On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 10:11:21 AM UTC-5, ItsJoanNotJoann wrote:
On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 8:44:04 AM UTC-5, Dennis Osgood wrote:

replying to hr(bob) , Dennis Osgood wrote:
hrhofmann wrote:

You think old Bob will show up to read your reply to
his SEVEN YEAR OLD post????

Hey, I missed looking at the date of the OP again until I saw that I had posted answers back in 08. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Time Traveling Monster

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 3:21:44 PM UTC-5, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 13:07:11 -0700 (PDT), ItsJoanNotJoann
wrote:

On Tuesday, June 23, 2015 at 11:19:59 AM UTC-5, Oren wrote:

On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 08:11:18 -0700 (PDT), ItsJoanNotJoann
wrote:


You think old Bob will show up to read your reply to
his SEVEN YEAR OLD post????


Why not? Robert is still posting here, right?


Not unless he's posting under another name, he's not.

Prove it.


I looked at his posting history for the name he used 7 years
ago and there is NOTHING from him since using this particular
name. He might well still be posting but under another name.

H. R. (Bob) Hofmann at att.net is alive and thriving on this group. My advice in 2008 is still good, and it's great to read that someone read my post and it actually worked out well for them.

Now, my current project is planning on putting ceramic tile down on a small full bathroom floor, and convincing my wife that I can do it and not call in someone else.

On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 12:05:33 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 6/23/2015 9:44 AM, Dennis Osgood wrote:

I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me why
the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.


The size of the wire is more important than the length. If you used a
3' cord with 18 gauge wire it would be more of a problem than 100 foot
cord with #10 wire. Think of the wire as a pipe. You can only get so
much juice through it so bigger is better.
Except the water analogy for electricity doesn't hold water, when you
stretch it far enough. A 1 foot chunk of #18 cord could actually
provide LESS voltage drop than 100 feet of heavier cable.

The resistance of 1 foot of #18 is roughly the same as 2.5 feet of
#14 or 6.4 feet of #10 - so 100 feet of #10 will definitely drop more
voltage than 3 feet of #18 - as long as the current draw does not
excede the current carrying capacity of the #18

With stranded cord, that is about2-3 amps for the #18 cabtire or zip
cord - or 9-10 amps for solid wire, or about 5 amps for 7 strand

On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 14:15:53 -0400, Stormin Mormon
wrote:

On 6/23/2015 1:55 PM, Tony Hwang wrote:
Ohm's law is very simple to understand. If you used extension cord of
proper size(capacity to carry the current without too much voltage drop)
There shouldn't be a problem. a/c or freezer has motor which draws peak
current when it starts due to it's characteristics of inductive load)
Undersized cord is even fire hazard.

Wonderful! I've got a compressor that dosn't run on
the extension cord. I've been waiting for someone to
use ohms law and help me understand.

You da man!


-
.
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
. www.lds.org
.
.
I had a table saw that would blow the 15 amp fuse every time I
started it plugged directly into the wall, but would start and run
with no problem on a 25 foot #14 extension cord. It was an
induction/repulsion motor. The cord resistance dropped the starting
current just enough to save the fuse.

wrote in message
...
On Tue, 23 Jun 2015 12:05:33 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 6/23/2015 9:44 AM, Dennis Osgood wrote:

I have read many articles both pro and con about voltage drops in
extension cords. Apparently not everyone agrees with the established
theories of electrical engineering. The electrician never did tell me
why
the extension cord was the problem. All I know is that removing the
extension cord caused both the a/c and the freezer to work well.


The size of the wire is more important than the length. If you used a
3' cord with 18 gauge wire it would be more of a problem than 100 foot
cord with #10 wire. Think of the wire as a pipe. You can only get so
much juice through it so bigger is better.
Except the water analogy for electricity doesn't hold water, when you
stretch it far enough. A 1 foot chunk of #18 cord could actually
provide LESS voltage drop than 100 feet of heavier cable.

Of course the analogy holds. A 1 foot chunk of 1 inch pipe could actually
provide LESS pressure drop than 100 feet of larger pipe.

On 06/23/2015 04:48 PM, trader_4 wrote:

[snip]


Are you thinking AC instead of fridge/freezer? I said fridge/freezer
pulls 90W and that an 11,000 BTU AC is a "large load".


The 5000 BTU AC I was using on my generator after last month's tornado
was drawing about 4A.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"The history on intellectual progress is written in the lives of
infidels." -- Robert Green Ingersoll (1833-1899),

On 06/23/2015 05:30 PM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

[snip]


90W is for a very old fridge. I just looked at the specs of a 33 cu ft
side by side and it is 8.5A an 18 cu ft top freezer was 6A


My refrigerator (ordinary size side-by-side) is about 6 years old. When
I first got it running after the power outage it was drawing about 1A.
Power had been out about 15 hours, so I'd expect the compressor would be
running then.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"The history on intellectual progress is written in the lives of
infidels." -- Robert Green Ingersoll (1833-1899),

"Ralph Mowery" wrote:
"tony944" wrote in message
...

not advisable. The issue should be much less with a modern fridge
or freezer. They typically only pull ~90W or so. Bottom line you
want to use a short extension cord that is heavy enough for the load.

90 watts where the heck did you get that info.
Must efficient unit will draw about 10 Amps. that mean 1200 watts
on 120 volts. for AC unit #14 wire with max length of 10 feet above
that length you should and must go #12 wire. service for apx. 50 feet
if you run any AC on cord and wire or receptacle is getting warm
consider safety and install larger supply "IT is a must"

I think that 90 watts is for a modern refrigerator.

I think we all agree that extension cords are ok, but they should be made
out of wire that is large enough so the voltage drop is very low. The
longer the cord, the larger the wire.
Wire less than about # 14 should not be used on high current loads at any
length.

You also should know what defrost current is. My 20 year fridge takes about
12 amps.

I use a 100 foot 14 gauge cord for small camper at camp. It has a 5kbtu air
conditioner. Seems to run fine.

My compressor didn't start in the garage using Micky mouse hookup. I now
use the wired receptacles using 10 gauge, 85 foot.

Greg

On Thursday, June 25, 2015 at 11:17:16 PM UTC-5, Gz wrote:
"Ralph Mowery" wrote:
"tony944" wrote in message
...

not advisable. The issue should be much less with a modern fridge
or freezer. They typically only pull ~90W or so. Bottom line you
want to use a short extension cord that is heavy enough for the load.

90 watts where the heck did you get that info.
Must efficient unit will draw about 10 Amps. that mean 1200 watts
on 120 volts. for AC unit #14 wire with max length of 10 feet above
that length you should and must go #12 wire. service for apx. 50 feet
if you run any AC on cord and wire or receptacle is getting warm
consider safety and install larger supply "IT is a must"

I think that 90 watts is for a modern refrigerator.

I think we all agree that extension cords are ok, but they should be made
out of wire that is large enough so the voltage drop is very low. The
longer the cord, the larger the wire.
Wire less than about # 14 should not be used on high current loads at any
length.

You also should know what defrost current is. My 20 year fridge takes about
12 amps.

I use a 100 foot 14 gauge cord for small camper at camp. It has a 5kbtu air
conditioner. Seems to run fine.

My compressor didn't start in the garage using Micky mouse hookup. I now
use the wired receptacles using 10 gauge, 85 foot.

Greg

Suggestion: use the compressor set-up when camping...100' of #14 is foolish to use, whether it works or not!

bob_villa wrote:
On Thursday, June 25, 2015 at 11:17:16 PM UTC-5, Gz wrote:
"Ralph Mowery" wrote:
"tony944" wrote in message
...

not advisable. The issue should be much less with a modern fridge
or freezer. They typically only pull ~90W or so. Bottom line you
want to use a short extension cord that is heavy enough for the load.

90 watts where the heck did you get that info.
Must efficient unit will draw about 10 Amps. that mean 1200 watts
on 120 volts. for AC unit #14 wire with max length of 10 feet above
that length you should and must go #12 wire. service for apx. 50 feet
if you run any AC on cord and wire or receptacle is getting warm
consider safety and install larger supply "IT is a must"

I think that 90 watts is for a modern refrigerator.

I think we all agree that extension cords are ok, but they should be made
out of wire that is large enough so the voltage drop is very low. The
longer the cord, the larger the wire.
Wire less than about # 14 should not be used on high current loads at any
length.

You also should know what defrost current is. My 20 year fridge takes about
12 amps.

I use a 100 foot 14 gauge cord for small camper at camp. It has a 5kbtu air
conditioner. Seems to run fine.

My compressor didn't start in the garage using Micky mouse hookup. I now
use the wired receptacles using 10 gauge, 85 foot.

Greg

Suggestion: use the compressor set-up when camping...100' of #14 is
foolish to use, whether it works or not!

I bought the extension for power failures LOL I always keep it handy. One
off my garage is 100 foot 12 gauge. I thought it migh have been priced
wrong when I paid $25 at my local hardware.

Greg

On 6/29/2015 3:47 AM, gregz wrote:


I bought the extension for power failures LOL I always keep it handy. One
off my garage is 100 foot 12 gauge. I thought it migh have been priced
wrong when I paid $25 at my local hardware.

Greg


How does it work during a power failure? Is it pre-charged? I imagine
you plug it into itself so the electricity does not leak out.

On 6/29/2015 11:31 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 6/29/2015 3:47 AM, gregz wrote:


I bought the extension for power failures LOL I always keep it handy. One
off my garage is 100 foot 12 gauge. I thought it migh have been priced
wrong when I paid $25 at my local hardware.

Greg


How does it work during a power failure? Is it pre-charged? I imagine
you plug it into itself so the electricity does not leak out.

This reply has totally got to be deserving of some
kind of award. I've seldom been so inspired.

-
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Tuesday, June 30, 2015 at 8:17:17 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/29/2015 11:31 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 6/29/2015 3:47 AM, gregz wrote:


I bought the extension for power failures LOL I always keep it handy. One
off my garage is 100 foot 12 gauge. I thought it migh have been priced
wrong when I paid $25 at my local hardware.

Greg


How does it work during a power failure? Is it pre-charged? I imagine
you plug it into itself so the electricity does not leak out.

This reply has totally got to be deserving of some
kind of award. I've seldom been so inspired.

-

I thought every one knew that if you quickly snatch the plug end of an extension out of a wall receptacle then quickly plug it into the socket end of the extension cord, electricity will be trapped in the cord as it circles round and round inside the cord. You must be very quick or the electricity will escape. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Electric Monster

On Wed, 1 Jul 2015 00:21:47 -0700 (PDT), Uncle Monster
wrote:

On Tuesday, June 30, 2015 at 8:17:17 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 6/29/2015 11:31 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:
On 6/29/2015 3:47 AM, gregz wrote:


I bought the extension for power failures LOL I always keep it handy. One
off my garage is 100 foot 12 gauge. I thought it migh have been priced
wrong when I paid $25 at my local hardware.

Greg


How does it work during a power failure? Is it pre-charged? I imagine
you plug it into itself so the electricity does not leak out.

This reply has totally got to be deserving of some
kind of award. I've seldom been so inspired.

-

I thought every one knew that if you quickly snatch the plug end of an extension out of a wall receptacle then quickly plug it into the socket end of the extension cord, electricity will be trapped in the cord as it circles round and round inside the cord. You must be very quick or the electricity will escape. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Electric Monster
That's why the brits, who wired with ring topology, always had
switches on their outlets to stop the leaks.
In north america we didn't need the switch because we didn't use ring
topology to wire our houses......

On Saturday, September 20, 2008 at 10:55:14 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

It's best to have a dedicated circuit installed. I had a customer last summer that lost hundreds of dollars worth of frozen seafood because the receptacle in the garage was connected to a GFCI in the upstairs bathroom that was tripped. They had no idea until it was too late. If your freezer is fairly close to your electrical panel it shouldn't be too expensive to have an electrician install a new circuit for you.


http://www.iwireelectricservice.com/

On 7/5/2015 6:56 PM, wrote:


It's best to have a dedicated circuit installed. I had a customer last summer that lost hundreds of dollars worth of frozen seafood because the receptacle in the garage was connected to a GFCI in the upstairs bathroom that was tripped. They had no idea until it was too late. If your freezer is fairly close to your electrical panel it shouldn't be too expensive to have an electrician install a new circuit for you.

I'm not sure what the present code is, but a fridge or freezer should
not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
in the kitchen though.

On Sun, 05 Jul 2015 20:22:47 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 7/5/2015 6:56 PM, wrote:


It's best to have a dedicated circuit installed. I had a customer last summer that lost hundreds of dollars worth of frozen seafood because the receptacle in the garage was connected to a GFCI in the upstairs bathroom that was tripped. They had no idea until it was too late. If your freezer is fairly close to your electrical panel it shouldn't be too expensive to have an electrician install a new circuit for you.

I'm not sure what the present code is, but a fridge or freezer should
not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
in the kitchen though.
Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction

On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 7:45:52 PM UTC-5, wrote:
On Sun, 05 Jul 2015 20:22:47 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 7/5/2015 6:56 PM, wrote:


It's best to have a dedicated circuit installed. I had a customer last summer that lost hundreds of dollars worth of frozen seafood because the receptacle in the garage was connected to a GFCI in the upstairs bathroom that was tripped. They had no idea until it was too late. If your freezer is fairly close to your electrical panel it shouldn't be too expensive to have an electrician install a new circuit for you.

I'm not sure what the present code is, but a fridge or freezer should
not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
in the kitchen though.
Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
^^^^^^^^^

What a load of crap. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Electric Monster

On 7/6/2015 3:46 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:
Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
^^^^^^^^^

What a load of crap. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Electric Monster


Bet that made a lot of electricians mess?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Monday, July 6, 2015 at 7:50:56 AM UTC-5, Stormin Mormon wrote:
On 7/6/2015 3:46 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:
Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
^^^^^^^^^

What a load of crap. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Electric Monster


Bet that made a lot of electricians mess?

--
.

It must really be painful to poop out a circuit. O_o

[8~{} Uncle Circuit Monster

On 7/6/2015 9:00 AM, Uncle Monster wrote:
Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction
What a load of crap. ^_^

[8~{} Uncle Electric Monster

Bet that made a lot of electricians mess?

It must really be painful to poop out a circuit. O_o

[8~{} Uncle Circuit Monster


You seen the new rap group with dancing that does
electrical work? They call them selves the circuit
breakdancers.

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

wrote in message
...
On Sun, 05 Jul 2015 20:22:47 -0400, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

On 7/5/2015 6:56 PM, wrote:


It's best to have a dedicated circuit installed. I had a customer last
summer that lost hundreds of dollars worth of frozen seafood because the
receptacle in the garage was connected to a GFCI in the upstairs bathroom
that was tripped. They had no idea until it was too late. If your freezer is
fairly close to your electrical panel it shouldn't be too expensive to have
an electrician install a new circuit for you.

I'm not sure what the present code is, but a fridge or freezer should
not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
in the kitchen though.
Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction

"Deficated" circuits aren't worth $hit!!! (You get my vote for funniest
typo of the month.)

--
Bobby G.

On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 7:45:52 PM UTC-5, wrote:

I'm not sure what the present code is, but a fridge or freezer should
not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
in the kitchen though.
Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction

....you rang my bell, *DUNG*!

On 7/7/2015 3:25 AM, Robert Green wrote:
I'm not sure what the present code is, but a fridge or freezer should
not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
in the kitchen though.
Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction

"Deficated" circuits aren't worth $hit!!! (You get my vote for funniest
typo of the month.)

--
Bobby G.



I'm still laughing, that was so furry.


--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On 07/07/2015 06:35 AM, bob_villa wrote:
On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 7:45:52 PM UTC-5, wrote:

I'm not sure what the present code is, but a fridge or freezer should
not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
in the kitchen though.
Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction

...you rang my bell, *DUNG*!


"What's brown and sounds like a bell?"

--
"The history on intellectual progress is written in the lives of
infidels." -- Robert Green Ingersoll (1833-1899),

wrote:
On Saturday, September 20, 2008 at 10:55:14 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

It's best to have a dedicated circuit installed. I had a customer last
summer that lost hundreds of dollars worth of frozen seafood because the
receptacle in the garage was connected to a GFCI in the upstairs bathroom
that was tripped. They had no idea until it was too late. If your freezer
is fairly close to your electrical panel it shouldn't be too expensive to
have an electrician install a new circuit for you.


http://www.iwireelectricservice.com/

Bathroom should be on dedicated line..

Greg

On 7/8/2015 12:25 AM, gregz wrote:
wrote:
On Saturday, September 20, 2008 at 10:55:14 PM UTC-5, wrote:
Hello,

I just purchased a 7 CFT Magic Chef Freezer from the Home
Depot. The place that I want to place it is about 6 feet from the
nearest electrical outlet. Reading the manual it states not to use
extension cords of any kind. Is the reason they put this on for fear
the consumer will try to use a standard electric cord and cause a fire
or is it something else? I plan on getting a 15A with a 14 gauge or 12
gauge wire. The line that it is attached to goes to a 15 amp circuit
and seeing that it hasn't tripped he line while it is running I should
be ok. Any help would be appreciated.

Thanks,
Nick

It's best to have a dedicated circuit installed. I had a customer last
summer that lost hundreds of dollars worth of frozen seafood because the
receptacle in the garage was connected to a GFCI in the upstairs bathroom
that was tripped. They had no idea until it was too late. If your freezer
is fairly close to your electrical panel it shouldn't be too expensive to
have an electrician install a new circuit for you.


http://www.iwireelectricservice.com/

Bathroom should be on dedicated line..

Greg


The outdoor receptacle on the deck off of the kichen is on the
downstairs bathroom GFCI. Don't recall how I found out, but I've not
tripped it in 30 years.

On 7/8/2015 12:25 AM, gregz wrote:
It's best to have a dedicated circuit installed. I had a customer last
summer that lost hundreds of dollars worth of frozen seafood because the
receptacle in the garage was connected to a GFCI in the upstairs bathroom
that was tripped. They had no idea until it was too late. If your freezer
is fairly close to your electrical panel it shouldn't be too expensive to
have an electrician install a new circuit for you.


http://www.iwireelectricservice.com/

Bathroom should be on dedicated line..

Greg


With the recent thread, should that be a
deficated line?

--
..
Christopher A. Young
learn more about Jesus
.. www.lds.org
..
..

On Tuesday, July 7, 2015 at 11:40:09 AM UTC-5, hah wrote:
On 07/07/2015 06:35 AM, bob_villa wrote:
On Sunday, July 5, 2015 at 7:45:52 PM UTC-5, wrote:

I'm not sure what the present code is, but a fridge or freezer should
not be on a GFCI for that reason, I understand than now it is required
in the kitchen though.
Deficated circuit for refrig is required here in new construction

...you rang my bell, *DUNG*!


"What's brown and sounds like a bell?"

Yes, Monty Python!

On 07/08/2015 12:19 AM, Ed Pawlowski wrote:

[snip]


The outdoor receptacle on the deck off of the kichen is on the
downstairs bathroom GFCI. Don't recall how I found out, but I've not
tripped it in 30 years.

The receptacle behind my refrigerator is almost on a dedicated circuit.
The bathroom light is on it too. I guess some electrician did it to
avoid using more wire than necessary, as the bathroom is between panel
and kitchen.

--
Mark Lloyd
http://notstupid.us/

"The intelligent man portions his belief to the evidence" -- Hume

replying to hr(bob) hofmann, CHARLENE M HOWLETT wrote:
would it be safe? the extension cord would be running from my house outside
outlet to the barn. it might be a shorter distance, i havent measured it, but
what if it is between the 25-50 foot

--
for full context, visit https://www.homeownershub.com/mainte...er-332233-.htm