We have purchased this Washer and need to know what connections are
needed to the outlet.
I have a dryer 230 outlet near and it is connected with a Red, White,
Black and Ground connection. I plan to pony this outlet connection on
the dryer connections. I have been told that a 12/2 cable with ground
is all that is required. I connection to the Red terminal and 1
connection to the Black terminal and ground connection to the
ground. Any help would be appreciated.

hamish wrote:
We have purchased this Washer and need to know what connections are
needed to the outlet.
I have a dryer 230 outlet near and it is connected with a Red, White,
Black and Ground connection. I plan to pony this outlet connection on
the dryer connections. I have been told that a 12/2 cable with ground
is all that is required. I connection to the Red terminal and 1
connection to the Black terminal and ground connection to the
ground. Any help would be appreciated.

Look at the outlet on the wall and go buy a matching dryer cord from a
hardware store. There should be a wiring diagram on the back of the
dryer and/or instruction sheet with the dryer.

Note do not use 12/2 that is too small and does not have the red wire.
The dryer cord will be the correct size (10 gauge).
Kevin

On Mar 22, 10:02*am, Kevin Ricks wrote:
hamish wrote:
We have purchased this Washer and need to know what connections are
needed to the outlet.
I have a dryer 230 outlet near *and it is connected with a Red, White,
Black and Ground connection. *I plan to pony this outlet connection on
the dryer connections. *I have been told that a 12/2 cable with ground
is all that is required. *I connection to the Red terminal and 1
connection to the Black terminal and ground connection to the
ground. * Any help would be appreciated.

Look at the outlet on the wall and go buy a matching dryer cord from a
hardware store. There should be a wiring diagram on the back of the
dryer and/or instruction sheet with the dryer.

Note do not use 12/2 that is too small and does not have the red wire.
The dryer cord will be the correct size (10 gauge).
Kevin


He's trying to ADD a 230V outlet for a WASHER. Running the black,
red and ground to the new outlet is correct, assuming the washer only
needs 230V, not 115V. However 12 gauge wire is NOT OK. The wire
size must be compatible with the breaker. Assuming the existing wire
is of the correct gauge, then the run from the existing outlet to the
new one should be the same gauge. If you use 12 gauge and someone
later were to plug in a larger load, fire could result.

On Mar 22, 11:23*am, wrote:
On Mar 22, 10:02*am, Kevin Ricks wrote:





hamish wrote:
We have purchased this Washer and need to know what connections are
needed to the outlet.
I have a dryer 230 outlet near *and it is connected with a Red, White,
Black and Ground connection. *I plan to pony this outlet connection on
the dryer connections. *I have been told that a 12/2 cable with ground
is all that is required. *I connection to the Red terminal and 1
connection to the Black terminal and ground connection to the
ground. * Any help would be appreciated.

Look at the outlet on the wall and go buy a matching dryer cord from a
hardware store. There should be a wiring diagram on the back of the
dryer and/or instruction sheet with the dryer.

Note do not use 12/2 that is too small and does not have the red wire.
The dryer cord will be the correct size (10 gauge).
Kevin

He's trying to ADD a 230V outlet for a WASHER. * Running the black,
red and ground to the new outlet is correct, assuming the washer only
needs 230V, not 115V. * *However 12 gauge wire is NOT OK. * The wire
size must be compatible with the breaker. *Assuming the existing wire
is of the correct gauge, then the run from the existing outlet to the
new one should be the same gauge. * If you use 12 gauge and someone
later were to plug in a larger load, fire could result.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Agree the wire size must match the breaker.
Assuming this is in North America with the typical 115/0/115 (230
volts between the two 115 volt legs)
and that the Bosch washer does indeed need 230 volts (as do European
models) the red and black connection sounds correct and the white
neutral shouldn't be required.
Proper grounding should be emphasized.
However the OP does not appear to know enough and there may indeed be
some doubt about the Bosch washer voltage specification, for doing the
job correctly and safely.
Would recommend a completely separate circuit to it's own circuit
breaker. Not something 'tapped on' to an existing circuit!
Also just "being told that 12-2 is needed" is not good necessarily
good info.
One has visions of some 12-2 tacked onto an existing dryer outlet
(correctly or incorrectly?).
Then later with the dryer running the washer jams or something and the
breaker starts tripping .................
Then again it may get hooked up and work that way for years, not
conforming with electrical safety code and 15 years fom now there is
an unfortunate 'incident' and an insurance company investigation finds
'Non conforming wiring' and declines to compensate.
Get proper advice!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

On Mar 22, 12:33*pm, bud-- wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 22, 10:02 am, Kevin Ricks wrote:
hamish wrote:
We have purchased this Washer and need to know what connections are
needed to the outlet.
I have a dryer 230 outlet near *and it is connected with a Red, White,
Black and Ground connection. *I plan to pony this outlet connection on
the dryer connections. *I have been told that a 12/2 cable with ground
is all that is required. *I connection to the Red terminal and 1
connection to the Black terminal and ground connection to the
ground. * Any help would be appreciated.
Look at the outlet on the wall and go buy a matching dryer cord from a
hardware store. There should be a wiring diagram on the back of the
dryer and/or instruction sheet with the dryer.

Note do not use 12/2 that is too small and does not have the red wire.
The dryer cord will be the correct size (10 gauge).
Kevin

He's trying to ADD a 230V outlet for a WASHER. * Running the black,
red and ground to the new outlet is correct, assuming the washer only
needs 230V, not 115V. * *However 12 gauge wire is NOT OK. * The wire
size must be compatible with the breaker. *Assuming the existing wire
is of the correct gauge, then the run from the existing outlet to the
new one should be the same gauge. * If you use 12 gauge and someone
later were to plug in a larger load, fire could result.

If using the same circuit (which should be fine) the breaker needs to be
appropriate for the washer.

Why is that? You can plug a 15Watt nightlight into a 20 amp outlet.
And if he lowers the breaker to the min for the washer, the dryer is
gonna trip it. He does need to be sure the existing breaker and wire
can handle the loads of both the dryer and the washer.



That probably means changing it to 20A
(still 2-pole 220V). Check the washer installation instructions.

I suggest changing the dryer outlet to one that matches the washer.

But sounds like the washer is 230v, with two hots, one ground.
Suppose the dryier is 4 wire, with 2 hots,neutral and ground? Why
change the dryer outlet at all?




--
bud--- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

wrote:
On Mar 22, 10:02 am, Kevin Ricks wrote:
hamish wrote:
We have purchased this Washer and need to know what connections are
needed to the outlet.
I have a dryer 230 outlet near and it is connected with a Red, White,
Black and Ground connection. I plan to pony this outlet connection on
the dryer connections. I have been told that a 12/2 cable with ground
is all that is required. I connection to the Red terminal and 1
connection to the Black terminal and ground connection to the
ground. Any help would be appreciated.
Look at the outlet on the wall and go buy a matching dryer cord from a
hardware store. There should be a wiring diagram on the back of the
dryer and/or instruction sheet with the dryer.

Note do not use 12/2 that is too small and does not have the red wire.
The dryer cord will be the correct size (10 gauge).
Kevin


He's trying to ADD a 230V outlet for a WASHER. Running the black,
red and ground to the new outlet is correct, assuming the washer only
needs 230V, not 115V. However 12 gauge wire is NOT OK. The wire
size must be compatible with the breaker. Assuming the existing wire
is of the correct gauge, then the run from the existing outlet to the
new one should be the same gauge. If you use 12 gauge and someone
later were to plug in a larger load, fire could result.

If using the same circuit (which should be fine) the breaker needs to be
appropriate for the washer. That probably means changing it to 20A
(still 2-pole 220V). Check the washer installation instructions.

I suggest changing the dryer outlet to one that matches the washer.

--
bud--

On Mar 22, 1:39*pm, bud-- wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 22, 12:33 pm, bud-- wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 22, 10:02 am, Kevin Ricks wrote:
hamish wrote:
We have purchased this Washer and need to know what connections are
needed to the outlet.
I have a dryer 230 outlet near *and it is connected with a Red, White,
Black and Ground connection. *I plan to pony this outlet connection on
the dryer connections. *I have been told that a 12/2 cable with ground
is all that is required. *I connection to the Red terminal and 1
connection to the Black terminal and ground connection to the
ground. * Any help would be appreciated.

Look at the outlet on the wall and go buy a matching dryer cord from a
hardware store. There should be a wiring diagram on the back of the
dryer and/or instruction sheet with the dryer.
Note do not use 12/2 that is too small and does not have the red wire.
The dryer cord will be the correct size (10 gauge).
Kevin

He's trying to ADD a 230V outlet for a WASHER. * Running the black,
red and ground to the new outlet is correct, assuming the washer only
needs 230V, not 115V. * *However 12 gauge wire is NOT OK. * The wire
size must be compatible with the breaker. *Assuming the existing wire
is of the correct gauge, then the run from the existing outlet to the
new one should be the same gauge. * If you use 12 gauge and someone
later were to plug in a larger load, fire could result.

If using the same circuit (which should be fine) the breaker needs to be
appropriate for the washer.

Why is that? *You can plug a 15Watt *nightlight into a 20 amp outlet.

wrote:
On Mar 22, 12:33 pm, bud-- wrote:
wrote:
On Mar 22, 10:02 am, Kevin Ricks wrote:
hamish wrote:
We have purchased this Washer and need to know what connections are
needed to the outlet.
I have a dryer 230 outlet near and it is connected with a Red, White,
Black and Ground connection. I plan to pony this outlet connection on
the dryer connections. I have been told that a 12/2 cable with ground
is all that is required. I connection to the Red terminal and 1
connection to the Black terminal and ground connection to the
ground. Any help would be appreciated.

Look at the outlet on the wall and go buy a matching dryer cord from a
hardware store. There should be a wiring diagram on the back of the
dryer and/or instruction sheet with the dryer.
Note do not use 12/2 that is too small and does not have the red wire.
The dryer cord will be the correct size (10 gauge).
Kevin

He's trying to ADD a 230V outlet for a WASHER. Running the black,
red and ground to the new outlet is correct, assuming the washer only
needs 230V, not 115V. However 12 gauge wire is NOT OK. The wire
size must be compatible with the breaker. Assuming the existing wire
is of the correct gauge, then the run from the existing outlet to the
new one should be the same gauge. If you use 12 gauge and someone
later were to plug in a larger load, fire could result.

If using the same circuit (which should be fine) the breaker needs to be
appropriate for the washer.

Why is that? You can plug a 15Watt nightlight into a 20 amp outlet.
And if he lowers the breaker to the min for the washer, the dryer is
gonna trip it. He does need to be sure the existing breaker and wire
can handle the loads of both the dryer and the washer.

A nightlight is designed to be connected to a 20A circuit.

The washer is designed to be connected to a circuit of some max
amperage. It should be in the literature supplied by the manufacturer.
The manufacturer might allow the washer to be connected to a 30A
circuit, but I doubt it. A cord that matches the 30A breaker does not
solve the problem if the washer is not designed to operate on 30A
circuit. In addition it is a code violation to have a breaker larger
than the manufacturer's instructions.

The OP said nothing about an electric dryer being used. I assume he is
not using one. If he is, you are right that he can't reduce the breaker.
To state what probably everyone knows, the washer and an electric dryer
can't be used at the same time (on the same 30A circuit).

That probably means changing it to 20A
(still 2-pole 220V). Check the washer installation instructions.

I suggest changing the dryer outlet to one that matches the washer.

But sounds like the washer is 230v, with two hots, one ground.
Suppose the dryier is 4 wire, with 2 hots,neutral and ground? Why
change the dryer outlet at all?

I am assuming there is no dryer. If there is and the washer is not rated
for a 30A circuit there should be overcurrent protection appropriate for
the washer between the dryer circuit and an outlet for the washer.

It is not stated, but I suspect the washer comes with a cord/plug
installed. If it does, changing to a 30A cord may not be real easy.

If you need to change the washer cord or the outlet, replacing the
outlet (and breaker) is more appropriate.

To resolve the questions the OP would have to answer:
manufacturers max circuit rating
is an electric dryer being used
does the washer come with an attached cord

--
bud--

wrote:

He said he wanted to run the washer off the dryer outlet. That would
sure seem to me to imply that he has an electric dryer. Gas dryers
are generally 120V, as are washers. Given that the dryer is 230V, it
sure sounds to me like it's an electric.



He said he has a dryer OUTLET, not that he has an electric dryer. Homes are
often built with both gas and electric provisions for the dryer (the builder
doesn't know which the ultimate homeowner wants).

In my home, I have a gas dryer and an unused 220V outlet right next to it.

On Mar 22, 1:40*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
wrote:

He said he wanted to run the washer off the dryer outlet. *That would
sure seem to me to imply that he has an electric dryer. * Gas dryers
are generally 120V, as are washers. *Given that the dryer is 230V, it
sure sounds to me like it's an electric.

He said he has a dryer OUTLET, not that he has an electric dryer. Homes are
often built with both gas and electric provisions for the dryer (the builder
doesn't know which the ultimate homeowner wants).

In my home, I have a gas dryer and an unused 220V outlet right next to it..

Interesting. Around here (NJ) in every case I've seen, builders give
you one or the other. Which kind of makes sense, as it's extra cost
to them to run both gas and electric for a dryer.

On Mar 22, 2:15*pm, wrote:
On Mar 22, 1:40*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:

wrote:

He said he wanted to run the washer off the dryer outlet. *That would
sure seem to me to imply that he has an electric dryer. * Gas dryers
are generally 120V, as are washers. *Given that the dryer is 230V, it
sure sounds to me like it's an electric.

He said he has a dryer OUTLET, not that he has an electric dryer. Homes are
often built with both gas and electric provisions for the dryer (the builder
doesn't know which the ultimate homeowner wants).

In my home, I have a gas dryer and an unused 220V outlet right next to it.

Interesting. *Around here (NJ) in every case I've seen, builders give
you one or the other. *Which kind of makes sense, as it's extra cost
to them to run both gas and electric for a dryer.

First to clarify the situation, and thanks for all the advise given,
we have a new dryer and washer and have a 230 dryer socket which was
in use with the previous dryer. The new washer is plugged with a
special plug which is 250 volts 15 amps. the washer draws 12 amps at
maximum. In looking into the situation more fully, and removing the
dryer electric socket and box I can add a connection to the socket up
to a new two pole 230 volt fused switch (15 amp) ncr and then feed a
new outlet with the socket for the special plug on the washer. Cable
will be 12/2 with ground. At 12 amps load and overload and short
circuit interruption capacity at 15 amps ncr I think this should
protect the washer, and the dryer. The dryer is protected by 40 amp
breaker. Any comments, thanks for your interest and suggestions

"hamish" wrote in message
...
On Mar 22, 2:15 pm, wrote:
On Mar 22, 1:40 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:

wrote:

He said he wanted to run the washer off the dryer outlet. That would
sure seem to me to imply that he has an electric dryer. Gas dryers
are generally 120V, as are washers. Given that the dryer is 230V, it
sure sounds to me like it's an electric.

He said he has a dryer OUTLET, not that he has an electric dryer. Homes
are
often built with both gas and electric provisions for the dryer (the
builder
doesn't know which the ultimate homeowner wants).

In my home, I have a gas dryer and an unused 220V outlet right next to
it.

Interesting. Around here (NJ) in every case I've seen, builders give
you one or the other. Which kind of makes sense, as it's extra cost
to them to run both gas and electric for a dryer.

First to clarify the situation, and thanks for all the advise given,
we have a new dryer and washer and have a 230 dryer socket which was
in use with the previous dryer. The new washer is plugged with a
special plug which is 250 volts 15 amps. the washer draws 12 amps at
maximum. In looking into the situation more fully, and removing the
dryer electric socket and box I can add a connection to the socket up
to a new two pole 230 volt fused switch (15 amp) ncr and then feed a
new outlet with the socket for the special plug on the washer. Cable
will be 12/2 with ground. At 12 amps load and overload and short
circuit interruption capacity at 15 amps ncr I think this should
protect the washer, and the dryer. The dryer is protected by 40 amp
breaker. Any comments, thanks for your interest and suggestions


*I can't say what is there now, but in many cases the existing 120 volt
laundry receptacle is a dedicated 20 amp circuit. It could easily be
converted to a 220 volt circuit by changing the receptacle and adding a two
pole circuit breaker at the source.

wrote:
On Mar 22, 1:40 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
wrote:

He said he wanted to run the washer off the dryer outlet. That would
sure seem to me to imply that he has an electric dryer. Gas dryers
are generally 120V, as are washers. Given that the dryer is 230V, it
sure sounds to me like it's an electric.

He said he has a dryer OUTLET, not that he has an electric dryer.
Homes are often built with both gas and electric provisions for the
dryer (the builder doesn't know which the ultimate homeowner wants).

In my home, I have a gas dryer and an unused 220V outlet right next
to it.

Interesting. Around here (NJ) in every case I've seen, builders give
you one or the other. Which kind of makes sense, as it's extra cost
to them to run both gas and electric for a dryer.

Heh! It's extra cost for them to provide a roof, too.

The gas is already there - the water heater sits next to the dryer. So,
we're talking about the incremental cost for, oh, thirty feet of wire and an
outlet.

I have the same arrangement for the range. My range is gas, but there's a
220V outlet next to the gas valve. For this, the cost to the builder is
greater since the range is another ten feet from the breaker box.

So, then, in my case, to add electric capability to a gas-powered house, the
builder had to pony up thirty 1968 bucks for 70' of wire, two breakers, and
two outlets. That leaves the cost of the installer's time.

Here in Texas (a RTW state), finding a Mexican whose hand fits a screwdriver
has never been difficult. In New Jersey, having a union electrician install
two outlets may be a significant expense.