I looked underneath today. There is a hose going to the garbage disposal
and another hose going to the faucet. There is a wire going to an
electrical outlet. I'll look more later this week as I had to visit my
grandchildren tonight and didn't get back home till late.

Here is what the dishwasher looks like:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279233722/

When I take the kick plate off, I'll snap a picture and show you what that
"solonoid" looks like.

Donna


Hey that looks identical to the one I just yanked out of my place, the motor
died and the rest was in pretty sad shape, but the new one is very similar
and works great. At any rate I'm familiar with the innards. When you remove
the kick plate, you'll find adjustable screw feet and you should be able to
lower it down enough to get it to fit under the counter lip. The solenoid
valve will be right up front on the left side, mine is blue.

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" wrote in
message et...
On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 15:52:48 -0800 (PST), N8N wrote:
I still err on the side of too much PM because

PM?

preventative maintenance

On Feb 20, 2:07*am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
wrote:
On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 15:52:48 -0800 (PST), N8N wrote:
I still err on the side of too much PM because

PM?

Preventative Maintenance. or Project Management, depending on
context. Either one applies in my case

nate

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 17:31:43 -0600, jakdedert wrote:
This could turn into a whole new thread of major f*ckups that we learned
from....

So far, on my side of the story, the water heater, full of tepid water,
fell over, and the drain valve popped off spewing water about. I won't soon
forget that! The garage still stinks of smelly carpet!

The replacement of the water heater seems to have clogged all the faucets
(easy to clean), showerheads (even easier to clean), tub (still clogged),
and maybe even the dishwasher (work in progress).

I'm not sure *where* the sand came from but it's clearly in all the faucets
so I guess we kicked it loose somehow in the water heater removal and
replacement process.

Anyway, now it's time to "remove" the dishwasher, if I can.
Does it look like it can be removed from these pictures taken today?

Counter Top:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Latch:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Bottom Right:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Bottom Left:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Do you think this dishwasher can be removed without breaking the counter
tile?

Donna

On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 11:37:11 +1100, Only Just wrote:
Any good installation of an appliance like a dishwasher
should have a filter screen / rubber washer fitted to the hose fitting to
the tap that controls the water to the appliance

Hi Only Just,

Another great confidence booster!

Given that wonderful suggestion, I snapped some more pics, just now, of
under the sink where the dishwasher water seems to be coming from instead
of looking under the "kickplate" where the dangerous-looking wires are.

It looks like a wire and two hoses come out of the dishwasher:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

The white hose seems to go to the garbage disposal
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

The steel hose seems to come from the (badly corroded) hot water input:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Something, I'm not sure why there are three hoses, goes into the sink:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Does something here look like what you are describing might be clogged?
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Donna

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 17:18:06 -0800 (PST), wrote:
I just installed a couple dishwashers, one for us and one for a
friend, and one for a friend, no screen washers,,,,,,,,,

Hi Hallerb,
I'm sorry I didn't see this earlier. I'm so confused with this discussion
as to where to post.

I hope others can keep up as I read *everything* everyone says and try to
answser the questions so I can help myself and others can follow after
we're done so the advice is never wasted.

I took a bunch of pics of the dishwasher today and put them he
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

(Flicker apparently allows only 3 sets so I have to mix the dishwasher clog
with the tub clog which is, in a way, the same problem as it happened after
the water heater replacement).

I did do research on clogged dishwashers but it's hard to find anything
specific to the GE Nautilus.

This article says "unscrew the water inlet hose" to remove sediment:
http://www.rusticgirls.com/appliance...t-filling.html

This one says "debris" could be caught in the "spray arm":
http://www.mrappliance.com/expert/ma...shwashers.aspx

This one again points to the "filter" and "solonoid":
http://www.home-appliance-kitchen-ai...shwashers.html

This one suggests it might be the "float" that's clogged:
http://www.applianceandair.com/Dishw...er.html#nofill

I think what I'll do later today (I have the grandkids again) is take apart
the inlet line and the solonoid line if I can.

If I see sand in there, I'll know it's the problem!
Any other suggestions?

Donna

On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 07:48:20 GMT, James Sweet wrote:
Hey that looks identical to the one I just yanked out of my place
When you remove the kick plate, you'll find adjustable screw feet
The solenoid valve will be right up front on the left side, mine is blue.

Hi James,

You gave me the courage to tackle this maybe-clogged dishwasher:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Here's a pic, taken just now, with the "kick plate" removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279869546/

Are you suggesting I can remove that blue "solonoid" on the left side with
the brass pipe in it and that might be what's probably clogged?

Donna

On Feb 16, 6:12 pm, Franklin wrote:
On Mon 11 Feb 2008 18:32:20, Donna Ohl wrote:



On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 18:04:46 GMT, Franklin wrote:

Donna, is there a freeware engineering tool for designing domestic
hot water heaters. Maybe there is one which links into a
suppliers a bill of material parts systems or their inventory
system. That would be useful for all of us. Can you help us?

Hi Franklin,

Thanks for asking for help. I did some research just for you and I
think the closest I can find to help you in a freeware section
(since you are so well known from the freeware side) is the GAMA
Association of Applicance Manufacturers web site - open and
available to all.
http://www.gamanet.org

At that site, they provide links for both supplier and consumer
bill-of-material and inventory calculators, mostly for suppliers
who wish to design and deliver inventory to commercial and
consumer.

For example, here's their section on product certification:
http://www.gamanet.org/gama/inforesources.nsf/vAllDocs/
Product+Directories?OpenDocument

Here is their section on government affairs:
http://www.gamanet.org/gama/govtaffa....nsf/vAllDocs/
Current+Issues?OpenDocument

And, Franklin, here is their section on public information:
http://www.gamanet.org/gama/stats.nsf/vAllDocs/Public+
Information?OpenDocument

I've run a few more searches for you and this is the best they have
that I can find to help you but I will try to see if I can write a
PERL program that does the FHV and ER calculations I need.

You can rest assured Franklin that I will post the results (if
successful and meaningful) back to the group but first, I'm asking
the experts who know much more than I do about the implications of
the FHR and EF ratings because I want the program to be correct.
Don't you think that prudent?

As you know, I always help everyone I can and I always give back
more than ask for, and I summarize in the end so a newbie starts
off where we left ... so, you can rest assured, at least on the
water heater topic, that I will provide full telephone numbers,
part numbers, product specifications, prices installed, gotchas
(like mandatory replacement of flex pipes and $77 plumber's
inspection fees) and the like.

What else do you need Franklin?
Donna

Hello Donna, thank you for the information but I feel you have got the
wrong end of the stick. Oh dear, how silly of you. BOMP parts and
contact numbers can only be obtained for existing suppliers. I am
referring to the design of a complete new system. For that I was
wondering if you knew of a suitable CAD-CAM freeware application.

Or perhaps one of your friends in the groups you post your detailed and
painstaking posts might know? After all I think Bill would be pleased
to see the spirit of self-survival at work in the modern age if we were
all to design our own hot water systems. We could choose the amount of
certain types of metal to match our individual eco-preferences.

For instance, you probably like one metal but I like another. I think
it's all to do with our different respective star signs because they are
associated with different substances for jewels. And so, logic dictates
the answer that it must be the same for metals. You would design a hot
water system which minimized one metal and maximized another. I would
do so with different metals. Of course we would extend this to control
equipment and also to distribution equipment (I think Bill calls these
"pipes").

Oh Donna, you're such a great help. Our project is more assured of
success with such skills to hand. Can you let me have a link to a
freeware app which can do this. I mentioned my other requirements
earlier about linking in to BOMP and inventory. For now, accounts
receivable will have to wait as we are not apying anyone until we have
completed our first design. How's your own design coming on? You
certainly have amassed a lot of information about water heating and I am
sure we can assist anyone who is new at this.

For the same reason I do not think we should restrict ourselves only to
gas water heaters. Eco-friendliness must permit all fuels. I think we
will soon have a true winner on our hands.

Please let me know what freeare CADCAM you are using. My keyboard is
poised! Let's get started.

Whoooshhh!

In article , "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" wrote:
On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 07:48:20 GMT, James Sweet wrote:
Hey that looks identical to the one I just yanked out of my place
When you remove the kick plate, you'll find adjustable screw feet
The solenoid valve will be right up front on the left side, mine is blue.

Hi James,

You gave me the courage to tackle this maybe-clogged dishwasher:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Here's a pic, taken just now, with the "kick plate" removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279869546/

Are you suggesting I can remove that blue "solonoid" on the left side with
the brass pipe in it and that might be what's probably clogged?

Donna


I might first think about using a good shop vac and start sucking at the feed
from the water heater or main entrance. open all taps, and of course close
main valve. I think the line would have to reseparated at the tank. The
dishwasher fill would have to be activated to open valve.

??

greg

In article , (GregS) wrote:
In article , "Donna Ohl, Grady
Volunteer Coordinator" wrote:
On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 07:48:20 GMT, James Sweet wrote:
Hey that looks identical to the one I just yanked out of my place
When you remove the kick plate, you'll find adjustable screw feet
The solenoid valve will be right up front on the left side, mine is blue.

Hi James,

You gave me the courage to tackle this maybe-clogged dishwasher:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Here's a pic, taken just now, with the "kick plate" removed:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279869546/

Are you suggesting I can remove that blue "solonoid" on the left side with
the brass pipe in it and that might be what's probably clogged?

Donna


I might first think about using a good shop vac and start sucking at the feed
from the water heater or main entrance. open all taps, and of course close
main valve. I think the line would have to reseparated at the tank. The
dishwasher fill would have to be activated to open valve.

??

greg

Do one tap at a time, or valve.

greg

On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 16:51:51 GMT, GregS wrote:
I might first think about using a good shop vac and start sucking at the feed
from the water heater or main entrance.

Hi GregS,
Unfortunately, we do not have a "shop vac". My vacuum cleaner isn't likely
to do the job either ...

I will try tonight to remove the inlet water line if I can find where it
goes and to remove the solonoid to see if either have a screen.

If it's not that, then I'll look at the "float" and the "nozzle" wherever
they are, but first I'll try to see if it's the blue solonoid or the hidden
inlet screen if there is any.

Donna

On Feb 20, 12:05�pm, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
wrote:
On Wed, 20 Feb 2008 16:51:51 GMT, GregS wrote:
I might first think about using a good shop vac and start sucking at the feed
from the water heater or main entrance.

Hi GregS,
Unfortunately, we do not have a "shop vac". My vacuum cleaner isn't likely
to do the job either ...

I will try tonight to remove the inlet water line if I can find where it
goes and to remove the solonoid to see if either have a screen.

If it's not that, then I'll look at the "float" and the "nozzle" wherever
they are, but first I'll try to see if it's the blue solonoid or the hidden
inlet screen if there is any.

Donna

clog can be anywhere and is likely multiple locations.......

good luck and replace you galvanized ASAP the rough interior surface
of galvanized pipe leads to gunk accumulating and breaking lose
causing clogs of all types.

soleanoid valves are easy to replace but expensive

soleanoid valves are easy to replace but expensive


In the unlikely event that it needs it, she can have the solenoid from my
junk dishwasher, I haven't had a chance to haul it to the dump yet. I see
free dishwashers on craigslist all the time, most are made by just a few
different brands and have many parts in common.

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" wrote in
message ...
On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 17:31:43 -0600, jakdedert wrote:
This could turn into a whole new thread of major f*ckups that we learned
from....

So far, on my side of the story, the water heater, full of tepid water,
fell over, and the drain valve popped off spewing water about. I won't
soon
forget that! The garage still stinks of smelly carpet!

The replacement of the water heater seems to have clogged all the faucets
(easy to clean), showerheads (even easier to clean), tub (still clogged),
and maybe even the dishwasher (work in progress).

I'm not sure *where* the sand came from but it's clearly in all the
faucets
so I guess we kicked it loose somehow in the water heater removal and
replacement process.

Anyway, now it's time to "remove" the dishwasher, if I can.
Does it look like it can be removed from these pictures taken today?

Counter Top:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Latch:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Bottom Right:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Bottom Left:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Do you think this dishwasher can be removed without breaking the counter
tile?

Donna

You can only try to get it out but to avoid problems try clearing the hose
first then worry about pulling the dishwasher out from its location. It
always annoyed me when I had to remove them from the benches for servicing
when I did it for a living as kitchen builders seem to always work to very
close fitting making it nearly impossible to remove and that is when it is
all built as a full unit. They never allow for variations including putting
down a new floor or replacing the unit whereas the new unit is usually a
different size, cupboards can easily be built up or facias placed in but
removing tops and cupboards is more difficult and expensive. At least it
looks easier for you as you have a level tile floor which will be easy to
slide it on and not damaged as easily.
Good luck and waiting for the result.
Just.

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" wrote:

On Tue, 19 Feb 2008 17:31:43 -0600, jakdedert wrote:
This could turn into a whole new thread of major f*ckups that we learned
from....

So far, on my side of the story, the water heater, full of tepid water,
fell over, and the drain valve popped off spewing water about. I won't soon
forget that! The garage still stinks of smelly carpet!

The replacement of the water heater seems to have clogged all the faucets
(easy to clean), showerheads (even easier to clean), tub (still clogged),
and maybe even the dishwasher (work in progress).

I'm not sure *where* the sand came from but it's clearly in all the faucets
so I guess we kicked it loose somehow in the water heater removal and
replacement process.

Anyway, now it's time to "remove" the dishwasher, if I can.
Does it look like it can be removed from these pictures taken today?

Counter Top:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Latch:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Bottom Right:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Bottom Left:
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaoh...7603947125744/

Do you think this dishwasher can be removed without breaking the counter
tile?

Donna


I always open an outside faucet wide open for about five minutes any
time the water is turned off to blow as much crap out of the lines
before using anything inside the house.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 01:41:13 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
I always open an outside faucet wide open for about five minutes any
time the water is turned off to blow as much crap out of the lines
before using anything inside the house.

Hi Michael,
This is a GREAT idea! (if it works).

What I don't get is WHY there was all that sandy stuff after I replaced my
wagter heater. If anything, there should be LESS sediment in the lines, not
more (way more).

Where did all that sandy sediment that clogged every single faucet in our
tiny house come from?

Is this common that sediment blocks everything in one quick pass after
replacing a water heater?

If so, why did NONE of the tutorials I read mention that simple hint you
just gave us?

Donna

On Feb 21, 2:20�am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"
wrote:
On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 01:41:13 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
� �I always open an outside faucet wide open for about five minutes any
time the water is turned off to blow as much crap out of the lines
before using anything inside the house.

Hi Michael,
This is a GREAT idea! (if it works).

What I don't get is WHY there was all that sandy stuff after I replaced my
wagter heater. If anything, there should be LESS sediment in the lines, not
more (way more).

Where did all that sandy sediment that clogged every single faucet in our
tiny house come from?

Is this common that sediment blocks everything in one quick pass after
replacing a water heater?

If so, why did NONE of the tutorials I read mention that simple hint you
just gave us?

Donna

ahh when you turn off the water, drain the lines, and turn the water
back on. did you note the shuddering the first time you used water?
thats normal but you have galvanized lines full of crud which broke
loose and clogged stuff.

PEX and copper have smooth insides which dont collect crud.

sorry donna you need all your water lines replaced.

incidently water companies have the same trouble, and this is whu they
flush fire hydrants a couple times a year. confirms the hydrant works
and moves along dirt in lines.

thats why flushing sometimes causes brown or cruddy water

On Feb 21, 7:15Â*am, " wrote:
On Feb 21, 2:20�am, "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator"





wrote:
On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 01:41:13 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
� �I always open an outside faucet wide open for about five minutes any
time the water is turned off to blow as much crap out of the lines
before using anything inside the house.

Hi Michael,
This is a GREAT idea! (if it works).

What I don't get is WHY there was all that sandy stuff after I replaced my
wagter heater. If anything, there should be LESS sediment in the lines, not
more (way more).

Where did all that sandy sediment that clogged every single faucet in our
tiny house come from?

Is this common that sediment blocks everything in one quick pass after
replacing a water heater?

If so, why did NONE of the tutorials I read mention that simple hint you
just gave us?

Donna

ahh when you turn off the water, drain the lines, and turn the water
back on. did you note the shuddering the first time you used water?
thats normal but you have galvanized lines full of crud which broke
loose and clogged stuff.

PEX and copper have smooth insides which dont collect crud.

sorry donna you need all your water lines replaced.

incidently water companies have the same trouble, and this is whu they
flush fire hydrants a couple times a year. confirms the hydrant works
and moves along dirt in lines.

thats why flushing sometimes causes brown or cruddy water- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

with copper of plastic lines its a non issue, and few today have
galvanized.

my neighbor got severly burnt at work after a water outage. when it
was turned back on the hot tea machine sprayed scalding water all over
her hand. she has permanent nerve damage

On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 04:15:10 -0800 (PST), wrote:
thats why flushing sometimes causes brown or cruddy wate

Hi Hallerb,

Ah. Yes. When the water was turned back on, there was a lot of sputtering
and shuddering going on, mostly sputtering. I thought it had to do with the
new burner.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2276890136/

But, this shaking & flushing of the pipes must have shaken loose sandy
grainy "crud" as every galvanized pipe I replaced was almost clogged
completely with what you called "scale".
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273250265/

The water *was* brownish for a long while (you can see that in this photo
even after cleaning out the showerheads, so the crud was *still* coming
through the lines even ten minutes after initially turning the water back
on!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279233720/

I guess all that brownish was sandy grainy stuff that caught in the filters
of *all* my faucets, showerheads, and dishwashers!

Nobody warned me about that so I'm *adding* it to the how to that I wrote
up!

Following is a idealized anatomy of a hot water heater replacement and
recommended maintenance performed, basically, on the Internet, in real
time, with the help of everyone here.

This procedure, which combines the best found on the Internet and which
takes into account *every* single of the hundreds of replies in this
newsgroup, is posted with the hope that the next amateur replacing their
natural gas galvanized pipe home hot water heater prints this out and
follows it to their delight and benefit!

A complete set of photos of every step below is available at
http://www.flickr.com/donnaohl

Here it is... this is an idealized version of my experience last week!

If you have old galvanized pipes, consider these preventive steps:
- Remove all debris screens from faucets, & tubs to prevent clogging
- Shut water to dishwaswher to prevent clogging of dishwasher screens
- Remove tub valves (I think) to prevent clogging of tubs

Remove the hot-water heater:
- Shut off the natural gas at the main gas meter (optional)
- Shut off the natural gas at the local hot-water heater (mandatory)
- Wait for the pilot light to go out to ensure no gas is left in the line
- Turn the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off position
- Wait overnight, if possible, to allow the hot water in the tank to cool
- Or run 10 or 20 gallons of hot water in the house to dilute the tank
- You will be very glad you cooled the water in the tank: Trust me!
- Shut off the main household cold water (if replacing the gate valve)
- Shut the cold-water gate-valve right-side inlet to the hot-water heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to drain off pressure
- Open the temperature and pressure valve as a safety measure (optional)
- Unscrew the cold-water inlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the hot-water outlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Use two wrenches on flex connectors or they twist like a phone cord!
- Unscrew the natural gas inlet to the water-heater thermostat
- Cap the newly disconnected natural gas line to prevent contamination
- Connect a garden hose to the plastic hot-water-heater drain valve
- Open drain valve to drain hot water where it will not damage anything
- If 40/50 gallons doesn't come out something is clogged (very common)
- Shake and prod and push to get the water out (it happened to me)
- Otherwise you'll be moving a full tank which can tip (it happened to me)
- Disconnect garden hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50 gallons)
- Unscrew the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood
- Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood (the hat on top middle)
- Unscrew sheet-metal screws holding gas-flue hat onto the vent pipe
- Separate the vent pipe from the gas-flue hat on top center of your heater
- Unscrew the seismic straps (if any) as the last thing before removal
- Remove old heater off the elevated base with two people and a handtruck
- Remove all water plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve
- Remove all gas plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve

Replace hot-water heater:
WHILE THE NEW TANK IS SITTING (DRY) ON THE GARAGE FLOOR:
- Remove the heater from the box by cutting the box completely open
- Replace the plastic drain valve with a brass ball valve (optional)
- Install the new temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve (if needed)
- Note: The brass T&P relief valve may already be installed on your tank
- Install the cold water dialectric check-valve nipple (on the top right)
- Install the hot water dialectric ckeck-valve nipple (on the top left)
- Note: The 2 check-valve nipples may already be installed on your tank.
- Wrap three layers of teflon tape on each dialectric check-valve nipple
- Remember: Always use 2 wrenches when screwing & unscrewing pipe fittings!

MOUNT THE TANK & POSITION THE VENT AND HOOD:
- Mount and level the new hot water heater on the 18-inch elevated base
- Ensure at least six inches of clear space all around the new heater
- Hacksaw the old gas vent so that it fits the new larger water heater
- Ensure the gas vent aligns with the center of the hot-water heater
- Insert legs of the draft hood into the holes in the top of the heater
- Drill a 1/8 inch hole into the draft hood and 3-inch vent pipe
- Screw in at least 1 sheet-metal screw from the vent hood to the vent pipe

ATTACH THE COLD WATER INLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Insert a blue heat-trap fitting (arrow down) into the cold-water inlet
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Look end-on through all fittings to ensure no Teflon tape overlap
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Screw the cold-water inlet male:male nipple into the top of the tank
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-inlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized cold-water inlet pipe
- Check for Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new ball-valve shutoff onto this vertical cold-water inlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the cold-water inlet brass nipples

ATTACH THE HOT WATER OUTLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Insert a red heat-trap fitting (arrow up) into the tank hot-water outlet
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-outlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new one-way check-valve onto this vertical hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the hot-water inlet brass nipples
- Bend the copper flex pipe into an S shape to further inhibit heat loss

ATTACH THE T&P SAFETY PIPE:
- Screw on rigid high-temperature water pipe to the T&P valve
- The open outlet must be six inches (no more, no less) from the floor
- The open outlet must not be threaded; no valves or traps are allowed
- Place a bowl or bucket at the outlet of this open overflow pipe
- Test the T&P valve & plumbing by flipping the little aluminum lever
- Scalding hot water should sputter out of the pipe outlet

TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Optionally, remove all the screens from your water faucets
- Optionally, shut off the water to your dishwasher to prevent clogging
- Optionally, remove the shower heads to prevent clogging
- I'm not sure what to remove yet to prevent your tub from clogging
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to bleed out air
- Slowly open the main cold-water input to the house
- Open the new ball-valve cold-water input to the hot-water heater
- Check for leaks in the plumbing as the tank fills
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve

ATTACH THE NATURAL GAS INLET:
- Always connect the natural gas line as the very last step in this process
- Set the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off position
- Coat male natural gas line threads with stick pipe dope (no teflon)
- Ensure the last two threads are not covered with any pipe dope
- Connect the new (yellow) natural gas flex pipe to the thermostat
- Turn on natural gas at the main switch (if it was turned off)
- Turn on natural gas at the local inlet to the water heater
- Test for leaks by toothbrushing a solution of dish detergent and water
- Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's lighting instructions

INSULATION:
- Wrap additional insulation around your hot-water heater, if desired
- Wrap insulation around your hot-water outlet pipe, if desired

DISPOSAL:
- Perform an autopsy on the old water heater by removing all plumbing
- Remove & inspect the 1 1/16 inch 3-foot 8-inch sacrificial anode
- Remove & inspect the T&P valve
- Call the local garbage or recycling to haul away the old water heater

Twice a year:
- Clint combusion-air lint screens (at the bottom inch of the water heater)
- Place a pan or bowl at the temperature & pressure valve overflow tube
- Test the T&P valve by flipping the lever as water violently sputters out
- Turn the natural gas to the PILOT setting (or shut it off completely)
- Leave the cold-water intake valve open at the top right of the heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet on any level above the water heater
- Gently connect a garden hose to your hot water heater drain valve
- Route the open end of the garden hose where hot water won't damage things
- Open the lower drain valve to empty a few gallons of muddy hot water
- Shut the drain valve when that water runs clear (approx 10 gallons)
- Once every three years, remove the 1 1/16-inch sacrificial anode
- Replace the 3'8" sacrificial anode if corroded or calcium passivated
- To replace, bend the magnesium anode or replace with sausage links
- Turn the natural gas back on and ensure the burner is working properly

Hi Hallerb,

Ah. Yes. When the water was turned back on, there was a lot of sputtering
and shuddering going on, mostly sputtering. I thought it had to do with
the
new burner.
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2276890136/

But, this shaking & flushing of the pipes must have shaken loose sandy
grainy "crud" as every galvanized pipe I replaced was almost clogged
completely with what you called "scale".
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2273250265/

The water *was* brownish for a long while (you can see that in this photo
even after cleaning out the showerheads, so the crud was *still* coming
through the lines even ten minutes after initially turning the water back
on!
http://www.flickr.com/photos/donnaohl/2279233720/

I guess all that brownish was sandy grainy stuff that caught in the
filters
of *all* my faucets, showerheads, and dishwashers!

Nobody warned me about that so I'm *adding* it to the how to that I wrote
up!


The sputtering is due to air in the lines, it gets trapped in all sorts of
places and sputters and spurts out when a tap is opened.

I've only ever seen a couple houses that had galvanized pipes, and in one
case they were all being replaced. The sediment problem is something mostly
specific to galvanized, so it's not on the radar for most people.

In article , "Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" wrote:
Following is a idealized anatomy of a hot water heater replacement and
recommended maintenance performed, basically, on the Internet, in real
time, with the help of everyone here.

This procedure, which combines the best found on the Internet and which
takes into account *every* single of the hundreds of replies in this
newsgroup, is posted with the hope that the next amateur replacing their
natural gas galvanized pipe home hot water heater prints this out and
follows it to their delight and benefit!

A complete set of photos of every step below is available at
http://www.flickr.com/donnaohl

Here it is... this is an idealized version of my experience last week!

If you have old galvanized pipes, consider these preventive steps:
- Remove all debris screens from faucets, & tubs to prevent clogging
- Shut water to dishwaswher to prevent clogging of dishwasher screens
- Remove tub valves (I think) to prevent clogging of tubs

Remove the hot-water heater:
- Shut off the natural gas at the main gas meter (optional)
- Shut off the natural gas at the local hot-water heater (mandatory)
- Wait for the pilot light to go out to ensure no gas is left in the line
- Turn the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off position
- Wait overnight, if possible, to allow the hot water in the tank to cool
- Or run 10 or 20 gallons of hot water in the house to dilute the tank
- You will be very glad you cooled the water in the tank: Trust me!
- Shut off the main household cold water (if replacing the gate valve)
- Shut the cold-water gate-valve right-side inlet to the hot-water heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to drain off pressure
- Open the temperature and pressure valve as a safety measure (optional)
- Unscrew the cold-water inlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the hot-water outlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Use two wrenches on flex connectors or they twist like a phone cord!
- Unscrew the natural gas inlet to the water-heater thermostat
- Cap the newly disconnected natural gas line to prevent contamination
- Connect a garden hose to the plastic hot-water-heater drain valve
- Open drain valve to drain hot water where it will not damage anything
- If 40/50 gallons doesn't come out something is clogged (very common)
- Shake and prod and push to get the water out (it happened to me)
- Otherwise you'll be moving a full tank which can tip (it happened to me)
- Disconnect garden hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50 gallons)
- Unscrew the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood
- Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood (the hat on top middle)
- Unscrew sheet-metal screws holding gas-flue hat onto the vent pipe
- Separate the vent pipe from the gas-flue hat on top center of your heater
- Unscrew the seismic straps (if any) as the last thing before removal
- Remove old heater off the elevated base with two people and a handtruck
- Remove all water plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve
- Remove all gas plumbing up to and including the old shut-off valve

Replace hot-water heater:
WHILE THE NEW TANK IS SITTING (DRY) ON THE GARAGE FLOOR:
- Remove the heater from the box by cutting the box completely open
- Replace the plastic drain valve with a brass ball valve (optional)
- Install the new temperature and pressure (T&P) relief valve (if needed)
- Note: The brass T&P relief valve may already be installed on your tank
- Install the cold water dialectric check-valve nipple (on the top right)
- Install the hot water dialectric ckeck-valve nipple (on the top left)
- Note: The 2 check-valve nipples may already be installed on your tank.
- Wrap three layers of teflon tape on each dialectric check-valve nipple
- Remember: Always use 2 wrenches when screwing & unscrewing pipe fittings!

MOUNT THE TANK & POSITION THE VENT AND HOOD:
- Mount and level the new hot water heater on the 18-inch elevated base
- Ensure at least six inches of clear space all around the new heater
- Hacksaw the old gas vent so that it fits the new larger water heater
- Ensure the gas vent aligns with the center of the hot-water heater
- Insert legs of the draft hood into the holes in the top of the heater
- Drill a 1/8 inch hole into the draft hood and 3-inch vent pipe
- Screw in at least 1 sheet-metal screw from the vent hood to the vent pipe

ATTACH THE COLD WATER INLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Insert a blue heat-trap fitting (arrow down) into the cold-water inlet
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Look end-on through all fittings to ensure no Teflon tape overlap
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Screw the cold-water inlet male:male nipple into the top of the tank
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-inlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized cold-water inlet pipe
- Check for Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new ball-valve shutoff onto this vertical cold-water inlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the cold-water inlet brass nipples

ATTACH THE HOT WATER OUTLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the tank
- Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon tape
- Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is noted below
- Insert a red heat-trap fitting (arrow up) into the tank hot-water outlet
- Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the galvanized 3/4" water-outlet pipe
- Screw a dialectric union on the 3/4" galvanized hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of each male:male brass nipple
- Screw the brass male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union
- Screw a new one-way check-valve onto this vertical hot-water outlet pipe
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the hot-water inlet brass nipples
- Bend the copper flex pipe into an S shape to further inhibit heat loss

ATTACH THE T&P SAFETY PIPE:
- Screw on rigid high-temperature water pipe to the T&P valve
- The open outlet must be six inches (no more, no less) from the floor
- The open outlet must not be threaded; no valves or traps are allowed
- Place a bowl or bucket at the outlet of this open overflow pipe
- Test the T&P valve & plumbing by flipping the little aluminum lever
- Scalding hot water should sputter out of the pipe outlet

TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Optionally, remove all the screens from your water faucets
- Optionally, shut off the water to your dishwasher to prevent clogging
- Optionally, remove the shower heads to prevent clogging
- I'm not sure what to remove yet to prevent your tub from clogging
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to bleed out air
- Slowly open the main cold-water input to the house
- Open the new ball-valve cold-water input to the hot-water heater
- Check for leaks in the plumbing as the tank fills
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve

ATTACH THE NATURAL GAS INLET:
- Always connect the natural gas line as the very last step in this process
- Set the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off position
- Coat male natural gas line threads with stick pipe dope (no teflon)
- Ensure the last two threads are not covered with any pipe dope
- Connect the new (yellow) natural gas flex pipe to the thermostat
- Turn on natural gas at the main switch (if it was turned off)
- Turn on natural gas at the local inlet to the water heater
- Test for leaks by toothbrushing a solution of dish detergent and water
- Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's lighting instructions

INSULATION:
- Wrap additional insulation around your hot-water heater, if desired
- Wrap insulation around your hot-water outlet pipe, if desired

DISPOSAL:
- Perform an autopsy on the old water heater by removing all plumbing
- Remove & inspect the 1 1/16 inch 3-foot 8-inch sacrificial anode
- Remove & inspect the T&P valve
- Call the local garbage or recycling to haul away the old water heater

Twice a year:
- Clint combusion-air lint screens (at the bottom inch of the water heater)
- Place a pan or bowl at the temperature & pressure valve overflow tube
- Test the T&P valve by flipping the lever as water violently sputters out
- Turn the natural gas to the PILOT setting (or shut it off completely)
- Leave the cold-water intake valve open at the top right of the heater
- Open at least one hot-water faucet on any level above the water heater
- Gently connect a garden hose to your hot water heater drain valve
- Route the open end of the garden hose where hot water won't damage things
- Open the lower drain valve to empty a few gallons of muddy hot water
- Shut the drain valve when that water runs clear (approx 10 gallons)
- Once every three years, remove the 1 1/16-inch sacrificial anode
- Replace the 3'8" sacrificial anode if corroded or calcium passivated
- To replace, bend the magnesium anode or replace with sausage links
- Turn the natural gas back on and ensure the burner is working properly


Insulation wrapping the hot water pipe, all the way to common fixtures is
desirable. Also wrap the cold water intake near the hot water heater.
It gets hot and looses heat when there is no inflow.

It especially desirable to better insulate the heater when its
not in the living area. Inside the living area, the loss is added to the room
temperature, and most of the year you need extra heat anyway.

greg

James Sweet wrote:

snip

I've only ever seen a couple houses that had galvanized pipes, and in one
case they were all being replaced. The sediment problem is something mostly
specific to galvanized, so it's not on the radar for most people.

Huh? Look most anywhere in the 'rust belt' or in areas where the housing
stock is largely greater than 80 years old ;-) Too bad that 'tutorials'
aren't directed at those situations to which they are most needed.

Michael

Huh? Look most anywhere in the 'rust belt' or in areas where the housing
stock is largely greater than 80 years old ;-) Too bad that 'tutorials'
aren't directed at those situations to which they are most needed.



I'm not anywhere near the rust belt.

I know several people with old houses that originally had galvanized, but
they're all copper now.

" wrote:

with copper of plastic lines its a non issue, and few today have
galvanized.

my neighbor got severly burnt at work after a water outage. when it
was turned back on the hot tea machine sprayed scalding water all over
her hand. she has permanent nerve damage


All my plumbing is PVC, except the well casing. The people I bought
the place from waited till the old well was totally useless, and there
is 1/8" of rust on the walls of the PVC. Every time the system, is
deperssurized, I get VERY rusty water, unless I flush it, as described.

--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

"Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator" wrote:

On Thu, 21 Feb 2008 01:41:13 -0500, Michael A. Terrell wrote:
I always open an outside faucet wide open for about five minutes any
time the water is turned off to blow as much crap out of the lines
before using anything inside the house.

Hi Michael,
This is a GREAT idea! (if it works).

What I don't get is WHY there was all that sandy stuff after I replaced my
wagter heater. If anything, there should be LESS sediment in the lines, not
more (way more).

Where did all that sandy sediment that clogged every single faucet in our
tiny house come from?

Is this common that sediment blocks everything in one quick pass after
replacing a water heater?

If so, why did NONE of the tutorials I read mention that simple hint you
just gave us?


Who knows? They probably overlook it, thinking that everyone already
knows about it. People who are too close ot any subject tend to mitt
important details, because they think everyone knows THAT about the
job. I rewrote a lot of test procedures where I worked, because of the
engineering department doing the same thing. You had to train each tech
on each job, because so much stuff was left out, or just plain wrong.
Eventually, the system was changed to peer review the documents on the
test floor before changes were approved.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

GregS wrote:

It especially desirable to better insulate the heater when its
not in the living area. Inside the living area, the loss is added to the room
temperature, and most of the year you need extra heat anyway.


Not in sunny Florida, where you run the AC almost year round.


--
Service to my country? Been there, Done that, and I've got my DD214 to
prove it.
Member of DAV #85.

Michael A. Terrell
Central Florida

In article , wrote:
GregS wrote:

It especially desirable to better insulate the heater when its
not in the living area. Inside the living area, the loss is added to the room
temperature, and most of the year you need extra heat anyway.


Not in sunny Florida, where you run the AC almost year round.

Are geothermal heat pumps becoming poplar there ?
I think I could have saved gas bills by using the underground pipes
and heat pump. My electricity is cheap.


greg

GregS wrote:

In article , wrote:
GregS wrote:

It especially desirable to better insulate the heater when its
not in the living area. Inside the living area, the loss is added to the room
temperature, and most of the year you need extra heat anyway.


Not in sunny Florida, where you run the AC almost year round.

Are geothermal heat pumps becoming poplar there ?
I think I could have saved gas bills by using the underground pipes
and heat pump. My electricity is cheap.

greg


Higher property taxes tend to wipe out any savings. I do know one
thing though: If this 'Global Warming' keeps up, I'll have to buy a
furnace.


--
My sig file can beat up your sig file!

GregS wrote:

In article , wrote:
GregS wrote:

It especially desirable to better insulate the heater when its
not in the living area. Inside the living area, the loss is added to the room
temperature, and most of the year you need extra heat anyway.


Not in sunny Florida, where you run the AC almost year round.

Are geothermal heat pumps becoming poplar there ?
I think I could have saved gas bills by using the underground pipes
and heat pump. My electricity is cheap.

greg


Higher property taxes tend to wipe out any savings. I do know one
thing though: If this 'Global Warming' keeps up, I'll have to buy a
furnace.


--
My sig file can beat up your sig file!

even if you knew this would occur it would be impossible to completely
prevent or flush the junk.......

first not every valve can be opened, like the dishwasher

second the junk will be disturbed and contuue coming off to a lesser
degree for some time

and even if you open valves slowly it will still occur.

might be time to drain the new tank to get out what you can

even if you knew this would occur it would be impossible to completely
prevent or flush the junk.......

first not every valve can be opened, like the dishwasher

second the junk will be disturbed and contuue coming off to a lesser
degree for some time

and even if you open valves slowly it will still occur.

might be time to drain the new tank to get out what you can

On Feb 21, 2:48 pm, " wrote:
even if you knew this would occur it would be impossible to completely
prevent or flush the junk.......

Donna,
You forgot to add the hint about opening the outside water faucets!
Please add that to the tutorial!

On Feb 21, 2:48 pm, " wrote:
even if you knew this would occur it would be impossible to completely
prevent or flush the junk.......

Donna,
You forgot to add the hint about opening the outside water faucets!
Please add that to the tutorial!

On Mon 11 Feb 2008 18:30:38, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
wrote:

On Mon, 11 Feb 2008 18:04:46 GMT, Franklin wrote:
Donna, is there a freeware engineering tool for designing domestic
hot water heaters. Maybe there is one which links into a
suppliers a bill of material parts systems or their inventory
system. That would be useful for all of us.

Can you help us?

Hi Franklin,

Thanks for asking for help. I did some research just for you and I
think the closest I can find to help you in a freeware section
(since you are so well known from the freeware side) is the GAMA
Association of Applicance Manufacturers web site - open and
available to all.
http://www.gamanet.org

At that site, they provide links for both supplier and consumer
bill-of-material and inventory calculators, mostly for suppliers
who wish to design and deliver inventory to commercial and
consumer.

For example, here's their section on product certification:
http://www.gamanet.org/gama/inforeso.../Product+Direc
tories?OpenDocument

Here is their section on government affairs:
http://www.gamanet.org/gama/govtaffa...Docs/Current+I
ssues?OpenDocument

And, Franklin, here is their section on public information:
http://www.gamanet.org/gama/stats.ns...Information?Op
enDocument

I've run a few more searches for you and this is the best they have
that I can find to help you but I will try to see if I can write a
PERL program that does the FHV and ER calculations I need.

You can rest assured Franklin that I will post the results (if
successful and meaningful) back to the group but first, I'm asking
the experts who know much more than I do about the implications of
the FHR and EF ratings because I want the program to be correct.
Don't you think that prudent?

As you know, I always help everyone I can and I always give back
more than ask for, and I summarize in the end so a newbie starts
off where we left ... so, you can rest assured, at least on the
water heater topic, that I will provide full telephone numbers,
part numbers, product specifications, prices installed, gotchas
(like mandatory replacement of flex pipes and $77 plumber's
inspection fees) and the like.

What else do you need Franklin?

Donna



Hello Donna

Are you able to help me with my freeware question I posted in reply to
the same message of yours?

See

Thank you for your help. This will be a great project for us all and we
will help lots of other people too.

Franklin



--
Some of Hummingbird's k00k methods are explained he
http://www.searchlores.org/way_kook.htm

On Sat 16 Feb 2008 23:08:42, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
wrote:

On Sat, 16 Feb 2008 22:57:32 GMT, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer
Coordinator wrote:
I would guess any engineer should be able to tell us what this
41,045 magic number really is.

I'm surprised a chemist or engineer isn't on this group.

I think this is the fundamental answer!

page 11, Water Heating Calculations
http://www.green-trust.org/2000/solar/solar.pdf
43,302 kJ/day is 41,045 Btu/day is the energy delivered to the hot
water load per day

And, this one says most plumbers don't understand the efficiency
factor for home water heaters

Residential Gas Water Heating:
Program Design & Specification Considerations, page 6
http://www.cee1.org/cee/mtg/09-07ppt...20Residential%
20%20Gas%20water%20heating.ppt
Annual Savings (Therms/year) is based on
the DOE Test Procedu (41,045 Btu/EF*365)/100,000


Boing!! Payoff.

You tell 'em Donna. Show them you knew the answer all along.

Poor " and others like him now don't know what's
hit them.

Nothing like reeling in a very long fishing line that you've
carefully laid out. Good one!!

On Mon 18 Feb 2008 15:16:55, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
wrote:

On Mon, 18 Feb 2008 05:29:11 -0800 (PST), N8N wrote:
I just replaced the anodes ... on two ancient (80's) water heaters
it turns out that they were both still in good shape

Hi Nate,

That brings up the first (of many) questions that arose when we
replaced our hot water heater (with your help) yesterday ...

1. I agree, while replacing the altruistic anode is a "good thing"
...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2086/...124_f60ec145cf.
jpg?v=0

The problem I found is ...

2. Even Superman couldn't would have a tough time removing mine ...
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2033/...52c3b7d618.jpg
?v=0

Given it took a pipe wrench plus a huge cheater bar to remove the
anode with the water heater removed and blocked on the ground ...
and given that any in-place plumbing and vent ducts would have
severely hampered access ... and given that a water heater isn't
rigidly "mounted" ... I wonder ...

Can anyone really expect to remove the anode when it needs
inspection? Why don't they provide TWO HOLES so you can add a
second anode when needed?

Donna
http://www.flickr.com/donnaohl


Hello Donna, you seem to have learnt quite a surprsing amount for
someone who has was a novice just a few weeks ago and who does not
have a background in mechanical engineering.

I'm impressed.

Or i would be impressed if I could believe it but I am afrain I can't
beleieve it.

What did you say was your line of work?

If you have time when you're not posting extended posts to a "quick
and basic" question?

On Thu 21 Feb 2008 15:01:43, Donna Ohl, Grady Volunteer Coordinator
wrote:

Following is a idealized anatomy of a hot water heater replacement
and recommended maintenance performed, basically, on the Internet,
in real time, with the help of everyone here.

This procedure, which combines the best found on the Internet and
which takes into account *every* single of the hundreds of replies
in this newsgroup, is posted with the hope that the next amateur
replacing their natural gas galvanized pipe home hot water heater
prints this out and follows it to their delight and benefit!

A complete set of photos of every step below is available at
http://www.flickr.com/donnaohl

Here it is... this is an idealized version of my experience last
week!

If you have old galvanized pipes, consider these preventive steps:
- Remove all debris screens from faucets, & tubs to prevent
clogging - Shut water to dishwaswher to prevent clogging of
dishwasher screens - Remove tub valves (I think) to prevent
clogging of tubs

Remove the hot-water heater:
- Shut off the natural gas at the main gas meter (optional)
- Shut off the natural gas at the local hot-water heater
(mandatory) - Wait for the pilot light to go out to ensure no gas
is left in the line - Turn the thermostat on the hot-water heater
to the off position - Wait overnight, if possible, to allow the hot
water in the tank to cool - Or run 10 or 20 gallons of hot water in
the house to dilute the tank - You will be very glad you cooled the
water in the tank: Trust me! - Shut off the main household cold
water (if replacing the gate valve) - Shut the cold-water
gate-valve right-side inlet to the hot-water heater - Open at least
one hot-water faucet in the house to drain off pressure - Open the
temperature and pressure valve as a safety measure (optional) -
Unscrew the cold-water inlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Unscrew the hot-water outlet at the nipple at the top of the tank
- Use two wrenches on flex connectors or they twist like a phone
cord! - Unscrew the natural gas inlet to the water-heater
thermostat - Cap the newly disconnected natural gas line to prevent
contamination - Connect a garden hose to the plastic
hot-water-heater drain valve - Open drain valve to drain hot water
where it will not damage anything - If 40/50 gallons doesn't come
out something is clogged (very common) - Shake and prod and push to
get the water out (it happened to me) - Otherwise you'll be moving
a full tank which can tip (it happened to me) - Disconnect garden
hose and close drain valve when done (40 or 50 gallons) - Unscrew
the sheet-metal screw holding the vent pipe to the draft hood -
Separate the vent pipe from the draft hood (the hat on top middle)
- Unscrew sheet-metal screws holding gas-flue hat onto the vent
pipe - Separate the vent pipe from the gas-flue hat on top center
of your heater - Unscrew the seismic straps (if any) as the last
thing before removal - Remove old heater off the elevated base with
two people and a handtruck - Remove all water plumbing up to and
including the old shut-off valve - Remove all gas plumbing up to
and including the old shut-off valve

Replace hot-water heater:
WHILE THE NEW TANK IS SITTING (DRY) ON THE GARAGE FLOOR:
- Remove the heater from the box by cutting the box completely
open - Replace the plastic drain valve with a brass ball valve
(optional) - Install the new temperature and pressure (T&P) relief
valve (if needed) - Note: The brass T&P relief valve may already be
installed on your tank - Install the cold water dialectric
check-valve nipple (on the top right) - Install the hot water
dialectric ckeck-valve nipple (on the top left) - Note: The 2
check-valve nipples may already be installed on your tank. - Wrap
three layers of teflon tape on each dialectric check-valve nipple
- Remember: Always use 2 wrenches when screwing & unscrewing pipe
fittings!

MOUNT THE TANK & POSITION THE VENT AND HOOD:
- Mount and level the new hot water heater on the 18-inch elevated
base - Ensure at least six inches of clear space all around the new
heater - Hacksaw the old gas vent so that it fits the new larger
water heater - Ensure the gas vent aligns with the center of the
hot-water heater - Insert legs of the draft hood into the holes in
the top of the heater - Drill a 1/8 inch hole into the draft hood
and 3-inch vent pipe - Screw in at least 1 sheet-metal screw from
the vent hood to the vent pipe

ATTACH THE COLD WATER INLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the
tank - Insert a blue heat-trap fitting (arrow down) into the
cold-water inlet - Ensure the last two threads are never covered
with Teflon tape - Look end-on through all fittings to ensure no
Teflon tape overlap - Do not use pipe dope on any threads where
Teflon tape is noted below - Screw the cold-water inlet male:male
nipple into the top of the tank - Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of
the galvanized 3/4" water-inlet pipe - Screw a dialectric union on
the 3/4" galvanized cold-water inlet pipe - Check for Teflon tape
on the threads of each male:male brass nipple - Screw the brass
male:male nipple on the female:female dialectric union - Screw a
new ball-valve shutoff onto this vertical cold-water inlet pipe -
Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple
- Screw this male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff
- Screw the copper flex pipe onto the cold-water inlet brass
nipples

ATTACH THE HOT WATER OUTLET:
- Wrap Teflon tape on the threads of the fittings supplied with the
tank - Ensure the last two threads are never covered with Teflon
tape - Do not use pipe dope on any threads where Teflon tape is
noted below - Insert a red heat-trap fitting (arrow up) into the
tank hot-water outlet - Wrap Teflon tape on the thread of the
galvanized 3/4" water-outlet pipe - Screw a dialectric union on the
3/4" galvanized hot-water outlet pipe - Wrap Teflon tape on the
threads of each male:male brass nipple - Screw the brass male:male
nipple on the female:female dialectric union - Screw a new one-way
check-valve onto this vertical hot-water outlet pipe - Wrap Teflon
tape on the threads of another male:male brass nipple - Screw this
male:male nipple into the new ball-valve shutoff - Screw the copper
flex pipe onto the hot-water inlet brass nipples - Bend the copper
flex pipe into an S shape to further inhibit heat loss

ATTACH THE T&P SAFETY PIPE:
- Screw on rigid high-temperature water pipe to the T&P valve
- The open outlet must be six inches (no more, no less) from the
floor - The open outlet must not be threaded; no valves or traps
are allowed - Place a bowl or bucket at the outlet of this open
overflow pipe - Test the T&P valve & plumbing by flipping the
little aluminum lever - Scalding hot water should sputter out of
the pipe outlet

TURN ON THE WATER SUPPLY:
- Optionally, remove all the screens from your water faucets
- Optionally, shut off the water to your dishwasher to prevent
clogging - Optionally, remove the shower heads to prevent clogging
- I'm not sure what to remove yet to prevent your tub from clogging
- Open at least one hot-water faucet in the house to bleed out air
- Slowly open the main cold-water input to the house
- Open the new ball-valve cold-water input to the hot-water heater
- Check for leaks in the plumbing as the tank fills
- Place a pan or bowl at the T&P overflow tube & test the T&P valve

ATTACH THE NATURAL GAS INLET:
- Always connect the natural gas line as the very last step in this
process - Set the thermostat on the hot-water heater to the off
position - Coat male natural gas line threads with stick pipe dope
(no teflon) - Ensure the last two threads are not covered with any
pipe dope - Connect the new (yellow) natural gas flex pipe to the
thermostat - Turn on natural gas at the main switch (if it was
turned off) - Turn on natural gas at the local inlet to the water
heater - Test for leaks by toothbrushing a solution of dish
detergent and water - Read and carefully follow the manufacturer's
lighting instructions

INSULATION:
- Wrap additional insulation around your hot-water heater, if
desired - Wrap insulation around your hot-water outlet pipe, if
desired

DISPOSAL:
- Perform an autopsy on the old water heater by removing all
plumbing - Remove & inspect the 1 1/16 inch 3-foot 8-inch
sacrificial anode - Remove & inspect the T&P valve
- Call the local garbage or recycling to haul away the old water
heater

Twice a year:
- Clint combusion-air lint screens (at the bottom inch of the water
heater) - Place a pan or bowl at the temperature & pressure valve
overflow tube - Test the T&P valve by flipping the lever as water
violently sputters out - Turn the natural gas to the PILOT setting
(or shut it off completely) - Leave the cold-water intake valve
open at the top right of the heater - Open at least one hot-water
faucet on any level above the water heater - Gently connect a
garden hose to your hot water heater drain valve - Route the open
end of the garden hose where hot water won't damage things - Open
the lower drain valve to empty a few gallons of muddy hot water -
Shut the drain valve when that water runs clear (approx 10 gallons)
- Once every three years, remove the 1 1/16-inch sacrificial anode
- Replace the 3'8" sacrificial anode if corroded or calcium
passivated - To replace, bend the magnesium anode or replace with
sausage links - Turn the natural gas back on and ensure the burner
is working properly


Donna, do you think the other people who have posted to help you
actually suspect what is going on? :-)

Some must have realized it by now. Do you think they are just
keeping quiet?

On Feb 27, 4:56 pm, John wrote:

Donna, do you think the other people who have posted to help you
actually suspect what is going on? :-)

Some must have realized ...


Maybe, maybe not...but John, you're quite late with this post. Please
do try to keep up. Bill does.

On Wed, 27 Feb 2008 21:54:18 GMT, John wrote:
Hello Donna, you seem to have learnt quite a surprsing amount.

Hello John,
I wonder why intelligence bothers you so very much.