On Fri, 20 Feb 2009 19:31:50 -0800 (PST), JIMMIE
wrote:

On Feb 20, 10:14*pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Kenneth wrote:
Howdy,

I threw the chain on my 6' tractor mounted snow blower
(because the master link cracked...)

In order to replace and adjust the chain, I have to
disassemble part of the blower.

There is a universal joint that is keyed, and its yoke slips
onto the drive shaft. Or, more accurately, it slipped on
when everything was new, and clean.

Getting it off has proven to be pretty tough. Using various
wedging techniques, I managed to get it off for all but
about 1/2" of its length, but I have not had any luck moving
it further than that.

And so, this question:

I know that by heating the yoke, I should be able to get
some expansion, and that should make removing it a bit
easier, but I have no idea how hot I want it to be to have
benefit, but without damaging the thing.

Also, whatever (approximate) temperature I was to shoot for,
how would I know when I was there?

I am clueless, and would appreciate any help on this hassle.

My torch, and I await...

I saw a History Channel show on locomotives. In the show, they demonstrated
how they changed the tires on railroad cars (yes, they do have tires). They
heated the sucker up until the tire expanded and it popped right off. Then
they took a new (and hot) tire, pounded it on the wheel, and let the thing
cool.

So, I suppose heating the object - whether a yoke or a railroad rim - is
sufficient.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

This is my favorite trick, heat it up with a torch not too hot then
apply candle wax to the joint. Hot candle wax is a very good
penetrating lubricant. Works for rusty nuts and bolts and problems
like the OP has.

Jimmie

"Ladies and Gentlemen... We have a winner...!" (with
honorable mention to Tnom)

I did not have any beeswax handy, but did have some candle
wax.

Before describing my experience, I will admit that I thought
it unlikely that either technique would work because it
seemed to me that the melted wax would be far too viscous to
penetrate, and I had no luck with (what I thought were
"proper" penetrants.)

So, this morning, with a candle in hand, I approached the
beast, lit my torch, heated the yoke slightly, and dabbed on
the wax, both in front of, and behind the yoke.

I then intended to hammer the yoke back on, but because of
the odd shape have to be very cautious to locate the blows
properly. The first few stroked were very light taps rather
than the firm strikes I expected to need.

Tap tap tap and the damn thing move... visibly.

Next, I grabbed my prybar and the spacer that allowed it to
work. I expected to have to lean into it as I had, but as I
got it into position just its weight and its wedging action
moved the thing slightly.

I gave a pull, and it moved about 3/4"... Another pull, and
it was in my hand.

I was truly astounded, and most appreciative.

I've been around tools for fifty years, and had not heard of
this wax trick before.

Sincere thanks for all the help,
--
Kenneth

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