Howdy,

I threw the chain on my 6' tractor mounted snow blower
(because the master link cracked...)

In order to replace and adjust the chain, I have to
disassemble part of the blower.

There is a universal joint that is keyed, and its yoke slips
onto the drive shaft. Or, more accurately, it slipped on
when everything was new, and clean.

Getting it off has proven to be pretty tough. Using various
wedging techniques, I managed to get it off for all but
about 1/2" of its length, but I have not had any luck moving
it further than that.

And so, this question:

I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.

Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?

I am clueless, and would appreciate any help on this hassle.

My torch, and I await...

Many thanks,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

Kenneth wrote:
....
Getting it off has proven to be pretty tough. Using various
wedging techniques, I managed to get it off for all but
about 1/2" of its length, but I have not had any luck moving
it further than that.

Are you sure you don't have any side torque?

....
I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.

Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?
....

When it starts showing red, move the torch on around.

Do it as quickly as possible to get as little heat transfer to the shaft
as possible. I usually fill it full of WD4O or another (relatively)
non-volatile lubricant first. Seems to help some as it sizzles but
won't start a big flame.

Have the pulling gear all set before start, of course, so doesn't just
cool back down. Good would be if have an extra hand who can apply the
tension or can arrange where you can do it together--then when it begins
to move you don't need to keep on heating...

--

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 19:06:31 -0600, dpb
wrote:

Hi again,

Please see my comments inline...

Kenneth wrote:
...
Getting it off has proven to be pretty tough. Using various
wedging techniques, I managed to get it off for all but
about 1/2" of its length, but I have not had any luck moving
it further than that.

Are you sure you don't have any side torque?

I can't be positive, but I do not think so. I have moved it
both ways several times and each time it hangs at (roughly)
the same point. I doubt that I would have it twisted at the
same point each time.


...
I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.

Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?
...

When it starts showing red, move the torch on around.

I am astounded that I would want it that hot, but am happy
to give it a shot. Right now, the thing is one very heavy
paperweight.


Do it as quickly as possible to get as little heat transfer to the shaft
as possible. I usually fill it full of WD4O or another (relatively)
non-volatile lubricant first. Seems to help some as it sizzles but
won't start a big flame.

Have the pulling gear all set before start, of course, so doesn't just
cool back down. Good would be if have an extra hand who can apply the
tension or can arrange where you can do it together--then when it begins
to move you don't need to keep on heating...

Thanks for the speedy response, and the great suggestions,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

dpb wrote:


Do it as quickly as possible to get as little heat transfer to the shaft
as possible. I usually fill it full of WD4O or another (relatively)
non-volatile lubricant first.

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant.

WD-40 is NOT anywheres near "non volatile" basically kerosene, it burns
quite well.

s

Steve Barker wrote:
dpb wrote:


Do it as quickly as possible to get as little heat transfer to the
shaft as possible. I usually fill it full of WD4O or another
(relatively) non-volatile lubricant first.

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant.

WD-40 is NOT anywheres near "non volatile" basically kerosene, it burns
quite well.

It flashes w/ the torch and works quite nicely for the purpose...

I never said anything other than it works as a wetting agent and tends
to (it appears from many trials) to help in getting dirt out of ag
splines like the aforementioned PTO shaft subject thread. It's not for
any long term lubrication for the application.

--

On 2/20/2009 5:06 PM dpb spake thus:

Kenneth wrote:

I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.

Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?

When it starts showing red, move the torch on around.

IANAM*, but I'm pretty sure that red-hot is too hot. I think you'd
basically be annealing a hardened steel part, which is probably not what
a guy would want to do.


* I am not a metallurgist.


--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won't use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn't work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn't need me".

- lifted from sci.electronics.repair

David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 2/20/2009 5:06 PM dpb spake thus:

Kenneth wrote:

I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.

Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?

When it starts showing red, move the torch on around.

IANAM*, but I'm pretty sure that red-hot is too hot. I think you'd
basically be annealing a hardened steel part, which is probably not what
a guy would want to do.

I told him when it starts red, move...

If he's got some tension on it, it'll move before then.

The casting won't be particularly hardened; it'll be all right as long
as he doesn't go overboard.

I've done many, most on combine header shafts that "grow on".

--

Why won't the last 1/2 inch come off? Is it getting tighter, or are
you just out of removal leverage.



Metal can change when heated especially heat treated parts.

Do not make the yoke glow at all. Your best bet is to have your
pulling device ready and heat the part as fast as you can so that
the shaft stays cooler. No need to go above 600 degrees.

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 21:17:26 -0500, wrote:

Why won't the last 1/2 inch come off? Is it getting tighter, or are
you just out of removal leverage.



Metal can change when heated especially heat treated parts.

Do not make the yoke glow at all. Your best bet is to have your
pulling device ready and heat the part as fast as you can so that
the shaft stays cooler. No need to go above 600 degrees.

Hi again,

It appears that the last part of the shaft is rusted, and
with that, yes, as I move the yoke off, it does appear to be
getting "tighter." It is not a leverage issue.

You suggest not going higher than 600 degrees, but...

How might I know when I am somewhere near that temperature?

Thanks for any further thoughts,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

On Feb 20, 8:00*pm, Kenneth wrote:
Howdy,

I threw the chain on my 6' tractor mounted snow blower
(because the master link cracked...)

In order to replace and adjust the chain, I have to
disassemble part of the blower.

There is a universal joint that is keyed, and its yoke slips
onto the drive shaft. Or, more accurately, it slipped on
when everything was new, and clean.

Getting it off has proven to be pretty tough. Using various
wedging techniques, I managed to get it off for all but
about 1/2" of its length, but I have not had any luck moving
it further than that.

And so, this question:

I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.

Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?

I am clueless, and would appreciate any help on this hassle.

My torch, and I await...

Many thanks,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

You've tried "wedging techniques". Have you tried a gear puller or
the equivalent?

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 18:11:59 -0800, David Nebenzahl
wrote:

On 2/20/2009 5:06 PM dpb spake thus:

Kenneth wrote:

I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.

Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?

When it starts showing red, move the torch on around.

IANAM*, but I'm pretty sure that red-hot is too hot. I think you'd
basically be annealing a hardened steel part, which is probably not what
a guy would want to do.

I anneal before no man.

I think you're right.


* I am not a metallurgist.

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 20:00:07 -0500, Kenneth
wrote:



I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.

I have never done anything like this, but I think it might not take
much. For one thing, I think the heat might weaken the crud in btween
the two pieces. Can't you try it with moderate heat, and if that
doesn't work, let it all cool and start again in an hour. It
s cold out, right. Should cool quicker than that.

Hit the whole thing with a hammer, to try to break up that crud. Even
rust should break up some, if that's what you think it is.

Hit it also while youre trying to separate it.

Not on the bearings of course. IIUC it's binding beween a shaft and a
sleeve.

Wear safety googles in case the hammer shatters. I hear they do that.

Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?

I am clueless, and would appreciate any help on this hassle.

My torch, and I await...

Many thanks,
--
Kenneth

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 19:57:41 -0800 (PST), Joe
wrote:

Thanks for any further thoughts,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

Have you tried hammering the u-joint back on as far as it will go and
sanding off the rust n the outer section that is binding? That and
some 90 weight lube oil might let it slide off. Gear oils are
exceptionally slippery which is why they are used in auto final
drives and such. Use a brass drift on the u-joint to avoid damaging
it. HTH

Joe

Hi Joe,

That is another good idea, and I would take that approach.

But when I hammer the yoke back on (as I have done a few
times) virtually none of the shaft sticks out in front, so
there is nothing available to sand.

I had tried it for another reason:

I knew that nothing would be available to sand, but I
thought that simply sliding the yoke back on would abrade
the surface of the shaft helping the situation.

Each time I did that, things did get a little better in that
I was able to move the yoke off further.

I guess that I will have to try that a few more times, but
it has been very slow work.

Thanks,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

Kenneth wrote:

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 18:32:45 -0800 (PST), Pat
wrote:


On Feb 20, 8:00 pm, Kenneth wrote:

Howdy,

I threw the chain on my 6' tractor mounted snow blower
(because the master link cracked...)

In order to replace and adjust the chain, I have to
disassemble part of the blower.

There is a universal joint that is keyed, and its yoke slips
onto the drive shaft. Or, more accurately, it slipped on
when everything was new, and clean.

Getting it off has proven to be pretty tough. Using various
wedging techniques, I managed to get it off for all but
about 1/2" of its length, but I have not had any luck moving
it further than that.

And so, this question:

I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.

Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?

I am clueless, and would appreciate any help on this hassle.

My torch, and I await...

Many thanks,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

You've tried "wedging techniques". Have you tried a gear puller or
the equivalent?


Hi again,

It would be impossible to describe the problem verbally, but
there is no way to use a puller. Earlier today, when I was
away from the machine, I thought that it might work. I
headed back to my shop, grabbed a puller, and took it to the
blower. It was immediately clear that it could not work. I
just can't get any pressure to the shaft because the yoke of
the universal is in the way.

Thanks for any further thoughts,


Any way you can rig something onto the business end of a slide hammer to
bop it off with?

You didn't describe the universal joint in detail, but if it's still all
assembled I'd be leary about using heat because of possible damage to
the bearings or other parts of the U-joint.

Jeff

--
Jeffry Wisnia
(W1BSV + Brass Rat '57 EE)
The speed of light is 1.8*10^12 furlongs per fortnight.

On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 11:56:25 -0500, Jeff Wisnia
wrote:

Kenneth wrote:

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 18:32:45 -0800 (PST), Pat
wrote:


On Feb 20, 8:00 pm, Kenneth wrote:

Howdy,

I threw the chain on my 6' tractor mounted snow blower
(because the master link cracked...)

In order to replace and adjust the chain, I have to
disassemble part of the blower.

There is a universal joint that is keyed, and its yoke slips
onto the drive shaft. Or, more accurately, it slipped on
when everything was new, and clean.

Getting it off has proven to be pretty tough. Using various
wedging techniques, I managed to get it off for all but
about 1/2" of its length, but I have not had any luck moving
it further than that.

And so, this question:

I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.

Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?

I am clueless, and would appreciate any help on this hassle.

My torch, and I await...

Many thanks,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

You've tried "wedging techniques". Have you tried a gear puller or
the equivalent?


Hi again,

It would be impossible to describe the problem verbally, but
there is no way to use a puller. Earlier today, when I was
away from the machine, I thought that it might work. I
headed back to my shop, grabbed a puller, and took it to the
blower. It was immediately clear that it could not work. I
just can't get any pressure to the shaft because the yoke of
the universal is in the way.

Thanks for any further thoughts,


Any way you can rig something onto the business end of a slide hammer to
bop it off with?

You didn't describe the universal joint in detail, but if it's still all
assembled I'd be leary about using heat because of possible damage to
the bearings or other parts of the U-joint.

Jeff

Hi Jeff,

As you may have seen elsewhere in the thread, I finally did
get it off.

But you are absolutely right about some caution with heat on
the U-Joint. I had been aware of that, and certainly would
not have heated the thing to the point that some had
suggested.

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 19:31:50 -0800 (PST), JIMMIE
wrote:

On Feb 20, 10:14*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Kenneth wrote:
Howdy,

I threw the chain on my 6' tractor mounted snow blower
(because the master link cracked...)

In order to replace and adjust the chain, I have to
disassemble part of the blower.

There is a universal joint that is keyed, and its yoke slips
onto the drive shaft. Or, more accurately, it slipped on
when everything was new, and clean.

Getting it off has proven to be pretty tough. Using various
wedging techniques, I managed to get it off for all but
about 1/2" of its length, but I have not had any luck moving
it further than that.

And so, this question:

I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.

Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?

I am clueless, and would appreciate any help on this hassle.

My torch, and I await...

I saw a History Channel show on locomotives. In the show, they demonstrated
how they changed the tires on railroad cars (yes, they do have tires). They
heated the sucker up until the tire expanded and it popped right off. Then
they took a new (and hot) tire, pounded it on the wheel, and let the thing
cool.

So, I suppose heating the object - whether a yoke or a railroad rim - is
sufficient.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is my favorite trick, heat it up with a torch not too hot then
apply candle wax to the joint. Hot candle wax is a very good
penetrating lubricant. Works for rusty nuts and bolts and problems
like the OP has.

Jimmie

"Ladies and Gentlemen... We have a winner...!" (with
honorable mention to Tnom)

I did not have any beeswax handy, but did have some candle
wax.

Before describing my experience, I will admit that I thought
it unlikely that either technique would work because it
seemed to me that the melted wax would be far too viscous to
penetrate, and I had no luck with (what I thought were
"proper" penetrants.)

So, this morning, with a candle in hand, I approached the
beast, lit my torch, heated the yoke slightly, and dabbed on
the wax, both in front of, and behind the yoke.

I then intended to hammer the yoke back on, but because of
the odd shape have to be very cautious to locate the blows
properly. The first few stroked were very light taps rather
than the firm strikes I expected to need.

Tap tap tap and the damn thing move... visibly.

Next, I grabbed my prybar and the spacer that allowed it to
work. I expected to have to lean into it as I had, but as I
got it into position just its weight and its wedging action
moved the thing slightly.

I gave a pull, and it moved about 3/4"... Another pull, and
it was in my hand.

I was truly astounded, and most appreciative.

I've been around tools for fifty years, and had not heard of
this wax trick before.

Sincere thanks for all the help,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

On Feb 20, 10:40*pm, Kenneth
wrote:
On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 19:31:50 -0800 (PST), JIMMIE





wrote:
On Feb 20, 10:14*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Kenneth wrote:
Howdy,

I threw the chain on my 6' tractor mounted snow blower
(because the master link cracked...)

In order to replace and adjust the chain, I have to
disassemble part of the blower.

There is a universal joint that is keyed, and its yoke slips
onto the drive shaft. Or, more accurately, it slipped on
when everything was new, and clean.

Getting it off has proven to be pretty tough. Using various
wedging techniques, I managed to get it off for all but
about 1/2" of its length, but I have not had any luck moving
it further than that.

And so, this question:

I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.

Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?

I am clueless, and would appreciate any help on this hassle.

My torch, and I await...

I saw a History Channel show on locomotives. In the show, they demonstrated
how they changed the tires on railroad cars (yes, they do have tires). They
heated the sucker up until the tire expanded and it popped right off. Then
they took a new (and hot) tire, pounded it on the wheel, and let the thing
cool.

So, I suppose heating the object - whether a yoke or a railroad rim - is
sufficient.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is my favorite trick, heat it up with a torch not too hot then
apply candle wax to the joint. Hot candle wax is a very good
penetrating lubricant. Works for rusty nuts and bolts and problems
like the OP has.

Jimmie

Hi again,

Any hints about what "not too hot" might mean? g

Thanks,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

Not hot enough to effect the metal temper. I just got through using
this technique a few minutes ago on some rusty U bolts. The guy I was
working with had been a mechanic in the Navy for 8 years and he was
impressed by how well it worked.

Jimmie

Thanks for the field report. I'd heard of wax, but I've
never tried it.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Kenneth" wrote in
message ...

"Ladies and Gentlemen... We have a winner...!" (with
honorable mention to Tnom)

I did not have any beeswax handy, but did have some candle
wax.

Before describing my experience, I will admit that I thought
it unlikely that either technique would work because it
seemed to me that the melted wax would be far too viscous to
penetrate, and I had no luck with (what I thought were
"proper" penetrants.)

So, this morning, with a candle in hand, I approached the
beast, lit my torch, heated the yoke slightly, and dabbed on
the wax, both in front of, and behind the yoke.

I then intended to hammer the yoke back on, but because of
the odd shape have to be very cautious to locate the blows
properly. The first few stroked were very light taps rather
than the firm strikes I expected to need.

Tap tap tap and the damn thing move... visibly.

Next, I grabbed my prybar and the spacer that allowed it to
work. I expected to have to lean into it as I had, but as I
got it into position just its weight and its wedging action
moved the thing slightly.

I gave a pull, and it moved about 3/4"... Another pull, and
it was in my hand.

I was truly astounded, and most appreciative.

I've been around tools for fifty years, and had not heard of
this wax trick before.

Sincere thanks for all the help,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

Did you wire brush off the visible rust, first?

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"JIMMIE" wrote in message
news:69682d3b-6765-4662-87cd-

Not hot enough to effect the metal temper. I just got
through using
this technique a few minutes ago on some rusty U bolts. The
guy I was
working with had been a mechanic in the Navy for 8 years and
he was
impressed by how well it worked.

Jimmie

On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 19:43:04 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Did you wire brush off the visible rust, first?

Howdy,

No, but there was no way I could, and that was a big part of
the problem:

When the yoke was fully on the shaft, the end of the shaft
was flush with the yoke. There was nothing exposed to brush
(until I got the yoke off completely.)

Once I got it off, I polished the shaft with fine abrasive
paper, coated it with anti-seize, and pushed the yoke by
hand.

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

I'm very pleased that you got your job accomplished, and
that's no yoke. Really, it's no yoking matter. Since
tomorrow is Sunday, I remind everyone the Bible says not to
be unevenly yoked. So, pull evenly on the yoke to get it
apart. I'll try not to wax poetic, though I can be a
slippery devil, and penetrate a bit.

The sandpaper and never seeze will save you a lot of work in
the future.

--
Christopher A. Young
Learn more about Jesus
www.lds.org
..


"Kenneth" wrote in
message ...
On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 19:43:04 -0500, "Stormin Mormon"
wrote:

Did you wire brush off the visible rust, first?

Howdy,

No, but there was no way I could, and that was a big part of
the problem:

When the yoke was fully on the shaft, the end of the shaft
was flush with the yoke. There was nothing exposed to brush
(until I got the yoke off completely.)

Once I got it off, I polished the shaft with fine abrasive
paper, coated it with anti-seize, and pushed the yoke by
hand.

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

In article ,
Steve Barker wrote:

dpb wrote:


Do it as quickly as possible to get as little heat transfer to the shaft
as possible. I usually fill it full of WD4O or another (relatively)
non-volatile lubricant first.

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant.


YES IT IS! WTF is the matter with you people and the venomous anti-WD
****? It's a ****ing lubricant. Read the ****ing INGREDIENTS!!!!!!!!!!!!

WD-40 is NOT anywheres near "non volatile" basically kerosene, it burns
quite well.

s

In article ,
Kenneth wrote:

Howdy,

I threw the chain on my 6' tractor mounted snow blower
(because the master link cracked...)

In order to replace and adjust the chain, I have to
disassemble part of the blower.

There is a universal joint that is keyed, and its yoke slips
onto the drive shaft. Or, more accurately, it slipped on
when everything was new, and clean.

Getting it off has proven to be pretty tough. Using various
wedging techniques, I managed to get it off for all but
about 1/2" of its length, but I have not had any luck moving
it further than that.

And so, this question:

I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.

Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?

I am clueless, and would appreciate any help on this hassle.

My torch, and I await...

Many thanks,

Well, you sure as hell don't want to heat anything RED HOT, unless you
don't mind destroying the temper of the steel. Are you using a gear
puller? If not, you're not using the correct tool for the job.

On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 20:52:50 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote:


Well, you sure as hell don't want to heat anything RED HOT, unless you
don't mind destroying the temper of the steel. Are you using a gear
puller? If not, you're not using the correct tool for the job.

Howdy,

As you may have seen, the problem is solved, but...

While it is certainly true that I may not have been using
the "correct tool for the job," a gear puller was not the
correct tool either.

I tried one.

The problem was that the U-Joint could not be moved out of
the way sufficiently to allow the threaded shaft of the
puller to press on the shaft.

(Also, though I did not heat it even close to red hot, this
was a forging, and had no temper to be destroyed.)

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

On 2/21/2009 8:50 PM Smitty Two spake thus:

In article ,
Steve Barker wrote:

dpb wrote:

Do it as quickly as possible to get as little heat transfer to the shaft
as possible. I usually fill it full of WD4O or another (relatively)
non-volatile lubricant first.

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant.

YES IT IS! WTF is the matter with you people and the venomous anti-WD
****? It's a ****ing lubricant. Read the ****ing INGREDIENTS!!!!!!!!!!!!

WD-40 is NOT anywheres near "non volatile" basically kerosene, it burns
quite well.

I agree. I'm *rilly* tired of hearing this oft-repeated "WD-40 is PURE
****!" mantra, repeated so many times that people accept it as received
wisdom.

It does work as a lubricant, as advertised. I use it on my bike chain
all the time, as well as other places. It may not be the world's best
lubricant for certain situations, but it is definitely a lubricant.


--
Personally, I like Vista, but I probably won't use it. I like it
because it generates considerable business for me in consulting and
upgrades. As long as there is hardware and software out there that
doesn't work, I stay in business. Incidentally, my company motto is
"If this stuff worked, you wouldn't need me".

- lifted from sci.electronics.repair

Kenneth wrote:

"Ladies and Gentlemen... We have a winner...!" (with
honorable mention to Tnom)

I did not have any beeswax handy, but did have some candle
wax.

Before describing my experience, I will admit that I thought
it unlikely that either technique would work because it
seemed to me that the melted wax would be far too viscous to
penetrate, and I had no luck with (what I thought were
"proper" penetrants.)

So, this morning, with a candle in hand, I approached the
beast, lit my torch, heated the yoke slightly, and dabbed on
the wax, both in front of, and behind the yoke.

I then intended to hammer the yoke back on, but because of
the odd shape have to be very cautious to locate the blows
properly. The first few stroked were very light taps rather
than the firm strikes I expected to need.

Tap tap tap and the damn thing move... visibly.

Next, I grabbed my prybar and the spacer that allowed it to
work. I expected to have to lean into it as I had, but as I
got it into position just its weight and its wedging action
moved the thing slightly.

I gave a pull, and it moved about 3/4"... Another pull, and
it was in my hand.

I was truly astounded, and most appreciative.

I've been around tools for fifty years, and had not heard of
this wax trick before.

Sincere thanks for all the help,

And special kudos to you for being willing to try something a little odd.

Many would dismiss the idea as "can't possibly work" or "go away, loon."

On Sun, 22 Feb 2009 08:20:53 -0600, "HeyBub"
wrote:

I've been around tools for fifty years, and had not heard of
this wax trick before.

Sincere thanks for all the help,

And special kudos to you for being willing to try something a little odd.

Many would dismiss the idea as "can't possibly work" or "go away, loon."


Hey, I did dismiss the idea thinking it "can't possibly
work" (but tried it anyway...BG)

All the best,
--
Kenneth

If you email... Please remove the "SPAMLESS."

In article ,
Kenneth wrote:

On Sat, 21 Feb 2009 20:52:50 -0800, Smitty Two
wrote:


Well, you sure as hell don't want to heat anything RED HOT, unless you
don't mind destroying the temper of the steel. Are you using a gear
puller? If not, you're not using the correct tool for the job.

Howdy,

As you may have seen, the problem is solved, but...

While it is certainly true that I may not have been using
the "correct tool for the job," a gear puller was not the
correct tool either.

I tried one.

The problem was that the U-Joint could not be moved out of
the way sufficiently to allow the threaded shaft of the
puller to press on the shaft.

(Also, though I did not heat it even close to red hot, this
was a forging, and had no temper to be destroyed.)

All the best,

Guilty of being hasty with my reply, not having read the entire thread
at the time. Glad it worked out for you.

David Nebenzahl wrote:
On 2/21/2009 8:50 PM Smitty Two spake thus:

In article ,
Steve Barker wrote:

dpb wrote:

Do it as quickly as possible to get as little heat transfer to the
shaft as possible. I usually fill it full of WD4O or another
(relatively) non-volatile lubricant first.

WD-40 is NOT a lubricant.

YES IT IS! WTF is the matter with you people and the venomous anti-WD
****? It's a ****ing lubricant. Read the ****ing INGREDIENTS!!!!!!!!!!!!

WD-40 is NOT anywheres near "non volatile" basically kerosene, it
burns quite well.

I agree. I'm *rilly* tired of hearing this oft-repeated "WD-40 is PURE
****!" mantra, repeated so many times that people accept it as received
wisdom.

It does work as a lubricant, as advertised. I use it on my bike chain
all the time, as well as other places. It may not be the world's best
lubricant for certain situations, but it is definitely a lubricant.


Years ago I worked in a defense plant that produced
safety devices for the arming of artillery shells.
The clockwork mechanisms were lubricated with WD-40.
Perhaps the fact that WD-40 displaces moisture is a
reason they used it.

TDD

JIMMIE wrote:
On Feb 20, 10:14 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Kenneth wrote:
Howdy,
I threw the chain on my 6' tractor mounted snow blower
(because the master link cracked...)
In order to replace and adjust the chain, I have to
disassemble part of the blower.
There is a universal joint that is keyed, and its yoke slips
onto the drive shaft. Or, more accurately, it slipped on
when everything was new, and clean.
Getting it off has proven to be pretty tough. Using various
wedging techniques, I managed to get it off for all but
about 1/2" of its length, but I have not had any luck moving
it further than that.
And so, this question:
I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.
Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?
I am clueless, and would appreciate any help on this hassle.
My torch, and I await...
I saw a History Channel show on locomotives. In the show, they demonstrated
how they changed the tires on railroad cars (yes, they do have tires). They
heated the sucker up until the tire expanded and it popped right off. Then
they took a new (and hot) tire, pounded it on the wheel, and let the thing
cool.

So, I suppose heating the object - whether a yoke or a railroad rim - is
sufficient.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is my favorite trick, heat it up with a torch not too hot then
apply candle wax to the joint. Hot candle wax is a very good
penetrating lubricant. Works for rusty nuts and bolts and problems
like the OP has.

Jimmie

A lot of mechanics use paraffin instead of beeswax.
I've also heated stuck items then quenched them with
oil which is wicked into the threads. Works well with
Liquid Wrench because you don't have to apply a lot
of heat for it to work.

TDD