"Pop`" wrote in message
news:rdl0i.3285$vX4.1164@trnddc05...
robb wrote:
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old)
and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion
springs and cable drums on the outer sides.

Problem:
Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this
slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up.
Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either
direction starting at any position you set the door.

Keep this in mind for the next para.


if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will
turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep
going till you hit the button again ???

It should, -unless- you have sensors telling the opener that there is
something in the way. If the sensors are blocked (maybe the door is
blocking them?) then maybe that would happen?
Some systems, not sure about Genie, will go UP but not DOWN in that
situation.

****
I cleaned the sensor lenses and a solid red light appears and then blinks
when beam is broken. i can push wiggle sensors a little bit in all
directions without breaking the beam so i am guessing they are aligned
pretty well. i can not comment on the wire signal / voltage / resistance or
whatever method is used to signal the GDO


What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener

appreciate any more helpful ideas
r

It sounds more like the opener system, I think, than the door itself.
However, in testing a door, to be authentic, you have to do the
pulling/pushing from the top of the door where the opener connects to it,
not from the lift handles or bottom. Do NOT do that from a ladder; get
help
and a pulley or manually turn the screw. Like I said, I don't think
that's
the problem though.

With the door disconnected:

IFF you have sensors, and they remove easily, simply remove them and place
them somehow so they point at each other; that will tell them there is
nothing in the way.
Will the opener operate correctly now?

If not, something is fairly wrong. You'll have to either get help or dig
into the microswitches and adjustments, looking for something amiss.
There
IS 120V ac in there, so BE CAREFUL.
BTW, most door openers will not operate with the cover off or dropped
down; there is a switch for that, too, that might have to be taped so
it'll
think the cover is closed properly.


*****
well your comment made me think that corroded connectin maybe possible
so i opened it up and used a dry wooden dowel to bump some wires and wiggle
things i tapped on the sequencer board heard a clik and the opener came to
life ???

I guess i bumped a relay on circuit board (27504R) ... any way the door was
dis-engaged and about half way up so stop switches were open and the GDO
motor just kept running continuously until i closed the stop switch but then
came back on when i released it.

i cycled power and it reverted to the old problem.

the board has some smoke/discoloration on it from a 1/2 watt resistor and
near a couple of 1/4 watts, some near a big diode and the base of some
ceramic disc capacitors looks a little smoked as well.


If it DOES operate, then you're down to adjustments. It's highly unlikely
to be the up/down stop settings, but more likely to be slipping belt,
stripped gear (though I think you'd have heard either of those happening)
or
maybe it's the door after all.
In which case you have to get help, or figure out some way to lift/drop
the door from the same point the opener connects to it in order to
duplicate
actual operating conditions. In my garage I have a handy beam and a
pulley
on it to pull the door open. I then have someone hold the wire once it's
open, and I push it back down with a board. Not the best, but it works
and
a proper installed door isn't that hard to move. They often start up and
down on their own, only needing the opener for the last half of their
travel, really.


*******
before i thought it was the sequencer board ....

I originally wondered if maybe the *NEW* springs settled after 1 year usage
and maybe the doors weight was now giving too much resistance to GDO
Is this possible ?

The door does not start going up by itself from closed. when you get door
about half way up then it kind of goes for 1/2 foot by itself and then stops
and needs to be pushed the rest of the way.

Then again when it is completely open the GDO will only move it a couple of
inches before giving shuting off


thanks for ideas and help
robb



Don't try to manhandle anything from a ladder, and beware 120V ac; keep
safety in mind at ALL times. If you're not positive what you're doing,
get
help.

HTH
Pop`