My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?

wrote:
My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC?

Don't think so.

The suggestion I have seen is put a double pole double throw switch on
the H and N wires and switch them to a male socket to which you attach
an extension cord when necessary.

--
bud--

wrote in message
...
My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?



A better way is using a flanged inlet such as this:
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...US&item=335 8
and the double pole double throw switch that Bud suggested:
http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...US&item=296 7

The flanged inlets are also available in twistlock if you prefer. Mount the
flanged inlet in a box right on the furnace and change your existing shut
off switch to the double throw.

wrote:
My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?

I'd tap into the works at the circuit breaker box. No "wiring," just some
plugs and boxes.

wrote:

My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?

This is the transfer switch I use with my Honda EU2000i:

http://www.generators.us.com/TF151W-...er-Switch.html

Reliance Controls 15 amp TF151W Easy/Tran TF Furnace Transfer Switch.
It's sold by lots of places.

There is also a 20 amp version:

http://www.generators.us.com/TF201W-...er-Switch.html

Reliance Controls 20 amp TF201W Easy/Tran TF Furnace Transfer Switch

On Dec 12, 11:49*am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
wrote in message

...





My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?

A better way is using a flanged inlet such as this:http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...ex=10021:22372...
and the double pole double throw switch that Bud suggested:http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...ex=10021:22372...

The flanged inlets are also available in twistlock if you prefer. *Mount the
flanged inlet in a box right on the furnace and change your existing shut
off switch to the double throw.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

most importantly..
do not even THINK of running the generator in the basement or near an
open window...or
anyplace the CO can get sucked into the furnace.

How will you route the cable in but keep the CO out?

Mark

On Dec 12, 9:46*am, wrote:
My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?

Is that the 1000w honda, without knowing how big the blower is just
remember on startup a blower motor surge will pull more, it might be
all the unit can take. Have your extension cord so the gen is far away
from the house, I got Co in mine being 10 ft away.

On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 09:36:31 -0800 (PST), Mark1
wrote:

On Dec 12, 11:49Â*am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
wrote in message

...





My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?

A better way is using a flanged inlet such as this:http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...ex=10021:22372...
and the double pole double throw switch that Bud suggested:http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...ex=10021:22372...

The flanged inlets are also available in twistlock if you prefer. Â*Mount the
flanged inlet in a box right on the furnace and change your existing shut
off switch to the double throw.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

most importantly..
do not even THINK of running the generator in the basement or near an
open window...or
anyplace the CO can get sucked into the furnace.

How will you route the cable in but keep the CO out?

Mark

You make the modification you proposed at the panel - if the panel is
in the garage, and run the genny on the driveway or out back of the
garage.

Mark1 wrote:
On Dec 12, 11:49 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
wrote in message

...





My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.
If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.
What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.
Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?
A better way is using a flanged inlet such as this:http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...ex=10021:22372...
and the double pole double throw switch that Bud suggested:http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...ex=10021:22372...

The flanged inlets are also available in twistlock if you prefer. Mount the
flanged inlet in a box right on the furnace and change your existing shut
off switch to the double throw.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

most importantly..
do not even THINK of running the generator in the basement or near an
open window...or
anyplace the CO can get sucked into the furnace.

How will you route the cable in but keep the CO out?

Mark




That part is easy, the generator should be outside, period. Run the cord
in under a door, through a window, and use a strip of tape to seal the
rest of the gap from drafts, through a pet door, etc.

The furnace won't suck in CO, the air it sucks comes from the return duct.

"Erma1ina" wrote in message
...
wrote:

My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?

This is the transfer switch I use with my Honda EU2000i:

http://www.generators.us.com/TF151W-...er-Switch.html

Reliance Controls 15 amp TF151W Easy/Tran TF Furnace Transfer Switch.
It's sold by lots of places.

There is also a 20 amp version:

http://www.generators.us.com/TF201W-...er-Switch.html

Reliance Controls 20 amp TF201W Easy/Tran TF Furnace Transfer Switch



*This is a much better solution. You can just wire it into your circuit
breaker panel onto the furnace circuit.

Mark1 wrote:

On Dec 12, 11:49 am, "John Grabowski" wrote:
wrote in message

...





My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?

A better way is using a flanged inlet such as this:http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...ex=10021:22372...
and the double pole double throw switch that Bud suggested:http://www.leviton.com/OA_HTML/ibeCC...ex=10021:22372...

The flanged inlets are also available in twistlock if you prefer. Mount the
flanged inlet in a box right on the furnace and change your existing shut
off switch to the double throw.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

most importantly..
do not even THINK of running the generator in the basement or near an
open window...or
anyplace the CO can get sucked into the furnace.

How will you route the cable in but keep the CO out?

Mark

Here's what I do:

1. Remove the spline in order to open up a small (1 inch is adequate)
corner of the screen on a window ~12 ft. from the EU2000i generator
which sits outside, on a deck, with exhaust pointing into open air.

2. Open the storm window and the inner window to run the two 12 gauge
extension cords (one 50 ft., one 75 ft.) from the generator inside.

3. Shut the storm window so it rests on the cords and put foam backer
rod under the small remaining open space to "seal" it.

4. Do the same with the inner window.

5. Run the 75 ft. extension cord (with an added 1 ft. 12 gauge 3-outlet
extension) upstairs for refrigerator-freezer, radio.

6. Run the 50 ft. extension cord (with an added 1 ft. 12 gauge 3-outlet
extension) to the basement for furnace transfer switch, small chest
freezer, sump pump.

7. Use 25 ft. 12 gauge extension cords, where necessary (for example, to
the furnace transfer switch), to run power from the 3-outlet extensions
to whatever I want to power up in the basement. So nothing is farther
than 76 ft. of 12 gauge extension cord from the generator.

8. Keep battery-operated CO detector in room with window through which
the extension cords from the generator are run. So far ZERO CO level has
been measured in 80 hrs (~20 episodes) of running.

On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 07:46:12 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

JUst make sure you have a non-corroded flashlight and batteries,
because you're going to be finishing this job when there is no
electricity. At least I would be.

I've found that alkaline batteries and even carbon-zinc flashlight
batteries last for years when I don't use them, or only use them when
I'm actually looking at something. But 2 or 3 years stretches into 5
years pretty easily. And I don't think my flashlight batteries have
ever lasted longer than 5 or 6 years.

I keep my batteries, film, long candles, drugs, and paint dispensers**
in my fridge. **They have those paint brushes and rollers that suck
the paint into the handle. I used to clean every night, but I found I
could just put the thing in the refrigerator and it was good the next
day, even several days later.

mm wrote:
On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 07:46:12 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

JUst make sure you have a non-corroded flashlight and batteries,
because you're going to be finishing this job when there is no
electricity. At least I would be.

I've found that alkaline batteries and even carbon-zinc flashlight
batteries last for years when I don't use them, or only use them when
I'm actually looking at something. But 2 or 3 years stretches into 5
years pretty easily. And I don't think my flashlight batteries have
ever lasted longer than 5 or 6 years.

I keep my batteries, film, long candles, drugs, and paint dispensers**
in my fridge. **They have those paint brushes and rollers that suck
the paint into the handle. I used to clean every night, but I found I
could just put the thing in the refrigerator and it was good the next
day, even several days later.


I've sure had a lot of alkaline batteries leak, seems worse in the last
several years. Have had several Maglites ruined by leaks, if you can get
the batteries out the manufacture will usually pay for the damaged item.
I'm hoping the eneloop rechargeables I use now will hold up better.
Lithium is a good option for emergency flashlights too, they rarely leak.

About 99+% of gas furnaces in my area , with the exception of
manufacuted houses aka mobile homes, are hooked up with a regular cord
and receptacle. Of course they are located either in the attic or a
closet in the house or garage--basements are VERY rare here. Don't know
about code, but that's the way it is done here and has been that way for
decades. Larry

On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 17:01:25 -0800, James Sweet
wrote:


I've found that alkaline batteries and even carbon-zinc flashlight
batteries last for years when I don't use them, or only use them when
I'm actually looking at something. But 2 or 3 years stretches into 5
years pretty easily. And I don't think my flashlight batteries have
ever lasted longer than 5 or 6 years.

I keep my batteries, film, long candles, drugs, and paint dispensers**
in my fridge. **They have those paint brushes and rollers that suck
the paint into the handle. I used to clean every night, but I found I
could just put the thing in the refrigerator and it was good the next
day, even several days later.


I've sure had a lot of alkaline batteries leak, seems worse in the last
several years.

I try to avoid things that use batteries, but I still have a bunch,
and I've only had one or two alkalines leak, both in the same device
at the same time. Carbon-zinc definitely leaked more often, but with
flashlights I figured if I left the light on, I'd only waste cheaper
batteries.

I've bought foreign batteries at hamfests, one batch so cheap they
leaked within weeks of being put in something (without damage,
somehow) so I threw them all away. (They were in the fridge until I
used them. One gave hints of leaking, iirc, while still in the
fridge, but theese were verrrry cheap.)

In another situation at a hamfest, the guy next to me noticed how
light the "alkaline" batteries were, and he was right, they were too
light to be alkaline.

Finally, in the past year, I bought some "Duracell"s at a price that
seemed too low, and eventually noticed that the small circle that's
supposed to have an R or TM inside had nothing but a dot inside.
Maybe it t also didn't say "alkaline", which is what makes it a
Duracell as opposed to some other type battery.

Have had several Maglites ruined by leaks, if you can get
the batteries out the manufacture will usually pay for the damaged item.

You have to get the batteries out? I don't know but isn't it more
convincing when the batteries are stuck inside?

IIUC what it says on the batteries, they will pay for a flashlight of
something of similar cost if flashlight batteries (carbon-zinc) leak,
and they'll pay more money for something electronic if alkaline leak.
And there are probably other rules for other kinds of batteries.

Makes sense to me.

I'm hoping the eneloop rechargeables I use now will hold up better.

I'm finally reading the manual for my fancy camera, and it gives
several reasons why rechargeables won't have power as long as one
would want. Not using them for a long time was one. (I can find the
list if you want.) Maybe it's not true and they just don't want
people complaining to them, the camera company, when it probably is
either normal or a battery problem.

Lithium is a good option for emergency flashlights too, they rarely leak.

Finally, in the past year, I bought some "Duracell"s at a price that
seemed too low, and eventually noticed that the small circle that's
supposed to have an R or TM inside had nothing but a dot inside.
Maybe it t also didn't say "alkaline", which is what makes it a
Duracell as opposed to some other type battery.


I've seen pics of those, but so far mine have been real Duracells, and
I've had them leak too.



You have to get the batteries out? I don't know but isn't it more
convincing when the batteries are stuck inside?


Well if you can't get them out, you have to remember what brand they
were to find out where to send them. Sometimes you can tell, sometimes
it is not obvious.


I'm finally reading the manual for my fancy camera, and it gives
several reasons why rechargeables won't have power as long as one
would want. Not using them for a long time was one. (I can find the
list if you want.) Maybe it's not true and they just don't want
people complaining to them, the camera company, when it probably is
either normal or a battery problem.


Rechargeable batteries have a lower nominal voltage than alkalines, for
some things this is a problem, for others it is not, and more things
these days are made with rechargeable batteries in mind. In my own
experience, they last longer in things like cameras, but it depends on
the nature of the load. The big advantage is when they go dead, you pop
them in the charger and use them again over and over, I'd be perfectly
willing to sacrifice some run time for that. Environmentally better than
tossing out piles of dead alkalines as well.

On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 09:51:04 -0800 (PST), ransley
wrote:

On Dec 12, 9:46Â*am, wrote:
My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?

Is that the 1000w honda, without knowing how big the blower is just
remember on startup a blower motor surge will pull more, it might be
all the unit can take. Have your extension cord so the gen is far away
from the house, I got Co in mine being 10 ft away.


DC blower motor solves that problem - soft start.

My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?

You could probably do that, but you seem to be saying you don't have a
transfer switch, making such an arrangement against code because you
don't mention anything about preventing backfeeds. What you might use
safely would be a double pole, triple throw (off in center) switch for
break-before-make connections.
I think if you check with your local code enforcement office though
you will find that only a transfer switch and probably a separate
outdoor disconnect point is acceptable.

If you already have a transfer switch and the only problem is exactly
as stated, then a switch as described would suffice nicely. They're
also fairly common switches, especially if you live around any farmland.
I picked one up from Agway in fact. Mostly you just need to be sure the
switch goes through an open ckit on the way from one connection to the
other. Most switches are of the make before break types, meaning they
temporarily connect BOTH sources for an instant as the switch is thrown.
Middle-off is an easy way to avoid that. Besides, you also need a
disconnect method, and the middle off provides that, too.

HTH

Twayne

Twayne wrote:
My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

That would easily wire into a transfer switch no problem.

You really need to look at transfer switches.


If he already has the generator, a DPDT switch *is* a viable option, and
a lot cheaper than a transfer switch.

nate


--
replace "roosters" with "cox" to reply.
http://members.cox.net/njnagel

My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

That would easily wire into a transfer switch no problem.

You really need to look at transfer switches.

On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 20:05:21 -0800, James Sweet
wrote:


You have to get the batteries out? I don't know but isn't it more
convincing when the batteries are stuck inside?


Well if you can't get them out, you have to remember what brand they
were to find out where to send them. Sometimes you can tell, sometimes
it is not obvious.

Oh, yeah. You're right.

They should mark the brand on the ends too. It's probably a sleezy
trick by the makers to avoid paying out when they leak.

I'm finally reading the manual for my fancy camera, and it gives
several reasons why rechargeables won't have power as long as one
would want. Not using them for a long time was one. (I can find the
list if you want.) Maybe it's not true and they just don't want
people complaining to them, the camera company, when it probably is
either normal or a battery problem.


Rechargeable batteries have a lower nominal voltage than alkalines, for
some things this is a problem, for others it is not, and more things
these days are made with rechargeable batteries in mind. In my own
experience, they last longer in things like cameras, but it depends on
the nature of the load. The big advantage is when they go dead, you pop
them in the charger and use them again over and over, I'd be perfectly
willing to sacrifice some run time for that. Environmentally better than
tossing out piles of dead alkalines as well.

Yeah, the AA are 1.2 volts and the batteries-in-camera plug-in charger
(not included) is supposed to be 5 volts for 4 of them. If I
eventually try to use these in a penlight, I don't suppose they will
work. Not enough voltage.

I don't remember how dead they were when I stopped using the camera
last Jan. or Feb, but on election day, they were totally dead. They
seemed to charge up fine but I haven't tried to use them or to measure
their voltage.

The other set, in the fridge since last January, were still 1.24 or
1.26 volts when I took them out last week.

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 13:21:44 -0500, "Twayne"
wrote:

My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?

You could probably do that, but you seem to be saying you don't have a
transfer switch, making such an arrangement against code because you
don't mention anything about preventing backfeeds.


Backfeeds?

How the heck do you get a backfeed when you unplug something from one
power supply and plug it into another one?
Absolutely IMPOSSIBLE.

What he has is a double pole, Infinite throw,break before make,
manually operated switch. Can't get better backfeed protection than
that.


What you might use
safely would be a double pole, triple throw (off in center) switch for
break-before-make connections.
I think if you check with your local code enforcement office though
you will find that only a transfer switch and probably a separate
outdoor disconnect point is acceptable.

If you already have a transfer switch and the only problem is exactly
as stated, then a switch as described would suffice nicely. They're
also fairly common switches, especially if you live around any farmland.
I picked one up from Agway in fact. Mostly you just need to be sure the
switch goes through an open ckit on the way from one connection to the
other. Most switches are of the make before break types, meaning they
temporarily connect BOTH sources for an instant as the switch is thrown.
Middle-off is an easy way to avoid that. Besides, you also need a
disconnect method, and the middle off provides that, too.

HTH

Twayne

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 15:56:48 -0500, mm
wrote:

On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 20:05:21 -0800, James Sweet
wrote:


You have to get the batteries out? I don't know but isn't it more
convincing when the batteries are stuck inside?


Well if you can't get them out, you have to remember what brand they
were to find out where to send them. Sometimes you can tell, sometimes
it is not obvious.

Oh, yeah. You're right.

They should mark the brand on the ends too. It's probably a sleezy
trick by the makers to avoid paying out when they leak.

I'm finally reading the manual for my fancy camera, and it gives
several reasons why rechargeables won't have power as long as one
would want. Not using them for a long time was one. (I can find the
list if you want.) Maybe it's not true and they just don't want
people complaining to them, the camera company, when it probably is
either normal or a battery problem.


Rechargeable batteries have a lower nominal voltage than alkalines, for
some things this is a problem, for others it is not, and more things
these days are made with rechargeable batteries in mind. In my own
experience, they last longer in things like cameras, but it depends on
the nature of the load. The big advantage is when they go dead, you pop
them in the charger and use them again over and over, I'd be perfectly
willing to sacrifice some run time for that. Environmentally better than
tossing out piles of dead alkalines as well.

Yeah, the AA are 1.2 volts and the batteries-in-camera plug-in charger
(not included) is supposed to be 5 volts for 4 of them. If I
eventually try to use these in a penlight, I don't suppose they will
work. Not enough voltage.

I don't remember how dead they were when I stopped using the camera
last Jan. or Feb, but on election day, they were totally dead. They
seemed to charge up fine but I haven't tried to use them or to measure
their voltage.

The other set, in the fridge since last January, were still 1.24 or
1.26 volts when I took them out last week.

NiCads loose about 20%? charge per month - they are USELESS for
standby power apps where they sit unused for months, and are then
expected to work.

wrote:
On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 15:56:48 -0500, mm
wrote:

On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 20:05:21 -0800, James Sweet
wrote:

You have to get the batteries out? I don't know but isn't it more
convincing when the batteries are stuck inside?

Well if you can't get them out, you have to remember what brand they
were to find out where to send them. Sometimes you can tell, sometimes
it is not obvious.
Oh, yeah. You're right.

They should mark the brand on the ends too. It's probably a sleezy
trick by the makers to avoid paying out when they leak.

I'm finally reading the manual for my fancy camera, and it gives
several reasons why rechargeables won't have power as long as one
would want. Not using them for a long time was one. (I can find the
list if you want.) Maybe it's not true and they just don't want
people complaining to them, the camera company, when it probably is
either normal or a battery problem.

Rechargeable batteries have a lower nominal voltage than alkalines, for
some things this is a problem, for others it is not, and more things
these days are made with rechargeable batteries in mind. In my own
experience, they last longer in things like cameras, but it depends on
the nature of the load. The big advantage is when they go dead, you pop
them in the charger and use them again over and over, I'd be perfectly
willing to sacrifice some run time for that. Environmentally better than
tossing out piles of dead alkalines as well.
Yeah, the AA are 1.2 volts and the batteries-in-camera plug-in charger
(not included) is supposed to be 5 volts for 4 of them. If I
eventually try to use these in a penlight, I don't suppose they will
work. Not enough voltage.

I don't remember how dead they were when I stopped using the camera
last Jan. or Feb, but on election day, they were totally dead. They
seemed to charge up fine but I haven't tried to use them or to measure
their voltage.

The other set, in the fridge since last January, were still 1.24 or
1.26 volts when I took them out last week.

NiCads loose about 20%? charge per month - they are USELESS for
standby power apps where they sit unused for months, and are then
expected to work.


They do, and so do conventional NiMH batteries, but there is a new breed
that does not suffer from this problem. Look up Sanyo Eneloop, there are
a number of clones, known as low self discharge, hybrid, etc. I've been
using mostly Eneloops in my stuff and they live up to their claims, and
will hold roughly 85% charge over a year of sitting. I've heard some
others are about the same, only ones I've had any real negative
experience with were Tenergy, they're cheap, but worthless.

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 17:33:16 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 15:56:48 -0500, mm
wrote:

On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 20:05:21 -0800, James Sweet
wrote:


Rechargeable batteries have a lower nominal voltage than alkalines, for
some things this is a problem, for others it is not, and more things
these days are made with rechargeable batteries in mind. In my own
experience, they last longer in things like cameras, but it depends on
the nature of the load. The big advantage is when they go dead, you pop
them in the charger and use them again over and over, I'd be perfectly
willing to sacrifice some run time for that. Environmentally better than
tossing out piles of dead alkalines as well.

Yeah, the AA are 1.2 volts and the batteries-in-camera plug-in charger
(not included) is supposed to be 5 volts for 4 of them. If I
eventually try to use these in a penlight, I don't suppose they will
work. Not enough voltage.

I don't remember how dead they were when I stopped using the camera
last Jan. or Feb, but on election day, they were totally dead. They
seemed to charge up fine but I haven't tried to use them or to measure
their voltage.

The other set, in the fridge since last January, were still 1.24 or
1.26 volts when I took them out last week.

NiCads loose about 20%? charge per month - they are USELESS for
standby power apps where they sit unused for months, and are then
expected to work.

Mine were NiMH. That's what the camera shop was pushing.

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:51:49 -0800, James Sweet
wrote:



The other set, in the fridge since last January, were still 1.24 or
1.26 volts when I took them out last week.

NiCads loose about 20%? charge per month - they are USELESS for
standby power apps where they sit unused for months, and are then
expected to work.


They do, and so do conventional NiMH batteries, but there is a new breed
that does not suffer from this problem. Look up Sanyo Eneloop, there are

I don't think that describes mine, even though mine kept their charge
for 9 or 10 months in the fridge. I bought them a year ago. I don't
know if that is older than the new breed. This is all it says on the
label:

They are GP2000 series, made in Malaysia, product of Gold Peak Group,
www.gpbatteries.com.hk

200AAHC, 1.2V typical 1950mAH

Standard charge 16 hours at 190ma.

I bought the camera and the batteries while traveling, not in America.

a number of clones, known as low self discharge, hybrid, etc. I've been
using mostly Eneloops in my stuff and they live up to their claims, and
will hold roughly 85% charge over a year of sitting. I've heard some
others are about the same, only ones I've had any real negative
experience with were Tenergy, they're cheap, but worthless.

mm wrote:
On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:51:49 -0800, James Sweet
wrote:

The other set, in the fridge since last January, were still 1.24 or
1.26 volts when I took them out last week.

NiCads loose about 20%? charge per month - they are USELESS for
standby power apps where they sit unused for months, and are then
expected to work.

They do, and so do conventional NiMH batteries, but there is a new breed
that does not suffer from this problem. Look up Sanyo Eneloop, there are

I don't think that describes mine, even though mine kept their charge
for 9 or 10 months in the fridge. I bought them a year ago. I don't
know if that is older than the new breed. This is all it says on the
label:



If they don't specifically say low self discharge, precharged, or
hybrid, then they are conventional NiMH batteries. Storing them in the
fridge will indeed reduce self discharge of either type.

wrote in message
I have been in discussions with inspectors about this and the only
real NEC violation with a cord and plug connected furnace motor is the
manufacturer's installation instructions don't say you can do it.
On the other hand I have never seen instructions that specifically
said you couldn't. If you said you were doing this to make the blower
easier to service, THAT is legal.

Technicality, but the motor wiring is not touched, the main wiring (control)
box is.

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 23:22:13 -0500, "Ed Pawlowski"
wrote:


wrote in message
I have been in discussions with inspectors about this and the only
real NEC violation with a cord and plug connected furnace motor is the
manufacturer's installation instructions don't say you can do it.
On the other hand I have never seen instructions that specifically
said you couldn't. If you said you were doing this to make the blower
easier to service, THAT is legal.

Technicality, but the motor wiring is not touched, the main wiring (control)
box is.

The code requires a manual disconnect within X feet of the furnace.
This is USAUALLY assumed to be a switch.
A plug serves the same function and is easier to tie down (disable for
service)

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 22:21:50 -0500, mm
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:51:49 -0800, James Sweet
wrote:



The other set, in the fridge since last January, were still 1.24 or
1.26 volts when I took them out last week.

NiCads loose about 20%? charge per month - they are USELESS for
standby power apps where they sit unused for months, and are then
expected to work.


They do, and so do conventional NiMH batteries, but there is a new breed
that does not suffer from this problem. Look up Sanyo Eneloop, there are

I don't think that describes mine, even though mine kept their charge
for 9 or 10 months in the fridge. I bought them a year ago. I don't
know if that is older than the new breed. This is all it says on the
label:

They are GP2000 series, made in Malaysia, product of Gold Peak Group,
www.gpbatteries.com.hk

200AAHC, 1.2V typical 1950mAH

Standard charge 16 hours at 190ma.

I bought the camera and the batteries while traveling, not in America.

a number of clones, known as low self discharge, hybrid, etc. I've been
using mostly Eneloops in my stuff and they live up to their claims, and
will hold roughly 85% charge over a year of sitting. I've heard some
others are about the same, only ones I've had any real negative
experience with were Tenergy, they're cheap, but worthless.
And the only Gold Peak batteries I've ever owned were absolute trash.
Mabee if they were kept in the fridge instead of used mine might have
lasted longer??

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 13:21:44 -0500, "Twayne"
wrote:

My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run
it off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is
the small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably
just jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension
cord. I'd like something a little more... sophisticated, something
that is ready on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box
with an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent
to the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?

You could probably do that, but you seem to be saying you don't have
a transfer switch, making such an arrangement against code because
you don't mention anything about preventing backfeeds.


Backfeeds?

How the heck do you get a backfeed when you unplug something from one
power supply and plug it into another one?
Absolutely IMPOSSIBLE.

Impossible isn't what it's about. POSSIBLE is what it's about, and to
use a generator, you need a transfer switch. What I think I left out is
that his local code enforcement office is going to have the final word
on the subject; that is where he has to check. If they allow it, it's
legal. If not, it's not. It's easy to call & ask rather than put up
with rhetoric in places like this. He's going to need a transfer switch
that guarantees never backfeeding; nothing guarantess he won't hook it
up in a manner that could backfeed, whether he intended to or not.
Plus, he's not the only soul on earth that might use the generator -
they don't accept taht as an arguement. Only positive situations are
allowed, not promises.


What he has is a double pole, Infinite throw,break before make,
manually operated switch. Can't get better backfeed protection than
that.


What you might use
safely would be a double pole, triple throw (off in center) switch
for break-before-make connections.
I think if you check with your local code enforcement office though
you will find that only a transfer switch and probably a separate
outdoor disconnect point is acceptable.

If you already have a transfer switch and the only problem is
exactly as stated, then a switch as described would suffice nicely.
They're also fairly common switches, especially if you live around
any farmland. I picked one up from Agway in fact. Mostly you just
need to be sure the switch goes through an open ckit on the way from
one connection to the other. Most switches are of the make before
break types, meaning they temporarily connect BOTH sources for an
instant as the switch is thrown. Middle-off is an easy way to avoid
that. Besides, you also need a disconnect method, and the middle
off provides that, too.

HTH

Twayne

wrote:
On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 17:31:10 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 13:21:44 -0500, "Twayne"
wrote:

My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?
You could probably do that, but you seem to be saying you don't have a
transfer switch, making such an arrangement against code because you
don't mention anything about preventing backfeeds.

Backfeeds?

How the heck do you get a backfeed when you unplug something from one
power supply and plug it into another one?
Absolutely IMPOSSIBLE.

What he has is a double pole, Infinite throw,break before make,
manually operated switch. Can't get better backfeed protection than
that.


What you might use
safely would be a double pole, triple throw (off in center) switch for
break-before-make connections.
I think if you check with your local code enforcement office though
you will find that only a transfer switch and probably a separate
outdoor disconnect point is acceptable.

If you already have a transfer switch and the only problem is exactly
as stated, then a switch as described would suffice nicely. They're
also fairly common switches, especially if you live around any farmland.
I picked one up from Agway in fact. Mostly you just need to be sure the
switch goes through an open ckit on the way from one connection to the
other. Most switches are of the make before break types, meaning they
temporarily connect BOTH sources for an instant as the switch is thrown.
Middle-off is an easy way to avoid that. Besides, you also need a
disconnect method, and the middle off provides that, too.

HTH

Twayne


I have been in discussions with inspectors about this and the only
real NEC violation with a cord and plug connected furnace motor is the
manufacturer's installation instructions don't say you can do it.
On the other hand I have never seen instructions that specifically
said you couldn't. If you said you were doing this to make the blower
easier to service, THAT is legal.

Having a plug-and cord connected blower motor for servicing should be
code compliant. I don't see how cord and plug connecting a fixed in
place furnace (the OP's plan) is permitted.

Considering the other alternatives I do not see this as the most
unsafe option. Keep the pigtail with the cord and plug as short as
possible to minimize the damage potential, use a good "hard service"
cord with a proper cord grip on the blower end and a molded plug and
"rock on" IMHO.

Aside from the code, the plan sounds practical and safe.

--
bud--

just a regular old grounded pigtail and a standard outlet will do just fine.
That's the way my HVAC guy installs all furnaces. That way the plug serves
as the disconnect required to be within vision of the furnace serviceman.

s


wrote in message
...
My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC? Would running flex cable from the socket
clear to the furnace be a more acceptable solution?

Steve Barker DLT wrote:
just a regular old grounded pigtail and a standard outlet will do just fine.
That's the way my HVAC guy installs all furnaces. That way the plug serves
as the disconnect required to be within vision of the furnace serviceman.

s



Furnaces around here are all wired with armored flex, usually a standard
light switch in a box on the side as a disconnect. I see no safety issue
with using a pigtail plugged into a receptacle to power the furnace, but
local codes may say otherwise, it's worth checking.

On Sun, 14 Dec 2008 00:00:02 -0500, wrote:

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 22:21:50 -0500, mm
wrote:

On Sat, 13 Dec 2008 14:51:49 -0800, James Sweet
wrote:



The other set, in the fridge since last January, were still 1.24 or
1.26 volts when I took them out last week.

NiCads loose about 20%? charge per month - they are USELESS for
standby power apps where they sit unused for months, and are then
expected to work.


They do, and so do conventional NiMH batteries, but there is a new breed
that does not suffer from this problem. Look up Sanyo Eneloop, there are

I don't think that describes mine, even though mine kept their charge
for 9 or 10 months in the fridge. I bought them a year ago. I don't
know if that is older than the new breed. This is all it says on the
label:

They are GP2000 series, made in Malaysia, product of Gold Peak Group,
www.gpbatteries.com.hk

200AAHC, 1.2V typical 1950mAH

Standard charge 16 hours at 190ma.

I bought the camera and the batteries while traveling, not in America.

a number of clones, known as low self discharge, hybrid, etc. I've been
using mostly Eneloops in my stuff and they live up to their claims, and
will hold roughly 85% charge over a year of sitting. I've heard some
others are about the same, only ones I've had any real negative
experience with were Tenergy, they're cheap, but worthless.
And the only Gold Peak batteries I've ever owned were absolute trash.
Mabee if they were kept in the fridge instead of used mine might have
lasted longer??

Maybe.

OTOH all I know is that they didn't lose a charge in the last 10 or 11
months.

I bought the camera about a year ago, and only used it daily for about
2 weeks, and then a day or two 2 weeks later. I'm not sure I ran this
set of batteries down more than once. (Because when i bought a
separate recharger, I ended up with two sets.

So I still don't know how many times I'll be able to recharge them,
and I'll never know, because this is not the kind of thing I'll
remember. And since I ended up buying a second smaller, cheaper
digital camera, that I use far more often, with a different kind of
battery, I may only charge these AA batteries once a year and if they
only last say 4 charges, i won't know if that is because they weren't
good batteries or because they're 4 years old.

Now if they take 10 full charges over ten years, I guess we'd all call
them good, but I won't be able to tell you that for another 9 years.

On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 09:57:17 -0600, bud--
wrote:

wrote:
My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC?

Don't think so.

The suggestion I have seen is put a double pole double throw switch on
the H and N wires and switch them to a male socket to which you attach
an extension cord when necessary.

Any reason it needs to be that complicated? No need for a switch at
all, just put a regular plug on the wires going to the furnace and
move it to either a regular receptacle or an extension cords.
--
10 days until the winter solstice celebration

Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.laughingsquid.com

"The government of the United States is not, in
any sense, founded on the Christian religion."

Is this kosher with NEC?
Don't think so.

The suggestion I have seen is put a double pole double throw switch on
the H and N wires and switch them to a male socket to which you attach
an extension cord when necessary.

Any reason it needs to be that complicated? No need for a switch at
all, just put a regular plug on the wires going to the furnace and
move it to either a regular receptacle or an extension cords.



Use a single outlet, not a duplex. And a nice armored plug. Keep everything short and neat.

Bob

zxcvbob wrote:

Is this kosher with NEC?
Don't think so.

The suggestion I have seen is put a double pole double throw switch
on the H and N wires and switch them to a male socket to which you
attach an extension cord when necessary.

Any reason it needs to be that complicated? No need for a switch at
all, just put a regular plug on the wires going to the furnace and
move it to either a regular receptacle or an extension cords.



Use a single outlet, not a duplex. And a nice armored plug. Keep
everything short and neat.

Bob


And check local codes. It should be perfectly safe, but code is not
always logical, and just because it is safe does not mean it is legal.
That naturally doesn't stop a lot of people, but I like to keep things
up to code whenever possible, reduces the chance of liability.

Mark Lloyd wrote:
On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 09:57:17 -0600, bud--
wrote:

wrote:
My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

If we were in for an extended outage right now, I would probably just
jury-rig it with wire nuts and a sacrificed 12ga extension cord. I'd
like something a little more... sophisticated, something that is ready
on a moment's notice.

What if I:
1. Cut the existing hard line above the furnace and install a box with
an L5-20 twistlock socket.
2. Continue the hard line to the furnace from a second box adjacent to
the first.
3. Bug a short piece of 12-3 flexible cord to the hard line in the
second box.
4. Terminate the flexible cord with an L5-20 twistlock plug.

Is this kosher with NEC?
Don't think so.

The suggestion I have seen is put a double pole double throw switch on
the H and N wires and switch them to a male socket to which you attach
an extension cord when necessary.

Any reason it needs to be that complicated? No need for a switch at
all, just put a regular plug on the wires going to the furnace and
move it to either a regular receptacle or an extension cords.

A switch and an "inlet" isn't much more complicated.

The NEC limits the use of cords to connect equipment (422.16 is
relevant). Cord and plug connection is permitted for maintenance and
repair or frequent interchange. (Specifically alloweded are garbage
disposers, range hoods and wall mounted ovens.) If boilers and furnaces
were allowed to be cord and plug connected you would probably have
receptacles provided, and boilers and furnaces would come with cords the
HVAC installer would plug-in. (Would there be an electrical inspection?
If there was no furnace circuit outlet would someone connect to a
general use outlet with an extension cord?) IMHO hard wired is more
reliable for an essential function.

As I said in another post "aside from the code, the plan sounds
practical and safe."

--
bud--

mm wrote:

On Fri, 12 Dec 2008 07:46:12 -0800 (PST),
wrote:

My gas furnace is hard wired to the main panel. In the event of an
extended power outage in winter, I'd like to have the option to run it
off my small Honda generator. The only real electrical draw is the
small 110V blower motor.

JUst make sure you have a non-corroded flashlight and batteries,
because you're going to be finishing this job when there is no
electricity. At least I would be.

Unless he had a generator and a trouble light.g

Flashlights are still handy- but I was glad there was a plug in
shoplight right by my panel when I jury rigged mine up last Saturday.
Just got power back last night. Felt kinda weird working in the
entrance panel box with 120 light from the generator.

Another caution that I might have skimmed over as I've read this
thread--- [and why the double pole double throw switch is a good
idea. Make damn sure you don't leave any connection back to the
grid. Not only will it fry your generator if the power comes back-
it creates a dangerous situation for the guys working on the lines.

Jim