On May 8, 3:17 pm, "robb" wrote:
Equipment:
I have genie g5050 1/2 hp screw drive opener (about 12 years old) and a
20 ft (1 piece) wooden door with 2 center mounted torsion springs and cable
drums on the outer sides.

the GD repair company installed new springs and adjusted door about 1 year
ago, door looks straight/level and lifts fairly easily about half way up it
starts to go by itself a little and stops.

Problem:
Door started kicking back up 1/2 way down about 3 weeks ago. this slowly
got worse. Then door started to stall/stop about 1/2 way up. Now door will
kick back after couple inches travel in either direction starting at any
position you set the door.

if i disengage the door from opener and turn it on the screw will turn for
about 4-5 seconds then stop. i thought it used to just keep going till you
hit the button again ???

What i tried:
1- checked and tightened all hinges,
2- move door up/down to check for binding.
3- cleaned then adjusted the safety tension on the rear of opener


2 - Can't tell about binding by pulling/pushing on the door from the
bottom -- have to push/pull from the top where the closer arm is
attached (or at least near it) in order to tell what the opener is
"seeing" for resistance. Particularly in the close mode, pulling and
therefore, tension on the rollers/hinges/etc., is quite different than
pushing as the opener has to do.

One thing that can occur that is a little hard to tell on binding is
if there is a little bit of shift in the garage opening and the door
track gets a little too close to the frame at some point (typically
would be top/bottom depending on what moved). Happened here w/
similar symptoms and took me quite a long time to figure out the
"where" and "why" of the same tendency to want to reverse..

As for the run time w/o the door connected, it should run until the
traveler reaches the limit switches -- that's assuming they're
arranged like the chain drives I've worked on so the traveler hits
them even if not on the door. I suppose it would be possible to make
it such that it would run continuously, but I'd check that the why of
why it stops isn't the limit switches before assuming that's a
problem. If it stops and they're not hitting the limit switches, that
indicates there's another problem -- perhaps there's a gear bind
that's tripping the tension switch rather than the door itself being
the problem...

Just some random thoughts w/o having ever worked on a Genie or even
owned one and also w/o seeing you're problem(s) in action...