Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a
20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable
drums on the outer sides.

the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1 year
ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up it
starts to go by itself a little and stops.

Problem:
Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly
got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door will
kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any
position you set the door.

if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for
about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you
hit the button again ???

What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener

appreciate any more helpful ideas
r

On May 8, 1:17 pm, "robb" wrote:


What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener

appreciate any more helpful ideas
r

Check the safety photocells for :
- alignment?
- dirt?

Jerry

robb wrote:
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a
20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable
drums on the outer sides.

the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1 year
ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up it
starts to go by itself a little and stops.

Problem:
Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly
got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door will
kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any
position you set the door.

if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for
about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you
hit the button again ???

What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener

appreciate any more helpful ideas

I don't see any mention of anyone ever having lubricated the screw with
the special lubricant Genie sells. I lubed the screw-type Genie for the
guy next door and he thought I was a magician for making his door work
so much better (and quieter).

--
Postulate a God who's so smart He designed things we won't discover for the
next ten years, but who's so incredibly stupid He couldn't think up the
theory of evolution. Duhhhhhhhh. "Damn, Darwin, what a great idea!"

thanks for reply,
The GD company did lube it when they repaired it a year ago

1 torsion spring broke and the door racked and bent the tracks and bent
alot of hinges... the GD company replaced all the very bent stuff, 2 new
springs and replaced torsion tube, they lubed and adjusted everything,

yes, just as you said it was smooth and quiet for months.

thanks again and more ideas welcomed
robb

"clifto" wrote in message
...
robb wrote:
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and
a
20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and
cable
drums on the outer sides.

the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1
year
ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up
it
starts to go by itself a little and stops.

Problem:
Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this
slowly
got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door
will
kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any
position you set the door.

if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn
for
about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till
you
hit the button again ???

What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener

appreciate any more helpful ideas

I don't see any mention of anyone ever having lubricated the screw with
the special lubricant Genie sells. I lubed the screw-type Genie for the
guy next door and he thought I was a magician for making his door work
so much better (and quieter).

--
Postulate a God who's so smart He designed things we won't discover for
the
next ten years, but who's so incredibly stupid He couldn't think up the
theory of evolution. Duhhhhhhhh. "Damn, Darwin, what a great idea!"

wrote in message
oups.com...
On May 8, 1:17 pm, "robb" wrote:

What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener

appreciate any more helpful ideas
r

Check the safety photocells for :
- alignment?
- dirt?

Jerry

thanks for ideas,

i suppose i could **temporarily** short those somehow for the purpose of
isolating the problem ???

robb

On May 8, 3:17 pm, "robb" wrote:
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a
20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable
drums on the outer sides.

the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1 year
ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up it
starts to go by itself a little and stops.

Problem:
Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly
got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door will
kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any
position you set the door.

if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for
about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you
hit the button again ???

What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener


2 - Can't tell about binding by pulling/pushing on the door from the
bottom -- have to push/pull from the top where the closer arm is
attached (or at least near it) in order to tell what the opener is
"seeing" for resistance. Particularly in the close mode, pulling and
therefore, tension on the rollers/hinges/etc., is quite different than
pushing as the opener has to do.

One thing that can occur that is a little hard to tell on binding is
if there is a little bit of shift in the garage opening and the door
track gets a little too close to the frame at some point (typically
would be top/bottom depending on what moved). Happened here w/
similar symptoms and took me quite a long time to figure out the
"where" and "why" of the same tendency to want to reverse..

As for the run time w/o the door connected, it should run until the
traveler reaches the limit switches -- that's assuming they're
arranged like the chain drives I've worked on so the traveler hits
them even if not on the door. I suppose it would be possible to make
it such that it would run continuously, but I'd check that the why of
why it stops isn't the limit switches before assuming that's a
problem. If it stops and they're not hitting the limit switches, that
indicates there's another problem -- perhaps there's a gear bind
that's tripping the tension switch rather than the door itself being
the problem...

Just some random thoughts w/o having ever worked on a Genie or even
owned one and also w/o seeing you're problem(s) in action...

"robb" wrote in message
nk.net...
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a
20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and
cable
drums on the outer sides.

Sorry, i said (1 piece) door, it is a sectional with (5 sections) thus the
hinges....

alot of hinges

"robb" wrote in message
nk.net...
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a
20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and
cable
drums on the outer sides.

the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1 year
ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up
it
starts to go by itself a little and stops.

Problem:
Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly
got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door
will
kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any
position you set the door.

if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for
about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you
hit the button again ???

What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener

appreciate any more helpful ideas
r

My old genie screw type opener had a clutch. It sounds like the clutch is
slipping causing the motor to stop. There is a double nut that is spring
loaded and the nuts are located at the back of the screw shaft.

dpb wrote:
On May 8, 3:17 pm, "robb" wrote:
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old)
and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion
springs and cable drums on the outer sides.

the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about
1 year ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about
half way up it starts to go by itself a little and stops.

Problem:
Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this
slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up.
Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either
direction starting at any position you set the door.

if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will
turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep
going till you hit the button again ???

What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener


2 - Can't tell about binding by pulling/pushing on the door from the
bottom -- have to push/pull from the top where the closer arm is
attached (or at least near it) in order to tell what the opener is
"seeing" for resistance. Particularly in the close mode, pulling and
therefore, tension on the rollers/hinges/etc., is quite different than
pushing as the opener has to do.

One thing that can occur that is a little hard to tell on binding is
if there is a little bit of shift in the garage opening and the door
track gets a little too close to the frame at some point (typically
would be top/bottom depending on what moved). Happened here w/
similar symptoms and took me quite a long time to figure out the
"where" and "why" of the same tendency to want to reverse..

As for the run time w/o the door connected, it should run until the
traveler reaches the limit switches -- that's assuming they're
arranged like the chain drives I've worked on so the traveler hits
them even if not on the door. I suppose it would be possible to make
it such that it would run continuously, but I'd check that the why of
why it stops isn't the limit switches before assuming that's a
problem. If it stops and they're not hitting the limit switches, that
indicates there's another problem -- perhaps there's a gear bind
that's tripping the tension switch rather than the door itself being
the problem...

Just some random thoughts w/o having ever worked on a Genie or even
owned one and also w/o seeing you're problem(s) in action...

I think he said iti wouldn't go up/down with the door detached; that's an
opener mechanism issue unless the "eyes" are stopping it?

Pop`

robb wrote:
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old)
and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion
springs and cable drums on the outer sides.

the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1
year ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about
half way up it starts to go by itself a little and stops.

Problem:
Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this
slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up.
Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either
direction starting at any position you set the door.

Keep this in mind for the next para.


if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will
turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep
going till you hit the button again ???

It should, -unless- you have sensors telling the opener that there is
something in the way. If the sensors are blocked (maybe the door is
blocking them?) then maybe that would happen?
Some systems, not sure about Genie, will go UP but not DOWN in that
situation.

What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener

appreciate any more helpful ideas
r

It sounds more like the opener system, I think, than the door itself.
However, in testing a door, to be authentic, you have to do the
pulling/pushing from the top of the door where the opener connects to it,
not from the lift handles or bottom. Do NOT do that from a ladder; get help
and a pulley or manually turn the screw. Like I said, I don't think that's
the problem though.

With the door disconnected:

IFF you have sensors, and they remove easily, simply remove them and place
them somehow so they point at each other; that will tell them there is
nothing in the way.
Will the opener operate correctly now?

If not, something is fairly wrong. You'll have to either get help or dig
into the microswitches and adjustments, looking for something amiss. There
IS 120V ac in there, so BE CAREFUL.
BTW, most door openers will not operate with the cover off or dropped
down; there is a switch for that, too, that might have to be taped so it'll
think the cover is closed properly.

If it DOES operate, then you're down to adjustments. It's highly unlikely
to be the up/down stop settings, but more likely to be slipping belt,
stripped gear (though I think you'd have heard either of those happening) or
maybe it's the door after all.
In which case you have to get help, or figure out some way to lift/drop
the door from the same point the opener connects to it in order to duplicate
actual operating conditions. In my garage I have a handy beam and a pulley
on it to pull the door open. I then have someone hold the wire once it's
open, and I push it back down with a board. Not the best, but it works and
a proper installed door isn't that hard to move. They often start up and
down on their own, only needing the opener for the last half of their
travel, really.

Don't try to manhandle anything from a ladder, and beware 120V ac; keep
safety in mind at ALL times. If you're not positive what you're doing, get
help.

HTH
Pop`

On May 9, 7:51 am, "Pop`" wrote:

It should, -unless- you have sensors telling the opener that there is
something in the way. If the sensors are blocked (maybe the door is
blocking them?) then maybe that would happen?
Some systems, not sure about Genie, will go UP but not DOWN in that
situation.

Had a problem with my opener the first summer after it was installed,
sun go to the right angle that it would hit the receiver in the
evening, door would refuse to close unless somebody got out of the car
and stood in line to shade the receiver from the sun. Obviously not a
viable long term solution. Fixed that by reversing the positions of
the sender and receiver.

Jerry

On May 9, 9:37 am, "Pop`" wrote:
dpb wrote:
On May 8, 3:17 pm, "robb" wrote:
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old)
and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion
springs and cable drums on the outer sides.

the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about
1 year ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about
half way up it starts to go by itself a little and stops.

Problem:
Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this
slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up.
Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either
direction starting at any position you set the door.

if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will
turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep
going till you hit the button again ???

What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener

2 - Can't tell about binding by pulling/pushing on the door from the
bottom -- have to push/pull from the top where the closer arm is
attached (or at least near it) in order to tell what the opener is
"seeing" for resistance. Particularly in the close mode, pulling and
therefore, tension on the rollers/hinges/etc., is quite different than
pushing as the opener has to do.

One thing that can occur that is a little hard to tell on binding is
if there is a little bit of shift in the garage opening and the door
track gets a little too close to the frame at some point (typically
would be top/bottom depending on what moved). Happened here w/
similar symptoms and took me quite a long time to figure out the
"where" and "why" of the same tendency to want to reverse..

As for the run time w/o the door connected, it should run until the
traveler reaches the limit switches -- that's assuming they're
arranged like the chain drives I've worked on so the traveler hits
them even if not on the door. I suppose it would be possible to make
it such that it would run continuously, but I'd check that the why of
why it stops isn't the limit switches before assuming that's a
problem. If it stops and they're not hitting the limit switches, that
indicates there's another problem -- perhaps there's a gear bind
that's tripping the tension switch rather than the door itself being
the problem...

Just some random thoughts w/o having ever worked on a Genie or even
owned one and also w/o seeing you're problem(s) in action...

I think he said iti wouldn't go up/down with the door detached; that's an
opener mechanism issue unless the "eyes" are stopping it?

Actually, I think he said the opener runs for a few seconds and he
thinks it should run continuously w/o the door attached...as noted,
not sure how Genie openers have the limit switches arranged, but on
those I have/have had/worked on, the traveler will move until either a
rotating gear hits the limit switches or in some that's down only, the
up is where the traveler itself hits a switch. Either way, don't
think it should run continuously so was telling him to check for that.

If it doesn't, then I agree it's something in the mechanism more than
likely...

Pop`

robb wrote:
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a
20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable
drums on the outer sides.

Argh, those one piece wooden doors are a PITA. I had one on a rental
property that I own. It's a townhouse complex with 12 units. Over time,
most of the owners have had to remove the one piece door and install a
tracked door. Between the warpage of the door (that causes binding) and
the weight of the door, the openers didn't last all that long. If you
got 12 years on a 1/2 HP opener with a 20 foot one piece door then count
yourself very lucky. I kept my one piece wooden door longer than most
owners, but I was out there changing springs, and planing the door when
the wood swelled and binded.

What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener

appreciate any more helpful ideas

Replace the GDO with a 3/4 HP unit or replace the garage door with a
tracked door and get a new 1/2 HP unit.

With no door attached, the opener should run longer than 4-5 seconds,
depending on the settings of the limit switches.

"Pop`" wrote in message
news:rdl0i.3285$vX4.1164@trnddc05...
robb wrote:
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old)
and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion
springs and cable drums on the outer sides.

Problem:
Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this
slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up.
Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either
direction starting at any position you set the door.

Keep this in mind for the next para.


if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will
turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep
going till you hit the button again ???

It should, -unless- you have sensors telling the opener that there is
something in the way. If the sensors are blocked (maybe the door is
blocking them?) then maybe that would happen?
Some systems, not sure about Genie, will go UP but not DOWN in that
situation.

****
I cleaned the sensor lenses and a solid red light appears and then blinks
when beam is broken. i can push wiggle sensors a little bit in all
directions without breaking the beam so i am guessing they are aligned
pretty well. i can not comment on the wire signal / voltage / resistance or
whatever method is used to signal the GDO


What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener

appreciate any more helpful ideas
r

It sounds more like the opener system, I think, than the door itself.
However, in testing a door, to be authentic, you have to do the
pulling/pushing from the top of the door where the opener connects to it,
not from the lift handles or bottom. Do NOT do that from a ladder; get
help
and a pulley or manually turn the screw. Like I said, I don't think
that's
the problem though.

With the door disconnected:

IFF you have sensors, and they remove easily, simply remove them and place
them somehow so they point at each other; that will tell them there is
nothing in the way.
Will the opener operate correctly now?

If not, something is fairly wrong. You'll have to either get help or dig
into the microswitches and adjustments, looking for something amiss.
There
IS 120V ac in there, so BE CAREFUL.
BTW, most door openers will not operate with the cover off or dropped
down; there is a switch for that, too, that might have to be taped so
it'll
think the cover is closed properly.


*****
well your comment made me think that corroded connectin maybe possible
so i opened it up and used a dry wooden dowel to bump some wires and wiggle
things i tapped on the sequencer board heard a clik and the opener came to
life ???

I guess i bumped a relay on circuit board (27504R) ... any way the door was
dis-engaged and about half way up so stop switches were open and the GDO
motor just kept running continuously until i closed the stop switch but then
came back on when i released it.

i cycled power and it reverted to the old problem.

the board has some smoke/discoloration on it from a 1/2 watt resistor and
near a couple of 1/4 watts, some near a big diode and the base of some
ceramic disc capacitors looks a little smoked as well.


If it DOES operate, then you're down to adjustments. It's highly unlikely
to be the up/down stop settings, but more likely to be slipping belt,
stripped gear (though I think you'd have heard either of those happening)
or
maybe it's the door after all.
In which case you have to get help, or figure out some way to lift/drop
the door from the same point the opener connects to it in order to
duplicate
actual operating conditions. In my garage I have a handy beam and a
pulley
on it to pull the door open. I then have someone hold the wire once it's
open, and I push it back down with a board. Not the best, but it works
and
a proper installed door isn't that hard to move. They often start up and
down on their own, only needing the opener for the last half of their
travel, really.


*******
before i thought it was the sequencer board ....

I originally wondered if maybe the *NEW* springs settled after 1 year usage
and maybe the doors weight was now giving too much resistance to GDO
Is this possible ?

The door does not start going up by itself from closed. when you get door
about half way up then it kind of goes for 1/2 foot by itself and then stops
and needs to be pushed the rest of the way.

Then again when it is completely open the GDO will only move it a couple of
inches before giving shuting off


thanks for ideas and help
robb



Don't try to manhandle anything from a ladder, and beware 120V ac; keep
safety in mind at ALL times. If you're not positive what you're doing,
get
help.

HTH
Pop`

"SMS" wrote in message
...
robb wrote:
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and
a
20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and
cable
drums on the outer sides.

Argh, those one piece wooden doors are a PITA. I had one on a rental
property that I own. It's a townhouse complex with 12 units. Over time,
most of the owners have had to remove the one piece door and install a
tracked door. Between the warpage of the door (that causes binding) and
the weight of the door, the openers didn't last all that long. If you
got 12 years on a 1/2 HP opener with a 20 foot one piece door then count
yourself very lucky. I kept my one piece wooden door longer than most
owners, but I was out there changing springs, and planing the door when
the wood swelled and binded.

Yea, sorry i said wrong thing.... it is a sectional 5 piece with track i was
thinking something else when i said one piece.



What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener

appreciate any more helpful ideas

Replace the GDO with a 3/4 HP unit or replace the garage door with a
tracked door and get a new 1/2 HP unit.

With no door attached, the opener should run longer than 4-5 seconds,
depending on the settings of the limit switches.

thats what i thought i remembered it doing once when i forgot to engage door
to the GDO screw but i was not certain.

if this is expected behavior then there is definately something wrong in the
GDO as it runs maybe 2-3 seconds when door is disengaged and i hit the
remote button.

thanks for ideas and help
robb

"harlen" wrote in message
t...

"robb" wrote in message
nk.net...
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and
a
20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and
cable
drums on the outer sides.

the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1
year
ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up
it
starts to go by itself a little and stops.

Problem:
Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this
slowly
got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door
will
kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any
position you set the door.

if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn
for
about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till
you
hit the button again ???

What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener

appreciate any more helpful ideas
r

My old genie screw type opener had a clutch. It sounds like the clutch is
slipping causing the motor to stop. There is a double nut that is spring
loaded and the nuts are located at the back of the screw shaft.


I didn't know the technical name ... but i did try to adjust what you are
talking about

if i loosened it too much the door openeing problem worsened but would not
get any better if i tightened it.

the odd thing is it seem to make a difference in the resistance i had to
provide for the kick back to occur when it was closing for the couple of
inches that the GDO would move itbut it did not solve my problem

that is if i tried to hold / block door from closing with my hands when i
loosened the clutch the door would kick back immediately (no travel) with
little resistance, if i tightened it it would travel the 5 or so inches as
before while i tried to muscle it to stop.


thanks for ideas and help
robb