Yep, got a leak somewhere. Did the timing thing with the water meter
and found the three largest zones use most of the water.

My Problem: water bill came to $400.00 one month and $500.00 the next
month. Stopped using the sprinklers and dropped to $50 - $60/Mo.
My Guess: underground sprinkler leak
My Question: What is the easiest way to check the lines for a leak?
My Answer (up for review): Take out the sprinkler heads in each zone
and cap off the line, run the sprinkler water and see if meter turns.

Need help to see if this is the best way to check the lines, or will a
divining rod be better?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Dave FL

"Dave FL" wrote in message
ups.com...
Yep, got a leak somewhere. Did the timing thing with the water meter
and found the three largest zones use most of the water.

My Problem: water bill came to $400.00 one month and $500.00 the next
month. Stopped using the sprinklers and dropped to $50 - $60/Mo.
My Guess: underground sprinkler leak
My Question: What is the easiest way to check the lines for a leak?
My Answer (up for review): Take out the sprinkler heads in each zone
and cap off the line, run the sprinkler water and see if meter turns.

Need help to see if this is the best way to check the lines, or will a
divining rod be better?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Dave FL

is it always wet by the sprinkler heads?

Dave FL wrote:
Yep, got a leak somewhere. Did the timing thing with the water meter
and found the three largest zones use most of the water.

My Problem: water bill came to $400.00 one month and $500.00 the
next month. Stopped using the sprinklers and dropped to $50 -
$60/Mo.
My Guess: underground sprinkler leak
My Question: What is the easiest way to check the lines for a leak?
My Answer (up for review): Take out the sprinkler heads in each zone
and cap off the line, run the sprinkler water and see if meter
turns.

Need help to see if this is the best way to check the lines, or
will a divining rod be better?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Feel the supply lines (to sprinklers) at the manifolds. The pipe will
be cooler if water is running (leak) than when not since the
ground/sun warms static water in the pipe.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

jthread" wrote:

is it always wet by the sprinkler heads?- Hide quoted text -

A cople of the larger sprinkler heads dribble a little water out while
running, but I don't have any real wet spots and the sprinkler
pressure doesn't seem any lower

Dave FL

dadiOH wrote:

Feel the supply lines (to sprinklers) at the manifolds. The pipe will
be cooler if water is running (leak) than when not since the
ground/sun warms static water in the pipe.

Would this be done after I cap off the lines?

dadiOH

"Dave FL" wrote in message
ps.com...
jthread" wrote:

is it always wet by the sprinkler heads?- Hide quoted text -

A cople of the larger sprinkler heads dribble a little water out while
running, but I don't have any real wet spots and the sprinkler
pressure doesn't seem any lower

Dave FL


check your valves. sounds to me they are getting stuck. they have to be
maintained anyway. if a section is dribbling it's not closing all the way.

On Nov 5, 8:25 am, Dave FL wrote:
Yep, got a leak somewhere. Did the timing thing with the water meter
and found the three largest zones use most of the water.

My Problem: water bill came to $400.00 one month and $500.00 the next
month. Stopped using the sprinklers and dropped to $50 - $60/Mo.
My Guess: underground sprinkler leak
My Question: What is the easiest way to check the lines for a leak?
My Answer (up for review): Take out the sprinkler heads in each zone
and cap off the line, run the sprinkler water and see if meter turns.



Need help to see if this is the best way to check the lines, or will a
divining rod be better?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Dave FL

Dave-

Unless your water rates are sky high, $400 worth of water is a LOT.
By my calcs about 150,000 gallons

If you have a leak somewhere there has got to be a rather large soggy
spot.

Are the sprinkler valves electric? Can they be turned off manually
(individually)?

I would guess that since the water bill dropped when you "Stopped
using the sprinklers"
(I assume you cut off water to the sprinkler valve manifold) that the
"leak" is a faulty sprinkler valve not a line failure.

You're leaking water at about 3 or 4 gpm.

Are some the heads in one of the zones wet constantly?

cheers
Bob

On Nov 5, 12:11 pm, BobK207 wrote:

If you have a leak somewhere there has got to be a rather large soggy
spot.

Can't find any, it could be possible that since I live in Florida, the
soil below 1-2 feet is sandy, and could be soaking it up?

Are the sprinkler valves electric? Can they be turned off manually
(individually)?

Hunter sprinkler system with a Rain Bird controller

(I assume you cut off water to the sprinkler valve manifold) that the
"leak" is a faulty sprinkler valve not a line failure.

I have checked all of the valves (had to replace one solenoid) and
they are not filling up with water when running. I have only turned
off the rain bird control, not the incoming water at the backflow
preventer (Two knobs, 1 for interior & 1 for exterior)

Are some the heads in one of the zones wet constantly?

No, even with the main still on and RB turned off

Dave FL

jthread wrote:

check your valves. sounds to me they are getting stuck. they have to be
maintained anyway. if a section is dribbling it's not closing all the way.

Sorry, what I meant by dribbling was when the zone is on a couple of
sprinkler heads dribble water between the top and the shaft. Does this
sound right?

Dave FL

Dave FL wrote:
Yep, got a leak somewhere. Did the timing thing with the water meter
and found the three largest zones use most of the water.

My Problem: water bill came to $400.00 one month and $500.00 the next
month. Stopped using the sprinklers and dropped to $50 - $60/Mo.
My Guess: underground sprinkler leak
My Question: What is the easiest way to check the lines for a leak?
My Answer (up for review): Take out the sprinkler heads in each zone
and cap off the line, run the sprinkler water and see if meter turns.

Need help to see if this is the best way to check the lines, or will a
divining rod be better?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Dave FL

Does your neighbor have a pool?

Is there a new bog in your neighborhood?

200,000 gallons of water over two months is a LOT of water.

200,000 gallons = 27,000 cu ft = 10'x45'x6' pool, or a little less than half
an Olympic swimming pool.

"Dave FL" wrote in message
ups.com...
jthread wrote:

check your valves. sounds to me they are getting stuck. they have to be
maintained anyway. if a section is dribbling it's not closing all the
way.

Sorry, what I meant by dribbling was when the zone is on a couple of
sprinkler heads dribble water between the top and the shaft. Does this
sound right?

Dave FL


not really. i read your post below and i got to admit i'm stumped. when they
leak it's usually a valve. if your water is hard it can cause them to fail
pretty quickly. keep at it. it's not that complicated someone will help
you.

On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 08:25:14 -0800, Dave FL wrote:

Yep, got a leak somewhere. Did the timing thing with the water meter
and found the three largest zones use most of the water.

My Problem: water bill came to $400.00 one month and $500.00 the next
month. Stopped using the sprinklers and dropped to $50 - $60/Mo.
My Guess: underground sprinkler leak
My Question: What is the easiest way to check the lines for a leak?
My Answer (up for review): Take out the sprinkler heads in each zone
and cap off the line, run the sprinkler water and see if meter turns.

Need help to see if this is the best way to check the lines, or will a
divining rod be better?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Dave FL

Dave, I'm no guru on sprinklers except to say I've had 2 different
systems for about 15 years or so, so I have some experience with minor
fixes. My instinct would be that if you have that much leakage, you
should have a soft spot in your yard where the water is leaking. I
think with that much water and under pressure, some water will
probably go to the surface as well as below the pipes. You might also
see what some diy places for installing systems have to say or google
for it.

Last resort, before paying for that much water again, it will probably
be A LOT cheaper to get a professional to fix the problem !!

On Nov 5, 12:22 pm, observer wrote:
On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 08:25:14 -0800, Dave FL wrote:
Yep, got a leak somewhere. Did the timing thing with the water meter
and found the three largest zones use most of the water.

My Problem: water bill came to $400.00 one month and $500.00 the next
month. Stopped using the sprinklers and dropped to $50 - $60/Mo.
My Guess: underground sprinkler leak
My Question: What is the easiest way to check the lines for a leak?
My Answer (up for review): Take out the sprinkler heads in each zone
and cap off the line, run the sprinkler water and see if meter turns.

Need help to see if this is the best way to check the lines, or will a
divining rod be better?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Dave FL

Dave, I'm no guru on sprinklers except to say I've had 2 different
systems for about 15 years or so, so I have some experience with minor
fixes. My instinct would be that if you have that much leakage, you
should have a soft spot in your yard where the water is leaking. I
think with that much water and under pressure, some water will
probably go to the surface as well as below the pipes. You might also
see what some diy places for installing systems have to say or google
for it.

Last resort, before paying for that much water again, it will probably
be A LOT cheaper to get a professional to fix the problem !!- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -

The zone with weak pressure has the leak, follow the pipe and it
should be evident from soaked ground.

"Dave FL" wrote in message
ups.com...
Yep, got a leak somewhere. Did the timing thing with the water meter
and found the three largest zones use most of the water.

My Problem: water bill came to $400.00 one month and $500.00 the next
month. Stopped using the sprinklers and dropped to $50 - $60/Mo.
My Guess: underground sprinkler leak
My Question: What is the easiest way to check the lines for a leak?
My Answer (up for review): Take out the sprinkler heads in each zone
and cap off the line, run the sprinkler water and see if meter turns.

Need help to see if this is the best way to check the lines, or will a
divining rod be better?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Dave FL

I suppose in FL with our really sandy soil it may be possible to have a big
leak that never shows up on the surface. But before I did a lot of digging
and troubleshooting, I'd first do some calculations and make sure that there
was something wrong.

1. Did your waterbills suddenly go up to $400-$500? What were they before
you began to suspect a leak? Has your county put a surcharge on the water
bills because of the current drought?

2. How much water did you use with irrigation? without irrigation?

3. You should be able to check your water meter while running a single zone
and determine how much water is being put out when that zone is operating.
Knowing the number of heads on each zone and their approximate output you
should be able to calculate an approximate level of water use. If there is
a single source for excessive water use that should become apparent. You
should be able to run each zone, determine how much water it puts out during
its cycle, compare with your calculations, and if there's little
discrepancy, multiply by the number of cycles in a month, and determine your
programmed irrigation amounts. If it's totally out of whack with your
actual usage you need to look further.

4. Once you know how much water is being used during irrigation, you should
be able to determine whether that's an abnormal amount, and then identify
which of the zones is/are causing the problem. If you haven't done so,
recheck the zone settings on the Rainbird to make sure each zone is only
running ~20 minutes, and only on 1-2 x week. If something caused the
controller program to go bad, you could be running the system a lot more
than originally planned.

5. Once you've (a) identified that there actually is a new problem and (b)
identified which zone is at fault, (or perhaps that there is a problem in
the manifold or location that might affect several zones) you can
trouble-shoot that area
..

Dave FL wrote:
dadiOH wrote:

Feel the supply lines (to sprinklers) at the manifolds. The pipe
will be cooler if water is running (leak) than when not since the
ground/sun warms static water in the pipe.

Would this be done after I cap off the lines?

I am not sure what you mean by "cap off the lines". If you mean
adjust the sprinklers to zero discharge then no, that is not
necessary.



--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

Dave FL wrote:
On Nov 5, 12:11 pm, BobK207 wrote:

If you have a leak somewhere there has got to be a rather large
soggy spot.

Can't find any, it could be possible that since I live in Florida,
the soil below 1-2 feet is sandy, and could be soaking it up?

I live in Florida too and the amount of water mentioned is a LOT even
for Florida sand to soak up. With that much water leaking there must
be a joint (or maybe a holed pipe - been digging?) underground that
failed but - even in sand - I'd think that would blow out from the
surface.

Do you know where the sprinkler supply lines run? If so, walk them.


--

dadiOH
____________________________

dadiOH's dandies v3.06...
....a help file of info about MP3s, recording from
LP/cassette and tips & tricks on this and that.
Get it at http://mysite.verizon.net/xico

On Mon, 05 Nov 2007 09:26:19 -0800, Dave FL wrote:

On Nov 5, 12:11 pm, BobK207 wrote:

If you have a leak somewhere there has got to be a rather large soggy
spot.

Can't find any, it could be possible that since I live in Florida, the
soil below 1-2 feet is sandy, and could be soaking it up?

I've never had one on any of my irrigation systems, but there is/can
be what's called a _positive drain valve_ on the end of the zones.
Essentially, when the valve shuts off the remaining water drains to a
sand pit. The prevents freezing of the pipes.

If you have such a PDV valve and have a bad diaphragm / solenoid on
the zone valve, water would leak to ground.

(Not an expert..)


Are the sprinkler valves electric? Can they be turned off manually
(individually)?

Hunter sprinkler system with a Rain Bird controller

(I assume you cut off water to the sprinkler valve manifold) that the
"leak" is a faulty sprinkler valve not a line failure.

I have checked all of the valves (had to replace one solenoid) and
they are not filling up with water when running. I have only turned
off the rain bird control, not the incoming water at the backflow
preventer (Two knobs, 1 for interior & 1 for exterior)

Are some the heads in one of the zones wet constantly?

No, even with the main still on and RB turned off

Dave FL

--
Oren

"I wouldn't even be here if my support group hadn't beaten me up."

On Nov 5, 9:25 am, Dave FL wrote:
Yep, got a leak somewhere. Did the timing thing with the water meter
and found the three largest zones use most of the water.

My Problem: water bill came to $400.00 one month and $500.00 the next
month. Stopped using the sprinklers and dropped to $50 - $60/Mo.
My Guess: underground sprinkler leak
My Question: What is the easiest way to check the lines for a leak?
My Answer (up for review): Take out the sprinkler heads in each zone
and cap off the line, run the sprinkler water and see if meter turns.


No need to remove the sprinkler heads and cap off the risers. Just
close the adjusting screw on the top of the sprinkler popup.

Jerry

Jerry wrote:

No need to remove the sprinkler heads and cap off the risers. Just
close the adjusting screw on the top of the sprinkler popup.


Sounds MUCH easier

Dave FL

On Nov 5, 3:08 pm, Oren wrote:
I've never had one on any of my irrigation systems, but there is/can
be what's called a _positive drain valve_ on the end of the zones.
Essentially, when the valve shuts off the remaining water drains to a
sand pit. The prevents freezing of the pipes.

Sounds like a plausible explanation, but our freeze/thaw in Florida is
very minimal.

If you have such a PDV valve and have a bad diaphragm / solenoid on
the zone valve, water would leak to ground.

(Not an expert..)
(Nor am I)

Dave FL wrote:

Yep, got a leak somewhere. Did the timing thing with the water meter
and found the three largest zones use most of the water.

My Problem: water bill came to $400.00 one month and $500.00 the next
month. Stopped using the sprinklers and dropped to $50 - $60/Mo.
My Guess: underground sprinkler leak
My Question: What is the easiest way to check the lines for a leak?
My Answer (up for review): Take out the sprinkler heads in each zone
and cap off the line, run the sprinkler water and see if meter turns.

Need help to see if this is the best way to check the lines, or will a
divining rod be better?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Dave FL



I helped my hubby with lots of sprinkler repairs around our condo, and
since many were not protected we got a lot of cracked pipes until we got
everything in shape. We always has water washing out to the surface
when there was a leak. A broken head will also flood one spot and
should be obvious. Are you present when the sprinkler runs to check out
sprinkler operation and timing? That would be my first chore, along
with making sure the system isn't running more often than it sould.
Those are whopping water bills and shutting off the system doesn prove
much. If your bill is high when you water and low when you don't, it
certaining doesn't seem like a sign of a leak to me ... seems much more
logical the timing is wrong. You could have major leaks but not have
any difference in the amount of water used.

JimR wrote:

"Dave FL" wrote in message
oups.com...


Yep, got a leak somewhere. Did the timing thing with the water meter
and found the three largest zones use most of the water.

My Problem: water bill came to $400.00 one month and $500.00 the next
month. Stopped using the sprinklers and dropped to $50 - $60/Mo.
My Guess: underground sprinkler leak
My Question: What is the easiest way to check the lines for a leak?
My Answer (up for review): Take out the sprinkler heads in each zone
and cap off the line, run the sprinkler water and see if meter turns.

Need help to see if this is the best way to check the lines, or will a
divining rod be better?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Dave FL



I suppose in FL with our really sandy soil it may be possible to have a big
leak that never shows up on the surface. But before I did a lot of digging
and troubleshooting, I'd first do some calculations and make sure that there
was something wrong.



We have the same. Unless the pipes are exceedingly deep, and they
usually aren't in Florida, the water would follow the path of least
resistance .. to the surface.

In article ,
Norminn wrote:


We have the same. Unless the pipes are exceedingly deep, and they
usually aren't in Florida, the water would follow the path of least
resistance .. to the surface.





And if it did go somewhere else, like maybe along the pipe, I would
think that much water would have made for sink holes by now.

Dave FL wrote:
On Nov 5, 12:11 pm, BobK207 wrote:

If you have a leak somewhere there has got to be a rather large soggy
spot.

Can't find any, it could be possible that since I live in Florida, the
soil below 1-2 feet is sandy, and could be soaking it up?

Are the sprinkler valves electric? Can they be turned off manually
(individually)?

Hunter sprinkler system with a Rain Bird controller

(I assume you cut off water to the sprinkler valve manifold) that the
"leak" is a faulty sprinkler valve not a line failure.

I have checked all of the valves (had to replace one solenoid) and
they are not filling up with water when running. I have only turned
off the rain bird control, not the incoming water at the backflow
preventer (Two knobs, 1 for interior & 1 for exterior)

Are some the heads in one of the zones wet constantly?

No, even with the main still on and RB turned off

Dave FL

You seem to be saying that you turned of the controller, and the water
loss stopped. If that is so, then the system is water tight up to the
control valves, so your leak must be beyond the control valves.

I think if your timing was wrong for any zone, you would have noticed
that there was at least some water coming from the heads in that zone;
since you didn't say that, I assume your timing is OK.

So I suspect you have at least one leak in at least one of the lines
going from the control valves out into the zone. With the volume of
water you appear to be losing, it should be very apparent which line(s)
is leaking just by listening to them when the system is not irrigating.
If necessary, you could make something like a stethoscope from a piece
of tubing to help you identify the leaking line.

Once you have identified the leaking line, try pushing a dowel rod, or
the equivalent, into the soil, starting at the midpoint of the line.
Eventually you will find the area that is wet, and you start excavating
there. Actually, with that much water flow, you should almost be able
to hear the actual point of the leak with your homemade stethoscope,
but I don't know how much flow there is as you have just given a dollar
amount, and water prices vary around the country. Its not uncommon that
a nominal amount of water is very cheap, but once you exceed that
amount, the price per unit increases quite a bit.

A drain valve, assuming you even have them, should not be the problem,
as they are designed to close when there is water pressure, and open
when there is no pressure, to allow the lines to drain. Of course, your
whole underground system is probably plastic, so there could be a break
anywhere.

"Norminn" wrote in message
...
Dave FL wrote:

Yep, got a leak somewhere. Did the timing thing with the water meter
and found the three largest zones use most of the water.

My Problem: water bill came to $400.00 one month and $500.00 the next
month. Stopped using the sprinklers and dropped to $50 - $60/Mo.
My Guess: underground sprinkler leak
My Question: What is the easiest way to check the lines for a leak?
My Answer (up for review): Take out the sprinkler heads in each zone
and cap off the line, run the sprinkler water and see if meter turns.

Need help to see if this is the best way to check the lines, or will a
divining rod be better?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Dave FL


I helped my hubby with lots of sprinkler repairs around our condo, and since
many were not protected we got a lot of cracked pipes until we got everything
in shape. We always has water washing out to the surface when there was a
leak. A broken head will also flood one spot and should be obvious. Are you
present when the sprinkler runs to check out sprinkler operation and timing?
That would be my first chore, along with making sure the system isn't running
more often than it sould. Those are whopping water bills and shutting off the
system doesn prove much. If your bill is high when you water and low when you
don't, it certaining doesn't seem like a sign of a leak to me ... seems much
more logical the timing is wrong. You could have major leaks but not have any
difference in the amount of water used.

I had a timer once that I would set to run a cycle once a week. Occasionally,
though, it would get it into its head to run the cycle every day. Something like
this could cause huge bills also.

Bob

"Dave FL" wrote in message
ups.com...
Jerry wrote:

No need to remove the sprinkler heads and cap off the risers. Just
close the adjusting screw on the top of the sprinkler popup.


Sounds MUCH easier

Dave FL


It should be noted that this would work only if you have popup heads, such
as the RainBird 1800 series or similar. It will not work if you have impact
or gear-drive heads.

Jerry wrote:

No need to remove the sprinkler heads and cap off the risers. Just
close the adjusting screw on the top of the sprinkler popup.
snip

J.A. Michel wrote:
It should be noted that this would work only if you have popup heads, such
as the RainBird 1800 series or similar. It will not work if you have impact
or gear-drive heads.

Thanks, I have both. If I tighten the gear drive type the screw would
just go all the way through.

Dave FL

On Nov 5, 12:31 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Dave FL wrote:
Yep, got a leak somewhere. Did the timing thing with the water meter
and found the three largest zones use most of the water.

My Problem: water bill came to $400.00 one month and $500.00 the next
month. Stopped using the sprinklers and dropped to $50 - $60/Mo.
My Guess: underground sprinkler leak
My Question: What is the easiest way to check the lines for a leak?
My Answer (up for review): Take out the sprinkler heads in each zone
and cap off the line, run the sprinkler water and see if meter turns.

Need help to see if this is the best way to check the lines, or will a
divining rod be better?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Dave FL

Does your neighbor have a pool?

Is there a new bog in your neighborhood?

200,000 gallons of water over two months is a LOT of water.

200,000 gallons = 27,000 cu ft = 10'x45'x6' pool, or a little less than half
an Olympic swimming pool.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -



For two months of irrigation, that actually isn't such an incredible
amount of water. Who knows how big an area he's watering? If it's a
1/2 acre, 22,000 sq ft, the 27000 cubic ft of water over two months,
works out to 1.8 inchs of water a week. It's normally recommended to
put down 1" per week. Some people over do it, plus if it's during
the hottest months in Fl, then it may not be unusual at all. Now, if
he only has a small lot and is doing minimal watering, etc, then I
agree something is wrong.

There is a lot of info missing, besides area being watered, we don't
know if this is a sudden new problem, been gradually getting worse,
did watering amount change, etc.

On Wed, 07 Nov 2007 10:25:21 -0800, wrote:

On Nov 5, 12:31 pm, "HeyBub" wrote:
Dave FL wrote:
Yep, got a leak somewhere. Did the timing thing with the water meter
and found the three largest zones use most of the water.

My Problem: water bill came to $400.00 one month and $500.00 the next
month. Stopped using the sprinklers and dropped to $50 - $60/Mo.
My Guess: underground sprinkler leak
My Question: What is the easiest way to check the lines for a leak?
My Answer (up for review): Take out the sprinkler heads in each zone
and cap off the line, run the sprinkler water and see if meter turns.

Need help to see if this is the best way to check the lines, or will a
divining rod be better?
Any comments would be greatly appreciated.

Dave FL

Does your neighbor have a pool?

Is there a new bog in your neighborhood?

200,000 gallons of water over two months is a LOT of water.

200,000 gallons = 27,000 cu ft = 10'x45'x6' pool, or a little less than half
an Olympic swimming pool.- Hide quoted text -

- Show quoted text -



For two months of irrigation, that actually isn't such an incredible
amount of water. Who knows how big an area he's watering? If it's a
1/2 acre, 22,000 sq ft, the 27000 cubic ft of water over two months,
works out to 1.8 inchs of water a week. It's normally recommended to
put down 1" per week. Some people over do it, plus if it's during
the hottest months in Fl, then it may not be unusual at all. Now, if
he only has a small lot and is doing minimal watering, etc, then I
agree something is wrong.

There is a lot of info missing, besides area being watered, we don't
know if this is a sudden new problem, been gradually getting worse,
did watering amount change, etc.

do you have a water meter on the main incoming line? Make sure all
water lines are off, and watch the meter. Then turn on zones to see
if the water meter starts to move.
Here we have an actual meter on the water line, but is averaged for
three months, then an actual reading takes place, which can affect
your water bill for one month.

samurai