Hello!

First off, before everyone kneejerks a response, let me point out again
that this is a gas stove

Ok, so we have a brand new Maytag gas stove sitting in the kitchen.
Hooked up to gas just fine, but the nearest electrical outlet is about
8" too short. This is a 110 line for running the timers and igniters.

The Borg installer said that an extension cord is a really really bad
idea. Now, I fiddle with low-volt DC circuits a lot, so my guess is
that as long as

1) the extension cord's wire gauge meets or exceeds the actual cord
attached to the stove
2) it is a 3-prong grounded cord
3) it doesn't exceed more than 6 feet in length
4) the connection between the stove's plug and the extension cord's
socket is sufficiently high up off the ground to avoid fluid spills.

I should be ok anyways, right? I can't think of anything different
between AC and DC that would matter in this context, but feel free to
enlighten me, please.

Side question: I have many more questions. Would it be preferrable to
the denizens of this newsgroup for me to post them in one topic, or in
seperate topics? Just trying to fit in and not ruffle any feathers,
thanks.

TIA

-phaeton

There may be code-compliance issues. Anyhow, having a connection to an
extension-cord behind an appliance can allow bad things to happen; for
instance, as a result of any activity that might cause plug to
partially retract.

Don't get hung up on "low-voltage" here, either. Most electrocutions
occur with 110 v ac.

To me, it's a no-brainer: either install a new outlet within reach, or
replace cord with one that will reach, and allow sufficient slack for
normal service activities.

J

"phaeton" wrote in message
Ok, so we have a brand new Maytag gas stove sitting in the kitchen.
Hooked up to gas just fine, but the nearest electrical outlet is about
8" too short. This is a 110 line for running the timers and igniters.

The Borg installer said that an extension cord is a really really bad
idea.

I guess you can technically say any extension cord as a bad idea. What
would I do? I'd use a very short heavy duty cord. Another option is to
replace the existing wire right from the stove. What may be simple also,
depending on the location and what you have to take apart for access.

The most a gas stove is going to draw is a few amps for an ignitor and a 40
watt bulb in the oven.





Side question: I have many more questions. Would it be preferrable to
the denizens of this newsgroup for me to post them in one topic, or in
seperate topics? Just trying to fit in and not ruffle any feathers,
thanks.

You may get better responses if you group them by topic. If a subject is of
no interest to me, or a subject I have no knowledge of (and don't care
about) I'll just skip the posting. I may happen to have the best answer for
question #3 that I did not see though, in a large group. Overall, this is a
pretty good group of people with a lot of knowledge.

Low-voltage

In my case, 9V or 18V is mostly what I mess with, and that's what I
considered "low voltage". I am aware of the dangers of 110 v ac, and
in fact it makes me a little nervous. Maybe that's bad.

Install a new outlet

That's the ultimate solution, sure. I've never done it before and it's
probably not something I should do w/o experienced help or guidance.
I'm sure it's possible to do this w/o tearing the wall all to **** but
I've seen a lot of examples where exactly that is what happened.

install a new cord

I was wondering about that. I haven't measured the length of the cord
on the stove itself, but I've seen appliance cords for various things
at Home Depot. $5 says that if i have to open the back of the stove
the warranty will go bye bye.

Thanks for the reply..

You may get better responses if you group them by topic.

I see ;-). Most of my questions have little to do with each other, so
they'd all be separate. I'll try to space them out (chronologically)
so that I don't dogpile the newsgroup.

Overall, this is a pretty good group of people with a lot of knowledge.

Absolutely. I dig around the Google archives a lot, and the S/N ratio
and level of helpful responses is amazing. I've posted a number of
questions already and gotten a lot of friendly help thus far, and
haven't been flamed yet. You've set me straight a couple of times too,
Edwin.

I'm pretty DIY with a lot of stuff- automobiles, electronics, music,
computers, etc. For some reason, "home repair" is just not something
that clicks with me the same way that "being mechanically inclined"
does, even though you'd think it should. Now, suddenly I'm a home
owner. Lots of minor stuff I'm ok with, but for all intents and
purposes, I'm a total n00b at this. I just bought my first hammer last
weekend at age 31. It's embarassing- I probably feel the same way that
illiterate adults feel when learning to read for the first time.

On the other hand, I don't want to pay someone to do something if I
could do it myself.

Ok... thanks for the tips so far, I'm going to stop gushing now ;-)

(sorry).

....
: I guess you can technically say any extension cord as a bad
idea. What
: would I do? I'd use a very short heavy duty cord. Another
option is to
: replace the existing wire right from the stove. What may be
simple also,
: depending on the location and what you have to take apart for
access.
=== Agreed. For 8 inches short, there's no good reason to be
spending a lot of money. A Heavy duty extension cord, such as
are sold for air conditioners, should make a great solution. I
don't think they're available any shorter than 3 feet, but that
should allow for the cord to be routed reasonably, too.
the "problem" is that codes usually don't allow for an
extension cord to be used as a "permanent" wiring. So,
technically, a longer cord is required. Or move the outlet. BUT
.... I have had reason to have full house inspections done in the
last couple of years and the a/c cord for the stove was NEVER a
concern in any way. They both looked at it, one touched it
gently, and they both moved on. So, there's "shoulda" and
reality. Reality is, it's as protected behind the stove as is
the stove cord, and no more likely to be damaged.
:
: The most a gas stove is going to draw is a few amps for an
ignitor and a 40
: watt bulb in the oven.
:
:
:
:
:
: Side question: I have many more questions. Would it be
preferrable to
: the denizens of this newsgroup for me to post them in one
topic, or in
: seperate topics? Just trying to fit in and not ruffle any
feathers,
: thanks.
=== Yes, they should be grouped by topics at least. I'ts best
to keep each one in its own thread.

HTH,

Pop

:
: You may get better responses if you group them by topic. If a
subject is of
: no interest to me, or a subject I have no knowledge of (and
don't care
: about) I'll just skip the posting. I may happen to have the
best answer for
: question #3 that I did not see though, in a large group.
Overall, this is a
: pretty good group of people with a lot of knowledge.
:
:

Look at "wiremold" for surface-mount outlet & wireway, for one. No
need to open the wall.

Big boxes carry all sorts of replacement appliance cords. Cheaper way
to go than the above, of course. Almost certainly, you get one a
couple feet longer than you have, open a small cover at the rear,
unscrew cable connections, then assembly is reverse of disassembly. At
worst, you deal with wire nuts, which would only be a problem if your
new cable had much larger conductors than the old.

I'm assuming you know how to properly connect something like a
low-power cord- good mechanical connection (screws, solder, or taped
wire-nuts), insulated, strain-relieved. Look for stuff like tattle-tale
tape that'd show a cover had been removed. Do the job properly and
fuhgeddaboudit, or ask a Borg person to show you on a floor-model
what's involved. (Or make the change.)

This is really no biggie.

Other questions, you really should group by topic. And prepare, soon,
to contribute with responses. :')

J

I'm assuming you know how to....


Yes, and I was assuming it'd be just a small cover and 3 screws or
nuts. Thenagain, sometimes you never know.

Other questions, you really should group by topic. And prepare, soon,
to contribute with responses. :')

Of course, but not until i know what i'm talking about

Thanks again. I think the new cord is the route i'll take here.

...
: I guess you can technically say any extension cord as a bad
idea. What
: would I do? I'd use a very short heavy duty cord. Another
option is to
: replace the existing wire right from the stove. What may be
simple also,
: depending on the location and what you have to take apart for
access.
=== Agreed. For 8 inches short, there's no good reason to be
spending a lot of money. A Heavy duty extension cord, such as

For 8" short, you ought to be able to just buy a
longer power cord for the appliance, shouldn't you?

phaeton wrote:
Hello!

....

Ok, so we have a brand new Maytag gas stove sitting in the kitchen.
Hooked up to gas just fine, but the nearest electrical outlet is about
8" too short. This is a 110 line for running the timers and igniters.

....

I would go for a new, longer cord on the stove. Get one from a real
electrical supply. You can unplug the one you have, remove it from the
stove and bring it in. Tell them you need one at least a foot longer. It
should be a very simple safe cheap job.

--
Joseph Meehan

Dia duit

On Thu, 22 Dec 2005 14:39:50 -0500, "Pop"
wrote:

...
: I guess you can technically say any extension cord as a bad
idea. What
: would I do? I'd use a very short heavy duty cord. Another
option is to
: replace the existing wire right from the stove. What may be
simple also,
: depending on the location and what you have to take apart for
access.
=== Agreed. For 8 inches short, there's no good reason to be
spending a lot of money. A Heavy duty extension cord, such as
are sold for air conditioners, should make a great solution. I
don't think they're available any shorter than 3 feet, but that

I have a 1 foot heavy duty extension cord. Got it at a yard sale. I
don't know how thick the wire itself is, because I've never looked
inside. But the rubber cord is thick.

I'm sure the guy made it from a cord with a plug, and a separate
one-outlet end, good quality.

This one is perfectly clean, but I think he was getting old, or had
moved.

should allow for the cord to be routed reasonably, too.

Remove NOPSAM to email me. Please let
me know if you have posted also.

replying to Joseph Meehan, Birdie wrote:
I think I should go this route ,

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ove-72465-.htm

replying to phaeton, Tony944 wrote:
Length of the cord is not much relevant as long is secure, however does you
stove have any receptacles on it for additional accessories that could make
difference in power require or needed.

--
posted from
http://www.homeownershub.com/mainten...ove-72465-.htm

On Sunday, June 5, 2016 at 2:44:05 PM UTC-4, Tony944 wrote:
replying to phaeton, Tony944 wrote:
Length of the cord is not much relevant as long is secure, however does you
stove have any receptacles on it for additional accessories that could make
difference in power require or needed.


Let's hope phaeton didn't wait 10 years for that answer!

On Sun, 5 Jun 2016 15:55:50 -0700 (PDT), DerbyDad03
wrote in


On Sunday, June 5, 2016 at 2:44:05 PM UTC-4, Tony944 wrote:
replying to phaeton, Tony944 wrote:
Length of the cord is not much relevant as long is secure, however does you
stove have any receptacles on it for additional accessories’ that could make
difference in power require or needed.


Let's hope phaeton didn't wait 10 years for that answer!

Anyone who posts through homeownershub deserves to wait 10 years.
--
Web based forums are like subscribing to 10 different newspapers
and having to visit 10 different news stands to pickup each one.
Email list-server groups and USENET are like having all of those
newspapers delivered to your door every morning.