a similar problem with a 42" Craftsman lawn tractor with a 17 Hp
Briggs and Stratton engine.
The problem was a bad solenoid valve on the bottom of the carburator.
If your mower has a Nikki carburator with a solenoid valve on the bottom,
try replacing it.

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...or-366656-.htm
using HomeOwnersHub's Web, RSS and Social Media Interface
to home and garden related groups

replying to hillclimber, ed wrote:
the problem is the celluloid , when it gets hot it clo,ses, stoping the gas
flow---------when cool it works-----, replace it-----

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...or-366656-.htm

On Fri, 15 Apr 2016 19:44:01 +0000, ed
wrote:

ed wrote:
the problem is the celluloid , when it gets hot it clo,ses, stoping the gas
flow---------when cool it works-----, replace it-----

Oh really? Tell the class more, please.
--
"Your brain is so scary sometimes... it really is."-Jedediah Bila...

replying to hillclimber, Sandor1 wrote:
Take a look at the bottom of the carburetor for something sticking out with a
wire attached. There is an electronic valve on the bottom which is supposed
to close to prevent gas from getting into the cylinders when the mower is not
running. That valve goes bad and after being open for 20 minutes or so,
closes. My mower had very similar symptoms, even and would frequently die
when on the side of a slope. By changing out that valve, the problems went
away.

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...or-366656-.htm

replying to ed, ed wrote:
to check the celluloid-- turn off engine when not working-- turn start key
half way ,you should hear a click, that's the celluloid opening to let gas in,
if no click the engine will not start--if you hear the click the gas line is
open and the engine will start--this will happen when the celluloid is cool
again---

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...or-366656-.htm

"ed" replying to ed, ed wrote:
to check the celluloid-- turn off engine when not
working-- turn start key
half way ,you should hear a click, that's the
celluloid opening to let gas in,
if no click the engine will not start--if you hear
the click the gas line is
open and the engine will start--this will happen when
the celluloid is cool
again---

Solenoid, not celluloid... sheesh...

On Sun, 17 Apr 2016 17:18:38 -0400, "Phil Kangas"
wrote:


"ed" replying to ed, ed wrote:
to check the celluloid-- turn off engine when not
working-- turn start key
half way ,you should hear a click, that's the
celluloid opening to let gas in,
if no click the engine will not start--if you hear
the click the gas line is
open and the engine will start--this will happen when
the celluloid is cool
again---

Solenoid, not celluloid... sheesh...

I was trying to get him to correct himself but it went over his
head... :-\