ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable drums on the outer sides. the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1 year ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up it starts to go by itself a little and stops. Problem: Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any position you set the door. if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you hit the button again ??? What i tried: 1- checked and tightened all hinges, 2- move door up/down to check for binding. 3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener appreciate any more helpful ideas r |
ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
On May 8, 1:17 pm, "robb" wrote:
What i tried: 1- checked and tightened all hinges, 2- move door up/down to check for binding. 3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener appreciate any more helpful ideas r Check the safety photocells for : - alignment? - dirt? Jerry |
ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
robb wrote:
Equipment: I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable drums on the outer sides. the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1 year ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up it starts to go by itself a little and stops. Problem: Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any position you set the door. if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you hit the button again ??? What i tried: 1- checked and tightened all hinges, 2- move door up/down to check for binding. 3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener appreciate any more helpful ideas I don't see any mention of anyone ever having lubricated the screw with the special lubricant Genie sells. I lubed the screw-type Genie for the guy next door and he thought I was a magician for making his door work so much better (and quieter). -- Postulate a God who's so smart He designed things we won't discover for the next ten years, but who's so incredibly stupid He couldn't think up the theory of evolution. Duhhhhhhhh. "Damn, Darwin, what a great idea!" |
ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
thanks for reply,
The GD company did lube it when they repaired it a year ago 1 torsion spring broke and the door racked and bent the tracks and bent alot of hinges... the GD company replaced all the very bent stuff, 2 new springs and replaced torsion tube, they lubed and adjusted everything, yes, just as you said it was smooth and quiet for months. thanks again and more ideas welcomed robb "clifto" wrote in message ... robb wrote: Equipment: I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable drums on the outer sides. the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1 year ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up it starts to go by itself a little and stops. Problem: Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any position you set the door. if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you hit the button again ??? What i tried: 1- checked and tightened all hinges, 2- move door up/down to check for binding. 3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener appreciate any more helpful ideas I don't see any mention of anyone ever having lubricated the screw with the special lubricant Genie sells. I lubed the screw-type Genie for the guy next door and he thought I was a magician for making his door work so much better (and quieter). -- Postulate a God who's so smart He designed things we won't discover for the next ten years, but who's so incredibly stupid He couldn't think up the theory of evolution. Duhhhhhhhh. "Damn, Darwin, what a great idea!" |
ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
wrote in message
oups.com... On May 8, 1:17 pm, "robb" wrote: What i tried: 1- checked and tightened all hinges, 2- move door up/down to check for binding. 3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener appreciate any more helpful ideas r Check the safety photocells for : - alignment? - dirt? Jerry thanks for ideas, i suppose i could **temporarily** short those somehow for the purpose of isolating the problem ??? robb |
ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
On May 8, 3:17 pm, "robb" wrote:
Equipment: I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable drums on the outer sides. the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1 year ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up it starts to go by itself a little and stops. Problem: Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any position you set the door. if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you hit the button again ??? What i tried: 1- checked and tightened all hinges, 2- move door up/down to check for binding. 3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener 2 - Can't tell about binding by pulling/pushing on the door from the bottom -- have to push/pull from the top where the closer arm is attached (or at least near it) in order to tell what the opener is "seeing" for resistance. Particularly in the close mode, pulling and therefore, tension on the rollers/hinges/etc., is quite different than pushing as the opener has to do. One thing that can occur that is a little hard to tell on binding is if there is a little bit of shift in the garage opening and the door track gets a little too close to the frame at some point (typically would be top/bottom depending on what moved). Happened here w/ similar symptoms and took me quite a long time to figure out the "where" and "why" of the same tendency to want to reverse.. As for the run time w/o the door connected, it should run until the traveler reaches the limit switches -- that's assuming they're arranged like the chain drives I've worked on so the traveler hits them even if not on the door. I suppose it would be possible to make it such that it would run continuously, but I'd check that the why of why it stops isn't the limit switches before assuming that's a problem. If it stops and they're not hitting the limit switches, that indicates there's another problem -- perhaps there's a gear bind that's tripping the tension switch rather than the door itself being the problem... Just some random thoughts w/o having ever worked on a Genie or even owned one and also w/o seeing you're problem(s) in action... |
Revision: ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
"robb" wrote in message nk.net... Equipment: I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable drums on the outer sides. Sorry, i said (1 piece) door, it is a sectional with (5 sections) thus the hinges.... alot of hinges |
ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
"robb" wrote in message nk.net... Equipment: I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable drums on the outer sides. the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1 year ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up it starts to go by itself a little and stops. Problem: Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any position you set the door. if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you hit the button again ??? What i tried: 1- checked and tightened all hinges, 2- move door up/down to check for binding. 3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener appreciate any more helpful ideas r My old genie screw type opener had a clutch. It sounds like the clutch is slipping causing the motor to stop. There is a double nut that is spring loaded and the nuts are located at the back of the screw shaft. |
ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
dpb wrote:
On May 8, 3:17 pm, "robb" wrote: Equipment: I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable drums on the outer sides. the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1 year ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up it starts to go by itself a little and stops. Problem: Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any position you set the door. if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you hit the button again ??? What i tried: 1- checked and tightened all hinges, 2- move door up/down to check for binding. 3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener 2 - Can't tell about binding by pulling/pushing on the door from the bottom -- have to push/pull from the top where the closer arm is attached (or at least near it) in order to tell what the opener is "seeing" for resistance. Particularly in the close mode, pulling and therefore, tension on the rollers/hinges/etc., is quite different than pushing as the opener has to do. One thing that can occur that is a little hard to tell on binding is if there is a little bit of shift in the garage opening and the door track gets a little too close to the frame at some point (typically would be top/bottom depending on what moved). Happened here w/ similar symptoms and took me quite a long time to figure out the "where" and "why" of the same tendency to want to reverse.. As for the run time w/o the door connected, it should run until the traveler reaches the limit switches -- that's assuming they're arranged like the chain drives I've worked on so the traveler hits them even if not on the door. I suppose it would be possible to make it such that it would run continuously, but I'd check that the why of why it stops isn't the limit switches before assuming that's a problem. If it stops and they're not hitting the limit switches, that indicates there's another problem -- perhaps there's a gear bind that's tripping the tension switch rather than the door itself being the problem... Just some random thoughts w/o having ever worked on a Genie or even owned one and also w/o seeing you're problem(s) in action... I think he said iti wouldn't go up/down with the door detached; that's an opener mechanism issue unless the "eyes" are stopping it? Pop` |
ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
robb wrote:
Equipment: I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable drums on the outer sides. the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1 year ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up it starts to go by itself a little and stops. Problem: Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any position you set the door. Keep this in mind for the next para. if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you hit the button again ??? It should, -unless- you have sensors telling the opener that there is something in the way. If the sensors are blocked (maybe the door is blocking them?) then maybe that would happen? Some systems, not sure about Genie, will go UP but not DOWN in that situation. What i tried: 1- checked and tightened all hinges, 2- move door up/down to check for binding. 3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener appreciate any more helpful ideas r It sounds more like the opener system, I think, than the door itself. However, in testing a door, to be authentic, you have to do the pulling/pushing from the top of the door where the opener connects to it, not from the lift handles or bottom. Do NOT do that from a ladder; get help and a pulley or manually turn the screw. Like I said, I don't think that's the problem though. With the door disconnected: IFF you have sensors, and they remove easily, simply remove them and place them somehow so they point at each other; that will tell them there is nothing in the way. Will the opener operate correctly now? If not, something is fairly wrong. You'll have to either get help or dig into the microswitches and adjustments, looking for something amiss. There IS 120V ac in there, so BE CAREFUL. BTW, most door openers will not operate with the cover off or dropped down; there is a switch for that, too, that might have to be taped so it'll think the cover is closed properly. If it DOES operate, then you're down to adjustments. It's highly unlikely to be the up/down stop settings, but more likely to be slipping belt, stripped gear (though I think you'd have heard either of those happening) or maybe it's the door after all. In which case you have to get help, or figure out some way to lift/drop the door from the same point the opener connects to it in order to duplicate actual operating conditions. In my garage I have a handy beam and a pulley on it to pull the door open. I then have someone hold the wire once it's open, and I push it back down with a board. Not the best, but it works and a proper installed door isn't that hard to move. They often start up and down on their own, only needing the opener for the last half of their travel, really. Don't try to manhandle anything from a ladder, and beware 120V ac; keep safety in mind at ALL times. If you're not positive what you're doing, get help. HTH Pop` |
ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
On May 9, 7:51 am, "Pop`" wrote:
It should, -unless- you have sensors telling the opener that there is something in the way. If the sensors are blocked (maybe the door is blocking them?) then maybe that would happen? Some systems, not sure about Genie, will go UP but not DOWN in that situation. Had a problem with my opener the first summer after it was installed, sun go to the right angle that it would hit the receiver in the evening, door would refuse to close unless somebody got out of the car and stood in line to shade the receiver from the sun. Obviously not a viable long term solution. Fixed that by reversing the positions of the sender and receiver. Jerry |
ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
On May 9, 9:37 am, "Pop`" wrote:
dpb wrote: On May 8, 3:17 pm, "robb" wrote: Equipment: I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable drums on the outer sides. the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1 year ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up it starts to go by itself a little and stops. Problem: Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any position you set the door. if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you hit the button again ??? What i tried: 1- checked and tightened all hinges, 2- move door up/down to check for binding. 3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener 2 - Can't tell about binding by pulling/pushing on the door from the bottom -- have to push/pull from the top where the closer arm is attached (or at least near it) in order to tell what the opener is "seeing" for resistance. Particularly in the close mode, pulling and therefore, tension on the rollers/hinges/etc., is quite different than pushing as the opener has to do. One thing that can occur that is a little hard to tell on binding is if there is a little bit of shift in the garage opening and the door track gets a little too close to the frame at some point (typically would be top/bottom depending on what moved). Happened here w/ similar symptoms and took me quite a long time to figure out the "where" and "why" of the same tendency to want to reverse.. As for the run time w/o the door connected, it should run until the traveler reaches the limit switches -- that's assuming they're arranged like the chain drives I've worked on so the traveler hits them even if not on the door. I suppose it would be possible to make it such that it would run continuously, but I'd check that the why of why it stops isn't the limit switches before assuming that's a problem. If it stops and they're not hitting the limit switches, that indicates there's another problem -- perhaps there's a gear bind that's tripping the tension switch rather than the door itself being the problem... Just some random thoughts w/o having ever worked on a Genie or even owned one and also w/o seeing you're problem(s) in action... I think he said iti wouldn't go up/down with the door detached; that's an opener mechanism issue unless the "eyes" are stopping it? Actually, I think he said the opener runs for a few seconds and he thinks it should run continuously w/o the door attached...as noted, not sure how Genie openers have the limit switches arranged, but on those I have/have had/worked on, the traveler will move until either a rotating gear hits the limit switches or in some that's down only, the up is where the traveler itself hits a switch. Either way, don't think it should run continuously so was telling him to check for that. If it doesn't, then I agree it's something in the mechanism more than likely... Pop` |
ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
robb wrote:
Equipment: I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable drums on the outer sides. Argh, those one piece wooden doors are a PITA. I had one on a rental property that I own. It's a townhouse complex with 12 units. Over time, most of the owners have had to remove the one piece door and install a tracked door. Between the warpage of the door (that causes binding) and the weight of the door, the openers didn't last all that long. If you got 12 years on a 1/2 HP opener with a 20 foot one piece door then count yourself very lucky. I kept my one piece wooden door longer than most owners, but I was out there changing springs, and planing the door when the wood swelled and binded. What i tried: 1- checked and tightened all hinges, 2- move door up/down to check for binding. 3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener appreciate any more helpful ideas Replace the GDO with a 3/4 HP unit or replace the garage door with a tracked door and get a new 1/2 HP unit. With no door attached, the opener should run longer than 4-5 seconds, depending on the settings of the limit switches. |
ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
"Pop`" wrote in message news:rdl0i.3285$vX4.1164@trnddc05... robb wrote: Equipment: I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable drums on the outer sides. Problem: Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any position you set the door. Keep this in mind for the next para. if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you hit the button again ??? It should, -unless- you have sensors telling the opener that there is something in the way. If the sensors are blocked (maybe the door is blocking them?) then maybe that would happen? Some systems, not sure about Genie, will go UP but not DOWN in that situation. **** I cleaned the sensor lenses and a solid red light appears and then blinks when beam is broken. i can push wiggle sensors a little bit in all directions without breaking the beam so i am guessing they are aligned pretty well. i can not comment on the wire signal / voltage / resistance or whatever method is used to signal the GDO What i tried: 1- checked and tightened all hinges, 2- move door up/down to check for binding. 3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener appreciate any more helpful ideas r It sounds more like the opener system, I think, than the door itself. However, in testing a door, to be authentic, you have to do the pulling/pushing from the top of the door where the opener connects to it, not from the lift handles or bottom. Do NOT do that from a ladder; get help and a pulley or manually turn the screw. Like I said, I don't think that's the problem though. With the door disconnected: IFF you have sensors, and they remove easily, simply remove them and place them somehow so they point at each other; that will tell them there is nothing in the way. Will the opener operate correctly now? If not, something is fairly wrong. You'll have to either get help or dig into the microswitches and adjustments, looking for something amiss. There IS 120V ac in there, so BE CAREFUL. BTW, most door openers will not operate with the cover off or dropped down; there is a switch for that, too, that might have to be taped so it'll think the cover is closed properly. ***** well your comment made me think that corroded connectin maybe possible so i opened it up and used a dry wooden dowel to bump some wires and wiggle things i tapped on the sequencer board heard a clik and the opener came to life ??? I guess i bumped a relay on circuit board (27504R) ... any way the door was dis-engaged and about half way up so stop switches were open and the GDO motor just kept running continuously until i closed the stop switch but then came back on when i released it. i cycled power and it reverted to the old problem. the board has some smoke/discoloration on it from a 1/2 watt resistor and near a couple of 1/4 watts, some near a big diode and the base of some ceramic disc capacitors looks a little smoked as well. If it DOES operate, then you're down to adjustments. It's highly unlikely to be the up/down stop settings, but more likely to be slipping belt, stripped gear (though I think you'd have heard either of those happening) or maybe it's the door after all. In which case you have to get help, or figure out some way to lift/drop the door from the same point the opener connects to it in order to duplicate actual operating conditions. In my garage I have a handy beam and a pulley on it to pull the door open. I then have someone hold the wire once it's open, and I push it back down with a board. Not the best, but it works and a proper installed door isn't that hard to move. They often start up and down on their own, only needing the opener for the last half of their travel, really. ******* before i thought it was the sequencer board .... I originally wondered if maybe the *NEW* springs settled after 1 year usage and maybe the doors weight was now giving too much resistance to GDO Is this possible ? The door does not start going up by itself from closed. when you get door about half way up then it kind of goes for 1/2 foot by itself and then stops and needs to be pushed the rest of the way. Then again when it is completely open the GDO will only move it a couple of inches before giving shuting off thanks for ideas and help robb Don't try to manhandle anything from a ladder, and beware 120V ac; keep safety in mind at ALL times. If you're not positive what you're doing, get help. HTH Pop` |
ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
"SMS" wrote in message ... robb wrote: Equipment: I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable drums on the outer sides. Argh, those one piece wooden doors are a PITA. I had one on a rental property that I own. It's a townhouse complex with 12 units. Over time, most of the owners have had to remove the one piece door and install a tracked door. Between the warpage of the door (that causes binding) and the weight of the door, the openers didn't last all that long. If you got 12 years on a 1/2 HP opener with a 20 foot one piece door then count yourself very lucky. I kept my one piece wooden door longer than most owners, but I was out there changing springs, and planing the door when the wood swelled and binded. Yea, sorry i said wrong thing.... it is a sectional 5 piece with track i was thinking something else when i said one piece. What i tried: 1- checked and tightened all hinges, 2- move door up/down to check for binding. 3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener appreciate any more helpful ideas Replace the GDO with a 3/4 HP unit or replace the garage door with a tracked door and get a new 1/2 HP unit. With no door attached, the opener should run longer than 4-5 seconds, depending on the settings of the limit switches. thats what i thought i remembered it doing once when i forgot to engage door to the GDO screw but i was not certain. if this is expected behavior then there is definately something wrong in the GDO as it runs maybe 2-3 seconds when door is disengaged and i hit the remote button. thanks for ideas and help robb |
ideas to repair my genie garage door opener ?
"harlen" wrote in message t... "robb" wrote in message nk.net... Equipment: I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a 20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable drums on the outer sides. the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1 year ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up it starts to go by itself a little and stops. Problem: Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door will kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any position you set the door. if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you hit the button again ??? What i tried: 1- checked and tightened all hinges, 2- move door up/down to check for binding. 3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener appreciate any more helpful ideas r My old genie screw type opener had a clutch. It sounds like the clutch is slipping causing the motor to stop. There is a double nut that is spring loaded and the nuts are located at the back of the screw shaft. I didn't know the technical name ... but i did try to adjust what you are talking about if i loosened it too much the door openeing problem worsened but would not get any better if i tightened it. the odd thing is it seem to make a difference in the resistance i had to provide for the kick back to occur when it was closing for the couple of inches that the GDO would move itbut it did not solve my problem that is if i tried to hold / block door from closing with my hands when i loosened the clutch the door would kick back immediately (no travel) with little resistance, if i tightened it it would travel the 5 or so inches as before while i tried to muscle it to stop. thanks for ideas and help robb |
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