Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

On Sep 20, 10:55*pm, wrote:
Hello,

* * * * I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

Yeah - They're worried you would use a lamp cord type extension cord,
or one of those kight-weight orange or green outdoor extension cords
that are fine for small leafb;lowers, but not much else. If you gat
an extension cord with 14 ga wire, it should be ok, a 12 gauge wire
would be better. If it is only 10 feet or so long, it is not any
different than if the freezer was on a circuit that was 10 ft feet
farther from the circuit breaker or fuse box. Make sure the prongs
and the female end of the extension cord are secure, ir, the mating
plugs are making good contact to eliinate any overrrrrheating at the
plug-in points. Then check it out once in a while to see that things
are still fine.

Good idea to ask, you are on the right track.

Bob Hofmann

On Sep 20, 10:55*pm, wrote:
Hello,

* * * * I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

7 cu ft, what does it pull 100 watts? Likely only 100- 150, Gee maybe
20 ga would work.

wrote in
:

Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

Just get an AC extension cord. Not sure if this is in a garage or
basement but they come in short lengths and have flat wire and 90 degree
male ends which would help neaten things up if that's desired.

http://www.homedepot.com/webapp/wcs/...ctId=100084483

wrote:
Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

Long and/or small gauge extension cords will have more resistance which
will lower the voltage. Lower voltage will increase the current and
overheat the compressor motor and over time cause a premature failure.
Fire is a possibility but MC is probably more worried about a warranty
return.
Kevin

wrote in message
...
Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

Keep the cord as short as possible, with conductors equal to or larger than
the circuit conductors. Appliance extension cords are made in lengths up to
9'

wrote in message
...
Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

My freezer has been on an extension cord for 27 years now. It is, though, a
heavy duty one that can handle the load. Use a short cord designed for air
condition use and you are OK. They want to avoid people using the wimpy lamp
cord.

On Sat, 20 Sep 2008 23:55:14 -0400, wrote:

Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

Thanks for everyone's advice. I'll check what they have at the Home
Depot today.

Nick

On Sep 20, 10:55*pm, wrote:

snip

If this is a permanent location, consider adding a new outlet via
surface mounted Wiremold from the old outlet. It will be tidy, neat
and safe and meet whatever code requirements exist in your area.
Wiremold is quite easy to work with, and total cost will be in the
ballpark with a decent extension cord. HTH

Joe

"ransley" wrote in message
...
On Sep 20, 10:55 pm, wrote:
Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

7 cu ft, what does it pull 100 watts? Likely only 100- 150, Gee maybe
20 ga would work.

Right on. My top freezer, frost free frig draws only 75 watts during normal
operation.
Starting the compressor motor is another issue.
I'm sure the manufacturer is concend that a low line voltage condition plus
a long extension cord could eventually burn the motor.

Even though my fridge uses 75 watts, the starting current is 7.5 amps.

wrote:
Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick
A 7 cu ft refrigerator is a fairly small load. I wouldn't worry about
heating. The bigger worry is accidental disconnection. Use a new
extension cord of the needed length and put a bit of duct tape around
the connection between the refrigerator plug and the extension cord
receptacle.

They make a regular 'appliance' extension cord. They are 12ga.

s


wrote in message
...
Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

"Steve Barker DLT" wrote in message
...
They make a regular 'appliance' extension cord. They are 12ga.

s

I like those that have the 90 degree socket and are flat. I gaffer taped
one down on my garage floor five years ago, and the gaffer's tape is still
good. I wish duct tape was that good.

Steve

On Sun, 21 Sep 2008 07:50:09 -0400, "RBM" wrote:


wrote in message
.. .
Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

Keep the cord as short as possible, with conductors equal to or larger than
the circuit conductors. Appliance extension cords are made in lengths up to
9'



Install another outlet. Extension cords are intended for temporary
use only.

wrote:
Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

The only thing I would worry about would
be the ends of the cords getting wet and
corroding. A lot of freezers are in places
that may get wet like a garage or basement.
I would strap the extension cord to the
wall to keep the plug and socket off the
floor.

[8~{} Uncle Monster

"SteveB" toquerville@zionvistas wrote in
:


"Steve Barker DLT" wrote in message
...
They make a regular 'appliance' extension cord. They are 12ga.

s

I like those that have the 90 degree socket and are flat. I gaffer
taped one down on my garage floor five years ago, and the gaffer's
tape is still good. I wish duct tape was that good.

Steve




I wish duct tape was that good.

I'm insulted!!! :-)

Uncle Monster wrote:
wrote:
Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

The only thing I would worry about would
be the ends of the cords getting wet and
corroding. A lot of freezers are in places
that may get wet like a garage or basement.
I would strap the extension cord to the
wall to keep the plug and socket off the
floor.

[8~{} Uncle Monster
A valid concern, but an extension cord zip-tied to nails on the wall
starts to look like a permanent installation, which is a no-no in most
places. If the area is damp, I would run another outlet. If pretty isn't
a concern, wiremold is a valid and cheap option.

--
aem sends...

aemeijers wrote:
Uncle Monster wrote:
wrote:
Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

The only thing I would worry about would
be the ends of the cords getting wet and
corroding. A lot of freezers are in places
that may get wet like a garage or basement.
I would strap the extension cord to the
wall to keep the plug and socket off the
floor.

[8~{} Uncle Monster
A valid concern, but an extension cord zip-tied to nails on the wall
starts to look like a permanent installation, which is a no-no in most
places. If the area is damp, I would run another outlet. If pretty isn't
a concern, wiremold is a valid and cheap option.

--
aem sends...

I've run a lot of Wiremold in both metal
and plastic. I prefer the metal for power
because most of what I do is commercial.
The homeowner could put a plastic Wiremold
box extension over the existing outlet
box and run Romex inside the plastic channel
to a surface mount receptacle box and have
a neat installation. I wouldn't cable tie
the extension cord to nails when one hole
straps are readily available, that's silly.

[8~{} Uncle Monster

replying to hr(bob) , Dennis Osgood wrote:
hrhofmann wrote:

Yeah - They're worried you would use a lamp cord type extension cord,
or one of those kight-weight orange or green outdoor extension cords
that are fine for small leafb;lowers, but not much else. If you gat
an extension cord with 14 ga wire, it should be ok, a 12 gauge wire
would be better. If it is only 10 feet or so long, it is not any
different than if the freezer was on a circuit that was 10 ft feet
farther from the circuit breaker or fuse box. Make sure the prongs
and the female end of the extension cord are secure, ir, the mating
plugs are making good contact to eliinate any overrrrrheating at the
plug-in points. Then check it out once in a while to see that things
are still fine.
Good idea to ask, you are on the right track.
B..ob Hofmann



I had an 11,000 BTU window air conditioner hooked to a 100 ft extension
cord because I needed an additional 4-5 feet of cord. The a/c was not
working well at all. An electrician told me that the extension cord was
the problem. Get rid of the cord (or shorten it considerably to only what
I needed) and it will work. I did, and it worked great.

Just last week my daughter said that her new freezer was not freezing --
her food was thawed out but still cold enough to cook. I looked at the
freezer and her husband had hooked a 100 ft extension cord to the freezer
because the freezer cord was 2 ft too short. I remembered what the
electrician said about my a/c unit, and we moved the freezer to a new
outlet. The food was frozen in just a few hours.

I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.

--

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 9:44:04 AM UTC-4, Dennis Osgood wrote:
replying to hr(bob) , Dennis Osgood wrote:
hrhofmann wrote:

Yeah - They're worried you would use a lamp cord type extension cord,
or one of those kight-weight orange or green outdoor extension cords
that are fine for small leafb;lowers, but not much else. If you gat
an extension cord with 14 ga wire, it should be ok, a 12 gauge wire
would be better. If it is only 10 feet or so long, it is not any
different than if the freezer was on a circuit that was 10 ft feet
farther from the circuit breaker or fuse box. Make sure the prongs
and the female end of the extension cord are secure, ir, the mating
plugs are making good contact to eliinate any overrrrrheating at the
plug-in points. Then check it out once in a while to see that things
are still fine.
Good idea to ask, you are on the right track.
B..ob Hofmann



I had an 11,000 BTU window air conditioner hooked to a 100 ft extension
cord because I needed an additional 4-5 feet of cord. The a/c was not
working well at all. An electrician told me that the extension cord was
the problem. Get rid of the cord (or shorten it considerably to only what
I needed) and it will work. I did, and it worked great.

Just last week my daughter said that her new freezer was not freezing --
her food was thawed out but still cold enough to cook. I looked at the
freezer and her husband had hooked a 100 ft extension cord to the freezer
because the freezer cord was 2 ft too short. I remembered what the
electrician said about my a/c unit, and we moved the freezer to a new
outlet. The food was frozen in just a few hours.

I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.

--

You've identified the problem, voltage drop. The conductors have
to be sized for the load. An 11,000 BTU AC is a large load. It
also has a large initial startup current. That current over a
100 ft 16 gauge extension has considerable voltage drop. If the
extension cord was 10 or 12 gauge, it would work, but it's still
not advisable. The issue should be much less with a modern fridge
or freezer. They typically only pull ~90W or so. Bottom line you
want to use a short extension cord that is heavy enough for the load.

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 8:44:04 AM UTC-5, Dennis Osgood wrote:

replying to hr(bob) , Dennis Osgood wrote:
hrhofmann wrote:

You think old Bob will show up to read your reply to
his SEVEN YEAR OLD post????

On 6/23/2015 9:44 AM, Dennis Osgood wrote:

I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.


The size of the wire is more important than the length. If you used a
3' cord with 18 gauge wire it would be more of a problem than 100 foot
cord with #10 wire. Think of the wire as a pipe. You can only get so
much juice through it so bigger is better.

On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 08:11:18 -0700 (PDT), ItsJoanNotJoann
wrote:

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 8:44:04 AM UTC-5, Dennis Osgood wrote:

replying to hr(bob) , Dennis Osgood wrote:
hrhofmann wrote:

You think old Bob will show up to read your reply to
his SEVEN YEAR OLD post????


Why not? Robert is still posting here, right?

Dennis Osgood wrote:
replying to hr(bob) , Dennis Osgood wrote: outlet. The food was frozen in just a few hours.

I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.

Ohm's law is very simple to understand. If you used extension cord of
proper size(capacity to carry the current without too much voltage drop)
There shouldn't be a problem. a/c or freezer has motor which draws peak
current when it starts due to it's characteristics of inductive load)
Undersized cord is even fire hazard.

On 6/23/2015 1:55 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Ohm's law is very simple to understand. If you used extension cord of
proper size(capacity to carry the current without too much voltage drop)
There shouldn't be a problem. a/c or freezer has motor which draws peak
current when it starts due to it's characteristics of inductive load)
Undersized cord is even fire hazard.

Wonderful! I've got a compressor that dosn't run on
the extension cord. I've been waiting for someone to
use ohms law and help me understand.

You da man!


-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
On 6/23/2015 1:55 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Ohm's law is very simple to understand. If you used extension cord of
proper size(capacity to carry the current without too much voltage drop)
There shouldn't be a problem. a/c or freezer has motor which draws peak
current when it starts due to it's characteristics of inductive load)
Undersized cord is even fire hazard.

Ohm's law states that the current through a conductor between two points
is directly proportional to the potential difference across the two
points. Introducing the constant of proportionality, the resistance, one
arrives at the usual mathematical equation that describes this
relationship

Why would you have to "introduce" resistance to Ohm's law to arrive at Ohm's
law?

On 6/23/2015 1:55 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Ohm's law is very simple to understand. If you used extension cord of
proper size(capacity to carry the current without too much voltage drop)
There shouldn't be a problem. a/c or freezer has motor which draws peak
current when it starts due to it's characteristics of inductive load)
Undersized cord is even fire hazard.

Ohm's law states that the current through a conductor between two points
is directly proportional to the potential difference across the two
points. Introducing the constant of proportionality, the resistance, one
arrives at the usual mathematical equation that describes this relationship

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 11:19:59 AM UTC-5, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 08:11:18 -0700 (PDT), ItsJoanNotJoann
wrote:


You think old Bob will show up to read your reply to
his SEVEN YEAR OLD post????


Why not? Robert is still posting here, right?


Not unless he's posting under another name, he's not.

On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 13:07:11 -0700 (PDT), ItsJoanNotJoann
wrote:

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 11:19:59 AM UTC-5, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 08:11:18 -0700 (PDT), ItsJoanNotJoann
wrote:


You think old Bob will show up to read your reply to
his SEVEN YEAR OLD post????


Why not? Robert is still posting here, right?


Not unless he's posting under another name, he's not.

Prove it.

taxed and spent wrote:
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
On 6/23/2015 1:55 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Ohm's law is very simple to understand. If you used extension cord of
proper size(capacity to carry the current without too much voltage drop)
There shouldn't be a problem. a/c or freezer has motor which draws peak
current when it starts due to it's characteristics of inductive load)
Undersized cord is even fire hazard.

Ohm's law states that the current through a conductor between two points
is directly proportional to the potential difference across the two
points. Introducing the constant of proportionality, the resistance, one
arrives at the usual mathematical equation that describes this
relationship

Why would you have to "introduce" resistance to Ohm's law to arrive at Ohm's
law?


'Cos unit of resistance is Mr. Ohm?

Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/23/2015 1:55 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Ohm's law is very simple to understand. If you used extension cord of
proper size(capacity to carry the current without too much voltage drop)
There shouldn't be a problem. a/c or freezer has motor which draws peak
current when it starts due to it's characteristics of inductive load)
Undersized cord is even fire hazard.

Wonderful! I've got a compressor that dosn't run on
the extension cord. I've been waiting for someone to
use ohms law and help me understand.

You da man!


-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
Ohm's law with DC circuit is straight forward dealing with just
resistance. With AC circuit it has to deal with resistance and
reactance by inductor and/or capacitor. Unit of conductaance(vs. R)
is Mho, Admittance is Y(vs. Z)

"trader_4" wrote in message
...

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 9:44:04 AM UTC-4, Dennis Osgood wrote:
replying to hr(bob) , Dennis Osgood wrote:
hrhofmann wrote:

Yeah - They're worried you would use a lamp cord type extension cord,
or one of those kight-weight orange or green outdoor extension cords
that are fine for small leafb;lowers, but not much else. If you gat
an extension cord with 14 ga wire, it should be ok, a 12 gauge wire
would be better. If it is only 10 feet or so long, it is not any
different than if the freezer was on a circuit that was 10 ft feet
farther from the circuit breaker or fuse box. Make sure the prongs
and the female end of the extension cord are secure, ir, the mating
plugs are making good contact to eliinate any overrrrrheating at the
plug-in points. Then check it out once in a while to see that things
are still fine.
Good idea to ask, you are on the right track.
B..ob Hofmann



I had an 11,000 BTU window air conditioner hooked to a 100 ft extension
cord because I needed an additional 4-5 feet of cord. The a/c was not
working well at all. An electrician told me that the extension cord was
the problem. Get rid of the cord (or shorten it considerably to only what
I needed) and it will work. I did, and it worked great.

Just last week my daughter said that her new freezer was not freezing --
her food was thawed out but still cold enough to cook. I looked at the
freezer and her husband had hooked a 100 ft extension cord to the freezer
because the freezer cord was 2 ft too short. I remembered what the
electrician said about my a/c unit, and we moved the freezer to a new
outlet. The food was frozen in just a few hours.

(

I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.

--

You've identified the problem, voltage drop. The conductors have
to be sized for the load. An 11,000 BTU AC is a large load. It
also has a large initial startup current. That current over a
100 ft 16 gauge extension has considerable voltage drop. If the
extension cord was 10 or 12 gauge, it would work, but it's still
not advisable. The issue should be much less with a modern fridge
or freezer. They typically only pull ~90W or so. Bottom line you
want to use a short extension cord that is heavy enough for the load.

90 watts where the heck did you get that info.
Must efficient unit will draw about 10 Amps. that mean 1200 watts
on 120 volts. for AC unit #14 wire with max length of 10 feet above
that length you should and must go #12 wire. service for apx. 50 feet
if you run any AC on cord and wire or receptacle is getting warm
consider safety and install larger supply "IT is a must"

"Tony Hwang" wrote in message
...
taxed and spent wrote:
"Ed Pawlowski" wrote in message
...
On 6/23/2015 1:55 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:

Ohm's law is very simple to understand. If you used extension cord of
proper size(capacity to carry the current without too much voltage
drop)
There shouldn't be a problem. a/c or freezer has motor which draws peak
current when it starts due to it's characteristics of inductive load)
Undersized cord is even fire hazard.

Ohm's law states that the current through a conductor between two points
is directly proportional to the potential difference across the two
points. Introducing the constant of proportionality, the resistance, one
arrives at the usual mathematical equation that describes this
relationship

Why would you have to "introduce" resistance to Ohm's law to arrive at
Ohm's
law?


'Cos unit of resistance is Mr. Ohm?

You miss my point. Ohm's law relates voltage, current, and resistance. You
don't need to "introduce" resistance to a law that already includes
resistance.

"tony944" wrote in message
...

not advisable. The issue should be much less with a modern fridge
or freezer. They typically only pull ~90W or so. Bottom line you
want to use a short extension cord that is heavy enough for the load.

90 watts where the heck did you get that info.
Must efficient unit will draw about 10 Amps. that mean 1200 watts
on 120 volts. for AC unit #14 wire with max length of 10 feet above
that length you should and must go #12 wire. service for apx. 50 feet
if you run any AC on cord and wire or receptacle is getting warm
consider safety and install larger supply "IT is a must"

I think that 90 watts is for a modern refrigerator.

I think we all agree that extension cords are ok, but they should be made
out of wire that is large enough so the voltage drop is very low. The
longer the cord, the larger the wire.
Wire less than about # 14 should not be used on high current loads at any
length.

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 4:59:38 PM UTC-4, tony944 wrote:
"trader_4" wrote in message
...

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 9:44:04 AM UTC-4, Dennis Osgood wrote:
replying to hr(bob) , Dennis Osgood wrote:
hrhofmann wrote:

Yeah - They're worried you would use a lamp cord type extension cord,
or one of those kight-weight orange or green outdoor extension cords
that are fine for small leafb;lowers, but not much else. If you gat
an extension cord with 14 ga wire, it should be ok, a 12 gauge wire
would be better. If it is only 10 feet or so long, it is not any
different than if the freezer was on a circuit that was 10 ft feet
farther from the circuit breaker or fuse box. Make sure the prongs
and the female end of the extension cord are secure, ir, the mating
plugs are making good contact to eliinate any overrrrrheating at the
plug-in points. Then check it out once in a while to see that things
are still fine.
Good idea to ask, you are on the right track.
B..ob Hofmann



I had an 11,000 BTU window air conditioner hooked to a 100 ft extension
cord because I needed an additional 4-5 feet of cord. The a/c was not
working well at all. An electrician told me that the extension cord was
the problem. Get rid of the cord (or shorten it considerably to only what
I needed) and it will work. I did, and it worked great.

Just last week my daughter said that her new freezer was not freezing --
her food was thawed out but still cold enough to cook. I looked at the
freezer and her husband had hooked a 100 ft extension cord to the freezer
because the freezer cord was 2 ft too short. I remembered what the
electrician said about my a/c unit, and we moved the freezer to a new
outlet. The food was frozen in just a few hours.

(

I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.

--

You've identified the problem, voltage drop. The conductors have
to be sized for the load. An 11,000 BTU AC is a large load. It
also has a large initial startup current. That current over a
100 ft 16 gauge extension has considerable voltage drop. If the
extension cord was 10 or 12 gauge, it would work, but it's still
not advisable. The issue should be much less with a modern fridge
or freezer. They typically only pull ~90W or so. Bottom line you
want to use a short extension cord that is heavy enough for the load.

90 watts where the heck did you get that info.

It's widely available, just look. That's what refrigerators
and freezers made in the last decade or so consume.

Must efficient unit will draw about 10 Amps. that mean 1200 watts
on 120 volts.

Are you thinking AC instead of fridge/freezer? I said fridge/freezer
pulls 90W and that an 11,000 BTU AC is a "large load".

On 6/23/2015 5:19 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:


I think that 90 watts is for a modern refrigerator.

I think we all agree that extension cords are ok, but they should be made
out of wire that is large enough so the voltage drop is very low. The
longer the cord, the larger the wire.
Wire less than about # 14 should not be used on high current loads at any
length.


90W is for a very old fridge. I just looked at the specs of a 33 cu ft
side by side and it is 8.5A an 18 cu ft top freezer was 6A

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 6:30:08 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 6/23/2015 5:19 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:


I think that 90 watts is for a modern refrigerator.

I think we all agree that extension cords are ok, but they should be made
out of wire that is large enough so the voltage drop is very low. The
longer the cord, the larger the wire.
Wire less than about # 14 should not be used on high current loads at any
length.


90W is for a very old fridge. I just looked at the specs of a 33 cu ft
side by side and it is 8.5A an 18 cu ft top freezer was 6A

No, you have it backwards. Fridges haven't gone up in power, they
went way down. I replaced my 20 year old one that was using about
250W with a side by side that's bigger, think it's 31 cu ft, the new
one uses 90W. The 8.5A that you're looking at may be the max,
instantaneous startup current. I've looked at a new freezer too
during Sandy with my KillaWatt meter. It pulled ~350 W for a few
seconds, then quickly started declining. After a couple mins, it
was down to ~100W.

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 6:37:55 PM UTC-4, trader_4 wrote:
On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 6:30:08 PM UTC-4, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 6/23/2015 5:19 PM, Ralph Mowery wrote:


I think that 90 watts is for a modern refrigerator.

I think we all agree that extension cords are ok, but they should be made
out of wire that is large enough so the voltage drop is very low. The
longer the cord, the larger the wire.
Wire less than about # 14 should not be used on high current loads at any
length.


90W is for a very old fridge. I just looked at the specs of a 33 cu ft
side by side and it is 8.5A an 18 cu ft top freezer was 6A

No, you have it backwards. Fridges haven't gone up in power, they
went way down. I replaced my 20 year old one that was using about
250W with a side by side that's bigger, think it's 31 cu ft, the new
one uses 90W. The 8.5A that you're looking at may be the max,
instantaneous startup current. I've looked at a new freezer too
during Sandy with my KillaWatt meter. It pulled ~350 W for a few
seconds, then quickly started declining. After a couple mins, it
was down to ~100W.

Thinking about it some more, that 8.5A is probably due to the defrost
heater that only comes on once a day? That would give you a 1000W heater, which seems reasonable.

On Sunday, September 21, 2008 at 6:50:09 AM UTC-5, RBM wrote:
wrote in message
...
Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

Keep the cord as short as possible, with conductors equal to or larger than
the circuit conductors. Appliance extension cords are made in lengths up to
9'

What he said. The big box stores have them. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Extension Monster

On Saturday, September 20, 2008 at 11:12:49 PM UTC-5, ransley wrote:
On Sep 20, 10:55*pm, wrote:
Hello,

* * * * I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

7 cu ft, what does it pull 100 watts? Likely only 100- 150, Gee maybe
20 ga would work.

It's not the running current draw that's of concern, it's LRA or locked rotor amps which is the current the compressor will pull when the system pressure is not equalized and the compressor can't start. If the power blinks or you flipped a breaker on and off for the freezer circuit, you'll hear a hum and a click coming from the freezer which is the high temperature and overload switch inside the compressor snapping off. Many overload switches are inside the terminal cover of small compressors and can be replaced if the contacts erode away. The overload may click several times before the compressor will restart. The LRA for a typical large chest freezer can be 12 amps or more. The electrical specifications for voltage, RLA (run load amps) and LRA (locked rotor amps) are on a sticker that has the model number printed on it which is located inside or outside of the freezer. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Frozen Monster